The Dolomites

THE DOLOMITES

. HA MER S . H

WIT H SI XTE EN I LLU STRAT IONS I N COLO UR BY HARRY ROUNTRE E

S EC ON D EDIT I ON

M E T H U E N C O . LT D .

3 6 E S S E X S T R E E T W. C .

L O N D O N u s t 18th 1 10 F ir s t P u b lis he d A ug 9 Oc tober 1 10 S econd E dition 9 A U THOR’ S N O T E

I SHO U LD like here to express my deep

o f to Mr . sense indebtedness my friend , W

o f l W J . Williams , the A pine Club , to hom the climbing chapters o f this book (probably the most useful portion) are almost Wholly h due . He as also rendered invaluable assist

To din . ance in rea g the proofs my friend ,

Mr G A . J . . Bryant , my thanks are also due for his kindly criticism and help .

5 . H . H . Al ay n o .

C ONT ENTS

CHA P . P A GE — I . INTRODU CTI ON AREA OF TH E DOLOMITE — R E GI ON MEA N ING OF THE T E RM DI VI S I ON I NT O GROUPS

T HE I I . APPROA CH TO T HE D OLOMITE S T OB LACH A ND THE Am pE zzo R OAD

T H E A R N VA E — I VE D I AD E I I I . u O zo LL Y P E C OR

IV I A E VA . CORT NA ND T HE AMP ZZO LLEY

CORTI NA To COLLE D I SAN TA LU CIA

T H E NU VOLAU A ND T H E S ACH S END A NK

HU T — MON TE P ELMO A ND MON TE

C IVETTA

VI P IMI E —T HE . R RO AND TH E P ALA GROUP

VA L DI CA NALI

VI I AN MA I — E E . S RTI NO D CASTROZZA TH R OLL — — P ASS PA N EVE GG I O THE LUS IA P ASS

— TH E FASSATHA L

V I I I . CAMPITE LLO TH E FEDAJA AND FA SSA PA SSE S THE S E LLA PA SS THE LAN GKOFEL GROUP — T H E GRODEN VALLE Y ST U LR I CH

KASTE LRUTH T H E S EIS ER ALP THE

SCHLERN

ix THE D OLOMITES

A E HA P . P G “ H E KARE E— T XI . T H E S CHLERN TO T R S E HE

GRASLE ITEN H U T THE VAJOLET

T HURME TH E KOLNER H U T THE — KA RER SEE BOTZE N

I T HE PE E OF T — T M AND X I . OPL YROL CUS O S

HA A TE I TI A C MM DATI C R C R S CS C O O ON ,

F D ETC . INNS, OO ,

HE VI A E E MI XI I I . T LL G S OF TH DOLO TES

H I T OF P I MIE TI A S ORY R RO , COR N , CAPRILE

E MITE - TRA E— ME XIV . T H DOLO N S SS SO T OURS I N T HE DOLOMIT E S

V I MBI IN T H E D MITE I — TI X . CL NG OLO S ( ) COR NA GROUP — XVI . CLI MBI NG I N T HE DOLOMITES (I I) SEXTEN

MARM LA A GROUP, O T , ETC . 2 I O

XV T H E F A F I I . LOR O THE DOLOMITE S

T HE XVI I I . GE OLOGY OF T HE DOLOMITES

INDEX LIST OF ILLU STRA T IONS

' ' T H E DRE I Z I NN E N F r on tzspzece F A CI NG PA GE MONTE CRI STA LLO AND T H E DURRE N S EE 18

LOOK I NG T OWA RDS MI SURI NA F ROM T HE DREI

ZI NN E N

A HOUS E I N AU RONzo .

T HE C I N QU E TORR I

MON TE C IVE TTA AND CAPR I LE

T H E CI MON DE LLA PALA

T H E P ORD OI SP I TZ E F ROM T H E SE LLA PA SS

T H E LANGKOFEL FROM T HE CONVI N BODE N .

P EASA NT G I RL O F TH E A u RONzo VA LL EY

LOOKI NG BACK TOWA RD S AGORDO

T YPI CA L DOLOMITE R OCKS

T O FANA FROM T RE CROCI

MON TE PELMO A ND COLLE D I SANTA LUCIA

MA RMOLAT A FROM TH E SE LLA PA SS — SUNSE T EF FECT A FT ER STORM DR EI ZINN E N D IS TR ICT

T H E D O L O M I T E S

C H A P T E R I

— A REA OF THE DOLOMITE RE G I ON ME ANIN G — OF THE TE RM DIVISIO N INTO G RO UP S

T is still not uncommon to meet with com

par atively well - educated people who will

ask W ar e unblushingly , And here precisely the Dolomites ? It is indeed no t impossible that there still exists that delightful person who declared that she was never quite sure whether The Dolomites was the name o f a range of mountains o r Of a religious sect ; o r that other entertaining person who remarked ,

? Ah es The Dolomites , y , I met them last ” year down at Margate .

It may be as well , therefore , to state deﬁnitely at the outset that by the term Dolomites we do not refer to any sect at

THE D OLOMITES

u se c all , but it merely as a geographi al

term . One cannot even accurately describe the

. o f for Dolomites as a range mountains ,

o f they are rather a series groups or ranges ,

or more less connected with each other, mainly comprised in the southern part of the Austrian

o f province Tyrol , though stretching in places

over the border Into Italy . S t i trictly speaking, the erm Dolomite s

geological , and should be applied only to a

o f c limited number mountain groups , Of whi h

Lan ko fel Se m the g , Rosengarten and hle are the chief ; it should not include such mountains as M M Pelm o o r M onte Cristallo , onte onte

Antelao w these are , however, generally kno n as the Ampezzo Dolomites , and as there are likewise many other groups habitually spoken ” o f as Dolomites , such as the Fassa Dolo

S so mites , the exten Dolomites , and on , it would be pedantic to attempt nowadays to limit the application of the term to those peaks

k ar e o f only which , geologically spea ing , strictly dolomite formation . 2

T HE D OLOMITES

Marquis of Dolomieu , who took his title from

‘ G Dau hiné a village of renoble in the p Alps .

i In 1 8 He ﬁrst visited these mounta ns 7 9 , and it

ul is somewhat sing ar that , while he examined and described the Tyrolese mountains Of this formation , he does not seem to have devoted any attention to the peaks near

G o f renoble , which are composed similar rock .

r o f . Dolomite is a peculiar fo m limestone , consisting of carbonate of lime and carbonate of magnesia , and is generally described as ” magnesian limestone . The district is still much less visited by

English tourists than it deserves , and , indeed , it is only In recent years that it has become at l all popular among travel ers Of any nationality .

80 18 M recently as 73 , iss Amelia Edwards was able to describe her j ourneyings in this region

' as a visit to Untr odd en P eaks and Unfr a qu anted Valleys; she gave ample reason for the comparative isolation which the region then enjoyed : the absence o f roads ; the impossibility Of traversing the heart o f the 4 RO A D S A ND C OMMUN I C A TI O N country except o n mm o r on mule - back ; the tedious postal arrangements ; the want o f

r ni teleg aphic commu cation , and the primitive quality Of the accommodation provided for travellers .

no w All this , however , is changed , and there are those who fear that the Dolomites may

o f S speedily share the fate witzerland , and be over- ru n by the tripper and the peak ” M scalper . uch has been done and is still being done to facilitate transit for the general travel ling public ; good roads have been made , the railway now runs to points from which the district may readily be reached ; telegraphic and even telephonic communication is almost universal , and comfortable accommodation may be met with everywhere . Happily the district is not yet so Over crowded in the holiday season but that o n e may still ﬁnd unfrequented valleys where o n e meets with homely hospitality and cour tesy , combined with moderate charges and scrupulous cleanliness . A dress suit is not

’ o f yet an essential article one s impedimenta ,

THE D OLOMITES and a knowledge of German and Italian is undoubtedly useful at times .

S the everal magniﬁcent roads , known as ” Dolom itenstr assen , have been recently

the constructed , and , for the most part , visitors to this region keep to the ordinary routes which are embraced by these roads ; but the pedestrian who can traverse the passes ,

K . and feel himself independent of the . K posts and diligences , may comfortably visit a great deal more of the country , and see far more o f its beauties from the top Of a for calla than from the front seat o f an auto mobile . One of the most striking features about the Dolomite district is the fact that o ne may walk for miles along a splendid road without

- meeting a single - fellow traveller ; the roads

are there , all ready for use , and kept in ex

c ellent one . order, but no seems to use them It is curious how reluctant most travellers seem to be to stray from the beaten track . To the geologist and mineralogist the DO10 mites have long been ; Predazzo is a 6known THE D ES P A I R OF TH E A RTI ST

sort Of Mecca Of the student o f geology . Mountaineers have Of recent years paid more

to attention the peaks of the district , with the result that but few of them can now be said to

dis be untrodden . It may be added that the tr ict is on e of exceptional interest to the

botanist , while as for the artist , it is at once his

su b delight and his despair . It teems with

ec ts fﬁ j , but the di culties which beset the conscientious painter are tremendous ; much Of the scenery is so unusual and unexpected that one feels disposed to regard it as wild exaggeration when faithfully reproduced on

o r paper canvas , while the rapid changes effected by the play Of light and Shade on the — diversely coloured rocks make it almost im possible for even the quickest worker to get more than an impression Of the scene set before him . Writing in 1873 in the work above men tio ned (surely o ne o f the most delightful books

M w o f of travel ever issued) , iss Ed ards says this region a good deal that holds true in the

- Of main to day . To say that the arts ex 7 THE D OLOMITES t o r tio n h are here unknown , she writes , t at the patriarchal notion Of hospitality still su r

o f vives , miraculously , in the minds the inn — keepers that it is as natural to the natives of l these hills and val eys to be kind , and helpful , and disinterested as it is natural to the Swiss to be rapacious— that here one escapes from hackneyed sights , from overcrowded hotels ,

’ ta bles d kate from the dreary routine of , from — the ﬂood Of tourists is , after all , but to say that life in the South -Eastern Tyrol is yet free from all the discomforts which have Of late S years made witzerland unendurable , and that

e for those who love sk tching and botany ,

- n mountain climbing and mou tain air, and who desire when they travel to leave London and f Paris behind them , the Dolomites O fer a playground far more attractive than the ” Alps . There are exceptions to this statement nowadays , Of course , In Cortina , notably , one ﬁnds a good many of the conditions which

’ ‘ — tables d héte exist in Switzerland large hotels , ,

- o f . crowds tourists , afternoon tea rooms , etc , 8

T HE D OLOMITES o f Of the Dolomites nor, in the opinion the present writer, are they the most beautiful . The next group is that known as the S exten

Dolom ites , as most of them lie near the head o f ex tenthal s the S , which is ituated to the

- o f di north east the Cortina strict . By far the most celebrated peaks o f this group are the Drei Zinnen , which lie at the head of the Rienzthal ; the other less - known peaks Of the region include the Dr eischu ster f l Elfer kofel and ZwOlfer ko e . Spitze , the the The third group is known as the P ala — gr ou p the Peaks of Primiero familiarised by Leslie Stephen—perhaps the most char ac ter istic mountains o f the whole o f the D010 mite region . They are situated in the neigh b o u r ho od o f P rimiero , in the extreme south of our rectangle , and include the Cimon della Pala the Matterhorn Of the Dolomites

Vezz ana the Cima di , the Cima di Ball , the

Fr ad u sta M Cima di , the Cima della adonna ,

M San M the Sass aor, the Pala di artino , the

Cima di Canali and the Rosetta , with the Vette I O THE MA RMO LA TA G RO U P di o f M Pavione Feltre , which onte is the highest point .

It is in this group , perhaps , that we meet with the Dolomite mountains in their most extravagant form ; certainly we come across the most vivid coloration in this district , and for wild grandeur and magniﬁcent scenery the Val di Canali is absolutely unequalled .

o f The next group , the fourth , is that the

Mar m olata i , which l es to the north of the Pala

Fassathal group , between the and the Val

Livin l n a o go . It is a comparatively small

o f group , but it can boast the possession the

Mar m olata itself, which is the highest peak Of m i the Dolo tes , but is by no means character istic - r e Of the district , as it is a snow peak l tiv l a e o f . y easy access The Vernel , which is

Mar m olata difﬁ almost a spur Of , is far more cult , and approaches much more nearly to the typical Dolomite form . Other peaks O f the group are the Sasso Vernale and the Punta di

Cornate . S till further to the north , extending up to G the the roden valley , lies ﬁfth group Of Dolo I I THE D OLOMITES

ad e ou Gr n r . mites , the g p This includes the

B o e s itz e Pisciad u Sella group , with the p , , the

Por d ois itz e Mesu les the p , and the ; a little to

Lan ko fel west lies the famous g g roup , in which is included the Fiinfﬁnger spitze (long r e garded as the most difﬁcult climb in the DO10

Lan ko fel Plattkofel mites) , the g , the , the Gr ohm annspitze and the Ro d ella while to the north o f the Gr Od en valley rises the Geisler

e S Ri ais Fer m ed a group , with th ass g , the ,

C011 the Seceda , the dalla Pieres , and the

Monte de Soura . The Groden valley is a favourite resort for S t tourists , and Ulrich , the principal village , almost rivals Cortina in popularity ; the Langko fel peaks are perhaps as well known as any other o f the m ou ntal ns In the Dolomite region,and certainly they give one a good idea o f a typical Dolomite . — The last group that Of the Rosengar ten

o f Fassathal lies directlywest the , and forms a

- well known feature Of the view from Botzen .

r Va olet -thiir rne It contains the celeb ated j , the

Dela o - Rosen ar tens itze g thurm , the g p , the 12 IMP RESSIONS OF T HE D I STR I CT

Tscham ins itz e Kesselko el p , the g , the Anter m o ako el Ro thwan d j g , and the ; while to the

- north west lies the Schler n . It is from Botzen that o n e Of the celebrated Dolomiten

r strassen sta ts , and from here a good many travellers begin their journey into the Dolom ite country ; It is the endeavour Of the present writer to give some account of the impressions received on a visit to the district above indicated . Perhaps some apology should be made for the personal note which obtrudes itself from time

is ex to time , but it hoped that the actual

er ienc es o f p two ordinary , average individuals may prove of some interest to the general reader .

I 3 CHAPTER II

THE APP ROACH TO THE D OLOMITE S TOBLACH AND THE AMPE ZZO ROAD

NARROW valley ﬂanked on either side i by huge mountains which rise up , sternly forbidding , like the outposts of an i ll army , barr ng the entrance to some ha owed

u spot . This is , s rely , the ﬁtting place at

’ which one should make one s acquaintanc e with the Dolomites .

o f ’ From Botzen the View the Rosengarten ,

ul is wonderf as it , seems altogether unreal the peaks are s o far away that o ne can scarcely

the a believe in them , one has impression th t a closer acquaintance may dispel some of the mystery ; while at Primiero , the contrast between the luxuriant Italian vegetation and o — the Sharp , barren r cks is too abrupt the surprise is s o great that one can hardly ap pr eciate the wonder of the scene . 14 TOB L A C H

But Toblach , situated at the head of the

HOhl nsteiner o f e Thal , is the proper gateway the Dolomites . Here we see the typical Dolo M mite ountains , the forms and colours with

to which we are become familiar, but the

as eccentricities are not too pronounced yet ,

no t there is too much for the mind to take in . The village o f Toblach itself lies modestly retired from the intrusive railway which runs

P u ster thal along the , as if it wished to have no part o r lot with the busy crowd o f tourists and sightseers who come from all quarters o f the globe But around the station is another — village Of hotels busy with motor cars , diligences and carriages—for Toblach is the starting- point of one o f the great roads which traverse the Dolomite country . The ﬁrst impression that we get o f these mountains is that o f their size ; they strike u s as being on a grander scale than we had

. o supposed Perhaps , because we had heard s much about the colour and weird forms o f

the peaks , we had overlooked their magnitude , but whatever the reason , there is no doubt I S T HE D OLOMITES

o f that the ﬁrst sight these huge monsters ,

m the rising sheer fro valley , is wonderfully impressive . Toblach stands at an altitude of nearly

000 - 4 feet above sea level , at the point where the HOhlensteiner valley branches off from l the Pu ster tha . On the right is the Sarl

' ’ o n the Neu n er kofel (7749 feet) , and the left

8 18 n kofel ( 4 feet) , which stand like se tinels i guarding the pass on either side , wh le one M n gets a glimpse of onte Pia , apparently clos f ing up the end o the valley . d We reache Toblach in the afternoon and , after hastily depositing o u r baggage in a

ou r l hotel , made way up a sma l hill in the i immediate v cinity, to get some idea of the country that lay before us . We had anticipated that it would be only at sunse t or sunrise (principally the former) that we should see the extraordinar y effects for which the Dolomites are famed , and that seen in the bright noonday su n they woul d m appear to be uch as other mountains are . But no light can “ ever make your Dolomite I 6

T HE D OLOMITES

On The mountains close in either side , and o ne is able to a ppreciate for the ﬁrst time some of the extraordinary colours o f which so much has been heard .

The delicacy Of the colouring is exquisite ;

o f o f the tops some of the peaks are a soft ,

one silvery grey , resembling the bloom sees o n on fruit , while here and there the ledges below appear Splashes o f delicate yellow or fawn colour . In the clear atmosphere it seems as if every niche a n d crevice were dis c er nib le f of , and the whole e fect is that ex

u isitel - e on q y designed ﬁligree work , xecuted a stupendous scale .

o It must be confessed , h wever , that , gener

r o f D010 ally speaking , the ﬁrst imp ession the mites is that they are frankly impossible ; no such mountains were ever seen before and surely will never be seen again ; they seem to

f to de y all rules , conform in no way to any

o f method , they assume all sorts weird and

e grotesqu shapes , and their colouring is almost inconceivable . — — At Landro or Hohlenstein the Schwarze 18

MON TE C R I ST A LLO

Rien z Off t o Valley branches the left , and here w e o f catch sight the celebrated Drei Zinnen , to which we shall return later We secured rooms at the inn and then set forth with ou r lunch in o u r pockets to pass j udgment upon o ne of the most celebrated views o f the dis t r ict— Monte Cristallo from the Diir r en See . The green waters of the lake in the fore

o f M g round , with the huge mass onte Cristallo ,

P o ena M Piz p , and onte Cristallino at the i . M back , form a striking p cture onte Cris t allo feet) is o n e o f the few Dolomite

o f peaks that can boast a glacier , and this is — o nly a little one most o f the mountains bein g too ae pt and pointed in their formation

o f n to allow even snow o their slopes . Seen from the Diir r en See Cristallo displays this glacier to full advantage , and its ledges s prinkled with snow give it an aspect much more like that o f the Swiss Alps than do the m ajority o f the Dolomite mountains . From

o r the opposite Side , however, at Tre Croci C ortina , it looks like a typical Dolomite ; the peaks are j agged and broken . no snow is to be I 9 THE D OLOMITES

o f seen , and the appearance the mountain is so different that it is difﬁcult to realise that one is looking at the same peak as the o ne seen

‘

Diir r en See . over the This characteristic , b - — o f y the bye , is noticeable in many the Dolomite mountains ; seen from different points of View they assume entirely different — aspects the whole character o f the mountain seems to change .

P o ena on The Piz p feet) , which is the left o f Monte Cristallo as one looks from

Diir r en See e the , presents a very usual typ of formation ; it is something like a series of

o r columns pillars , surmounted by a rounded to — a m on p formation one eets with later , on

B o e a larger scale , in the Sella group and the spitze .

r so We spent a ve y proﬁtable hour or here , the artist in making a sketch and the author in devising similes suitable for the strangely

s o u r shaped peak , when peaceful occupation

u s was interrupted by a soldier , who informed that sketching and photographing were strictly

end eav forbidden in these parts , We vainly 20 THE A MPEZ Z O ROA D o u r ed to appeal to his feelings , pointing out that we were not in any way desirous of pene t r atin g state secrets , and assuring him that w Art ( ith a capital A) was cosmopolitan , but

ﬁrm he was , and insisted that his orders

a o f . llowed no exceptions Accordingly , as the sketch was practically ﬁnished and two excellent photographs had already been taken

su b before he appeared upon the scene , we m itted and made ou r way back to ou r inn . Soon after passing the Diir r en See the road

S o f reaches chluderbach , at the mouth the

P o n l Val pe a . It is a vi lage much frequented in summer by tourists and beautifully situated . To the right is the magniﬁcent mass o f Croda

Gaisl Rossa , or Hohe feet) , which introduces us for the ﬁrst time to another — colour in the rocks a rich red .

Passing Ospitale , a small village at the base o f Zu o hi the Crepa di g , the road then enters the Ampezzo valley proper and descends b e tween Tofana on the right and P o m agognon o n the left to Cortina . From Schluderbach o ne may diverge to the 2 1 THE D OLOMITES left and traverse the Val Popena to Lake

M - fr e isurina , another celebrated and much

u ented i q spot in th s district , where several large hotels have been erected o n the Shores

o f of the lake for the accommodation visitors . A much more interesting way of approaching

M o ff the isurina See , however , is to branch at

’ Landro up the Rienz valley and make one s way up to the Drei Zinnen Hiitte and thence t o k . down the la e This route is , of course , only practicable for pedestrians , but it is only by traversing these lonely valleys and by diverging from the beaten track that the full beauties o f the country can be appreciated .

o n We adopted this route , and started early

ni a brilliantly ﬁne mor ng up the long , hot

Ri o f enz valley . The view the celebrated

Drei Zinnen all the way up was most imposing .

The Drei Zinnen , or Three Pinnacles , are

s ll huge ma ses of rock , mainly ye ow in tint , but splashed with black in a very curious way ; they are undoubtedly admirably adapted for dealing with clouds so as to use them in the most effective manner . The three masses 2 2

THE D OLOMITES

Rienz thal up the they dominated the scene ,

- own like an actor manager on his stage , but every moment they presented a different — l aspect now a most hidden in white , ﬁlmy

o u t cloud , now standing clear and bright , sharp in outline against a brilliant sky , and again looming dark and threatening in front

- o f a background o f heavy storm clouds .

These rapid changes , while they are the wonder and admiration of the ordinary observer , are t the despair of the artist , for he realises tha unless he is possess ed of the speed o f a cine m at o r a h or o f g p , the memory a photographic

o f plate , the task reproducing a faithful picture of any given scene is rendered ex

e i nall c pt o y difficult . On the way up towards the hut we saw

o f r owrn In numbers bright yellow poppies , g g what seemed to be most unpromising soil ,

b u t and also plen tv o f gentian . As the was neared the weather grew more and more threatening , and j ust before it was reached

- heavy rain drops began to fall . We were a o f ble , however, to gain the shelter the hut in 24 A TH UN DE RSTORM

time , and to witness , from a comfortable seat , the magniﬁcent spectacle o f a thunderstorm raging in the high mountains . For a while the whole landscape was blotted o u t by the driving , heavy rain , and subsequent arrivals , less fortunate than ourselves , came in soaked to the skin . In the comparatively narrow amphitheatre opposite the cliffs o f the Drei Zinnen the thunder reverberated with tremendous effect , and the sound was thrown back from cliff to cliff until it seemed to be o ne continuous roar .

