101 at Vertigo Moon Bar © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © MBK Sirocco Sky Bar Chao Phraya Express Phra Kaew (p171)

or or

and and soi (p182) (p168)

movie theatres theatres movie (p134) (p175) Wat Phra (p168) (p174) or with the filthy (p174) or with the filthy Chao Phraya Express Chao Phraya Chinatown Emporium Emporium (p108) MBK Moon Bar at Vertigo Sirocco Sky Bar Bangkok’s ultramodern teens in teens rich at the skyscraper lights atop a rooftop bar, skyscraper lights atop a rooftop bar, such as Wat Pho aboard the most famous , most famous temple, markets of (p108)

Escape the heat into VIP luxury at Spending a day shopping with the Thai Wandering through the crowded Toasting the stars and the twinkling Escaping the tour groups at maze-like Skipping between sightseeing spots Joining the adoring crowds at ’s

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Bangkok will cater to every indulgence, from all-night binges to shopping sprees, but it indulgence, from all-night binges to shopping sprees, to every Bangkok will cater But beside the 21st-century façade is a traditional village as devout and sacred as any village as devout and sacred façade is a traditional But beside the 21st-century

the city, or forage for your meals from the numerous and lauded food stalls. and lauded food stalls. the city, or forage for your meals from the numerous the monks on their alms route, hop aboard a long-tail boat into the canals that once fused hop the monks on their alms route, can also transport to watch you into the old-fashioned world of Siam. Rise with daybreak ways with attached spirit shrines that receive daily devotions. daily devotions. shrines that receive ways with attached spirit the attendant splendid . Even the modern shopping centres adhere to the old folk adhere centres the modern shopping Even temples. splendid the attendant remote corner of the country. This is the seat of Thai and the , with Thai is the seat of corner of the country. This remote cosmopolitan as any Western capital – guided by fashion, music and text messaging. messaging. music and text capital – guided by fashion, cosmopolitan as any Western well as a club scene that has been revived post-coup. Meanwhile the urban populous is as Meanwhile the urban populous post-coup. has been revived well as a club scene that The city is justly famous for debauchery, boasting at least four major red-light districts, as boasting at least four major red-light city is justly famous for debauchery, The backdrop of skyscraper canyons containing an untamed universe of diversions and excesses. and excesses. diversions of canyons containing an untamed universe backdrop of skyscraper and an infectious energy of commerce and restrained mayhem. The veneer is an ultramodern veneer mayhem. The of commerce and restrained energy and an infectious humidity are still the city’s signature ambassadors, but so are gleaming shopping centres gleaming shopping centres ambassadors, but so are still the city’s signature humidity are to be voted by numerous metro-watchers as a top-tier global city. The sprawl and tropical numerous metro-watchers by global city. The as a top-tier to be voted In recent years, Bangkok has broken years, capital as a messy third-world away from its old image In recent Bangkok BANGKOK and in an effort to addressand inan effort its legendary traf- bythe1997economic meltdown, tamed been green space. Thecity’sextravagant tastes have concrete thatgobbledupricepaddies and hulking skyscrapers andanendlessspillof into afullyfledged metropoliscrowded with exploded the 1980sand1990sthatBangkok brothels. Itwasn’tuntiltheboom years of rest andrelax inthecity’sgo-go bars and from theAmericanwarinVietnam cameto palaces. royal district(Dusit)styledafter European paved Krung)andanew road(ThCharoen receivedChulalongkorn), Bangkok itsfirst V(King IV(KingMongkut)andRama nologies filtered east. Duringthereigns of 19th centuryasEuropeanaestheticsandtech- flooding. ideally adapted toseasonal wall, wasfilledwithstiltandfloatinghouses emerging city,which wasencircledbyathick cious EmeraldBuddha(WatPhra Kaew). The (the GrandPalace) andatemple totheauspi- the swamplandandcradlingroyalcourt outof carved island district(KoRatanakosin) as aresurrected Ayuthaya,complete withan Phraya Chakriisreferred I. toasRama thepresent-dayestablished dynasty,andChao Thesuccessionof attack. hissonin1809 mese defensible locationinanticipationof aBur- across theriverthe capital in1782toamore general, ChaoPhraya Chakri,whomoved military byanotherimportant later deposed strategistmilitary thanapopularruler. He was . proved more of a tradefromthe a convenient locationforsea Mae NamChaoPhraya (ChaoPhraya River), inThonburi,onthewestern bankofhis base emerged asadecisive unifier. He established Taksincompeting forces,fromwhich General Ayuthaya in1767,thekingdomfractured into during atimeof turmoil.Followingthefallof wasahistoricalmiracle land today,Bangkok The centre of government andculture inThai- 102 HISTORY Bangkok wasaganglytownwhensoldiers Bangkok inthelateModernity cametothecapital Court officials envisionedthenewcapital „ „ FAST FACTS

AGO • Hsoy BANGKOK ••History Population February Best Time toVisit 7.5million November to planned homage tothegreat Europeancapi- up theriver. CrowningtheoldcityisDusit,a SanRd)arestrip of San(Khao ThKhao north andthebackpackerCharming Banglamphu mostpopulartouristdistrict. and Bangkok’s theformerroyal-palacedistrict Ratanakosin, neon. Chinatown’schaos issubduedbyKo hood of Chinatown,afrenzy of red, goldand neighbour-of isthedense thetrainstation Swarmingeithersideowned shophouses. holy temples, crowdedmarkets andfamily- adistrictofand therailwayisoldBangkok, at Hualamphongtrainstation. by themainnorth–southrailwayterminating propercanbedividedintwo Phraya, Bangkok Occupying theeastsideof Mae NamChao ORIENTATION Kong. regional centres, such asSingapore andHong tropolis holdsacommonfootingwithother internationalism. Todaythematuringme- investment, helpingmove Thailandtoward regional asastable Bangkok continue tosee Multinationalbusinesses poise. cosmopolitan tionals, infusingthecitywithacultured and return of manyforeign-educated Thaina- subway (Metro). rail system (Skytrain)andanunderground light- nowboastsanelevated fic, Bangkok resistance to efficiency, thereresistance toefficiency, are two main Hotel.the famous Oriental Truetothecity’s caying Victorian monuments, churches and (Western) quarters thatare littered withde- sois city’s mercantileshippinginterests. Itsnarrow paved roadthatwasonce theartery forthe first Krung;Bangkok’s the river isThCharoen to LumphiniPark. Intersecting ThSilomnear Silom, which cutsanincisionfromtheriver financialdistrictcentresBangkok’s alongTh at SoiCowboyandNanaEntertainment Plaza. corporate-expat cocoonsandthegirl-bar scene and haslimblike reaching tributaries into geographic citycentre totheGulfof Thailand, runsadeliberate from the course khumvit agers andshopping holiday tourists.ThSu- centres Thaiteen- that attracts fashion-savvy isauniverse of boxy shopping approximation of asci-fi megalopolis.Around Thewet. andtheeasy-going neighbourhoodtals, of East of –anear East therailwayisnewBangkok The portion between the serpentine river theserpentine The portionbetween the The turnof themillenniumhasseen (lanes)branch theold off through lonelyplanet.com faràng

BANGKOK n ǒ

103 thàn ( p138 ), Skytrain Wat Pho Chinatown (Th) means road, n ǒ have become so large become so large have ( p135 ) and wrap up ) and wrap up p135 ( Chatuchak Weekend Chatuchak Weekend sois thàn ( p108 ), quirky ), p108 ( eg Soi Sarasin/Th Sarasin and Soi eg Soi Sarasin/Th Sarasin and Soi is a small street or lane that runs off or lane is a small street abbreviated as Rat’damri abbreviated Mai Tat Phetburi become extension English transla- appearing as its (often tion: New Phetburi) soi soi, Rajadamri often and Ratchadamri are and the eastern Phetchaburi, Phetburi, Ram is sometimes Rama (I-VI) (I-VI) Phra The Thai word ( p163 ). Then go-go to the red-light district go-go district ). Then to the red-light p163 ( STREET ALIASES STREET ALIASES for transliter- is no standardisation there As Roman alphabet, Bang- into the ating Thai under many aliases. operate kok’s streets some common variants: are Here „ „ „

A ( p139 ). Then work off those rice calories at those rice calories at work off ). Then p139 ( street or avenue. Hence Ratchadamnoen Rd Hence or avenue. street (sometimes called Ratchadamnoen Ave) is is (sometimes called Ratchadamnoen Ave) always Th Ratchadamnoen in Thai. to as referred So, the address street. a larger 48/3-5 Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit, will be located ways off Th Sukhumvit on Soi 1. Alternative include 48/3-5 Th writing the same address of Sukhumvit Soi 1 or even Sukhum- just 48/3-5 vit 1. Some Bangkok to both as that they can be referred and Jim Thompson’s House Jim Thompson’s and the

Harmonique ( p109 ). Charter a long-tail boat to ride through ’s ). Charter to ride through Thonburi’s a long-tail boat p109 ( Thai massage Thai Fàng thon ( p174 ). Zip to and fro aboard the ultramodern p174 ( Wat Phra Kaew Wat Phra ( p159 ) or ( p110 ). ). p110 ( shopping Amulet Market ( p170 ). ). p170 ( Ton Pho RCA BANGKOK •• Orientation ( p171 ). ( p178 ) for intensive souvenir hunting. For a little R&R, take a river ferry to ferry For a little R&R, take a river hunting. souvenir ) for intensive p178 ( ( p147 ) to For dinner, head to

( p134 ) and its congested markets. On the weekend, take markets. the Skytrain to ) and its congested p134 ( Market island northa car-less of central Bangkok. ( p184 ). Glimpse old-style Bangkok with a trip to p184 ( for ready accustomed to the noise, pollution and traffic, you’re Now that you’re One Week One Week Three Days Days Three do – go Do as the Thais One Day One Day Make an early-morning visit to the dance clubs of BANGKOK IN… and dehydration. Try mixing and matching Bangkok is simple if you avoid rush hour Tackling these suggestions for a short fling or a long affair. the daylight hours with a traditional ( p108 ) and the crowded p108 ( in canals On the opposite (west) side of the river is the river (west) side of On the opposite

Building numbers are equally confounding; are Building numbers by developers. by developers. in which they were added to city plans, while they were in which arbitrarily assigned are the postslash numbers trances to buildings) constructed within that trances to buildings) constructed the order appear in numbers lot. The preslash geography. The number before the slash refers the slash refers The number before geography. fol- the numbers to the original lot number; buildings (or en- lowing the slash indicate cate lot disbursements rather than sequential lot disbursements cate the string of numbers divided by slashes and numbers the string of Th Sukhumvit)dashes (eg 48/3-5 Soi 1, indi- array of winding streets that never lead where that never lead where streets winding array of to propose. a map dares problem is compounded by the inconsistency by the inconsistency problem is compounded Romanised spellings as well as a mystifying of often unpronounceable to begin with, and the unpronounceable to begin with, often Bangkok Addresses Bangkok Addresses and unplanned as Bangkok Any city as large names are around. Street can be tough to get seems more akin to the provincial capitals seems akin to the provincial more than Bangkok’s high-rises. glittering years, before Bangkok was founded. before years, called by Thais, (Thonburi Bank), as it’s often Thonburi, which was Thailand’s capitalThonburi, which for 15 embassy districts: Th Withayu (Wireless Rd) (Wireless Th Withayu districts: embassy Sathon. and Th lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK children’s books. magazines, selections, Phrom Phong)Multilanguage pp122-3; I;SkytrainSiam) 9500, 3rdfl,ThPhraRam Kinokuniya usedbookstore. Multilingual Dasa BookCafé Bookshops INFORMATION surrounding suburbs. Z Atlas, investBangkok, in Bangkok Map bourhoods. Fornightcrawlers, Groovy Map’s inthreetaurants of noshingneigh- Bangkok’s which hasmappedmom-and-popres-series, check outIdealMap’ssightseeing, Map system, Roadway’s purchase mapping software. Tomaster thecity’sbus Bangkok navigator, suchhard-nosed asThinkNet’s guide butshouldbecomplimented byamore hoods andmarkets. Itisanentertaining visual and colourfulanecdotes aboutneighbour- places,belovedout-of-the-way restaurants, a schematic guidetothecity,withlistingsof imitated Thelong-runningandoft-around Bangkok. forfindingyourwayA mapisessential Maps Asoke/Th Asoke. Smallerthana 104 Th Sukhumvit, btwnSoi26&28;SkytrainPhromPhong) Th Sukhumvit,

drinking companion. sometimes spelt If travelling todistrictsoutsidecentral bothered to adjusttheappellation. on alittlevillagenamed BangMakok(PlaceofOlive Plums) andstubbornforeign tradersnever of Reincarnated Spirits’. RoyalDwellingand GrandPalace,of NineNobleGems,Highest Divine Shelter andLivingPlace Great Land Unconquerable,GrandandProminentRealm,RoyalDelightfulCapital CityFull game. The bombastictitle translates roughlyas‘Great CityofAngels,RepositoryDivine Gems, in1989anditsrecitationnotic poptunebyAsanee-Wasan bymemoryisalwaysawinning bar (City ofAngels)foreveryday usage. The 43syllableswere breathtaking transformedintoahyp- sanukamprasit. wit- amonpiman avatansathitsakkathattiya chathani buriromudomratchaniwetmahasathan popnopparatrat- ayuthayamahadilok amonratanakosinmahintara Krungthep mahanakhon OFANGELSCITY . Forvisitors whoconsidereatingtobe AGO • Ifrain BANGKOK ••Information But whydoestherest oftheworldcall it ‘Bangkok’?Turns outtheroyalcapitalwasfounded A real tongue twister, Bangkok’sofficialnamewas conveniently truncated toKrungThep % which covers theexpressways and bilingualmapwithaccompanying Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok

0 2664 8554; 3rd fl, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain 0 26648554;3rdfl,ThSukhumvit; Mp pp122-3; (Map ’ n’ Guide tràwk Bangkok &Vicinity Ato (Map (Map pp128-9 ; (alleyway). series makes series agood % 0 26612993;710/4 Bangkok Bus % Emporium soi Good Eats 0 2610 isa (Map (Map trok,

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Chulalongkorn 64;SkytrainSiam) .britishcouncil.or.th; I,254Soi SiamSquare, ThPhraRam Chitlom) Penthouse, Center,518/5ThPloenchit;Skytrain Maneeya pp128-9; Map Japan Foundation Ngam Duphli;subwayLumphini) .goethe.de; 18/1SoiGoethe, btwn ThSathonTai &Soi Goethe Institut ClubofThailand Correspondents Foreign Council British Alliance Française andothereducationalliaisons. classes kok organise filmfestivals, lectures, language Various international culture centres inBang- Cultural Centres Suksit Siam Bookstore Fah Khob Rim BuddhistBookshop Mahamakuta hospitals listed on hospitals opposite of. Incase apolice theEnglish-speaking an ambulance,contact If youhave amedicalemergency andneed Emergency booklets onculture andhistory. of taxitoThaPhanFah) Smallselection 511, 512,khlong DemocracyMonument;bus 3510; 78/1ThRatchadamnoen, 206) bus136, 159SoiAsoke; Tower,ThSukhumvit, Serm-mit .alliance-francaise.or.th; 29ThSathonTai; bus17,22,62) ful ofBuddhisttitlesinEnglish. 9am-3pmSat&Sun;air-conbus511)Hasahand- Mon-Fri, % Nakhon; Nakhon; of Mae ThoraniShrine of Mae progressive SantiPrachaDhammaInstitute.Locatedsouth SulakSivaraksaandthe 508) Politicalworksbysocialcritic 0 22811085;241ThPhraSumen; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat;bus507, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, ( % % (Map (Map pp128-9 ; (Map (Map p127 ; 0 2652 0580; www.fccthai.com; 0 26520580;www.fccthai.com; 0 22225698;113-115ThFuang (Map (Map p127 ; Mp pp122-3; (Map (Map (Map pp120-1 ; % % % 0 22870942;www % 0 26525480;www 0 26704200;www h lonelyplanet.com Mp pp120-1; (Map 0 22608560; 8.30am-5pm % (FCCT; (FCCT; 0 2622 BANGKOK 105 0 2245 0 2667 1000; Bangkok Bangkok (Map pp116- (Map % % is ideal for those those is ideal for magazine finally bought a (Map pp122-3 ; pp122-3 (Map 0 2632 0550; 9 Th Convent, off Th (Map pp116-17 ; pp116-17 (Map Bangkok

% Faràng Glossy monthly targeted at the city’s Going where the guidebooks don’t Going where No-nonsense English-language daily A monthly city primer with photo essays Free monthly for the young and hip. Free . French-language magazine with news and magazine with news French-language Bangkok Post. English-language daily with more style and flair English-language daily with more 0 2282 1100; 430 Th Phitsanulok; bus 16, 23, 99) (Map pp124-5 ; pp124-5 (Map % GUIDEBOOKS GUIDEBOOKS Lonely Planet’s spending a month or more in the capital in the capital or more spending a month city. Weekenders consider pick- should of Lonely Planet’s ing up a copy Encounter than the train Asoke, subway Sukhumvit) Royal patronage society subjects.with a public-access library on academic Th Sukhumvit, 33 Soi 3; Skytrain Ploenchit & Nana) 17 ; views. BNH Bumrungrad Hospital Phayathai Hospital 1 with Friday and weekend supplements covering city events. Medical Services Thanks to its high hospital standard care, of Bangkok a destination for is fast becoming afford- more for medical tourists shopping and surgery elective able dental checkups, (chemists) Pharmacists cosmetic procedures. throughout the city can diagnose and treat most minor ailments (Bangkok belly, sinus etc). The following hos- and skin infections services, 24-hour emergency pitals offer and below should be contacted if you the numbers medical at- need an ambulance or immediate daily clinics Most hospitalstention. also have staff.with English-speaking Bangkok Adventist (Mission) Hospital as well as streetside newsagents. Monthly Monthly newsagents. as well as streetside most bookstores. in available magazines are Bangkok 101 and entertainment.and reviews of sights, restaurants Bangkok Post BK Magazine Gavroche Metro: Magazine Nation Untamed Travel Media Media sold in 7-Eleven stores are Daily newspapers Silom; Skytrain Daeng) bilinguals. bilinguals. the old go anymore, 2620; 364/1 Th Si Ayuthaya; bus 503) bus ticket from Th Khao San to other exotic destinations, including bars in other Bangkok neighbourhoods. guests.

9.30am-5pm 9.30am-5pm 0 2281 5212; Th h % 0 2661 6470; Th 24hr) An English-speaking 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; Sky- % 0 2233 1731; 195 Th 0 2233 1731; 195 Th 9am-7.30pm; river Tha ferry h h 191 % h 1155; (www.bangkokrecorder.com) (www.bangkokrecorder.com) %

BANGKOK •• Information (Map pp116-17 ; pp116-17 (Map (www.khaosanroad.com) News, reviews % ( (www.mangosauce.com) Bangkok’s news (Map pp122-3 ; pp122-3 (Map (www.-hotels.com) Handy rundown on (www.asia-hotels.com) (www.2bangkok.com) News sleuth and (www.realthai.blogspot.com) Local Bangkok (www.realthai.blogspot.com) 199 (Map pp124-5 ; pp124-5 (Map

%

unit that investigates criminalunit that investigates activity tourists, involving It can also actincluding gem scams. liaison as a bilingual police. with the regular Sukhumvit, 131 Soi Asoke; Nightlife site following hot club nights, visiting DJs, music Nightlife and other vexing capital questions. trends Thewet) A few foreign-language resources, but the library’s resources, foreign-language Thewet) A few is in its astrological books and star charts,strength as well by the kingas recordings palm-leaf writings and sacred and ancient maps. Samsen; admission free; Samsen; admission free; Surawong; family membership 2800B; Tue-Sun; Skytrain Chong Nonsi) The oldest English- Tue-Sun; books language library in Thailand, with many children’s and titles on Thailand. and profiles of Bangkok’s famous tourist ghetto. hotels, their amenities and comments from former National Library British Club’s Neilson Hays Library & Rotunda Gallery terial, Bangkok’s libraries make a peaceful a peaceful Bangkok’sterial, libraries make escape from the heat and noise. Besides an abundance of reading ma- reading Besides of an abundance offering Real Thai foodie takes a bite out of the Big Mango. Libraries Mango Sauce Khao San Road Bangkok Recorder Asia-Hotels Internet Resources Internet Resources 2Bangkok made for the price of surfing the web. made for the price of chines so that an international call can be call can be so that an international chines depending on the concentration and afflu-depending on the concentration net-heads – Banglamphu is infinitely ence of than Sukhumvit or Silom, with rates cheaper shops internet Many as low as 30B per hour. adding Skype and headsets to their ma- are kok competing against each other to offer the other to offer kok competing against each connection. Rates and fastest vary cheapest Internet Access Internet Access cafés in Bang- internet of no shortage is There

Tourist police Fire Police/Emergency or safety issue, contact issue, for the city hotlines the or safety services: emergency following lonelyplanet.com of the weird for sexpats who need a breather. of the weird for sexpats who need a breather. history buff follows the city headlines from today and yesterday. BANGKOK tributed thecity,butitistricky throughout domestic andinternational callsare welldis- from outsidethecity.Publicphonesforboth into alltelephone numbers dialledlocallyor the cityalsooffer posterestante andparcelservices. valuables viaregular mail.Branchpostofficesthroughout withinthemainbuilding. Donotsendmoneyor packaging includeposterestante and Express ThaSiPhraya)Services h Th SathonTai; SkytrainSurasak) Bangkok’s andanEnglishversionof Long-distance callingservices pp128-9; national tourism organisation name(Tourism agencies incorporate elements of the official transport onacommission basis.Often, travel travellicensed agents thatbooktours and withthe free these services Don’t confuse chures andactivities. andadviceonsights distribute touristoffices maps,bro- Official Tourist Information Telephone ofThailand Organization pp124-5; ofThailand Communications Authority comfort. noiseless conversation. Trytheshoppingcentres for tohaveto findonethatisquietenough a citycode( Bangkok’s Telephone &Fax postoffice Main Post or larger. toable tomakeor taxi change onabill500B to break 1000Bbills;don’texpectavendor shopsorotherreputableto 7-Eleven places and withineyeshotof mosttourist areas. Go change deskswithintheSkytrainstations rency-exchange bureaus; there are alsoex- of thecity.Many Thaibanksalsohave cur- to 4pm,andATMs are commoninallareas Regular bankhours are inBangkok 10am Money Rutnin EyeHospital St LouisHospital Hospital Samitivej 106 Sukhumvit, 133Soi49) Sukhumvit, care. thishospitalforurgent eye Contact 80/1 Soi21/Asoke) phone-card services. services. phone-card faxtransmittaland service, offers HomeCountryDirect doortothemainpostoffice; ferry ThaSiPhraya)Next river 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat&Sun;ChaoPhraya 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, AGO • Dnes&Anyne BANGKOK ••Dangers&Annoyances % % Yellow Pages. 0 22511111;ThPloenchit;SkytrainChitlom) 0 25730099; (Map (Map pp124-5 ; ThCharoenKrung; (Map (Map pp124-5 ; (Map (Map pp122-3 ; (Map (Map pp122-3 ;

Th CharoenKrung; % 02) isincorporated % % % 0 26759300;215 0 23920011;Th (TOT; Map Map (TOT; 0 22580442; (CAT; Map h 24hr; Skytrain SalaDaeng) travel.com; 14thfl,WallStreet Tower,33/70ThSurawong; STA Travel Diethelm Travel are somelong-runningagencies: fromatravelpurchase agent. Thefollowing from fellow travellers before makingamajor Asklivered) forrecommendations services. issuing bogustickets of orpromises (unde- reliable, while others are fly-by-night scams you canbookbusandairtickets. Some are ispackedBangkok withtravel agencies where Travel Agencies police Tourist TAT mainoffice Division Bangkok Tourism tourists. confuse to purposefully Authority of Thailand;TAT) intotheirown to anundiscovered watorauthentic market, túk-túk ridegraciously arrange anaffordable Theywillthenwhen anattraction is‘closed’. person whoappears tocomeyouraid involves a well-dressed, professional-acting hunting grounds.Themosttypical scenario San, SiamSquareTh Khao –are favourite Wat Phra Kaew, JimThompson’sHouse, consumer protection orrecourse. tion withtheunderstanding thatyouhave no transac- you shouldenter monetary intoevery business practicesandcrime. But ingeneral fective indealingwithsomeof the‘unethical’ clueless tourists.Thetouristpolicecanbeef- famous friendlinessandarevolving doorof onThailand’s conartistscapitalise Practised outof than coerced yourmoneyinBangkok. You are more likely tobecharmed rather DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Travel Vieng are locatedthroughoutthe city. yellow informationboothsstaffed bystudentvolunteers officeprovidesmaps,brochures anddirections; tourism h 17/1ThPhraAthit; 7612-5; www.bangkoktourist.com; involving theft and crimes against tourists. againsttourists. andcrimes involving theft Tower, ThPetchaburi Tat Mai; bus 49) .viengtravel.com; Trang Hotel,99/8ThWisutKasat; bus 13,17,62) GwanBldg; .diethelm-travel.com; 140/1ThWithayu,Kian Tat Mai; groundfl,1600ThPetchaburi www.tourismthailand.org; country travelinformation. Bangkok’s mostheavilyBangkok’s touristed areas – 9am-7pm; river ferry ThaPhraAthit)City-specific 9am-7pm; river h (Map (Map pp124-5 ; 8.30am-4.30pm; Skytrain Asoke) Cityand 8.30am-4.30pm; SkytrainAsoke) (Map (Map pp120-1 ; Mp pp116-17; (Map (Map (Map pp116-17 ; (Map (Map p127 ; % h % Mp pp120-1; (Map % 0 22360262;www.sta % 24hr) Handlesmatters 0 22803537;www % 0 22559150;www 1155; Bangkok lonelyplanet.com 0 22505500/1672; % 0 2225 BANGKOK

107 kàthoey (‘Hello, where you go, hand- where (‘Hello, kàthoey See p741 for more information on coun- information for more p741 See Directly across the river is Thonburi, which Thonburi, which is across the river Directly Uncharacteristically aggressive robberies robberies aggressive Uncharacteristically taughtto are though Thai children Even as agents for commission-paying businesses. for commission-paying as agents served as the Thai capital after a brief tenure who might possibly have the 1000B fine that the 1000B fine that who might possibly have Thai might not be able to afford. an average trywide scams. SIGHTS Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi gdktiy^oFdlbomiN!To[=iu Ko Ratanakosin is the ancient royal district, housing Bangkok’s famous attractions. most These within walking distance of sights are early in the best visited other and are each to a boil. Ig- the day comes morning before you in this area anyone who approaches nore touts commissioned to steer tour- as most are guards or or tailor Even shops. ists to gem other official-looking people may be acting have been perpetrated by groups of been of by groups perpetrated have Su- typically around the lower (lady boys), drunk, and generally Lone, khumvit bar area. been approached reportedly men have foreign by a solo while a a diversion then creates some?’) who the victim’s wallet. partner swipes windows, foreigners out of toss their garbage following suit. This includes cig- should avoid police officer An underpaid butts, too. arette enforce the law than happy to will be more on a foreigner (however broadly interpreted) . The Hustler BANGKOK •• Sights than using the meter. Most in-town destinations are around 50B to 80B. are Most in-town destinations than using the meter. get paid by you thanks to a commission from whatever tailor or furniture store the driver the driver store tailor or furniture get paid by you thanks to a commission from whatever ‘happens’ to know about. register if the stranger says (a) that wherever you’re going is closed, (b) that he or she knows knows going is closed, (b) that he or she you’re stranger says (a) that wherever if the register one-day someone who is studying/working is a great sale in your home country, or (c) there licence, on jewellery, gems or silk. For a good laugh, you can always ask to see their TAT visibly rise. but does make their blood pressure which isn’t a sign of legitimacy people interested in chatting you up are usually interested in your wallet, not cultural ex- in your wallet, usually interested in chatting you up are people interested busy at but aren’t dressed professionally You should be doubly suspicious if they are change. job somewhere. a real times higher price is usually three Any quoted a flat price for your fare. taxi quotes A metered Do the maths: petrol and time will a sightseeing tour for 10B to 20B. offers driver A túk-túk should your mother’s advice and talk to said stranger, your suspicion-meter If you ignore this self-absorbed city, the only In to strangers. Remember your mother’s advice: don’t talk

„ „ „ „ PRELUDES TO A RIP-OFF A RIP-OFF TO PRELUDES visit? Commit these warnings to memory and join us Thailand Want to know the key to a great in our ongoing crusade to outsmart crafty scam artists. Bangkok’s The card-game scam has resurfaced after after scam has resurfaced The card-game Then there is the long-running and quite and quite is the long-running Then there More obvious are the túk-túk drivers who who túk-túk drivers the obvious are More fun of it, and the rest is well documented in is well documented the rest it, and fun of movie the classic game usually starts off as an innocent way to pass the time and then money is added for the selves in the league of sharks. After you’ve you’ve sharks. After in the league of selves home, the card been to a Thai person’s invited made average card players consider them- card players made average you will discover your unexpected windfall your unexpected you will discover of pieces worthless comprises a collection of glass. rise of it is the recent a brief hiatus. Perhaps that has online gambling and celebrity poker your home country. It is only after you cough only after your home country. It is that the gems wholesale price of up the quoted infamous gem scam, in which you act as an scam, in which infamous gem in gems for sellingagent of bulk quantities engage in this practice. in this practice. engage the market for a tailor, avoid the hidden com- the hidden for a tailor, avoid the market businessesmissions by patronising who don’t shop, even though you’ve requested an en- requested shop, even though you’ve in if you’re destination. Even different tirely are out to make a commission by dragging a commission out to make are tailor or jewellery you to a local silkstore, to which you’ve been referred by a helpful by a helpful been referred you’ve to which stranger. for yourself. And don’t engage in any sort sort in any for yourself.And don’t engage or jewellery – tailors purchase – gems, of that a popular attraction is closed; check attraction is closed;that a popular check which is usually a guise is which for taking and you Don’t ‘ride’. proverbial for the your wallet you who tells believe on the street anyone lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK guarded bypairs of sion of theIndianepic garments atthebeginning of each season. solemn ceremony, changes thekinghimself the (hot,coolandrainy).In a one foreach season utive figure isalwayscloaked inroyalrobes, visible amidthegildeddecorations.The dimin- barely altar, traction. Itsitsatopanelevated the style). kosin (orold-Bangkok royal orsacred, canbeclassifiedasRatana- Mostofexperimentation. thearchitecture, 200 years of royalhistoryandarchitectural pass more than 100buildingsthatrepresent nationalists. The94.5-hectare groundsencom- Buddhistsand grimage destinationfordevout first yearof rule,andistodayapil- Bangkok monarch, theGrandPalace. ing thetemple istheformerresidence of the to thevenerable EmeraldBuddha. Adjoin- Tha Chang) admission 250B; Buddha, Also knownastheTemple of theEmerald ;yfritcdh;!rit[i}}skik(;y' WAT PHRAKAEW &GRANDPALACE inKoRatanakosin. to those temples here thatare historicalcomplements cross-river ferries, andthere are and museums the river fromBangkok’s iseasilyaccessed the fallof Ayuthaya. Todaythearea along 108 Extensive Housed in a fantastically decorated inafantastically Housed in1782,the This groundwasconsecrated with upkeep. you visittemples; yourcontributionshelp feet towardsarevered figure. the highlyoffensive poseofpointingyour image, tuckyourfeet behindyoutoavoid aries). WhensittinginfrontofaBuddha the main Shoes shouldberemoved before entering loan attheentryarea forWatPhra Kaew. Sarongs andbaggypantsare availableon son Thais are exempt fromthislatter rule). shoes(forsomerea- andclose-toed skirts withsleeves, longpantsorWear shirts should dress andbehave appropriately. Temples are sacred placesandvisitors DRESS FORTHEOCCASION AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights Remember toleave adonationwhen is anarchitectural wonder andhome Wat Phra Kaew Wat Phra bòt h murals ofthe Ramakian 8.30am-3.30pm; bus 508, 512, river ferry 8.30am-3.30pm; bus508,512,river (chapel) or isthetemple’s primaryat-

Mp p130; (Map wíhaan (mythical giants), (mythical giants), % (theThai ver- ) linethe in- (sanctu- 0 22241833; bòt and and funerary hall. venue forroyalaudiencesand later asa royal andtraditionalThaiarchitecture.Renaissance the exterior shows apeculiarblend of Italian in 1882byBritish architects usingThailabour, Mahaprasat Chakri todayforcoronationceremonies.used Hall Amarindra attempted coup.Thebuilding tothewestis itasheadquartersSan Chitpatimaused foran iting foreign InApril1981General dignitaries. vis- tohouse VI,isoccasionallyused for Rama asaresidenceinspired structure thatserved Reigns, versionfictionalised istoldinthetrilogy are relatively silenttothemodernvisitor. A the wallsof thisonce-cloistered community The intrigueandritualsthatoccurred within fortheirroyalbombast. worth aswiftperusal city). Theexteriors of thefourbuildingsare is ChitladaPalace inthenorthernpartof the Coronation Day(theking’scurrent residence ceremonialonly forcertain occasions,such as haratchawong) are bytheking nowputtouse buildings of the and moving aroundthecompound. clockwise epic initsentirety, beginningatthenorthgate continually restored, themuralsillustrate the during thereign I(1782–1809)and of Rama side wallsof thecompound.Originallypainted WatPho The modest heroof holytemples, Bangkok’s ;yfFrTbN Z;yfritg(^=roX WAT PHO Dusit ThroneHall. cludes VimanmekTeak Mansion andAbhisek cludes entranceto sin-style by combat-trainedfemale sentries. in theinnerpalacearea, which wasguarded theirhuge haremskings traditionallyhoused enshrine theashesof est of the tion of theHindu ornamented spire representing aThaiadapta- each wingistoppedbya chádaa This isastyleoften referred toas ashes of Chakrikings;theflanking Except forananteroom hereExcept andthere, the Last, fromeasttowest,istheRatanako- Last, The admissioncharge forthecomplexin- The largest of thepalacebuildingsis Hall Borombhiman byKukritPramoj. (Westerner in a Thai crown) because (Westerner inaThaicrown)because

(Map (Map p130 ; WatPhraChetuphon; Dusit Hall mondòp, , originallyahallof justicebut Grand Palace , theGrandPalace Hall. Built , which initially served asa , which initiallyserved inthecentre, the contains Dusit Park (eastern end),aFrench- Chakri princes.Thai mondòp (Phra BoromMa- (shrine).Thetall- ( p132 ), which in- lonelyplanet.com % – a heavily –aheavily faràng sài 0 22219911; mondòp Four

BANGKOK 109 9am-5pm; (which (which h Wat Mahat- (Buddhist phi- dhamma 0 2221 5999; 3 Th Maharat; % . But prospective students of Buddhist of students . But prospective (Map p130 ;

Founded in the 1700s, Wat Mahathat is the Founded in the 1700s, Wat Mahathat The rambling grounds of Wat Pho cover cover Wat Pho grounds of The rambling different aspects of aspects of different MARKET AMULET ^]kfritg%iÆv';yf}skTk^= Wat Just outside the theological solitude of of vibrant application is a more Mahathat through the whitewashed gates of of through gates the whitewashed hat bus 47, 53, 503, 508, 512, river or Tha ferry Maharat) held three ting and walking meditation are times daily. monastic for the Mahanikai national centre Maha renowned for the sect and headquarters Bang- one of Rajavidyalaya, Religious kok’s two Buddhist universities. foreigners to visiting is extended scholarship in English on with twice-monthly lectures temple area and air-con rooms within the the rooms within and air-con area temple ). p139 ( temple the facility outside training and yoga inscriptions showing Nearby stone in the temple remain still massage techniques grounds, servingtheir original purpose as visual aids. oc- tourist sites with the major eight hectares, Th Chetuphon and side of cupying the northern the southern side.the monastic facilities on MAHATHAT WAT ;yf}skTk^= Sightseeing to wander the reason is not losophy). Stop by Section topics 5 for lecture and room assignment. meditation will find a warm reception from meditation will find a warm reception the temple’s of the English-speaking director International Buddhist Meditation Centre in Section classesis located in sit- 5), where 8am-5pm; bus 508, 512, bus 508, 512, 8am-5pm; (characteristics of of (characteristics h on display in the other on display in the other features a host of super- of a host features , 46m long and 15m high,, 46m long and láksànà BANGKOK •• Sights are worth a nod. Particularly worth a nod. Particularly are an . ǎ Buddha images bòt reclining Buddha wíh The Emerald Buddha achieved another promotion in the cult of Buddha images some 200 years in the cult of Buddha images some 200 years another promotion Emerald Buddha achieved The later when Thailand’s King Taksin waged war against , retrieving the image and mounting the image and mounting war against Laos, retrieving waged King when Thailand’s Taksin later to Bangkok and General Chakri took the crown, moved when the capital Later, it in Thonburi. with one of the country’s most magnificent monuments, the Emerald Buddha was honoured Kaew. Wat Phra The Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaew Morakot) holds a prominent position in Thai Buddhism in spite Kaew Buddhism in spite Emerald Buddha (Phra in Thai Morakot) holds a prominent position The (probably jasper quartz rather than jade material or nephrite 75cm) and original (a mere of its size emerald). In fact, the Emerald Buddha was just another ordinary image, with no illustrious pedigree, Chiang Rai.until its monumental ‘coming out’ in 15th-century During a fall, the image revealed (a common practice to safeguard with plaster covered which had been its luminescent interior, throughout successful stints in various temples a few valuable Buddhas from being stolen). After northern invaders in the mid-16th century. the image was stolen by Laotian Thailand, TRAVELS OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA BUDDHA THE EMERALD OF TRAVELS Wat Pho is also the national headquarters headquarters is also the national Wat Pho The Almost too big for its shelter, the tremen- the big for its shelter, Almost too A small collection of tiled com- A small collection of famous massage school has two massage massage has two famous massage school within the located without air-con pavilions tional Thai medicine, including Thai massage, by Rama legislated a mandate III when the The extinction. of tradition was in danger for the teaching and preservationfor the teaching tradi- of with distinct corners, a signature of Ratana- of signature a with distinct corners, kosin style. smaller stupas. Note the square bell shape bell shape the square smaller stupas. Note memorates the first three of the Chakri kings of three the first memorates 91 (Rama are III has two stupas) and there in the base of the presiding Buddha image Buddha image the presiding in the base of in the no less than 394 gilded Buddha images, many many images, no less than 394 gilded Buddha Ayuthaya or Sukhothai display which fea- of Rama interred of I are The remains tures. extending between the four chapels feature feature betweenextending the four chapels beautiful are the Phra Chinnarat and Phra Chinnarat and Phra the Phra beautiful are Buddhas, both from Sukhothai,Chinnachai The galleries in the west and south chapels. four and finished in leaf. Mother-of-pearl in gold leaf. Mother-of-pearl and finished displaying 108 dif-inlay ornaments the feet, auspicious ferent vana (ie the Buddha’s death). The figure is death). The figure vana (ie the Buddha’s core around a brick plaster modelled out of a Buddha). dous Buddha into nir- the of the illustrates and the country’s earliest centre for public for earliest centre and the country’s education. latives: the largest reclining Buddha, the larg- reclining largest the latives: in Thailand images Buddha of est collection Th Sanamchai; admission 50B; admission Th Sanamchai; Tha Tien) Express Chao Phraya lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK ferry fromThaTien) admission20B; Thonburi; Amarin, warren abandon theworldlylife. The ashesof Rama palace walls, anexperience thatledhimto birth, oldage, sickness anddeath outsidehis Prince Siddhartha encountering examplesof particularly impressive isonethatdepicts The muralsdate fromthereign V; of Rama IIhimself. to have designedbyRama been the of old porcelainasballast. tonnesofcalling attheportof used Bangkok ships period,whenChinese early Ratanakosin lain, acommontemple inthe ornamentation made frombroken, porce- multihuedChinese arefrom adistance theornate floralmosaics wasaninferior Notapparenttially used base. theporousmudini- because was necessary III.Rebuilding and later completed byRama the first II halfof the19thcenturybyRama during The tower’sconstructionwasstarted tic: the82m-high Arun received itsmostprominentcharacteris- Buddha were moved thatWat toBangkok Ayuthaya. of theliteral andsymbolicfoundingof anew Indian godof dawn(Aruna)andinhonour Buddha. Thetemple wasrenamed after the theEmeraldpalace andatemple tohouse known asWatJaeng) aroyal andestablished here onthesite of alocalshrine(formerly King Taksin ceremoniously clinched control kok’s earlyhistory.After thefallof Ayuthaya, with WatPhra Kaew andWatPho) of Bang- the thirdpointinholytriumvirate (along Striking ;yfvi=IO WAT ARUN and sinusinfections. aromaticherbalsoupsthatwardoff colds sell vendorsmassage shops.Inthecoolseason, family-run herbal-medicineandtraditional- are overflowing handsome shophouses with ent powers of theimages. Alsoalongthisstrip common customers wellversed inthediffer- people indangerous professions are themost bycollectors. driverstinised Monks,taxi and wide varietyof carefully smalltalismans scru- h khrêuang Thailand’s diverse spirituality.A 110 Also worthaninspectionistheinterior It wasn’t until the capital andtheEmerald It wasn’tuntilthecapital 9am-5pm) AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights bòt sois

Wat Arun (holy amulet market; Map Map (holy amuletmarket; p130 ; ThMaharat; . The main Buddha image is said . ThemainBuddhaimage issaid claimssidewalkspaceandrabbit- nearThaPhra Chan,displayinga commands a martial pose as commandsamartialpose

Mp p130; (Map (Khmer-style tower). h % 9am-5pm; cross-river 9am-5pm; cross-river 0 28911149;ThArun tàlàat phrá are buried intheground. Two metres of length thepillar’s4.7mtotal mark thefoundingof thenew royalcapital. considered choice to anespeciallytalismanic inbattle.to defeat Thusitwas theBurmese the felling of thetree empowered theThais that Buddhist-animist rituals,itisbelieved ofof aseries Ayuthayaduring1767.Through sacking followingtheBurmese down ineffigy (tree of victory;laburnum from terpart, which wascarved towns. between ing pointfordistances marker of thetown’scrossroadsandmeasur- asa rat) andalsolendsapracticalpurpose city’s guardianspirit(Phra SayamThewathi- an animistictradition,thepillarembodies inawhite Part cruciformsanctuary. housed of the structure shimmers withgoldleafandis ing of cityin1782.Today thenewcapital pillar erected Iduringthefound- byRama ferry ThaChang) river admissionfree; Meuang; LakMeuang asthespiritualkeystone of Bangkok, Serving Lk]s]ydg}nv' LAK MEUANG PILLAR) (CITY Buddha image. II are interred of inthebase thepresiding the most recent SanamLuang cremations over funeral rites for hismother. that, Before here inMarch 1996,when thekingpresided most recent ceremonial cremation tookplace The ficially initiates therice-growing season. inwhich Ceremony, thekingof- Ploughing site forroyalcremations andfortheannual attributes are expressed duringitsdutiesasa other attractions.Thepark’smore appealing as adustyimpedimenttoWatPhra Kaew and Chang) admission free; Nai,ThSomdetPhraPin Klao; Phra Lan,ThRatchadamnoen (Map p130 ; RoyalField; bordered byThNaPhraThat, The royaldistrict’sgreen area is lok}s];' granting aworshipper’s wish. ments asthankstotheguardianspiritfor costumed dancers measure outsubtlemove- sioned dance)maybeinprogress. Brilliantly gate thesource asa the whineof traditionalinstruments, investi- If you happen to wander through andhear If youhappentowanderthrough The pillarwasonceof apair. coun- Itstaller , which introduces itself tomostvisitors, which introducesitself

(Map (Map p130 Nai&ThLak ; cnrThRatchadamnoen h 6am-8pm; bus 30, 32, 47, 53, river ferry Tha 6am-8pm; bus30,32,47,53,river is aphallus-shaped wooden h lákhon kâe bon 8.30am-5.30pm; bus506,507,

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h museum the king’s personal barge, is barge, the king’s personal belies the country’s impressive belies the country’s impressive National Gallery 9am-5pm; tourist boat from Tha Phra shuttle (mythical sea serpent) and h naga . At the time of writing, the museum was . At the time of The easiest way to get to the museumThe easiest way to get is by When not in use, the barges are on display are When not in use, the barges Suphannahong, NATIONAL GALLERY GALLERY NATIONAL svLb]xcsj'(k^b The humble admission 30B; 2639; Th Chao Fa; Tha Phra Athit) ferry the walls of fine arts. Decorating tradition of this early Ratanakosin-era works building are such as such (’s bird mount). Historic photos help theenvision the grand processions in which a rowing would require the barges of largest bearers, 50 men, plus seven umbrella of crew as well as a two helmsmen and two navigators, and chanter. flagman, rhythm-keeper Athit (20B). the tourist boat from Tha Phra You can also walk from the Bangkok Noi train to Tha Rot Fai), stationferrying (accessible by but the walk is tricky and unpleasant and you’ll guides who will charge uninvited encounter for their service. The museum is also a stop on long-tail through boat trips Thonburi’s canals. ascension to the throne. ascension to the throne. at this Thonburi 0004; , Thonburi; admission 30B, photo permit 100B; Athit) work on closedtemporarily for restoration with the Chao Phraya the elderly boats. Check for the cur- Athit desk at Tha Phra Express situation. rent from a the boats. Made the most important of dugout in timber, it’s the largest single piece of the world. The name means ‘Golden Swan’, and swan head has been carveda huge into the bow. carved bows that are into feature Lesser barges mythological shapes other Hindu-Buddhist Wang Na. Rama Na. Wang it into a museum V turned in maps free office provides The ticketing 1884. the grounds. of MUSEUM NATIONAL BARGES ROYAL ginvritmÎ Ìoy' fantastically slender, or- are barges The royal proces- used vessels in ceremonial namented back dates The tradition river. sions along the (for most travel to the Ayuthaya era, when and royalty) was by boat. Today commoners is an infrequent procession the royal barge in 2006 performed most recently occurrence, the king’s of the 60th anniversary in honour of is has has 0 2224 % 9am-3.30pm . h history wing Buddhaisawan (Phut- (Map p130 ;

, the earth goddess , the earth goddess 9.30am Wed; in English, German & h

, which cover every possible cover , which provides a welcome relief relief a welcome provides ( The Magic Ring The Magic BANGKOK •• Sights Mae Thorani tours National Museum .

A of A statue of

Most of the museum buildings were built in the museum buildings were Most of Perhaps part of the charm, though, is wan- the charm, part of Perhaps The recently renovated renovated The recently In addition to the cluttered art and arte- In addition to the cluttered 1782 as the palace of Rama1782 as the palace of I’s viceroy, Prince handicraft: traditional musical instruments, and weaponry. regalia central exhibit hall woodcarving,ceramics, clothing and textiles, and handicrafts. For the free-form culturalist, and handicrafts. For the free-form peruse collections in the the scatterbrained dering through a veritable attic of attic of dering through a veritable V section; and the screening of King Praja- of V section; and the screening dhipok’s movie inscribed stone pillar, the oldest record of of inscribed stone pillar, the oldest record throne; the Rama Thai writing; King Taksin’s hokey dioramas, there are some real treas- some real are there dioramas, hokey look for King Ramakamhaeng’s here: ures ogy of prehistoric, Sukhothai-, Ayuthaya- and prehistoric, ogy of the Despite Bangkok-era events and figures. made impressive bounds towards mainstream bounds towards mainstream made impressive curatorial aesthetics with a succinct chronol- revered Buddha images, Phra Phut Sihing. Sihing. Phut Phra images, Buddha revered Legend came from , says the image it to 13th-century but art historians attribute Sukhothai. chapel (built in 1795) are some well-preserved are (built in 1795) chapel the country’s most original murals and one of thaisawan) Chapel Inside the from the curatorial hotchpotch. facts building, the restored facts building, the restored periods – best appreciated on one the muse- on periods – best appreciated ums weekly French) sculpture – from Dvaravati to Ratanakosin – from Dvaravati sculpture 1402; 1 Th Na Phra That; admission 40B; 1402; 1 Th Na Phra That; admission riverWed-Sun; bus 503, 506, 507, 53, Tha Mahathat) ferry Often touted as ’s biggest mu- biggest as Southeast Asia’s touted Often seum, the NATIONAL MUSEUM MUSEUM NATIONAL rbrbT#yIRl$kocsj'(k^b drinking water to the public. drinking water by Rama Chulalongkorn), the statue V (King was originally attached to a well that provided (borrowed from Hindu mythology’s Dharani), Hindu mythology’s (borrowed from end at the northern pavilion stands a white in 19th century late in the the field. Erected of of that year. A large kite competition is also competition kite A large that year. of season (mid- the kite-flying during held here to April). February were held in 1976, without official in 1976, without held sanction, were demonstrations in the students killed for Thai lonelyplanet.com home to an impressive collection of religious religious of collection home to an impressive BANGKOK 1422; ThNaPhraLan; of San’slongtourist-trap- thecountry.Khao zone forbackpackers transitinginandout San,adecompressionalso hometoThKhao river andlotsof unfettered wandering.Itis neighbourhood andoffers easyaccesstothe mostcharming is Bangkok’s Banglamphu [k']Ykrô Banglamphu art galleryisopentothepublic. Monument.Astudentandfaculty Feroci), artistwhodesignedthe anItalian butions of Professor SilpaBhirasri (Corrado and contemporary art,thankstothecontri- then ledthenation’stransitionintoEuropean intraditionalpaintingtechniques. It servants site theGrandPalace, originallytrainedcivil ferry ThaChang) Sun; bus12,44,503,506,508,river first Thailand’s }sk;bmpk]ypLb]xkdi SILPAKORN UNIVERSITY anescapefromthecrowds. visit ifyouneed it asa‘deadzone’–butthegalleryisworth best –infact,someof theartsnobs criticise isthatit’snotThailand’s general consensus artists whoreceive government support.The of traditionalandcontemporary art,mostlyby 112 general-store goods. still hass but you’llalsosee average Thai folk. Sure you’ll seesomeforeigners andbigextended Arabfamilieshagglingover beadedsandals fully choreographed danceroutinestagedinfrontofidlingcarsduringalongred trafficlight. infrontoftheshoppingcentre.out. Bandsandfashionshowsperform Ononevisit, wesawa spaces for flirting andchilling.spaces forflirting French. After sunset,theelevated walkwaybecomesacityparkwithstudentsfillingtheempty the elevated walkwaythatencirclesamonumenthonouring avery minorThai over victory the and -watching: what youwanttoeatorwhere you’re from.Here are ourfavourite spotsforblessed anonymity shops, nobeerstalls,justsomeshopssellingdustymosquitocoilsandbook satchels. then anotherleftorrightonTh Phra Sumen,BAM!, there’s aThai neighbourhood.Nointernet San ontoTh aleftoffTh ‘ghosts’millingabout. Ifyoutake Tanao Khao for allthehalf-naked and Thais whooncelived here have longsincemoved awaybecausetheycouldn’tcomeandgoeasily and curseLonelyPlanetforbeinglazy.Oryoucouldrealise San isfortouristsandany thatKhao Bangkok hasbecome. The obviousansweristogetonabusandgoanothertourist ghetto You’ve wandered Sanfive upanddownTh Khao timesnow andjustcan’tbelieve howtouristy SO REAL THAILAND AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights MBK Victory Monument There are thisallover plenty ofplaceslike thecity,where nobodycares where you’re going, (Map pp128–9 this iswhere; SkytrainNational Stadium)Ontheweekends, Bangkokhangs ǎ amláw and a multiblock market ofhairbrushes,batteries,amláw andamultiblock market polyester clothesandother h art university art (Chao Phraya Express ofcentral Bangkok,thisquietsuburb Tha Nonthaburi)North 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pmSat& 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, (Map pp116–17 ; SkytrainVictory Monument)ExittheSkytrainstationto (Map (Map p130 ; % , oppo- 0 2221 cle. Itwas erected in1932tocommemorate to becomethenation’s‘fatherof modern immigratingtoThailand(AD 1932).Before to signifytheyearBuddhistEra(BE)2475 ment andburied75cannonballsinitsbase artist CorradoFeroci designedthemonu- absolute to constitutionalmonarchy. Italian Thailand’s momentoustransformationfrom 44, 511,512) ferry ThaPhraAthit,busadamnoen Klang,ThDinSo;river large, ArtDeco isthisnotice onyourwayintoBanglamphu One of thefirst strikinglandmarksyou’ll vo=lk;iupNxit(kTbxw^p isRatchathewi. Skytrain station to SiamSquare Theclosest orSukhumvit. another convenient optionforhoppingover khlong transport optionforinlanddestinations.The portfolio boxes. Busistheprimarypublic and lottery-ticket dealers withtheirwooden streetscape civilservants –safari-uniformed the Thaipartsof thearea there isawork-day asyoumovedisappear awayfromtheriver. In throughout neighbouring streetsthroughout butquickly restaurants, silver –sprawl stalls shops, beer –internetping tentacles cafés,Western-style (canal) taxi along Khlong SaenSaebis alongKhlong (canal)taxi occupyingtheavenue’s cir- traffic monument Mp pp120-1; (Map

lonelyplanet.com

Th Ratch- BANGKOK Wat phrá 113 taxi taxi 9am-5pm; , within , within handicraft 0 2224 8807; h khlong % dates from the dates (Continued on page 132) page on (Continued (rounded bowls) that (rounded bowls) that Soi Ban Baht, Th Bamrung Meuang; bàat (Ratchanatda; Map pp120-1 ;

(Map pp120-1 ;

(magical charm amulets) in all sizes, amulets) in all sizes, (magical charm 10am-6pm; bus 508, khlong Fah) Pan taxi to Tha About half a dozen families still ham- half a dozen About At the peak, you’ll find a breezy 360-degree 360-degree you’ll find a breezy At the peak, the equipment and process used. To find the equipment and process used. To find ( Fah from Tha Pan the village pier), head south along Th Boriphat, past then turn left into Th Bamrung Meuang, Soi Ban Baht. village the I to make food alms from the monks carry to receive faithful Buddhists every morning. Today the bowl mass pro- on a monk relies average duced in China, but the traditional technique survives in Ban Baht by thanks to patronage tourists. from eight separate mer the bowls together they say, the steel representing, pieces of (which the Wheel of of eight spokes The symbolise Buddhism’s Eightfold Path). with bits of fused fire in a wood joints are and coated copper, and the bowl is polished A typi- black lacquer. with several of layers cal output is one bowl per day. If you pur- show you will chasea bowl, the craftsperson a well-known market selling Buddhist a well-known market phim not only fea- shapes and styles. The amulets also famous the Buddha, but of images ture deities. Full Buddha Thai monks and Indian Wat Rajanadda also for sale. is an are images but a place to purchase a charm, expensive good place to look. BAN BAHT (MONK’S BOWL VILLAGE) [hko[k^i ef-Just when you start to lament the adverse this tourism, pay a visit to of fects h Th Khao San. This is the walking distance of only surviving established by Rama village which includes a candle-lit procession up the up the procession a candle-lit includes which Mount. Golden Bangkok’s side. photogenic most view of RAJANADDA WAT ;yfik(oyffk from , Chai Across Th Maha Rajanadda fluenced by Burmese models. The wat has cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Mahachai; bus 56, 505, khlong taxi to Tha Phan Fah) mid-19th century. It was built under Ramamid-19th century. It was possibly in- III and is an unusual specimen,

0 % (Map pp120-1 ;

(Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map 8am-5pm; bus 508, 511, khlong taxi Wat Saket BANGKOK •• Sights h amphitheatre . Like all worthy summits, the all worthy summits, the . Like () is dedicated to the fallen, (stupa) is dedicated chedi under construction by Rama III, col- ,

This artificial hill was created when a large when a large This artificial hill was created

were added during WWII to prevent the hill added during WWII to prevent were there in November year from eroding. Every Wat Saket, on the grounds of is a big festival government) in the stupa. The concrete walls The concrete stupa. in the government) lapsed would soil beneath because the soft mud-and-brick not support it. The resulting hill was left to sprout weeds until Rama IV Rama built a small stupa on its crest. V later housed and a Buddha added to the structure him by the British to from India (given relic stupa plays a good game of optical illusion, appear- plays a good game of location. Serpentineing closer than its real wind through an artificial hill shaded steps signed are which some of by gnarled trees, of and pictures and past graves in English, wealthy benefactors. to Tha Phan Fah) Khao Thong), Golden Mount (Phu temple’s is visible from Th Ratchadamnoen,which 2223 4561; btwn Th Wora Chak & Th Boriphat; admission to Golden Mount 10B; Even if you’re wat-ed out, you should take take wat-ed out, you should if you’re Even a brisk walk to WAT SAKET & GOLDEN MOUNT SAKET & GOLDEN MOUNT WAT ;yflitgdL interior walls. interior central lines the historic photographs and a gallery of the tanks met the crowd. The complex is an archi- Thai temple adaptation of interesting for a secular purpose. and political A tecture tent over the continued military the continued dictatorship; over tent killed when were than 70 demonstrators more Ratchadamnoen to protest the arrest of politi- Ratchadamnoen of the arrest to protest their discon- express and to cal campaigners rally. More than 200,000 people assembled rally. More and along Th at the Democracy Monument bered in Thai as ‘sip-see tula’, the date of the in Thai as ‘sip-see of tula’, the date bered event) by the military during a pro-democracy commemorates the civilian demonstrators demonstrators the civilian commemorates (remem- 1973 killed on 14 October who were This peaceful intersection, Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; bus 2, 82, 511, 512) OCTOBER 14 MEMORIAL OCTOBER MEMORIAL 14 vo=lk;ibpN 14 "=]kf} the ‘Demo’ has become a symbolic spot for spot for has become a symbolic the ‘Demo’ most notablypublic demonstrations, during of the antimilitary, protests pro-democratic 1992. art’, Feroci designed monuments for Italian for Italian monuments designed art’, Feroci dictator Benito years recent In Mussolini. lonelyplanet.com A B C D E F To Ayuthaya (32km); 114 INFORMATION DRINKING To Bangkok Golf Club (1km); Saraburi (62km) Chinese Embassy...... 1 D5 ICQ...... 18 D4 Saraburi (62km) Th Dechatungkha Laotian Embassy...... 2 E5 Mae Nam Chao Phraya 1 Nepalese Embassy...... 3 E6 ENTERTAINMENT 1

House...... (see 19) Srongprapa Rd 15 GREATER BANGKOK SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Royal City Avenue (RCA)...... 19 E6 Asian Oasis...... 4 C7 Tawandaeng Beer Hall...... 20 D7 Bangkok University Art Gallery.....5 E7 ...... 21 D5 Children's Discovery Museum...... 6 D4 Zeta...... (see 19) PAK House of Dhamma...... 7 D4 KRET Manohra Cruises...... (see 12) SHOPPING Tadu Contemporary Art...... 8 D5 .....22 D4 Wat Chong Nonsi...... 9 D7 Talat Phahonyothin...... 23 D5 Former Bangkok International Wat Pak Nam...... 10 B6 To Skills Development Airport (Don Muang) ...... 11 B5 TRANSPORT Centre for the Blind (2km) Eastern BusKo Terminal Kret (Ekamai)....24 E6 Don Muang SLEEPING Northern & Northeastern Bus Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa..12 B7 Terminal (Mo Chit)...... 25 D4 2 Reflections Rooms...... 13 D5 Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai 2 Thai House...... 14 A4 Mai)...... 26 B5 Th Chaeng Wattana We-Train International House.....15 E1 To Ko Kret (3km) EATING Aw Taw Kaw Market...... 16 D5 306 Chamlong's Asoke Café...... 17 D4 304 Laksi 1

Th Tivanon 3099

BANG Th Ramindra

Khlong Bang Talat KHEN

Th Prachacheun

3 302 3 Th Ngam 304 Wong Wan

Viphavadi Rangsit Hwy

Expressway Om (2nd Stage) Khlong NONTHABURI 3110 Khlong Kasetsart 3215 Prem University Prison Bangkhen

301 340 14

31 Th Ratchada Th Phahonyothin

Khlong 3202 BANG phi SON sek LAT

4 Bang 4 Chatuchak PHRAO Park Phahonyothin Kruai 25 BANG 7 Luang 306 SEU Lat Phrao Khlong Bang Chatuchak Ὀ17 6 Park BANG 22 KRUAY Bang Seu Mo Chit Ramindra Expressway Kamphoeng Pet Phraya Ὀ18 Ratchadapisek p 16

BANGPHAT Chao Th Padiphat 23 Saphan Kwai

Nam SI YAN Sulthisan Th Lat Phrao 26 TALING Khlong CHAN Mae HUAY 338 Th Phahonyothin KHWANG 13 Ari Huai Khwang 5 To Nakhon Samsen 5 Bangkok Th Ratwithi Pathom (32km) Thailand Sanitwong THEWET Soi 39 336 Cultural 8 (Soi 2 Centre PrachaUthit) DUSIT Th Thiamruammit

Noi Chitlada Viphavadi Rangsit Hwy BANGKOK 1 BANG Th Charan Palace 21 NOI 11 Th Ramkhamhaeng KAPI BANGLAMPHU Hua Mark Bangkok Noi Rama IX Royal City Ave Sports Complex Makkasan Th Rama IX Ramakhamhaeng KO RATANAKOSIN Th Phetburi University Khlong Bang ὈὈὈ 19 Th Phetburi Tat Mai Th Phra Ram I 3 Khlong Saen Saep THONBURI CHINATOWN Wat Hualamphong

kok Samitivej Arun Th Phetburi Tat Mai Soi 21 (Asoke) Hospital Expressway KHLONG 6 (1st Stage) TAN 6 Yai KHLONG Lumphini Th SukhumvitTOEY 4 Park Phrom Tha Phetkasem ὈὈὈTHUNG Phong Soi 55 (Thong Lor) Wong MAHAMEK Soi 63 (Ekamai) Wian Yai Soi 71 10 Thong Ekamai Prakhanong See Central Bangkok Map (pp116–17) Lor To Nakhon Chaisi (31km); Th Rama IV 3 Khlong Rose Garden (32km); Th Narathiwat 24 Nakhon Pathom (35km) Th Phetkasem Lumphini Boxing Kasem

Ratchanakharin 0 0 Stadium 5 Soi 77 Th Si Nakharin DAO TROK Phra Krung Khlong Phasi Charoen (Under Construction) Khanong Khlong KHANONG 4 CHAN Th Taksin Th Charoen Nakhon Th Chan Phadung On Nut Dao 12 Khanong Tha Ratchasingkhon KHLONG Khlong Seacon TOEY PHRA Tha Daokanong 20 Shopping Wat Ratchasingkhon PORT KHANONG Square THANON Expressway 7 BANG Krungthep (1st Stage) 7 KHUN Bridge TOK THIAN Chai Wat Thammamongkhon Th Rama III 9 Rama IX Royal Sanam Soi 101 34 Th Suksawat (Th Phra Ram III) Park 303 Khlong RATBURANA Soi 103 (Soi Udom Suk) Floating 35 Market Outer Ring Road Saphan Phra Ram IX Phraya BANGNA ὈὈ Th Phet Chacheuntg

Chao 3 miles 5 km Nam

Mae 8 PHRA 8

Skytrain & Stations PRADAENG 115 Subway & Stations

To Samut To Samut Prakan Sakhon (19km) (3km) 116 CENTRAL BANGKOK CITY CTRY

Saphan Th Sa Krungthon ng A B C kh a D a m lo i n k s a a h h p TALING CHAN g c n Church of t u o a S the Immaculate w R V it h n Conception T h m a T S n a e R 1 n s ra a a THEWET m r h a h Dusit P C S Th

h Palace Ra h T 17 h tch T T Park aw To Southern 13 ithi Bus Terminal (4km) Th U NaiThong 15 14 1 DUSIT Soi 12 Amphon 22 Th Saphan S Park Chitlada n i ri Phra Ay Royal 5 Palace a Ram VIII uth m ay Plaza A a Dusit

n Th Parusakkawan Zoo ru K Palace A a i Chitlada s a h T em T h N Park P 9 h See Banglamphu Map (pp120–1) g r i n a a o t Khlong Phadung Kasem P a h i T m n Th W ip - t o K a U h l h t a a o c h 2 isut Kasa a P r T Royal P n o Turf it h h Th Somdet th T k Club A a a Khlong Banglamphu t N hr P g h Kh n T T long Saphan Th ho h Bangko p Ph T k Noi Phra Phra Pin Plao ra ra h ak S P Bangkok Noi Pin Klao h um hi C T T tsa en h h h L n T n K u ul BANGLAMPHU a ru k o aw n k Soi S g Lu Dam n a t noen o K n a Th Ratcha Klang akh a g h Ne s d ua Th Ratchadamnoen N Nok e Bangkok Thammasat T amnoen h m Klang T Adventist a University T r T h r Lan Luang (Mission) h T ok Th

k P Phranno h Sa- h T A Ke Hospital

a R t s PHRA NAKHON t N T a a h i a S Dam t d r a o o Sanam h n h c o g R a o h a i h S p k T i T Luang n a i C r n

h n

M g n i o i a a B k T

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r BANGKOK a h h

u h h T n Khlong Law Na Phra La T o Th n T M C NOI T

o h a A m r ram T o m ph Th Bot Th I Ba V a W m r r un i h g m n Grand M T eua a ng R Palace 2 h T n o T h a h L k h u u a Kasem n Y g Th Charo p g an en Krung a W r h ai T SATTRU PHAI h u T Khlong One Ang h B Khlong Mon T T h h T Th Phra M Phiphit CHINATOWN a t a i g p t e r See Ko Ratanakosin Map (p130) a i n h t c e u a p t S h i h a k u r i p a t e Th Charat Muang T w h h a a c T r M Th r a h k k C a a h ha T g 4 kk h h a m ap n e h C C M g o e o D t n Khlong Phadung Krung ng h h h o SAMPHAN R a T T T w Th Charoen Muang W t h h T a THAWONG a T r h T ok c w K t a ra a s i R Church of g n Hualamphong h o Santa Cruz T Th S BANGKOK YAI S M on h Hualamphong ae N gw T am at Cha o P hra S o n ya i C o k h h o a k p r a i o

h Th Phaya Mai e N t n a

T a h h P c h So h a m a Khlong Bangkok Yai r d et a P C n ha M o i t h P hr h T ay a T Phraya Th Si 5 See Chinatown & Phahurat Map (pp118–9) T h It sara pha 32 p 10 oi T Th Int S h haraph it M ak 4 Th Charoen Krung Ya Soi 3 g Lat a on Th h uraw Wong e h S t s T Wian Yai Ra a aroen k h Ch BANG RAK Wong T Rd i Wian Yai a h 40 m T KHLONG SAN Soi Silo T h t n h i T e o s h P T k T a S r o h a T i W m THONBURI a S h t u T Th Krung Thonburi Su u a an r 12 Ph a n Saphan lu s a Taksin Saphan k 6 Taksin

n Surasak o h k a See Silom, Sathon & Riverside Map (pp124–5) N en ro ha C Th CTRY CITY 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles 117

To Ari Skytrain Terminal (1km) E F GH T h Na INFORMATION SLEEPING kh n o i National Library...... 1 C1 Ibis Siam Bangkok...... 11 F2 n h Ch t a o 16 Phyathai Hospital 1...... 2 F3 Peninsula Hotel...... 12 C6 isi y n Samsen o TAT Main Office...... 3 H3 Shanti Lodge...... 13 C1 h 1 a Sri Ayuttaya Guest House...... 14 C1 Th h Su P kh SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Taewez Guest House...... 15 C1 oth h ai T Bankok Doll Factory & PHAYATHAI Museum...... 4 F3 EATING Sanam Pao Bronze Figure...... 5 C2 Baan Suan Pai...... 16 F1

Th Phra Ram V ...... 6 D2 Kaloang Home Kitchen...... 17 B1 Khlong Samsen Victory Monument...... 7 F2 Pickle Factory...... 18 F2 Wang Suan Phakkat...... 8 F3 k o l ...... 9 D2 DRINKING a k n Yok Yor Marina & Restaurant..10 C5 Water Bar...... o 19 F2 a HUAY KHWANG r Th h w R k a a g S tc Expwy h n a ENTERTAINMENT w o h it hi s T Raintreea Pub...... 20 F2 h c 7 Saxophonea Pub & Restaurant..21 F2 r Victory 18 P - Bangkhlo h 2 Monument SHOPPINGT

A Thewet Market...... 22 C2 soke 21 n a T i h RATCHATHEWI w D Phayathai a - i h i a Ratchada n TRANSPORT Rama Th t Th Rangnam o s Da S a 19 S in en IX i y h g Royal Nepal ...... 23 E3 Ay a 11 u p Ratchaprar Th th h k a P ya t u S pisek Expwy h e T o a 20 L y i n o a S P 4 23 8 op Phayathai Th Ph 2 ra Ram IX Th Khlong Samsen Petc hab uri Makkasan

See Siam Square & Map (pp128–9) Soi W atta 3 naw g Ratchathewi on n PRATUNAM g Th o Ma h kka T san t a h Skytrain T n ) a d Th Petc Khlong Saem Saeb R h B aburi 3 Tat Mai s h s T e Phetburi SIAM SQUARE l e National r i Th t Phra Stadium Central i W Ram 1 h k World ( See Th Sukhumvit Map (pp122–3) u Siam m Plaza y o National a S 1 h

Stadium t i i i Chitlom o ) o S 1 Mahboonkrong W S

2

(MBK) i h 5 i r T Ploenchit T o h n i C i T h m h u S lal a Plo o o a e n ( gko a nch u i rn t S h d t S t e

a n a Chalerm Mahanakhon k

h a g y 3 o c n n a s 4 Soi Chulanlongkorn 5 t Skytrain 1 n u a h a Soi 11 A i L o

P D R i s o i

i n S o Nana 5 o h r h o S S 1 T n T T

e i 9

i o 1 H Ratchadamri Royal o S i S T h h PATHUMWAN Bangkok 8 o T S S Sports Club i uk o h S um Stadium v Charusathian it Sukhumvit

Chulalongkorn Ex

University pwy

Soi 27

Soi 14 Soi 18 Soi

Th Sarasin Soi

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T h Lumphini C KHLONG o n TOEY v THUNG y e S n MAHAMEK o Sirikit t i Centre Chong 1 h) ( ort A Nonsi (N t eua a Soi 12 n N k ho a Khlong at n T h S Tai (South) h T p Toei r a P Th Sathon s i a t ha ) n nt Na S i o o S i SATHON S t 1 6 L u o hl u np i ua s oi S li See & Th 3 S ph Du Phra Ram IV Map (p127) m ga i N So Th Sanam Chai 118 CHINATOWN & PHAHURATSoi Long Tha CITY CTRY Rommaninat See Banglamphu Map (pp120–1) Park A B C D Th Ratchini Th Atsadang Th Lua Saranrom ng Royal Garden

1 Th Tri Thong CHINATOWN

Khlong One Ang Th Charoen Krung

23

Th Fuang Nakhon PHAHURAT

riphet 18 24

Th T t a Th Phra Phiphit w Khlong Lawt ra Nakhon k a Kasem h C Central Th Phahurat h See Ko Ratanakosin Map (p130) 7 26 Department T Store 1

2 3 S oi g A n TM t a e Sampeng La (Soi Want 1) d h a p a ts 20 r A k ) a Th Ratchini 2 1 h h 28 1 T C i o h S T ( t 19 ra g n ru m Th Chakkaphet a B i o S Tha Pak Talaat/ Atsadang 25 Th S ap ha n Ph k 3 ut a g h n Th Ban Mo c Tha Pak a o h w Talaat/Atsadang a a M h Tro T tc Th h a k Krai An R uw on h Tha Saphan g T Phut 17 Saphan Phra Phuttha Yot Fa (Memorial Bridge) Phra Pokklao Bridge

Tha Mae Nam Chao Phraya Ratchawong 4

5

o a h C

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INFORMATION Police Station...... 1 A2 Grand China Princess...... 9 E3 Krung Kasem Srikung Hotel...... 10 G4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Millennium Hilton...... 11 F6 Shangarila Restaurant...... 21 D3 About Studio/About Café...... 2 G3 River View Guest House...... 12 F5 Th Phadungdao Seafood Stalls...22 F3 Sri Gurusingh Sabha (Sikh Shanghai Inn...... 13 F3 Temple)...... 3 C2 TT Guest House...... 14 H6 ENTERTAINMENT Wan Fah Cruises...... (see 27) Chalermkrung Royal Theatre...... 23 B1 ...... 4 E2 EATING 6 Wat Prayoon...... 5 A4 Bà-mìi Hong Kong...... 15 E3 SHOPPING Wat Traimit...... 6 G4 Hong Kong Noodles...... 16 E3 Nakhon Kasem...... 24 D2 Nang Nual Riverside Pub...... 17 C3 Pak Khlong Market...... 25 A3 SLEEPING Old Siam Plaza...... 18 B2 Phahurat Market...... 26 B2 238 Guesthouse...... 7 B2 Royal India...... 19 C2 River City Complex...... 27 F6 Bangkok Centre Hotel...... 8 G4 Samosa Vendor...... 20 C2 Sampeng Lane...... 28 C2 CTRY CITY 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 119

E F GH

m 1

se S oi Rong Muang 4 POM PRAP SATTRU PHAI ung Ka

Kr

Th S Th oi Ro Luan ng Mu g ang 3

Th Yukhon 2

n o a k Soi R p g ong M a n uan u a g 1 T S h M 2 C h ha T h ro T en K ru ng p a T h h Ch p arat 4 u Mua n ng a 9 r a s It

k o r Th Santiphap T Wong Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem 16 Wian 22 Karakada 21

T h t a M w a a s i t o g r a n i 3 d o c Th C S h haroe g i n M n t uang u h d T a h P h 22 15 T Th 2 P Th 13 h Y ra ao R w am ar at IV

it T n h a S Hualamphong ph a C 10 a m h w p a o e Th Rong Meuang a n r Y g o e h L n T a K ( S r Th Songwat o u i n g W 6 Hualamphong a n it 4 1 ) 8 SAMPHAN Th Traimit THAWONG

n La Kao Th

See Silom, Sathon & Riverside Map (pp124–5)

S 12 o i Soi 20 C h a 5 r o e n

P h Tala Harbour a t Nai n Department i Tha Krom Chao t (Harbour Department Soi 22 m

Pier) a r

a n h t o

u h

r k

h a P N

a a So h i Sa h w a ang Yotha a Th M M

h h Holy T Rosary T 0 Church 3 i o 14 S a th o 6 Y h T hraya Th Si P Th Cha roen 27 BANG RAK Na krom 11 120 BANGLAMPHU Th Kasem CITY CTRY Tha Saphan Rama VIII A B C D

S oi 5

1

3 S i Soi 1 o 20 Th Phra Pin Klao 1 Santichaiprakan Park 37 31 Soi 4 45 42 Tha Saphan Phra Pin Klao 60 e 56 Th Samsen ha C Tha Phra Athit rok Kai 2 Th Phra55 Athit T Soi 2 (Tha Banglamphu) 36 7 28

Soi Chan 44 Songkhram T Banglamphu ro g Th Phra Sumen See Ko Ratanakosin Map (p130) 27 k Market n ho Saphan Phra Su p Pin Klao 34 a rat a akr a 21 h y S BANGLAMPHU C ra o 41 50 h i 26 h P R T 5 o a T a m h h b ri Kr C ut Soi Rongmai 58 a i S o m 3 i Soi Khra Si a a n T Th Chao Fa a N h T e Th Rambutri a S Th T h o T 15 M m 30 ani 2 d e 23 t P 43 h ra 4 48 T P 33 3 h in

R P 10 59 a la t o 39 52 ch Trok Mayom 49 in 47 54 i 46 National 40 Th Khao San Theatre 61 22 National Museum 24 38

Soi Damn PHRA oen K NAKHON lang Th Ratcha damno en Kla Royal Hotel ng Tha Phra o Thammasat a 12 Chan University n T a 53 T h i

T a ro k h A N Sa 4 -K T t e T s h n P a h e ra d C o T ha a n h n n

m g Sanam a B

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a h

n c

t a

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R a Wat t h Matathat T Tha Maharat Th Bunsiri INFORMATION Buddy Lodge...... 22 D3 DRINKING

Bangkok Bank...... 1 D2 t Chai's House...... 23 B3 Baghdad Café...... 45 D2 a Khlong Law Banglamphu Post Office...... 2 D3 h Donna Guesthouse...... 24 D3 Cave...... 46 D3 T Th M Bankok Tourism Division...... 3 B3 a Hotel De Moc...... 25 F2 Center Khao San...... 47 C3 aha r not h Chana Songkhram Police Station..4 C3P Mango Lagoon deep...... 48 D3

Mahamakuta Buddhist Bookshop..5 D2a Place...... 26 B2 Hippie de Bar...... 49 C3 51 N

5 Rim Khob Fah Bookstore...... 6 E4h New Siam GH...... 27 C2 Illy Café...... 50 C3 T Siam Commercial Bank...... 7 D2 New World House Apartments Lulla Bar...... 51 D5 Silpakorn rung Muang Vieng Travel...... University 8 E2 & Guest House...... 28 D2 Molly Bar...... 52 D3 Th Bam

Old Bangkok Inn...... 29 F4 Phra Nakorn Bar...... 53 D4o Th Na Phra Lan Th Lak Meuang a n

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Viengtai Hotel...... 30 C3 Susie Pub...... 54 D3a

Tha T Chang Democracy Monument...... 9 E4 Villa Guest To-Sit...... 55 C2 h Jitti's Gym Thai Boxing & House...... 31 D2 T m Wat Phra Th Botphra Homestay...... 10 C3 Kaew ENTERTAINMENT Monk's Bowl Village...... 11 F6 EATING Ad Here the 13th...... 56 D2 Namit October 14 Memorial...... 12 D4 Arawy...... Th32 KaE4nlaya Ratchadamnoen Stadium (Sanam 's Gallery...... 13 F4 Chabad House...... 33 D3 Muay Ratchadamnoen)...... 57 G3 Sao Ching-Cha...... 14 E5 Hemlock...... 34 B2

Foreign g Wat Bowonniwet...... 15 D3 Isan Restaurants...... 35 G2 SHOPPING n Ministry o Wat Rajanadda...... 16 F4 Jey Hoy...... 36 D2 Banglamphu Market...... 58 D3 h

T

i

Wat Saket...... T 17 F5 Khrua Nopparat...... 37 C2 Kraichitti Gallery...... 59 C3 r

T h

Grand Palace

Wat Suthat...... 18 E6 May Kaidee...... 38 D3 Taekee Taakon...... Th Ratchini 60 C2 h 6 M Th Sanam Chai T Wat Tritosathepa Prakorb's House...... 39 C3 Th Khao San Market...... 61 C3 Th Charoen Krung h Soi Long Mahaworawihan...... a 19 E2 Ranee Guesthouse...... 40 C3 r a t Ricky's Coffeeshop...... Saranrom41 B2 TRANSPORT SLEEPING KO RATANAKOSINRoti-Mataba...... Royal42 C2 Tha Phan Fah (Khlong Baan Chantra...... 20 D1 Shoshana...... Garden43 C3 taxis)...... 62Th Fuang Nakhon F4 Bella Bella House...... 21 B2 Ton Pho...... 44 B2 International...... 63 F4 CTRY CITY 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 121

T h L Parusakkawan E F u GH k Palace

Wat Intharawihan 1 L u t a e n w g e h

T

i

o S Th Krung Kasem 1 t i h k o Lik N

h n e T o n Th U-Thong Nai m a d a h c t Th a R P hi h ts 8 T an ul ok i a t Soi 6 a ip t a h c a r Khlong Phadung K P

h T Th Nakhon Pathom 2

Th Phra Ram V T h

W asem is u t 25 K a s 35 19 a t Khlong Prem Prechakon

57

T h Tro L k Bahn Lo u k Lu an g T h

P h an i 3 an g

o

S

n i an D w Sa h n T ho ak Khlong Banglamphu N Th So i Ph ra su li Ne ua Th Phra Sumen 29 g

9 13 63 Th Lan Luang 6 4

ora Chak

62

Th W

16 32 T h Dam rong Rak

t a

h 17 g p n i r o o h B P

i Th Maha Chai r h i T S

h T 5

Th Din So

Meuang Th Bamrung 14

S oi Ban Baht Th 18 Ba 11 mru ng Meu ang

2

n o 6 h k u

Th Burapha Y Tha h Khlong One Ang Rommaninat T POM PRAP Th SATTRU PHAI Park Lu ang See Chinatown & Phahurat Map (pp118–9) 122 TH SUKHUMVIT Phetburi CITY CTRY

Khlong A B C D ) a 6 u

e

N 8

2 a n 69 a 60

N

oi

1 S 24 33 ( 56 3

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26 27 o 1

64 Swiss i o

1 Soi 2 (Soi Phasak) 59 S / Park

7 Landmark 9 Hotel Soi 11 21 (As i i

Bangkok o o 1 28 5 oi S S / 54 S 55 1 Nana 1 i

Soi 4 (Nana Tai) 2 o T S 6 h 31 Chalerm Mahanakhon Expwy i Su 5 o 67 kh 1 21 S u m i v o it S 15 44 1 Soi 2 0 1 22

i 2 35 18 o Soi 19 1 Soi 23 (Prasanmit) S 63 8 40 i 16 o i S

o 12 S 57 66 Asoke 38 Sukhumvit 39

14 45 ) See Siam Square & m ) o

e Pratunam Map (pp128–9) Soi 25 d 3 e U d Soi 27

72 s a g 32 n w e a a

Soi 14 S ( D (

Th Phra Ram IV Map (p127) See Lumphini Park & 1 3 3 Soi 29 (Lak Khet) 3 i 71 i o o Soi 18 47 S S Rang 29 Mahal 41 Soi 31/1 Benjakiti i Park o /1 Soi 16 S 3 Soi 22 37 3 58