The storm soon passed , however , and we were able to go ou t and enjoy the scene . The hut is situated on a saddle (7897 feet above s ea-level) commanding a wonderful panoramic view . Directly opposite rise the gaunt cliffs o f the Drei Zinnen , huge , bare and forbidding ; away down the valley to the west lies Croda

Rossa , now glistening in the sunlight , and displaying the charms o f its wonderfully rich colouring ; a little to the left is the Monte

Cristallo group , while to the east , j ust below the saddle , are two bright blue lakes , the 2 5 T HE D OLOMITES

S Boden een , with the sunny Altenstein valley beyond . Mindful o f our experience at Landro with

r the sent y , and seeing that even up in this desolate region the military authorities were apparently nervous of spies (for there were notices just outside the hut forbidding

s sketching and photography) , we were care . ful to conﬁne ou r operations to o u r bed rooms , whence we obtained some promising material . All the afternoon the scene constantly shifted and revealed new and unexpected

was su n beauties , but the climax reached at

set . c The louds , at the proper moment ,

s obligingly began to clear away , and it eemed as if Nature had determined to provide a vie w suited to every mood . It was impossible to lo ok down on the m o f ighty mass Croda Rossa , with the sun shining full upon it and making it aﬁr e with li vivid bril ance , and not feel that all the hopes o f the most incurable optimist were more than j ustiﬁed . It was on this scene that the artist 2 6 A S UN SET S CENE

i ind u l dwelt , revell ng in subtle changes and g ing to the full his taste for colour . On the other hand the pessimist could ﬁnd

” a scene exactly to his liking to the east , where o n e could not b u t feel the gloomiest fore

the bodings ; valley dark and forbidding , the snow on the peaks above o f an almost ghastly

o f blue , and presently a thin veil cold rain swept up from below and Shut o u t the brighter

- landscape beyond . Fresh colour schemes and new methods o f treating each subject were evolved every moment with lavish m u niﬁ

o f cence , until at last , when it seemed the eye the spectator could stand no more , as if at a given signal a curtain o f grey cloud rose slowly from the valleys below and blotted out the peaks , leaving only a faint suggestion here and

o f there what , a few moments before , had been so overwhelming . In the morning the Drei Zinnen were again standing clear and sharp against a cloudless s k y , and they seemed in the bright sunlight to be robbed o f all their terrors . The middle peak is both the highest (9850 feet) and the 2 7 THE D OLOMITES

o f 020 easiest ascent , the Kleine Zinne (9 fﬁ feet) is the most di cult , but they are all

suitable only for the expert climber . We watched one traveller (it is to be hoped that he came u nder this category) starting up the Z t Kleine inne wi h his guide , but before very — long he was o u t of sight hidden in a ” chimney . An easy walk over the Forcella Lavar ed o and the Forcella Lu ngier es took us down to M the isurina See , from which is obtained one

- o f the best known views o f the Drei Zinnen . Here again we realised what wonderfully different aspects the Dolomites wear when viewed from different standpoints . As seen

M o f from the isurina See , the Drei Zinnen ( which on e sees here only two peaks) lose all the threatening maj esty they assume to those

r Rienz thal who view them f om the , and look like nothing so much as a gloriﬁed blanc

o ut mange , neatly turned and powdered with

s e - ca t r sugar . The View to the west , compris

Sor a iss ing the huge masses of p feet) , Mar m ar ole (9620 feet) and Antelao 2 é

THE D OLOMITES M right onte Cristallo rises , abrupt and jagged , while in the distance are seen the snow slopes o f Mar m olata o f , the highest all the Dolomite peaks . By careful management we were enabled to take some photog raphs of S or apiss o n ou r way up to Tre Croci the grey rock and patches of snow , with the brilliant sunlit clouds drifting across them , seen throug h the dark pines , f a forded subjects too good to be neglected , s o while o ne kept watch fo r the interfering soldiery the other took a picture . From Tre Croci a good carriage- road runs

o f down into Cortina, with magniﬁcent views

Nu volau Tofana , , Croda da Lago and Cinque

Torri all the way .

We had determined , however , to stay at

on Tre Croci , and go from there to the Auronzo valley . Accordingly we walked only a short distance down the Cortina road and r eturned

o r to u inn .

30 CHAPTER III

THE A u RONzo VALLE Y— P IEVE DI CA D ORE

OLITUDE in a crowd is generally su p

o f posed to be solitude the worst kind , but it would be difﬁcult to imagine any sense o f greater isolation than that which is felt in some of the valleys o f the Dolomites which lie o ff the beaten track of the average tourist . Y ou may walk for miles without meeting a fellow- traveller ; when you do occasionally c o f ome across a group haymakers , they look upon you with grave suspicion and , knowing

o f se t nothing their language , you are unable to their minds at rest and assure them o f your amicable intentions ; you can only go on your way feeling your loneliness more than ever . The Auronzo valley is but little visited at

c o n present by the ordinary tourist , and is

sequently quite unspoiled ; to such an extent , i ndeed , is it undesecrated that the pedestrian 3 ! THE D OLOMITES who purposes to explore its beauties would do well to provide himself with food for his

for j ourney , the inns are few and far between . From the Misurina Lake a good road runs down into the Val Buona , from which point the Val Auronzo runs due south . We reached ’ r the lake about nine o clock in the mo ning , having walked down from Tre Croci ; to our dismay we found that the diligence did n o t start until ﬁve in the afternoon , and as the price for a carriage seemed to us exorbitant we made up our minds to walk . A lengthy, and at times heated , discussion took place as to Whether we should take ou r r iicksacks with us o r on leave them to be brought by post . Age and exper ience was in favour o f the former course , while youth and inexperience strongly urged ru nning the risk and n o t encumbering ourselves with baggage . Age carried the day , though it may here be freely admitted that youth submitted with the utmost grace . AS soon as we had crossed the frontier into Italy the character o f the country seem ed ito

- change . Out of the comparatively barren 32 A F LOR A L PARA D I SE

su d land , sparsely dotted with pine trees , we d enl o f y entered a region richest vegetation , teeming with insect life . Close to the roadside the ﬁelds were full of wild ﬂowers growing in lavish profusion ; large

orange lilies , pale yellow thistles , orchis , smaller lilies , gentian , and hosts of other varieties , went to make up a picture o f luxuriance that was most striking ; with the enthusiasm o f ama teu r s we beganto gather specimens but speedily found that they suffered the fate of specimens similarly collected , and withered away . On every ﬂower- head we saw clusters o f butter

o f all ﬂies and beetles , sizes and colours ; we did , indeed , succeed in capturing two very ﬁne

- beetles , and imprisoned them in a match box . On the way down from the Misurina Lake the whole mass o f S or apiss lay stretched

u s Antelao before , with in the distance to the left , but in the Auronzo valley itself it was

Monte Mar m ar ole that dominated the scene . It was a cur ious experience to walk down

u - this beautif l valley in mid summer , at the ” height of the season , and never to meet a 3 33 TH E D OLOMITES single traveller ; the weather was brilliantly

o f n ai ﬁne , the views the mou t ns were wonder — ful th e contrast between the abundant vegetation below and the bare rocks above

ne being very impressive . At o point the

m a b author, lost in ad iration at the r re eauty o f the scene before him, turned to call the

’ s artist s attention to the colour , and found him — contemplating with awe a row o i French beans !

’ We had started on o u r day s tr ainp u npr o vid ed o f with food any kind , and , in the pride o f o ur s o ne o r r t hearts , had pas ed by two a her

- n r istor a nti ho in ‘for uninviting looki g , p g better

c As w o n r lu k later . the day ore , howeve , the claims o f the inner m an began to assert

h m r was n ow o f t e selves , but the e no Sign an

- inn anywhere . About half pas t two we came

c o m a a r ss some hay kers , and endeavoured to ﬁnd o u t what were th e Ch ances o f Obtaining

a our s t food ; we le rned , to di may, hat we had

’ ’ r zstor am e hi an d left the last an hour be nd , should not meet with another until Auronzo it — self was reached about two hour s further o n ! 34 L I N G U A L D IFFI C ULTIES

We endeavoured to sta ve o ff the pangs o f

e hunger with wild strawberries , but , exc llent and tas ty as those well- meaning little berries

as to are a ﬁnish a meal , they were hardly an efﬁcient substitute for the solid mid- day feas t to which we had become accustomed . Once o r twice o u r hopes revived when we came across an isolated cottage ; here we made

ta futile efforts to ob in nourishment . The

as o f author, the linguist the party , would

l o u t timid y approach a peasant , holding in his

o f hand coin the realm , and murmuring softly the only Italian words he knew . This proving

ineffective , the artist would then step forward

m c o ntem tu boldly , waving the ti id author p l ? ? o u s y aside . Ristorante No he would

sa his . y , in most commanding tones But the obtuse peasants shook their heads , the artist

o n o u r retired hurt , and we had to go way unsatisﬁed .

o u r - According to trusted guide book , an inn was to be found at Miniera Argentiera—where also there were said to be lead and zinc works , and with hopes rekindled we crossed the river 3S THE D OLOMITES

to make inquiries . But a brief inspection showed u s that the place was absolutely de ser ted ; all the signs of habitation and industry —it were there , but everything was still might l have been a vil age of the dead , or cast under a spell ; o ne almost expected to come across

as o f recumbent ﬁgures , in the tale the Sleeping

Beauty , but even that satisfaction was denied u s had set ou t , and we to again hungry and empty . For a time we tried to cheat ourselves by composing imaginary m enu s o f the feasts that we would command if it were possible , by

to some means or other, obtain those con venient magic tables of which we had read in our y outh . And it was interesting to note what an InspIr Ing effect the pinch of hunger had upon the imagination ; but we came to the conclusion that the Barmecide feast is an

- o f r over rated form entertainment , infe ior At even to the wild strawberry . last , how A ever, uronzo appeared in sight, and about we were able to secure a good meal and excellent accommodation . 36

THE D OLOMITES

n o ne tai s has ever seen or heard of before , and t t oo it is only ﬁtting tha the villages , ,

“ ul sho d be quite contrary to all conventions . We spent the rest of the day in wandering

i about the village , enj oy ng the quaint sights that met us at every corner ; groups o f soldiers playing a t bowls and dancing with each other to the strains o f a b urdy- gurdy played by a blind musician ; girls coming to the well with queer yoked pails on their shoulders ; wagoners struggling with brakes on their carts o f the most elementary kind ; r e and then , the st e t was suddenly ablaze with

nt r i u l electric lamps . The co rast was too dic

o u s . t o f , and we retired to rest Inves igation o u r match - box showed that the very ﬁne beetles had managed to escape ; it was with a somewhat uneasy feeling that we scrutinised ou r - e garments , but the two brilliantly colour d creatures were never seen again . The next morning we witnessed a funeral t procession going hrough the street , and were

' a ain t o M carried back g the iddle Ages . First came the priests , with the cross , candles and 38

THE POST - W A G ON banners ; then a pathetic ﬁgure bearing the cradle o f the child to be buried ; then all the

men of the village apparently , followed by the women . After this we were favoured with a short visit from a troop o f mountain soldiers who halted for a rest j ust opposite ou r inn ; there were here no annoying restrictions as to

s o photographing , the author sallied forth with

- o f his camera to take a snap shot the party ,

Far from resenting this , the soldiers seemed

to think it a great honour, and elbowed each other ou t o f the way in order to get into a — front place quite oblivious o f the fact that there was no human probability o f their ever

seeing the result . However, as they were

pleased, and the photographer was also pleased ,

r ever ything was satisfacto y . We went on by d iligence from Auronzo to

Pieve di Cadore . It would be impossible to imagine anything more leisurely than the Italian post- wagon ; ever ything is carried

- NO on in the most easy going way . o ne thinks

o r o u t of hurrying putting himself , or expects 39 TH E D OLOMITE S

inc onceiv anyone else to hurry . It would be able that any traveller , however dilatory , could ever manage to miss an Italian post .

o ne The road , which is an excellent , leads past the hamlets of Lozzo and Domegge , and

ﬁnally reaches Pieve di Cadore . This village is celebrated as the birthplace o f Titian . The house in which he was born

o f stands in a corner the piazza , and a bronze statue of the painter was erected in the market

in 188 place 0 . Apart from the fact of its being

o f the birthplace the g reat artist , it may be doubted whether Pieve di Cadore would ever attract much notice . The village itself is not nearly s o attractive o r picturesque as Auronzo ; the houses are , for the most part , white

washed and ugly ; the church is , indeed , unusual ; it looks more like a collection o f the blocks used in teaching solid geometry than

to anything else , but it cannot be said be beau l tiful . The school contains a smal museum of coins , antiquities and natural history

obj ects , and there is also to be seen here

’ o f Titian s patent nobility . 40 P IE VE D I CA D ORE

The situation of the village is very ﬁne , and o ne can quite imagine that it may have in spired some o f the landscapes which the painter in after life utilised in his pictures . It stands high on a spur Of a mountain above

u w the Piave , and commands a beautif l vie o f the surrounding district . From Pieve di Cadore a high road runs south to Belluno and

r o f thence to Feltre , the southe nmost point the Dolomite region ; but the pedestrian can do

to m uch better than keep along the high roads , and by a judicious u se o f the numerous passes can obtain ﬁner and more characteristic views o f the country . An early start from Pieve di Cadore was in tended , but once more it was demonstrated to us that the Italian is quite independent o f time ; with a great effort we reached the market place by shortly before the time at which the diligence was advertised to start , but we might just as well have stayed

- another half hour in bed , for we had to wait patiently for fully that length o f time before there were any signs o f o u r conveyance . 4 1 THE D OLOMITES

When at last we did get off it proved to be one of the very slowest methods o f travelling that we had ever met with ; at ﬁrst we were touched by the consideration which the driver — Showed for his horses he was able to detect a slight rise in the road long before we could , and would slacken pace accordingly . We felt that here , at any rate , there was no need for any vigilant Society for the Prevention of

Cruelty to Animals . We had ample time , too , to admire the ever- changing beauties o f t he scenery as we very gradually made our way

o the l al ng va ley and round the hills . After a while , however, we felt that the consideration shown to the beasts was perhaps a little over done , and that some might be extended to the passengers , but we knew that nothing we could sa l f — y or do wou d have the least e fect threats ,

r —so entreaties , p ayers would all be useless we steeled ourselves to endure a ﬁve hours”

su n j ourney in the hot , by means of which we at length accomplished a distance of some

18 3 miles . As we entered the Ampezzo valley (which 42

CHAPTER IV

CORTINA AND THE AMPEZZO VALLEY

ERHAPS it would be as well to admit at once that we did not climb the Cinque

Torri ; did not even go up to Belvedere or

Ghedina . visit the Lakes We may even add , at the risk of alienating the sympathies o f

o f we ' wer e e some our readers , that glad to leav

Cortina behind us . We had understood that Cortina was ad ” m ir ab l for y adapted a prolonged stay , and we had accordingly arranged to devote some time to a place o f such magnitude and im portance We found , however, that it was very crowded , hot , and none too comfortable (it may be that we were unfortunate in our choice of quarters) ; a large notice advertising English afternoon tea greeted us as we entered the village ; a band played in the square in the evening ; and altogether we felt that we might almost be in Lucerne in the month of August . 44 C ORTI NA

The situation o f Cortina is undoubtedly very beautiful ; the town (for it is really more o f a town than a village nowadays) is the chief o ne o f A of the commune mpezzo , and is the

Fo r seat o f the district authorities . a good many years past Cortina has been well known

- as a pleasure resort , particularly among li Eng sh and American tourists , and the consequence is that there are numerous

’ large hotels where o ne may indulge to one s

’ heart s content the passion fo r evening clothes and afternoon tea .

and The valley runs north south , and the road from Toblach enters it at the nor them most point ; another good road to the east

Falz ar e o leads to Tre Croci , while the g Pass to the west runs to ' the Por d oij och and the

Karer Pass and Botzen . On the afternoon o f o u r arrival we ascended the church tower (nearly 2 50 feet above the street) and had a ﬁne view o f the surrounding c ountry ; on the north - east is the Pom agognon and the group o f Monte Cristallo ; directly east lies Tre Croci ; to the south - east are the 4s T HE D OLOMITES

u o f P nta Nera , and the magniﬁcent masses S or apiss and Antelao Monte Pelm o lies to di the south , with the Rocchetta and Becco Mezzodi in the middle distance ; the serrated ridge o f Croda da Lago rises to - the southwest ;

Zu o hi Nu volau then come the Crepa di g , the and the Cinque Torri ; to the west one sees

La azu oi Tofana and the g , while northwards the

is Co l Lavinor es view completed by the Rosa , ,

’ e l Se ko fe and Croda dell Ancona . In the evening we were fortunate enough — to see a truly magniﬁcent s ight Monte th Antelao bathed in e sunset glow . We were then able to realise the peculiar glory o f the h i . S A t e Dolomite d strict In the wiss lps ,

Al en - lizhen - s p g , where the snow peaks a sume a rosy hue , is usually conﬁned to a compara tively small portion o f each mountain ; the

o f summits catch the light the setting sun , t glow wi h soft radiance , which then fades away ; but here at least two - thirds of the huge mass o f Antelao stood out against the — A sky one brilliant pink mountain . lthough it was some eight or ten miles away every 46 I N CRE D IBLE EFFECTS

point and crag seemed to be sharply deﬁned ,

f o f and the e fect the enormous , brilliant mass d was almost incre ible .

We realised , however, that the scene was quite characteristic o f the Dolomites nowhere l else , surely , are such incredib e effects to be

one met with . At ﬁrst feels a sense of affront ;

di o f you know that , accor ng to all the rules l the game , these weird colours are not al owed ; they belong so obviously to the decorative

as school , they must not be regarded realistic ,

0 one for they are qu ite unbelievable . N ever s aw a mountain of that colour ; it may be

dl r (and undoubte y is) ve y beautiful , but it is clearly untrue to Nature .

We have to reconcile ourselves , however, to the fact that Nature has apparently set herself, in the Dolomite region , to upset all our preconceived ideas respecting mountain scenery . In shape , in colour and in arrange ment of these peaks she deliberately achieves the impossible . It was something o f a shock to turn from this gorgeous spectacle to see the town band 47 THE D OLOMITES

assembling in the square , and presently to — listen to the strains o f the Merry Widow Waltz ! The climate of Cortina is said to be temper ate throughout the year . There are those who allege that it is cooler in summer than

o r Primiero , Agordo Caprile , because it is less enclosed by the surrounding mountains ; we

e were , perhaps , unlucky in our experi nce of

was so it , for we found that it not agreeable in any respect as any of those places . The soil o f the d istrict is poor and the chief in d u str ies of the valley (apart from inn-keeping)

- are wood cutting and pasturage . We had a good opportunity of see ing the peasants in their distinctive costumes on the to S following day , for it happened be a unday, and they came trooping to church in large

rs . numbe , all dressed in their best The pre

’ vailing colour o f the women s dresses was black , and the little round hats, with long ribbons streaming behind, were quaint but by no means beautiful . There was little v ariety in the costumes , except in the matter of 48 T HE TOW N B A N D

’ quality ; the men s dress exhibited no special features of interest . Cortina seems to be almost given over to the English and Americans—they are catered i for at every turn . We v sited some afternoon tea rooms (where we obtained excellent re l freshment) , with the latest Eng ish news papers and notices of a lawn - tennis tourna ment that was to take place ; English Church services are held ; photographic plates and

ﬁlms m av be developed ; picture - postcards innumerable may be obtained . In the afternoon we made a short excur sion up the Tre Croci road , whence one may

o f get a good view the valley , with Tofana ,

Nu volau and the Croda da Lago opposite .

i o u r We dec ded , however, not to prolong

stay , and determined upon an early start , after despatching ou r luggage by post in advance . The town band once more obliged— this time with a pot - pourr i from Tann ha u ser

Imagine a pot- pourri in the Dolomites ! But it seemed to be suited to Cortina . 4 49 CHAPTER V

CORTINA TO COLLE D I SANTA LUCIA—THE NU VOLA U AND THE SACHS ENDANK HUT MONTE PELMO AND MONTE C IVETTA

VERYONE knows the Cinque Torri by

sight . They are , perhaps , the most photographed group o f rocks in the Dolomite region . Wherever we go we are confronted by a picture of the Cinque Torri the Cinque

Torri from the north , the Cinque Torri from

- - the south south west , the Cinque Torri from

- the east , the Cinque Torri from the west north

west , the Cinque Torri at sunrise , moonrise o n fﬁ the Cinque Torri , a di cult position on the — Cinque Torri until we get to be (quite u n reasonably) annoyed with the Cinque Torri .

one The inevitable result is , that when is face to face with these victims o f the camera

o f a sense disappointment is experienced .

o f Imposing , course , they are , from certain 50

THE C I NQ UE TORRI aspects—it would be difﬁcult to ﬁnd any group of Dolomite rocks that were not im — pressive from some point o f view but when one o r gets above them , sees them in relation

r to their g eater neighbours , they appear piti ably insigniﬁcant . But the Cinque Torri are the goal o f the ordinary tourist who stays at Cortina . It is

u - a respectable walk p hill to reach them , and once there an imposing photograph may be

o f taken . We heard an amusing account how an American lady had climbed the Cinque

Torri . She hired a guide , assumed the proper climbing costume , was properly roped at the foot o f the rocks and started up with a light heart . Presently the guide disappeared round a corner and called to her to Come o n ! To her it did not appear as if there were any

o n to where to come , but , having heard that it was a good plan always to put one ’ s foot

where the guide had put his , she took her

courage in both hands and let herself go . By

or she some means other was hauled , dragged o r pushed up , arriving at the summit in a state 51 THE D OLOMITE S o f havrn of breathless exhaustion , g left most

o her attire dispersed about the rocks . H w ! ever, she had done the Cinque Torri

We left Cortina early , as arranged , and made ou r - way up the hill side towards Belvedere ,

a on our leaving th t spot , however, left . For some distance we kept to the road of the

Falz ar e o g Pass , but after a time diverged to

the left and visited the famous Cinque Torri . We were much more impressed on the way up by the views which were obtained o f

o f Tofana . Tofana , which consists really three peaks feet , feet and feet respectively —certainly brings itself

’ before one s notice in a remarkable way ; n ow o n e peak and n ow another shows above a

o f i foreground pines , the summit l ghtly

Off sprinkled with snow, the rock itself cut from all vegetation by a sharp line o f de

ar c ation r m , and rising bare and g ey into the brilliant blue . From the Cinque Torri we ascended to the

achsend ank o n S Hut , which is situated the

o f Nu volau summit the , and commands a 52 THE S A C H SE ND A NK HU T

ul o f wonderf panorama the Dolomites , ex

Oetz thal S tending to the and tubai glaciers ,

Koni s itze G the g p and the rossglockner ,

Sor a iss An telao Mar m olata P elm o p , , , Civetta , di and Tofana . All the giants of the strict are

’ ranged round this favoured spot , and at one s feet lie the inconspicuous Cinque Torri , now seen in their proper relationship to their more

o f exalted neighbours . The huts the

G l o f (the erman and Austrian A pine Club) , which there are many in the Dolomite district , are of course erected mainly for the beneﬁt of

- climbers , who use them as starting points from which they make their ascents , but in summer they are also frequented by the less ff ambitious mountaineers , and a ord welcome and excellent refreshment to those who are content with the humbler passes . We availed ourselves o f the entertainment offered and made an excellent meal . We were su rprised to ﬁnd here actually an English man ! The artist was much attracted by his appearance , and declared that he was a person o f cu lture and reﬁnement ; he insisted 53 THE D OLOMI TES that he looked to be an adm irable example o f ‘

. on the intellectual Englishman The author,

was the other hand , drawn to a thin , ascetic

sat looking individual , who alone in a corner ;

was it much more likely , he maintained , that

o f this man was the man letters . A reference

’ to the visitors book later o n revealed the fact

’ intellecla el was that the artist s a bank clerk ,

’ and the author s man o f letters a guide ! We descended from the hut over pleasant green pastures into a delightful path which skirted the mountain side—winding in and ou t , high up above the valley , with views here and there through the pines towards the peaks in the distance . We thus ﬁnally reached

Colle di Santa Lucia , a small village beautifully

on situated a mountain terrace , with extensive

o f views the Val Florentina, and the ﬁnest view l o f Monte Pe m o . We made our way up to the little churchyard and sat there for a long time watching the sunset .