T

h

R 49 a 50 t Benjasiri c

h

S a Park

d o

4 i a

p 10

2

h

0

i

s e 43 k Soi 24 17

S

Port-Din Daeng Expwy

o

i

P

l

u

k

c

h i t KHLONG TOEY

5

Sirikit Centre

Bon Kai Queen Sirikit National Market Convention Centre

Khlong Toei

Soi 24

Soi 24

6

62 20 30 T h Phra RamIV CTRY CITY Th 0 400 m Petchaburi Tat 0 0.2 miles 123 Mai

Saem Saeb E F GH

INFORMATION Eugenia...... 22 D2 Tamarind Café...... 49 D4 Asia Books...... (see 61) Federal Hotel...... 23 B1 Thong Lee...... 50 D4 Asia Books...... 1 B2 Golden Palace Hotel...... 24 A1 Kitchen...... 51 F5 Kamphaeng Phet Bumrungrad Hospital...... 2 A1 HI-Sukhumvit...... 25 G6 T 7 h Pet 1 Dasa Book Café...... 3 E4 JW Marriott Bangkok...... 26 A2 DRINKING chabu ri Tat Indian Embassy...... 4 D1 Majestic Suites...... 27 A2 Cheap Charlie's...... 52 B2 Mai Israeli Embassy...... 5 C2 Miami Hotel...... 28 B2 Face Bangkok...... 53 G6 Japan Foundation...... 6 C1 Novotel Lotus Bangkok...... 29 D3 Jool's...... 54 A2 Kinokuniya...... (see 61) Sala Thai Daily Mansion...... 30 A6 Sin Bar...... 55 A2 Philippine Embassy...... 7 E5 Sam's Lodge...... 31 C2 Rutnin Eye Hospital...... 8 C1 Seven...... 32 D3 ENTERTAINMENT Samitivej Hospital...... 9 F3 Soi 1 Guesthouse...... 33 A1 Bed Supperclub...... 56 B1 Siam Society...... (see 12) Suk 11...... 34 B2 Living Room...... 57 C3 Spanish Embassy...... 10 C4 Westin Grande Sukhumvit...... 35 C2 Mambo Cabaret...... 58 D4 Nana Entertainment Plaza...... 59 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING Q Bar...... 60 B1 ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclists.. 11 E4 Al Hussain...... 36 A2 SFX Cinema...... (see 61) Ban Kamthieng...... 12 C3 Atlanta Coffeeshop...... (see 18) 65 Buathip Thai Massage...... 13 B1 Bourbon St Bar & Restaurant..... 37 D4 SHOPPING Divana Spa...... 14 C3 Cabbages & Condoms...... 38 B3 Emporium Shopping Centre...... 61 E4 2 J Avenue Marble House...... 15 B2 Crepes & Co...... 39 B3 Gallery F-Stop...... (see 49) Play Gallery...... (see 65) Dosa King...... 40 C2 Greyhound...... (see 61) Soi 8 Pro Language...... 16 B2 Govinda...... 41 D3 Khlong Toey Market...... 62 B6 Thailand Creative & Design Great American Rib Company.... 42 F6 Nandakwang...... 63 D2 Center...... (see 61) Greyhound Café...... (see 61) Phu Fa...... 64 B2 World Fellowship of Buddhists...17 D4 Kuppa...... 43 C4 Playground!...... 65 H2 Le Banyan...... 44 B2 Propaganda...... (see 61) SLEEPING Maha Naga...... 45 D3 Rasi Sayam...... 66 E3 Atlanta ...... 18 A3 Nasir al-Masri Restaurant & Th Sukhumvit Market...... 67 B2 Bel-Aire Princess...... 19 B1 Shishah...... 46 A1 Davis...... 20 D6 Pizzeria Bella Napoli...... 47 D3 TRANSPORT Dream Bangkok...... 21 B2 Soi 38 Night Market...... 48 G5 Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamal)...... 68 H6 Lufthansa Airlines...... 69 C1 To Bangkok Bike Rides (800m); Myanmar Airways International...... 70 C1 Spring (1km) 9 One-Two-Go...... 71 C3 3 Orient Thai...... (see 71) To Santika Scandinavian Airlines...... 72 C3 (500m) Vietnam Airlines...... 73 A2

Soi Pro 9 mmi 4 t i o S

chai) 37

) r Soi Phrom o L

g (Soi n o h T (

5 5 Phrom i Phong o S 61 4 Soi 39 (Phrompong)

Soi 41 1 3

4

i

Soi 5 So

3 9 4

i

o 11 S 7

Soi 45 T h Su Soi 28 k h Soi T um hong Soi 30 v Lo Soi 26 it r 1

3

Soi 5 5

Soi 34 61

51 Soi Thong Lor 9

Soi 57

42 Soi 5 48 Soi 2

6 So 3

i i

o 3 S

8

53 Soi 63 (Ekamai)

mvit 25 Soi 26 6

Sukhu

Ekamai 68 n La Kao 124 SILOM,Th SATHON & RIVERSIDE CITY CTRY

T A h B C D

C

h a r o S e o n i Soi 20 C K r h u a n

r Th Maha Nakhon 1 o g e n

P h Tal a at Nai n i Tha Krom t Chao (Harbour Soi 22

Department m

a Pier) r a

h t a

u F r

h o

P e So a a i S awa K h ng oth a i Th Y a o M S

h T

0 3 i o S Th Si Phraya a 2 th Yo Th Th Naret River City Complex

See Chinatown & Phahurat Map (pp118–9)

21 65 Tha Si Phraya n Yao) Sapha 2 (Soi i 3 43 So Soi

Th Mahesak 34

3 Th Soi 34 4 Char BANG RAK ng Th Surawo 58

o

en 9 2 39 Soi 20 (Soi Pradit)

Krung

27 S

o

i

Soi 35 2 Neilson Hays Th Surawong 2 Library Rotunda 18 Gallery Tha Meuang Khae

Phaya

28 Soi 18 S

thai S

o

i

– 2

6 6 B 3 29 Soi 3 36 an

53 gk

ok 38 S

4 o 55

i Expwy 20 3 S 38 0 o Soi iental) Central Soi i Or 14 (Soi Department 1 ( Store 17 5 40 Soi 59 57 Tha Oriental Th Silom

S o

i

4

2

a y 43 a r

h T P h

o

a Shangri-La P a 5 h Hotel n C 23

m Th a Soi Si Wiang

N Pramuan

e uan Phlu Th Surasak a Soi Wat S

M

Saphan

Taksin Wiang

Charat Surasak Tha Sathon (Central Pier) Th Saphan Taksin 24

6 CTRY CITY 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 125

See Siam Square & Pratunam Map (pp128–9) E F GH 25 Soi Ch Chulalongkorn ulalong korn 42 University Soi 11

Soi 15 1

S oi Chu Samyan lalong korn 6 0 Th Henri Dunant

12 Phraya Th Sri Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (Snake Farm)

Th Saep Th Ph ra Ram P I 2 r V a S t o u i c h Chulalongkorn a 46 Hospital Montien i 52 Hotel Soi Thaniya 8 41 Silom S o Lumphini i

Soi Patpong 1 P 61 a Park 33 t 40 64 Th Surawong p o S Silom Soi 4 o n g 47 i 48 44 Soi 2 42 6 2 16 ( S o i Patpong Night 50 T h Bangkok Market a Christian 49 Sala n 54 Daeng Silom T Hospital Th Sal a Complex w a n S ) Irish X- a Daeng 17 o 32 3 i om Change Sil T 1 Th h on 37 ath 15 D ach e n R Soi 2 c a h um 30 T n h 22 o A oi S C S o o n i v 5 60 e ( n S t o Th Chong Non i L S a o soi 14 l i a is a 1 63 7 t THUNG p ha S 56 ) ip Soi 9 (Suksavithaya) h MAHAMEK oi 16 45 P 26 Soi

sii 62 S o i

S i l o Soi 11 m 4

3 1

( S T o Soi Phiphat 2 rok i Chong 1 3 Nonsi V a S i t 13 o h i i ) S 19 u a n

) P ) uth h rth o l No i (S u ua ( n Ta Ne tho hon h Sa Soi 12 at T 6 Soi 10 S S Th o 51 i

1

2

10 5

S o i 5 Robot P i Building k 31 u Soi 7 (Soi Phra Phinij) n 11

S o Th Narathiwat Ratchana i

S S 35 t o L i

7 o S u t n u SATHON i ik s L P

o oi 2 u S i s

See Lumphini Park & Th Phra Ram IV Map (p127) 3 2 hai Pic u 1 Soi hl anp Su kharin (Chong Nongsi) i So 6 126 SILOM, SATHON & RIVERSIDE (pp124–5)

INFORMATION Oriental Hotel...... 20 A4 ENTERTAINMENT BNH...... 1 H4 Royal Orchid Sheraton...... 21 A3 Bamboo Bar...... (see 20) Communications Authority of Swiss Lodge...... 22 G3 DJ Station...... 46 G2 Thailand Office...... 2 B3 Freeman...... 47 G3 French Embassy...... 3 A4 EATING Lucifer...... 48 G3 Main Post Office...... 4 B3 Author's Lounge...... (see 20) Radio City...... 49 G3 Myanmar Embassy...... 5 E5 Ban Chiang...... 23 C5 Sala Rim Nam...... (see 20) Singapore Embassy...... 6 G5 Blue Elephant...... 24 C6 Tapas...... 50 G3 St Louis Hospital...... 7 E6 STA Travel...... 8 G2 Canteen...... 25 F1 SHOPPING Eat Me...... 26 G4 ...... 51 E5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Harmonique...... 27 B3 Jim Thompson...... 52 G2 Blue Elephant Thai Cooking Indian Hut...... 28 C4 Oriental Place...... 53 B4 School...... (see 24) Islamic Restaurant...... 29 B4 Patpong Night Market...... 54 G3 British Club...... 9 D3 La Boulange...... 30 G3 Silom Villiage Health Land...... 10 E5 Le Lys...... 31 G5 Centre...... 55 D4 M R Kukrit Pramoj House...... 11 G5 Lunch Stalls...... 32 H3 Soi Lalaisap...... 56 F4 Oriental Hotel Cooking Mizu's Kitchen...... 33 G2 Thavibu Gallery...... 57 C4 School...... (see 20) Sallim Restaurant...... 34 B3 Queen Saovabha Memorial Sara-Jane's...... 35 G6 TRANSPORT Institute (Snake Farm)...... 12 G2 Soi Pradit Market...... 36 D4 Air China...... 58 D3 Silom Thai Cooking School...... 13 E4 Talat ITF Food Stalls...... 37 F3 Air France...... 59 D4 Sri Mariamman Temple (Wat Tongue Thai...... 38 B4 Air New Zealand...... 60 F3 Phra Si Maha Umathewi)...... 14 D4 Yogi...... 39 C3 British Airways...... 61 H2 KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines...... (see 59) SLEEPING DRINKING Korean Air...... 62 E4 Bangkok Christian Guest Balcony...... 40 G2 Lao Airlines...... 63 F4 House...... 15 H3 Barbican Bar...... 41 G2 Qantas Airways...... (see 61) Dusit Thani...... 16 H3 O'Reilly's Irish Pub...... 42 H3 Singapore Airlines...... 64 H2 La Résidence Hotel...... 17 E3 Sirocco Sky Bar...... 43 B5 South African Airways...... (see 59) New Road Guesthouse...... 18 B4 Telephone...... 44 G3 Thai Airways International...... (see 63) Niagara Hotel...... 19 E4 Tower Inn Sky Garden...... 45 E4 World Travel Service...... 65 B3 Soi 4

CTRY CITY 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles LUMPHINI PARK & TH PHRAS oRAMi 5 IV 127

See Siam Square & Pratunam Map (pp128–9) A B Soi 6 C D 6

See Silom, Sathon & Riverside Map (pp124–5) Kian Gwan Soi 7 Building 3 28 21 24 13 25

Soi Lang Suan 18 Th Sarasin 1

Playground

u

y

a t t i

W i

r h Soi Polo 5 Polo Soi m T a d a h c t a 19 R Soi Polo h T

Thai Lanna 2 Pavilion Lumphini Park

Rama VI Statue (King ) Boat Rental Chinese Pavilion 12 Food Court 10 27 Suan Lum 4 Night 29 Bazaar THUNG 31 MAHAMEK Chinese Style Clock Tower 3

26

g 1 Lumphini aen la D Sa Soi Sala Daeng 2 Soi

Th Phra 20 9 Ram IV

7 14 See Th Sukhumvit Map (pp122–3) 17 30 on Neua (North) 22 Th Sath h) Banyan Tree 4 on Tai (Sout 5 Th Sath 1 16 8 11 To Garuda 2 Soi Goethe (350m)

Soi Saphan Khu

i S l o h p i 1 u D ( A 15 m t a a k g a N n i o p S ra at s i t)

S oi 5 S 23 ri ha B SATHON nt am Soi Suwan Saw a p N h i e So n SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ENTERTAINMENT Siri Pattana 70's Bar...... 24 B1 S INFORMATIONo School...... 14 B4 Brown Sugar...... 25 B1 i Alliance Française...... S 1 A4 Lumphini Stadium (Sanam u a Australian Embassy...... n 2 A4 SLEEPING Muay Lumphini)...... 26 C3

P Cambodian Embassy...... h 3 A1 Malaysia Hotel...... 15 C5 Met Bar...... (see 16) l Canadian Embassy...... u 4 A3 Metropolitan...... 16 B4 Natayasala (Joe Louis Puppet Danish Embassy...... 5 C4 Sukhothai Hotel...... 17 B4 Theatre)...... 27 C3 Diethelm Travel...... 6 C1 Shela...... 28 B1 Th Yen Akat EU Delegation...... (see 6) EATING French Consulate...... (see 1) Ngwan Lee Lang Suan...... 18 B1 SHOPPING li German Embassy...... 7 B4 Soi Polo Fried ...... ph 19 D2 Suan Lum Night 6 Du Goethe Institut...... 8 C4 Zanotti...... m 20 A4 Bazaar...... 29 C3 ga i N Irish Embassy...... 9 C4 So Surapon Gallery...... 30 A4 Japanese Embassy...... 10 C3 DRINKING Malaysian Embassy...... 11 A4 I-Chub...... 21 A1 TRANSPORT Police...... 12 C3 Moon Bar at Vertigo...... 22 B4 Royal Brunei South African Embassy...... 13 B1 Wong's Place...... 23 D5 Airlines...... 31 A3 7 1 128 i SIAM SQUARE & PRATUNAM o CITY CTRY S

A B C D Baiyoke Tower

Soi 19 2

1 Soi 13

i

o

1 S Pratunam

5 Market 1 Ratchathewi i o S

Soi 18 2

21

Pantip Plaza 22

yathai 18

h Pha 2 T 14 Tha Ratchathewi (Khlong taxis)

23

20 32

Soi Kasem San 2 38 30 Siam Discovery Centre Siam Central Soi Kasem San 1 43 Paragon World Plaza National 42 Siam 3 Stadium Center Wat Th Phra R Patum am I Siam National 39 Stadium 33 37

Soi 1

Soi 2 Th Phra Ram I SIAM SQUARE Soi 4 Mahboonkrong Soi 3 Soi 5

(MBK) Hard Soi 6 Rock Cafe 28 1 Soi ChulalongkornSoi 11 64 44 Soi 7 Soi 10 13

Soi 9

Soi 8

Soi Chulanlongkorn 5 Chulalongkorn Th Phayathai University PATHUMWAN 29 Th C 4 hulalongkorn

Th Henri Dunant INFORMATION Union Language School...... 18 B2 Asia Books...... (see 43) Yoga Elements Studio...... 19 F3 51 Asia Books...... (see 38) Peninsula Plaza British Council...... 1 B4 SLEEPING Foreign Correspondents Club of A-One Inn...... 20 A3 Thailand...... (see 49) Amari Watergate...... 21 D2 Indonesian Embassy...... 2 C1 Asia Hotel...... 22 B2 Four Seasons Kinokuniya...... (see 38) Bed & Breakfast Inn...... 23 A2 Hotel Netherlands Embassy...... 3 F4 Conrad Hotel Bangkok...... 24 F5 New Zealand Embassy...... 4 G6 Grand Hyatt Erawan...... 25 E4 Swiss Embassy...... 5 G3 Holiday Mansion Hotel...... 26 G4 Telephone Organization of Regent Hotel...... 27 E1 50 5 Thailand...... 6 E4 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square..28 C4 UK Embassy...... 7 F4 Pathumwan Princess...... 29 A4 Ratchadamri US Embassy...... 8 F6 Pranee Building...... 30 A3 Vietnamese Embassy...... 9 G4 VIP Guest House/Golden House...31 E3 16 Wendy House...... 32 A3 Royal SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bangkok Sports Club Absolute Yoga...... 10 E4 EATING American University Food Stalls...... 33 B3 Alumni...... 11 D6 Gourmet Paradise...... (see 38) AUA Language Center...... (see 11) Mahboonkrong (MBK) Food Chulalongkorn Art Centre...... 12 B6 Centre...... (see 44) ...... 13 D4 My Collection...... 34 G3 Ratchadamri Jim Thompson's House...... 14 A2 Pratunam Chicken Rice Th Krung Sri IMAX...... (see 38) Restaurants...... 35 E2 Lingam Shrine...... 15 F2 Whole Earth Restaurant...... 36 E5 6 Royal Bangkok Sports Club...... 16 D5 S Medical Spa...... 17 G3 DRINKING 11 Siam Ocean World...... (see 38) Diplomat Bar...... (see 24)

Chulalongkorn 12 University See Silom, Sathon & Riverside Map (pp124–5) CTRY CITY 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 129

E F GH Th Makkasan Mak kasan So i Wa 27 ttana wong 1

op 1 3

i r 46 u b a h PRATUNAM c t

Ratchaprar e P

Th i o S

35 t Mai Th Th Petchaburi Ta Petchabu Soi Petchaburi 35 ri Tat Mai Tha Pratunam (Khlong taxis) 2

Khlong Saem Saeb

Th Ratchadamri Tha Withayu (Khlong taxis) 15

Swissotel

Soi 32 Nai Lert Park Big C

Department ) d

Store R See Th Sukhumvit Map (pp122–3)

s

s

e l

e

r i

W ( 3

45 u 17 y a

it h Soi Gaysorn t 19 i

W Gaysorn 34 5 Chalerm Mahana Plaza n h o T 1 l

t i i

h o Soi Somkh S C 41 31 h T Central 6 Department 7 Store 26 Erawan Bangkok 10 khon Expwy 49 Chitlom Boutique Th ) Ploenc a Mall Maneeya hit u e

Centre 48 N 25 Amarin a

n

n Plaza a o Ploenchit s N

n i

47 o o 4 T S (

i T h 3 o S ukh S umvit i o

S

ENTERTAINMENT 3 9 Soi 2 (Soi Phasak) Calypso Cabaret...... (see 22)

Soi 4 (Nana Tai) EGV Grand...... (see 43) Lido Cinema...... 37 B3 Paragon Cineplex...... 38 C3 SF Cinema City...... (see 44) Scala Cinema...... 39 B3 24 SHOPPING 5 100Soi Tonson 1 Gallery...... 40 F5 Fly Now...... 41 E3 Jaspal...... 42 B3 Mae Fah Luang...... 43 B3 40 MahboonkrongSoi 2 (MBK)...... 44 A4 Soi 1 i d Phand...... 45 E3

u R ...... 46 E1 36

m

a Soi 2 u R TRANSPORT

i

All o American Airlines...... (see 48) S

Soi Lang Suan Seasons Place 4 Avis...... 47 G4 Soi 3 Cathay Pacific Airways...... 48 F4 China Airlines...... (see 51) Soi 4 Gulf Air...... 49 E4 Japan Airlines...... 50 D5 8 KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines...... (see 51) 6 Sindhorn Malaysia Airlines...... (see 48) Soi 5 Building 52 Northwest Airlines...... 51 D4 United Airlines...... 52 F6 Soi 6 See Lumphini Park & Th Phra Ram IV Map (p127) 0 400 m 130 KO RATANAKOSIN 0 0.2 miles CITY CTRY Tha Phra Athit (Tha Banglamphu) A B C D 8

Saphan Phra Pin Klao Khlon T g Bangkok Noi h Soi Rambutri 1 S T o h m d C BANGLAMPHU Bangkok it e h th t a Noi P o A To Wat Th Ratc h F ra r a h a Suwannaram P P (1km) h in T hini K la o

Tha Rot 6 Th Arunamarin Fai 10 19

7

t a h T 2 a r h

P

a

Siriraj N

Hospital h Tha Phra Thammasat T Chan University

Tha Wang Th Phr k Lang Th Phranno a Chan 3 S

o 1

i Tro M k Lang Wang a

T

o Nai o 12

m Wanglang Tha Maharat

t

20 a

r mnoen 3 a a

h d a Sanam

Tambon Soi Wat M Luang Rakha n Soi g h

18 T Ratcha

Soi Ban Chang

Th

2 9

Lo 5 Tha Chang Th Na Phra Lan Th Lak Meuang Royal Thai Survey Tha Wat Department Rakhang 15

4

Th S

Mae Nam Chao Phraya

anamchai

KO RATANAKOSIN 4

INFORMATION Grand Palace Bangkok Bank...... 1 C5 Bank of Ayudhya...... 2 C4 See Banglamphu Map (pp120–1)

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Amulet Market...... 3 C3 Grand Palace...... 4 D4 5 Lak Meuang (City Pillar)...... 5 D4 National Gallery...... 6 D2 Th Maharat National Museum...... 7 D2 Khlong Mon Royal Barges National Museum....8 B1 Silpakorn University...... 9 C4 ng Wa Niyosane Forensic hai h T 13 Medicine Museum...... 10 B2 T Wat Arun...... 11 C6 1 Wat Matathat...... 12 C3 Tha Tien Wat Pho...... 13 D5 Wat Pho Thai Massage School..14 D6 hon tup Wat Phra Kaew...... 15 D4 Che Th SLEEPING 16 Soi Pratu Arun Residence...... 16 D6 Nok Yoong14 6 Chakrabongse Villas...... 17 D6 Soi Penphat T Ibrik Resort...... 18 B3 h

A T r h u ENTERTAINMENT n M 17 a A h National Theatre...... 19 D2 m 11 a a ra

r t See Chinatown & Phahurat Map (pp118–19) Patravadi Theatre...... 20 B3 in BANGKOK TRANSPORT NETWORK 131

Northern & North-Eastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin

Lat Phrao

Mo Chit Bang Seu

Ratchadapisek Kamphoeng Pet

Saphan Kwai

Sulthisan

Samsen Ari Huai Khwang

Sanam Pao

Thailand Cultural Centre

Victory Monument

Rama IX Phayathai Makkasan

Ratchathewi Phetchaburi National Stadium

Siam Chitlom

Hualamphong Ploenchit Nana Ratchadamri Sukhumvit Hualamphong Asoke Samyan

Sala Daeng Silom Phrom Phong Lumphini Queen Sirikit National Convention Chong Nonsi Centre Thong Lor Khlong Toei Saphan Taksin

Surasak Eastern Ekamai Bus Terminal

Phra Khanong

Skytrain On Nut Subway (underground) M a e N Regular Train Line a m C h a o P h r a y a BANGKOK pp120-1; ters King fortheThammayutmonasticsect. ferry ThaPhraAthit) Phra Sumen&ThTanao; males inthe royalfamily,have temporar- been Prince , other aswell asseveral years. King Bhumibolfor several andCrown in fact,hewasthe abbotof WatBowonniwet a royaltraditionby residing here asamonk– Mongkut, founderof began thisminoritysect, niwet hamakut University, at ishoused Buddhistuniversity, second Bangkok’s Ma- ;yf[;iobg;L WAT BOWONNIWET items. devotional with huge Buddhas,monkrobes andother nearby religious-paraphernalia shopsfilled MeuangStroll alongThBamrung pastthe discontinued duringthereign VII. of Rama pole. Many diedtryingandtheritualwas a bagof goldsuspendedfroma15mbamboo swing inever-higher toreach arcsinaneffort tival inhonourof . Participants would formerly hosted Brahmanfes- aspectacular temple is (Vishnu Shrine), dedicated toVishnu. Ganesh; andthesmallerSaanJao Phitsanu Sathan), whichimages contains of Shiva and nearby Hindushrines: ThewaSathaan( Buddha image inthe ofbrother) are inthebase themain contained Mahidol, thecurrent older king’sdeceased VIII(Ananda grade; andtheashesof Rama avoramahavihan, royal-temple thehighest murals. Thewatalsoholdstherankof Rach- ing, bronzes)andcolourful,butdecay- Sukhothai Si Sakayamuni,oneof thelargest surviving gilded bronzeBuddhaimages (includingPhra later reigns, a WatSuthatboasts Iandcompleted in byRama in May. Begun Ceremony who performtheRoyalPloughing is theheadquarters of theBrahmanpriests 20B; into thedominantreligion. This in Thailandanditsritualswere integrated Brahmanism predated thearrivalof Buddhism ;yfl=myLoN!glk(b'(hk &SAOCHING-CHA 113) page from (Continued 132 The spindlyred arch inthe frontof the Suthat’s priestsalsoperformrites attwo h jataka AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights

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door of attractions–photogenic Bangkok’s returned homewithvisionsof European 6300; bounded by Th Ratchawithi, ThU-Thong6300; boundedbyThRatchawithi, Nai&ThRatch- Dainty ;y'l;of=lb^ PARK mendable strolls;rely ortaxis. onbuses areSights spread outanddon’tmake recom- willbeawelcomerelief.Dusit’s quietpoise If you’re fromBangkok-overload, suffering of such EuropeancitiesasParis andLondon. with thewideavenues andmeasured elegance tothisplanneddistrictcomplete the royalseat VmovedIn thenameof modernity,Rama f=lb^ Dusit bhand Posayakrit. mural masterpieces bynationalartistChakra- site of oneof modernThailand’semerging Prachathipatai; donationsaccepted A fairlysubduedneighbourhood ;yf^iumLgmr;i}sk;bski WAT TRITOSATHEP MAHAWARAWIHAN shirts. or sleeveless tothiswat–noshorts properly foradmittance visitors shouldbeparticularlycareful todress of known asWatMai. itsroyalstatus, Because The temple wasfoundedin1826,whenit monkstostudyhere. selected allsend Lanka ily ordainedasmonks.India,NepalandSri other cultural collections. and museum ahouse complex now contains yet anotherhome (ChitladaPalace) and this cient royalcourt. Today thecurrent Kinghas moved thean- here from KoRatanakosin, minor palacesforextended familywere all expression. Theroyalpalace,thronehalland stylesintoauniquely Thai transforming these about castles swimminginhisheadand set within thecomplex. mission totheparkallowsentryallsights Ad- andAncientClothMuseum. Exhibitions HMKingBhumibol PhotographyMuseum, Abhisek DusitThroneHall, RoyalElephant tractions includeVimanmekTeak Mansion, (10.30am and2pmdaily).DusitPark’s at- performances of traditionalThaidancing and gardens,thisisaconvenient placetosee and relaxed. Inadditiontoitsarchitecture ticket; asima; adult/child100/50B,admissionfree withGrandPalace Following Rama V’sEuropeantour,he Following Rama h Dusit Palace Park 9.30am-4pm; bus70,510) (Map (Map pp116-17 ; ; bus12,19,56) is thegirl-next- lonelyplanet.com temple % isthe 0 2628

(Th BANGKOK

133 Wat Bencham- is a prime example 8am-5.30pm; bus 72, 503) bòt h (Map pp116-17 ; , Th U-Thong ; Royal Plaza, Th U-Thong pp116-17 (Map

figure (Marble Temple; Map pp116-17 ; cnr Th Si Ayuthaya & ; cnr Th Si pp116-17 Map (Marble Temple;

exhibits 53 Buddha images (33 originals exhibits 53 Buddha images of a military-garbed leader may seem a military-garbed of like steering the country into the modern age and steering the modern age the country into for preserving Thailand’s independence from is also considered European colonialism. He for his the common person of a champion was built in the late 19th century under Rama 19th century was built in the late cruciform The large V. The base of modern Thai wat architecture. of Phitsanu- a copy of the central Buddha image, contains Chinnarat, the Phuttha lok’s Phra The courtyard behind the Ramaashes of V. bòt famous figures and 20 copies) representing Thailand and other and styles from all over Buddhist countries. Rama V Memorial rit[i}i)xmi'}hk A bronze Nai) building and view rotating exhibits. HM King Bhumibol Photography Exhibitions Near the Th Ratwithi entrance, two residence and photographs of halls display a collection Among the monarch. paintings by the present and children his wife of photos many loving the king play- of also historic pictures are ing clarinet with Benny Goodman and Louis Armstrong in 1960. BENCHAMABOPHIT WAT ;yfg[P&}[rb^iZ;yfg[P&tX Carrara white marble, of Made abophit Th Phra Ram V; admission 20B; Draped in royal vestments, the statue is more statue the more is in royal vestments, Draped Thai the visiting a shrine by as treated or less public. Hall Ananta Samakhom Throne building at the foot The domed neoclassical Royal Plaza is Ananta Samakhomof Throne early 1900s by was built in the which Hall, European gov- in the style of Italian architects today for ceremonial ernment houses. Used the first purposes, hall also hosted the throne the Thai parliament until their meeting of to a facility nearby. meeting place was moved the of the architecture can explore Visitors an unlikely shrine, but Bangkokians are flex- shrine, but Bangkokians are an unlikely devotion. religious of ible in their expression is no forgotten Most importantly, the figure – this is Ramageneral V (King Chulalong- for korn; 1868–1910), who is widely credited

BANGKOK •• Sights (collages made from metallic, (collages Vimanmek was the first permanent build- Vimanmek was the first Compulsory English-language tours last an tours Compulsory English-language Because visitors property, this is royal importance of elephants in Thai history and elephants in Thai importance of explaining their various rankings according The second stable to physical characteristics. a living of holds a sculptural representation at the Chit- elephant (now kept royal white Thai king). home to the current lada Palace, are now a museum. One of the structures the structures now a museum. One of are contains outlining the and photos artefacts ephants – animals whose auspicious albinism automatically made them crown property – Near the Th U-Thong Nai entrance, two Near the Th U-Thong Nai entrance, two el- stables white once housed that three large Royal Elephant Museum Royal Elephant Museum Sirikit. Among the exhibits are cotton and silk, Sirikit. Among the exhibits are málaeng tháp Promotion of Supplementary Occupations Promotion of founda- (SUPPORT) Techniques & Related by Queen sponsored tion, an organisation beetle wings), damascene and multicoloured and basketry. nielloware, The hall houses an excellent display of re- The hall houses an excellent display of the of by members gional handiwork crafted chitecture and Moorish porticoes and Moorish blend to chitecture a striking and distinctly Thai exterior. create Hall is typical of the finer architecture of the the of the finer architecture of is typical Hall ar- Victorian-influenced gingerbread era. Originally built as a throne hall for Rama V Dusit Throne in 1904, the smaller Abhisek Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall Hall Abhisek Dusit Throne hour. Don’t expect to learn a lot on the tours Don’t expect to learn a lot on the tours hour. and laboured is quite as the guide’s English with one another. to overlap tend tours early Ratanakosin and antiques. art objects interior of the mansion contains the per- various of interior of the king and a treasure-trove sonal effects of prisingly serene and intimate atmosphere. and intimate prisingly serene grounds. It serveding on the Dusit Palace as Rama in the early 1900s. The V’s residence lattice work are nothing short of magnificent, magnificent, of nothing short lattice work are a sur- this, the mansion retains of but in spite building. The staircases, octagonal rooms and 1868 and moved to the present site in 1910, in site to the present 1868 and moved mansion three-storey L-shaped, this beautiful contains and 81 rooms, halls and anterooms, golden-teak is said largest to be the world’s Vimanmek Teak Mansion Mansion Teak Vimanmek on Ko Si Chang in Originally constructed should wear long pants (no capri pants) or capri pants) pants (no wear long should with sleeves. shirts long skirts and lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK Confucian shrines. During theannualVege- 19 ; ThCharoenKrung; busy Chinese-style Explore thelabyrinthinepassageways of this ;yf}y'did}]k;kl WAT MANGKON KAMALAWAT inland SiamSquare andSukhumvit. but slow-moving are toget buses needed to andSilom, Banglamphu to KoRatanakosin, Phraya Express connectstheneighbourhood is hindered TheChao bycontinuoustraffic. the river, butgetting inandoutof Chinatown wanderings, especiallyinthetiny and exhilarating.There are endlesspedestrian sin area bytheroyalgovernment. were moved here fromtoday’sKoRatanako- labourers whocametobuildthenewcapital, population,manyof Chinese them Bangkok’s be found.Thedistrictwasbornin1782when used-vinyl-recordguns andeven stores can plastic bagsinanother,handmadesigns,hand rubber-bath-plug stores inoneblock,bulk commerce organised intoguildlike districts– aconfusingandcrowdedarrayofcomprises ‘Yaowarat’ (called after itsmainthoroughfare, ThYaowarat) Chinatown Bangkok’s gpk;ik(ZlegrH'X Chinatown anniversary of themonarch’s death. and isthesite of ahuge celebrationduringthe andbottlesof incense whisky, pink roses), offerings of candles,flowers (predominantly attractsworshippersthat hisstatue whomake are sorevered, especiallybythemiddleclass, labour whencalled).Hisaccomplishments citizenbeavailablement thatevery forstate (therequire-abolition of slavery andcorvée 134 ferry ThaRatchawong) The neighbourhood’s energy isexhausting to save energy byturning offhisradioduring theprimeminister’s weeklyaddress. ‘Poojadkuan’, theThai version ofthe broadcasts. DuringthepeakofThaksin’s unpopularity,aThai satirical newspapercolumncalled popular andtheformer primeminister Thaksin Shinawatraused toholdweeklystate ofthenation where accidents, breakdowns people report andotheroddsights. Politicaltalkshowsare also isacall-inshow (HelpingEachOther) personal storyofmanycabbies. RuamDuayChuuayKan a poorfamilyhavingtosenddevoted childtoBangkok toworkafter their buffalodies–the tions thatplay that are always attheready andinform.The taxidrivers to entertain typicallylisten tothesta- asBangkok,manydrivers’In acityasgridlocked bestfriendisthe radio,broadcastingstations AIRWAVES THE ON AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights tofindBuddhist,Taoist and lûuk thûng h temple 9am-6pm; bus 73, 501, 507, river 9am-6pm; bus73,501,507,river (Neng NoiYee; Map pp118-

, theThai equivalentof country musicinwhichthelyricsoften feature sois Onion along (USparodynewspaper), quoted agrocerwhowished necessities. ing flamboyantBollywoodfabricandother shops sell allkindsofshops sell fabricandclothes.Be- but thrivingIndiandistrict,generally called At thewestern edge of Chinatownis asmall rks=iyf PHAHURAT the early13thcentury. todate from issaid ThetempleBurmese. itself period whenthecitywasundersiege bythe periodorlaterlate intheAyuthaya Sukhothai it frommaraudinghordes,eitherduringthe thatthecoveringrised wasaddedtoprotect theo- within thetemple compound.Ithasbeen a cranewhilebeingmoved toanewbuilding a stuccoorplaster exterior, whenitfell from was ‘discovered’ some40years agobeneath style,theimagein thegracefulSukhothai image, which gleamslike, well,gold.Sculpted sive 5.5-tonne,solid-gold Buddha 3m-tall, Hualamphong, bus53) & ThCharoenKrung;admission20B; Buddha; Map pp118-19 ; The attractionat ;yfw^i}b^i WAT TRAIMIT Lotus Temple. their ancestors. TheThainamemeansDragon lampswithoilandmakingofferingsaltar to fillingtheever-burningpers incense, lighting thistempleor night, ispacked withworship- are centred here. Butalmostanytimeof day Festival,tarian religious andculinaryactivities river ferry ThaSaphanPhut) river Market streets, inthebowelsof the blocks, is hind themore obviousshopfronts alongthese & ThChakraphet) Phahurat

(Map (Map pp118-19 &ThChakraphet;bus73, ; ThPhahurat

(Map (Map pp118-19 ofThPhahurat ; aroundintersection . Here, dozensof Indian-owned isundoubtedly theimpres- Wat Traimit % , anendlessbazaarsell- 0 22259775;cnrThYaowarat h

(Temple oftheGolden (Temple lonelyplanet.com 9am-5pm; subway Phahurat Phahurat BANGKOK . 135 Jim Thompson Thompson Jim 8am-7pm; Skytrain Chitlom) by William Warren, by William Warren, h (papaya salad) because of his brief (papaya salad) because of his brief (San ; Map pp128-9 ; cnr Th Ratchadamri; cnr & pp128-9 (San Phra Phrom; Map FORTUNE’S FOLLOWERS FORTUNE’S FOLLOWERS because to Thailand Some people travel but oth- they want a tan or an adventure, ers know that fortune is fond of the Land of Smiles and come for a slice of luck. Of the many auspicious outposts, Lak Muang (City reputation ) has an impressive p110 Pillar; for wiping away misfortune and strengthen- Cheaper ing the powers of -making. than a financial consultant, Wat Arun and many granted ) have p108 KaewWat Phra ( for wealth and prosperity. Some requests joke Buddha likes that the Emerald even sôm-tam trouble with merit-making The exile in Laos. is that fortune slow and subtle, but is often for fast the Erawan Shrine has a reputation of the request. action, regardless Thompson’s story doesn’tThompson’s end with his in- Erawan Hotel (torn down to make way for the way for make (torn down to Erawan Hotel the developers Apparently structure). current Airvata, the original Erawan (named after of is an excellent book on Thompson, his ca- is an excellent book on and subsequent intriguing residence reer, disappearance. ERAWAN SHRINE Lk]ritris} commerce and of A seamless merging the day at this bustling of at all hours occurs shrine Th Ploenchit; admission free; the Grand Hyatt corner of Claiming a spare deity the four-headed Erawan hotel, the Hindu god of represents Phrom) (Phra built to ward off and was originally creation the first bad luck during the construction of his personal belongings are also on display on display also are belongings his personal main house.in the Bangkok’s as for- best-adapted formal reign walk in the While out for an afternoon eigner. in Malaysia Cameron western Highlands of disappeared. mysteriously 1967, Thompson in the was murdered That same year his sister theories. various conspiracy USA, fuelling Business rivals? Or Was it communist spies? theory – The most recent a man-eating tiger? some hard is apparently there for which evidence was – has it that the silk magnate truck by a Malaysian accidentally run over who hid his remains. driver The Unsolved Mystery, 9am- the the h Jim Thomp- Sri Gurusingh 9am-5pm; bus 53, 9am-5pm; h 0 2216 7368, 0 2215 0122; , a large Sikh temple , a large % Guru Granth Sahib, Guru Granth taxis provide easy access to easy taxis provide BANGKOK •• Sights (Map pp128-9 ;

khlong (Map pp118-19 ; Th Phahurat; pp118-19 (Map

Born in Delaware in 1906, Thompson was in 1906, Born in Delaware

A tireless promoter of traditional Thai traditional Thai of promoter A tireless In an alley offIn an alley is Th Chakraphet has its exterior side facing the house’s has its exterior interior, His thus exposing the wall’s bracing system. art collection and small but splendid Asian arts and culture, Thompson also collected Thompson also collected arts and culture, Thai homes in cen- various derelict parts of tral Thailand and had them reassembled in location in 1959. One striking their current wall from tradition is the way each departure building a steady worldwide clientele. clientele. worldwide building a steady business sense;business he sent samples to fashion gradually houses in Milan, London and Paris, and returned to Bangkok. His neighbours’ to Bangkok. His neighbours’ and returned handmade silk caught his eye and piqued his of the CIA) in Thailand during WWII. Fol- the CIA) of lowing the war he found New York too tame the Office of Strategic Servicesthe Office Strategic of (forerunner acter who created an international appetite appetite an international who created acter for Thai silk. who briefly serveda New York architect in Asian art. Another hook is the home’s former Asian owner, Jim Thompson, a compelling char- is also a museum-quality preservation of and Southeast architecture Thai residential 5pm, compulsory tours (English & French) every5pm, compulsory tours (English & French) 10min; Skytrain National Stadium, bus 73, 508, khlong taxi to Ratchathewi) Th Phra Ram I, Soi Kasem San 2; adult/child 100/50B; A pretty place to pass some time, time, place to pass some A pretty most attractions here. most attractions here. JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE [hko&b}mv}xNlyo wooden shacks and drying laundry. Skytrain and wooden shacks and the former lifeblood of the neighbourhood: soot- the neighbourhood: of former lifeblood Khlong Saen Saeb, lined with rickety coloured son’s House scape of Siam Square’s teeming commercial commercial teeming Siam Square’s scape of Back the modern façade is the zone. behind xm=};yo!xit^)oµk the land- dominate shopping centres Boxy Siam Square & Pratunam Siam Square & Pratunam of the religion’s 10 great teachers. Reportedly Reportedly teachers. 10 great the religion’s of Sikh temple second-largest is the the temple but they welcome, are Visitors outside India. their shoes. must remove to the worship of the of to the worship reminiscent of a mosque interior, devoted devoted interior, a mosque of reminiscent Sabha lonelyplanet.com 16th-century Sikh16th-century is itself holy book, which last a ‘living’ guru and the to be considered 73, river Tha Saphan Phut) ferry BANGKOK residents. Thesliver of landthatbuffers Th andsmellsofsights itsIndianandMuslim Krung,thearearoen becomesspicedwiththe restaurants. As ThSilomapproaches Th Cha- hotels, officetowers andwining-and-dining ist attractionsscattered amongitscorporate district, ThSilomhasonlyafew daytimetour- Forming theartery of financial Bangkok’s lu]}! ]=}rbou Silom &Lumphini hand foranimpromptuperformance. musicians anddancers, whoare alwayson may return totheshrinecommission the Worshippers whohave hadawishgranted it gainedareputation forgrantingwishes. was later adopted bythe laycommunityas delayed thehotel construction.Theshrine mishaps serious Brahman shrineafter several cided toreplace itwiththemore impressive erected butde- atypicalThai spirithouse Indra’s three-headed elephantmount)first 136 Th Ramindra; Th Ramindra; Phraya Express ThaChang) exhibition spacewithinaconceptmall. 99/2 ThTiamruammit; student and faculty work. student andfaculty work. as wellinternational artists. tronage are displayed at this new and tidy museum, walking distance from Th Khao San. distancefromThtronage are Khao displayedatthisnewandtidymuseum,walking galleries, seetheboxed text onp176. intheEnglish-languagepressadvertised andonlineatwww.rama9.org. Foralistofcommercial range fromconventional anddisplayawiderangeofmedia. toavant-garde Rotating exhibitsare The noncommercialgalleriesandexhibitionspaceslisted hereporary languageofmodernart. into thepresent timetoseehowtheseinherited techniques are beingadapted tothecontem- traditionsoftempleAfter muralsandreligious Thailand’s artistic surveying sculpture, fastforward EXHIBITIONISTS BANGKOK’S art, culture andconversation.art, inalternative working andexperimentalmedia. ThaiCutting-edge artists h one ofthefew venues toadmire thegracefullinesof3-Dart. sculpture, This private notitscanvases,holdthetruepromise ofThai is collection modernart. Thai Campus, Th Rama IV; Thai Campus,ThRama Skytrain Thonglortored soibus) Th Phayathai; AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights Qens Gallery Queen’s Tadu Contemporary Art Gallery Play Silpakorn University Gallery Art About Studio/AboutCafé Bangkok Sculpture Center Bangkok University Gallery Art CentreChulalongkorn Art 10am-7pm Thu-Tue; taxitoThaPhanFah) bus2,511,512,khlong h h by appointment10am-4pm2nd/4thSatofeachmonth) 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat;SkytrainSiam) 9am-7pm Mon-Fri,

(Map pp122-3; (Map h

(Map pp120-1; (Map Knownastheprimaryuniversity forpainting,thiscampusgallerydisplays 10am-6pm Mon-Sat;subway ThailandCulturalCentre) h 9am-7pm) Urban art, including manga and graffiti, gets an artistic salute atthis includingmangaandgraffiti,getsanartistic Urbanart,

(Map pp114-15; (Map %

( (Map pp128-9; (Map % (Map pp118-19; (Map 0 2714 7888; Playground!, 2nd fl, Soi 55, Th Sukhumvit; 0 27147888;Playground!,2ndfl,Soi55,ThSukhumvit; % 0 25590505;www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org; PM CenterCo,SoiNuanchan, This art university excelsinmixed-media This art exhibits.

(Map pp114-15; (Map

(Map p130; (Map 0 2281 5360; www.queengallery.org; 101 Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; 0 22815360;www.queengallery.org;101Th Ratchadamnoen % % % 0 26452473;www.tadu.net; 7thfl,BarcelonaMotorsBldg, 0 22182964;7thfl,LibraryBldg,ChulalongkornUniversity, % 0 2623 1742; 418 Th Maitrichit; subwayHualamphong) 0 26231742;418ThMaitrichit; % Hindu deities,toppedbyagold-plated cop- is astacked façadeof intertwined, full-colour a stillthrivingethnicenclave, themaintemple the 1860sbyTamil immigrantsinthecentre of Chong Nonsi) Silom &ThPan; donationsaccepted; temple As flourishingasitisflamboyant,this ;yfritLiu}skv=}kgm;u Z;yfc*dlu]}X SRI MARIAMMAN TEMPLE provide sometransportrelief. Skytrain, subwayandChaoPhraya Express fic isnotoriousinthispartof town,butthe marketcomplementary of pirated goods.Traf- a raunchy circusof go-go bars andanoddly neighbourhood of tributary buildings andluxuryhotels nowoccupythis kok’s shipping heyday.CrumblingVictorian ternational mercantiledistrictduringBang- Krungfromtheriver wasthein- Charoen 0 26236120;31ThNaPhraLan; Silom’s mostfamousattractionisPatpong, 0 23503626,26717526;3rdfl,Bldg9,KluayNam Major names in the modern-art scene, Majornamesinthemodern-art

(Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi; Map Umathewi; Map (Wat PhraSiMaha pp124-5 ; cnrTh Modernpainters receiving royal pa- visuallyleapsoff theblock.Builtin Many art criticsbelieve thatThai Manyart Majorcentre forexperimental h h sois h lonelyplanet.com 9am-4pm; Chao 6am-8pm; Skytrain 10am-11pm; . Hindu Hindu

BANGKOK

mu- 137 milkings 10am-5pm . Founded h (Map pp124-5 ;

or to stroll European-educated European-educated 0 2286 8185; Soi 7/Phra Phinij, Th % 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat & Sun; h (Map pp124-5 ;

0 2252 0161; cnr Th Phra Ram IV & Th Henri Dunant; admis- Tourists are welcome to view the welcome to view Tourists are in 1923, the snake farm prepares antivenin antivenin farm prepares in 1923, the snake – common cobra, king snakes from venomous pit viper, green cobra, banded krait, Malayan This facility was pit viper and Russell’s viper. (the its kind in the world only the second of was in Brazil). first (11am & 2.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am Sat & Sun) kept are the snakes the small garden where to be tend The snakes cages. in escape-proof times. during nonperformance camera-shy HOUSE M R KUKRIT PRAMOJ [hkos}jv}ik(;'LN %@d+mTç xikF}( Mom RatchawongAuthor and statesman in this charming once resided Kukrit Pramoj Thai house now open to the public as a seum morning, vendors set up tables to dispense vendors morning, health considered blood and bile, snake fresh with the evening’s reawakens tonics. The park – aerobics classes collec- cooler temperatures soundtrack. to a techno sweat tively SNAKE FARM l$koglk;#k towards carni- to gravitate farms tend Snake valesque rather than humanitarian, except at Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute % sion 70B; & Silom) Skytrain Sala Daeng, subway Samyan Sat & Sun; Skytrain Chong Nonsi). Narathiwat Rachananakharin; admission 50B; but devoutly Thai, M R Kukrit surrounded

khàek is the 5am-8pm; h (t’ai chi). Also in the (t’ai chi). (Map p127 ; Th Phra Ram IV, btwn p127 (Map

BANGKOK •• Sights taijiquan

Lumphini Park These celebrations have since been replaced with trepidation after the 2006 New Year’s Eve Eve the 2006 New Year’s after with trepidation replaced since been celebrations have These

Call us worrywarts but when the West hears news of a government overthrow, we think blood, we think blood, overthrow, us worrywartsCall government but when the West hears news of a or so coups the dozen Through is not necessarily the case in Thailand. This guts and tanks. in bloodshed or civil unrest. resulted have since 1932, few has experienced d’etat that Thailand the motives within the political ranks and unravelling is orchestrated In most cases, the ouster In the case of the 2006 coup, deposed prime minister being one of them. and players requires of democracy was met in the capital that the overthrow Shinawatra was so unpopular Thaksin with initial jubilation. Bangkokians guarded the brought food and flowers to the soldiers who a photo-op military occupation of the city became with soldiers pos- The buildings. government the city’s Even in military fatigues. dressed ing with families and babies, many of whom were go-go dancers showed their support an outdoor performance by staging of the troops near the banned by the coup leadership. show was later An encore military checkpoints. political side pointed had assembled. Each feuding revellers spots where several bombings targeted 2007 a southern ’bandit’ had the finger at the other and each side looked guilty. But by February or sophisticated has grown more been nabbed, suggesting either that the southern insurgency fall guy. is a convenient that the southern insurgency COUP D’PARTY Thais call this temple Wat Khaek Wat – Thais call this temple

One of the best times to visit the park is be- the One of

fore 7am when the air is fresh (well, relatively relatively (well, 7am when the air is fresh fore Thai-Chineseso for Bangkok) and legions of practising are LUMPHINI PARK PARK LUMPHINI l;o]=}rbou birth in place of the Buddha’s Named after Nepal, in Thailand don’t appreciate the term. in Thailand don’t appreciate you don’t particularly want as permanent resi- you don’t particularly want living permanently dents; hence most Indians descent. The literal translation is ‘guest’, an descent. The literal people a group of obvious euphemism for is a colloquial expression for people of Indian people of for is a colloquial expression the Indian residents. Christian Asian can worship here – Thai and here can worship Christian Asian Chinese devotees come to pray and offer bright-yellow marigold garlands alongside terior wall sit rows of Shiva, Vishnu and other Shiva, of wall sit rows terior Buddhas, so as well as a few Hindu deities, any non-Muslim, non-Judaeo- that just about on the left is her other son, elephant-headed her other son, elephant-headed on the left is the left in- Along Phikkhanet (Ganesh). Phra known as Shakti, Shiva’s consort); her son Phra her son Phra consort); Shiva’s known as Shakti, Khanthakuman is on the right; (Subramaniam) per dome. In the centre of the main shrine the main of In the centre per dome. (Uma Devi, Umathewi also Maha Mae is Jao lonelyplanet.com bus 13, 505, Skytrain Sala Daeng, subway Lumphini) Th Withayu & Th Ratchadamri; admission free; best way to escape Bangkok without leaving best way to escape Bangkok without leaving and artificial lake a large paths, town. Shady blot out the roaring swept lawns temporarily towers. traffic and hulking concrete BANGKOK Society, thepublisherof therenowned operated by andshares spacewiththeSiam is Thismuseum a traditionalwoodenhouse. chores,day household of allwithinthesetting displays of dailyrituals,folkbeliefs andevery- ern Thaivillage complete withinformative KamthiengBan transportsvisitors toanorth- adult/child 100/50B; ThSukhumvit; 2661 6470;SiamSociety,131SoiAsoke/Asoke, engaging An [hko%egmÎp' BAN KAMTHIENG option. The Skytrainistheprimarypublic-transport concentration of hotels here) thansightseeing. (asthereing andperhaps sleeping isahigh More timewillbespenthere eating,drink- branch off thismarathon-runningstreet. neighbourhoods expat Executive-strength l=*=};bm Sukhumvit prime minister of Thailand. as authored more than 150booksandserved mate introductiontotheformerresident, who guided tourisrecommended foramore inti- books andlotsof headyconversations. A traditional teak buildings,Thaiart,Western withthebestofhimself bothworlds:five 138 nearby dessert-making shops. The Sunday toursoperatednearby dessert-making by person; three hours);theseoutings spend1½hoursontheislandand theremaining timevisiting Luang toPak Kret andboardthecross-river ferry toKoKret. (accessible viaChaoPhraya bus33from Sanam Youcanalsotake Express boatheadingnorth). dance performances. is apopularThai outing withlotsoffoodvendors, tackysouvenir stallsandeven traditional too content toscratchthemselves. OnweekdaysKoKret That is,ifyouvisitduringtheweek. tothosefiercesoidogsareconsist oftwomotorcycles,andthecounterparts nowlazycreatures island provides afascinatingcontrastto theBigMango’sstreetlife –KoKret’s rushhourmay known simplyas‘WatMon’,containsaMon-stylemarbleBuddha. Aleisurely strollaroundthe fax 022253002; adult/child500/250B; precision inopen-airstudios. circumnavigate theislandare smallpottery shopsbehind whichthepotters workwithrelaxed madefromlocalKoKrettion ofhand-thrownearthenware, clay.Alongthenarrowfootpathsthat centuries AD.The potters, Monare andKoKret alsoskilled continuestheculture’s ancienttradi- of Monpeople,whowere thedominantculture incentralThailand betweenthe6thand10th edge.Nam ChaoPhraya, ItishometooneofThailand’s atBangkok’snorthern oldestsettlements withahalf-daygetawayto Soothe yournerves BANGKOK’S ISLANDGETAWAY AGO • Sgt BANGKOK ••Sights Alternatively, fromTha Nonthaburi(100Bper you canjoinoneofthelong-tailtoursthat depart Current options from Bangkokincludehiringalong-tailboattheTha Nonthaburi transport Beside thelong-tailboatpier,aMonBuddhisttemple called house museum h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat;SkytrainAsoke)

Mp pp122-3; (Map h 9am-3.30pm) Journal % 0 , depart from Tha Maharat. depart Ko Kret tional designers toeducate burgeoning Thai hence thename. Withinthestiltbuildings Sawanandbeforekhon thata lettucefarm– the residence of PrincessChumbonof Na- thatwasonce ditional woodenThaihouses Phayathai, bus63,504) admission100B; Ratchaprarop; pp116-17; (Map treasure, overlooked An ;y'l;ozyddkf WANG SUAN PHAKKAT Greater Bangkok handicrafts. Vivienne Westwoodandprofiles of regional costume displaysbyformerpunk-queen creatives. exhibitshave Rotating included Phrom Phong) vit; free admission; .tcdc.or.th; ShoppingCenter,ThSukhum- 6thfl,Emporium this new andModern designisalltherage inBangkok THAILAND CREATIVE &DESIGNCENTER is sponsored bytheroyalfamily). (outside thepoliticalsphere, sincethesociety thing you’dwanttoknowabout Thailand is opentovisitors titlesonany- andcontains traditional Thaiculture. Areference library of the Siam Society , acar-free islandinthemiddleofMae Chao Phraya Express museum invites retrospectives of interna- % h Wat Paramai Yikawat 0 2245 4934; Th Sri Ayuthaya,nearTh 0 22454934;ThSri Mp pp122-3; (Map

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12, 53, 503, 508, 512, Chao Phraya Express Tha Tien) 12, 53, 503, 508, 512, Chao Phraya Express is Th Sanamchai; 2221 3686; Soi Penphat, for massages tend to stay fixed: about 250B about to stay tend for massages fixed: 500B for a full body and for a foot massage massage. seuses the country deployed across who are the main path, but don’t be deterred by a by a the main path, but don’t be deterred vice- masseuse them have petite – many of grip strength. a vital part of preventative health care and health care preventative a vital part of regularly more parlours massage they frequent no trouble finding a than gyms. You’ll have shop (rather, they’ll find you), but massage hangars, backpacker visits to the a few after focused, professional you may want a more off A good sign is a small shop experience. Traditional Massage Traditional Massage traditional massage as Bangkokians regard ACTIVITIES the only surviving in Ayuthaya-era temple are architecture both the murals and which a As the same period with no renovations. of and painting unit, architectural single, ‘pure’ important quite for the study it’s considered Ayuthaya art. late of temple h betweenmurals painted 1657 and 1707. It is Close to the Bangkok side of the river, this Close the river, to the Bangkok side of WAT CHONG NONSI CHONG NONSI WAT ;yf(jv' oomiupN dhas, including a beautiful late U Thong–style late dhas, including a beautiful image. sat in a monastery compound on Mae Nam sat compound on Mae in a monastery Larger Ayuthaya. just south of Chao Phraya, the com- the front of at structures residential Hindu Khmer-style plex contain of displays and , Ban Chiang ceramics and Bud- historic collection of interesting a very daily Ayuthaya life. The building originally The building originally life. daily Ayuthaya of the complex, dates from the Ayuthaya the Ayuthaya from the complex, dates of gold-leaf features period and oasis complete with ducks, swans and a semi- with ducks, swans and oasis complete enclosed garden. are displays of art, antiques and furnishings, furnishings, and art, antiques of displays are a peaceful are grounds landscaped and the lonelyplanet.com Ramayana are also massage pavilions inside the temple inside the temple pavilions massage also are complex. BANGKOK (also called Central Pier),neartheSaphan (also calledCentral and formostsouthbound boatsisThaSathon most northbound boatsisThaNonthaburi % attractions isthe or boarding. before dock andboattoclose disembarking heart’ boat handspleadtothecrowdkeep a‘cool muddy water intoaboil.Ateach pier,the from onebanktoanother,kickingupthe to pointsupriver, boatsricochet orlong-tail tery artery. Hulkingbarges transportsand Phraya Thailand’swa- isajourneythrough jâo náam past, whenThaisstillconsidered themselves and provide intothe afascinatingglimpse ples remain oriented towardslife onthewater areas andtem- manyhomes,tradinghouses toricebarges.from paddledcanoes Inthese ofand thecanalsisamotleyfleet watercraft, city’s conveyance of choice. Alongtheriver the motorvehicle haslongsincebecomethe are though today,even the East’ stillevident of pastasthe‘VeniceGlimpses Bangkok’s of River &CanalTrips faceliftsandexercise programmes. selling, acupuncture, hydrotherapy,nutritionalcoun- a textbook menuof possibletreatments from niques andcosmeticsurgery. Thecentre has alternative medicinewithrelaxation tech- new generation of spasmerging Bangkok treatments from1000B;SkytrainPloenchit) pp128-9; phatic system? Thenheadto clear-up persistent acne,orflush outthelym- 140 The best way to commute between riversideThe bestwaytocommute between An explorationof theMae NamChao wrinklelines, erase weight, tolose Need at all. BangkokNoi,whichis notacanalKhlong course oftheriver hasbeendemoted to to aidnonmotorised vessels. The original versity, required thedigging ofashortcut day sightsofWatAruntoThammasat Uni- tricky bendintheriver, from thepresent- sailing shipstotradewithAyuthaya. One a phenomenonthatenabledocean-going nal tidethatisfelt asfar180kmupriver, Mae NamChaoPhraya experiencesadiur- RIVER SURGERY 0 2623 6001; tickets 10-27B) 0 26236001;tickets AGO • Atvte BANGKOK ••Activities (jai yen) % (water lords). 0 22531010;www.smedspa.com; ThWithayu; and allow the gap between andallowthegapbetween Chao Phraya Express Chao Phraya . Theterminus for S Medical Spa S Medical , partof the Mp p183; (Map

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the RoyalBarges Wat NationalMuseum, boat tours alongtheriver such tosights as ery, includingorchid farms. Yai,Bangkok offers more typicalcanalscen- like beautifulmaidens. iphon the main Fine gold-and-black lacquerworkadorning fall of Ayuthaya. He wasassassinated in1782. orderinthekingdomafterestablished the of KingTaksin, theThaigeneral whore- theashes is thehometoastupathatcontains Bangkok. temple paintingsin thebestsurviving these gious muralists.Arthistoriansconsider by twoof foremost earlyBangkok’s reli- 19th-century contains BangkokNoi; Charoen Sanitwong,Khlong naram lovely leafyscenery. Noi functional canals,including travel. See p182 formore informationabout boat run asfarsouthWatRatchasingkhon. Taksin someboats although Skytrainstation, or to other nationalities through awaitingor toother nationalitiesthrough and theUK, New Zealand tralia, Canada, a membership gym opentocitizensof Aus- h 189 ThSurawong;fitnesscentre .britishclubbangkok.org; establishment. policiesvaryper feesoffer but these day-use centres andswimmingpools.Somehotels ship gymsandtop-endhotels have fitness to anair-conditioned facility.Mostmember- this energy-sucking access climate, youneed If you’re of dedicated tothecause athleticsin Sports Facilities per person. quote rates forchartering theboatandothers in mindyoucanrequest it.Someoperators routes, butifyouhave aspecificdestination boat pierandmostoperators have tour set atevery fees. There are othersimilarservices excluding admission andvariousmooring costs 700Bfortheentire boatforonehour, Arun andintotheThonburicanals.Itusually ChaoPaya Mit Mon Khlong Yai, Bangkok Along Khlong WatIntharam Noi, Bangkok Along Khlong Across theriver inThonburiare several British Club British and 6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 6am-9pm Sat&Sun) 6am-10pm Mon-Fri, tree, which bears fruitsthatare shaped

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There are There available. and lodging packages public boats that run from Tha Chang to Bang to commuter is pegged but their schedule Yai and is not always reliable. hours noen Klang; class 1000B) cooking and also offers restaurant vegetarian two half-day are There courses. sessions that and preparation include a visit to the market The menu differs 10 dishes. a whopping of between classes. the morning and afternoon % Surasak) class 3300B; Skytrain 233 Th Sathon Tai; the cooking schools. of the most gourmet ered The half-day sessions to introduce students and ingredients. techniques Thai cooking sessionThe morning a trip to the includes market. course US$120) and hands-on work under the direc- lectures settingThe intimate well-known chefs. tion of housein a traditional Thai-style adds to the a your money’s worth pick but to get charm, than complex dishes more menu that covers basic tion sessions (7am, 1pm and 6pm) based on 2659 9000; OrientalHotel, Soi 38/ Oriental, Th Charoen Krung; Trok Talat Talat Talat ; p161 ), p161 ; 8 ( ; Leng Noi 9 ( and the venerable and the venerable Hong Kong Noodles at Th Yommarat Sukhum. soi BANGKOK •• Courses gold shop, which are both more more both are which gold shop, , where you’ll take a left on to a you’ll take , where , the new market where you’ll where , the new market Bangkok Bank (3) Bangkok Bank Wat Mangkon Kamalawat , Chinatown’s two-centuries-old mar- , Chinatown’s two-centuries-old From Trok Itsaranuphap, continue to Th After about 100m, Sampeng Lane about 100m, After crosses Cross the next major intersection, Th Th intersection, next major the Cross Continue walking another 60m or so to Continue walking another wives or wannabe master chefs. chefs. master or wannabe wives Bangkok has several different types of pro- Bangkok has several types of different expat house- grammes aimed at backpackers, One of the best ways to crack Thailand’s to crack Thailand’s the best ways One of a cooking course. lengthy menu is to take kok’s continuing education syllabus. kok’s continuing education syllabus. Cooking Culture and cooking courses dominate Bang- dominate and cooking courses Culture tingly beside a coffin shop. COURSES the bend in the road to return to Th Charoen the bend in the road to return midblock, this tour ends fit- Krung. About mination of the mination of Chai and follow Phla Turn right on to Th Phla Work your way back to Trok Itsaranuphap and continue past funerary stalls to the ter- temples. Along this stretch of Th Charoen of Along this stretch temples. incense sell and Krung, shops , cakes, at the temple. ritual burning paper for offering Charoen Continue for Krung, and turn left. 20m to grumble, stop in at the alley. on the left side of or, as is sometimes the case, half alive and or, as is sometimes the case, half alive the belly food makes If uncooked half filleted. find all manner and size of freshwater and freshwater find all manner and size of – or filleted alive and shellfish, saltwater fish Yaowarat, Chinatown’s main thoroughfare, Chinatown’s main thoroughfare, Yaowarat, Cross the road to lined with gold shops. Leng-Buai-la (7) and liveliest Chinatown’s largest one of Yee), delicacies. Down the lane on your rightdelicacies. Down the lane is Kao (6) action runs from 4am to 11am, The real ket. and you’ll only find slick sidewalks any later rubbish. and piles of wider lane past rows of vendors selling huge vendors wider lane past rows of and other fried pork skins, dried fish bags of Itsaranuphap (5) than 100 years old and are classic examples of examples of classic old and are than 100 years early Ratanakosin architecture. buildings, a To KangTang (4) Th Mangkon. On either side of the intersec- of On either side Th Mangkon. Bangkok’soldest commercial two of tion are the river for goods bound for the international international for goods bound for the the river markets. mals and books of stickers. Sampeng was was Sampeng stickers. of and books mals in 1782 near built centre a trading originally lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK and culturalretreat ismore relaxed thanthe for themoderately mindful.Thismeditation www.houseofdhamma.com; 26/9Soi15,ThLatPrao;Skytrain instructors). of English (of the monksandmeditation plications, sizeof monastery andproficiency org such asinstructionsonap- for details centresThai meditation atwww.dhammathai. of month.Alsovisittheonlineguideto every onthefirst Sunday classes hosts meditation aguidetomediationcentreswhich sells and Park) besideBenjasiri .wfb-hq.org; Soi24,ThSukhumvit, of Buddhists the kok andbeyond,contact centres orteachers withEnglish skillsinBang- tion of Thailand. operation withtheYoungBuddhistsAssocia- aswellweekend retreatsmeditation inco- monthly introductioncourses tovipassana ern suburbsof Thecentre Bangkok. hosts Mo Chit) nect visitors toThaihandicrafts. peace,andcultureand achieving con- classes Meditation focusonrelieving stress classes centrea meeting forcorporate team-building. strict temple environmentandisoften as used 5,KoKret) prateep.com; 53/3Mu boat. long-tail sion. Thewatcanalsobereached bychartered totheheadmonkornunforpermis- can talk If interested inresiding atthetemple, you order toattain through concentration The emphasisisondeveloping are often peoplearoundwhocaninterpret. teacher usuallyspeakssomeEnglish andthere are heldtwiceaday(8.30amand6pm).The foreigners over theyears. Meditation classes phans hundreds of monksandnunsreside during bus103,504,509) Thai, PhasiCharoen,Thonburi; on variousaspectsof Buddhism. whichCentre, hoststwice-monthlylectures plex istheInternational BuddhistMeditation available tointerpret. Withinthetemple com- often Western monksorlong-term residents centre, speaksflawless English, andthere are plication. Phra Suphe,themonkwhoruns also available; juststopbyandfilloutanap- Accommodation forlong-termis meditation satipatthana 144 For more informationabout meditation Baan DvaraPrateep Wat Pak Nam House ofDhamma AGO • Cuss BANGKOK ••Courses ǎ is a meditation centre isameditation inthenorth- a (BuddhistLent) nimitta

(WFB; Map (WFB; Map pp122-3 ; (foundationsof mindfulness).

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% (state of (state ‘absorption’). 0 18455445;www.baandvara isaperfect solution , % hashosted many % 0 24670811;ThThoet World Fellowship 0 26611284;www % 0 25110439; , where , running campsouthof Bangkok. Samut Prakan; tuitionperday400B) Samut Prakan; 3,SoiButhamanuson,ThThaeparak,Bangpli, .com; 99/5Mu camps foranextracharge. Thewebsite www expertise), which canbecompletedexpertise), in120 course (consistingofmental three of levels Thai Council.Theinstitute offers afunda- associated withtherespected WorldMuay Th Prachatipat,Pathum 6400B) Thani;tuitionfor1stlevel ThaiStadium,336/932 Muay .muaythai-institute.net; Rangsit San. fromThKhao sweating distance foreign studentsof bothgenders; thegymis tuition perday/month400/8000B) Map pp120-1 ; on trainingcamps. loadsof.muaythai.com contains information modation are usuallyprovided at accept menandwomen.Foodaccom- camps provide instructioninEnglish and English-speaking fighters. Thefollowing country are theirprogrammesfor tailoring past five years andmanycampsallover the foreigners has increased inpopularitythe in Training Muay Thai see p58 ; fortemple etiquette, see p42 . termediate and advanced)of Thai-language Siam) ChulalongkornUniversity,Th Phayathai;Skytrain ulty ofArts, pp128-9; (Map then advancingtospeakingandreading. focusing onlistening andcomprehension and natural language acquisitionof children, first scale. onthe Theteaching methodisbased that canbecompleted withinaslidingtime- consisting of 200hours worthof classtime ing institutes intheworld.There are 10levels is oneof thelargest English-language teach- run bytheAmericanUniversity Alumniand tuitionperhr102B;SkytrainRatchadamri) Ratchadamri; pp128-9; Map AlumniLanguage Centre University American Thai Language&Culture the teachers andstudentsatwork. of International Airport,andwatch Bangkok pointment tovisitthefacility,which isnorth and judges. Ifyou’re interested, make anap- days, aswellcourses forinstructors, referees Muay Thai Institute Thai Muay &Homestay Boxing Jitti’s GymThai For backgroundinformationonBuddhism, Chulalongkorn University’s Intensive Thai Office Thai Intensive Chulalongkorn University’s Fairtex Muay Thai Thai Muay Fairtex offers three different (basic,in- levels % % % muay thai 0 22823551;13SoiKrasab,ThChakraphong; 0 22528170;www.auathai.com;179Th 0 22184640;www.inter.chula.ac.th; Fac- ( % Mp p187; (Map

0 27575147;www.fairtexbkk specialises intraining specialises (Thaiboxing) for isapopular,long- % lonelyplanet.com 0 29920096;www

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9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; Skytrain 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) h h 0 2245 3008; 85 Soi Ratchataphan/Mo admission Leng; 8am-5pm; bus 18, 510) Children’s Discovery Museum Siam Ocean World Dusit Zoo Bangkok Doll Factory & Museum www.siamoceanworld.co.th; basement, Siam Paragon, Th Phra Siam Paragon, basement, www.siamoceanworld.co.th; Ram I; adult/child 450/280B; world has been underwater re-created massive aquarium. Gaze into at this shopping-centre as kid’s play. Most activities are geared to to geared as kid’s play. Most activities are is also There children. early elementary–aged the at the back of playground a toddler-aged Weekend Chatuchak main building. Opposite Market V, btwn Th Ratwithi & Th Sri Ayuthaya; adult/child 100/50B; h and 800 birds, including relatively 200 reptiles gaur, as banteng, species such indigenous rare serow and some rhinoceros. The facilities are but if nothing else, the zoo is a nice a bit tired, the city away from the noiseplace to get of and observe how Thai people amuse them- shady are – mainly by eating. There selves paddle with in the centre grounds plus a lake also a small children’s There’s boats for hire. playground. baby. Blonde-headed children will get even will get baby. Blonde-headed children will all ages of and children attention, more with affection and treats. be showered % free; Thai dolls, both new and traditional tion of hard to find: This museumantique. is really via Th Si Ayuthaya heading east. approach past the intersec- under the expressway Cross tion with Th Ratchaprarop the and take Follow this windy the post office. the right of until you start seeingstreet signs. Th Kamphaeng2615 7333; Chatuchak Park, Phet 4; adult/child 70/50B; Mo Chit, subway Chatuchak Park) There are two basic level courses: general mas- level two basic general courses: are There level The advanced sage massage. and foot or and healing massage therapeutic covers of Some knowledge oil and aromatherapy. Thai will ease barrier the communication these is outside The school courses. in all of Bangkok in a restored compound the temple shophouse. BANGKOK FOR CHILDREN yourself into Thai culture? Want to ingratiate The along as passports. Bring your children in Thailand that even the family is so revered will warm to a fat taxi driver most aloof caged exhibits of more than 300 mammals, more exhibits of caged 0 % of- 0 2221 0 2214 is gen- % % , located , located (Map pp128- (Map

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is a favourite of expat profession- of is a favourite offers basic and advanced courses in basic and advanced courses offers 0 2218 4862; www.inter.chula.ac.th; Faculty of Arts, Faculty 0 2218 4862; www.inter.chula.ac.th;

Pro Language Chulalongkorn’s Thai Studies Center

Union Language School Siri Thai Pattana Language School % hours available in five- to 10-day increments. to 10-day increments. in five- available hours Tha Tien) course comprises each traditional massage; 30 Wat Pho Thai Massage School Soi Phenphat 1, 392/25-28 3686; www.watpomassage.com; Th Maharat; tuition from 6500B; Thai Massage Thai Massage and communication-oriented methodologies and communication-oriented modules. in 80-hour, four-week rigorous courses (many missionaries study (many missionaries study rigorous courses structure- of Union employs a balance here). Phayathai; tuition from 6000B; Skytrain Ratchathewi) the best and most as having erally recognised 6033; www.unionlanguage.com; 7th fl, 328 CCT Office Bldg, Th asking questions, giving opinions, business Thai, and the like. which involves studying examples of Thai Thai studying examples of involves which thematically designed: Classes are literature. as preparation for the as preparation ficiency exam). ance Bldg, 13 Th Sathon Tai; tuition from 7500B) tuition ance Bldg, 13 Th Sathon Tai; enrolment and accommodation queries. enrolment and accommodation 2677 3150; [email protected]; Bangkok Insur- dents who are not enrolled in the full MA pro- not enrolled dents who are Contactgramme. for tuition, the department pervised Depending on doctoral research. also accepts stu- the centre availability, class theatre, ecology and urbanisation. The PhD theatre, su- of years programme includes additional an English-language programme that covers programme that covers an English-language including folklore, Thai culture, aspects of Chulalongkorn University, Th Phayathai; Skytrain Siam) Chulalongkorn University, Th Phayathai; in Thai studies, degrees MA and PhD fers 9 ; level, the classes specialised focus on vocabu- tourism, culture, as environment, lary, such The and news reading. economics religion, or for academics is best suited programme Contact the depart- professionals. business enrolment and accommo- ment for tuition, dation queries. coursework with each level lasting five weeks weeks level five lasting each with coursework the intermediate study). At of (100 hours lonelyplanet.com als. Pro Language starts with the basics and in difficultyincreases to the advanced level, .prolanguage.co.th; 10th fl, Times Square Bldg, Th Sukhumvit; Square 10th fl, Times .prolanguage.co.th; Skytrain Nana) in front of the YWCA building, offers Thai- the YWCA building, offers in front of broken 30 hours that cover courses language into one- or two-hour classes per day, as well BANGKOK venin-producing snakes become reluctant altruists attheanti- as stretching of thelegsandlungs.View lethal forkite-flyingand evening aswell (inseason) trusty allyinthe cool hours of themorning bus 13,505,SkytrainSalaDaeng,subwayLumphini) admissionfree; Withayu &ThRatchadamri; daily feedings of penguinsandsharks. reef zoneorview the deep the glass-enclosed 146 upii Park Lumphini pastures during public horse-racing eventspastures heldtwiceamonth. duringpublichorse-racing park. The tothe shrinewillbeattheendofbuildingnext park. concrete pathwaytotherightwhichwinds downintothebowelsofbuildingbesidecar –evering fertility since. Togethere hotel iffacingtheentranceofRaffles followthesmall baby, andtheshrinehasreceived asteady stream ofworshippers –mostlyyoungwomenseek- in theoldbanyantree onthesite. thereafter Someonewhomadeanoffering shortly hada lionaire businessmanNaiLert tohonourJaoMaeThap Thim, afemale deitythoughttoreside Bldg, , Th Phrannok, Thonburi; admission40B; Hospital,ThPhrannok,Thonburi; Bldg, Siriraj Broadway high kicks andlip-synchedpoptunes.Broadway highkicks Thim; Map Thim; Map pp128-9 taxiThaWithayu) Park; NaiLert Hotel,ThWithayu;SkytrainPloenchit,khlong an infamous museums onthehospitalpremises, thisone’sclaimtofameistheleatherycadaver ofSiOuey, will efficientlyseparate fromthereluctant theaspiringdoctors patients. Oneofseven medical Holy gun-shotwound,Batman!This grisly Songkran Niyosane Forensic Medicine Museum stoneandwoodenphallisurroundaspirithouse Clusters ofcarved Lingam Shrine at Nai Lert Park 800B; btwn Soi22&24;tickets pp128-9; (Map figurescostumes, bighairandnaturalhour-glass atthecity’s bars,themore straight-lacedlady-boys atgo-go visitorcanwitnessthemagic ofsequinned foreignturn foolingmanyunsuspecting visitors. willnodoubtencounter Whilenightstalkers Thailand’s thirdgender( Cabaret Kàthoey Dunant&ThRatchadamri 86; btwnThHenri facilitiesattheexclusive sports Bangkok’s bluebloodsandaccomplishednouveau richeenjoythestatus,privilegeand…ohyeah, Races Horse side.Bangkok’s freakier upandsmellthefishsauce.soi dogs,thenyouneedtowake Orspendthedayexperiencing sweepingthelawns,childrenthe groundskeepers bathinginthefilthycanals,ormangy If you’ve andhave joinedtheroutineoflotus-eaters stoppednoticingthetaxi-cabshrines, BANGKOK BIZARRE museum buildingwillbeonyourleft. the bloodiedT-shirt whowasstabbedto death withadildo. fromavictim 8.15pm &9.45pm) AGO • BnkkFrCide BANGKOK ••BangkokForChildren From Tha Rot Fai, followtheroadtosecondentranceintoSirirajHospitalcampus. 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(Map (Map p127 IV,btwnTh ; ThPhraRam and 0 2653 3960; www.calypsocabaret.com; Asia Hotel, 296 Th Phayathai; tickets 1000B; 0 26533960;www.calypsocabaret.com; AsiaHotel,296ThPhayathai;tickets Snake Farm Snake Mambo Cabaret kàthoey; h ( p137). showtimes 8.30pm&10pm) Royal Bangkok Sports Club Royal BangkokSports lady boys)pushesgender-bending wellintogender-illusion, in h 5am-8pm; ; bus16&21

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) Mp p130; (Map % . Commonerscangainaglimpseofgreener h hostchoreographed stageshowsfeaturing Near the old Portuguese quarter inNear theoldPortuguese Join thenovice monks andotherchil- 0 2259 5128; Washington Theatre, Th Sukhumvit, 0 22595128;WashingtonTheatre, ThSukhumvit, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; river ferry ThaRotFai) river 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; % kàthoey

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operates the operates ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclists Manohra Cruises Not into tropical exertion? Then climb Not into tropical exertion? Bangkok Bike Rides AsianOasis tours to outlying agricultural areas, to Ko Kret to Ko Kret to outlying agricultural areas, tours and and Damnoen Saduak beyond. Bush, can ride except George that any monkey, without effort. lush, undeveloped district known as Phra lush, undeveloped district known as Phra narrow walkways crisscross where Phradeang, small-scale fruit irrigation canals that feed is a Cycling plantations and simple villages. the area. way to explore great 10/5-7 Soi 26, Th Sukhumvit;2665 6364; www.realasia.net; tours from 1000B; two-wheeled the longest-running one of offers Seasoned to this area. cyclists start adventures from crowded Th Sukhumvit stopping at Khlong and transferring Toey produce market via long-tail boat. Phradaeng to Phra www.bangkokbikerides.com; 14/1-B Soi Phromsi 2, off Soi 39, Th Sukhumvit; tours from 2000B) tour company Spice Roads, also conducts bike .manohracruises.com; Bangkok Marriott.manohracruises.com; Resort & Spa, Thonburi; 3- day trip US$1265) the cal equivalent of decorated rice barge teak train. This is a restored four luxury carpets and with antiques, Persian two- The trip is a three-day, sleeping berths. and the package to Ayuthaya, night excursion except for tax and service.price is all-inclusive at a temple, In the evening the boat anchors served. a candlelit dinner is where The next food to the monks offer morning passengers on to Bang moves the barge from the wat before is also available. charter Private Pa-In. Bicycle & Segway Tours is a Bangkok’s concrete Just beyond all of journey betweenjourney Bangkok is and Ayuthaya or departing the return a boat, while aboard trip is by bus. conveniences. and modern old-world charm down- or either an upstream Trips include Ayuthaya with bus journey to/from stream Lodging direction. in the opposite transfer on the provided are and a candlelit dinner boat. Offering at Ay- food alms to the monks uthaya is an optional activity. aboard a Segway, the nonmotorised scooter .mekhalacruise.com; Menam Riverside trip Hotel; 2-day on season) US$289-$347 depending aboard a fleet of restored rice barges with with rice barges restored aboard a fleet of

0 7- % h 8-10pm) h 6-7pm & 7.30- 0 2511 5555; 0 2476 0022; 0 2639 0704; 0 2639 0704; h % % % (Map pp116-17 ;

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BANGKOK •• Tours Krung Sri IMAX commands a fleet of converted teak rice teak converted commands a fleet of runs a buxom wooden boat that floats Yok Yor Marina & Restaurant

Manohra Cruises Wan Fah Cruises MBK ( p174 ) and Siam Paragon ( p175 ) both ) both p175 ( ) and Siam Paragon p174 MBK ( centre’s appeal. Normally only one leg of the appeal. Normally only one leg of centre’s Pa-In ( p202 ). To ruin-weary travellers, the ). To ruin-weary travellers, p202 ( Pa-In journey might broaden the historical river take in all the romance of the river. Most trips the river. in all the romance of take ruins Ayuthaya’s include a guided tour of Bang with a stop at the summer palace of river cruises from Bangkokriver north to the ruins ) p194 Ayuthaya ( royal capital the former of of A little faster than the days of sailing ships, of than the days A little faster Skytrain station). Bang Pa-In & Ayuthaya Cruises cessible via a free river shuttle that operates shuttle that operates river via a free cessible between (near Saphan Taksin Tha Sathon barges that part the waters with regal flair. flair. with regal that part the waters barges ac- Resort, Boats depart from the Marriott Thonburi; cocktail/dinner cruise 500/1700B, 10pm) www.manohracruises.com; Bangkok Marriottwww.manohracruises.com; Resort & Spa, in style with accompanying Thai music and Dinner options include a traditional dance. standard or seafood set menu. River City Shopping Complex; dinner cruise 680-780B; 9pm) 2863 0565; www.yokyor.co.th; 885 Soi Somdet Chao Phraya 17, 2863 0565; www.yokyor.co.th; Thonburi; adult/child 120/60B plus meal costs; world. The food, of course, runs a distant course, a distant runs world. The food, of second to the ambiance. underneath Saphan Phra Ramunderneath Saphan Phra IX, the longest in the bridge single-span cable-suspension and noise of town. Cruises from down- and noise range of and severalhome to sophisticated even sail city lights at night, far away from the heat Perfect for romancing couples or subdued couples or subdued for romancing Perfect families, dinner cruisesswim along the Mae in the twinkling basking Nam Chao Phraya action flicks and nature features. features. action flicks and nature TOURS Dinner Cruises cupied. Ram Th Phra 600/250B) I; admission adult/child Siam Paragon, Hollywood of special-effects versions screens have bowling alleys to keep the older ones oc- alleys to keep bowling have tificial hill cluttered with miniature shrines shrines miniature with hill cluttered tificial a turtle pond. encircling winding path and a sell to the resi- cut fruit for feeding Vendors Bridge. It’s near Memorial dent turtles. lonelyplanet.com is a favourite among Thai friends celebrating is a favourite ‘Happy of birthdays with rousing renditions Bert-day’. BANGKOK Luang. Datesvary. seasonwithaceremony atSanam mences rice-planting May May San.Heldinmid-April. placeonThKhao take Themostintensewaterbattles participants. unsuspecting and and waterballoonsbeinglaunchedatsuspecting morphed intoawaterwarwithhigh-powered waterguns April Lumphini Park. ofSanamLuang and battleitoutovertheskies ful kites Qens Birthday Queen’s August Cultural Centre. HeldtwiceayearinJuneandSeptember. andculture sponsored bytheThailand ofarts extravaganza &Dance FestivalInternational ofMusic June Elephant Park. Pathom’s Samphran the graceofanelephantatNakhon whodisplay women(over80kg) pageant forextra-large trends creeping acrosstheglobe,Thailandhostsabeauty JumboQueen Contest Miss Royal PloughingCeremony Songkran Season Kite-Flying Chinese NewYear Film FestivalBangkok International January various international festivals. for exactdates. Theculturalcentres alsohost Division Bangkok Tourism the website of Check ways somethinggoingoninBangkok. In additiontothenationalholidays,there’s al- FESTIVALS &EVENTS the AncientCityinSamutPrakan( p186 ). parks,andto tours Bangkok’s through several www.thailandsegwaytours.com; 90-mintoursfrom1900B) 148 March vary. fireworks. Mostfestivities centre aroundChinatown.Dates New Year withaweekofhousecleaning,liondancesand as Mother’s Day throughoutthecountry. InBangkok, February/March in mid-January. Held becoming aBollywoodandHongKongmoviehybrid. on thesilverscreens. Ifyouhaven’theard,Bangkokisfast talent andoverseasindiesarrive film.org) Home-grown AGO • Fsias&Eet BANGKOK ••Festivals &Events ThecelebrationoftheThaiNewYear has TAT The queen’s birthday isrecognised Thequeen’s birthday Thai-Chinese celebratethelunar Thai-Chinese During thewindyseason,colour- During