It has already been remarked that , in the

one o f Dolomites , meets with a succession surprises ; the extraordinary shapes o f the 3 4 MON TE P E LMO

peaks , the weird coloration of the rocks , com

’ pletely upset one s preconceived ideas o f what — mountains look like for here o ne is confronted by quite unusual mountains .

M P elm o With onte , however, it is different ; it is with almost a sense o f relief that you meet with a mountain which may be called c onven

’ l o f tional . Monte P e m o fulﬁls one s ideas what — a mountain should b e there is no marked

o f eccentricity shape , no fantastic grouping o f d rock masses , no extraor inary colouring but the sense o f maj esty and grandeur which it conveys , serenely towering above the fertile — valley fa cile pr in ceps among all its neighbours — make it one of the most satisfactory peaks ll in a the district .

or al Why are mountains always , almost ways , made of the masculine gender by the poets and writers o f descriptive prose ? Per haps it is because they so often suggest massive grandeur and strength ; but this applies to what we have termed the conventional mountain . After seeing some of the Dolomite peaks the idea irresistibly occurs to o ne that 55 THE D OLOMITE S we may meet with the counterpart o f the

' queenly as well as the kingly among mountains . Nowhere was this more forcibly suggested than in the successive views o f Monte P elm o and

Monte Civetta . Monte P elm o is a king among mountains ; everything about him is on the grand scale .

The eye is carried gradually up fr Om . point to point , until it reaches the culminating peak ; we feel that we are in the presence o f a — mighty monarch o n a mighty throne he towers above all the surr ounding heights and will evidently brook no rival . At the same time he conforms to the general idea o f what a mountain should be Though o f Dolomite

ecc en formation , he seems to scorn the wild tr icities of some o f his neighbours ; he seems to be an example o f what may be done with

al this p articular material , working ong con venti n l o a lines .

P elm o M But if is a king , onte Civetta is undoubtedly a queen . The actual termination

In of the word would seem to suggest that , naming the mountain , it was felt that a mas 56

THE DOLOMITES

the mountain above was moving . He ran from ll il vi age to v lage , crying his terrible news as he

o f went , but met with the fortune a Cassandra , for none believed him ; the people of the four l vil ages went to bed as usual that evening , heedless o f any danger .

o f In the dead night , however, the whole side o f the mountain came down with a mighty rush and overwhelmed the sleeping hamlets ; two of them were buried and two

o f were drowned, for the waters the Corde ‘ su d d enlv vole , driven back , spread out and formed the lake as it now exists .

This happened in January , and in the follow ing May another downfall occurred ; the waters o f the lake were driven up the valley and caused even more destruction than before .

There used to be a tradition that in winter , when the lake was froze n and the ice no t too

on thick , and even in summer very calm days , the walls and roofs o f one of the drowned villages might still be seen , and that at mid night the bells o f the church could be heard tolling under the water for the u nburied dead . 58 A D IS A STE R

o f The tale the sudden , swift and over whelming disaster meted o u t to the u n for tu n

’ ate villages seems to accord with one s idea o f an offended queen visiting an awful punishment o n the heads o f those who had dared to cross her sovereign will . One cannot help fancying ,

- too , that the charcoal burner must have played some not inconsiderable part in the drama which su r ely b eg an b efo r e the disaster occurred . Perhaps he was favoured above his fellow

o f men by the spirit the mountain , and was

o f warned the approaching doom , and then sought to communicate the awful knowledge

? was no t to his friends Note , too , that it Civetta herself who carried o u t the sentence ; she delegated the dreadful task to a smaller

M . mountain , onte Forca There seems to be ample material for a very stirring legend on the

. M subject onte Civetta remains , however , silent and impassive .

M Untr odden P eaks and iss Edwards , in her

Un r e u ented Valle s o f is f q y , says it , It seamed from crown to foot with thousands of vertical

ﬁssures , and , rising in a mighty arch towards 59 THE D OLOMITES

t e - the cen r , faces to the north west , looking

Cor d evole directly up the towards Caprile , and ﬁlling in the end of the valley as a gr eat

- o f organ front ﬁlls in the end a cathedral aisle . Towards evening it takes all the glow o f the

. su n sunset In the morning , while the is yet

‘ low i in the east , it shows through a ve l of soft ”

u . blue shade , vague and nreal as a dream ” Mr G All ruddy in the sunset , says ilbert

o in his book n the Dolomites , its pinnacled facade rose like some stupendous cathedral in l the vista of the va ley , and Caprile nestled at its o : l f ot That view, favoured certain y at

the the moment by its suddenness , and by

f u n striking e fect of light , remains almost rivalled in ou r Alpine experience . The moun tain is Monte Civita . We have since explored

on f it all sides , and for scenic e fect it still holds i ” the ﬁrst place among ts Dolomite brethren .

O t was ur host at Colle di San a Lucia , it

so appeared, the guide whom the author had

S achsend ank much admired in the Hut , and he asked if he might accompany us o n our way

. o f to Caprile We assented . course (though 60

TH IEVES there did not appear to be any need of a gu ide

i on on the short walk) , and he enterta ned us the way by accounts o f his various ascents o f the mountains ; it is to be feared that he was no t altogether above the suspicion o f being a

ﬂatter er , for he assured as that he had made the only two ascents o f Monte Civetta that had been accomplished from one side , and that on both occasions he had been gu iding Englishmen !

to o We learned , with some surprise , that the neighbourhood had recently been disturbed by

o f thieves ; it was a disquieting thought , that — burglars in the Dolomites one somehow is i loth to associate the lesser human fa lings , at any rate , with this maj estic scenery ; we should prefer to think that no unworthy deeds were ever committed among t hese beautiful su r

di o f roun ngs , and the notion anyone stealing spoons beneath the shadow o f Monte Pelm o M ! and onte Civetta is outrageous At least , one expects crime o n a grand scale if we are to have it at all . We took a boat along the lake to the further 6 1 T HE D OLOMIT ES end and much enj oyed the change as well as the wonderful view o f the mountain . The road to Agordo down the Val di Corde

s vole was hot and dusty , but the tream running by the side offered tempting refreshment to perspiring pedestrians . We resisted for a long f time, but at length , as the tra ﬁc along the road — did not seem to be excessive we walked fo r — miles without meeting a soul we selected a comparatively retired spot and indulged in the

- o f luxury of an open air bath . It is evidence the fact that the Dolomite region is not yet overrun by tourists that we were able to enjoy

‘ a bathe in a river close to a high - road u n

- b observed by any passer y . w Cencenighe , a small village bet een the Val

Cor d evole di and the Val di Canale , was reached about mid- day and afforded more material refreshment . From there to Agordo the — j ourney presented no special features exc ept that another invigorating bath was indulged in with impunity .

Agordo is a quaint , straggling village with the houses and inns clustered round a large , 6 2

THE D OLOMITES

The View looking bac k towards Agordo in the morning light was one of exquisite charm ; the lower parts o f the mountains (the Pale di San Lucano) were shrouded in a delicate blue ll mist , the tops were brilliantly i uminated , while with the village in the foreground we had an impressionist sketch o f Dolomite scenery spread out before us . The road led up through woods and fertile M pastures , with ﬁne views of onte Agner , past

to G ou r Frassene osaldo , where we parted with — porter . Here we had a frugal meal thinking that we were most fortunate to be able to order a chicken , until it appeared with its head still on its shoulders- and then we pursued

o f Mis our way through the village , across

Cer ed a into Austria again , and up the

Pass . The clouds had been gathering round the tops of the peaks all the morning , and as we

o f reached the head the pass it began to rain . We managed to gain the shelter of the small s inn just in time , for a few minute after we had got in the storm broke and the rain came down 64 C A S TEL L A P IETRA

heavily for about an hour and a half . As soon as it was over we set off for Primiero

o t w once more and g do n quite comfortably , though it is certainly no exaggeration on the part of the guide- book to describe the path as stony ; the woods were steaming after the heavy rain and the road resembled a small watercourse . Suddenly we came across an open space and saw Castel la Pietra perched on its in

o f accessible rock , straight in front us . It was

Wels er the property of the p g family , by whose ancestors it was built in feudal times . ” l I cannot imagine , says Les ie Stephen , a more enviable dwelling- place for a baron o f a few centuries back . From his rocky for tress he looked down upon the little village

o f lying at his feet , and , having the power life and death over its inhabitants , was doubtless regarded with universal respect . The most practicable road into this secluded countr y lay immediately beneath its walls , and must have enabled him conveniently to raise such duties as were compatible with the commercial 5 6 5 THE D OLOMITES

e o f theori s the epoch that is , he could take ” whatever he liked . The single precipitous rock o n which the castle stands has split from top to bottom , and this has render ed it literally inaccessible without the assistance o f guide and ladders .

Once in the last century the owner did succeed , with ropes and ladders and workmen from

Primiero , in climbing up to the deserted castle ,

now but it is but rarely disturbed and stands ,

o f a lonely sentinel , at the head the Val di

Canali .

It is a quaint sight nowadays , but the trees which have climbed up all ro und r ob it to some extent o f its awesome and commanding prerogatives . CHAPTER Vl

PRIMIE RO AND THE PALA G RO UP— THE VAL DI CANALI

OULD the Her r en like to see the pro spect from my garden ? ” The

Hef r en would . Our courteous and obliging host thereupon led us to a spot some distance from

o f the inn , to a queer sort enclosure ﬁlled with

ﬂowers and vegetables , in the midst of which

was a little arbour covered with creepers .

This was evidently the glory of the place , and

o f the proprietor was immensely proud it .

Having duly admired his ﬂowers , vegetables an d arbour we were allowed to admire the view . The mountains around Primiero would per haps best fulﬁl the expectations o f those who

o f , u , have read b t never seen “the Dolomites ; they have been described as the fairyland of the Alps possibly the view o f the Rosengarten from Botzen is the most char 6 7 THE D OLOMITES

stic ac ter i of the Dolomite scenery , with the

a strange , rocky walls , spl shed with vivid

colour, and the pinnacles and towers twisted into fantastic shapes , guarding the magic garden of the goblin King Laurin . But the peaks o f Primiero have an equal fascination . The district is one of particular

o f interest , both from the nature its scenery and from the curious history of the town itself

Fiera di Primiero . This latter point will be touc hed upon later .

too o f S It recalls memories , , Leslie tephen , who was the ﬁrst to draw attention to the

o f hitherto unexplored beauties the Dolomites ,

186 o f and who made the ﬁrst ascent , in 9 , the

Fr a Cima di Ball and the Cima di d u sta . One o f the most charming o f the papers in his

The P la r ou nd o Eu r o e delightful book , yg f p , is

o f devoted to the Peaks Primiero , and the ﬁrst o f these mountains reminds us of the famous

J ohn Ball , whose name is a household word among climbers .

’ The prospect from o u r host s garden was f su ﬁciently ﬁne to please the most exacting . 68 PR IMIERO

A cloudless Italian sky (though Primiero is actually in Austria it is impossible to think of it as anything else than Italian) , with all the surrounding peaks sharply outlined in the

- morning light . To the south east lies the

o f M chain the Vette di Feltre , with onte

P avione , like a huge pyramid , the highest point o f the range ; to the north lie the Sass M aor, the Rosetta , the Cimon della Pala , and the rest o f those strange peaks which look

o n down the Val di Canali .

o f Above the meadows the Primierovalley , says Leslie Stephen in the paper already re

o f ferred to , there rises a long slope , ﬁrst

o f o f forest and then alp , to the foot the mighty

o f peaks , which spring at a bound to a height some ten thousand feet . The two conspicuous M summits in front are called the Sass aor , and

s o resemble , if I may be pardoned vulgar a

o f comparison , the raised ﬁnger and thumb a more than gigantic hand . Behind them , I

o f - knew , lay a wilderness partially explored w summits , ith sides as steep as those of a

su r r o u d ed cathedral , and by daring spires 6q T HE D OLOMITES

c o nc eiv and pinnacles , writhing into every

o able shape , and alm st too fantastical to be ” beautifu l . In the middle distance could be seen Castel

insi niﬁ la Pietra , now dwarfed almost into g

one was cance , and once more impressed (more par ticularly by the bitter complaints of the artist) with the rapidity with which the light

" here changed the colour, and , apparently , the form also , of the mountains . What seemed at o ne moment to be a deep cleft in the rock changed the next minute to a sharp pinnacle .

so We were also struck by the fact that , far, the colours of the rocks had not seemed nearly so crude as we had been led to expect . f The Dolomites , indeed, appeared to a fect the newest art shades in their colouring , and to eschew violent contrasts— except when the su n o f , that most daring impressionists , forced them to adopt his most ﬂamboyant reds and pinks .

We are reminded , in watching the rapid

o f on play light and shade these mountains , o f what an incomparable show - woman Nature 70

T HE D OLOMITES

n r - s r m e s s e o th ea twa d from Pri i ro , pa t Ca t l

— - la e r a . It is es n b the b e Pi t ( inter ti g , y y , to — note the u se o f this wor d Canali applied to str eam s ﬂowing in their natural beds ; it is an instanc e o f the survival o f Venetian h ideas in Tyr ol . To t e Venetian every river or s m was a and s s was trea canal , thi di trict for a long time adm inistered by the great Republic which left her impress on the phraseology o f som e o f the nam es . ) The ro ad to the Val di Canali leads through the little village of Tonidic o up to Castel 1a

e r and the Cer ed a ss o n Pi t a , then , leaving Pa the r a s e u a ight , long a mo t d lightf l p th , through woods by a noisy stream . It was in the afternoon that the wr iter set o u t a e s e a for the lon to visit thi r nowned v lley , ar s r e the es r e to ti t , ﬁ d with d i try a new

m e h e s b e r e his t od , r fu ed to lu d from canvas . There was nobodyto b e seen after the village s

er e e e n d and as one ot u w l ft b hi , g f rther up into the valley the sense of isolation increased . The sc enery was wild and gr and when one 7 2 T HE V A L D I C ANAL I T HE D OLOMITES

- north eastward from Primiero , past Castel

- - . b the la Pietra (It is interesting , y bye , to — note the u se o f this word Canali applied to streams ﬂowing in their natural beds ; it is an instance o f the survival o f Venetian ideas in Tyrol . To the Venetian every river di or stream was a canal , and this strict was for a long time administered by the great Republic which left her impress on the

o f o f phraseology some the names . ) The road to the Val di Canali leads through the little village of Tonidic o up to Castel la

Cer ed a o n Pietra , and then , leaving the Pass a the right , along a most delightful p th , through woods by a noisy stream . It was in the afternoon that the writer set ou t l alone to visit this renowned va ley , for the artist , ﬁred with the desire to try a new ” method , refused to be lured from his canvas . There was nobodyto be seen after the villages were left behind , and as one got further up into the valley the sense of isolation increased . The scenery was wild and grand when one 7 2

THE D OLOMITES o n e of th e most extraordinary o f mountain valleys . Whatever fantastic forms that rock e may assume lsewhere , they are here surpassed in boldness and strangeness . Of the ﬁve or six highest , all much exceeding feet in

o ne . height , there is but that seems accessible

o f The others are mere towers or obelisks rock ,

or with sheer vertical faces , else , as the highest peak , fashioned like a ruinous wall , abruptly

one broken away at end , and cleft at frequent intervals along the ridge by chasms that appear ” perfectly impassable . This same valley impressed Leslie Stephen

o f too , and moved him to one his quaintest similes . The huge barrier before me , he says , speaking of this amphitheatre of peaks surrounding the Val di Canali , was the de fence o f that fairyland into which I was seeking f entrance . The cli fs rose abruptly and with

u tremendous steepness , tho gh their bases were j oined to the valley by long slopes o f d ebr is that had accumulated in countless ages .

is n It impossible to paint such scenery i words , or to give any notion o f the force with which 74 A Q U A I NT S IMI LE

the bare rocks, a deadly grey in some places , and tinged in others with the ruddy hue w common in the Dolomites , contrasted ith the rich Italian vegetation at their feet . I can never look at crevasses o f a certain char , acter without being reminded o f the meal

’ called ﬁve - o clock tea ; and it was certainly a closer analogy which o n this occasion su g gested to me the picture of a gigantic raised

as o f pie , such sometimes makes the circuit a table before any audacious guest makes an inroad into its contents . At last appetite gets the better o f modesty : a sacrilegious hand is raised, and a few bold gashes with the knife make terrible rents into its solid sides , and heap piles o f ruined paste in the dish

o below . Even s had some mysterious agent l sliced and hacked the great Dolomite wa l , and though the barrier still rose as proudly as ever

o f along a great part the line , there were deep trenches and gullies hewn through it at various places ; masses had evidently given way at some distant period , and others were appar ” ently threatening to follow them . 7 5 THE D OLOMITES

Nature seemed to have run riot here in the way of devising weird forms . If, indeed, these rocks are really the work o f the coral insect (as some authorities believe) then the particular school which devoted themselves to the Val di Canali evidently determined to excel their brother artists in the matter o f producing — something ou t o f the ordinary and suc c eed ed !

one One cannot help feeling some doubt , as looks at the extraordinary chain o f peaks

as round this valley , to this theory respecting — their geological formation the theory that they were built up in past ages by coral insects ; doubtless the s cren tists have excellent reasons for their belief, but to the lay mind the notion seems , at the ﬁrst blush , absurd .

The coral insect , like the ant , has always been held up as an example of what may be accomplished by persevering industry , and , as such , has seemed to be quite unnecessarily virtuous ; but to suppose that any of these creatures deliberately set themselves to c on struct the Dolomites would assuredly be to 76

T HE D OLOMITES typical Dolomite peaks rose sheer and ab m pt

o f without a vestige growth upon them , but supplying the necessary colours in the wonder

on ful yellow and fawn splashes their sides . For a long while the writer sat alone in this

e off no t des rted valley , seemingly cut , only i from c vilization but even from all humanity , and it was with a sense o f relief that he heard

o f c ow- i at last the sound bells in the d stance ,

r and, thus reassu ed , made his way back to the haunts of men . Perhaps o ne o f the most extraordinary things abo ut this extraordinary valley is the

H is so fact that little visited ; indeed , com par atively few tourists seem to penetrate as i far as Pr miero itself , which still retains much o f — f , its primitive charm even i “it isno longer as S e dis Leslie t phen described it , lying at a

o f o r tance some thousand miles , more less , and two o r three centuries from railways and ” civilization . It is true that electric lamps light the streets at night and that a post arrives with reasonable

no t regularity , but reform has yet progressed 7 8 I NNKEE PERS so far as to prevent the landlady from waiting personally at table and displaying a kindly

’ interest in her guests welfare . Our hostess at

Primiero , a most charming Italian signora , with no knowledge o f English and a very h G limited acquaintance wit erman , delighted us by interpreting on e item in the bill o f fare ” as ! to Quack , quack Needless say we felt bound to order this dish , and very excellent it proved .

o f It is still true Primiero , at least , that the innkeepers are people o f ancient family who have owned lands and held responsible

on e ofﬁces in days gone by . And should bear in mind the remarks of Miss Edwards on this

point , remarks which , though made thirty o r forty years ago , hold good with regard to

o f some the Tyrolean villages , at any rate , ” “ - to day . It would be well , she says , if persons travelling in these valleys remembered that they are n ot dealing here with innkeepers o f the ordinary continental stamp , but with

in persons who are , for the most part , quite d o f o f ependent the albergo as a source proﬁt , 79 typical D0 1 without a supplying t wond er

ll si ful ye ow des . Fo r a lo in this

ed seem in l c u t off no t l d ese rt g y , on y

ci i b u t e en r om all h m anit from v v f u y , and it was xﬂ r a sens e of relie f that he heard

s s nd o f c ow-b e lls in the dis anc at la t the a t e ,

s r e u r ed m ad e his wa b ack and , thu g , y to the haunts o f 1110. Perhaps ac o f the m os t extraor dinary things ab o u tt his extrao r dina ry valley is the

3 so little vis i ed ind eed com fact that it t ; , para tively a? tou ris ts seem to pen etra te as

as Prim i itsel h c h s ill r etains ch far m f , w i t mu i o f its rim it cha rm —e ven if is n l n e s p m it o o g r , a

e l S te tm d escri ed it l in dis . L s ie p b , y g at a

o f so rrr tho usand iles or e or l ss and tance m , m e , two o r thrz centur ies fro m railways and

’ c iviliza tion . It is true tat elec tric la mps light the str eets at night ancﬁra t a pos t ar rives with

e ht r e r has no t r gularity , fo m yet 78

T HE D OLOMITES and ready to receive strangers with a fr iendli ness that does not appear as an item on the r bill . If the accommodation is p imitive it is at all events the best they have to offer ; t and it is immensely cheap . If the a tendance is not ﬁr st - rate there is a pleas ant homeliness about the domestic arrangements which more than makes up for any little shortcomings in

other ways . The mother of the family gener

ally cooks for her guests ; the father looks after

the stabling ; the sons and daughters wait at

’ table . All take a personal interest in one s f com ort . All are anxious to oblige .

- o f This is true to day Primiero at any rate , except that o n e need not make any qualifying reservations respecting the accommodation

or the attendance . We did come across here some more English —and very astonishing persons they were too ! The writer had arrived from his visit to the Val di Canali and was recounting his ad

ventures to the stay- at - home artist and ﬁlling

u m him with envy , hatred , malice and all

charitableness at dinner , when there appeared 80 A ES C H INES

E h two elderly , aggressively respectable nglis

di l o f la es , who sai ed to the other end the long — dining table . The usual preliminary courtesies e were exchang d , and then we were electriﬁed by the following question : I wonder if either of you gentlemen can tell me something

u I am anxious to ﬁnd o t . Do you happen to know whether there is any good recent trans lation o f Aeschines ? The artist s at dumb with amazement ; he was no t quite sure whether Aeschines was a town ,

he a ﬂower o f . , or a range mountains T writer was quite helpless ; the unexpected question was so bafﬂing that he could only murmur feebly something about Jebb and retire hastily hi into s shell . It could only happen in the

one Dolomites , surely , that could be asked about Aeschines at the table o f a small country inn !

8! CHAPTER VII

SAN MARTINO DI CA STROZZA—THE ROLLE PA SS — — PANEVE G G IO THE LU SIA PA SS — THE FAS SATHAL ‘

AN MARTINO is somewhat gr and ilo quently described In certain guide ” o f books as the Paradise the Dolomites .