(www.tourismthailand.org)

(early May) Withfat- (earlyMay) (www.bangkoktourist.com) His Majesty the King com- theKing Majesty His (www.bangkok An orthe offers offers

with lotsofparadesandfireworks. Heldon5December. early November. indiebandsgatherforanannualfest. Heldin indie-est November garlands. Heldon23October. withincenseandflower merit cometomake of devotees anniversary ofhisdeathattheRoyalPlazainDusit.Crowds December November. city’s gaybusinessesandorganisations. Heldinmid- andawardsisorganisedbythe festival ofparades,parties Kn’ Birthday King’s Pride Bangkok Fat Festival Kràthong Loi ChulalongkornDay King Festival Vegetarian mantic and unique. options, if you’re lookingforsomething ro- ginning tosprout afew beautifulboutique the formerroyaldistrict,isbe- Ratanakosin, faroutnumber skyscrapers. Ko shophouses thanotherareas,less urbanised meaningthat offer optionsand are avarietyof affordable Bothneighbourhoodsfrom Banglamphu. many of theindependent-mindedtravellers Chinatown islesstouristyand stealing arrival.Fastcent Bangkok becomingarival, reigned asthemostlikely crashpadforare- ofand itstouristghetto Sanhave ThKhao by budget range. row yourchoices byneighbourhood andthen places andbudget first types,youmight nar- of thewidedistributionofbetter’. Because the Thaicommercialphilosophyof ‘more is ofare thousands choices, trueto seemingly the threadbare toultraluxurious,andthere Accommodation in ranges fromBangkok SLEEPING September/October Palace. Heldon12August. andtheGrand festivities centre aroundThRatchadamnoen Nam ChaoPhraya. HeldinearlyNovember. ontheMae leaf andcontainingalitcandleare setadrift the fullmoon,smalllotus-shapedboatsmadeofbanana October/November found inChinatown.Datesvary. meatless meals. Thegreatest concentrationofvendorsis wheels outyellow-bannered streetside vendorsserving For close totwodecades,Banglamphu For close Sponsored byFAT 104.5FM radio,Bangkok’s Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Abeautifulfestival where, onthenightof (www.utopia-asia.com) Aweek-long Locals celebrate their monarch’s birthday Localscelebratetheirmonarch’sbirthday A 10-day Chinese-Buddhist festival A10-dayChinese-Buddhist Rama Vishonoured onthe Rama BANGKOK 149 0 2281 4901, 49/4-8 0 2281 4901, 49/4-8 % (Map pp120-1 ;

This family-run guesthouse has shared This family-run guesthouse has shared The following are only a cross section of only a cross section of The following are Most of the year, it pays to visit several Most of More and more, the neighbourhood is is the neighbourhood and more, More to be savvy enough to find the best fit for you and your wallet. BUDGET Chai’s House Soi Rongma; s/d 165/275B; bus 53, 506, river Tha Phra ferry Athit) budget phenomenon with in-room décor phenomenon with in-room décor budget to the former compared (truly a revolution vomit) dried projectile flophouse aesthetic of sturdier beds, private and comfort (air-con, always opening are bathrooms). New hotels promotional up, accompanied by attractive on Th should shop Savvy travellers rates. Khao San, Th Rambutri, Soi Rambutri and Th Kraisi. a decision, but making guesthouses before in the high season (December to February), vacant bed you come across. The the first take is around day to find a vacancy best time of time; 10am or 11am. check-out the accommodation options. We trust you room); look for long-running guesthouses as Lek,such Chada House on Th and Nat Khao spots in the alleys behind San, or other Th Khao San or across Th Tanao. upper- towards the multistorey, gravitating BANGKOK •• Sleeping least one pool either tropically landscaped or with city views, fitness and business centres, centres, landscaped or with city views, fitness and business least one pool either tropically data ports, phones, interna- Rooms typically have IDD international and sometimes a spa. a lot have hotels boutique New-trend etc. boxes safety-deposit tional cable channels, minibar, in the listed perks are Special usually include breakfast. tiny. Rates of style, but rooms can be will add a 10% service plus 7% tax to in this category hotels charge The individual reviews. bills. hotel the high-quality guesthouses, then moves into a grey area of mediocrity. Above 1000B, the 1000B, the of mediocrity. Above area into a grey then moves the high-quality guesthouses, desk clerks and back home – a bellboy, uniformed all the appearance of a hotel have hotels Swimming pools and complimentary without the predictability. a well-polished lobby – but a 7% tax. also charge Some hotels the review. in noted are breakfasts 300B, you’ll get a bed and four walls. You’ll share a bathroom (no hot water), and a rickety fan a rickety and fan (no hot water), a bathroom You’ll share a bed and four walls. 300B, you’ll get start the 400B range, you should up to Once you step hot air around the room. will chase the to block shower and walls thick enough with hot-water bathroom private to expectair-con, out noise. at standards and have will maintain international hotels than 4000B) – These Top end (more starts bag of all, the midrange level out with Midrange biggest mixed – The (700B to 3999B) From 100B to expect (less than 700B) – Don’t Budget this price range. much in the low end of

„ „ „ WHAT TO EXPECT IN BANGKOK TO EXPECT IN BANGKOK WHAT and top-end For midrange booking search online hotels, agencies rack rates. We list high-season in US rates of the top-end Some quote hotels for promotional rates. websites hotel or individual crisis. currency the Asian from dollars, a holdover If you’re hanging out in the low end of the low end of hanging out in the If you’re The most famous hotels, however, are along however, are The most famous hotels, Th Sukhumvit and Th Silom are major major Th Sukhumvit and Th Silom are The Siam Square area is centrally located is centrally located area The Siam Square cheapest options start at 180B (shared bath- start options at 180B (shared cheapest budget range, just show up and start hunting, range, budget reservations. don’t take as most cheapies The without hitting an internet shop, travel agent agent travel shop, without hitting an internet or beer stall. ices abound: you can’t swing a túk-túk driver you can’t swing a túk-túk driver ices abound: Banglamphu, that in- the neighbourhood Th Khao San, of street cludes the backpacker is a well-padded landing zone for jet-lagged anytime a rule you can arrive As travellers. at night and find a place to crash. And serv- and sanitised version of a country that can be a of and sanitised version a little rough on the edges. Banglamphu the riverside near Th Silom. The river views near Th Silom. The river the riverside is a comfortable scenic and the experience are area tends to attract sex tourists visiting the tends area bars. nearby go-go business areas with corporate hotel chains chains hotel with corporate areas business The Sukhumvit specials. and package-tour nirvana. guesthouses offer the variety of budget choices choices budget the variety of guesthouses offer within striking distance to shopping-centre between old and new Bangkok and is on both Skytrain lines. High-rise and low-rise hotels Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book BANGKOK The signpointingdownalittlesub- Donna, weare sohappytohave foundyou. Soi Rambutri, ThChakraphong;s250B,d420-500B;bus53, Soi Rambutri, crowing roosters and thesmellsof mesquite womblike of garden amidthevillage noises occupies a housewives. Thisoldteak house hood of bicycle-riding children and chatting the VIII) ferry ThaPhraAthit&Saphan Ram 230 Soi1,ThSamsen;s/d250/500B;bus30,53, 506,river usual castof grumpyteenagers. tends tobethe thedeskstaff guesthouses, Singles have shared bathrooms.As withmost beds, andthebathroomsare newandshiny. Rooms are andcleanwithrickety spartan the tiledroofs of theneighbouring temple. hasgreat viewsinto Bella Bella Songkhram, ferry ThaPhraAthit; 506, river fee.Siam IIforaday-use New guesthouse thepoolataffiliated use lockers forsafekeeping valuables.Guestscan cilities. There are alsosmall,self-accessible rooms, whilesomedoubleshave private fa- arecurtains mould-free). Singlesshare bath- schoolmarm’s cleanlinessinspection(shower the spot toparkyourbackpack.Itpassed as ferry ThaPhraAthit,bus53,506;290B, d320-490B;river ThPhraAthit;s .newsiam.net; 21SoiChanaSongkhram, Not allroomshave windows. new comforters andlarge shared bathrooms. was acleanandquietnestwithbigtwinbeds, followed onawhim,andtucked backin there ferry ThaPhraAthit; 250-350B; bus53,506,river d subsoi offSoiDamnoenKlangnella,ThRatchadamnoen; enforces a1amcurfew. bathrooms. It’saquietandsecure spotthat 150 Villa Guest House Villa New SiamGH Donna Guesthouse Bella House has plentyofwatering holestosmooththepathslumberland. may allhinderarestful nightifyouoptforabudgetcheapie. San Ontheotherhand,Th Khao inmindthatjetlag,noiseandlackofcleanliness you.Butdokeep justlike ‘fresh-off-the-birds’ which staysuplate, isfullofhotels andguesthouses,seesanear-continuous supplyof (seep181).Andifyouhaven’t San, madehotel gostraighttoTh Khao reservations, bus service arrive late andthatBangkokisanaccommodatingplace. Yes, there are taxisandeven anairport from meagain?Soothethosenagging voiceswiththeknowledgethatmostinternational flights midnight. Willthere betaxisintotown,willthere beavailablerooms,willmyfamilyever hear A lotofnail-bitinganxietyisexpendedontheinternational flightsarrivinginBangkokaround LATE-NIGHT TOUCHDOWN khlong AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping )

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The omphalos of the street’s the street’s The omphalos of a ) a This area is central but difficult in to get This area TT Guest House Sri Ayuttaya Guest House Taewez Guest House Guest Taewez Shanti Lodge In a low-key neighbourhood, this family-run neighbourhood, In a low-key guesthouse is an easy walk to the train station. through courtyard into a shaded Step the gate a news- and reading for sipping coffee perfect bathrooms, are share The rooms, which paper. bland- off to stave touches clean, with a few Nakhon follow Th Maha here, To get ness. Crowded and chaotic, Chinatown is the tra- Crowded and chaotic, mainland Chinese tourists ditional host of Lately, West- and Indian import-exporters. started to slip into the have ern backpackers – a distinctly with little fanfare neighbourhood anonymous experience from the usual walk- The elsewhere. you’ll get treatment ing-ATM high-rise Chinatown are in the heart of hotels amenities and with basic midrange numbers accommodation rates; easy-going relatively can provide around the Hualamphong area making a train escape. before simple shelter by boat) because (unless travelling and out of traffic. supply of a steady of 2236 3054; 516-518 Soi Sawang, Th Maha Nakhon; d 250-280B) share a bathroom. share d 350-500B; bus 30, 503, river5942; Soi Thewet, Th Si Ayuthaya; Tha Thewet; ferry Tha Thewet; family-owned (all by the same family) guest- atmosphere. a yogalike masters houses, Shanti bamboo-walled rooms don’t do The cheaper blocking out the neighbours, of a good job and creative rooms are expensive but more sealed. Chinatown Thewet Thewet Banglamphu north of the district Thewet, back- Library, is another near the National popular with fami- especially enclave, packers leafy It is a lovely crowd. over-30 lies and the the rainy season but during it is prone area, to flooding. bus Thewet, Th Si Ayuthaya; s/d 182/328B; 8856; 23/12 Soi 30, 503, river Tha Thewet; ferry vary rooms concrete no-frills block, Taewez’s in quality, but the spot ranks highly greatly the buddy mood because of with travellers spaces. Singles in the common that flourishes Thewet, Th Si Ayuthaya; d 350-600B; bus 30, 503, riverThewet, Th Si Ayuthaya; d 350-600B; ferry rooms with pretty hardwood floors, exposed floors, hardwood rooms with pretty touches. brick and other stylish ) a 0 2628 6988; 0 2221 9158; ) A simple 0 2629 1785; 0 2629 1785; BANGKOK •• Sleeping % % 0 2622 3356; www. a % % 0 2848 9220; www.ibrikre (Map p130 ;

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This atmospheric shophouse has ) Arun Residence Baan Chantra Members of royalty were the usual were royalty of Members ) a Only three rooms big, this itty-bitty hotel hotel rooms big, this itty-bitty Only three ai ) Ibrik Resort Chakrabongse Villas o Old Bangkok Inn o Tien; Tien; minor palace, just this converted of residents Ko Ra- of a brief stroll from the historic sites tanakosin. But today, you can usurp the royal sur- luxury retreats three birthright in one of view. rounded by a lush garden and a river thaivillas.com; 396 Th Maharat;thaivillas.com; r from US$140; river Tha ferry cosy with a morning wake-up view of the the view of cosy with a morning wake-up busy river. offers style and privacy for the average pro- for the average style and privacy offers minimal cool and The rooms are fessional. incl breakfast 4000B; Thonburi;incl breakfast river Tha Wang Lang; ferry a sort.com; 256 Soi Wat Rakang, Th Arunamrin, Thonburi; d is the top floor with its own balcony and view Wat Arun. of wooden house on the river has beenwooden house polished on the river into a comfortable bou- and airy and coaxed but the best lofts, Most rooms are tique hotel. www.arunresidence.com; 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yoong, Th Ma-www.arunresidence.com; harat; r from 2950B; river Tha Tien; ferry transformed into charming tourists nests. transformed into charming But with the advent of the Bangkok boutique of But with the advent being are warehouses the riverside hotels, The most touristed area of Bangkok was until of area The most touristed lodging options. devoid utterly of recently tique hotel with romantically decorated, if if decorated, with romantically tique hotel at its website slightly cramped, rooms. Shop promotions. for rate Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi Fah; Fah; been bou- a cottage-cosy transformed into www.oldbangkokinn.com; 609 Th Phra Sumen; d incl break- 512, khlongfast from 3100B; bus 2, 82, 511, taxi Tha Phan patio. Free wi-fi. Free patio. Many of the house’s details original teak of re- Many room boasts a sunny main, and the deluxe out pretensions, preferring to be comfortable preferring out pretensions, and pinched. and roomy than fashionable pinned with such a title. Akin to its residential Akin to its residential a title. pinned with such house is with- this converted neighbourhood, www.baanchantra.com; 120 Th Samsen; d from 2200B; 120 Th Samsen; d from www.baanchantra.com; Baan hotel, as a boutique Chantra Promoted to be and casually dressed too big is much continuous freak show of Th Khao San. show of freak continuous manor house with traditional and outfitted is the And then at your doorstep Thai designs. tique hotel has lead Th Khao has lead Th San’s gentrifica- tique hotel tropical a breezy evocative of are tion. Rooms Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book BANGKOK túk-túk drivers workingtheentrance. amenities: large frumpyroomswithacrew of Ithasalltheusualmidrangeinto thestation. yourtrainpull this hotel tower,youcansee from 1400B;subwayHualamphong; IV;r 4980; www.bangkokcentrehotel.com; 328ThPhraRam the edges. around butstillalittlerough a guesthouse sion of agrown-uphotel: more comfortthan ver- isthetweener thishigh-rise train station, subway Hualamphong,bus25,35,53; d650-700B; 2225 0132;fax04705;1860ThKrungKasem; signsatthispoint. to see leftontoSoiPhanurangsi.second You’llstart Songwat (before theChinatownArch), thenthe Krung,takePhraya aleftintoTh alongCharoen directions: these need headingnorthfromThSi foryourself,you’ll or brooms.Ifyouwanttosee the roomsaren’t onspeakingterms withmops and ariver-view restaurant onthetopfloor. But streamlike great hiddenlocationamidmachine shopsand ferry ThaSiPhraya; 690B; river 5429; fax022375428;768SoiPhanurangsi,ThSongwat;d450- edge of Chinatown. ofis withinwalkingdistance thetemple onthe ous roomswithallthebasics.Theguesthouse students, thisconverted hasgener- shophouse a d400-600B;bus73,ChaoPhrayaExpress ThaTien;Th Phahurat; deep-fry woks. end of theblockpastmachine shopsand Soi Sawangandfollowitallthewayto underneath theexpressway, turnleftonto 152 Bangkok Centre Hotel Bangkok Centre GuestHouse View River Krung Kasem Srikung Hotel Srikung Krung Kasem 238 Guesthouse canals were cedingtoroads,andhuman-drawn Getting aroundBangkokhasalwaysbeenachallenge,even waybackinthe18thcentury as WHERE YOUGO? the silent treatment delivers untoldsumsofsanity. is considered aninvitationfor astrongersalespitchinThailand. Itmightfeel disrespectful but in Thailand toignore apolite infact, ‘nothankyou’,arequisite ahawker; in Western cultures, withstand thissiren’s song,youshouldnot apologise foryourdisinterest. Itisnot considered rude off byunscrupuloustúk-túk drivers, few canresist thecall‘Heyyou,where you go?’.Ifyoucan asthmaticpowersaws.and coughinglike Even though mostshort-term visitorswillgetripped- onomatopoeic up acloudofbluesmoke flyaroundcorners,kicking túk-túk. These wilygo-carts the early20thcentury,rickshawgave waytothesqueaky s nated theroadways,s too steep andpassengerswould have towalkacrossthemselves. Oncecarsandtrucksdomi- which better suited archedbridges,however, Bangkok’sflatterrain. At theinclinewas certain ) ApopularoptionforWatPho massage AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping soi , justnorthof River CityComplex,

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Wendy House is as professional as they Wendy House is as professional Well-proportioned rooms don’t have a lot don’t have Well-proportioned rooms ) ) Indra Regent Hotel Holiday Mansion Hotel A-One Inn VIP Guest House/Golden House Bed & Breakfast Inn soot-stained box doesn’t look like much from much doesn’t look like soot-stained box www.indrahotel.com; 120/126 Th Ratchaprarop, d from 2800B; Skytrain Chitlom, khlong taxi Tha Pratunam; charming when promotions give your credit credit your when promotions give charming card a holiday. rooms are entering the sunset years of their of the sunset entering years rooms are becomes utterly but the whole package career, grandfather clock (the standard uniform for The generous-sized calibre). this of hotels vincial sophistication. There is a pleasant inte- vincial sophistication. There and a dusty rior courtyard pool, marble lobby 0099; fax 0 2253 0130; 53 Th Withayu; d incl breakfast from 0099; fax 0 2253 0130; 53 Th Withayu; d incl breakfast 2500B; Skytrain Ploenchit; is down a little alley near Telephone Organiza- is down a little alley near Telephone Thailand. tion of this small inn leads to rooms with mammoth- Bathrooms, sized beds and parquet floors. VIP tubs, only showers. however, don’t have 2252 9535; fax 0 2252 9538; 1025/5-9 Th Ploenchit; d incl 2000B; Skytrain Chitlom; breakfast 1000B; Skytrain National Stadium, khlong taxi Tha Ratchathewi; a Wendy House MIDRANGE MIDRANGE a good just plain bells and whistles but are of business. sees return lot of a A-One value. .aoneinn.com; 25/13-15 Soi Kasem San 1, Th Pha Ram I; d from khlong600B; Skytrain National Stadium, taxi Tha Ratchathewi; Skytrain National Stadium, khlong taxi Tha Ratchathewi; guesthouse has standard,This maze-like re- rooms. cently remodelled Kasem San 1, Th Phra Ram Skytrain National Stadium, I; r 450B; khlong taxi Tha Ratchathewi; BUDGET BUDGET Pranee Building ‘Kasem’ with a ‘g’ instead of ‘k’) is across from ‘k’) is across of a ‘g’ instead with ‘Kasem’ Stadiumthe National hàeng châat) kii-laa Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book come with a genuine Thai-style concern for come with a genuine on the small side, its guests. The rooms are though. 8053; Soi Kasem San 1, Th Phra Ram from I; d incl breakfast Soi Kasem 1, Th Phra Ram San 400/500B; I; s/d incl breakfast est options on the street, Pranee isn’t fancy on the street, est options hot and with air-con large but the rooms are a tad decrepit. the bathrooms are water; option, the Mansion is a poster child of pro- of child is a poster option, the Mansion BANGKOK From theoutside,Niagaralookslike justan- 2287 1457; 54 Soi Ngam Duphli, Th Phra Ram IV;s/d from 2287 1457; 54 SoiNgamDuphli,Th PhraRam hard bedisgraced withaplushcomforter. are immaculate, almoststerile, andtherock- one of thebestbargains inSilom.Therooms other crummyno-tell motel, butinsidereveals 9/Suksavitthaya, ThSilom;d700B;SkytrainChong Nonsi; leftandthefirst right. the second thentake SoiNgamDuphliatthe7-Eleven, off with shared bathroom.Toget here, take aleft issue–fourwalls,bedandalight, standard Allroomsare Bangkok. than bright-lights akin tothelodgingoptionsinprovinces ismore thisfamily-runguesthouse cul-de-sac, Lumphini, bus74,109,116,507) 15 SoiSiBamphen,offNgamDuphli;d200-400B;subway DailyMansion Sala Thai &MIDRANGEBUDGET shadeless megaroad. the locationissevered fromtheSkytrainbya aesthetic.Thehotels areletariat stylish but that counterbalance SoiNgamDuphli’spro- seediness. Bangkok’ Sanwitha‘busted-flat-in-scene onKhao nearby embassiesortotradethepostbeach areatraffic-clogged toget businessdoneatthe Park. Someshoestringers stillfilter intothis IV,nearLumphini ThPhraDuphli, off Ram love inSoiNgam beadsataguesthouse back inthe1970s,youwouldhave laidyour consuming. older, more historicpartsof towncanbetime- canbethick,andgetting to Traffic Bangkok. Skytrain forquickaccesstomodernpartsof it isconvenient andtothe tonightspots Silom Th along is notthemostcharming area of district town,but financial city’s The Silom, Lumphini&Sathon overhead ‘rain’showerheads. tubsand washing intospa-ingwithdeep-soak rich earth tones,andthebathroomstransform The roomsare decorated withThaisilksand frombeingfussy.to keep themedia-weened delivers nouveau enough styleandattitude jet-setters. Butthisbusiness-districtoption hotels mustyforthe30-something canbeatad Ploenchit; www.conradhotels.com; 87ThWithayu;dfromUS$165;Skytrain 154 Malaysia Hotel Malaysia Niagara Hotel Along ThSathonare top-endhotels several Bangkok Conrad Hotel If youwere hittingtheAsian hippietrail AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping as ) (Map Bangkok’s legendaryBangkok’s luxury

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) as lodge.com; 3ThConvent;d3880-4150B;SkytrainSalaDaeng; prides itself onitspersonal touchesprides itself –hand- Swiss Lodge TOP END information are alsoavailable. floor children’s play area andlotsof tourist accompanied bydurianoralcohol. A2nd- Today allare welcome–aslongyouaren’t missionariesafter Protestant WWII. serving terity reigns originally atthis boardinghouse s/d 1100/1540B;SkytrainSalaDaeng; 2233 2206;www.bcgh.org;123SoiSalaDaeng2,ThConvent; Thai motifs. voluptuous withblood-red wallsandmodern bedroom. Thenextsizeupismore mature and small andfittinglydecorated like achild’s decorated roomisvery rooms. Astandard a boutiqueinnwithplayfullyandindividually ste 2700B;SkytrainChongNonsi; 3301, fax022379322;173/8-9ThSurawong;d1200-1500B, the hormonescene. whoare by it agoodspotforthose amused roomsandtrimpricesmakewell-maintained tourists,butthe adays itisanHQforgaysex SoutheastAsia. tripthrough shoestring Now- Maureen ontheirmaiden andTonyWheeler mous budget lodge gave andeven shelter to The Malaysia mostfa- wasonceBangkok’s 700B/800B; subwayLumphini, bus74,109,116,507; rooms are spare andsevere, butultracosmo- minimalismfascination. The for Bangkok’s This London-hotel boutique isgroundzero ropolitan.como.bz; 27ThSathonTai, dfromUS$240; banquets orconferences. in theirfinestarrive and departforwedding excitement asThais tion andatrain-station has animpressive tiered lobby,acentralloca- Despite theidentitycrisis,thisvenerable hotel under theknife designtrend. of theglobalZen oldgalhasgone one’s shock, thisconservative Daeng, subwaySilom; IV;dUS$210-300;SkytrainSala .dusit.com; 946ThPhraRam needs. els helpsupply90%of thehotel’s hot-water are It’salsogreen; tight. rooftop atad pan- bysoundproofedexterior noise rooms,which tures. Itscentral locationispaddedagainst predawn breakfasts forearly-morningdepar- written welcome notes toreturn guestsor Bangkok Christian GuestHouse Bangkok Christian o Dusit Thani Metropolitan ) Thesmallinnwithbig-guy muscles La RésidenceHotel

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as Millennium Hilton Oriental Hotel Oriental Hotel Peninsula HotelPeninsula a lot of style or sophistication to hike up the up the to hike sophistication style or a lot of room rates. The only trouble is that its Thonburi loca- The only trouble is that nights late in Bangkok a long taxition makes ride away. 333 Th Charoen Nakhon,www.peninsula.com; Thonburi; d from US$200; private near Tha Oriental; pier is Hotel in Thonburi, the Peninsula the river highest-ranking the in hotels luxury one of sense a hushed the world. The lobby exudes mar- with polished and pedigree privilege of hallways. Rooms have ble and squat, squared Bangkok’s high-rises. views of breathtaking is also known for its affiliated The Peninsula golf course. .mandarinoriental.com; 48 Soi Oriental/Soi 38, Th Charoen Krung; d US$300; river Tha Oriental; ferry www.bangkok.hilton.com; Charoen Nakorn, Thonburi; 123 Th r from US$150; a delivers the Hilton ghost on the river, tower the piggy eyrie without bankrupting riverside bank. Because de- the building’s oblong of view, with claim a riverside sign, most rooms the standard rooms possessing feng better design toys: a soaring lots of are shui. There atrium, an infinity pool through a glass- which enclosed elevator does nose-dive a perfect sand included). (real beach and the attached 0 2266 0 2266 0 2237 1094, 0 2344 8888; % BANGKOK •• Sleeping % % Gentleman in the Parlour: A Record of a Journey from Rangoon to Haiphong A Record of a Journey from Rangoon Gentleman in the Parlour:

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(Map pp124-5 ; Sandwiched between Sandwiched the ) a ais Sukhothai Hotel Stylishly unique, the Sukhothai Stylishly unique, mines ) To soak up the ambiance of old seafaring Bangkok, stop by for a cocktail at the Bamboo bar or stop by for a cocktail at the Bamboo bar or To soak up the ambiance of old seafaring Bangkok, With a dramatic setting beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya, the hotel has gained its reputation from from has gained its reputation hotel the With a dramatic setting beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya,

toast the ‘swift river’ as Noël Coward did from the riverside terrace. For teatotallers, an afternoon an afternoon For teatotallers, terrace. riverside as Noël Coward did from the toast the ‘swift river’ To photographs of Rama V. is served black-and-white lounge filled with in a frilly Victorian brew code (no shorts, enforces a dress age, the hotel its aristocratic leanings in a less formal ensure shirtssleeveless or sandals allowed). contributed to the long-lasting literary appeal of the hotel. Other notable guests have included Other included appeal of the hotel. notable guests have to the long-lasting literary contributed and Barbara Cartland. Vidal James Michener,Noël Coward, Graham John le Carré, Gore Greene, block. writer’s will overcome claim that a stay in the Oriental even Some modern-day writers its famous guests. A Polish-born sailor named Joseph Conrad stayed here in between nautical in between nautical A Polish-born sailor named Joseph Conrad stayed here its famous guests. with an advanced case of malaria the hotel jobs in 1888. W Somerset Maugham stumbled into he heard the German state, In his feverish journey from Burma. during his overland contracted would hurt Maugham’s with the doctor about how a death in the hotel manager arguing business. and completion of recovery The Oriental Hotel started out as a roughshod boarding house for European seafarers in the in the seafarers started out as a roughshod boarding house for European Oriental Hotel The aristocratic magnet by Hans Niels Anderson, 19th century, but was transformed into an late between Bangkok and (which operated Company the founder of the formidable East Asiatic Wing, an Italian designer to build what is now known as the Authors’ Copenhagen). He hired at the time building; all other grand architecture secular which was the city’s most elaborate was commissioned by the king. BANGKOK’S GRANDE DAME BANGKOK’S GRANDE DAME

Royal Orchid Sheraton New Road Guesthouse o service views without and picture-postcard and affordable than its other riverside neigh-and affordable than its other riverside high-end has the Royal Sheraton bours, 0123; www.starwoodhotels.com; Soi 30, Th Charoen Krung; Soi 30, Th Charoen Krung; 0123; www.starwoodhotels.com; d from US$150; munal TV. rooms. A comfortable downstairs sitting area rooms. A comfortable sitting area downstairs the com- collects all the guests in front of

fax 0 2237 1102; 1216/1 Th Charoen Krung; d 600-700B; riverfax 0 2237 1102; 1216/1 Th Charoen Tha Si Phraya; ferry Riverside Riverside Bangkok,When people swoon about they’ve the at one of along the river typically lodged luxury hotels. room-sized bathrooms. room-sized bathrooms. Buddha figures. The rooms are exquisitely exquisitely The rooms are Buddha figures. and war- hardwood floors and have decorated land’s ancient capital,land’s ancient inspiration. for design look out at antechambers colonnaded White serene with floating stupas or pools exterior as Thai- namesake, its of monuments the temple www.sukhothai.com; 13/3 Th Sathon Tai; d from 11,900B; d from 11,900B; www.sukhothai.com; Sathon Tai; 13/3 Th politans are still enamoured of the hotel’s the hotel’s of enamoured still politans are coolness. naked Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book luxe hotels is New Road, a friendly cheapie Road, a friendly cheapie is New hotels luxe with compact bath- with clean, tiled rooms BANGKOK hobbling distance of hobbling distance Bumrumgrad Hospital, .com; dm/s/d 250/550/750B;Skytrain Nana; tourists. forbids sex is alsotheonlyhotel in the area thatopenly ming pool.Another plusisthattheAtlanta before email),andajungle-landscapedswim- old-fashioned letter-writing desks(remember, skeletal compared tothelobby,complete with mid-centurylobby. Theroomsarepreserved, Bogart totrotdownthestairs intheperfectly Ploenchit; dfrom400B;Skytrain fax 026568123;78Soi2,ThSukhumvit; to avoid scamsandhassles. all newarrivalsaquickintroductiononhow rooms). Theowners are welltravelled andgive and afew private-room options(shared bath- hassixandeight-bed dorms Soi 1Guesthouse 250-300B; dmfrom .soi1guesthouse.com; 220/7Soi1,ThSukhumvit; Soi 1Guesthouse BUDGET busterminal.beyond theEastern towell of atThPloenchit start ThSukhumvit Skytrain hasopenedupvastfrontiers fromthe horrendous of because theone-waystreets, the is traffic here Although thanin Banglamphu. are more expensive touristservices Sukhumvit, well-paid, expatcommunity. home,formingamotley,yet calls Bangkok of SoiAsoke, imaginablenationality every elsewhere. byit,stay East wowed oramused man withayoungThaigirl).Ifyou’re not Nana couple(anoverweight, older ruled bygirliebars andthequintessential Soi Asoke sector (Soi21)isthesex-tourist be dividedintotwopersonalities. Westof part of Th Bangkok. canclearly Sukhumvit inthisareaStaying putsyouinthenewest Sukhumvit river view. ofnew wingthatdrinksinfulldraughts a prefererations might thesimplydecorated writers whohave beddedhere. Butnewgen- Authors’ Wingroomsnamedafter famous full bygoneimmersion, there istheoriginal Forthe onpersonalisedservice. prides itself rated asone of thebesthotels intheworldand rooted inits Victorianpast.Itisconsistently trend, stays theclassicOriental new Zen the rest of thecity jumpsoverboard forthe 156 Suk 11 Atlanta Because visitors withlarger budgets in Because stay AGO • Sepn BANGKOK ••Sleeping as ai

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Federal hasgoneupmarket, sortof, andnow days asanR&RstopforAmericanGIs,the www.goldenpalacehotel.com; 15 Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit; r 950B; r950B; www.goldenpalacehotel.com; 15Soi1,ThSukhumvit; .majesticsuites.com; 110-110/1 Th Sukhumvit, btwnSoi4&6; .majesticsuites.com; 110-110/1ThSukhumvit, .HIsukhvmit.com; 23 Soi 38, Th Sukhumvit; dm300B,s550- 23Soi38,ThSukhumvit; .HIsukhvmit.com; stylish. stylish. rooms are butnot functionalandaffordable is aninstitutionalvisioninaquamarine. The midrangeerweight division,GoldenPalace Skytrain Ploenchit; of novel. agreenhorn-does-Bangkok lizards andlumpybedshave allthemakings out charm. The name, theMiamihasastrange down-and- the markof theGIdaysinmore waysthanits s/d650/750B;SkytrainNana; Sukhumvit; Hotel Miami MIDRANGE and 4pmto1am. and kitchen. Thehostel isopen7amto11am tourist information,arooftop deck,laundry bus terminal andtheSkytrain.There islotsof of is withinwalkingdistance Ekamai(Eastern) multistorey dorm(floors segregated by sex) 600B, d800-850B;SkytrainThongLor) required.reservations enjoyed intheshadycommonspace. Advance music alongwithtoast-and-jam breakfasts are atthisbudget-friendlyvit’s traffic spot.Mood village re-created hasbeen amidSukhum- Majestic roomsthat has hermeticallysealed s/d 1160/1500B; SkytrainNana; American-style coffee shop. the frangipani-linedpoolandtime-warped shouldbeavoided.however, Thereal drawis and generous rooms, beds.Theground-level decorated furniturecomfortably withrattan fans. Theupstairs roomsarefrom itssexpat enjoys theaffectionate nicknameof ‘Club Fed’ 1100B; SkytrainNana; dfrom [email protected]; 27Soi11,ThSukhumvit; prostitutes andbadmanners. to thedeskclerk,placealsodiscourages and somedon’thave windows.According rooms (anoversight consideringtheprice) and acosyroof terrace. Allroomsshare bath- has touches ofhouse Japanese minimalism train Asoke; d1000B; Sky- .samslodge.com; 28-28/1Soi19,ThSukhumvit; Sam’s Lodge Federal Hotel Golden Palace Hotel HI-Sukhumvit Majestic Suites Majestic a

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) Did you know that in Thailand the in Thailand know that Did you ) a Westin Grande Sukhumvit Dream Bangkok Eugenia made in dreamland for the City of Angels and Angels for the City of made in dreamland Nana. a welcome addition to beer-belly 8000; www.westin.com/bangkok; 259 Th Sukhumvit, Soi 19; Phrom Phong; in Thailand but legacy an indigenous aren’t the anomaly polishes hotel this anachronistic in the Victorian lady. Here a refined to reflect looked town, Eugenia most modern part of inspiration, deco- into the history books for canopy beds, old- rating 12 guest rooms with clean yet and other lightfashioned fixtures touches. feminine Soi 15, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Asoke or Nana; r from US$136; ais a modern make- given tubs were pagne-glass Bangkok, another Dream you’d have over, and socialite conquest by New York hotelier Vikram Chatwal. The clubby blue-lit décor making it a match kitsch, is unintentionally Phong; with the Hindu associated the week are days of This new symbolic colours? Gods and their this cultural has incorporated boutique hotel a Sukhumvit apart- of conversion hook into its to Eachment building. room is decorated with a particular associated the colour match Thai the week. décor is evocative The of day of hues. in modern and elegant mural painting the room that rep- To further the theme, pick born – an the week you were the day of resents Thai astrology. important component of 267 Soi 31, Th Sukhumvit;genia.com; r from 5800B; Skytrain : young, rich and beautiful. Most are bilingual bilingual : young, rich and beautiful. Most are hi-so ) with VIP credentials and serious shopping addictions and serious shopping addictions ) with VIP credentials 0 2261 Close to ) % can usually be found at official ceremonies or heading an or heading an can usually be found at official ceremonies faràng BANGKOK •• Sleeping ) Another in Architectural Architectural 0 2253 4300; www as % khunyings as (half Thai- (Map pp122-3 ;

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entourage of merit-makers. entourage of merit-makers. kok’s ruling matrons. With their Imelda Marcos–helmet hairdos, jewel-toned Thai silks and silks and With their Imelda Marcos–helmet hairdos, jewel-toned Thai kok’s ruling matrons. thick pancake makeup, who doesn’t belong to a brothel. a prostitute Bangkok, it means you are Dek Neaw Thais or Thais fabulous. to things that are crowd to refer Khunying meticulously styled bed-head hairdos. Hi-so satisfied at the Emporium Shopping Centre. Don’t expect sit next to to a satisfied at the Emporium Shopping Centre. they have chauffeured cars. Oddly, the English word ‘hipster’ has been coopted by the has been coopted Oddly, the English word ‘hipster’ cars. chauffeured they have In to a contract worker. when you use this all-purpose word to refer – Careful Freelancer

„ „ „ You might not learn Thai during your stay in Bangkok, but plenty of Thai phrases and hybrid phrases and hybrid during your stay in Bangkok, but plenty of Thai You might not learn Thai few: a are words infuse the city’s unique bilingual dictionary. Here „ SPEAKING BANGKOK Bel-Aire Princess Davis Novotel Lotus Bangkok .com; 3/15 Soi 31, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Phrom d from 4000B; TOP END TOP END Seven .bel-aireprincess.com; 16 Soi 5, Th Sukhumvit;.bel-aireprincess.com; d from 3500B; Skytrain Nana; beds and big sunny windows arranged aroundbeds and big sunny windows arranged lap pool and garden. a private beds. Straight from the pages of of beds. Straight pages from the Digest, golden wood with deepto a burnished sleigh mese up in the big marble plantation. Freshen in the fluffy slumber a dreamy bathrooms after with cool sophistication and rooms decoratedwith cool sophistication a Raj’s or a Bur- palace, a Kyoto hermitage like .net; Soi 24, Th Sukhumvit; d from 3000B; a place Ram of Th Phra is a peach the Davis IV, 0111; www.accorhotels-asia.com; 1 Soi 33, Th Sukhumvit; d Phrom Phong; from 3000B; Skytrain bird’s-eye view of the street’s traffic-snarledstreet’s the of bird’s-eye view find the among us will The petite grandeur. for the may argue while others rooms cosy, ‘cramped’. term deliver privacy and quiet even with screaming and quiet even privacy with screaming deliver a Sukhumvit right rooms have Front outside. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book with a stylish lobby and rooms that are being lobby and rooms that are with a stylish upgraded to match. the Accor brand is this well-designed mod- the Accor brand is this with a soothing lotus complete ern creation Rooms are the lobby. of pond in the centre on a also suites are There plush and private. semiprivate floor with a terrace. BANGKOK .thaihouse.co.th; 8,BangYai, 32/4Mu dfrom Nonthaburi; gardens by theriver, theMarriott really is Oriental; d fromUS$180;hotelshuttle boatfromThaSathon& 2476 0022,fax0 1120; 257/1-3ThCharoenNakhon; Airport, which isjusta300mstrollaway. option tothenewSuvarnabhumi International dfrom3600B; Prakan; Samut ThRatchathewi, 1111; www.accorhotels-asia.com; really bigandlarge isreally large. sizingfortheir rooms:smallis Starbucks use cool.They whimsy, urbanityandstraight-up (30 inall)andwenttotownwithbrushes of lunch. Local designers were assignedaroom hascookedthe bestthingBangkok upsince dressed upinfunartycolours, Reflectionsis d2850-3450B;SkytrainAri; Phahonyothin; Th 81-83Soi7/Ari, 0 22703359;www.reflections-thai.com; the website forplumperdiscounts. account.Shopwithout acorporate expense Ibis Siamdelivers comfortandconvenience of business-friendly hotels formodestbudgets, Monument,bus513) train Victory r2300B;Sky- 97ThRatchaprarop; www.accorhotels.com/asia; p143). (see cooking courses opentoguestsandnonguests alsoconducts Theguesthouse port details. theproprietors Contact guesthouse. fortrans- fruit trees, converted which hasbeen intoa is thistraditionalThaihomesurroundedby 1200B) layovers. notflight deeds moved, lodgers shouldcomesolelyforgood point,butnowthattheairporthas ary selling Don Muang,theoldairport,wassecond- womenandchildren.abused Itslocationnear goingtofundemergencyproceeds shelters for operated byanonprofit women’sgroupwith dm/r200/740B; Don Muang; 3,ThDechatungkha, 501/1Mu 8550-4; www.we-train.co.th; House International We-Train Greater Bangkok that is tubandshowerseparate withashowerhead an eternal reward should have be. Bathrooms marked ‘Heavenly’ beds,assoft andcosyas and roomyroomsoutfitted withthetrade- professional, staff theWestinboastsefficient r fromUS$140;SkytrainAsoke; 158 Bangkok Marriott Resort &Spa Resort Bangkok Marriott Hotel SuvarnabhumiAirport Novotel House Thai Reflections Rooms Reflections Ibis SiamBangkok Northof inNonthaburi centralBangkok AGO • Etn BANGKOK ••Eating faràng ais

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h Dosa King breakfast, lunch & dinner; bus 56, 506, riverbreakfast, lunch & dinner; river Tha Phra Athit) ferry ( p162 ) has a vegetarian stall stall ) has a vegetarian p162 ( ). (Map pp120-1 ; cnr Th Phra Athit & Th Phra ; cnr Th Phra Athit pp120-1 (Map

h h ), ( p166 A Bangkok legend, Roti-Mataba A Bangkok Roti-Mataba legend, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; river Tha Phra ferry (Map pp120-1 ; rotii

( p166 ) and p166 ( h With as much charm as a school caf- as a school charm With as much Roti-Mataba Ton Pho Ranee Guesthouse Ranee Guesthouse Khrua Nopparat Govinda (a stuffed flatbread), and chicken or vegetable or vegetable and chicken flatbread), Athit) devotes of all the Nopparat’s kitchen eteria, a to the menu. The dishes are its resources away from the Thai little small, so don’t shy include Winners overordering. tradition of or shrimp the deep-fried floating dock that does all the staples with Do the a Thai grandmother. the expertise of décor inversely the lack of here: litmus test the food. of the strength matches dishes 70-120B; prices, follow Th Khao San to Th Tanao and Khao follow Th prices, San to Th Tanao jog right small to the KhaoKing (yup, corporate) San has gone vegetar- left to a string of and then another ian shops. does of a whirlwind business (Thai Muslim curry) served with 60-100B; Chinese greens). (stir-fried dishes 80-100B; Sumen; dishes 60-80B; Sumen; dishes 60-80B; Tha Phra Athit) Right beside Tha Phra Athit is this converted Athit is this converted Right beside Tha Phra MBK Food Centre Baan Suan Pai fash- for more for more haute soi ( above ). ). above ( ; these are typically low-scale stir-fry shops that do something akin typically low-scale stir-fry to what ; these are ( above ) are all affiliated centres. centres. all affiliated ) are above (

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Ranee Guesthouse h Arawy For an all-veggie menu at meatless For an all-veggie Opposite the Municipal Hall and a the Municipal Hall Opposite (Alloy; Map pp120-1 ; 152 Th Din So; dishes 35B; ; 152 Th Din So; dishes 35B; pp120-1 (Alloy; Map

A more modern trend in vegetarianism is the health-conscious gourmet treatment that is that is is the health-conscious gourmet treatment in vegetarianism modern trend A more Indian, Chinese and Muslim restaurants are also veggie-friendly. also veggie-friendly. are Indian, Chinese and Muslim restaurants An indigenous vegetarian movement can be found in the food centres operated by the Santi by the Santi operated be found in the food centres can movement An indigenous vegetarian Banglamphu has the greatest concentration of vegetarian-friendly restaurants thanks to the thanks to the restaurants concentration of vegetarian-friendly Banglamphu has the greatest

breakfast & lunch; bus 10, 19, 42, khlong & lunch; bus 10, 19, 42, breakfast taxi to Tha well-established overseas. Stylish spots, such as well-established overseas. that requires mastery of the Asian queue in order to sneak in an order. an order. queue in order to sneak in of the Asian mastery that requires ( p164 ) are both solely vegetarian. During the vegetarian festival in October, the whole city goes in October, the whole city goes festival During the vegetarian both solely vegetarian. ) are p164 ( banners; Chi- their nonmeat menu with yellow indicate mad for tofu, and stalls and restaurants natown has the highest concentration of stalls. ( above ) ( above and ( p166 ) and Asoke community, an ascetic Buddhist sect that practises self-sufficiency through agriculture an ascetic Buddhist sect community, that practisesAsoke agriculture self-sufficiency through in conjunction with Bangkok’s former operated are centres food The diets. and strict vegetarian during his cor- who popularised both the sect , vegetarianism and governor and ’90s. in the 1980s tenure ruption-reducing nonmeat-eating Although most Thais regard vegetarianism as antithetical to good sense, there are several strong strong several are as antithetical to good sense, there vegetarianism regard Although most Thais scene. in Bangkok’s restaurant of meatless philosophies represented currents standouts include cooking have in their kitchens. A few your hippie roommates VEGGING OUT IN BANGKOK VEGGING OUT IN BANGKOK deliver date settings for vegetarian epicures, tired of suffering with the meatless afterthoughts with the meatless afterthoughts of suffering tired epicures, settings for vegetarian date deliver on most menus.

May Kaidee’s May Kaidee’s Klang; dishes 50B; Tha Phra Athit) Bangkok. was inspired by the strict vegetarianism of of vegetarianism by the strict was inspired of Chamlong Srimuang, the ex-governor of prepared dishes makes it user-friendly, and it user-friendly, dishes makes prepared of the veggies of out the flavour brings the chef oil spill. The restaurant without the tasteless matron of meatless is one of the best Thai is one of meatless matron of in the city. A selection restaurants vegetarian authentic street-side eating than what you’ll eating authentic street-side find along Th Khao San. Phan Fah) this a 7-Eleven down from store, doors few Arawy THAI THAI Western and vegetarian food are well repre- food are and vegetarian Western sented. Duck into the maze of cheap Thai eats. Open-air restaurants and and restaurants Thai eats. Open-air cheap grazing of claim the majority vendors street options. Because presence, the backpacker of Banglamphu Banglamphu for the best of is one the river near This area prepare the tastes of home in the home of the tastes prepare lonelyplanet.com ion for power players or as pub grub to cure grub to cure or as pub power players ion for homesickness. h BANGKOK ner party. Specifyifyouwant brownrice. where theowner’schildren playpretend din- can beenjoyedin aquietgardencourtyard dishes. Stir-fries are cooked toperfection and large portions of vegetable-adoringserves will appreciate kitchen, which thisguesthouse ferry ThaPhraAthit) 160 Chinese-style springrolls. Chinese-style Chakraphong betweenTh Tani andTh Rambutri. the Th Phayathai shops(Map pp128–9 ) mainly tolunchingThais buttheyhave mastered international signlanguage. Soi 38NightMarket Sukhumvit look forsignswithanimageofaduck). vendors (just khànom jiin mosqueeveryMirasuddeen day.Daytimevendors sellfresh mealsandspicy fruit, takeaway Just offTh (Map SilomatSoiPradit(Soi20),amarket pp124–5 ) assemblesinfront of theMasjid Silom Th Phra IandTh Ram Phayathai tofindsomethingeat.Arowofvendors onthe San1,youdon’thaveIf you’re tosuckmotorcyclefumescrossing stayingonornearbySoiKasem Siam Square k cold beer. Night-time stallsonTh Samsen,betweenSoi2and8,serve andgood antidote doesabriskbusinessofgrilledfish,chicken toBangkokbelly.SoiRambutri butri, postimbibingThais fend offahangover withabowlof spring rolls,shwarmasandwichesandstand-and-gulp As you’llquicklydiscover, San(Map Th Khao pp120–1 ) Banglamphu each neighbourhood’sgeneralgrazingoptions. you don’tknowthestate ofaffairsinthesupposedly‘safe’ guesthousekitchen. plate of belly, whichisoften aresult ofpersonalintolerancetochilliesorBeerChang,ratherthanatainted see. Byandlarge, moststreet foodisnotonlyhygienic butdelicious. Granted you’llgetBangkok Just tobeonthesafe thatmentallistandtossitinthefirststinky side,take avoid groundmeat,crushedice,somethingborrowed,blue–nothat’snotquite it. Surely you’ve heardtherumoursaboutwhattypeoffoodinBangkoktoavoid,right?Itgoes: EATS STREET crowds. the SindhornBuildingonTh Withayu,avillageofumbrella-shaded vendors caters tolunchtime If approachingthisalleyfromTh Phayathai, lookforthesignthatreads ‘foodcentre’. Behind 2 andonSoi7.Amiddayvendor outasmallbusinessselling ekes potsofcurryandmiles ofnoodles.purveying Lunch stallscanalsobefoundonSoi SalaDaeng night-noshing, clubbers. andstaysopenlate forthebleary-eyed Tryabusybowlof in frontoftheIrishX-Change onTh Convent. ǔ ayt AGO • Etn BANGKOK ••Eating A few Muslimvendors occupyTrokSurat,betweentheshoestores onthewestern sideofTh Go totherightofSiamSquare’s behind Scalacinemaandplungeintothealleythatcurves If you’re thoroughlyconvincedthatstreetside eatingisahealthypursuit, here isaprofileof ǐ aw, khâo phàt and (stark, white-rice noodles served withcurry sauce).There noodlesserved (stark,white-rice are alsoafew ducknoodle Quantity-loving vegetarians râat nâa (fried rice).At leastwiththestreet vendors whereas youcanseealltheaction,

(Map (Map pp122-3 dishes30-50B; ; Soi38,ThSukhumvit; (noodleswithgravy).

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(Middle Eastern eggplant dish). One plus to sharing the beaten path path the beaten sharing One plus to lunch & dinner Sun-Fri;506, river bus 56, Tha ferry h On the western side of the neighbourhood the neighbourhood side of On the western Chabad House Hong Kong Noodles hap, Th Charoen Krung; dishes 30B; Chinatown & Phahurat Chinatown & Phahurat When you mention Chinatown, Bangkokians noodles, usually prepared of begin dreaming near Th Yaowarat, lining vendors by street Trok Itsaranuphap, dark. During the after is in Sep- (which Festival annual Vegetarian around Wat and centred tember/October Th Charoen on Krung), Kamalawat Mangkon stalls explodes with street the neighbourhood and vendors. filled Phahurat, is the Indian fabric district of into the tucked with small restaurants Th Chakraphet. The soi next to the old ATM a popular samosa push-cart building shelters vendor. river Phra Athit) Tha ferry in an away tucked Israeli restaurants, running beside the petrol station, alley almost secret servesShoshana falafel-and-hum- gut-filling tasty the don’t overlook but mus plates, ghanoush is the opportunity to with Israeli travellers comfort food. sample the Mediterranean’s servesThis well-scrubbed café Israeli kosher worship underneath a Jewish food directly centre. 200B; Phra Athit) (lotus root); and the green, (lotus root); and the green, whitish in colour and formed into segments) or whitish in colour and formed into segments) or

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„ „ „ „ CHINATOWN CHINATOWN STREET EATS stalls in other parts the street of town, little of that savvy can be applied mastered if you’ve Even is a quick introduction to to the variations that appear in the night markets in Chinatown. Here and befriended these dishes, met and the dishes worth Once you’ve vendors noting. the street you’ll spot them in other neighbourhoods too.

Shoshana Ricky’s Coffeeshop Hemlock phong; dishes 100-150B; the marble tabletops and wooden gallery will grown-up in perpetually a like you feel make adolescent Th Khao San. carbo bliss with Ricky’s crusty baguettes. Plus, baguettes. with Ricky’s crusty carbo bliss dishes 80-150B; is a bread the Wonder variety of Thais prefer But you can gnaw your way to mystery. great does exceptionally good guesthouse fare. A does exceptionally good guesthouse fare. inter- all Southeast Asia’s menu covers huge the real but breakfasts, Western of pretations hot coffee. cup of winner is the chewy Khao San; dishes 50-100B; 56, 506, river Tha Phra Athit) ferry INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Prakorb’s House items that don’t usually pop up on menus. items nut flakes) or nut flakes) sauce served and herbs), both with vegetables the flavourful the flavourful shallots, peanuts, lime and coco- with ginger, Banglamphu’s bohemians (writers, artists and artists and Banglamphu’s (writers, bohemians has an eclectic cosy gem This intellectuals). try works; by ancient literary menu inspired Athit; dishes 80-200B; Athit; dishes 80-200B; with curry powder and egg). powder with curry busy, If it is too the skip down lonelyplanet.com Living-room-sized restaurants line Th Phra line Th Phra restaurants Living-room-sized point for a social gathering Athit and form BANGKOK ground floorof thisshopping centre. Seem- sion of WillyWonka’sfactory occupiesthe of afresh-meat market, thisbusyshopdoes Th Ratchawong, thisvenerable oldgalstays Th Ratchawong, pork andwontons)tobeareliable choice. to themall foodcourts,which are asubset When inShop-landia, youmustpayhomage Siam Square&Pratunam yolks). sweetened egg pancakes filledwithshredded coconutand leaves) and beans), include beforeright youreyes.Such transformations and rice,are desserts turnedintosyrupysweet ingly savoury ingredients, such asbeans,corn ferry ThaSaphanPhut) 25, 508,507,river dishes50-100B; &ThTriphet; cnr ThPhahurat concrete alley. ThChakraphetintoaFollow thesignsoff orPersianby Moghul flavours andspices. its NorthIndiancuisine,heavily influenced India isalong-runningfavourite of because Phahurat, theIndianfabricdistrict,Royal ferry ThaSaphanPhut) bus 25,508,507,river Th Chakraphet;dishesunder100B; dim sumandlunchtime dishes. in therestaurant of racewithawideselection 7493; 206ThYaowarat; dishes100-500B; alleycat. like astarved you’re tearing intoaplate of grilledprawns narrow openings,andbefore youknowit which dash every way,cars through plough Servers traysandsidewalkseating. seafood this street sproutsoutdoorbarbecues,iced ferry ThaRatchawong) bus 53,73,507,river Th Phadungdao&Yaowarat; dishes160-300B; náam accomplish anorder;we’ve foundthe tion of a littleThaito choices, soyou’llneed great demandandthere isanendlesscombina- found anoodleadventure. Thenoodlesare in characters nearthegoldshopandyouwillhave Ratchawong) Yaowiphanit; dishes50B; duck noodles. a bustlingtradeinsteaming bowlsof roast ferry ThaRatchawong) 73, 507,river 162 bus 73, river ferry ThaRatchawong) bus 73,river Old SiamPlaza Royal India Restaurant Shangarila Th Phadungdao Seafood Stalls Seafood Phadungdao Th Bà-mìi HongKong AGO • Etn BANGKOK ••Eating

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offers one of the city’s most decadent decadent one of the city’s most offers add an additional element of elegance add an additional element of elegance Set Sino-Thai colonial in a refurbished % One of Bangkok’s famous most One of JW Marriott Hotel JW Marriott Sara-Jane’s Tongue Thai Le Lys Blue Elephant setting and service is impeccable, but the pedestrian. merely dishes are INDIAN & MUSLIM Sallim Restaurant dishes 50-70B; could easily win the This open-air restaurant Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; dishes 100-250B; dinner; Skytrain Chong Nonsi) Ledishes and a homey setting make Lys a for the city’s trustworthy dinner companion snack and drink in be- expats. Some diners tween sets of backyard. in the restaurant’s dishes 250-500B; Th Sathon Tai; Surasak) building with service fit for royalty, the Blue of recipes Elephant balances the once-secret fusion. The with international the monarchy fried shredded catfish) swoops in to rescue in to rescue catfish) swoops fried shredded any sagging opinions. Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; dishes 100-200B; dinner) Isan and Italian the fusion of from food empire on Th Withayu, branch is another food. There the passion into puts more but this location otherwise traditions. incongruous food (who is married to a Thai) has built a small to a Thai) has built (who is married 38, Th Charoen Krung; dishes 150-250B; 38, Th Charoen Krung; dishes 150-250B; When you need to be pleased, Tongue Thai is at your service. The dining room is filled Thai décor. and oh-so furnishings with teak with a The menu is equally accommodating added to traditional ingredients Western few in an effort for familiarity. Thai recipes (Map pp124-5 ;

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cnr SoiLangSuan&ThSarasin;dishes150-300B; Skytrain Chitlom) this sweaty open-air place specialises inChi- this sweatyopen-airplacespecialises meal nibblers are rewarded withahuge selec- the PiedmontandTuscanyregions; andpre- airliftedis intimate; from themenuhasbeen restaurant.about thisItalian Thediningroom h Daeng Colonnade,SoiSala1,ThSilom;dishes350-550B; herbs). steamed inChinese and seafood nese-style ing stickyriceforthespicydippingsauces. erously feed two,butdon’tforget aboutorder- willgen- chicken) restaurant. Onehalf-serve whythisisabelovedto see and sprinkledwithfriedgarlicbits–itiseasy crispy ontheoutside,moistandmeatyinside ner; SkytrainPloenchit,subwayLumphini) 137/1-2 SoiPolo,ThWithayu;dishes160B; Chicken Soi PoloFried Lumphini risotto totunatartare. modern, andspanstheglobe;frompumpkin gallery. Andlestweforget, thefoodiscreative, supplied byHGallery,anearbycontemporary artexhibits, byrotating décor isaccessorised somed here ThSilom.Chic,minimalist off Daeng) late-nighters. tion of antipastoplates. Many mealsbecome Zanotti Ngwan LeeLangSuan ( opposite ). do so,savourthe crepes at ( p166 ). AndanyonewhohastheGaul to bringings prefer thegourmetchic of Yuppy Thais whoclaiminternational up- to have forgotten whatatoaster go lookslike ing fortheirflashbackintime. Expatswho of the Coffeeshop is charminglypantomimedatthe theWesternpancakes, breakfast tradition guesthouse In additiontothename-only and acigarette. Toonutritious,yousay? morning mainstayisanM150energy drink vers outsideyourhotel, parked Thailand’s Well, judging bytheplatoonoftúk-túk dri- What’s forbreakfast in theCityofAngels? BREAKFAST OFCHAMPIONS lunch &dinner) Alittlebitof cosmoSydneyhasblos- Bourbon StBar&Restaurant Federal Hotel

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Cabbages & Condoms Skytrain Asoke) of the Isan countryside, while the fiery of structure, structure, Thai music) bands play all the rollicking tunes play for the reluctant tourist. In a big barnlike In a big barnlike tourist. play for the reluctant after-dinner mint. after-dinner outreach appears in the form of a packaged a packaged in the form of appears outreach to the traditional condom, a clever alternative Association (PDA), headquartered next door. next door. (PDA), headquartered Association community the restaurant’s of A reminder prevention programmes in Thailand through prevention the Population & Community Development proceeds go towards sex-education and AIDS- ern breakfasts are all exemplary selections. all exemplary are ern breakfasts Soi 12, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 150-200B; at noon). Vegetarian, standard Thai and West- at noon). Vegetarian, ily annotated menu, and scratchy recordings recordings ily annotated menu, and scratchy Thai, classical and jazz (including an hour of compositions beginning King Bhumibol’s of Atlanta is the most grounded fashion idol in a heav- Bangkok. features The subdued diner h the gloves, white hats and pillbox ing the era of Atlanta Hotel, 78 Soi 2, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 60-150B; a massage parlour or visa-weddinga massage service, nutritious service: a more Thonglee offers curries. made rice and lovingly Thong Lee indistinguish- would be nearly wok shops, able from all the other shopfront that it is in but Sukhumvit sometimes forgets into being transformed of Thailand. Instead month; Skytrain Asoke) THAI THAI Thong Lee ‘exotic’ cuisines. esting looking glass through to view which – locals embracing occurrence a universal points on the city’s many microcosms. Su- city’s many microcosms. points on the an inter- also provide khumvit’s restaurants Italian to Arabic. While a recent arrival might Italian While a recent Arabic. to many of home, of the tastes not be craving good observationthese stations satellite are city limits, is the communal dining room of room of the communal dining city limits, is Bangkok’s communities, from expat most of Sukhumvit Sukhumvit to the the way east all stretching avenue, This lonelyplanet.com khumvit; 60-100B; mains rustic aspects of Thai food, then Cabbages & Thai food, then Cabbages rustic aspects of ‘wading’ pool; plus, all Condoms is a perfect Soi 36, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 150-220B; Thong Lor) BANGKOK 3/3 Soi 31, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 200-500B; 3/3 Soi31,ThSukhumvit; train Asoke) dishes200-250B; 20, ThSukhumvit; lots of happybirthday celebrations. and chilli-lacedoutdoor picnic tables, sauces andthe clientele Thaiwith is totally the setting style chicken. ThemenumaybeAmerican but nas, Memphis-style ribsandslathered Texas- American South:pulledporkfromthe Caroli- slow-cooked meatcreate anediblemapof the h % luxurious asthechocolate desserts. isas up agardenambianceinurbanBangkok lawn foralfresco wininganddining.Tosoak ion restaurant spreads itsguestsoutonthe h dishes200-350B; btwnSoi39&49,ThSukhumvit; Promsri, bridge pizza. nexttoyouordersthe table theprosciutto- outpost.Preparepolitan tobejealouswhen garlickywood-firedgooey, pizzasinthisNea- ofgulps downglasses blood-red wineand aneclecticandboisterousLittle Italy, crowd lunchSat&Sun;SkytrainPhromPhong) Fri, andreal sauces salads. diningroomwithspot-onwhitecomfortable Western replacement therapy:amodernbut A popularbrunch date, Kuppaadministers dishes200-400B; Sukhumvit; steak continuestodefycommonsense. andtheriddleof chicken-friedmade salsa Mexican concoctionsscore withtheirhome- fills thebelliesof all-daybreakfast cravers. Cabaret, thisNewOrleans–stylerestaurant &PhromPhong) dinner; SkytrainAsoke 2259 0328;Soi22;dishes150-300B; restaurant. makeover all-vegetarian at thisall-Italian, Phrom Phong) mains150-300B; Sukhumvit; photographyexhibits. which hostsrotating rind shares spacewithGalleryF-Stop ( p176 ), you toalong-forgotten beach vacation.Tama- concoctions willstave acoldortransport off eatery. Imaginativeat thissleek fresh juice one’s darling. every- hasbeen Thong Lor,ThSukhumvit) 166 Great American Rib Company Rib American Great Spring Kuppa Govinda Pizzeria BellaNapoli Pizzeria Bourbon StBar&Restaurant Tamarind Café lunch &dinner;taxi) 11.30am-11.30pm; SkytrainThongLor) mains165-400B; 0 26613891;32Soi36,ThSukhumvit; AGO • Etn BANGKOK ••Eating

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% around apool–inshort, theperfect place to andoutdoortables with indoorsofa seating Pickle Factory creates adinner-party mood pangphet; dishes 30-40B; Pai, youbuytickets atthefrontdesk. istherestaurant. Like Suan food stuff Baan ablockof bulk buildings selling park. Behind streetthrough andwalkpastbars intothecar Th Phahonyothin. onto thefirst Turnright market, andtowardsthesouthernend of across ThKamphaeng Phet, awayfromthe one of oldest.Take Bangkok’s thefootbridge rant neartheChatuchak Weekend Market is the Asoke Foundation,thevegetarian restau- h Yothin,Chatuchak;dishes20-30B; 4282; 580-592ThPhahon Café Asoke Chamlong’s Greater Bangkok kitchen isbestknownforitspressed duck. oured TheFrench-managed with upstarts. gentry of French restaurants inacityenam- surrounded byalush garden,thisisthelanded Nana) dishes400-900B; Sukhumvit; you have tomake forbeautyinBangkok. short of are competent, butthese thesacrifices flavours fall Sothe East-meets-West carvings. ing candles,MoorishcourtyardsandBalinese apan-Asian todiefor: setting of fantasy wink- hasa serpent, named after themythicalsea 5pm-1am; SkytrainPhromPhong) dishes300-700B; ThSukhumvit; Khet, wing beans. as ChiangMai andbasilpaste sausage with menu includescreative pizzatoppings,such withfriends.The kick backforanevening dishes150-200B; Th Ratchawithi; as passionfruit,lemongrass andlotusroot. handmade icecream of such exoticflavours there’s Don’tmiss the nofishsauce. even red, 25B). Everything isstrictlyvegetarian, coded: green, 5B;purple,10B;blue,20B;and bers only,butthedenominationsare colour- (Some couponsare printed withThainum- pons fromthewomanatdeskbydoor. offers agarden’sbountyof diversity. Buycou- dinner; SkytrainAri) Monument) Aw Taw Kaw Market Aw Taw Kaw Pickle Factory Baan SuanPai Le Banyan 0 2615 2454; Th Phahonyothin; dishes25B; 0 26152454;ThPhahonyothin; lunch Sat&Sun;subwayChatuchakPark) Maha Naga Maha In a charming Ratanakosin-style house house Inacharming Ratanakosin-style Occupying a 1970s Thai house, the Occupyinga1970sThaihouse,

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Baghdad Café Lulla Bar Illy Café Phra Nakorn Bar Beyond party Khao San’s packed the pull of To-Sit conquistador. The food is fantastic, The the beers conquistador. cold, and the soundtrack skips through are classics from the Beatles and the Cure. tight pipes and chatting tobacco on Arabic water Soi Damnoen Klang Tai; Soi Damnoen Klang Tai; Phra Athit, bus 2, 82, 511, 512) Lonely Planet has finally sniffedout, Phra Th Khao away from San Nakorn is just steps Students and arty types but a world removed. with eclec- this a home away from hovel make draw, tic décor, gallery exhibits and, the real the Golden for a view of terrace a rooftop Mount. making threshold, to cross the friend bothers who finds the place a barfly the odd foreigner moneyed Thais have joined the street parade the street joined moneyed Thais have wine-sipping bars. at chic options along Th Phra low-key more zone are Athit and beyond. 24 Th Phra Athit) Athit. wooden shophouses along Th Phra Less this Khao crowded than the San bars, and hosts a solo singer usually bar-restaurant a squeaky guitar. Illy Café by day and a 30-some- is a restaurant thing bar at night. décor captures The vintage Banglamphu’s aesthetic and egali- bohemian tarian spirit. bus 53, river Tha Phra Athit) ferry over the Khlong Banglamphu is this sardine- over This off-campus a rotating cast hang-out of Thai students has been transformed into of anybody who isn’t a Hardly bar. a makeshift (Map pp116-17 ;

couples faràng Nang Nual Riverside Pub Nang Nual Riverside and Kaloang Home Kitchen Across the street from from the street Across are all incredibly low-key and serve standard Thai dishes. For a little more fuss, fuss, For a little more low-key and serve dishes. all incredibly standard Thai are BANGKOK •• Drinking lunch & dinner) dinner) h h Ton Pho ( p159 ), p159 ( Ton Pho

is one big, mutlicultural party with every 70-280B; 90-170B; THE WATER DIET DIET WATER THE always outdoors. experiences are eating the chaos, Bangkok’s quintessential the heat and Despite res- market at an outdoor food one of the rustic riverside or at evening an entire Nibble away is a converted but a good rule of thumb in all shapes and sizes, dining comes Riverside taurants. and views of the breezes cool evening intended: what nature ambience except pier with zero second, but to run a distant tends primary draw, the food is the Because the river city lights. affordable enough been flavourwise or have either surprised us have restaurants the following care. for us not to consider a dinner cruise ( p147 ). p147 consider a dinner cruise (

Bangkok has gone through a mandatory

streak among this anything-goes circus. Even among this anything-goes circus. Even streak sip sweet cocktails at bars converted from from sip sweet converted cocktails at bars flex their rebellious VW buses. Thai teenagers streets of Th Rambutri of streets and Soi Rambutri. Beer away bottles of drain Backpackers Chang Thai- at outdoor stalls. Mixed imaginable outlet for swilling and socialis- to the surrounding ing, and the party extends The tourist strip of Th Khao San (Map pp120– Th Khao San (Map The tourist strip of 1 ) Banglamphu Banglamphu will once again enforce the curfew or continue will once again enforce the curfew to turn a blind eye. its all-night ways. Once a new gov- boozing it is unclear if the police ernment is instated, tions in April 2006 pushed Bangkoktions in April 2006 pushed back into detox thanks to the Thaksin administration’s detox enforced closing social-order policy, which 2am for clubs). But the times (1am for bars, political crisis that followed the flawed elec- City Ave (RCA; p169 ) has become an official) has become an p169 (RCA; City Ave entertainmenteveryone zone for old enough to drink. stock-and-trade of Bangkok bars: English- Bangkok bars: stock-and-trade of Irish-style pubs and yuppie clubs, while Royal down vibe in an otherwise fashion-status the city. Th Silom and Sukhumvit represent original R&R capital will water your gullet just original R&R capital will water Banglamphu has a dressed- about anywhere. DRINKING DRINKING drink in this town? The a can you get Where is one of Bangkok’s biggest fruit and produce Bangkok’s fruit and produce biggest is one of food stalls that and next door are markets, for duck curries and earn equal veneration treats. other street subway Chatuchak Park) Kaw Aw Taw Market, Weekend Chatuchak lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK closing time. untilfor somehappy-hourdrinksand stay laced yuppiebarwhere crews office come at Japanese businessmen,thisisastraight- lours withteenage cat-calling prom queens O’Reilly’s needs to be on everyone’s mapfor to beoneveryone’s O’Reilly’s needs Rambutri) Thaipopandpooltables. Rambutri) its wallet-friendly, happy-hourspecials and 62/1-2 ThSilom) Thaniya, ThSilom) Bar Barbican Silom, Lumphini&Sathon Susie Pub Molly Bar deBar Hippie deep San Khao Center pop bandsandanindoorclimbingwall. Cave trend. Here are few popularoptions: Thai factions,butyoucanalwaysreverse that alongside.alcohol issoldright divergence fromtheArabictraditionisthat with yourneighbours lands.A aboutdistant 168 seating. local bands;more mellowonweekdayswithoutdoor live bands. and chillDJs. bar hosts late-night bands. bar hostslate-night San;theupstairs views ofthehumanparadeonThKhao O’Reilly’s Irish Pub Irish O’Reilly’s Bars tendBars tosegregate intoforeigner and hefty litteringfine. the policelovetopopforeignerswitha don’t throwyourbuttsontheground– in theSkytrainorsubwaystations.And spite an smoking, butair-conditionedbarsdode- roomsonrequest.ing andsmoking you lightup;andtopendersprovide nonsmok- ure; midrangehotels couldcare lesswhere inroomsasafire-preventionsmoking meas- restrictions. then beaware ofthefollowingsmoking prowess andcanstillsuckonacigarette, toxic stew. Ifyourlungshave Olympic after onlyafew inthecity’s daysofsucking Bangkok gives the gift cough ofasmoker’s SMOKING INTHECAPITAL (Th Khao San) A Thai ‘kitchen’ clubhostingfolk and San)AThai‘kitchen’ Khao (Th (329/1-2 Th Rambutri) StylishyoungThaicrowdand (329/1-2ThRambutri) AGO • Dikn BANGKOK ••Drinking Air-conditioned restaurantsdon’tpermit Most budgetguesthousesdiscourage (Th Rambutri) Packed on weekends forThai Packed onweekends Rambutri) (Th (108/5-9 alley, btwn Th Khao San&Th (108/5-9alley,btwnThKhao unenforced cityban.Don’tsmoke (Th Khao San) Retro décor,pooltables San)Retro Khao (Th

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Brown Sugar Saxophone Pub & Restaurant Bamboo Bar Living Room Tawandaeng Beer Hall Tawandaeng Radio City Ad Here the 13th You’ll find half of Bangkok in this huge, Bangkok in this huge, You’ll find half of 1114; 462/61 Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin, cnr Th Phra Ram III) sipping German-style brewhouse village-sized pop shows. and singing with stage microbrews Birthday’ Between ‘Happy sets, choruses of tables. Another draw erupt from overcrowded is the Wednesday night performance by Fong which holds court inside a colonial-era cabin which palms and rattan lazy fans, broad-leafed of décor. odd an- jazz space of this cluttered be proud of Brown Sugar whips gles and smoking chops. to- performances that lean more up inspired wards bebop than brass. cellar, with brilliant acoustics and up-close the nightly bands. Reggae, rhythm views of any trou- and blues, jazz and rock will bridge barriers. bling language Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Th Sukhumvit, btwn Soi 12 & 14) the well-scrubbed studio-style perfection, a siz- put calibre international jazz bands of this hotel aesthetic of zle into the men’s-club on the rocks and a Johnny Order yourself bar. internationalist. being a first-class in revel tail your feathers Wet your whistle and shake a bargaining after favourite at this Patpong crusade The mas- at the nearby night market. a Thai Elvis and include ceremonies of ters with Come late a Tom Jones impersonator. social lubrication to a sufficient amount of enjoy the vacation-land cheesiness. jazz, Bamboo lounge Bar is famous for its live street concerts or shows at various Khao at various San shows concerts or street the music out check ). Also p167 (seeclubs calendar at by top-10 bands. Nightlyfor appearances line- online at can be found venues ups at smaller Bangkok Gig Guide is everything Khlong Banglamphu, Ad Here should be – lots of joint a neighbourhood cold beer and heartwarming tunes regulars, house by a masterful band starting delivered other, so don’t knows each at 10pm. Everyone mingling. be shy about Hotel, Soi 38/Oriental, Th Charoen Krung) Sarasin, opposite Lumphini Park) Sarasin, opposite Lumphini Saxophone is reminiscent of a German beer of Saxophone is reminiscent 2246 5472; 3/8 Th Phayathai) 0 2713 6048; 29 Soi 38, % 0 2642 7699; 107/3-4 Th 0 9501 6735; 18 Soi 4/Nana 0 9501 6735; 18 % % BANGKOK •• Entertainment

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Sin Bar Face Bangkok Face music venue for Thai indie bands playing for Thai indie bands playing music venue big-name performers and small-time garage and small-time garage big-name performers Th Khao San has become a bands. Of late, Since Bangkok is the capital of Thailand’s Since Bangkok Thailand’s is the capital of music industry, the city is always host to performances. performances. Live Music still offers interesting postdinner diversions, postdinner diversions, interesting still offers from flash cinemas to traditional cultural if you’re usually in bed by 9pm, Bangkok usually in bed by 9pm, Bangkok if you’re Bangkok’s nightscape looks a lot like that Bangkok’s that nightscape looks a lot like New York or London, only with thinner of Even and louder sound systems. bartenders Bangkok’s scene goes entertainment well Today beyond its naughty-nightlife image. (two fingers whisky, a splash of coke, the rest the rest coke, whisky, a splash of (two fingers each up a toast after offer soda). You should refill. ENTERTAINMENT tipple of choice. The attentive waitress will waitress The attentive choice. tipple of your glass filled to the rightkeep proportions with Coke, soda and ice) still reigns as the soda and ice) still reigns with Coke, whisky-set routine, a drinking tradition in- At this mis- to Thai family gatherings. tegral bar, the Sang Som set (Thai whisky nomered Water Bar Rangnam) and the soundtrack is conversation audible, if and the soundtrack is conversation volume scale. on the Asian ranked Central Bangkok Th Sukhumvit) but so do other crowds more interested in interested more but so do other crowds carousing. ably sneaking past the curfew restrictions. restrictions. curfew ably sneaking past the Working girls might come in with their dates and rooftop bar all noticeably lacking in the bar all noticeably lacking and rooftop and reli- industry (prostitutes), soi’s namesake complex, Sin Bar is Nana’s alter ego: three complex, Sin Bar ego: three alter is Nana’s hall, dance club divided into a pool floors horseshoe-shaped entertain- bar encourages tall tales. and spinning of ing exhibitionism the captain’s a bell, indicating of With a ring to a good-times mood shifts round, the free drinking club. ing ship of a dive bar navigating through through bar navigating a dive of ing ship The ‘friendliness’. commercial the district’s lonelyplanet.com Tai, Th Sukhumvit) Tai, and grungy, Face has a classy cocktail lounge cocktail has a classy lounge and grungy, Face attached to its affiliated Indian and Thai res- pretty taurants. The crowd and the décor are BANGKOK then fall into comatose slumbers then fallintocomatose onoff nights. but weekends orduringhot‘theme’nights, oncertain kok’s discosburnstrongandbright Bang- night. catch spotontheright theright isto electronica. ThetrickindoingBangkok ing international DJs,hip-hopandvarious All thebig-citytrends are here: clubsfeatur- Dance Clubs classic. fromcurrentmusic, thathasnowpassed to ofThailand’s mostuniqueadaptations rock carry onthe‘songsforlife’ tradition,oneof bands musicscene. Thenightly in Bangkok’s isarelicthe signature horns,Raintree buffalo country-and-western barwithdriftwoodand Yothin) ThPhahon 64 SoiRangnam, sical music. Nam, afusionbandof Western andThaiclas- 170 Raintree Pub Raintree The barsaroundChatuchak,including Ram IX) Ram a few hang-outstotapintothecommunity.The aquieterlesbian communitykeeps profilethantheirmore butthere flamboyantcounterparts, are Ned venues,listing Bangkokentertainment newsandviews,providing travel services. neighbourhood hang-outs for an intellectual and artistic crowdof andgays.neighbourhood hang-outsfor anintellectual andartistic the nightgetslater. The restaurant Hemlock( p161 barsalongTh Phra) andother art Athit are The thetrek night-hopping outatShela’s andthenmake tom-deestend outtoZeta’s tostart as with classandcuisine. bars canbefoundonnearbySoiThaniya andSoiAnumanRatchathon. (Map (Map p127 ; Soi LangSuan,ThPloenchit) Skytrain MoChit,subwayChatuchakPark) pp124-5; (Map an unprecedented amountoftoleranceconsideringattitudesintherest oftheregion. With out-and-open nightspotsandannualprideevents, Bangkok’shomosexualcommunityenjoys &LESBIANBANGKOK I-Chub .com) p127; conversation bars,suchas the best(andseediest) man Thai guppies(gayprofessionals), moneyboysandafew Westerners. Justahalfsoiover is DJ Station cruising limitsreach highway speeds. AllofSoi2onTh Silomislinedwithdanceclubs,suchas AGO • Etranet BANGKOK ••Entertainment Th Sarasin,behindLumphini Park, islinedwith more loungeyoptions,suchas If youprefer todinebefore youimbibe,checkoutEatMe( p164 ), agay-ownedrestaurant Further outoftownisamore localscenewhere alittleThai youfeel willmake more welcome. Utopia Bangkok has just started todevelopBangkok hasjuststarted alesbian-onlynightclubscenewithtwonewcomers: Bangkok’s pinktriangleisformedononesidebyTh SilomandtheotherbyTh Sarasin,where

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BANGKOK 171 Soi Cowboy on Th Sukhumvit (btwn Soi The three-storey Nana Entertainment Nana Entertainment The three-storey palatable documenters the more One of Patpong on Th Silom (Soi Patpong 1 & 1 & on Th Silom (Soi Patpong Patpong to go-go bars, and tales these about bars, to go-go places English-language of comprise majority the Cinemas Cinemas the the smog and heat at one of Get out of cinemas. For the royal treat- city’s hi-tech ment, opt for the VIP section with reclining seats and table service. in screened All movies by the Thai royal preceded Thai cinemas are bars that claims direct lineage to the Vietnam lineage that claims direct bars trade functions flesh A real War R&R era. neon. At nearby in- amid the flashing here love- bar girls write cafés groups of ternet emails to their new sugar daddies; the letter them is paper in front of well-worn piece of copy. a master something of Th Sukhumvit) forms Plaza (Soi 4/Nana Tai, strip clubs that comes complete a nucleus of is used which almost with its own hotel, for illicit bar workers by female exclusively assignations. Bangkok’s sexyof underbelly is Stickman’s Guide to Bangkok (www.stickmanbangkok .com). and one of the highest-paying options for the highest-paying options for and one of of women from rural areas undereducated the country. dis- 2) is Bangkok’s most famous red-light the beginning of back to the trict and dates prostitutes. Asian West’s fascination with an all-purpose of has become more Patpong diluter A major circus than a flesh market. (p179) on market is the popular souvenir draws in families and 1, which Soi Patpong conservative go-go couples. The remaining visited still put on erotica shows that are bars for a good laugh than a rather by gawkers hard-on. 25 to 30 21 & Soi) is a single-lane strip of literature about the city. Like most illicit most illicit city. Like about the literature run with in Thailand is trades, exploitation including mafia characteristics, people trafficking around issues workers, of HIV/AIDS. concerns regarding and health they do speak up, often When sex workers so protection for legal ask the government and jobs in a safe that they can do their environment; but these calls for regulated to the govern- workplace justice run counter profession, to the ment’s moral objections long-standing in the country is one of which . As the . As Royal City Avenue, Royal City Avenue, 0 2651 3537; 26 Soi % pp114-15 ; pp114-15 ; 0 2711 5886; 235/11 Soi 63/ Inside this futuristic 0 2252 3274; Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; % 0 2625 3333; Metropolitan Hotel, Th ; % %

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Thai favourite. Shove yourself into yourself into Shove Thai favourite. Cosy and fashionable, the Met Bar started the Met Cosy and fashionable,