It might , perhaps , be termed with more justice ” i o f - the Parad se the hotel keepers , for the place is little more than a collection o f hotels ;

is but it a great climbing centre . being within easy reach of all the peaks in the Pala group , and its situation commands a magniﬁcent view . The road from Primiero leads up the Val Primiero and goes straight into the heart o f

di 2 00 the mountains , ascen ng about 5 feet in the course o f some nine miles . The most striking View from San Martino t is that owards the east , where the Cimon

l Rose ta di della Pa a , the , the Cima Ball , g2

T HE D OLOMITES

e we were very comfortable , but the prosp ct o f further questions about obscure Greek dramatists was too formidable to contemplate ,

r and moreover, our prog amme had to be carried ou t . Accordingly we started early (before the English ladies had arisen) and took the

San M b diligence to artino , arriving there a out

’ o f nine o clock . The rest the morning and most of the afternoon was spent by the artist in trying still more methods and by the author in offering invaluable suggestions which were invariably rejected . We had heard a good deal beforehand of the view to be obtained at sunset o f the Pala

San M group from artino , and waited anxiously

for during the day the proper moment . To wards the end o f the afternoon our anxiety increased , for clouds began to gather round the range and we were afraid that we were

of going to be robbed the great spectacle . At precisely the right time, however, the clouds obligingly began to clear, and then ensued the most extraordinary transformation scene it has ever been my good fortune to 84 A W ON DE RFU L SPE CT A CLE

G — watch . radually almost imperceptibly the mists lifted and disclosed peak after peak , lit up by the setting sun , the delicate colours of the rocks themselves making them glow i with marvellous rad ance . Below them wisps o f r e - cloud formed , melted , and formed , and ﬂoated along in front o f the grey masses o f

o f rock , lending an impression enormous height to each peak . It seemed as if it were a specially- arranged exhibition ; for as one sum mit after another disclosed itself, and never two at once , it appeared as if they were trying to outvie each other in the effect they produced upon us . The Cimon della Pala , the Rosetta , M the Cima di Ball , the Pala di San artino , each showed its beauties for a moment and then delicately veiled its loveliness .

on o u t o f o u r Later , when we looked room on the same range bathed in the moonlight , the mists had completely disappeared , and with them had gone the impression of great height and distance ; so close did the mountains appear to be that it seemed but a step from o - l h u r window si l to t e top o f the peaks . 85

THE D O LOMITES

From San Martino the road leads north wards over the Rolle Pass to Paneveggio and thence to Predazzo . Once more we made an early start by the diligence and found the ascent o f the Rolle

Pass most interesting ; it was a bright morning and the view down the valley towards the Vette

eltr e - di F was clear cut and sharp , but the great point of interest throughout was the Cimon

— - della Pala the so called Matterhorn o f the

Dolomites . As we saw it from San Martino the t e semblance to the better- known Swiss mountain was sufﬁciently remote , but viewed from the northern side o f the Rolle Pass it suddenly changed from an apparent ﬂat - topped moun tain of some length to a pinnacle rising sheer and abrupt to a sharp point . Here again was an illustration o f the fact which we have mentioned before with respect to the Dolomite peaks , namely , that their curious shapes render them very different in appearance when viewed from different points ; one has to get a c lear d ea o f the topography sé T HE C IMON DELL A P A LA

the for one of district , if trusted to recognising the various mountains by their outlines on e l M wou d soon be hopelessly lost . onte Cris tallo , as we have said , when seen from the

Diir r en See f , is a totally di ferent mass from the Monte Cristallo seen from Tre Croci ;

the r while Drei Zinnen , as viewed f om the M isurina Lake , might well be altogether separate peaks from the Drei Zinnen o n e l looks at from Landro . But the Cimon de la Pala was the most notable example of this i pecul arity that we had come across . The feature that interested us more than l anything else about the Cimon del a Pala , as we passed it o n o u r way through the Rolle

Pass , was the diversity of the colouring in the rock . Here we could at last see all the boasted shades o f the Dolomite of romance and

’ travellers tales ; there was no doubt about it ,

n o t — she for once rumour had lied nay , had

o f n o t been guilty the slightest exaggeration .

was n o f There the familiar grey and faw , course

h n o is (without w ich Dolomite complete) , but 87 THE D OLOMITES

o f there were further streaks rich orange ,

was purple , a curious sort of mauve which

m - r al ost violet , and a delicate yellowish g een — all these tints in o ne mountain !

a o f Truly, the coral insect which had ch rge this particular piece o f work had let himself go and given full play to his fancy . In places o n e was irresistibly reminded o f the

so the Neapolitan ice , regular did various colours seem in their arrangement . We were lost in amazement at this extra

- ordinary sight , but our fellow travellers (Germans and Austrians it is needless to say)

l In w were whol y occupied getting edel eiss , which seemed to be abundant in these parts .

We noted , however, that they did not gather it themselves , but bought it in bunches from the o f who seem to children the district , have anticipated the demand and furnished a supply to meet it . The nature o f the scenery changed as soon

" as we had passed the summit o f the pass ;

it proved tame and uninteresting , and we were mainly occupied in admiring the glorious 88

T HE LUS I A P A S S Cimon della Pala in retrospect as long as it remained in view . The road descended rapidly

o f to Paneveggio , which consists , practically ,

the hotel , and here we left the diligence , which went on to Predazzo .

We , however , had planned to walk over the Lusia Pass and left the main road at this point . A long ascent through pine woods by a well marked path took us at length to a level tract o f o f meadowland, and thence to the summit

6 sea the pass ( 745 feet above level) , where we

e o f found a welcome inn . H re we partook much - needed refreshment and rested awhile before making o u r way down to the Fassa thal . On reaching the other side o f the Lusia Pass a further surprise awaited us ; the Dolomite

district is indeed unrivalled in this respect . It can furnish more surprises to the square mile than any other mountain district that

is . known Looking back , we still had the

Vez zan a and Cimon della Pala , the Cima di , the rest o f the group o wer ing u p against the g9

THE D OLOMITES sk - y line , but in front of us there suddenly

appeared another large and important group , while away in the far , far distance was a line o f snow Alps evidently of great height . A reference to the map (followed by the usual discussion) revealed the fact that the gr oups immediately in front o f us were the celebrated l Rosengarten range , with the scarcely less wel

Lan kofel S known g and ella groups , while the remote mountains were made ou t to be the

hal Oetzt Alps . Every peak stood out clear and sharp in the morning light , and it was with

o f something a thrill that the author, at any

m a lc rate , looked for the ﬁrst time on the g garden o f King Laurin . We had heard so much o f this range before that we were almost prepared to be disappointed, but the ﬁrst

o ou r view f it quite came up to expectations . Predazzo is classic ground for the miner '

i on alog st . It has been said of it good authority that such a variety o f igneous rocks within a comparatively narrow compass can hardly be found elsewhere in Europe ; some have supposed that the village is situated in a 9 0 PRED A Z ZO

- burnt out crater, but every trace of the volcanic cones has disappeared . We are told , however, that there must once have been here , countless ages ago , a great eruptive

o u t centre , breaking again and again , and each time throwing up a different kind o f rock . It is this gr eat variety of igneous rocks that has attracted to Predazzo so many eminent

. As scientists from all parts , however, we could n o t lay claim to the t itle we preferred to make o u r way straight to Moena . Moena is a large straggling village where

- on wood cutting is carried , and at this point the valley is known as the Fassathal; below

l im s r thal Moena it is called the F e e . We had reached this point rather earlier than we had expected (mainly owing to the sudden energy exhibited by the artist) , and we therefore determined to go further and make o u r way slowly up the valley to Campitello .

se t o u t ho t d Accordingly we along the , usty road in the middle o f an exceptionally hot

. w day It is the hitest , hottest and dustiest

o f road that ever was made by the hand man . 9 1 THE D OLOMITES With ﬁendish ingenuity it managed to evade

o f o f every vestige shade , going out its way to f keep well in the sun , and never o fering the least opportunity to the parched and weary

o r traveller in the shape of a tree even a bush . We did once come to a trough o f water by the roadside , and stayed there for some time ,

in d eed ettin plunging our arms into it , and g g as much of ourselves in the cool liquid as we could ; but this only seemed to make our subsequent journey hotter It is a remarkable fact that the haymakers here in their mid- day rest do n ot appear to

ou t o n seek a sheltered , shady spot , even

o u t the the hottest day , but lie in sun , as if

i they could never have enough of it .

Now , in rich contrast to the pallid Dolo ” mites soaring high in the distance , to quote M iss Edwards once more , the famous por phyr y o f the Fassathal begins to break out

in crimson patches among the lower hills , and to appear in the cliff- walls that border the Y Avisio far below . onder , where the stream takes a sudden bend , two isolated porphyry 9 2

T HE D OLOMITES

I 82 one o f S . ( 35 ft) , the ella group t dominated the scene and was a most imposing sight ; it is rather darker than most of the Dolomites we had previously seen and seemed to convey an impression of massive strength rather than that o f fantastic eccentricity . With this magniﬁcent mass in front of us growing in grandeur with every step we took towards it , we at last reached Campitello .

94 CHAPTER VIII — CAMPITELLO THE FEDAJA AND FA SSA PA SSE S - THE SELLA PA SS—THE LANGKOFE L GRO UP

T gives o ne at ﬁrst something o f a shock to see a large notice prominently d is played at the entrance to a village bearing the

Ad io word ag on it . We remember that

o f we are in Italy , the land song ; we reﬂect that the love o f music is ingrained in these people . Obviously , just as Pope was a born

fo r poet who lisped in numbers , the numbers ” so came , these people think in musical terms and print even commonplace notices in the f language o music .

We then discover , however , that it is merely a warning to motorists to drive slowly when going through the village .

u s The idea still fascinates , and we feel a little disappointment , on leaving the village , 9 5 TH E D OLOMITES

that we do not see another notice board with , ” A tem o at any rate , p inscribed upon it ; we had almost hoped to see Allegr o m a non ” tr o o or S cher zando pp , even , but that would

. o ne be too much to expect Really , when

one considers the matter, realises how ﬁtting the musical terms are to the movements o f automobiles ; how often has one seen a motor car indulging in tem po r u bato; and many a ca r icciaso is p movement performed , unwill in l g y , by an inexperienced driver . Campitello is a quaint little mountain village lying at the base o f the Langko fel . It is admirably adapted for various excursions

Ro d ella Lan ko fel Plattko fel the , the g , the ,

Schler n B o es itze the and the p , all being within comparatively easy reach . We had occasion to spend som e time here

on a quietly , attempting nothing grand scale , but contenting ourselves with a gentle walk

Con tr in Hiitte towards the , with the idea of

ar m la a obtaining good views o f the M o t .

The road up to the hut is easy, but the day

hot was , and when we had reached a point 96

THE . D OLOMITES

an usual , quite alone , with no sign of y fellow

creature to be seen) , that a number of small brown butterﬂies persistently hovered round

e ou r us and s ttled on hands , arms and clothing l in the most fami iar way . At one time no less than four had settled on the artist’ s hands at

to the same moment , seeming ﬁnd a particular fascination in the artistic temperament . We r etu r ned to our inn during the afternoon in time to despatch ou r baggage by the post, as we were intending to start on a two or three

’ n days excursion o the following day .

The Fed aj a Pass (6710 feet above sea- level) is reached from Campitello in a little more

on than three hours , and it is from the inn the Fed aj a Alp j ust below that the ascent of the

Fo r Mar m olata is usually made . a long time this mountain was thought to be inaccessible .

It is the highest peak in the Dolomites , being over feet above the level of the sea

o f e but , as a matter fact , it is , for a Dolomit

peak , comparatively easy of access . The Fed aj a Pass leads down Into the Val Candiar ei past the Sa so Bianco (7900 feet) 9g

THE D OLOMITE S

A constant stream o f v isitors was coming and going, and the hut presented quite an animated appearance ; we were , however, once more struck by the absence o f English travellers , all the people we met being either

Ger mans or Austrians . After a brief stay for refreshment we set o ff for the Langko feljoch which runs (01 — rather climbs for even a path coul d not be said to r u n up such a steep declivity) b e tween the Fiinfﬁnger spitz e and the Langko fel proper . The Langkofel group resembles the Drei

o f o f Zinnen , in that it consists huge masses

o f r i . isolated rock , the same weird colou ng

The palm must , however, be awarded to the Langko fel peaks ; their shape is more singular l and more beautifu , and their colour is more delicate and much to be preferred . The pass (which is merely a narrow path between two o f 8800 the peaks) reaches the altitude of feet , and after a stiff bit o f climbing the summit was gained and we made ou r way down on the o ther side . 100 T HE L A NG KOF E L H UT

The contrast was most striking ; we had left a fairly Open plateau , lying in the blazing sun S , with the hospitable ella House in the middle , and tourists passing to and fro along

- the well marked road . We came down through deep snow into a narrow , barren , but most imposing gully , through a depression ﬁlled

é Lan ko fel with d bris , to the g Hut , which seems overshadowed by the enormous masses of rock l f underneath whose c i fs it lies . As we had reached the hut so much earlier

for o f than we had anticipated , the energy the artist continued unabated , we determined to extend our day’ s journey and push on to

n St Ulrich . We accordi gly made only a short fﬁ stop at the hut , just su cient to enable us to

o f l partake an excel ent meal (it is noteworthy ,

o ne perhaps , that at all these huts can always

o f obtain a plate capital soup) , and then we made ou r way down towards the Gr Od en

Con ﬁn valley . We reached the Boden all ri ght , but here , for the ﬁrst time in the course o f all ou r wanderings , found ourselves at fault in hitting o ff the exact path . I O I T HE D OLOMITES

I u t sho ld perhaps be mentioned that , throughout the whole district , the paths are ,

r u as a le , marked with unmistakable clearness . There are those—the purists among travellers — who object to having their way pointed ou t s o clearly for them , preferring to guide them

or o f selves by instinct the light nature , with the assistance of the map and compass ; but for the ordinary. person the splashes of red , blue or yellow paint on the trees and rocks are most

f on welcome , and it is a little di ﬁcult to see w hat grounds they can be objected to . They

too o f are not obtrusive , and in the case misty or rainy weather they are simply invalu

ictu r able ; they add, moreover, a touch of p esq u eness to the comparatively dull parts of a walk (they were , indeed , quite dear

o f to the heart the artist , who found them far easier to catch than the Dolomites themselves) , and are altogether much to be commended .

u In this partic lar instance , however , the

r ed cherished marks failed us , and after various e xcursions and alarms , heated discussions and 102

T HE D OLOMITES so as we sat refreshing ourselves a t a small inn in St Christina a brilliant idea occurred

‘ e to the writer . He determin d to hire a carriage and make ou r entrance into St Ulrich

' r u in style . The sc ples of the rest o f the par ty dif were overcome without much ﬁculty, and a conveyance was obtained in a very short o time . We drove down the Gr den valley well pleased with ourselves and arrived at St Ulrich In time to escape a heavy thunder storm . We had sent on our luggage from Campitello on the previous day , and entertained faint hopes that we might ﬁnd ou r bags here on our

e i arrival ; those hopes were , however, sp ed ly

and dashed to the ground , we were obliged to possess ou r souls in patience and await the

’ r nin advent o f the n ex t m o g s post .

For o f the pedestrian , the system sending on the heavier luggage by post— carrying in a nick- sack merely the necessaries for a night or ' two - is most convenient and by no means f expensive . The only di ﬁculty arises when one goes across the frontier into Italy ; but this 104 A PE RS ON A L I N C I DE NT may be avoided by a little forethought and arrangement . If we may refer in these pages to a more l than usual y personal incident , we may here confess the reason o f the anxiety with which the advent o f the luggage was looked forward

’ to o f on this occasion . A portion the author s d war robe , which was , it must be admitted ,

- f well worn even at the start , had su fered severely dur ing the day ; so severely indeed that he found it necessary to wrap his wetter

mantel like a martial cloak around him , even when there was nothing in the climatic con

t n di io s to warrant his wearing it at all . The obliging zim m er - m a d chen at St Ulrich was able to afford temporary relief (though she shook her head doubtfully over the garments when

o f they were shown to her) , but to a person modest temperament the situation was dis tinc tl y embarrassing .

10 5 CHAPTER IX — THE GRODE N VALLE Y ST ULRICH

T U LRICH is a very prosperous and ﬂourishing village in the Groden v alley principally celebrated for the fact that some o f the inhabitants still Speak the Ladin dialect

for (which we were unable to verify ourselves , but which we were quite willing to take for

o f who granted) , and that the majority those are n ot engaged in hotel- keeping are em

- ployed in wood carving . The Ladin dialect is supposed to be derived directly from the Latin and not through the

o f is interm ediary Italian ; it , apparently , f very different from ex“isting dialects o modern Italian , and though in some points closely resembling the Rhaeto Romansch o f the

Grisons , and the lower Romanese of the

so Engadine , it is yet distinctly separated

- f from both by well marked di ferences , both 106

THE D OLOMITE S great number o f relatively inferi or ar ticles made o f wood were offered at high prices . We explained that this was not at all what was wanted ; we wished to see the wood carver at work— to view the little wooden

’ animals we loved in Childhood s happy days

o f All in the process manufacture . this , in ' ’ G the author s choicest erman , at length pro d u c ed f the desired e fect , and we were referred

’ to Mor o d er s workshop ; we could not mistake it as there was a large wooden ﬁgure outside . We made ou r w ay through the village “and found that the description given was not ex a erated gg , for the ﬁgure (whether it was that of

M or o an ancestor of oroder, a Tyrolese her , or a

e u Roman soldier, we did not discov r) was f lly twenty feet high and o f noble proportions With a good deal of difﬁculty we did at last penetrate into the workshop and had the supreme satisfaction o f s eeing some o f the

- wood carvers at work and were duly impressed .

o f A great many the people , however, work

own al s in their homes , princip ly on toy Noah ’ s Ark animals and the like—“and it is 10 8 W OOD - CA R VI NG said that one workman will spend all his time making nothing but horses , for example , each

n o e precisely like the other , without the slightest variation in the pattern ; another will make lions or cats or camels ; but the maker o f horses never entrenches upon the domain o f - the artist in lions , nor does the lion maker venture to try his skill in making a horse . The particular workmen whom we saw were — employed o n church work wooden altar l pieces , lecterns and simi ar articles ; they were most o f them copying the designs from old i prints , and wh le it was doubtless very interesting it did not strike us that the results were o f a very high class .

see We did , however, various people carrying about large baskets ﬁlled with toys ; one woman had her basket full o f nothing but

’ s o Noah s Ark horses , that it really seemed as if there were some foundation for the stories we had heard .

There was also an exhibition o f the work o f — o ne man apparently quite a distinguished — artist among them who , besides producing 109 THE D OLOMITES

e - a som really ﬁne wood carving , had p inted a

o i number f pictures in oils . Of the p ctures it would be most charitable to say as little as pos

o f cr u ciﬁx es sible , but some the wooden which were shown were very much above the average .

- They were all distinctly high priced . Miss Edwards tells how she visited one old woman who had devoted her life to carving cats , dogs , wolves , sheep , goats and elephants .

she was Evidently a versatile artist , to be able

six al She to deal with as many as anim s . has made these six animals her whole life

o f ou t long , and has no idea how to anything else . She makes them in two sizes ; and She turns o u t as nearly as possible a thousand o f them every year . There was ample material here for dis c u ssion as to the beneﬁt conferred by the introduction o f machinery ; St Ulrich woul d afford an excellent example o f the advantages — and disadvantages o f hand made prod uctions .

o n e all On the hand , the people seem to be fairly happy and contented in their work ;

on one r but the other, cannot suppose that the e I 10

T HE D OLOMITE S

As the sunset glow increased in intensity the spectacle became more and more beautiful ; but the covering of snow destroyed thedelicacy o f o f the colouring the rocks themselves , and we realized what the picture - postcard artists

r — were , at any ate , striving after even if they were not always successfu l .

ll of There was sti no Sign the luggage , and the

’ author s anxiety hourly increased, for though ,

ﬁ t he thanks to the kind of ces of chambermaid , d ed all fears of immediate isaster were avert , the situation was far from pleasant as the day wore w on and the garments continued to ear out .

‘ We were again impressed (as we had been throughout the journey) with the great ad vantages of the Germ an and Austrian hotel system over the English . The custom of having a restaurant attached to the larger

hotels , where one may dine comfortably with o u t being subj ected to the tedium of table

’ ’ hote d , is one which must be appreciated by every sensible traveller . At the big hotels here and at Cortina there seemed to be a sort of — ’ double arrangement a table d hate for those I 12

T HE D OLOMITES are absolutely unapproachable—and perhaps it is not altogether to be desired that they should be imitated in this respect— and that is in the amount o f time and thought they spend upon their food . It is quite amusing on a train journey to watch a family o f well- to- do Germans ; they seem to have provided a m eal o f some sort for every possible occasion . No sooner are they comfortably settled in the carriage than a large package is brought ou t and s chinken

r i br ad is d ist b irted all round . This is followed by fruit o f some kind (unripe apricots seem to

o f be generally favoured) , and , course , a pocket tumbler is handy and a bottle o f wine is shared among the company . Should the train

' stop for any length o f tirne at a station the

i la m In opportun ty of y g fresh supplies , per

o f or - haps sausages hard boiled eggs , is eagerly

o ne l seized upon , while no can let s ip the chance of a glass o f beer when it is brought to

’ one s very lips . This goes o n all day until one wonders at the capacity for consumption displayed . 1 14 A RR IV A L OF TH E LUG G A G E Our second evening at St Ulrich passed without the arrival of the eagerly- awaited

ou r luggage , but the next morning fears were l dispel ed , for they came by the ﬁrst post , and the writer was able to effect a speedy change and dispense with the services o f his tr usted

- wetter mantel .

s et on This us free , too , to embark the next

r stage o f o u journey . We had proposed to

o n Schlem ourselves to go to the , and on the following day to make a long ten hours’ ex c u r sion to the Karer See . The prospect was viewed with no little apprehension by the

t o artist , but he was exhorted by the author brace himself to the ordeal , and in a valiant

o state f resolution we retired to rest .

115 CHAPTER X — KASTELRUTH THE S E ISE R ALP—THE S CHLE RN

HE road from St Ulrich to Kastelruth is di i an easy one , lea ng through the v llages

u n adits h o f St Michael and R gg c . Kastelruth itself is what is known in the guide-books as ” a favourite summer resort, which generally m eans a place to be avoided ; as , however, we had no intention o f staying there for any length o f time it made no material difference to us .

It lies in a hollow , with its church standing

n o a small eminence , and on a rocky hill below St the village is a chapel to Kummernitz . This saint was a lady about whom there is a

he c urious legend . S is represented as wearing a beard, and it is said to have been granted her as a protection against the pertin acity o f

THE D OLOMITE S surprised to learn that it is the largest pasture land in Tyrol . I M E magine , says iss dwards , an American prairie lifted up bodily upon a plateau from 5500 to 6000 feet in height ; imagine a waving sea of deep grass taking the broad ﬂood o f the summer sunshine and the

ﬂoating shadows o f the clouds ; realise how this upper world of pasture feeds from thirteen to ﬁfteen hundred head of horned cattle ;

’ c ontains three hundred her d sm en s huts and four hundred hay chalets supports a large summer popul ation o f haymakers and cow herds ; and measures no less than thirty- six

English miles in circumference ; and then ,

after all , I doubt if you will have con c eived any kind o f mental picture that does

j ustice to the original . The air up here

is indescribably pure , invigorating and G delicious . iven a good road leading up

S or from eis Kastelruth , and a fairly good

on hotel the top , the Seiser Alp , as a M G mountain resort , would beat onte eneroso ,

Alb isb r u nn Seelisb u r r S , g , eve y ommer I I 8and T HE S CHL E RN frisch on this side o f Italy o u t o f the

ﬁeld .

ri a o This was w tten many years g , and there is now a good road leading up from Seis and

02 Kastelruth , while the Seiser Alpenhaus (7 5

as feet) is occupied an inn in summer . It can hardly be said , however, that it has as yet l fu ﬁlled the predictions concerning it , for it is mainly used as a resting- place on the way to hl m the Sc e . The S chler n is undoubtedly the great

o f feature the View from the Seiser Alp .