Royal City Avenue Santika Bed Supperclub Q Bar Met Bar hi-so rocks to a younger beat with hip-hop and R&B to the ‘east’ and varying shades of house to the ‘west’. place coaxes a funkierplace coaxes crowd with electronica DJs and indie bands. soundtrack for more sensitive eardrums. soundtrack for more strip club- with big thumping house beats and a more jaded clientele.

to sex tourism, from sexy massage parlours to sex tourism, from sexy parlours massage Go-Go Bars dedicated BangkokWhole sections are of Route 66 Old Leng Flix/Slim ning of the block, you’ll find the following: ning of Club Astra that has graduated from teenage binge drinking binge from teenage that has graduated to good times for all kinds. Starting at the begin- outdoor table with the grown-ups. Th Phra Ram IX) the main dance hall for live bands, or squirm bands, or squirm the main dance hall for live into the hip-hop room. If all else an fails, grab Ekkamai is feeding into supersized Santika, into supersized Ekkamai is feeding a Ekkamai, Th Sukhumvit) a separate restaurant. It is a fixture on the It is a fixture a separate restaurant. theme-night calendar. name suggests, there are beds for lounging are there name suggests, with your friends, and supper is served in 11, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Nana) vodka), but dissenters charge that the beautiful charge vodka), but dissenters and has been elsewhere crowd has migrated girls. by too many working replaced Skytrain Nana) impress. The Friday night the theme nights get impress. social standing is but the Met’s most attention, city. one in this fickle a precarious Sathon) has re- club but members-only as a its career toits policy to include everyone dressed laxed of soulful sounds and sweaty bodies. soulful sounds and of samplers fit every taste: from the outdoor peo- from fit every taste: samplers floor dance tables to the upstairs ple-watching rendezvous point for the paired and the pair- and the paired point for rendezvous small spaces, Moroccan-inspired In its able. lonelyplanet.com running club. New York–style industrial chic industrial chic running club. New York–style beats and competent with groovy is merged cocktails and 40 kinds of (including absinthe building is an all-white interior reminiscent reminiscent interior building is an all-white the set from of BANGKOK seer.com) Stadium) I&ThPhayathai;SkytrainNational MBK, cnrThPhraRam I;Skytrain Siam) Square, ThPhraRam Siam Paragon, ISiam;SkytrainSiam) ThPhra Ram offers anarray of dance andtheatre perform- As Thailand’scultural repository, Bangkok Traditional Arts Performances SFX Cinema SF CinemaCity I;SkytrainSiam) Square, Soi1,ThPhraRam Scala Cinema Paragon Cineplex Lido Cinema House EGV Grand theatre.‘art-house’ Visit are olderand artier. first isBangkok’s House have plush VIPoptions,whileLidoandScala being dubbed.Theshopping-centre cinemas ies are shownwithThaisubtitlesratherthan p104. see foreign culturalcentres. details, Forcontact maypreferbuffs theofferings atBangkok’s aregun fights sometimesedited out,too. Film involves although obscuringnudesequences, film censors before distribution;thisusually foreign films are often altered byThailand’s cinemasinatimelyfashion.The hit Bangkok’s diet of locallybred comediesandhorror flicks respectfully foritsduration. isexpectedanthem andeveryone tostand 172 Phrom Phong) btwnSoi22&24;Skytrain ThSukhumvit, Emporium, Discovery Center, Th Phra Ram; SkytrainSiam) Discovery Center,ThPhraRam; Phetburi) nearThPetchaburi;rama.com; subway UMGBldg,RCA, At thefollowingcinemas,Englishmov- All of Hollywood’sbigreleases plusasteady 2 Team, film agroupofThai andtheirbloodyancient-curse-filled film-makers, made horrorflicksthatheadlinesthemainstream cinemas. The genre issoprolific thattheRonin Ratanaruang. ForahistoricalsnapshotofThailand’s cinematicnewwave, seep71. Nonzeefrom thefeel-good Nimibutr;art-freaky king ApichatpongWeerasethakul;andhipPen-Ek flicks. aneyeoutfornewreleases Keep tional, althoughcommercialsuccessstilleludestheartier have cultivated adevoted fanbaseofbohemiansandintellectuals, bothdomesticandinterna- Film Festival theatres (p148)andatart-house suchasScala,LidoandHouse,locallymademovies bringing visualstorytelling tothesilver screen. Spotlighted attheannualBangkokInternational The LandofSmilesusedtobetheSappyMovies untilanewbreed started offilm-makers ENCOUNTERS CELLULOID wonthePeople’s Choiceawardatthe2006BangkokInternational Film Festival. AGO • Etranet BANGKOK ••Entertainment But ifyouare more ofacinematicpopulist,thenyoucangorge onarotatingdietoflocally (Map (Map pp114-15 ; forshowtimes. (Map (Map pp128-9 ; (Map (Map pp122-3 ; (Map (Map pp128-9 ;

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Art Decobuildingattheedge of theChina- plus intermission; callfortheschedule. The Paris, designedthehexagonalbuilding. former studentof theÉcoledesBeaux-Arts in in Asia. MomChaoSamaichalem Kridakara,a krung wasthelargest andmostmoderntheatre opened in1933,theroyallyfundedChalerm- onstoriesfromthe based striking venue for town-Phahurat district,thistheatre provides a bus507,508) cnr ThCharoenKrung&Triphet; Map pp118-19 ; ancienttraditions,see these p66 and p69 . ances. Forbackgroundinformationabout advertisements for these events are events advertisements for these printed lákhon performance of theroyaldancetraditionsof Pin Klao,theNational Theatre hostsmonthly Na PhraThat;admission 50-100B) of research. for thetheatre at thetime wasnotcertain redevelopment in2007,butanewlocation for theatre, isset Bazaar, SuanLumNight humanlike Thepresent homeof poses. the puppets requiring three puppeteers to strike reenacting the Today hischildren carryonthetraditionof more Louis,in1985. popularly knownasJoe heroically rescued bySakornYangkeawsot, 7.30pm) 900B; IV&ThWithayu;tickets cnr ThPhraRam 2252 9683,www.thaipuppet.com;SuanLum NightBazaar, theair-conshirt incase isrunningfullblast. Bringalongawraporlong-sleeved sandals. topsor fully, which meansnoshorts,tank theatre requests that patronsdress respect- Chalermkrung RoyalTheatre National Theatre Theatre National Khohn Natayasala Theancientartof Thaipuppetrywas (aplay)and performances lastabouttwohours %

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% . For the past two years there has been has been there two years . For the past (drama), are performed. (drama), are Fights are held throughout the week,Fights al- are Ringside puts you right up on the cen- Tickets at both stadiums cost 1000/ at both stadiums cost 1000/ Tickets of the die-hard fans follow the match (or (or the die-hard fans follow the match of their bets) too closely sit down. If you’re to and two men punch watching on lukewarm the other, then 3rd-class offers kick each the crowd. of diversion between the two stadiums.ternating Ratch- adamnoen on Monday, hosts the matches at 6pm and on Wednesday and Thursday Sunday at 5pm. Lumphini hosts matches on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 6pm. pay, and the inflated price offers no special price offers pay, and the inflated service or seating. fact, at Ratchadamnoen In sometimes corralled are Stadium, foreigners long view. As with an obstructed into an area the financial for mentally prepared as you are pre- be better you’ll jabs from the promoters, fight. to enjoy the real pared subdued crowd tral action but amid a fairly Second-class gambling is prohibited. where and numbers filled with backpackers seats are the crowd. the bets from who take runners a stock exchange, the pit of being in Like hand signals fly between the 2nd- and 3rd- communicating bets and odds. class areas section. is the rowdiest area The 3rd-class the stadium, most of from the rest off Fenced Stadium amnoen Stadium pp120-1 ; 503, 509) Lumphini the talk to move plans much about central Stadium of to a new location south has yet Bangkok, for the move a date but to be set. class/ringside; 1500/2000B for 3rd class/2nd advance reservations needed for ringside are seats. Be that these admission forewarned than what Thais exponentially more prices are 4303; Th Phra Ram4303; Th subway Lumphini) IV; lákhon kâe bon Erawan Shrine

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Also keep an eye out in the newspaper for announcements of temple fairs, where folk dance folk dance fairs, where Also keep of temple an eye out in the newspaper for announcements

The Oriental affiliated dinner Hotel’s h be an unexpected visual and cultural treat and a release from the ever-present self-consciousness self-consciousness from the ever-present and a release visual and cultural treat be an unexpected of being a tourist. At have been granted hire dance troupes in gratitude. Although many of the dance movements are are Although many of the dance movements dance troupes in gratitude. hire been granted have the same as those seen in performances such as for ritual purposes, and don’t represent true classical dance forms. But it is colourful true classical dance forms. – the dancers for ritual purposes, and don’t represent music. accompanied by live wear full costume and are SHRINE DANCING a cacophony of Stumbling across the minor-chord Dusit Palace Park ( p132 ) also hosts daily ) also hosts daily p132 ( Park Dusit Palace Thailand Cultural Centre Patravadi Patravadi Theatre Occasionally, classical dance performances Sala Rim Nam

Bangkok’s two boxing stadiums: Bangkok’s two boxing Muay Thai Muay Thai the best fight it out at best of Thai boxing’s classical dance performances. dance performances. classical especially during the International Festival Festival especially during the International ). Call for upcoming p148 Dance & Music ( of doesn’tevents as the website carry an up-to- schedule. date art gallery and outdoor studios. International art gallery and outdoor studios. International also profiled, groups are dance and theatre tre) a concert hall, featuring held at this venue are 0028; www.thaiculturalcenter.com; Th Ratchadaphisek btwn Th 0028; www.thaiculturalcenter.com; Thiam Ruammit & Th Din Daeng; subway Thailand Cultural Cen- 10pm) Readers pavilion. is a Thai-style teak theatre per- classical dance about the hour-long rave rat- the food a mediocre formance, but give many dinner theatres; ing, a common trait of reservations recommended. are Hotel, Soi 38/Oriental, Th Charoen Krung; tickets 1850B; University; reservations University; for performances are recommended. music and costumes. A free river shuttle picks river music and costumes. A free Silpakorn near up patrons at Tha Mahathat, troupe’s performances blend traditional Thai troupe’s performances blend arts and folk tales with modern choreography, garde dance and drama. Led by Patravadi Ledgarde dance and drama. by Patravadi the actress, who is a famous Thai Mejudhon, 500B; Houseopen-air thea- in Thonburi, this River avant- is Bangkok’s of leading promoter tre Division ( p106 ) can provide an English-lan- provide ) can p106 Division ( calendar. guage only in Thai on placards outside the gates of of the gates outside Thai on placards only in the Bangkok Occasionally Tourist the theatre. lonelyplanet.com .patravaditheatre.com; 69/1 Soi Wenglang 1; tickets Wenglang 1; 69/1 Soi Tambon .patravaditheatre.com; BANGKOK that looklike antiques.Themajority of shop ortraditionallycrafted itemspseudo-antiques tic piecesforcollectors, along withlotsof antiqueshops keepBangkok afew authen- Real Thaiantiquesare rare andcostly.Most Antiques and shoppingvenues of smallandout-of-the-way Map of Bangkok, shopping companionis Agoodtimes makes difficult. orientation some- urbantangle since thecity’sintense canbeallsmilesandcompliments.chase elation inthemarkets where asimplepur- of to fun iselevated land’s well-honedsense goods. Thetraditionof bargaining andThai- notluxuryit comestoshopping:cheap stuff, excelsinonemajorBangkok category when SHOPPING Stadium. the Ratchadamnoen ern dishes fromtherestaurants surrounding yâang outside thestadium. from theticket windownotfromaperson rememberhonest, though, tickets topurchase and 147lb,are thebest).Tokeep everyone 135lb thatwelterweights, between (Some say are contestants. thebest match-ups between can alsobehelpfulintelling youwhich fights roster; they windows andhandoutafight visitorsants helpsteer totheforeigner ticket few reports of scamming,mostof assist- these thereyou uponarrival.Although have a been whowillpracticallytackle outside thestadium 8pm or9pm. whicharound the mainevents, usuallystart don’tusuallyfillupuntil piece. The stadiums of of to10fights is atotal five eight roundsa There Thursday atRatchadamnoen. nights atLumphiniand forTuesdaynights reserved thebest-matched boutsareAficionados say 174

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This low-slung commercial universe universe This low-slung commercial A long-standing leader in Bangkok’s fatale FLOWERING TROUBLE FLOWERING TROUBLE birds alight Forming floating carpets where hyacinths are water and garbage collects, the species was imported invasive This ments. a visit after by Rama V’s wife to Thailand in- plant was originally The to Indonesia. flower for the palace as a decorative tended fron- ponds but soon escaped to the river and spreads it clogs waterways tier, where One promising industry territory. into virgin for this aquatic weed is to dry the stalks and and rugs, which them into furniture weave and shopping stores sold in furniture are throughout the city. centres Siam Square Mae Fah Luang Pantip Fly Now ton suits and skirts. The handmade cotton and formerly involved linen come from villages with poppy production. sorn Plaza, cnr Th Ploenchit & Th Ratchadamri; Skytrain Chitlom) looks are exhibitioned by the city’s trendy the city’s trendy exhibitioned by looks are ‘Bangkok’ teens who strut their distinctive areas. look in the various shopping Phayathai) some 12 is a network of the first are which boutiques, many of teenage 4 are Soi 3 and designers. young of ventures flouncey for cute the primary shopping areas product promo- The varying weekend dresses. usually filled with giddy ‘model girls’ tions are and breakdancers. into impres- Luang ventures Fah Mae project, cot- with its feminine fashionable realms sive and Thai brands such as Greyhound and and as Greyhound such brands and Thai Propaganda. train Ratchathewi) stores software and computer of storeys five locals Many legit to flea market. ranging from and com- software ‘pirated’ to buy come here peripherals. puter Fashion & Textiles Bangkok and fashion- is a fashion-conscious culti- have city. Local designers generating that can compete scene a high-fashion vated affordable More catwalk. on the international .doitung.org; 4th fl, Siam Discovery Center, cnr Th Phayathai .doitung.org; & Th Phra Ram I; Skytrain Siam) (Map (Map cat- 0 2655

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Central Department Store Central World Plaza Siam Paragon Emporium Shopping Centre Gaysorn Plaza & Siam Discovery Center spending rituals at this temple to red hot and to red spending rituals at this temple expat salaries cool. Robust and trust classic funds dwindle amid Prada, Miu Miu, Chanel Sukhumvit, cnr Soi 24; Skytrain Phrom Phong) access to the beautiful people’s not have but you can observe scene, nightlife their selection, Central in Bangkok has 13 branches If you’re flagship. in addition to this chi-chi local hooks, look for Thai de- curious about as Tube and the Thai cosmetic such signers brand Erb. home décor. home décor. Thai fashion leaders occupy the 2nd floor, Thai fashion leaders while the top floor is a stroll through chic designers under museum-curatorship style. under museum-curatorship style. designers Ratchadamri; Skytrain Chitlom) way to the shopping centre helps to funnel in way to the shopping centre pedestrians. heat-stroked from ho-hum to extrahuge mall to extrahuge from ho-hum shopping walk- The new above-ground scene. ‘lifestyle’ being left behind in the mall race, this behe- being left behind itself has gutted and transformed moth box Th Ratchadamri Th Phra Ram & I; Skytrain Chitlom) most floors, while the majority of shoppers shoppers of while the majority most floors, pool atrium or base- hang out in the reflecting ment-level food court. centre. Astronomically luxe brands occupy luxe Astronomically centre. Ram I; Skytrain Siam) Bangkok’s malls, Siam Para- shopping est of an urban park than shopping of gon is more Asian-minimalist styles and jewel-toned fab- Asian-minimalist rics. Attached Siam Center, Thailand’s first has recently built in 1976, shopping centre for a younger, knife gone under the redesign is its new focus, hipper look. Youth fashion fashion shows occupying the with weekend central atrium. compared to frenetic MBK, just across the MBK, just across the to frenetic compared Center home excels in Discovery Siam street. the whole 3rd floor devoteddécor with to almost monastic in their hushed hallways hallways in their hushed almost monastic pp128-9 ; cnr Th Phra Ram; cnr Th National I & Th Phayathai; Skytrain pp128-9 Stadium & Siam) large central spaces dedicated to alternative to alternative spaces dedicated central large spaces. or performance art exhibits lonelyplanet.com walk, Gaysorn’s spiralling staircases and all- halls preservewhite fashion’s beloved all of 1444; 1027 Th Ploenchit; Skytrain Chitlom) garded as the all-round best for quality and BANGKOK Sala Daeng,subwaySilom) 9ThSurawong; .jimthompson.com; Soi 22&24; btwn .greyhound.co.th; ThSukhumvit, 2ndfl,Emporium, of toutshangingaroundthisstore tryingto cessories are allof quality.Beware thehighest ac- andneckties,table fabric, silkscarves tastes of themiddle-aged mamas.Boltsof Thai silkisnowsolidlypositionedwiththe with creating aninternational market for pp128–9). There (Map isalsoabranch inSiamCenter and Grey, aswellGreyhound ( Cafe p165 ). brand thatincludesthespin-offs Playhound dual citizenship,Greyhound isalocallifestyle Streetwear forpeoplewhohave drivers and (Mapping Centre pp122–3 ). There isalsoabranch attheEmporiumShop- that isslowlymaturingbeyonditsThaishores. snappy basicsdefinethishome-grown label I;SkytrainSiam) cnr ThPhayathai&PhraRam international shows. several feminine couture theeyesof thathascaught home-grown fashionscene,FlyNowcreates 176 Greyhound Jim Thompson Jaspal Thai painters. abstract Bible College; h from emerging studentartists. Unique contemporary Thai art. noon-6pmSat &Sun;SkytrainSiam) Mon-Fri, Skytrain Chitlom) in Thailand, most lookforwhattheylike. Here are afew commercialgalleriestostart: India, turningrelatively unknownnames intofamousacquisitions. buyer Butfortheaverage art to lookEast,canvasesfromSoutheastAsia willsoonjointheexhibitionhallsalongsideChinaand continue collectors world,withtypicalpricesbetweenUS$3000andUS$5000.Andifart the art a shoddilytailored suit? Itwillcostyouabitmore isinexpensive butThai contemporary for art forsomethingthatwillhave alongershelflifeLooking thantheaverage street-stall souvenir or SOUVENIRS THAT LAST 53, 511, river ferry ThaPhraAthit) 53, 511,river and Myanmar;much ofthegallery’sbusinessisdoneonline. elegant 100-year-old San. homesmackdabonTh Khao h AGO • Sopn BANGKOK ••Shopping Jamjuree Gallery Art Kraichitti Gallery 100 TonsonGallery H Gallery Gallery F-Stop Surapon Gallery Thavibu Gallery 11am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pmSun;SkytrainChong Nonsi) 11am-11pm; Skytrain Asoke) 11am-11pm; SkytrainAsoke)

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( % % ; h % % Southeast Asian–themed photographywithapproachableprices. An ambitious intersection of photography and entertainment inan Anambitiousintersection ofphotographyand entertainment 0 22183708;Jamjuree Bldg,ChulalongkornUniversity,ThPhayathai; 0 22617121;www ; ; % 9am-9pm; Skytrain 0 26328100;www 0 1310 4428; www.hgallerybkk.com; 201Soi12,ThSathon,besideBangkok 0 13104428;www.hgallerybkk.com; % ; % ; 0 26637421;www.galleryfstop.com; Tamarind Café,27Soi20,ThSukhumvit; ; % 0 26380033;Tisco Tower,1stfl,ThSathonNeua;SkytrainSala Daeng) % 0 2266 5454; www.thavibu.com; 3rd fl, Silom Galleria, 919/1ThSilom; 0 22665454;www.thavibu.com;3rdfl,Silom Galleria, Modernspiritualthemesandbrilliantly coloured abstracts 0 1623 8284; Sunset Street Complex, Th Khao San; 0 16238284;SunsetStreet Complex,ThKhao 0 26841527;www.100tonsongallery.com;100SoiTonson,ThPloenchit; Cute

subway Lumphini) & Th Phra Ram IV; & ThPhraRam pers, families,groups,teenagers, youname nanza isagreat activityforshop- night-time atthisplace. isnecessary No haggling knick-knackstothemasses. run-of-the-mill a government-operated funnelling enterprise bit onthetouristyside,thishuge warehouse is taxitoThaPratunam) SkytrainChitlom,khlong Ratchadamri; is relaxed andrarely crowded. textiles, ity reproductions, includingteak carvings, arcade of souvenir-qual- compactshops sells Th Silom) items allround. thebest prices, buttheindependentshops sell a littlebetter qualityatproportionallyhigher route. Theshoppingcentres productswith sell made piecesthatpopupallalongthetourist The touristmarkets have tonnesof factory- Handicrafts &Décor Paintings fromCambodia, Thailand byartists commissions. divert customers toanothershopthatpays Leading commercialgallery for emerging Silom Village TradeCentre Silom Village Suan LumNightBazaar Narayana Phand Behind theSilomVillage Inn,this Behind khohn Thisgovernment-backed bo- h masks andceramics.Thepace

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0 2650 3311; cnr Th Sukhumvit Th Sukhumvit0 2650 3311; cnr % This new outlet sells This new outlet products (Map ; pp122-3

Thai Gems Scam Group Gems Thai Phu Fa stall packed with an odd assortment of plastic of with an odd assortment stall packed toys, household clothes goods and polyester and with knock-off designer watches mixed mar- the food are interesting more bags. Even for brightly coloured Thais forage where kets tapioca desserts, spicy curries and fruits that devices. medieval torture look like bling and spotting a fake is nearly impossible is nearly impossible bling and spotting a fake and equipment. training without sophisticated gemstones with visions of arrive visitors Many glass. Be with coloured of sceptical and leave hotel drivers, from túk-túk recommendations and even from staff, on the street strangers might (who be in denial about travellers fellow being ripped off). expensive If you don’t buy startjewellery at home, then don’t a collection in Thailand. Stick to the bangles if you need a adornment. souvenir Markets Quintessential Thailand and all its do-it-your- spirit can be found among self entrepreneurial occupying unused alleys the city’s markets, are sidewalks. Most vendors or treacherous alongside a women who raise their children other branch in Siam Discovery Center (Map Center (Map Discovery in Siam branch other ). pp128–9 & Soi 7; Skytrain Nana) de- Srindhorn’s economic from HRH Princess The programme for rural villagers. velopment mainly kid-friendly: are Thai-made products and hand-woven purses change notebooks, textiles. Karen Gems & Jewellery Although that Thailand it is common wisdom and jewellery, the risk of is a bonanza for gems bargain than finding greater a rip-off is much Rep- 0 2629 1473; 118 Th 0 2664 8574; 4th fl, 0 2262 0729; 82 Soi 0 2262 0729; 82 Soi 0 2258 1962; 108/3 Soi 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; % % % % h A branch of a factory a of A branch for photos of touts who the temples for victims. The tourist police can tourist police can The for victims. for photos of touts who troll the temples (Thai ceramics), basketry (Thai ceramics), basketry (Map ; pp120-1

BANGKOK •• Shopping (Map ; pp122-3

(Map pp122-3 ; (Map ; pp122-3

Rasi wall Sayam sells charming 10am-5pm; river Tha Phra Athit) ferry benjarong h This nouveau design shop proves that proves design shop This nouveau .com/thaigemscamgroup) We’re begging you, if you aren’t a gem trader, then don’t buy unset stones in Thailand – period. – period. then don’t buy unset stones in Thailand a gem trader, you, if you aren’t begging We’re gem scam in which they are sucked into the prolific and well-rehearsed Countless tourists are tricked into buying bulk gems that can supposedly are by a helpful stranger and taken to a store expert in their home country for 100% profit. The con artistsbe resold (part a well-organ- of ised cartel) seem trustworthy to of the country and convince tourists that they need a citizen Guess what, the gem world doesn’t work likethat, and tricky customs regulations. circumvent worthless By the time you sort what most tourists end up with are pieces of glass. all this out, has closed, changed names and the police can do little to help. Want to know more the store www.2bangkok.comto the ‘Gem Scam’ page for or want to report a scam? Visit and navigate years’ worthfive of tracking the phenomenon, or go to THE WAR ON THE GEM SCAM also help to resolve some purchase disputes but don’t expect miracles. but don’t expect miracles. some purchase disputes also help to resolve Taekee Taekon Taekee Propaganda Nandakwang Rasi Sayam character who pokes fun at all the things our fun at all the things who pokes character is an- There impolite. told us were mothers’ toilet humour is universal. The signature char- The signature toilet humour is universal. on drinking glasses, Mr P, who appears acter, ashtrays and table a 3-D cartoon lamps is Emporium, btwn Sois 22 & 24, Th Sukhumvit;Skytrain Phrom Phong) Alongside silk products, you will also find Alongside silk products, you will also find and blue- celadon pottery small examples of china. and-white regions, this charming store has a beautiful store this charming regions, and wall hangings. table runners selection of resenting Thailand’s main silk-producing Thailand’s main silk-producing resenting also another branch in Siam Discovery Center in Siam Discovery also another branch (Map pp128–9 ). cotton handbags, totes and table linens. There and table linens. There cotton handbags, totes is stuffed animals. There also some cute are shop from northern Thailand, Nandakwang shop from northern Thailand, specialises in high-quality folksy woven- 23, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Nana) and pottery that are made exclusively for this made exclusively that are and pottery shop by handicraft villagers. Skytrain Asoke) hangings, 33/Daeng Udom, Th Sukhumvit; sure when the bazaar will be completely dis- will be completely when the bazaar sure stellar hope that this secretly mantled (and intact). attraction remains suspect that the eviction notice given to night the evictionsuspect that night to notice given may go unheeded. We aren’t bazaar vendors for redevelopment. Due to several court bat- for redevelopment. some the market, popularity of tles and the it. At the time of writing, Suan Lum Night Night Suan Lum writing, the time of it. At land set and the Bazaarclosure for was slated lonelyplanet.com Phra Athit; BANGKOK the Thieves Market thisarea to because used heard about.Thebehemothof Thaimarkets For thebudding entrepreneur, alltheportable knowcouldbe resold.bits you didn’t even equipment, spare electronic partsandother has gonelegitwith industrial-sizedcooking Kasem instolen goods,Nakhon specialise ferry ThaSaphanPhut) Chakrawat; river thanforpurchases.entertainment import-export group,Sampengis more for Unless you’re shoppingforagrassroots merchants,todominate. start (mostly Sikh) hurat, fabricshops, many operated byIndian keychains. As thelanecutsacrossintoPha- Japanese-animation gear, plasticbeeping bags, homewares, hairdecorations,stickers, itsmanymanifestations –hand- it through andfollowrow artery fromThRatchawong Chinatown andPhahurat. Pickupthenar- Th Yaowarat, thetwodistrictsof bisecting market paralleltowholesale runsroughly ferry ThaRatchawong) Wanit 1,Chinatown;river duckcurry. tasty fruit andvegetables, andisagoodspotfor Aw Taw Kaw Market, organically sells grown ofside. Onesection thelatter, knownasthe flower market opposite themarket’s southern mornings, andadailyvegetable, plantand the market. toilets are conveniently located throughout Soi 1,2and3.Schematic mapsand fices, nearthenorthernendof themarket’s exchange booths attheChatuchak Park of- centre and abankwithATMs andforeign- Therethe manyfoodstalls. isaninformation apitstopatoneoffrom dehydration and need to inexplicably suck, thenyouare suffering starts the crowdsandheat.Ifeverything doandbuy.Butcomeearlytobeat to see, bargaining skills. ity isclothing.Don’tforget totryoutyour iety isitsclaimtofame,themarket’s special- imaginablesouvenir.and every var- Although puppies fish, fluffy cocksandfighting fighting mall fashionfortheart-school fashionistas, handmade silksfromtheprovinces, extras- where –from imaginableisforsale everything way ChatuchakPark) pp114-15; Market Weekend Chatuchak ALL-PURPOSE MARKETS 178 Nko Kasem Nakhon Lane Sampeng There are afew vendors outonweekday Plan tospendafullday,asthere’s plenty AGO • Sopn BANGKOK ••Shopping h 8am-6pm Sat&Sun;SkytrainMoChit,sub- This isit,thebigoneyou’ve

(Map (Map (Map (Map pp118-19 ; ThYaowarat &Th pp118-19 ; (Talat Nat Jatujak; Map NatJatujak;Map (Talat Alsoknownas Sampeng Lane/Soi This Spread outover blocks,theBanglam- several and delicate orchids are endlessandsoinex- source. Thecolourfuldisplaysof baby roses isthecity’slargestKhlong flower wholesale Pakthe river andthemouthof Lawt, Khlong Th Tanao &ThTani; Phut) ferry ThaSaphan acrossfromOldSiamPlaza;river Triphet, Atsadang; everything you’ll need foraHalloween you’llneed everything cos- terous colours, fauxfur,neonsparklesand of cheap clothing,watches andhomewares street hasanumberof vendors allsorts selling 6pm; SkytrainChongNonsi) invariably leadstoapurchase. come here butpassingthrough onpurpose, malai sieres, items and pyjamas, household street vendors snacks,handbags,bras- selling crewphu market of attractsano-nonsense venirs are justafew options. bulk toiletries,market-lady andsou- sarongs intotheblock.Cheapclothes,luggage, deep warrenPratunam isatight of trickling stalls Considered thein-townversion of Chatuchak, Th Ratchaprarop; textiles. for kidsandgooddealsontraditionalThai intothemarketDeeper are cute clothes tume oratraditionalThaidancedrama. phàt thai street-stall gear forfryingbananas,making Thewet. market creating atemporary garden nearTha flowers andplants available atthislow-key Samsen) is alsoabigmarket forvegetables. abouquet.Pak Sancould afford Khao Khlong pensive acement-celldweller onTh thateven Market Khlong Pak FLOWER &PLANTMARKETS supplies. regional fresh foodstuff, meatandkitchen is thecheapest choice proffering all-purpose & ThNarong) appear inthestacks. perfections fromname-brand factories often thatim- during theday.Regularperusers say Tee Market Thewet ToeyMarket Khlong Si Lalaisap Soi Market Banglamphu Market Pratunam Market Phahurat TheIndian-fabric districtprefers bois- (Thai flower garlands). You may never (Thaiflowergarlands).Youmaynever You’ll find a good selection of You’llfindagood selection tropical h orgrindingcoconutsissoldhere. Beside Bangkok’s port,thismarket Bangkok’s Beside 8am-6pm; river ferry ThaSaphanPhut) 8am-6pm; river h

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But often the real problem is that the cus- problem is the real But often 0 2723 0000; www.bangkokairportonline.com) Shirts and trousers can be turned around and trousers Shirts Once you find a tailor you trust, the next If you’ve flown to Thailand wearing a suit, flown to Thailand If you’ve Suvarnabhumi International Airport port, 30km east of Bangkok in Nong Ngu Bangkok in Nong Ngu port, 30km east of Samut Prakan of (Cobra Lake) area Hao began commercial international Province, and domestic service in September 2006 after delay. The airport is designed several of years a year with to handle 45 million passengers up to 100 expansion plans to accommodate fabrics to your liking, you can supply your source. from another own material or less with only one fitting. But in 48 hours what a tailor you, it takes no matter may tell a good than one or two fittings to create more will ask for tailors suit, and most reputable sittings. two to five GETTING THERE & AWAY Air for international centre Bangkok a major is Thai- as well as being flights throughout Asia land’s domestic hub. % engage a tailor assess custom job, engage on a big by looking at pieces in their workmanship them to copy a or commissioning progress clothing. Wear the piece for of small item wear and it can withstand sure awhile to make with business. returning before tear hurdle is selecting quality fabric. Be especially is usu- cotton, which 100% claims of wary of stuff the real and a synthetic. ally a blend of Italy from and Eng- imported Most wools are land, but the stocks at many tailor are shops synthetic blends from factories outside Bang- kok. Good-quality silk, on the other hand, is plentiful. If the tailoring doesn’t shop offer tomers don’t know enough about formal attire enough don’t know attire about formal tomers to be savvysee many shoppers; the price tag a suit makeo- time to get is about and think it less for getting This is the ideal formula ver. don’t normally If you paid for. than what you no place home, then Thailand is wear suits at – stick to fun accessories to learn. Instead that – items a Chinese-stylea silk robe, dress your trip but don’t require you of will remind fine fabric or craftsmanship. for sartorial a good candidate then you’re a tailor,circles. Spend time courting as it is not well those old-world relationships one of Before you for the modern stopwatch. suited much anticipated new and improved air- improved new and anticipated much

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11am-11pm; river Phra Athit) Tha ferry

Patpong Night MarketPatpong Th Khao San Market Th Sukhumvit Market Talat Talat Phahonyothin beyond its normal value. Other reported Other reported beyond its normal value. and workmanship shoddy problems involve fabrics. inferior usually involve those wily túk-túk drivers who those wily túk-túk drivers usually involve to shops that pay commis- customers deliver the work far sions, thus driving the cost of tourists provides a lot of ‘fresh meat’ for the ‘fresh of a lot tourists provides businesses.scams Common less-scrupulous provides a steady clientele for the city’s es- clientele a steady provides tablished the continuous supply of tailors, Tailors Tailors Although Bangkok’s diplomatic corps ing more crowds than the ping-pong shows, crowds than the ping-pong shows, ing more illicit lean- continues the street’s this market Bargain goods. pirated of ings with a deluge to prices tend as first-quoted with intensity be astronomically high. 2, Th Silom; make backpackers go ga-ga. Ask around to Ask go ga-ga. backpackers make sell the best- the vendors of find out which quality CDs. CDs, wooden elephants, hemp clothing, khwan and-night shopping bazaar for the serious ‘bootleg’ Cheap T-shirts, baht pinchers. shaped lighters and other questionable gifts and other shaped lighters brother dominate for your high-school-aged and sex peddling to package at this market tourists. flick DVDs, Chinese penis- throwing stars, btwn Soi 2 & 12, 3 & 15; and hemp clothing is noticeably absentand hemp clothing is noticeably from Patpong. Khao San but plentiful on Th Sukhumvit; tional Thai wedge-shaped pillow), CDs and tional Thai wedge-shaped are synthetic sarongs. Not all tourist markets equal: porn is hard to come by on Th created haul back home – perennial favourites in- favourites haul back home – perennial T-shirts, clude raunchy TOURIST MARKETS TOURIST MARKETS an amazing knack sellers have The souvenir for sniffing arrivals want to out what new Chatuchak Park) lonelyplanet.com h pp114-15 ; pp114-15 Th K guesthouse strip in Banglamphu is a day- is opposite the southern side of Chatuchak Chatuchak southern side of the is opposite Market. Knock-offs bags and watches, stacks of skin- stacks of bags and watches, Knock-offs BANGKOK and Krabi. HatYai Phuket, ChiangMai, ChiangRai, Thani, Phuket, Thai;fliesfromBangkoktoSurat Domestic armofOrient centre 1126;www.fly12go.com; 18ThRatchadaphisek) THAI PB Air One-Two-Go Air Asia national carriers, see p755 . international destinations.Foralistof inter- mestic destinations;afew alsoflyroutes to do- The followingare carriers thatservice AIRLINES chapter ( p756 ). theTransport Thailand,see airlines serving publication. his situationcouldchange priortoorafter varnabhumi were that resolved. advised Be until constructionandsafety problems atSu- would fulfilthisrolepermanentlyoronly time of writingitwasunclearifDonMuang Thai AirwaysInternational (THAI). Atthe of PB Air,aswellthedomesticservices following carriers: One-To-Go,NokAirand at thetimeof bythe writingwasbeingused somedomesticcarriers and began servicing varnabhumi. As of March 2007,DonMuang five months later tohandleoverflow fromSu- onlytobepartiallyreopened mercial service, of wasretired centralBangkok, fromcom- ( international anddomestic Don Muang. bytheoldairportat(BKK) previously used na-poom’, anditinherited theairportcode The airportnameispronounced‘soo-wan- able tohandleAirbusA380s(555seaters). full capacity,itwillbethelargest inAsia and million passengers. Oncetheairportisupto 180 Nakhon SiThammarat. Nakhon and Phanom, Roi-Et, Buriram Nakhon Nan, Sukhothai, HongSon,, Mae BangkoktoChiangMai, airport) 8000; 485Th Silom); Udon Thani. and Surat Thani,Narathiwat,UdonRatchathani Phuket, HatYai, ChiangRai, BangkoktoChiangMai, humi airport) Hat Yai, UdonThaniandPhuket. SiThammarat, Nakhon BangkoktoChiangMai, Airport) Phuket, Ko Samui, Sukhothai, TratandTrang. KoSamui,Sukhothai, Phuket, BangkoktoChiangMai, .com; Suvarnabhumiairport) % For alistof domesticandinternational former 2006Bangkok’s After September 0 25351111;www.airportthai.co.th) (www.thaiair.com) AGO • GtigTee&Aa There &Away BANGKOK ••Getting ( % ( ( % % 0 22610220;www.pbair.com; Suvarnabhumi 1318; www.nokair.co.th; Suvarnabhumi 0 25159999;www.airasia.com; Suvarnab- (Map (Map pp122-3 ; ( Banglamphu % Silom 0 21320342;www.bangkokair (Map (Map pp124-5 ; % Mp pp120-1; (Map 0 22294260,call Don Muang airport airport Don Muang , 25kmnorth % % 0 2232 0 6

parture toPattaya, pointforbuses Rayong, when thiswillhappen. out of town,there isstillnoofficial wordon there are planstomove theterminal further and 170127(forMoChit). Although (for Thewet),507and511Pak Nam), 516 take bus30(forBanglamphu), station, Tai Mai) andisinThonburi.To reach the transfer ontocitybus3,49,77or512. take SkytraintoMoChitandbus station, expect.Toreachterminal asyoumight the leave fromhere, bus notfromtheEastern toAranyaPrathetalso and Lopburi.Buses Ayuthaya (Khorat), Mai, Ratchasima Nakhon and northeastern destinationssuch asChiang departfromhere Buses fornorthern station). commonly called Phet) 611/448; ThKamphaeng routes029362852ext northeastern pp114-15; central Bangkok. Allow anhourtoreach allterminals from There are three mainpublicbusterminals. BUS STATIONS for tipsoncommontransportscams. BusSafety ( such San.See asTh Khao p763 ) travelthan through agents intouristcentres, rather companies located atthebusstations, tobuyticketsadvisable directly fromthebus journeys topopulartouristdestinations,itis out allover thekingdom.Forlong-distance thatfan isthecentreBangkok forbusservices Bus classes andservices. classes east. See p768 forinformationabout train tothesouth,north, northeastand services istheterminus for themainrailBangkok Train tion isknownas Pathomkhon andKanchanaburi. Thissta- centresand closer tothewest,such asNa- southtoPhuket,handles buses SuratThani Thonburi) Chaisi &ThPhraPinkao, 1200; Hwy338/ThNakhon station). people callit Chanthaburi andotherpointseast.Most SkytrainEkamai) ThSukhumvit; Soi 40/Ekamai, many provincialcapitals. to 1111; 6ThLanLuang) Operatesdomestic airservices Eastern busterminal Eastern busterminal &Northeastern Northern Southern busterminal is justnorthof Chatuchak Park. It’salso % for northern routes 0 2936 2852 ext 311/442,for routes029362852ext for northern sàthaanii èkkàmai sàthaanii saai tâai mài sàthaanii mawchít Mp pp114-15; (Map

(Map pp114-15 ; pp114-15; (Map lonelyplanet.com % isthede- (Ekamai 0 23912504; % (Mo Chit (MoChit

0 2435 (Map (Map (Sai

BANGKOK 181 1681 (which charges a 20B dispatch a 20B dispatch charges 1681 (which % The public transport centre is 3km from The public transport centre curbside from available taxis are Metered Public buses serving the airport’s transport The airport express bus operates along four bus operates The airport express If you can travel by river, canal or Skytrain canal by river, If you can travel more detailed description, visit www route more .bangkokairportonline.com/node/55. include six Bangkok and three routes centre to Buses routes. to Bangkok travel provincial the following destinations and cost around Land (550), 35B: Minburi (549), Happy that is added to all fares departing from the that is added to all fares You can hail a to the driver. airport, payable for airport trips, or from the street taxi directly or by one through the hotels you can arrange calling A taxi trip from the Don Muang surcharge). Bangkok should airport into the middle of cost you around 200B to 300B, plus tolls (40B in Don’t be shy to 80B) and a 50B airport fee. on. to put the meter the driver telling between central Bangkokroutes and the air- port between 5am to midnight. is The cost to Silom, AE2 to AE1 travels Route 150B. Banglamphu/Th Khao San, AE3 to Th Su- Rd), and khumvit and Th Withayu (Wireless AE4 to Hualamphong train station. a For is too long, you can take the airport shuttle to the airport shuttle is too long, you can take the taxi stand public transport centre. at the and includes a public the airport terminal taxi stand, car rental metered bus terminal, airport shuttle free parking. A and long-term route and express running both an ordinary with the pas- centre connects the transport senger terminals. and from the terminals the taxi standthe public transport centre. at from the airport: 200B fares Typical metered to 250B to Th Sukhumvit, 250B to 300B to Th Khao San, and 500B to Mo Chit. Toll charges (paid by the passenger) vary between 20B to is also a 50B surcharge that there Do note 60B. means advance planning is a must when you you must when is a advance planning means events or arranging scheduled attending are appointments. the roads), to another (ie avoid from one point best choice. it’s always the Airport To/From the are ground transport options The following from the airport ter- directly allowed to leave taxis, metered minal to in-town destinations: bus, pri- limousines, the airport express hotel no are buses. and private If there vehicles vate or if the line curbside taxis available metered 0 2220 % (Map ; pp118-19