S chler n The , to the southwest , writes

Mr G o f ilbert this particular view, forms the

o f a’ mighty buttress the whole ; the Ross Z hne , — red teeth well named , both from form and — colour follow , stretching eastward . Then come the gigantic masses o f the Plattko fel and

Lan ko fel o ff the g ; the ﬁrst , sliced , as by the

of malice a Titan , at a single blow ; the second ,

r o f - an a ray splintered Spires , ashy tinted or

o f r pale yellow . A confusion cinde y peaks and precipices succeed , bearing northward ; a green elevation of the Seiser itself hides 119 T HE D OLOMITES

o f al more them from view, as it has ready ” r tl r hi hidden the Oe e and s fellows .

As we h have said , owever, the principal feature o f the Seiser Alp is its apparent

’ endlessness ; it needed all the author s powers o f encouragement and persuasion to convince the artist that the j ourney across the Alp would ever come to an end . The ﬂowers

c are particularly ri h in this district ; indeed , it is said that no mountain in the Alps has acquired s o great a reputation among botanists as the S chler n for the richness o f its ﬂora a nd

- for the rare plants it produces . The Schler n H ouse (8040 feet) is another o f those excellent Alpine huts that abound in the Dolomite region ; it commands a superb a f p norama , is comfortable , and a fords good accommodation .

To the south - west lies the snowy range of the High Alps f rom the Adamello ; on the

- on north east , the Hohe Tauern , while the east one of the ﬁnest views of the Dolomites

-b e - Lan ko fel to obtained anywhere the g , the

Plattkofel Rossz ahne n , the , the Rosengarte 120

THE D OLOMITE S

n however, of late , show that he possessed

o f w c on unexpected powers endurance , hich vinc ed the author that there would be no difﬁculty in accomplishing the dreaded ex

cu r sion , and it was with no misgivings that

the last tramp was entered upon .

I ZZ CHAPTER XI — THE S CHLE RN TO THE KARE R S E E THE G RAS — LE ITE N HUT THE VAJOLE T THURME THE KOLNE R HUT—THE KARE R S EE B OTZEN .

ERHAPS it was the anxiety and the thought of what lay before us o n the morrow ; perhaps it was the rareﬁed atmo sphere or the fact that we had to retire to our beds at a very early hour ; for in these mountain huts it is usual for the visitors to

’ or go to bed at eight o clock , very soon after

o f r o indeed , there is in some them a notice p m in ently displayed requesting the guests to make as little noise as possible after nine at night and before nine in the morning .

From whatever cause it may have been ,

did n o t however , the fact remained that we pass a very restful night , and were both quite ready to get up about half- past ﬁve the next 12 3 T HE D OLOMITE S

morning . Long before this we had heard

o u r - some of fellow travellers stirring , and by the time we arrived down in the Speise- Saal a goodly company o f tourists was already engaged in consuming coffee and making their preparations to start . Once we have begun an early morning j our ney there is something peculiarly attractive about it which renders it much more enj oyable than an ordinary tramp commenced at a more reasonable hour . Perhaps it is the feeling o f conscious virtue that one has in having got up at an unearthly hour ; for this occasion we have shown ourselves superior to ordinary

al on ou r o f mort s , and we go way full self satisfaction , which carries us along over stony paths and slippery grass slopes , braced by the fresh morning air and certainly enj oying the effects which are only to be obtained at such hours as these . Our way led at ﬁrst over the Schlem Alp

o f Rother d s itz and round the base the red p e . Following the excellent path along the slopes of Tier ser the Alp with its scanty herbage , 12 4

THE DOLOMITES

day , and felt that we should not stay at the di e hut too long , notwithstan ng its ﬁn position at the foot o f the steep Gr asleitenthu r m and

Gr asleiten itz n the sp e . The artist particularly

o f was anxious to get the worst it over, as he

so expressed it , with ﬁerce determination we set out once more . Our route now lay to the south- east across

G - the rasleiten Kessel , and we had to mount over rough shale and loose stones , followed by

- ﬁeld G s a steep snow , to the rasleiten Pa s , between the Kesselkogel and the Kleiner

Valb u o nko el g , making frequent halts with the ostensible obj ect of admiring the Molignon — and the Molignon Pass the path to which led

- up in numerous zig zags behind u s . On ou r right were the Grosser and Kleiner

Valb u onko el on S eekO el g , and our left the g and the west ridge o f the Kesselkogel, the highest peak o f the whole Rosengarten group. The Grasleiten Pass was formerly called ” t the Sella del Principe , after a seventeen h

C r entu y Bishop of Brixen , who once crossed it to reach the Fassathal. 126 TH E VA J OLE T TO WERS Here the artist felt that he was at last doing something which was really worthy o f his powers ; he had hitherto be en somewhat

’ sc om fu l of the writer s tales o f mou ntain eer in x g e ploits , but after about an hour

’ or so s steady tramp over snow he was inclined to think that there was more in the sport than he had been disposed to allow . At any rate he as well as the writer was quite satisﬁed to

o f reach the top the pass , which lies about

8 0 sea- 53 feet above level , and to enjoy the

Va olet Th m striking view . The j iir e and the Ro sengar t en spitz e formed the most c on s ic u ou s i p features to the right , wh le on the left the Sc alier etspitz e and the Cima di Lausa

’ monopolised one s attention . A divergence to the left from this point

An ter m o a leads to the j Pass , and thence to the wild Anter m oj athal with its little lake at

ll an o f Fa w d . the foot the We had no time , however , to make this excursion , but had to push on to the Vaj olet Hut which lies at the

a l t foot of the celebrated V j o e Towers . These rocks are undoubtedly some o f the 127 THE D OLOMITE S most impressive to be foun d in the whole o f “ the Dolomite region . The towers are six

and in number , they rise up sheer in the well

n c know Dolomite manner, assuming fantasti shapes and looking as if it would be quite impossible for any ordinary mortal not pos sessed of wings to attain to their summits .

Yet o ne o f every them has been ascended, though it is admitted that they are only

- l suitable for the ﬁnest rock c imbers . We were fortunate enough to see some very ﬁne effects while we were taking our ease at the hut . A heavy mist had rolled up from the plains below , and though the view was clear when we arrived , shortly afterwards the curtain descended and blotted out all the peaks from sight .

Now and then , however, the sun would make a great effort and burst through a vu lnerable part of the mist for a moment and Show u s the top o f some neighbouring crag standing u plike the mast o f a sunken vessel rising above the waves . ‘ I t was then , however, that the writer 128

THE D OLOMITES

this outrage , and determined to rescue the

o f maiden from the clutches the goblin king. Accordingly they stormed his stronghold l in the Sch em . It is not known by what exact route they penetrated into the dwarf s kingdom ; at any rate , after a ﬁerce battle they succeeded in vanquishing the goblin in Spite o f his magic powers . Dietrich wa s desirous o f killing the little dwarf out of hand and putting an end to all

Dietlieb the bother , but apparently his squire , , was of a more humanitarian nature and per

’ su ad ed his master to Spare the monarch s life . This ill- advised clemency had disastrous results , for the treacherous goblin , pretending f to be overcome with gratitude , o fered them food and refreshment after their labours and gave them some drugged wine . The usual result ensued ; when the foolish pair awoke from their heavy slumber it was to ﬁnd themselves bound and helpless in a dungeon o f the wicked king .

r w Lau in , ho ever, had reckoned without the 130 THE KOLNE R H UT

young lady, who rej oiced in the name of f Sim ild . She managed to e fect their release ; another tremendous battle ensued , and once more the dwarfs were defeated . This time the business was fought to a ﬁnish the magic roses o f n Laurin were ruthlessly trodden under foot and his palace was utterly destroyed . It is only at sunset that the roses bloom now on the peaks which rise above the spot where once King Laurin ’ s palace stood in all its glory . By the time this fascinating legend was related the mist had cleared away , and we were

o u r Kolner able to resume journey to the Hut .

Gar d ecia It was a ﬁne and easy route , past the

Huts , over scanty pastures , and ﬁnally scree , to the Tsc hag er j o ch Pass between the Coronelle

Ts c ha er kam m and the g , where there is a good

Lar ec u ni View o f the s and M go groups . From the pass we made o u r way over scree and easy

oln r rocks to the K e Hut itself . This we reached

’ about four o clock .

The greater part o f o u r ten -hour- day was now accomplished and we were by no 13 1 THE D OLOMITES

means exhausted . It was with difﬁculty indeed that the artist could be persuaded to stay even for a moment at the Kolner Hut ; he was desirous of going right on to the

Karer See Hotel without any break . He was n a i duced, however , to restrain his ardour n d f swallow some co fee , and we then quietlystrolled down by the Tschager j och and the Tschager

W o f ald to the Karer See , with ﬁne views the

em ar on Lat in front of us the way . The Karer See is on e of the most celebrated and fashionable resorts in the Dolomites , and

d o u r one therefore , accor ing to ideas , to be

a avoided . We felt , however, that fter the stupendous exertions o f the previous day we e were entitled to a morning of idleness , and w accordingly decided to take things very easily in the morning and go by the diligence to

Botzen in the afternoon . The situation of the lake is very ﬁne ; the

w o f green waters ith a background pine woods , while beyond rise the deeply- ﬁssu r ed rocks o f the Lat em ar with their curiously- coloured O h patches . ne cannot but feel , however, t at I 32

THE D OLOMITES part o f the valley; we go through tunnels and

see pass waterfalls and , besides , an unromantic

electn cit dam for y works , with the mouth of a big tunnel for a water conduit blasted in the

on f rock the opposite side o the river . Presently we come to the picturesque castle o f Kar neid ( 1565 feet above s ea- level) about

is which a curious legend related . According to Mr Churchill , the story runs as follows In a time o f plague the family o f Lichten stein (the original owners o f the castle) had

o f vowed to make a pilgrimage , with presents

f ou r d of money and other o ferings , to La y

Weissenstein , should they be preserved from the contagion . Weissenstein is a little place in the porphyry plateau , about seven miles

o f Kar neid south as the crow ﬂies , which possessed at that time a celebrated picture

0 one o f the Madonna . N in the Schloss was

d e attacke by the malady , though great numb rs in the immediate neighbourhood fell victims . But when the plague had disappeared the

vo w Lichtensteins , forgetting their , thought they might as well save the cost of the pilgrim 134 BOTZ EN

S n d . a age uddenly the plague returned , they were all laid low in death . On the same night the castle doors were heard to ﬂy Open , and a

00 o f e tr p pale horses , b aring the cloaked

ﬁgures of the dead , was seen galloping towards

Weissenstein . The church door there opening o f own its accord , the procession passed in ,

ri and the ghastly ders threw themselves down , with a frightful clatter, before the holy picture . In the morning the monks found a heap of blackened corpses upon the ﬂoor ! In this manner was the breach of faith avenged upon the perjured . It is said that a representation o f this scene still exists in the church at ” Weissenstein . S till descending , we cross the railway and

B so ou r the River isak , and make way into

’ Botzen , which is reached about seven o clock . Hastily depositing our belongings in the hotel we went some little way o u t of the town in order to see the celebrated view o f the Rosen garten , ﬂushed with the evening glow . We were fortunate enough to manage this success

o u o u r fully . The impression left minds , 135 T HE D OLOMITE S

however, was that this View of the Dolomites

so was not striking as that seen from Tob lach .

At Botzen the mountains are too far away ; they certainly look weird and impossible

n e ough , but they are , perhaps , just a shade

too incredible . Seen from such a distance one might be tempted to ascribe their grotesque form and bizarre coloration to atmospheric f e fect , to anything , indeed , rather than to actual fact . But at Toblach the Dolomites are close upon

ou y ; you cannot escape from them . There is

o f no denying them , no chance quoting the

o f mirage the desert , the spectre of the Brocken or other similar atmospheric conjuring tricks . The Dolomites as seen from Toblach demand instant acceptance ; at Botzen they resolve

v themselves into the baseless fabric of a ision . One leaves with an image o f a distant sky- line of incredible colour , impossible forms , all massed together without method or rule, a

ll o f veritable wa fairyland . Mr Gilbert thus describes his ﬁrst sight o f

: You ll see the Dolomites from Botzen wi , 136

CHAPTER XII

THE PE OPLE OF TY ROL—CU STOMS AND CHAR ACTE RISTIC S A OMMODA ON NN CC TI , I S , F D ET OO , C .

B have already commented o n the

of simple , kindly nature the people that one meets with in the course of a tou r i through the Dolomite d strict , and it may be o f some interest to give a slight account o f the inhabitants generally and the impression made upon the casual tourist . So fara s we were able to observe the villagers were particularly gentle and courteous ; we r e marked that we rarely saw any instances of harsh treatment . The children seemed happy and contented, even the poorest of them , and wewere almost invariably met with hospitality . Tyrol may be said to be a religious country ; wayside shrines abound , and a curious custom o f erecting memorials by the road where some 138 T HE W A Y S I DE S HRI NE

accident has occurred still persists . One meets constantly with a little shrine adorned

u m with a small picture showing , perhaps , an fortunate peasant being overwhelmed by a landslip or falling beneath the wheels o f a

is n o t o f hi wagon ; the art the ghest , perhaps , but the sincerity o f the artist is beyond all question . The principal ﬁgure in the painting is generally immaculately attired in his Sunday f best , and it is sometimes a little di ﬁcult to

’ reconcile the drawing with one s preconceived ideas o f perspective and the like . There is

o f generally a representation above the Virgin , together with a request to the passer- b y to pray for the soul o f the unfortunate subj ect o f the picture .

o f for It is , course , the regular thing all the villagers , men , women and children , to

S nu attend the church on unday , and it is doubtedly an impressive sight to witness the crowds that make their way to service . At

Cortina , indeed , the church was so full that numbers had to wait outside and go in when

w f r there as room o them . 139 T HE D OLOMl TE S

The churches are for the most part u n interesting from the architectural point o f View ; they are generally plain whitewashed ediﬁces with either the straight black spire

- o r else the familiar bulbous shaped tower . As the district known as the Dolomite region extends into Italy as well as Austria there are naturally different types of people to be found m . a in the various parts It y , perhaps , be safely said that the southern Tyrolese , on the whole , are not a particularly striking race in

appearance ; themen are , as a rule , rather under

to sized , though they seem be sturdy enough ,

to and the women , though pleasant look upon as a rule , are not remarkably beautiful . We did see some very ﬁne types in some of the

Italian valleys , notably the Auronzo Valley , ll where the women were ta , strong and muscular , and the men , too , strikingly hand some The women work in the ﬁelds with the men ;

d o so indeed , they seem to more than the men , and they appear to be able to carry enormously heavy loads with comparative c ase . 140

C OSTUME There is now but little to be seen in the way

o n al of extraordinary costume , except speci occasions ; in the hotels o ne may be waited on by damsels d ressed in gay garments o f every

o ne hue , but knows that this is not the genuine article and that o ne might just as well be at

’ Earl s Court . The dresses that one sees in the smaller villages are for the most part quite sober in colour , black being the prevailing note ; while there is practically nothing to distinguish the men from an ordinary English countryman , with the exception of the felt hat . In the Italian portion o f the district the women generally wear handkerchiefs

bound round their heads , while in other parts o n e sees curious little round felt hats with long black ribbons hanging down behind . It is interesting to note how exceedingly careful the peasants are o f their land ; at hay making time they make the utmost o f every inch of the ground . One may see them mowing the very poor grass o n the steepest hillside under the most difﬁcult conditions and carry ing away the smallest bundles of hay to be 14 1 THE D OLOMITE S

treasured up against the winter . In the more St prosperous parts , like Cortina and Ulrich (where there is a ﬂourishing wood- carving

- to industry) , the people seem to be fairly well

do , but for the most part they appear to ﬁnd

f . it di ﬁcult enough to get a living Doubtless , as the country is opened up and more visitors are attracted there , they will take advantage o f and the altered conditions beneﬁt thereby , but at present they do not seem to have r e alised to the full their opportunities . They are certainly much more unsophisticated than

o ne their Swiss neighbours , and accordingly

one has less fear that is being victimised . The most popular form o f entertainment — among the people at any rate among the

— o men and boys is a primitive sort f ninepins . This is played anywhere ; if there is no proper

- skittle alley it is played in the Open street , and we often saw a group o f men engaged in

o f f . this pastime , quite regardless the tra ﬁc

It appeared to be a simple game , partaking something of the nature of skittles and some thing o f the character of bowls . 142

T H E D OLOMITES

He has lived in the country for many years and can speak with authority . In all worldly ” f - a fairs , he says , the inn keeper of the i v llage plays an important part , for, as a rule , he is the richest as well as the most inﬂuential man in the community . Like everyone else

~ he is a peasant pure and Simple , but he gener ally can afford to keep one or two Knechte

Le male helps ; labourers would not be the right word—who live in the house and eat at

for o f as his table ; , course , such a thing a separate table for master and mistress is u n i ’ kn“own n a peasant s house . The inn - keepers have always played an

7 07 3 Wir thshau s important , and the , which is

o f o f the centre the social life the community, is t he scene of the feasts that are given at

o f weddings and christenings , and the solemn ” Todtenm ahl , or meal of the dead , given

’ al after funer s , where the deceased person s kith and kin assemble and gorge . As the inn is the only house large enough for such l S assemb ies , and is the rendezvous every unday after morning service for the adult male 144 A CCOMMOD A TI ON

all population , business is transacted and

’ the affairs o f one s own as well as those

’ of one s neighbour are discussed there , though I will say that the Tyrolese peasants are the people least addicted to back - biting

- and tittle tattle that I know . AS a natural consequence , mine host is the man who has his finger o n the pulse of the community . He knows the ins and outs of every man in the valley financially and socially , and as he has ” his own o u t to act as chucker , and play the village policeman if revellers come to blows o n his premises , this burly personage has to ” be reckoned with in more ways than one . Of the accommodation to be found in the inns mention has already been made . Some G fifty years ago ilbert and Churchill , in their

o n book the Dolomites , expressed a fear that the Old- fashioned Tyrolese inn would not long su r

. o f vive They dreaded the advent the tourist , M E and the fear was echoed by iss dwards ,

n whom we have already quoted o the point . Fortunately these fears have not been realised

n to the extent that the writers a ticipated , 10 145 THE D OLOMITE S and it is still possible for those who know Where to go to meet with the true Tyrolese hospitality and to ﬁnd the people still unspoilt . The visitor who looks for elaborate meals and delicate cookery will be undoubtedly dis

t e appointed . One cannot have all h primitive charm of an unspoilt country together with the luxuries of modern civilization ; we recall the remark o f the tourist Who said that he

not did mind roughing it , but when it came to one salt- cellar to two people he thought it was going a bit too far ! One must expect to meet with the eternal dishes of K albsﬂeisch

- how one longs for a change of diet after a — week o r so o f veal l but the food is as a rule wholesome and palatable , the rooms are clean m and the charges are oderate . In the club huts on e is always sure at any rate o f a plate o f ul excellent soup , while a go asch can gener

l For a ly be obtained almost anywhere . liquid refreshment the wine of the country is always

1S available , and in most places beer also to be had .

146

THE D OL OMITES

o r Primiero , , as it is more properly called, is Fiera di Primiero , a typical example Of the changing fortunes that have befallen some o f these villages . In early times it was closely connected with Feltre ; it was subject ﬁrst to

G b o n the oths , then to the Lom ards , and the fall of the latter it was granted by the Emperor

' to o f Co nr ad in 102 . , 7 , the Bishops Trent The

o f discovery iron mines near by , however , rendered Primiero a valuable possession and led many people to try to gain it for them it . 1 00 selves In 3 came , with Feltre , under

o f S o f the rule the caligeri Verona , who appar

1 ently held it for some ﬁfty years . In 355,

o f E C . in the reign the mperor harles IV , it was made into a separate lordship under o ne Boniface von Lupi ; in 1363 it passed (with Feltre again) into the hands o f the Carrara family o f Padua . In 1373 the two places were ceded by the

Carr ar as to Ha sb u r er s 1 8 the p g , but in 3 4 the latter gave Feltre back to the Car r ar as and separated Primiero from that town , reserving its lordship to themselves . The village of 148 H ISTO RY OF PR IMIE RO

n o w Transacqua , which is practically a suburb o f m Pri iero , was however still retained by the

o f Republic Venice , to which it belonged , for some length o f time after the rest o f the valley had passed into the hands of Austria . The ArchdukeFriedrich of Hapsburgdevoted considerable attention to the working of the

o f mines Primiero , and it is recorded that they brought in a revenue o f more than

ﬂor inS a year . In 1401 the Hapsb u r ger s granted the dis — triet to the Welsper g family o ne of whom was their chamberlain -and by them and their

18 descendants it was ruled until 27 . It was this family which owned the Castle o f La — Pietra the ruins o f which still remain an d form such a striking feature o f the Val

Primiero . Primiero suffered severely in the war which broke o u t between the EmperorMaximilian and the Venetians in 1709 ; a battle was fought at

Transacqua , many houses in the valley were destroyed , and Castel la Pietra three times underwent a Siege . 149 THE D OLOMITE S After this Primiero ceases to take a promin ent part in historical annals ; it is more than likely that the extin ction o f the mines very — considerably diminished its importance at any rate there does not appear to have been that keen competition for its possession that was s o manifest when the mines were in good working order .

Primiero has accordingly remained Tyrolese , though from its position o ne might have ex

ec ted o p that it w uld have become Italian .

Caprile , on the other hand , which is much further to the north , has remained Italian .

a Its ancient name w s Pagus Gabrielis . It always formed part of the Agordo district , which belonged to the Bishop o f Belluno ; w in time , ho ever , the episcopal power waned , and he was eventually replaced by a bewilder

o f 1 60 ing succession masters until , in 3 , the Carrara family o f Padua assumed possession o f the district . Then the usual kaleidoscopic fate b efel Caprile and Agordo ; in 1384 they passed into the power o f the house o f Haps burg ; in 1386 the Car r ar as again took pos 150

THE D OLOMITE S

G G however , ian aleazzo Visconti was carried

o ff by pestilence , and Venice , availing herself

of her opportunity , began to extend her

1 0 t o frontiers . In 4 4 she ook possession f

Agordo , with Caprile , at the same time as

Belluno and Feltre .

o f The little village Rocca , between Caprile

S o tto u d a io and g , has a much more cur us M history . This tiny place , says iss M Edwards , known in the iddle Ages as Rocca

Pietor e Roc c ab r u na di , or , if never in the

o f strict sense the word a Republic , was at all events self- governed owing only a nominal

’ d Istr ia allegiance to the Archdeacon of Capo ,

tax and enj oying a special immunity from , impost or personal service imposta O colta o fagioni personali This interesting little c om

- ﬁve munity , consisting of forty families , the men of which were nearly all armourers , was constrained in 1389 to acknowledge the suzerainty of the Visconti , who placed it under

o f the j urisdiction the Bellunese . Not even s w R o, however, ould occa resign its cherished

u all liberties , but stip lated that the articles 152 H I S TORY OF C ORTIN A o f its ancient statute should be observed f MS . o inviolate . The original this remark

o u t - able document , drawn in Sixty Six clauses

l 1 18 and registered at Be luno in the year 4 , is now in the possession o f Signora Pezze at

b - - b at Caprile . When , y and y , the Visconti tempted to levy a tax upon their steel - work

o f the men Rocca rebelled ; and later still ,

16 in 59, being then subject to the Venetians ,

o f and jealous as ever their privileges , they S despatched an ambassador to the enate , reminding that august body how , being Situated on the frontier and exposed to the attacks of enemies beyond the border, the people of Rocca had at all times testiﬁed to their patriotism with their blood , and pre served intact those privileges which were

’ dearer to them than the pupils o f their eyes . The history of Cortina and the Ampezzo l dif va ley is quite ferent again . The house of

1 00 Hapsburg in 5 received , as part of their

c o u n t o f G P u ster thal inheritanceof the y orz , the and Toblach , with the valley which runs up

1 south to the Ampezzo Pass . From 335 I 53 THE D OLOMITE S the other Side of the pass belonged to Aquileia in 1420 the all- conquering Republic of Venice

1 0 M of seized it , but in 5 9 aximilian Hapsburg won it from the Venetians , though it was not

1 1 deﬁnitely acquired until 5 7 .