(Map p130 ; next to Sriraj Hospital, p130 (Map BANGKOK •• Getting Around

handles services to Nakhon Pathom, handles services to the north, north-

In most large cities, the taxi drivers are are cities, the taxi drivers In most large usually seasoned navigators familiar with out-of-the-way neighbourhood. This every many a is not the case in Bangkok where displaced farmer finds himself ploughing a taxi after in a metered the city streets - complicating failed rice crop. Further is the language barrier:ters street most acrobatic multisyllabic requiring names are tone variations that if mispronounced will bor- Even induce confused head scratching. their own rowed words from English have that ensure pronunciation. To peculiar Thai home, grab your you’ll be able to return direc- business card, which will have hotel’s tions in Thai. TAXI TO NOWHERE TO NOWHERE TAXI To get to the station from SukhumvitTo get take Hualamphong has the following services:Hualamphong has the

Bangkok Noi station Smiling ‘information’ staff to direct will try Hualamphong station Hualamphong minute delay to most daytime outings. This delay to most daytime outings. This minute The main obstacle to getting around Bang- around The main obstacle to getting kok is the traffic, introduces a 45- which GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND be reached by river ferry to Tha Rot Fai. Tick- to Tha Rot Fai. ferry by river be reached ets can be bought the station. at Thonburi) and Nam Tok. The station can Kanchanaburi bus 53. the subway to the Hualamphong stop. From the subway to the Hualamphong points (Banglamphu, western Thewet) take arrangements at ticketing windows on the on the windows at ticketing arrangements ground floor. level, which will arrange transport on a com- transport will arrange level, which all make the charge, mission basis. To skip all arrivals to a travel agency in the mezzanine in the mezzanine agency all arrivals to a travel shower room, mailing centre, luggage storage, storage, luggage shower room, mailing centre, cafés and food courts. window. can also be made at windows 2 to 11. You can can also be made at windows obtain a train timetable from the information purchases, mostly 3rd class. From 5am to purchases, 5am to 3rd class. From mostly bookings 4pm to 11pm, advance 8.30am and 4334, general information & advance booking information 4334, general 1690; Th Phra Ram IV) lonelyplanet.com east, east and south. Bookings can be made south. Bookings can east, east and (just the advance booking office at in person to 4pm). open from 8.30am follow the signs; for same-day are windows The other ticket BANGKOK riverside tourist attractions. The company the Mae NamChao Phraya tomanypopular nic transportoptions, runningferries along boat.co.th) Express ROUTES khlong Mae NamChaoPhraya andonafew interior alongthe mighty public boatsstillsurvive Once thecity’sdominantformof transport, Boat ordinary/express 5/10B,onehour) hourfrom2pmto9.30pm(3rdclass every hours from4amto11.30amandthenagain houror1½ every roughly run toBangkok Regulartrains kok’s Hualamphongstation. international terminal andtravel toBang- walkwayfromthecessible viaanelevated date anoptimistic one. of thenewairport,making2008opening ago buthassincelagged behind theprogress train linkbeganwithgreat gustotwoyears airport andthecentralterminus. Theairport the between stations ices, withstopsateight forcommuter serv- The linewillalsobeused take about 15minutes toreach theairport. will initial planning,theexpress trainservice the Phayathai According to Skytrainstation). VI,withaccessto Phayathai andPhra Ram andPhayathaisubway station) (cornerof Th withaccesstoPetchaburiRatchadaphisek, at Makkasan (cornerThPetchaburi andTh from theairporttocentralBangkok service 2008, theAirportTrainLinkwillprovide into Laos. hours;eight p491 ), aborder-crossing point border townof (454B, Poipet;andNongKhai fromtheCambodian and iswalkingdistance which isinthetownof AranyaPrathet( p270 ) hours); Talat RongKleua(187B,five hours), travelPublic buses toPattaya (106B,two have three direct optionsfromtheairport. On Nutbus. the Siam Square, orSilom,use Sukhumvit option;for Monument buswillbetheclosest theVictory If yourhotel isinBanglamphu, toyourhotel.tinue onpublictransportortaxi points,youcancon- Muang (554).Fromthese (552),SamutPrakan(553)andDon station Victory Monument(551),OnNutSkytrain 182 Trains from Don Muang station areTrains fromDonMuangstation ac- Tentatively scheduled forcompletionin If youare entirely, bypassing Bangkok you AGO • GtigAon Around BANGKOK ••Getting . provides oneof mostsce- Bangkok’s (

% 0 26236001;www.chaophraya Express piers andcost3Bpercrossing. piers are usually nextdoortotheChaoPhraya These that connectThonburiandBangkok. There are alsoflat-bottomed cross-river ferries withstopsatmajorpiers. burana toNonthaburi 18-32B)The yellowexpress lineoperatesbetweenRat- Express withstopsatmajorpiers. and Nonthaburi 27B) Theblueexpress lineoperatesbetweenThaSathon Express with stopsatmajorpiers. andNonthaburi operate betweenWatRatchasingkhon 6.40pm Sat&Sun;18-27B)Theorangeexpress boats Express piers (includingThaChang,PhraAthit,amongothers). line; itoperatesfromThaSathonto10majorsightseeing ofthelocal inservice ist boataccommodatesthereduction Tourist Local the followinglines: casional formality). to yourticket asproof of (anoc- purchase the Map p183 forroutes andpiers. Holdon See and TouristBoat(larger boat)services. yellow orblueflag),local(withoutaflag) operates express (indicated byanorange, The canal is seriously polluted andpassengersThe canal isseriously thatthisisextremewarned, though, Bangkok. runsfrom6am to7pm.Be to 16Bandservice (Map pp120–1 ) forWatSaket. Fares cost8B pp128–9 ) forAsia Hotel; andThaPhan Fah (Mapfor Pratunammarket; ThaRatchathewi Hotel; ThaPratunam(MapLert pp128–9 ) Tha Withayu(Map pp128–9 ) fortheNai and pointseast.Afew stopsinclude: useful Banglamphu town duringrush hourbetween is thequickest optionfortravelling across Thecanalservice phu toRamakamhaeng. traverse SaenSaepfromBanglam- Khlong Metropolitanthe Bangkok Authority,that operatedare taxis, by afew khlong Bangkok plans torevive water networks.There these there woes maybewith mountingtraffic and Thonburi’s alongBangkok theyears boatservices Over CANAL ROUTES to bedecided. but concessionshave yet expanding service, to SamutPrakanandthere of talk hasbeen khon, in south-central Bangkok, north toNonthaburi. insouth-centralBangkok,north khon, allcompanypiersbetweenWatRatchasing- line serves There are additionalpiers furthersouth Chao Phraya Express companyoperates ( h ( (Yellow; (Yellow; (Blue; (Orange; h 6-8.40am & 3-6pm Mon-Fri; 10-27B)Thelocal 6-8.40am &3-6pmMon-Fri; 9.30am-4pm; 18B)Themore expensivetour- h h h 7-7.45am & 3-4.20pm Mon-Fri; 18- 7-7.45am &3-4.20pmMon-Fri; khlong 6-8.40am & 4.30-6.20pm Mon-Fri; 6-8.40am &4.30-6.20pmMon-Fri; 5.50am-6.40pm Mon-Fri, 6am- 5.50am-6.40pm Mon-Fri, have diminished,but lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK 183 Park

Lumphini Th Sathon Th O Orange Express T Tourist Boat ROUTES L Local Y Yellow Express B Blue Express

00 1 mile 2 km Th Rama IV 4 12 Tha Maharat (T) 18 Tha Krom Chao (L) 14 Tha Tien – for Wat Pho & cross- river ferry to Wat Arun (T, L, O) 22 Tha Sathon – for Saphan Taksin Skytrain Station (T, L, Y, O) CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS STOPS 1 Tha Nonthaburi (L, Y, O, B) 2 Tha Phibun 1 (L) 3 Tha Saphan Rama VII (L, Y, O) 4 Tha Bang Pho (L, Y, O) 5 Tha Phayap (L, O) 6 Tha Thewet – for National Library & Guesthouses (L, Y, O) 7 Tha Saphan Rama VIII (L) 8 Tha Saphan Phra Pin Klao (L, Y, O) 9 Tha Phra Athit – for Th Khao San Guesthouses (T, L) 10 Tha Rot Fai – for Bangkok Noi Train Station (L, B) 11 Tha Wang Lang (T, L, Y, O) 13 Tha Chang – for Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew (T, L, O) 15 Tha Ratchini (L) 16 Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) (T, L, O) 17 Tha Ratchawong – for Chinatown (T, L, Y, O) 19 Tha Si Phraya – for River City Shopping Complex (T, L, Y, O) 20 Tha Meuang Khae (L) 21 Tha Oriental (T, L, O) 23 Tha Wat Ratchasingkhon (L, Y) Khae

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Khlong lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK and driving a car in Bangkok moreand driving acarinBangkok trouble For short-term visitors, youwillfindparking Car &Motorcycle andSiamSquareBanglamphu area: are fortouriststravelling useful between route mapavailable. The followingbuslines at Asia Books( p104 ), isthemostup-to-date morning. which runfrom3amor4amtomid- buses, and 10pmor11pm,exceptforthe‘all-night’ soi at 7Bor8B. plymajor Smaller‘baht buses’ Faresdistance. start forordinary(fan)buses crease byincrements of 2B,dependingonthe bus fares at10Bor12Bandin- typicallystart Air-conalso subjecttothehasslesof traffic. the newerpublictransportoptions,butare aretrain. Thebuses alsoalotcheaper than bySky- Dusit andotherareas notserviced reaching Thewet, Chinatown,Banglamphu, Authority (BMTA), isthebestoptionfor Metropolitanerated byBangkok Transit The city’spublic-bus system, which isop- Bus Monday toFridayandcost15B. 7.30amto8amand3.45pm6pm tween be- in ThonburitoSaphanPhut inBangkok and cost15B. Boatstravel Phetkasem between 8am and3.45pmto6pmMondayFriday 6.20amto between to ThaSathoninBangkok Boats travel DaokanonginThonburi between haveand Bangkok addedforcommuters. been decked andpearls. outinheels little trickyandshouldn’t beattempted when Climbing inandoutof theboatscanbea prevent beingsplashedbythestinkywater. typically holdnewspapers over theirfacesto 184 „ „ „ toSaphanPhut Bus 73:HuayKhwang PorttoDepart- Toei Bus 47:Khlong Bus15:ThaPhra toSanamLuangwith nect toChaoPhraya Express). way), ChinatownandSaphanPhut (con- Hualamphong (connecttotrainor sub- with stopsatMBK(connecttoSkytrain), Sanam Luang. and IV, MBK, ThRatchadamnoen Ram withstopsalongThPhrament of Lands Luang (accessibletoWatPhra Kaew). San)andSanam (accessible toThKhao Klang stops atMBK,ThRatchadamnoen Most of 5am thebuslinesrunbetween Two new Bangkok BusMap andcost5B. AGO • GtigAon Around BANGKOK ••Getting khlong services between Thonburi between services byRoadway,available lines. There were ambitiousplanstoextend Bangkok Mass Transit System Skytrain TransitSystem Bangkok Mass ible atstreet level. of greenery andhistoricarchitecture notvis- bird’s-eye viewof thecity,allowingglimpses tage of theSkytrainisthatitoffers apleasant hour nowtake 15minutes. Anotheradvan- of Tripsthatwouldhave Bangkok. taken an travelhas revolutionised inthemodernparts jams.TheSkytrain city’s notorioustraffic over railnetworkthatsails an elevated the Siam Square) isthe and (Silom,Sukhumvit in ‘new’Bangkok optionfortravellingThe mostcomfortable Skytrain rentals. ing Permit andpassportare required forall excluding insurance. AnInternational Driv- ataround2000Bperday, start cycles. Rates Petchaburi Tat Mai. Somealsorent motor- rental agencies alongThWithayuand % such international chains as cles canberented town,including throughout driver thatyoufindtrustworthy. and driver yourhotel through orhire ataxi private transport,considerhiringacar need tling theBuddhistapproach todriving.Ifyou cally optforachauffeured carratherthanbat- foot of SaphanTaksin onthe banksof Mae out ThSathon untilitterminates nexttothe then Silom toThNarathiwat Ratchanakharin, continuing above down Th Th Ratchadamri, after makes anabrupt turntothesouthwest, nearSiam Square,dium station, andsoon Sukhumvit. extend thisline5kmsoutheasttoSoi107,Th nearSoi81.ThereNut station, are plansto toterminateand ThSukhumvit attheOn I andthenswingseastalongTh Ploenchit south toSiaminterchange atThRama station Chatuchak Park, andfollowsThPhayathai of nextto thecityatMoChitstation, pledges toundertake theextensions. With thenewgovernment have comerenewed government andtheThaksinadministration. municipal Bangkok’s between cal infighting gottiedupinpoliti- the system butthese 2617 7300;www.bts.co.th) – than itisworth.Even long-term expatstypi- So fartwolineshave builtbythe been The SilomlinerunsfromtheNational Sta- lineterminatesThe Sukhumvit inthenorth If you’re notdissuaded, cars andmotorcy- 0 22555300;2/12ThWithayu) rót fai fáa Sukhumvit andSilom Sukhumvit . There are more lonelyplanet.com Avis (Skytrain),

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(BTS; % 0 BANGKOK 185 is available is available 1681) , motorcycle taxis % (

soi trip is usually 10B. trip is usually 10B. soi (metered taxis) were intro- taxis) were (metered phone-a-taxi At the mouth of the At the mouth of Riding on the back of a speeding motorcy- Riding on the back of Taxis that hang around tourist centres typi- that hang around tourist centres Taxis A 24-hour nation. Beware of túk-túk drivers who offer to who offer túk-túk drivers nation. Beware of you on a sightseeingtake tour for 10B or 20B – designed to pressure it’s a touting scheme goods Despite overpriced you into purchasing by still beloved the pitfalls, túk-túk rides are new arrivals. Surviving the hassles, the hairpin all part turns, and the suffocating exhaust are they may cost a bit more. to an extreme cle taxi is a close approximation in – the drivers your legs tucked sport. Keep used with shorter to carrying passengers are and Westerner the average legs than those of they pass perilously close to other vehicles traffic. Women in and out of while weaving sit side-saddlewearing skirts should and in it catching gather any extra cloth to avoid chain. the wheel or drive Túk-Túk from a túk-túk a fair shake Good luck getting a have new in town. These drivers if you’re you knack for smelling crisp bills and will take desti- and your wallet far beyond your desired for an extra 20B. Taxis are usually plentiful usually are Taxis for an extra 20B. when hours, except during peak commute closing (1am to 2am), or when it is are bars sitting requires raining and your destination traffic.in too much an to use and will quote the meter cally refuse likely more exorbitantly You are high rate. a if you walk out to to find an honest driver main thoroughfare. home; a kilometres for longer Motorcycle taxis also be hired can to gridlock; antidote journeys as a time-saving the same in these about as instances are fares traffic, túk-túk, except during heavy when Taxi & Motorcycle Taxi Taxi Motorcycle Taxi & miitôe Tháeksii signs on duced in Bangkok in 1993 and have The set 35B price is Meter’. ‘Taxi top reading 4.50B for 2km, then the first at flag fall for and 5B for 13km to 20km, the next 10km, 20km, but only distance5.50B for any over at or more; at 6km/h when the taxi travels 1.25B per of speeds 6km/h, a surcharge under – 30B to 40B tolls kicks in. Freeway minute you start – must be paid depending where places within to most Fares by the passenger. central Bangkok cost 60B to 80B. the last few passengers camp out to deliver . Thais or ‘Metro’. or ‘Metro’. Metropolitan Rapid Transit 0 2624 5200; www.mrta.co.th) rót fai tâi din rót fai BANGKOK •• Getting Around %

(MRTA; (MRTA;

Trains operate 6am to midnightTrains operate and cost

One main advantage with the subway is that One main advantage The connects the minor train The blue line connects the minor train Once through the ticket gates, follow follow gates, Once through ticket the Trains run frequently from 6am to mid- frequently Trains run the trip into Hualamphong by disembarking at Bang the subway to their Sue and catching final in-town destination. by rail, many passengers shave an hour off shave by rail, many passengers it has made the train stations (Hualamphong accessible from eastern and Bang Sue) more south into Bangkok city points. If travelling penser. At the end of the journey, the coin is At the end of penser. slot for exiting. inserted into the gate through the fare gates, buy a magnetised coin gates, through the fare dis- window or automated from the ticket connect Hualamphong to Chinatown and connect Hualamphong to Chinatown and Thonburi. 15B to 39B, depending on distance. To pass Bang Seu across Mae Nam Chao Phraya into into Bang Nam Chao Phraya Seu across Mae will extensions district. Future the Bang Yai (with access to Sala Daeng Skytrain station) (with access to Sala Daeng Skytrain station) at Hualamphong train sta- and terminates this line from plans to extend are tion. There Convention Centre, Lumphini Park, Silom Silom Centre, Lumphini Park, Convention Mo Chit Skytrain station), Thailand Cultural Mo Chit Skytrain station), Thailand Cultural Centre, Sukhumvit (with access to Asoke Skytrain station), Queen Sirikit National station of Bang station Seu, of in the northern part of access to the (with the city, with Chatuchak call the subway and is operated by the and is operated Authority Subway Subway Bangkok’s opened in 2004 subway line first ticket booths. All trains are air-conditioned, air-conditioned, All trains are booths. ticket so. heavily often Square and Siam Center. Free maps of the maps of Free and Siam Center. Square Skytrain station at all available are system the signs for the desired line and terminus. line and terminus. the signs for the desired between at the the two lines You can change double-height Siam station, Siam in front of tion booths detail the various commuter and detail the various commuter tion booths tourist passes. booths are also where you buy value-stored buy value-stored you also where are booths at the informa- available Brochures tickets. Ticket machines at each station accept 5B station accept 5B at each machines Ticket is available only, but change and 10B coins The staffed booths. from the information night along both the lines. Fares vary from night both the lines. Fares along depending on your destination. 10B to 40B, Nam Chao Phraya. There are plans to extend to extend plans are There Phraya. Nam Chao into river the 4.5km over a further this line Thonburi. lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK the world. Theoriginalstupa, which isburied Buddhistmonument in to 127m, isthetallest In thecentre of town, Sights of such efforts. skills onacommunitygenuinely appreciative yournewlyacquiredand practise language Thaiways everyday easy destinationtosee Pathomkhon atthattime. Buddhist missionaries fromIndiavisited Na- asthere isatheorythat (3rd centuryBC), inhabited beforebeen India’sAsokan period historians speculate thatthearea mayhave AD inMae NamChaoPhraya valley. Some the6thand11thcenturies flourished between collectionofdom, aloose Moncitystatesthat functioned asthecentre of theDvaravati king- Pathoming ‘First City’.AtonetimeNakhon rives fromthePali ‘NagaraPathama’ mean- first-born withinitsname, which status de- oldest city.Thetownalsoproudlywears its Pathom’sto Nakhon claimasthecountry’s city, withPhra Pathom Chediasavisiblelink PathomNakhon isatypicalprovincial Thai pop 120,657 o%ix{} NAKHON PATHOM fishing villages. markets, architectural treasures andlaid-back find ancientreligious monuments,floating vincial charms –youdon’thave togofar doorstepBangkok’s are allof Thailand’spro- trip tosomeof theneighbouring towns.At but don’thave alotof time, consideraday If you’re itching toget outof city, thecapital AROUND BANGKOK fair price. tonegotiate a 200B,makingitdifficult even túk-túk quotes often at100B,sometimes start the recent inpetrolpricesmeansthat rise quires amore nimblevehicle. Unfortunately a metered-taxi flagfallorwhengridlockre- andcheapertheir destinationiscloser than thethree-wheelerstourists. Localsuse when besideshassling purpose avery useful serve Disneyland withnohardedges. keeps thecityfrombecominganadult-sized of experiencethat Bangkok aquintessential 186 Although it seems unlikely, túk-túkdo itseems Although thetownisquite itisan Although sleepy, RUDBNKK • ahnPto Pathom AROUND BANGKOK••Nakhon Phra Pathom Chedi Phra , rising tion; & Sun) avoramahavihan; it’soneof only sixtem- temple rank,Rach- the kingdom’shighest Buddhafigures.several theshrineofa manmadetunnelcontaining junk. Withinthechedi complexis interesting Dvaravati sculpture andlotsof old Opposite the bottom of junks. some19th-centuryChinese stone thatcametoThailandasballastinthe fromagreenish sculptureChinese carved come fromthere. Phra Meru inAyuthaya. Itmay,infact,have similartotheoneinWat in aEuropeanpose the when localfamiliescometomake merit. 1860. Thetemple isbestvisited onweekends IV(KingMongkut)haditrestoredRama in city in1057andthe sackedof the underKingAnawrahta, Bagan, style stupa)over TheBurmese thesanctuary. and builtaBrahman Suriyavarman Iof Angkor,conquered the city king, But, intheearly11thcenturyKhmer time asMyanmar’sfamousShwedagon stupa). Buddhists of Dvaravati (possiblyatthesame erected intheearly6th centurybyTheravada within themassive orange-glazed dome,was sculptures. Agroup of Thaiartists report- admission 250B; Th Tesa across fromthepostoffice. a white-and-purple Salayabus;thestopison Pathom FromNakhon itself. youcanalso take walk, hitch orflagas Phutthamonthon Sai4;fromthere youcan passtheaccessroadtoparkat Phra buses of Pathom granite). AllBangkok–Nakhon fromasingleslab carved dharmawheel, high major stages intheBuddha’slife (ega6m- sculpturesthat contains representing the rounded bya400-hectare landscapedpark reportedly andit’ssur- theworld’s tallest, designed byCorradoFeroci. At15.8m,itis monthon northern large Buddhaimage standing inthewat’s Phra RuangRochanarit,Sukhothai-era a VI’s ashesare interred of inthebase the ples sohonoured inThailand.KingRama The watsurroundingthestupaenjoys hi ua Iaey Museum Imagery Human Thai Southeast of thecitystands Also of interest are themanyexamplesof On theeastern sideof themonument,in h bòt, contains anexhibition of contains lifelike resin 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) is a Dvaravati-style Buddha seated isaDvaravati-style Buddhaseated , a Sukhothai-style standing Buddha standing , aSukhothai-style wíh h ǎ bòt an 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-6pm Sat 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, isa . ǎ prang museum , whichsome contains prang wngth layinruinsuntil (Hindi/Khamer- ǎ lonelyplanet.com

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into thepark 0 34332607; Lablae Cave , BANGKOK To 187 (25km) Bangkla NAYOK NAKHON Chonburi CHACHOENGSAO Khlong Hok Wa 304 Airport Nong Chok Bang Bo Suvarnabhumi Lam Luk Ka Lat Krabang PATHUM THANI Thanya Buri Minburi 00 20 km 12 miles 34 3 Bang Phli SAMUT PRAKAN Ancient City International (Muang Boran) Former Bangkok Rangsit Stadium; Muay Thai Institute Airport (Don Muang) 1 KRUNGTHEP MAHANAKHON Phra Pradaeng Nonthaburi There are also more frequent (and afford- frequent also more are There Nakhon Pathom is on the spur rail line that Nakhon Pathom BANGKOK Samut Prakan for Nakhon Pathom at 7.40am and 1.45pm for Nakhon Pathom en route 1¼ hours) (100B, approximately Nam Tok. The return and to Kanchanaburi at 8.55am and Nakhon Pathom train leaves 4.20pm. able) trains from Bangkok’s Hualamphong of the idling buses on Th Phayaphan, a block the idling buses on Th Phayaphan, of from the train station. Buses to Damnoen (bus 78, 30 minutes) Saduak floating market from the same every stop, departing leave down Samut You can also wave 30 minutes. Sakhon–bound buses (bus 402, 30B, 45 min- at this stop. utes) runs from Thonburi’s Bangkok Noi station Nam Tok station. Until to Kanchanaburi’s line, but it was a minor commuter recently, the the line is part of because a portion of historic ‘Death Railway’, built by WWII pris- occupation, during Japanese war of oners under a increased have for foreigners rates Ordinary trains tourism-promotion scheme. Thonburi (Bangkok Noi) (3rd class) leave Nakhon Pathom (41B, one hour, frequent (41B, one hour, frequent Nakhon Pathom to Bangkok, one catch To return departures). 303 Pathum Thani Thonburi Wat Phailom Taling Chan Bua Thong See Greater Bangkok Map (pp114–15) See Greater Bangkok Lat Lum Kaeg (sticky rice Bang Yai NONTHABURI 338 Samut Sakhon Krathum Baen Sai Not 35 Ao Krung Thep (Bight of Bangkok) 340 Imagery Chin Museum Elephant Thai Human Tha Samphran Ground & Zoo

Nam Rose khâo laam khâo Garden Mae Nakhon Chaisi 346 SAMUT SAKHON Sam Phran Phra Ban Phaew Bang Len PATHOM NAKHON •• Nakhon AROUND BANGKOK Pathom Phutthamonthon Pathom Nakhon 4 Don Tum Samut Saen Songkhram Kamphaeng

Saduak Bang Damnoen Khonthi 3097 Amphawa Air-con buses 83 and 997 leave from the from buses 83 and 997 leave Air-con

To Phetchaburi (123km) Bang Phae AROUND BANGKOK AROUND

Kanchanaburi (128km) To To Ratchaburi (100km) Southern bus terminal (in Thonburi) for (in Thonburi) for Southern bus terminal

Nakhon Pathom is 56km west of Bangkok. is 56km west of Nakhon Pathom a central bus station,The city doesn’t have and departs from but most transport arrives and train station. near the market Getting There & Away Getting There & Away are many good, inexpensive food vendors and and food vendors many good, inexpensive are in this area. restaurants and coconut steamed in a length of bamboo) in a length of and coconut steamed to be the best in Thailand. There is reputed along the road between the train station and Chedi; its Pathom Phra Eating Eating has an excellent market Nakhon Pathom or Salaya bus can drop you off here. or Salaya bus can drop you off here. outside town at the Km 31 marker on Th on Th outside town at the Km 31 marker Pinklao–Nakhon Chaisi (the highway to Bangkok). Any Nakhon Pathom–Bangkok land, former kings of the , Thai land, former kings of playing. The museum is and chess lifestyles and creating the figures, which fall into four which the figures, and creating Thai- of famous Buddhist monks categories: edly spent 10 years studying their subjects edly spent 10 years lonelyplanet.com 321 325 BANGKOK minutes). Long-tail boats from any Bangkok minutes). boats fromanyBangkok Long-tail viaair-conTh bus79(16B,25 Klangor Th Ratchadamnoen from Bangkok’s ing ChanisinThonburi andcanbereached fish allproducedaboard abobbingboat.Tal- to feast on grilledshrimp, noodles andriver to thedocks.Many localThaifamiliescome and thekitchens are tethered dugoutcanoes asinformaldining rooms, floating docksserve the twistemerges atthecanalwhere several with producevendors fromnearbyfarms.But Chan lookslike anyotherfresh market busy Noi,Taling Bangkok the access roadtoKhlong less of Saduak.On pitch thanDamnoen asales markets, bus stopintown. thefloatingmarketloop between andthe A yellows boat hire isabout 300Bperperson perhour. the floatingmarket area. Thegoingrate for 1,which istheland routeSukhaphiban to tourists off directly atthepiers thatlineTh willdropfrom 6amto9pm).Mostbuses Saduak (82B,twohours, 40minutes every ern busterminal inThonburitoDamnoen 78and996godirectbuses fromtheSouth- Pathom Air-con andSamutSongkhram. Nakhonsouthwest of between Bangkok Saduakis104kmtouristy gifts.Damnoen who haven’t with yetfilledtheirsuitcases markets andisideal forthose fromBangkok to tourists.Butitisoneof themostaccessible little more thanasouvenir market catering ket is with humans. crawled ashore, step shared anevolutionary produce farmers andlocalhousewives, have which were oncelively tradingpostsfor motorcycles andcars. Thefloatingmarkets, replacing canalswithroads,andboats the past20years, Thailandhasmodernised, pieceof history.In It isalsoasentimental iconic andalluringimage forthekingdom. wide-brimmed strawhats–hasbecomean women wearingindigo-huedclothesand floating ticoloured fruitsandvegetables, paddledby Thailand’s of markets ladenwithmul- –woodencanoes photographs The ^]kfoµk FLOATING MARKETS the day. (from35B,twohours)station throughout 188 A closer descendantofA closer theoriginal floating The mostheavily promoted floatingmar- RUDBNKK • laigMres AROUND BANGKOK••FloatingMarkets Damnoen Saduak Taling Chan ǎ wngth ǎ

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7am-4pm Sat&Sun) ( (5B) does afrequent(5B) does h 7am-4pm Sat&Sun) offers offers , 100 years agoasabustlingtradingcentre in Nam Bang Pakong,Nam Bang which beginsfromWat adult 100B;hourlyfrom9am-3pmSat&Sun) sao town.FromNovembersao toFebruary, this Sothon WaramWorawihaninChachoeng- scenic venture isviaa Amore busor trainstation. Chachoengsao friedandpatted insugar). deep vegetables) and chai continued inthefoodsonoffer, such as children. Themarket’s heritage is Chinese and auniversity educationfortheirgrand- secure amerchant future fortheirchildren diligencefarms andfactorieswithenough to coins intheirpocket, butlaboured onthe many arrived andafew withonlyasuitcase of immigrantsisaclassicsuccesstale: these ofcentral plainsinsearch work.Thestory who hadoriginallymigrated toThailand’s third generation of ethnicTeochew Chinese of are and thebusinesses ownedbythesecond for localThaisprowlinggoodeats.Many river bankare mainlyaweekend attraction teeteringioned woodenshophouses onthe Province.Chachoengsao Today theold-fash- Talaat BanMai ChakPhra.and thenearbyKhlong pier canalsobehired foratriptoTaling Chan European traders inthe 17thcentury, the from foreign invaders. thearrival of Before guarding themouth of Mae NamTha Chin river testify of tothefort’soriginal purpose A few rustycannonspointingtowards the crumbling wallsof area breezy parkaroundthe andapleasant land, thisbusyportfeatures alively market Just afew kilometres fromtheGulf of Thai- Mae Mahachai. NamThaChinandKhlong itstraddlestheconfluenceofachai because ispopularlyknownasMah-Samut Sakhon pop 68,398 l}=milk%i SAMUT SAKHON frequent departures). tion leave (90B,1½hours, forChachoengsao Ekamaibussta- tures). fromBangkok’s Buses (15Bto40B,twohours,station hourlydepar- and accessiblebytrainfromHualamphong is80kmeastof land. Chachoengsao Bangkok entice hungrydolphinsfromtheGulfof Thai- brackish river isfullof stripedcatfishthat The market canbereached bytúk-túkfrom Another riverside market, atmospheric (Chinese dumplings stuffed with green dumplingsstuffed (Chinese

( h galorchi 7am-6pm Sat&Sun) Wichian ChodokFort boat tour (sweet tapioca patties tapioca (sweet lonelyplanet.com (

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189 Wat Phet Samut Wong Wian Yai train station Wong Wian Yai , in the centre of town near the train of , in the centre Samut Songkhrammodern city is a fairly Thonburi, visitors will pass a string of artificial will pass a string of Thonburi, visitors salt.seaused A of in the production lakes the area palms makes coconut of profusion considering its proxim- look unusually lush, ity to Bangkok. between the train area market with a large and bus stations. sizeable The Worawihan Buddha containsstation a renowned and river, Wat Ban Laem. called Luang Phaw image station (see boxed text, below ). The fare costs costs The fare ). below text, station (see boxed roughly departures hourly are there 10B and 5.30am to 7pm. from and returns SAMUT SONGKHRAM l}=mil'%ik} pop 34,949 pro- Klong, this known as Mae Commonly bend in Mae vincial capital lies along a sharp kilometres Klong and just a few Nam Mae to the flat Thailand. Due from the Gulf of sources, the water topography and abundant to surrounding the city is well suited area irrigation needed to grow guavas, the steady lychees the highway and grapes. Along from Wat . You can eas- . Just past the traffic circle is a fairly ordinary food market, which market,. Just past the traffic circle is a fairly ordinary food which bòt •• Samut Songkhram AROUND BANGKOK , which is known for the finely is known , which Only 15 minutes out of the station and the city density yields to palm trees, small rice fields small rice fields density yields to palm trees, out of the station and the city Only 15 minutes Samut Sakhon quickly as you enter (Mah- farms evaporate wilderness and backwater The Once on the other side, take follow it all the way through the a right at the first intersection, Ban Laem is a sleepy little station that keepsone has ever up a convincing charade that no

Sometimes it is all about the journey, rather than the destination. This is certainly the destination. This Sometimes it is all about the journey, rather than the case for taking the Mahachai Shortline to the string of gulf-side towns southwest of Bangkok. adven- The looking you take when a stab into Thonburi begins for the ture 37) bus ; Th Taksin; pp116-17 (Map MAHACHAI MAHACHAI SHORTLINE and marshes filled with giant elephant ears and canna lilies. There’s lots of peaking into homes There’s canna lilies. elephant ears and and marshes filled with giant locals go to pick up odds and ends or a shot of rice whisky for the morning and shops where commute. first segment, so work your way along the road that runs parallel is the end of the achai). This seafood to the train tracks through a dense market of fishermen’s boots and trays of tentacled which forms floating islands hyacinth, harbour is clogged with water The to the harbour pier. the big wooden fishing boats, Just beyond are for fish-hunting cranes and bug-chasing birds. Boarding the widow with fishing nets. with the day’s catch and draped like a veiled pregnant by school teachers driven to jockey for space with the motorcycles, which are you have ferry, and errand-running housewives. the station. This turn right to reach and past the drying fish racks to the train tracks and temple trains continue on to Samut Songkhramis Ban Laem, from where (Mae Klong). to Samut Songkhram, Along the route the wilderness is so dense that come or gone from here. of no- might gobble up the train tracks, so that the middle it seems the surrounding greenery the bustling city of Samut Songkhram once you reach stays that way. You’ll be surprised where entrance. by this back-door camouflages the unceremonious end of this commuter line. line. end of this commuter camouflages the unceremonious Samut Sakhon is nearly midway along the Air-con bus 976 (79B, 1½ hours) from the (79B, 1½ hours) bus 976 Air-con

A few kilometres west of Samut Sakhon, west of kilometres A few 3rd-class Mahachai Shortline train route that train route Shortline Mahachai 3rd-class runs between Thonburi’s Wong Wian Yai Samut Songkhram (ordinary/air-con 20/27B, Samut Songkhram (ordinary/air-con one hour). Samut Sakhon throughout the day. Buses also run between Samut Sakhonfrequently and Southern bus terminal in Thonburi leaves for in Thonburi leaves Southern bus terminal Samut Sakhon is located 28km southwest of Samut Sakhonsouthwest of 28km is located Bangkok. Getting There & Away Getting There & Away bus station; the wat is only a 10-minute ride bus station; the wat is only a 10-minute town. of from the edge Sakhon, take an orange westbound bus (15B) Sakhon, an orange take Songkhramheading towards Samut from the carved on its doors wooden wat by the tallily identify the figure Buddha Samut from here standingat the front. To get along Hwy 35, is the Ayuthaya-period 35, is the Ayuthaya-period along Hwy Prasat Chom Yai that called here. town was known as Tha Jin (Chinese as Tha Jin was known town pier) Chinese junks of number large the because of lonelyplanet.com BANGKOK seum admission20B; terminus of the Mahachai Shortline. There andThPrasitphatthana. Raksa parkattheintersection ofbuses Th Ratchayat 20/27B, onehour, frequent). Taxis andlocal (ordinary/air-con toSamutSakhon buses ThereSiam CommercialBank. are alsodaily anddown thestreetthe trainstation fromthe (68B,1½hours, frequent)Songkhram near SaduakalsostopinSamut nal toDamnoen Southernbus termi- fromBangkok’s Buses province andis74kmsouthwest of Bangkok. is Thailand’ssmallestSamut Songkhram Getting There&Away gardens of WatAmphawanChetiyaram. the through and followtheroadthatgoes Nam Amphawa,thenwalkover thebridge the cal works( of II’stheatri- dollsdepictingfourof Rama early-19th-century Siamandanexhibition a libraryof rare Thaibooks,antiquesfrom over set houses twohectares, andcontains intraditionalcentral-Thai ishoused seum was anative of Amphawa. Themu- Wed-Sun) the from covers thetemple’s interior anddepictsscenes baht worthof mother-of-pearl inlay.Theinlay golden teak anddecorated with60million forits Hoi Lot,isnotable Hoi Lotyoucanhoponablues receded Toget toitslowestlevel. toDon (typically AprilandMay) whentheriver has late inthedryseason shell bankisbestseen h of shellsembeddedinthebankcomefrom shellsknownas ised famous touristattraction,abankof fossil- not farfromtown,istheprovince’s most 190 minutes. Klong, ascenicjourneythattakes about45 you cancharter aboatfromThaTalat Mae Th PrasitwatthanaandThamnimit.Or attheintersectionPhuttalertla Hospital of (15B, 15minutes) infrontof Somdet Phra an Amphawa-bound bluebus(12B)toTalat that, adramaschool. Toget totheparktake gardenandbeyond isalush botanic houses ǎ Samut Songkhram isthesouthernmost Samut Songkhram Satthatham Wat At themouthof Mae NamMae Klong, Park NaphalaiMemorial Buddhalertla King wy làwt Ramakian Ramakian RUDBNKK • au rkn AROUND BANGKOK••SamutPrakan jataka is dedicated to King Rama II,who isdedicated toKingRama (clamswithatube-like shell). The Inao, Mani Phichai, inmuralsabove thewindowsand below. and h , 500malongtheroadtoDon park 9am-6pm,museum9am-4pm Sang Thong) Sang Don HoiLot bòt constructed of aversion of . Behind the . Behind ǎ . Thetype wngth (mu-

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covers more than80hectares of peaceful .ancientcity.com; adult/child300/200B; h adult/child 150/50B; -museum.com; Soi119ThSukhumvit; the Both anarchitectural andreligious attraction, rbrbT#yIRNgvik;yG hall. around 1893,7kmsouthof theprovincial reference to flies fromcrates of icedoceandwellers. nets whilewaitingforafare orvendors shoo driversfishing; motorcycletaxi mendfishing ocean. Mostresidents’ lives revolve around Meuang Pak Nam)smellsfishierthanthe Samut Prakan(sometimesreferred toas where itemptiesintotheGulfof Thailand, At themouthof Mae NamChaoPhraya, pop 378,694 l}=mixikdki SAMUT PRAKAN near theriver. where itterminates atThPrasitphatthana, islocated onThKasemtrain station Sukhum boxed text ( p189 ) formore information.The the trips (6.20am,9am,11.30am,3.30pm).See 10.10am, 1.30pm,4.40pm)andfourreturn (10B, onehour,approximately 7.30am are fourdepartures toSamutSongkhram been shapedtoreplicatebeen Thailand’sgeneral most famous monuments. Thegroundshave down facsimiles of manyof thekingdom’s countryside and is littered with 109scaled- the world, Billed asthelargest in open-airmuseum g}nv'F[ikI Ancient City destination (ChangSamSian). bus candropyouoff; justtell thedriver your andanySamutPrakan–bound mai busstation merit makers. lection of sacred antiquesthat attractmany and theheavens. Insidethebuildingisacol- of theunderworld,earth,andMtSumeru The sculpture three symbolic levels comprises whobuilt theAncientCity( preserver below ). benefactorandcultural Viriyapant, thesame Lek from Hindumythology,builtbyKhun Erawan, Indra’sthree-headed elephantmount The city’snamemeansOceanWall,a The museum is 8km from Bangkok’s Eka- is8kmfromBangkok’s The museum 8am-3pm) Erawan Museum isafive-storey-high sculpture of Muang Boran Muang Phra ChulaJawmKlaoFort Phra

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BANGKOK 191 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Samut Prakan’s bus station is a few kilo- Samut Prakan’s bus station is a few Getting There & Away Away There & Getting buses 507, and air-con bus 25 (5B) Ordinary routes (16B to 18B) ply regular 508 and 511 Nam (cen- between central Bangkok and Pak up to The trip can take tral Samut Prakan). on traffic. depending two hours, If the traffic the Sky- consider catching is horrendous, train’s Sukhumvit to On Nut station line and busesthen taking on the the aforementioned Bangkok. road heading out of outside town on the Old Sukhumvit metres Hwy. ew (7B). ǎ wngth ǎ s

AROUND BANGKOK •• Samut Prakan

Visions of Las Vegas and its corny replicas its corny replicas and LasVisions of Vegas

The Ancient City is outside of central central of The Ancient City is outside

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. From the bus station cross the main road and or red a white catch Samut Prakan on the Old SukhumvitSamut Prakan on the Old Hwy. art forms. It’s also a good place for undis- also a good place for art forms. It’s as it 50B), rides (daily rental bicycle tracted and neveris usually quiet crowded. Ancient City is architecturally sophisticated – – sophisticated is architecturally Ancient City a preservation buildings and for classical site of world treasures may spring to mind, but the spring to mind, but the may world treasures of geographical outline, with the monuments the monuments with outline, geographical accordingly. placed lonelyplanet.com