We see , therefore , that the history of the villages in the Dolomite region by no means corresponds with their geographical Situation it does no t necessarily follow that because a village is south of the range o f mountains that

o n therefore it is in Italy ; the contrary , the frontier to - day pursues an apparently quite

is irresponsible course , and though Caprile

al now in It y , Primiero and Cortina are both

Austrian . The same curious capriciousness seems to have dealt with the mountains them

Lan ko fel selves ; the Rosengarten group , the g group and the other peaks o f the Gr Od ner thal were formerly included in the territory o f the

Bishops o f Trent and are wholly Tyr olese ; the Cimon della Pala and the Pala di San M artino are wholly Austrian , but the Sass

M Vezz an a Mar m olata aor , the Cima di and the M are half in Tyrol and half in Italy . onte 154

T HE D OLOMITE S M a . argr ve , under the Dukes of Bavaria Trent was then the northernmost town of the Lom

a bards , and a continual warf re was waged

n d between the Bavarians a the Lombards , with varying success ; more than once the

Lombards succeeded in plundering Botzen .

o f , M In an account the life of the innesinger,

Oswald von Wolkenstein , we learn that in the

1 1 year 4 0 Tyrol was in a disturbed state . (We are inclined to regard this , however, as any thing but abnormal in those days . ) The nobility o f the Etschthal had united together to protect their ancient privileges against the encroachments of Frederick o f the empty

’ pocket , Count of Tyrol . Hitherto they had been considered his peers , and had held their possessions immediately from the Emperor, except where some Special feudal tie required it to be otherwise . These encroachments gave rise to continual disputes , in which each endeavoured to enforce his rights as he best

o f could . Oswald took the Side the nobility and laboured zeal ously to get Tyrol o u t o f the hands of the inno vatir g government of the 15é TH E E TS C HT H A L B A R ONS A Austrian rchduke , whose deadly hatred he

ill- o f had incurred . The success this prince at the Council o f Constance appeared to the barons o f the Etsch to afford a suitable o ppor tu nity for completing their designs ; but no t being properly supported by the Emperor S ’ igismund , and unprepared for Frederick s unexpected courage and resources under the f most di ﬁcult circumstances , they were at last ,

1 26 about the year 4 , compelled to acknowledge his superiority and abandon their pretension ” to hold their ﬁe fS immediately of the Empire .

157 CHAPTER XIV — THE D OLOMITE N - STRASSE SOME TO URS IN THE D OLOMITE S

F recent years great efforts have been made to develop the region o f the

Dolomites , to render it more accessible to the tourist , and to improve the accommodation ;

as new hotels have sprung up if by magic , services o f automobiles and diligences now ply where formerly it was only possible to hire a private carriage , and above all , ﬁne new roads have been made , connecting the principal villages of the district and practically travers ing the whole country .

The principal one o f these- known as the

- — Dolomiten strasse has only been Open for general use in its whole length within the last two or three years . It is a triumph of engineer

— Po r d oi och ing Skill crossing two passes , the j

Falzar e o f m a niﬁ and the g joch , and a fords g

o i cent views the country throughout . 158

THE D OLOMI TES though wanting the majestical height and the

o f cover eternal snow o f their neighbours .

‘ First o f all the valleys of the Dolomites are by far warmer , and more open to the sun , than those of the Central Alps , wherefore the season for the centres o f the Dolomites is a lo nger

one .

It is perhaps not quite clear as to the exact m“eaning the writer attaches to the word centres , but we may pass over such a trivial point . Then the mountains of the Dolomites are consisting o f t otally isolated ” or ridges stems , continues our author, now getting well into his stride , which mount maj estically from the endless green of softly on d u lated - l o r alm grounds , ike white domes pyramids . This peculiarity is a source of inexhaustible richness and variety o f sur

f o f prising sceneries , and e fects light and

Shadow , as well as it makes it possible to wander without any trouble over the soft and

ﬂower - covered meadows and bows that separate each valley from the following .

The most - fr eq u enteci route is that which I ﬁo T HE G RE A T ROA D

starts at Toblach , runs south along the

HOhlensteiner thal S to chluderbach , thence in

to Peu telstein a westerly direction , and again south to Cortina . From here the new road begins ; it crosses the Falzar ego Pass and descends to Andraz , then pursues a directly westward course to Araba , goes over the

P or d oi Pass to Canazei , whence it turns south wards and traverses the Fassathal as far as

Vigo di Fassa , where it again takes a westerly

direction over the Karer Pass to the Karer See ,

to . and thence Botzen From Vigo , moreover , a road runs south to Predazzo and thence

- south east to Paneveggio , over the Rolle Pass to San Martino and Primiero ; while from Araba another road branches off in a northerly direction to St Leonhard and St Martin in the

er thal to St Gad , running up Lorenzen in the

o f P u ster thal . As the writer the account

- referred to above remarks , Both Side roads

fo r are o f second order , and prohibited auto mobiles but can be used by carriages and

o n to s a — bicycles . He goes y , however and

o ne i u no will d sp te the truth of this Observation , 11 16 1 THE D OLOMITES

Who on that walks foot , will think his way through the Dolomites a very pleasant one , and ﬁnd an excellent life and board in the

- numerous villages and Shelter houses . In nearly all the principal places elegant ﬁr st class hotels are already existing , and besides

these also Simple pensions and inns , which are

c o n excellently managed . In spite of the sid er ab le number o f lodgings there is ir e

o f quently a want them during the season ,

o f called forth by the great frequence strangers , S O that it is advisable to look for a lodging in ” good time . A glance at the map will Show that the new road runs right through the centre of the

o u r district , and , as author observes , with it the region o f the Dolomites seems to be ” opened in its chief point .

Let us , however, accompany this engaging

guide along the route in a little more detail ; we leave Toblach and make o u r way along the Hohlenstein Valley past Landro to ”

. S Schluderbach Near chluderbach , he

- says , a rather steep , but well kept street I y2

THE D OLOMITES

” street itself, he says , ascends the Rolle Pass , from where one enjoys an incomparable look o n the Cimon della Pala . Then the street lowers down , describing numberless turns ,

’ di o f and enters the Para se the Dolomites , di San M . artino Castrozza The Rosetta ,

no t f f ic tu r which is di ﬁcult to ascend , o fers a p esque and instructive view . In the valley the carriage- road is leading along the Cism one down

into the south , and reaches Fiera di Primiero , that lies in the middle of a -luxuriant southern vegetation , and surmounted by the still magni ” o f - ﬁc ent ridges the last of the Pala Dolomites . The traveller who enters the Dolomite

so n country from Venice does by way of Bellu o , to which point the railway runs ; from here he may traverse an excellent carriage- road past

Longarone and Perarolo to Tai di Cadore , where the road divides , one branch going west and the other east . By the latter he may reach Pieve di Cadore and thence traverse M the Auronzo Valley to the isurina See . The western road from Tai leads past Valle , Venas,

Borea and San Vito to Cortina . 164 RO A D S A N D P A SSES Another road from Belluno runs in a more

Mas westerly direction to , whence it strikes north to Agordo ; from here the street is mounting over Cencenighe and passes the ”

l . Splendid lake of Al eghe , till it reaches Caprile

The district may also be entered from Trent , by the Val Sugama ; a railway runs from Trent

along this valley as far as Tezze , and from here

on the road goes to Bassano , meeting , near

Primolano , a road to the north which ascends to Feltre and Primiero .

It will be seen , therefore , that the country is well supplied with roads , which enable the traveller to penetrate into the heart of the district with very little trouble ; it may be added that all these roads are excellent and are kept in good repair . There are , moreover, many footpaths and passes which can only be traversed by the pedestrian , but these , again , are almost without exception devoid of any difﬁculty .

It may , perhaps , be of some interest and utility to intending visitors to the district to sketch ou t a few plzm s whereby some idea 1é 5 T HE D OLOMITES of the country may be gained in a compara ti el v y Short space of time . We will assume in the ﬁrst place that the traveller from England makes his way t o Innsbruck and thence takes the train over the Brenner Pass to Toblach . From there he may proceed as follows : — F ir st d a s 1 y Toblach to Landro , about %

hours by diligence o r automobile . From here may be obtained one o f the best Views o f Monte Cristallo and Piz P Opena with

Diir r en the See .

econ — D izinn n S d d a . r e y Landro to the e Hut .

From Landro (4615 feet above sea - level) to the Rimbianco Alp (6035 feet) is a

o f 1— climb about ,2hours . Thence via the

Tob lin er 8 g Riedl (7 57 feet) , to the Club

8 2 Hut (7 97 feet), making a climb of ll a . hours . in

Thi d — eiz nn n r d ay Dr i e Hut to Tre Croci . An easy ascent to Forcella Lavar ed o (8040 feet) occupies 1 hour ; thence one may descend to the Rimbianco Alp

1 M in 5 hours , and again to the isurina See (5760 feet) in 1 ho n From here a good I ga

T HE D OLOMITES — Agordo (2 000 feet above sea level) o ne

takes a good bridle- path to Frassene (3550 feet) in 2 hours ; from there to

Gosaldo in 15 hours ; over the Cer ed a Pass

2 0 2 (45 feet) another hours , and down to

1 Primiero in 5 hours more .

Eleventh — o d ay Primiero . An excursion t the l Val di Canali will we l repay the traveller .

Twel th d a — P San M f y rimiero to artino .

Diligence for about 3 hours .

Thir teenth d a — an M y S artino to Campitello . One may go by diligence or automobile

o ll over the R e Pass to Paneveggio . There one may leave the high - road and go over — the Lusia Pass an ascent o f some 1700 feet— and down the other Side to Moena

in about 4 hours . An easy walk along the Fassathal leads to Campitello in about

2 5 to 3 hours .

F onr teenth d a — y Campitello . An interesting excursion may be made to the Contr in

or Fed a a Hut to the j Pass (about 4 hours) ,

affording ﬁne views o f the Mar m olata .

Fi teenth d a — a itcll t f y C m p o to S Ulrich . From I é z TOURS

Campitello (4730 feet) a walk o f 2 hours

leads to the Sella Hut - o u the Sella Pass (72 75 feet) ; from here o ne may either

to St descend to Plan and thence Ulrich , — o r a much more interesting route ascend the Langko felj o ch feet) a steep but easy climb— descend to the

Lan ko fel St g Hut , and thence to Christina

or St Ulrich .

S ixteenth d — t ay S Ulrich .

S eventeenth d a — t l y S Ulrich to Sch er n . From St Ulrich to Kastelruth is an easy walk o f

3 hours ; thence to Seis and Bad Ratz es

is a farther ﬁve miles ; and from there to the S chler n Hut (8402 feet) is a climb

o f 4 to 45 hours . — Eighteenth d ay Schlem to the Karer See

o ne Hotel . This is described as of the

- ﬁnest high level walks in the district . From the S chler n Hut via the Tier ser Alp to the Grasleiten Hut occupies 3 hours ; from there to the Vaj olet Hut another 25 hours ; and thence via the Kolner Hut to

See . the Karer Hotel , 3 hours more 169 T HE D OLOMITES

Nin eteen th a — d y Karer See to Botzen . Dili

gence in about 4 hours . From Botzen o n e may take the train back to Innsbruck and so return . — — For a Shorter tour say a fortnight the following plan might be recommended . We

as assume , before , that the tourist starts from

Innsbruck ; thence he may take the train to — Niederdorf the station before Toblach . — F . ir st d ay . Niederdorf to Schluderbach An easy and ﬁne route along the P r agser

Platzwiese thal and across the , 4

hours . — S econd d ay Schluderbach to Cortina . From

Schluderbach to Misurina hou r S ) - if

preferred , the diligence may be taken

2 di thence to Tre Croci ( hours ) , descen ng

in 15hours to Cortina . Th — ir d d ay Cortina . — F ou r th d ay Cortina to Caprile over the Gian

Pass . This is an easy and attractive

excursion occupying about 65 hours . h — F ift d ay Caprile to Agordo . A valley walk

1 of 2 miles . 170

TOURS

- S ixth d ay Agordo to Primiero . Same as in

ﬁrst tour . — S eventh d ay Primiero . — Eighth d ay Primiero to San Martino . A good path up the Val di Canali leads into the Val Pr avitale to the Pr avitale Hut

(7665 feet) in 4 to 45 hours . From here an easy marked route leads over the Fr ad u sta o r Pr avitale Pass (7365 feet) to the Rosetta Hut and San Martino in 5 hours

Ninth d a — M n y San arti o to Predazzo . Over

the Rolle Pass via Paneveggio . A dili

u a gence r ns d ily in about 4 hours , and an

automobile in about 25 hours . — l Tenth d ay Predazzo to Campitel o . A valley walk o f 15 miles ; may be done by dili

gence if preferred .

El v nth — e e d ay Campitello to Plan . Over the ll S e a o ch 2 2 . j (7 75 feet) , hours Ascent

o f Ro d ella 81 the ( 55 feet), 5 hour ; de scending to Plan (5290 feet) in a further

25 hours .

l h a — Twe t d . f y Plan to St Leonhard . Over the 17 1 T HE D OLOMITES

Gr o d ner o ch 0 10 Co lfo sc o j (7 feet) , via ,

about 3 to 35hours , thence to St Leonhard ,

another 65 miles .

Thi ee h — r t nt d ay St Leonhard to St Lorenzen .

Diligence runs daily in about 3 hours . At St Lorenzen we rej oin the railway and

may take the train back to Innsbruck . For those who are able to make a longer stay S in the district , Toblach , chluderbach , Cortina ,

San M Caprile , Primiero , artino , Campitello ,

St See St Ulrich , Leonhard and the Karer may

n th be recommended . Sa Martino is e best centre for climbers in the southern portion of the district .

17 2

THE D OLOMITE S

able ; indeed , compared with other districts o f the Alps they were curiously neglected by the majority o f English climbers . O f recent years , however, they have become

" - better known , though even to day they are regarded with a measure of pitying conde

o f scension by a certain school climbers , who speak o f reserving them for their old age and declining upon the Dolomites when they can no longer undertake the fatigues o f a ” genu ine Swiss climb . One o f the reasons for this neglect has been the fact that , in the Dolomites , one does not m - ﬁeld s eet with extensive snow , glaciers , and the opportunity for ice - work which the Swiss Alps offer ; in the Dolomites the climbing is

- is almost entirely rock climbing , and it only within recent years that rock- climbing has

o f attracted much attention . A school

climbers has arisen , however, whose devotees

ber look with scorn upon ice and snow, upon g schr u nds n ew and , and who pin their faith to

- en sd ar rn e m au vais ms hand holds , g , chimneys , { — and Similar terrors . Rock climbing , pure and 174 A D VA NTA G ES

simple , may be said to have become fashionable

Fiin fﬁn er s itz e to a certain extent , and the g p and the Kleine Zinne have been added to the ” list o f fashionable peaks . One o f the advantages of the Dolomite

’ district from the rock- climber s point of View is that it affords climbs o f every degree of

f i ul di f c ty , from the ascent which is described as moderately easy ; guide unnecessary , to that which is set down as very difﬁcult for experts with steady heads .

is Another advantage , that for the most part the climbs are Short in comparison with the Swiss peaks ; it is frequently possible to

o r on e ascend two even three summits in day , and in many cases these may be reached from the valleys below without the necessity o f

o ne o f sleeping in the Alpine Club huts , though

these are plentiful and , nowadays , quite luxurious in the accommodation they afford . There is yet a third advantage which will

to o f appeal the climber limited means , namely , the expense ; the tariff for a ﬁr st - class peak in the Dolomites is very c onsiderably less than I 7 S T HE D OLOMITES

it is for a Swiss mountain , so that even the most incompetent o f novices may be hauled up two o r even three Dolomite peaks for the same amount that it would cost him to be dragged up one of the better known Swiss Al ps .

’ It was in 1870 that Leslie Stephen s brilliant “ ” paper on The Peaks of Primiero appeared in

Al ine our nal 18 the p j , but it was not until 94 that any work appeared in English dealing with the Dolomites as a whole from the

’ mountaineer s point o f view . In that year

’ Mr S Davies s Dolom ite S tr on holds anger book , g ,

18 The was published , and in 99 was issued

Clim bs of Nor m an - Ner u da (most of which

dealt with this particular district) , to which was attached a melancholy interest in that the author had lost his life o n the Fiinfﬁnger spitze the summer before

’ A translation o f Signor Leone Sinigaglia s work o n Clim bing Rem iniscences in theDolom ites

had meanwhile appeared in 1896 . The climb

o f m ing literature the Dolo ites has , however,

l m u a e so far as the English g g is concerned, I 7g

T HE D OLOMITES

Gu id e to the E aster n Al s 18 p , published in 79 , was the ﬁr St work which d ealt with the climb a ing aspect at all adequ tely . Competent authorities have maintained that the Dolomites afford the ﬁnest climbing in

E s is n urope . Thi an Opi ion that depends upon the point o f view ; perhaps if we say the ﬁnest r rock climbing , and take into conside ation the number o f peaks compressed into s o small

v an area , few of those who ha e had experience in this and other districts will be inclined seriously to challenge the statement . It would be easy to obj ect that the highest o f the

Mar m olata Dolomites , the , is only a beggarly

o f A feet , Whilst the main chains the lps have over two hundred summits which range

oul from feet to feet . It w d be easy to say that the Dolomite glaciers are insigniﬁcant compared with those o f Switzer

' land and North Tyrol , and it would not be difﬁcult to Single out certain climbs in more frequented Alpine centres which equal in

o f interest any the Dolomite climbs . But ,

for th district district , Dolomites can hold I 7g H I S TORY

o wn their , and Should particularly appeal to lovers o f the Cham ou nix aiguilles and the rock climbs o f the British Isles . Their walls and m f chi neys , pinnacles and ridges , o fer endless joys to the mountaineer and if the scree , schutt an d ger Oll are occasionally trying to the temper they are at least no worse than the interminable r m or aines of other mountain ranges . Let us admit that the Alps are wide and that

o f f tastes have a habit di fering ; nevertheless , the admirers o f o ne district need no t be the

o f who detractors another , and the climber tries the Dolomites for the ﬁrst time will at least add to his experience and interest even

old if he continues to prefer his haunts . The exploration o f the High Alps may be said to have begun with the ascent o f Mont Blanc by J acques Balmat and Dr P ac c ar d in

1 86 7 , and to have continued intermittently to the present day . The years 1840 to 1865

o f were years great activity , and in this period

o f the real conquest the High Alps took place .

The Dolomites , however , did not then attract t 79 T HE D OLOMITES

i much attention , doubtless ow ng to their

‘ s the P elm o was inferior height , but ascended

18 An t elao 186 Mar m olat a in 57, and Tofana in 3 , an or a iss 186 18 d S al 6 . p in 4, and Crist lo in 5 The next twenty- ﬁve years saw the completion o f the conquest o f the Dolomites with the ex c e tion o f i diﬁi cult l p a few exceed ngly need es ,

Stab eler thur m an d Dela o thu r m like the the g ,

f r res erved o more recent years . Of those engaged in the conquest the most

ul G celebrated was Pa rohmann , who , between

186 186 the years 3 and 9 , made the ﬁrst ascents

An t elao S or a iss Mar m olata of Tofana , , p , ,

l G Dr eischu ster s itz e Crista lo , rosse Zinne , p and

i . Lan ko fels tz e . . s g p C C Tucker, with variou

18 2 18 companions , between the years 7 and 79 ,

r s o f Kess elko el made the ﬁ st a cents the g ,

di Vezz an a Ro sen ar t ens itz e Cima , g p , Sass

ri Maor and Cima di Canali . Gottf ed Merz

c 18 188 ba her, between 79 and 7, made the ﬁrst

c of S as ents Vernel , asso Vernale and the Haupt

Vaj olet Thurm . Other pioneers were John

E . . hi Ball , Leslie Stephen , R W twell , Leone

Ph h r e . ﬂ o G . . Sini a lia . . ’ R g g , J S ﬁ A S aynor,

G UI DES

S - Robert Hans chmitt , Norman Neruda , Baron

E o OS G . tv . , Winkler , etc , whose ﬁrst ascents will be found in the notes on the various groups which follow . M Of guides , the most renowned was ichel

Inner koﬂer S of exten , who made alone the

o f Gr ohm anns itze ﬁrst ascent the p , the Inner koﬂer thu r m Elfer ko fel and the , and, in com

Inner kofler pany with Johann , the first ascent o f ZwOlfer ko fel the Kleine Zinne and the , besides leading in other first ascents and new

1888 o f routes . He was killed in , at the age

S chlu d er forty , whilst descending Cristallo to

o f - bach , through the breaking a snow bridge o n the glacier . The character o f the climbing has already been referred to . At ﬁrst Sight the peaks look i absolutely unclimbable ; bare walls , th n

- pinnacles , smooth looking towers and vertical precipices seem to forbid all access . The

experienced cragsman knows , however, that he has only to come closer and examine in detail to ﬁnd an apparently unbroken front resolve itself into the usual chimneys and 18 1 THE D OLOMITES

ledges , though perhaps the former are steeper and the latter less commodious than he would f like for his ﬁrst day , whilst yet sti f with his long railway journey from England . He knows to o that , provided the rock is good , the hand

‘ no t too for o f holds far apart his length reach , and the climber well provided with schwin ” d l r t r e f eihei fo . , he need care little steepness He will soon discover that he can sort ou t the ” ” ascents into rough scrambles , climbs , difﬁcult climbs and almost impossible ” u climbs , j st as in any other district , and can h suit his efforts to his prowess or iS ambition . In point o f fact the peaks are extremely disintegrated , and to this fact is due their f aspect o ruined masonry . Usually the rock is hard enough , but weathering induces a

o f process decay , and the climber must beware

- o f loose stones and treacherous hand holds . A feature o f the Dolomites is the series of long horizontal terraces which sometimes run more o r less continuously across the whole face of a l mountain . The more difﬁcult face c imbs

- are exposed and nerve Shattering , but usually 182

THE D OLOMITES o f the peaks in the immediate neighbourhood

or as he has time and inclination for , he can wander from group to group , crossing passes and traversing peaks so as to include in the same season a visit to several districts . Each method has its ardent advocates and each has its advantages . The centrist enj oys his comfortable hotel and his freedom from carry u ing the reviled r cksack , besides getting all the sport that he wants and a thorough ac

his quaintance with selected district . The

o f wanderer has the advantage variety , and probably gets a better general knowledge o f

u or the mountain world . S itable places f the St e centrist are Cortina , Ulrich , the Kar r See

San M and artino , and he need not be in any

o f f fear insu ﬁciency of climbs , for several groups number over ﬁfty peaks , not to speak o f alternative routes . The wanderer will enter the Dolomites at whatever point suits

o f him best , and will make use the Alpine ways and the excellent huts provided by the various sections o f the Deutscher und Oesterreich ” i he sc r Alpen Verein . 184 G UI DELESS CL IMBI N G

To a climbing and touring party o f moderate ambition wishing to obtain a good preliminary notion o f the whole region the following tour and climbs may be recommended

S Dr eischu ster s itze Innichen , exten ( p ) , Drei G Zinnen Hut ( rosse Zinne) , Tre Croci (Cristallo) ,

S or a iss P elm o Nu volau Cortina ( p or ) , over the

Gr Od ner och (Cinque Torri) , j , Val Culea ,

Pisciad u see B o es itze Hut , Bamberger Hut ( p ) ,

P o r d oischar te P or d oi o ch B in d elstei Fed a a , j , g , j

Mar m olata Mar m olat aschar te Contr in Haus ( ) , ,

Hans P r avitale , Pellegrino Pass , Forno , Hut

r ad u s ta o r (Cima di F Cima di Ball) , Primiero ,

M di Vez zan a San artino (Cima ) , Rolle Pass ,

KOln er Tscha er Lusia Pass , Karer Pass , Hut , g

Va olet Ro sen ar ten s itze j och Pass , j Hut ( g p or

Kesselko el G St l g ) , rasleiten Hut , U rich

Lan ko fel o r Inner koﬂer thu r m ( g ) , St Christina

Ri ais or Fer m ed athu r m Gad er thal (Sass g ) , ,

r St Lorenzen o Bruneck .

o f On the subject guideless climbing ,

o r whether in the Dolomites elsewhere , nothing

all new can be said , and that is Old resolves itself into the dispar y o r equality of the 1its T HE D OLOMITES difﬁculty of the climb on the o ne hand and the

Skill of the climber on the other . Thus , to one who condemned a br illiant rock climb o f Mummery ’ s as foolhardy on account of its

f was di ﬁculties , the reply made that to M ummery they were not difﬁculties . But it may be said in general that whilst there are plenty of Dolomite climbs suitable for guide

o f less parties experience , the biggest ex

ed itions n ot in p are emphatically . To the tr insic stiffness of these expeditions must be added the difficulty o f recognizing the line o f ascent even after a correct beginning has been

i o f made , and the consequent likel hood follow ing a wrong line and landing oneself in a position where advance and retreat are equally

i hazardous . The great maj or ty of accidents in the Dolomites have happened to guideless

parties . The best general map o f the district is the ” Ueb er sichtskar te der Dolomiten , published

o f in two Sheets by G . Freytag and Berndt

Vienna , price Kr . each , but obtainable by

V se D.O . A c members of the q through their I EG

T HE D OLOMI TES classiﬁcation and to deal with the various sections in order .

CORTINA GRO UP

Even at the present day , when touring and climbing are so much more popular than in previous times , Dolomites means Cortina et pr aeter ea nihil to most English climbers , and even the word Tyrol brings the same impression to their minds . Why this

f sa Should be so it is dif icult to y , but it may be

“ because Cortina lies towards the centre o f the

o n Dolomite region , the great international

- b e high road from Innsbruck to Venice , and cause in its neighbourhood are the highest sum mits of the Dolomites . But the highest peaks and most imposing masses do not necessarily f a ford the greatest climbing interest , and the h Cortina peaks , which once eld the ﬁeld , have now given way in renown to such compara tively insigniﬁcant pinnacles as the Kleine

Va olet Thiir m Zinne and the j e . The group is distinguished from other Dolomite groups in th c it consists o f several I gé CORTI N A G R OU P

huge mountain massifs , separated from each

s o other by broad saddles and valleys , that each block displays itself as an independent and characteristic cluster o f peaks . It is thus altogether different from the Rosengarten

is cOntinu ou s range , which a fairly chain , and t from the Sella and o her groups , which consist for the most part o f Single massifs with de

s pendent peaks pringing from a common stock . e Big and littl , the summits number over ﬁfty ,

the and with exception of the Croda da Lago ,

o f f which is more than ordinary di ﬁculty , most o f them are practicable by the ordinary routes

- o f for rock climbers good average skill . They are scattered o n both Sides of the Ampezzo

Thai and the road to Pieve di Cadore , the best centre being Cortina itself , easily reached from the railway at Toblach in the P u ster thal by omnibus in 4 hours , though for some ascents S chluderbach , San Vito and Auronzo are more convenient . The Club huts o f the district are the — — S ac hsen d ank Hut inn in summer o n the

o f Nu volau Co r summit the , 45 hours from s9 THE D OLOMITES tina ; the Monte Pian Hut (refreshments)

3 hours from Schluderbach ; Tofana Hut

v o ntana (pro isioned) , on theForcella di F Negra , 45 hours from Cortina ; Pfalzgau Hut (for

Sor a iss — Sor a iss p inn in summer) , near the p

or 2 Lake , 4 hours from Cortina , hours from

Tre Croci ; Rifugio di San Marco (also for

S or a iss - 2 p inn in summer) , 5 hours from San — Vito ; Rifugio di Venezia (for P elm o inn in summer) , 35 hours from San Vito ; Rifugio Tiziano (for Mar m ar ole ) 3 hours fromStabiziane

’ in the Val d AnSiei; Rifugio Barbaria (for — S Croda da Lago inn in ummer) , near the little Lago da Lago , 3 hours from Cortina . There are convenient inns at Pocol o n the

Falzar e o g Road , Tre Croci and Stabiziane in

’ o the Val d AnSiei. A map f the Ampezzo

S and Sexten Dolomites , in two heets , by the

M a - G li K . K . ilit r eograph Institut , is pub shed G by R . Lechner , raben , Vienna , and the relative sections o f the Oester r eichische 6 1 . 2 0 , Spezialkarte are Zone 9 , Kol and Zone

6 . Kol . , also obtainable from the same ﬁrm The principal ascents are the following : 190

T HE D OLOMI TES

summit in a comfortable 2 hours . The view from the to p is one o f the most extensive as well as one of the most magniﬁcent in the

o n o Dolomites , and a go d day the summit is crowded with parties who have made the ascent . The ﬁrst ascent was made in 1865 by Paul

G Sior aes rohmann with Angelo and Santo p ,

' but the route followed was not exactly the one

’ Gr oh ann s j ust described from Tre Croci . m

S o n route was from chluderbach the other Side , leading up the Val Fonda (now along a Club path) and across the Cristallo glacier to the

P aS S ' 26o so Cristallo (9 feet) , and to;the southern face , where it joins the Tre Croci route . This

o n e ascent is longer than the ordinary , and fﬁ more di cult , but for a competent party it can be recommended , whilst the traverse makes a still more interesting day .

e ex c e Other routes have been mad , all of p

18 inni tional fﬁ . M er o d e di culty In 77 Dr g ,

M I nner koﬂer with ichel , made the ﬁrst ascent t by the Cris allo glacier , the north face and the

- - e north north west ar te , a route which does 19 2 PI Z P OP E NA

188 not touch the Cristallo Pass . In 4 the east face was climbed from the pass by L .

18 Friedmann with Michel Inn er ko ﬂer . In 93

Sini a lia Dim ai Leone g g , with Pietro and

P o m an in Zaccaria p , climbed the peak by the

o r - - west , , more accurately , the west south west e face and ar te , thus making the possible ascents complete by the north , south , east and west Sides . — P 1z P OPENA . P o en a feet) p , seen from Tre Croci , is a Sloping rock tower , with a magniﬁcentwall o f imposing precipices towards the Cristallo Pass . The ascent is somewhat

f o f more di ﬁcult than that its neighbour , and the rocks are steeper . It was ﬁrst climbed

18 i r 0 E . S o aes in 7 by R . Whitwell with Santo p

L u n a e er . and Christian The ordinary route ,

which takes about Six hours , leads from Schluderbach through the Val P open a bassa and the Val P Opena alta towards the Tor ri

P o en a o n e t della p , and leaving these the l f

n continues ﬁrst up a broad rock gully , and the

o f P o ena s o f up the east face p , by a serie

u r a es chimneys , snow g llies and rock te r c , I 3 I 9 3

THE D OLOMITES

S 0 gradually working south , and to the summit . The ascent from the Cristallo Pass is much f more di ﬁcult , and is dangerous from falling stones and bad rocks ; it was ﬁrst made in

188 Inner kofler . M 4 by L Friedmann , with ichel , o n the Same day that the same party made the first direct ascent of Cristallo from the pass fi by the east face . Another dif cult route is by e the south ar te from Tre Croci .

FANA — o f TO . Tofana is really a little group three peaks known as Tofana ~di Ratzes or M Prima feet) , Tofana di ezzo or

and or Seconda feet) , Tofana di Fuori

Terza feet) . Since the erection of the Tofana Hut by the Ampezzo Section of the the Tofana di Mezzo is the one usually ascended , the climb being tolerably easy and the scenery very attractive ; and as the Tofana di Mezzo and the Tofana di Fu or i

’ are separated only by an hour s climbing the two arefrequentlytaken in the sameexpedition . The ﬁrst ascent o f Tofana di Mezzo was made G in 1863 by Paul rohmann , and in the two 194

T H E D OLOMITE S

- in a northerly direction , ﬁrst by a stone strewn slope and then by easy rock stairs and a wide scree gully to a small fork , the Forcella del

o f Vallon Negro , after which the whole length the western side o f the Tofana di Mezzo is traversed by a broad and nearly horizontal rock band . This band leads to the small snow- covered glacier which comes down from di M both peaks , the Tofana ezzo and the

Tofana di Fuori , and mounting the glacier in an easterly direction a small saddle between

s the two peak is reached , whence , turning v south , an easy passage o er the northern ridge leads to the summit o f the Tofana di M ezzo , whilst turning north the ridge leads

o f to the summit the Tofana di Fnori . Of the higher Dolomite summits the Tofana di Mezzo fﬁ by this route is certainly the least di cult ,

o f which fact , together with the expectation a

o f ﬁne view from the top , and the excitement a night in a Club hut , makes it a favourite ex pedition even with those who make no pre

wh o tensions to be climbers , but are willing

’ ” r to pay a guide s fee fo the outing . I ;!6 T OF A N A A more difﬁcult route is that by the rocks o f the steep eastern face , direct from Cortina , a route which leads up a steep and in parts snow covered gully between the Tofana di Mezzo and the Tofana di Fuori , to the small saddle f mentioned above . Still more di ﬁcult is the

- route by the south west face , which starts from theForcelladel Vallon Negroalreadyreferredto . The Tofana di Fuori can also be climbed by its west ridge from the Tr aven anz es Alp in the

Tr avenanzes - - Val , by its north north east crest from Ospitale , and by still other routes on its various Sides .

Ratz es The third peak , Tofana di , lies south o f - the hut , and is climbed by the north east face in about 25 hours . The way lies over G steepish rock and scree Slopes , and by roh mann the climb was declared to be the easiest o f the three , whilst some later writers describe it as being both fatiguing and uninteresting .

In 1901 the south - east face was climbed by

o f two Hungarian ladies , daughters Baron

EOtvOS Dim ai Roland , with Antonio and two other guides o f Cortina . 19 7 T HE D OLOMITES

Those who do no t aspire to climb any of the

three summits may , if they think it worth while , make a tour completely round the Tofana C massif in some ten hours from ortina , via the

Tr avenanzes Col Ampezzo road , the Val , the dei Ros and the Falzar ego road back to Cortina but if they are prudent folk they will provision themselves before starting .

D D - CRO A A LAGo . The Croda da Lago has two o f summits , which the southern (Cima di

8 10 18 8 Formin , 9 feet , ﬁrst climbed in 7 ) is Slightly higher than the northern (Cima

’ d Am b r iciola 888 o f , 7 feet) , but being less climbing interest is seldom ascended . The ﬁrst ascent o f the northern peak was made in 1884 by Baron EotvOs with Michel Inner ko ﬂer the up east face , a route which remains

o ne the usual to the present day . It is the f most di ﬁcult of the Cortina group , and for many years before 1884 unsuccessful attempts to scale it had been repeatedly made . Starting from the Rifugio Barbaria , the long belt o f rock which runs along nearly the whole of this east Side o f the precipice is 198

T HE D OLOMITES but its difﬁculties are such that it is an ex ped ition to be undertaken , only by the ﬁnest

cragsmen . Two guides is the regulation number .

18 Sini a lia Dim ai In 93 Leone g g , with Pietro , d isc o ver ed a r id e which newroute bythe north g , he described as Shorter and m ore direct than

one . the customary The climbing , he says , f is not more di ficult , the worst passages being

Short rock Slabs of twenty o r twenty-ﬁve feet t in height , and as the climb proceeds for mos o f the way on the ridge the risk from stone fal ls is much less .

18 t In 95 the same intrepid mountaineer , wi h

P om anin A Zan iac om i Zaccaria p and ngelo g , made another route , namely by the west face , which he regards as the most splendid and at the same time the most difﬁcult climb in the

Cortina Dolomites .

AP I — r i S OR SS feet) . So ap ss is not only

ﬁne - a looking mountain , but next to the Croda da Lago it affords the best climbing in the Cortina group . It was ﬁrst ascended in

186 G 4 by Paul rohmann , with Francesco 2 00 S ORA P I S S

Lac ed elli Ghedina and Angelo , from the Val

S or a iss o n p the north , via the lofty Pian della

a Foppa plateau , the Forcelletta del Pian dell M Foppa , and round the Foppa di attia , but this route is not much followed at the present day . The popular route before the building o f

Pfalz au the g Hut was that from Chiapuzza ,

- near San Vito , up the south eastern face , a route which is now facilitated by the Rifugio S an Marco (6036 feet) o f the Italian Alpine

o n OS 2 Club , Situated the Colle di chi de , 5 hours from San Vito . This route is the easiest , but is toilsome by reason o f its long scree

Slopes , and is therefore more recommended for the descent . From the Rifugio it ascends by

or c ella G r kar the F rande and the S o apiSS .

Miiller The present usual route is the Weg ,

- up the north eastern face , and starts from the

Pfalz au 6 0 g Hut ( 35 feet) , reached in two hours from Tre Croci by a marked path , and Situated

l or i near the sma l S ap ss Lake . From the hut the route starts in a southerly direction , and traversing a moraine leads in less than an hour

S or a iss G - to the p lacier, the right hand branch 2 0 1

T HE D OLOMITES

is o f of which crossed , and the foot the rocks reached , not far from its highest point . The climbing begins up solid rocks , which are sur

in mounted nearly a straight line , and con tinu es by the usual chim neys to the usual

e m au vais as terrac s , and to the (also usual) p , in

o f 1 this case a bit wall about 4 feet high , vertical and smooth , now adorned with a ﬁxed rope .

Two more chimneys lead to the Vorgipfel , m from which a descent is ade to the saddle , a n d the highest peak reached over easy rocks .

Time from the hut , about ﬁve hours .

—An l ANTELAO feet) . te ao is the highest summit of the Cortina group , and the second highest in the Dolomites . The ﬁrst

186 G ascent was made in 3 by Paul rohmann , with Alessandro and Francesco Lac ed elli and f G M. o Ossi , the latter whom declared to roh mann that he had already climbed the peak

o f whilst hunting chamois , but his ignorance the last part o f the climb seemed to Grohmann to Show that he had never been on the actual e summit . Their route was by the north ar te , and this is the on e still followed . The Rifugio 202 A NTELA O A N D MONTE P E LMO

M 60 6 fo r on e San arco ( 3 feet) , which serves of

o f Sor a iss the ascents p , serves also for the

o f Antelao ascent , the route being via the Forcella Piccola and up to the broad ridge which comes down towards the Forcella from

o f the peak . Following the ridge to the foot

—ﬁeld the ﬁnal ascent , and avoiding the snow

o n . the left , a chimney leads up to the summit

The climb is somewhat toilsome , but not

f . di ﬁcult . Time from the hut , about ﬁve hours

o f Two other ways are known , both much f greater di ﬁculty . One is from Tai di Cadore , past the Casera Antelao and the An telao

G a e l cier and up the east ar te , discovered in 1886 by Captain David Min ini with Giuseppe

r n an P o d o . The other is from S Vito by the

e 18 2 E west ar te , ﬁrst climbed in 9 by mil

r Artmann with Sepp In ner koﬂe . Both are n much longer than the ordi ary route , and are seldom attempted . MONTE P ELMO feet) is a fairly

o n o f popular peak , frequented account its accessibility and the beauty and extent o f It the panorama from its summit . was the 20 3 THE D OLOMITES

ﬁrst mountain in the Dolomite region to be ascended , that is the ﬁrst among those which

for to Schlern require any real climbing, as the , and others which involve only scrambling , these were no doubt ascended occasionally by chamois- hunters and herdsmen from time /

o f immemorial . The honour overcoming this

o f ﬁrst the Dolomite peaks fell to John Ball , S at one time Under ecretary for the Colonies , but better known as o ne o f the earliest moun t aineer s and the ﬁrst President o f the Alpine

’ Club . Ball s route , which was up the east

o ne l face , and is the sti l usually followed , is now facilitated by the Rifugio di Venezia

662 on Ru t or to ( 4 feet) , the Passo di , 35 hours

’ n from Sa Vito . Half an hour s walking from the hut brings the climber to the foot o f the rocks , where a Short ascent leads to a band which traverses the east ﬂank of the imposing

- o f precipice at about one third its height , and which is followed to the left for about three

o quarters f an hour . The band is about a yard wide , and in parts is somewhat sensational , both o n account of the walls which tower 2 04

C I VETTA above and o f the precipices at the edge o f which it wends its way to a platform that leads

o f to the upper snows . A narrow cornice rock ,

m au vais ms o f the { the route , presents some difﬁ u culty , but the f rther climbing is over easy

o f terraces detritus in a wide upland valley , till the snow of the little Pelm o glacier is reached , after crossing which , in the direction of

o f P elm o the middle the three peaks , the ﬁnal ridge is ascended and followed to the cairn .

ﬁve Time from the hut , about hours . Sini

o f s gaglia , a climber repute , regards thi ascent ” o f P elm o the as a mere constitutional , while the equally reputable authors of the Hochtou r ist describe it as a difﬁcult climb

- only to be attempted by sure footed cragsmen . Between such eminent doctors who shall decide ?

VETTA — CI feet) . A ﬁne rock pyr amid o f only moderate difﬁculty , but sometimes

o n o f l dangerous account fal ing stones . The

was 186 ﬁrst ascent in 7 by F . F . Tuckett , with

Melchior and Jakob Anderegg o f Meiringen

S Pio vanel and imeone . From Mareson in the 2 0 5 THE D OLOMITES upper part o f the Val di Zoldo the route lies through Pecol in about three hours to the east walls o f Civetta ; then up through avalanche

o f snow and to the left a snow gully , which is crossed above by a ledge where a rope is ﬁxed . F rom here , by rocks and steep snow direct to

at the peak , or altern ively to the high col look G ing towards the Val della rava , and along the

e ix e s . ar te . Tim from Pecol about hours The steep and exceptionally difﬁcult west

Phillim or e Side was climbed in 1895 by J . S .

G . . l and A S . Raynor with Antonio Dima and

ior ae Santo S p s .

MARMAROLE M Mar am ole , or onti delle , a chain o f peaks of which the highest is the Pala

1 it di Med u c e (97 5 feet) at s west end . The ascent is not difﬁcult but is toilsome , requiring some eight hours from Stabiziane in the Val

’ 18 0 d Ansiei. The ﬁrst ascent was made in 9

a Mr s Helver sen by L . Darmst dter and with three guides , and the route lies via the Casa San Marco (Customs house) up the Val Med u c e

Ho hk r di dentro to the desolate c a plateau . Thence up the broad SI OW gully between the 2Oé

T HE D OLOMITES the best part o f it is done in the interior in

- semi twilight . The climbing is safe and inter

an d f n esting, a fords specimens in mi iature

o f — of all sorts rock work chimneys , buttresses , e ar tes , ledges , terraces , cavities , cracks ,

. li galleries and faces Decidedly a good c mb ,

n — - and ot long say three quarters of an hour .

1880 . It was discovered in by T E . Wall with

G Ghed ina iuseppe , and by now there are

r seve al variations . — a OTHE R CLIMB S . The foregoing is brief survey o f the chief mountains in the Cortina G roup , but it by no means exhausts the climbs of the district . Most o f the more v ob ious peaks have satellites around them , and sandwiched between the main masses , or on their outskirts , there are less important

M i 8 0 peaks , like the Becco di ezzod ( 43 feet) , the Croda Rossa feet) and the Punta

Nord del Nu volau (8685 feet) .

A E S — P SS The high passes are few , the

r principal one being the C istallo Pass , but the ” wanderer may col the peaks or take the

o f . s easy passes , which there are many Thu 2 08 P A S SES from Cortina to Caprile there are the Falzar ego

Col G or c ella Pass , the ian , the F da Lago and l the route over the summit o f the Nu vo au . From Tre Croci to Ospitale through the Val Grande ; from San Vito to Pieve di Cadore F over the orcella Piccola , and through the Val

Olten .

209 CHAPTER XVI

CLIMB ING IN THE D OLOMITE S (II ) E TC N G OUP . SE XTE R ,

HE Sexten Dolomites lie immediately

P u t r thal south of the s e at Innichen , and are enclosed on the east by the Sexten

o n thal (from which they derive their name) ,

’ on the south by the Val d Ansiei , and the west

HOhlens einth l by the t a . From the north the group can be approached by way o f the Pu ster S thal to Innichen, and thence to exten , and from the south and west by Cortina to Landro . Instead of an assemblage o f mountain masses , separated from each other by broad saddles and valleys , such as we found in the

Cortina group , we have here a cluster of close lying peaks welded together into a compact heap . The group may indeed be regarded

o f as consisting a high central plateau , from

which rise the Drei Zinnen , and which throws 2 10

THE D OLOMITES from Auronzo in a long walk o f seven or eight hours . The two huts are connected by a good v path with very ﬁne iews , which takes about three hours to traverse . A There is also an inn , the lpensee Hotel

on to Drei Zinnen the Boden Alp , close the Club

Hut , both the inn and the hut being frequently full in summer . Sexten is the most convenient

- for o f stopping place the centrist , but most the

one or o f climbs are done from other the huts . The names o f the principal peaks have fr e quently some reference to their physical features . Thus Zinne means Simply pinnacle ;

ZwOlfer S 0- the Elfer , and Einser are called

S su n because , as seen from exten , the is over the ﬁrst at eleven , the second at twelve , and the

’ third at one o clock the Cime Cadini receive ” c adini G their name from the ( erman , Kare) , gullies ﬁlled with scree and snow which are so much in evidence there . A map o f the Ampezzo and Sexten Dolo K K a . M mites , in two Sheets , by the . ilit r . i G . s . eograph Institut , published by R Lechner,

G o f raben, Vienna, and the relative sections Z I Z THE G ROSSE Z INNE

r hi he 1 the Oeste r eic sc Spezialkarte are Zone 9 , 6 K l . o . and 7

CLIMB S IN THE SE XTE N GRO UP

E NNE N The DR I ZI , three gigantic rock

o n e obelisks , almost in a straight line with

o f l o ne G another , which the midd e is the rosse

Zinne , the western is the Westliche Zinne , and the eastern the Kleine Zinne . G GRO SSE ZINNE (9850 feet) . The rosse Zinne is a massive rock whose north Side is a smooth face which looks as if it had been clean cut with a giant knife ; the west is a narrow ridge falling perpendicularly for some hundreds o f s o feet , whilst the east side slopes at terriﬁc an angle as effectively deterred all the early climbers from thinking o f it as a possible line of ascent . There remains the south Side ,

G S alcher up which Paul rohmann , with Peter

Inner koﬂer 186 and Franz , forced a way in 9, and s o made the ﬁrst ascent o f the Grosse

- Zinne . At the right hand end of this face an outlying buttress is j oined to the main mass

c o l by a small col , and from this runs a gully 2 13 THE DOLOMITES down the east face to the screes between the G rosse and the Kleine Zinne . The climb

o f begins at the foot this gully , the place being easily recognized by the empty tins and bottles which denote its u se as a breakfast T place . o reach it from the Drei Zinnen Hut (7897 feet) the route is over the P ater nsattel (called also P asspor te and Forcella Lavar ed o )

o f 1 . and round the Kleine Zinne , a walk 5hours

The gully is climbed for a little way , and then the rocks o n the left up to the little col above mentioned , where the south face is joined . Here there is a choice of routes ; the old way was to descend to the broad untere Band

1 0 and to follow it to the west for some 5 feet , then to turn right at a very acute angle over fairly easy rocks to a gully recognized by the red rocks above it , in which gully there is frequently a welcome pool o f clear water ; the new way is to avoid this detour by climbing diagonally to the left . From here the ascent is more o r less straight up by chimneys and ” open face to the obere Band , which is followed to the left , and then over rocks 2 14

THE D OLOMITES

Pater nsattel ascent is from the hut , by the , and round the south Sides o f the Kleine and the Grosse to the gully running up to the c ol between the Grosse and the Westliche then up the gully and the rocks to the band that

E . runs round its S . and W Sides at about two - of thirds its height , and ﬁnally up the west

b u t . face . (Time from the about 4 hours)

In 1899 the east face was climbed by C . C . B . M Mi . . . S oss and Dr T K Rose , with epp and chel

Inn r k r e oﬂe .

LE E E i K IN ZINN (9452 feet) . The strik ng appearance of this formidable and magniﬁcent

h o f pinnacle , together wit the fearful renown — the b er iihm te Tr aver sier stelle the Little

n —o f its Zin e Traverse , Zsigmondy kamin , and of its steep and apparently impregnable walls o f k rock , have combined to ma e the name of the Kleine Zinne better known than that o f any other peak in the Dolomites .

I o f t consists a principal pinnacle , the

Hauptgipfel , with a lower peak , the Punta di

Frida , and a buttress of the latter, all three

t he a rising from same b e , and whatever Side 2 1s THE KLEINE Z I NNE o ne looks at o ne can only wonder that a way was ever found up such imposing precipices . Even the bold Michel at ﬁrst counted it im ” one possible to climb except had wings , own u and after his successful as“cent he sed to his G S say in Tyrolese erman , chlechter als die kleinste Zinne kann a Berg scho nimmer — sein die is a Teifel Nothing can be worse ” o f than the Kleine Zinne it is a devil a peak .

was 1881 The ﬁrst ascent made in , up the

M his west face , by ichel and brother Johann

I n ner koﬂer , who a few weeks later led the ﬁrst

Diam antidi amateur climber , Demeter , not only up the Kleine Zinne but up all three

Zinnen on the same day . The route then followed remains the usual route , and starts from the gully between the Grosse and the

Kleine Zinne , reached from the hut by crossing the P ater nsattel and Skirting the southern

o f cliffs the Kleine . Climbing the wild gorge

o f between the precipices the two peaks , the point o f attack is a little beyond and Opposite the rocky couloir which goes up to the Grosse

Zinne in a westerly direction , where the ascent 2 17 THE D OLOMITES o f the latter peak is commenced . It is a little recess easily visible from below . From the take - off first come solid rocks and Short dif chimneys , followed quickly by the ficult traverse , which lasts about fifteen minutes .

al The ledge is narrow , the w l above straight up , the drop below nearly perpendicular and the - depth profound , the hand holds few and the rope o f small if any assistance . After the

- traverse some miscellaneous rock work , always

fﬁ c the di cult , and then more himneys till

shoulder is reached , a depression between

Siid i fel the Hauptgipfel and the g p , whence the ﬁnal peak rises . There is here a choice

Inner koﬂer of two chimneys , the kamin and

o f difﬁ the Zsigmondy kamin , both extreme culty ; the latter is the one now preferred notwithstanding the overhanging rock in the middle . The chimney vanquished , a few minutes ’ easy climbing leads to the Slender ridge which forms the Summit . Time from the

o f 2 . foot the rocks , about 5 hours The rock

is good throughout , but the steepness and the difﬁculties render the climb o ne ﬁt only for 2 18

THE D OLOMITE S

In 1906 the east face was climbed by Adolf Witzenm ann with Giovanni Sio r paes and Sepp

I nner koﬂer , the route leading under the N or dwand sattel and up steep chimneys to the Shoulder . J ust below the Shoulder the help of a r Ope thrown by another party who had reached the shoulder by the ordinary

Witz enm an n route was accepted , as relates in his interesting account o f the Climb . He describes it as the most difﬁcult climb he knows

ac c o m in the Dolomites . It has Since been plished by a variation at the place where the

as help of the rope w given .

DRE IS CHUSTERSPITZE feet) , the

o f S highest peak the exten group , is Situated between the Fischlein thal and the Inner feld

a as th l , and seen from the former is a mag nific en t mass with a very imposing grandeur o f its own . It was first ascended in 1869 by Paul Groh mann with Peter S alcher and Franz Inner kofler , and by their route , which is the one

is still generally followed, not difﬁcult except for the last part of the ascent . Starting from 2 2 0 THE E LF E RKOF E L

S ischleinthal exten the way lies up the F , and then to the right by a path leading up the Weisslahn Graben and over the extensive and fatiguing screes o f the Weisslahn ; up a gully o f débris and across a second belt of scree to a large and wide snow gully , which is ascended for some distance , followed by an easy climb up the rocks to the left in the

o f direction the summit . At the foot o f the

o f last wall rock , just under the peak , is a

f o f di ﬁcult chimney , followed by a steep face rock leading to the ridge and summit . Time from Sexten about seven hours . Much more difﬁcult is the ascent from the

In ner feld thal on the other Side , ﬁrst made in

1888 Zil r by Robert Hans Schmitt and S . ge with Pietro Dim ai.

ELFE K f R OFE L feet) . A di ﬁcult peak

18 M Inner koﬂer ﬁrst climbed in 79 by ichel . He was accompanied at the start by his brother Eo o Johann and Baron Roland tv s , but the former having been struck by a falling stone M they did not persist in the attempt , and ichel m alone reached the sum it . 2 2 1 T HE D OLOMITES

The usual route taken now is not that o f the early climbers . It leads from the Zsigmondy Hut (7320 feet) round the south and east Sides o f Aeu sser e the Hohe Leist to the Loch , and

- up the south west face . The eastern face was climbed in 1892 by Oskar Schuster with Veit

Inn r fl r H r o u sb e er . e k e and J . a g ZWOLFE RKOFEL O o f feet) . ne the most beautiful peaks in the Dolomites and o n o f f e the most di ficult to ascend . One ” M mountain is like another, said ichel Inner kofler to Zsigmondy , but the Elfer and the

ZwOlfer iffi ZwOlfer alone are d cult , the on account of its great ice couloir and the Elfer

o f o because the hard bit at the t p. It was ﬁrst climbed in 1875 by Michel and

Johann Inner ko ﬂer by the south - west face and the ice couloir which cleaves this Side o f the mountain ; but the ice couloir being fr e

on quently impossible , and usually dangerous v account of falling stones , a route which a oids

was it is now generally followed . This dis

in 188 Reichl covered 7 by M. Simon and J . r with Michel and Johann Inn er koﬂe . It leads 2 2 2

THE D OLOMITE S

n 18 - Fi ally , in 97 , the north east face was

Witzenm ann climbed by Adolf and Emil , with

r ae . A . and G . Sio p s The CIME CADINI are a little- known c ollec tion o f peaks lying due east of the Misurina

S ee M S a , seen from onte Pian near chluderb ch

- as two compact many toothed rock stocks . A tour round the group can be made in Six or seven hours from the Misurina See via the Col M M di Pian di anetto , the Forcella araja , the

’ d On e Cam ed elle Val g and the Valle p . The highest peak is the HOchste Cadinspitze

Cadini 20 o f or Cima (93 feet) , an easy climb four hours from the Misurina See via the Lago

Vantor no and the Forcella Rimbianco , and then south up the high valley or kar which

ou t here opens , strewn with rocks , scree and snow. The Kar can be reached also without SO much fatiguing scree - climbing by branching off to the right at the Lago Vantor no and ascending to the Passo di Tocci between the Kleiner Popena and the Nord - westliche

z Cadinspit e . From the kar a snow couloir on the left separating the HOchste from the 2 2 4 T HE MA RMOLA TA G ROU P

Nor d Ostliches itze t o p is mounted the ridge ,

whence easy rocks lead to the summit .

- MINOR CLIMB S . Other climbs in the Sexten Dolomites which can merely be mentioned

Einser kofel 88 P ater n kofel are the ( 55 feet) ,

000 Sior aes 8 6 (9 feet) , Torre p ( 37 feet) and C 01 dei Bagni (9790 feet) . Ea sy as re

gards climbing , but in some cases fatiguing , are the Haunold (9535 feet) - from the

Bir kenkofel south (9555 feet) , Kanzel

82 Ob er b achem s itze 8 0 ( 94 feet) , p ( 77 feet) ,

Schwalb enko fel 10 S chu ster latte (94 feet) , p

1 Hochb r u nn er schn eid e (949 feet) , and feet)

—E s To in PASSE S . asy pa ses are the b l ger Riedel (Drei Zinnen Hut) from Landro to

Sexten ; from Schluderbach to Sexten over

Lu n ier es the Forcella g , Patern Sattel and

Tob lin er B iihele o ch S g Riedel ; j , from exten to the Mar zon and Ansiei valleys ; Wild gr ab en

S S an d eb iihel joch , from exten to Landro ;

S Gir alb a o ch joch , from exten to Auronzo ; j , from Sexten to Auronzo by the Zsigmondy Hut 2 2 5 THE D OLOMITES

MARMOLATA GRO UP

Though the Mar m olata group is dis tingu ished by possessing the highest peak and the largest , indeed the only , glacier of any Size in the Dolomites , English climbers have not hitherto paid much attention

i Mar m olata to the d strict , though of course the peak itself has been well enough known to

1860 l them Since , when Ba l unsuccessfully attempted its ascent . Perhaps this neglect is its l due in part to comparative inaccessibi ity , there being no convenient and popular tourist t S centres , like Cor ina and exten in the groups already considered , from which the peaks can be taken direct . The group is enclosed by the Dolomiten

on the Fassathal Strasse north , the on the west , and the route from Moena via Pellegrino to

Caprile on the south , immediate access to the

Fed a a peaks being from the j Pass on the north ,

Contr in thal l the on the west , the vi lage of So ttogu d a o n the east and the Pellegrino Pass

Sotto u d a on the south . g possesses an inn , and on the Pellegrino Pass are the old Ospicio 2 2 6

THE D OLOMITE S

An examination o f the group discloses two principal chains which run nearly par allel - to one another and in the direction o f east t o west ; long rock ranges which have this peculi a r it -o f y , that their northern Sides are moderate w i slope , hilst their southern Sides are dist n

“ u ished it g by a steepness which , attaining s

Mar m olata maximum in the south face of the , can hardly be equalled in the whole Dolom ite

‘ i o f two reg on . The northern these chains

Mar m o l ta t he comprises the a , the Vernel , Punta Cornate and the Col Laz the southern is a long chain which commences with the Monte

Fop in the east and ' extends to the Monte Rissone in the w est ; w hilst joined to t he northern chain by the Passo Ombretta and to the southern chain by the Passo Om b r ettola is the horse - Shoe -shaped ridge of the Vem ale

The and Ombretta . interesting little Val

Ombr etta s eparates the two main chains «at

Contr inthal the east end , and the and Val di San Nicolo at the west end A n excellent m ap o f the group is published by the price Kr . which can 2 2 8 MA RMOLA TA be obtained by members o f the Club at half price from their Sections .

CLIMB S IN THE MARMOLATA GRO UP

A M E DI E A M R OLATA or MONT P NI feet) .

-Glancing around from the summit of almost any o f the south Tyrol peaks one can hardly fail to be struck by the pre- eminence o f this

o f proud queen the Dolomites , the glacier

Mar m olata encircled . A comparatively easy l c imb by the ordinary route , now rendered more accessible by the Club path from the

Por d oi och j , it attracts yearly large numbers o f G u erman and A strian tourists , and bids fair to become a rival to the Gross Glockner itself as the crowning evidence of their claim to

o f ri the coveted title Hochtou st . It was ﬁrst ascended in 1864 by Pau

G A Fu l entio l rohmann , with ngelo and g Dima ,

Fed a a from the j Pass , and this is still the ordinary route . Starting from the Club Hut

’ or from Valentini s Inn a Club path leads direct to the glacier , which is crossed almost due south to the snow hollow which goes steeply T HE D OLOMITES up between the Mar m olata di Rocca o n the left and the true summit on the right . Zig zagging up the snow , keeping a careful look ou t for avalanches , and ﬁnally turning right

o f e to the east face the north ar te , a steep li c mb over good rocks leads to the upper snows ,

c the whi h are traversed to summit . Time from the hut about ﬁve hours . When passing the rocks of the east face o f the north arete there may be seen the Grotta del Club Alpino f Italiano , an excavation intended to a ford

Shelter in case of snowstorms . The peak is also climbed from the Contr in

on wa M Haus the south Side , by y of the armo lataschar te 8 0 (9 4 feet) , a route discovered in

18 . S 72 by F . F . Tuckett tarting along the club

u itted fter path to the Ombretta Pass , this is q a an hour, and a path to the left taken in the

o f S direction the charte , which is reached in

’ now an hour and a half s climbing , made easy by ﬁxed ropes . From the Scharte there is a Choice of routes . One way is to proceed in a north - easterly direction over the western part of Mar m olata G the lacier, which abuts on the 2 30

A RMOLA TA

Scharte , and to cross the rock ridge known as the Piz Fed aj a at about the middle o f the

c o f ridge , thus rea hing the eastern half the glacier and joining the ordinary route from the

a a Fed j Pass . The other way is to climb the

e o f Mar m olata o ff west ar te the , which goes S to the right at the charte , straight to the

summit . This latter route was formerly a

f 1 0 di ﬁcult and hazardous ascent , but since 9 3

it has been liberally festooned with wire rope . AS there was already a tolerably easy way to ” the summit , the need for this facilitating

o f e the west ar te may be doubted , but its authors appear to defend it on the double gr ound that the magnitude and difﬁculty of their undertaking will excite the wonder and

d o f all a miration critical doubters , and that there will always remain fo r climbers the

S u dwan d is im piquant , which at any rate it

— r possible S o to adorn o deface . The ascent by the precipitous south face was ﬁrst accomplished in 190 1 by Miss Thoma

B tt Za on l so n M e e a e . , with ichele g and Bartolo g S O tarting from below the mbretta Pass , the 2 3 1 T HE D OLOMITES climb commences about 150 yards to the right of, and below , the big couloir which runs down from the summit ridge and bisects the face , and after reaching the ﬁrst terrace proceeds

- along it to the left near ly as far as the couloir . t From here to the second terrace , nearly straigh up over the face , and then up a crack leading off c to the right . Following the sec ond terra e to the east , and then proceeding mainly up a bent couloir , which comes down from the e ridge , the couloir is left j ust below the littl col , and the summit reached by the face and the snow ridge . S o excellent an authority

r . E . A l as M . Broom describes it as undoubted y the best climb in the Dolomites . VE RNEL or GRAN VE RNE L feet) is an imposing -looking rock pyramid in the

o f northern chain the group , separated from

Ver nelschar te the Kleiner Vernel by the , the Kleiner Vernel being itself separated from the

Marm olata r m l h by the Ma o atasc ar te . It is a

if 18 G d ﬁcult peak , ﬁrst climbed in 79 by ott M G fried erzbacher, with iorgio and Battista

r e Bernard . F om the F d aj a Pass it is reached 2 32

THE D OLOMITES can also be reached from S o ttogu d a (near

b e Caprile) up the Val Ombretta , which lies tween the Mar m olata south face and the Monte

Fop , but care must be taken to keep to the left after leaving the huts of the Malga Ombretta as the path to the right leads to the Passo Ombretta .

B — r e OTHE R CLI M s . There a many minor peaks in this group of which some are easy

as Om b er t 8 80 climbs , such the Col ( 7 feet) ,

Om b r ettola 86 Ostliche Cima (95 feet) , Cima

Cadina 0 Col ~ Laz 8 6 (945 feet) , ( 93 feet) , Cima

8 0 Contr in Ombretta (9 7 feet , overlooking the

di ul M Haus) ; others fﬁc t , such as the onte

0 M Fo 8 Banca (94 9 feet , onte p (945 feet) , Sasso di Val Fredda (9974 feet) ; whilst still more difﬁcult are the Mar m olata di Rocca

80 feet) , Punta Cornate (99 feet) , ’ 868 Punta dell Uomo (9 feet) , and the Kleiner

Vernel feet) .

A E S — Fed a a Sir elle P SS The j Pass , the Pass and the Mar m olat aschar te have already been referred to . The Forcella di Padon leads from the Fed aj a to Pieve di Livinallongo (Buchen 2 34 THE L A NG KOF E L G R OU P

stein) in 45 hours , and is the Shortest way to or from Cortina . The Ombretta Pass and the Om b r ettola Pass both supply routes from the Contr in Haus to S ottogu d a (for Caprile)

e d a a F as well as to the F j Pass , and the orca Rossa supplies a route from S an Pellegrino down the Val Fr anzetas to the same places .

THE GRODE N GRO U P

This group rises round the Gr o d ner thal and consists o f three sub- groups : ( 1) the

Lan ko fel 2 S on g , and ( ) ella the south of the valley ; (3) the Geisler on the north .

( 1) Langkofel S u b - Gr ou p

Lan ko fel su b - l The g group is a sma l , nearly

o n circular mass , bounded the north by the

Gr Od ner thal , on the east by the route from

S ella to l Wolkenstein over the joch Campitel o , o n o n the south by the Val Duron , and the west by the route from St Christina to the

M hl n ht o h a k ec j c . It is conveniently reached

Waid b r u c k o n o n from the west , a station the

i Gr Od ner thal St Brenner Ra lway , by the to Ulrich ; from Cortina o n the east by the 2 3S THE D OLOMITES

Dolomiten- strasse over the P or d OI] och to the

Club Hut o n the Sellaj och ; from Bru neck in the Pu ster thal on the north up the Gader ‘ thal and over the Gr Od ner joch to Wolken stein ; from the Fassathal in the south by the road to Campitello and then via the Fassa

c St . or S ella o ch j o h to Christina , , via the j to

lla the Se j och Club Hu t . In shape the massif resembles a huge horse

o n o f shoe , the rim which are ranged the

IS principal summits . The middle occupied

two - t Lan kofel by high lying S erile basins , the g

Plattkofel Kar and the Kar, separated from each other by a rock spur which culminates

Lan ko felkar s itze o f in the g p , at the foot which the two basins j oin and open out into the

nﬁn Lan k fel Co Boden . At the head of the g o

e o f Fiinfﬁn er s itze Kar , b tween the walls the g p the Gr ohm annspitze and the Langko felkar G h G Spitze lies the small ro mann lacier, and a still smaller glacier is embedded in the rocks o f

Lan kofels itz the g p e . The group is remarkable

l r o f in that , with the so ita y exception the Platt fﬁ kofel , all its climbs are of extreme di culty . 2 36

T HE D OLOMITE S the rock basin in which lies the Langko fel

G so - lacier , then up an ice couloir , the called ” untere Eisrinne , and ﬁnally up a second

so - E i ice couloir, the called obere isr nne .

These two couloirs , however, in particular the

one upper , being narrow , steep , and at times

- stone swept , are extremely dangerous , except

l o so in ear y summer when there is much sn w, v — F that the route o er the rocks the elsenweg ,

dis which avoids the obere and. which was covered in 1892 by the guide Luigi Bernard — and the porter Giuseppe Davar d a is now f l . di usual y followed The climb is ﬁcult , but under favourable conditions is now frequently performed by good climbers . Time from the

Langkofel Hut about 45hours .

all Three other routes have been made , of “ E e f S . great di ﬁculty , namely by the ar te , the

. v . NE . face and the N face respecti ely 8 — ERS PITZE . FUNFFING (9 33 ! feet) The ex tr aor dinar y reputation for difﬁculty which this peak j ustly possesses is well known ; in c om pany with the Kleine Zinne and the Vaj olet Thtir m e it is the type o f the modern rock 2 38 F UNF F I NG E RSP I TZ E pinnacle which is climbed o u t o f pure love of adventure and for the sake of experiencing the delight o f overcoming great physical

f for o f di ﬁculties , and not the sake a ﬁne view or from a natural inclination for attaining the most prominent height in a district Its name indicates its general resemblance

- to a hand , only , as Norman Neruda says , you must not be too accurate in counting

. S S the ﬁngers een from the south , the ella j och Side the pinnacle on the right is the thumb or Daumen the col between this

Zei efin er and the first finger ( g g , seen better from the Langko fel Kar Side) is called the

Dau m enschar te or , and the second middle

Mittelfin er finger ( g ) is the highest summit . Between the Zeigefinger and the peak finger on this south Side is the Schmitt Kamin . Seen from the Langko fel Kar the appearance is that o f the back of a right hand . The peak will always be associated with the

o f - name Norman Neruda , upon whom it ex er c ised a fascination which led him to the

18 1 summit Six times . In 9 he and Christian 2 39 THE D OLOMITE S

Klucker discovered the route up the north Side ; 18 i S t in 94 he cl mbed the chmi t Kamin alone , descending by the Dau m enschar te route; in 1895 he and Rudolf von Arvay traversed on fou r ‘wa s the same day all the y , namely up S the chmitt Kamin and down the north route , then up the west route and down the Daumen

. 18 8 scharte route , all in Six hours In 9 , by ” o f as a cruel irony fate , his widow wrote in

T he Clim bs o Nor m an-Ner uda her preface to f , he m et his death on the very mountain with

0 a and which he was m st famili r, through a momentary neglect o f one o f the rules of mountaineering upon which he insisted so — strongly that o f n ot undertaking any very difﬁcult ascents when not in the best of health . He himself has given the mountaineer the

’ o f one watchword caution , and no was more fully aware o f the terrible penalty that the least deviation from the accepted r u les for the avoidance o f dang er exacts from the

Ma sad climber . y this tragedy serve as a ” warning to other mountaineers . Four routes up the peak have been dis 2 40

T HE D OLOMITES ascent was made Simultaneously with that

Im m ink S made by Frau up the chmitt Kamin , and the two parties met on the summit .

SO- O or The third route , the called stweg ,

Dau m enschar tewe 18 1 g , was discovered in 9 i by H . J . T . Wood , with three gu des , and was Dau m enschar te from the south side up to the , then up the wall o f the foreﬁnger and to the col , where the Schmitt Kamin ends . The Scharte can be reached also direct from the

Lan ko f l Dau m enschar te g e j och . The route ll is the one now generally fo owed . Time from

lla o h the S e j c about 35 hours .

so - A fourth route , by the called West

18 S weg , was made in 95 by Oskar chuster M and Friedrich eurer . GROHMANNS PITZE feet) is separated from the Fiinfﬁnger spitz e by the Fiinﬂinger scharte , and is a huge block with steep solid walls towards the Sellaj och on one Side and to wards the circus of the Grohmann Glacier on

lim in i f . the other . The c b g s di ﬁcult by all routes The ﬁrst ascent was made in 1890 by Michel

nner koﬂer Gr ohm annschar te I alone , from the 2 42 I NNER KOF LE RTH U RM

up the west face . This route is not often

six followed now , and though some ﬁve or l others have been accomp ished , each possesses

own f so n its di ﬁculties , that there is no e which can be called the usual route . The so called Enz ensper ger Weg from the Fu nf

ﬁn er schar te E . N. E . g by the ridge , and the

or dwand N route , present the cleanest rock

climbing and are the freest from falling stones, dangerous ice couloirs and wet slabs . Time for

L n f l a ko e . either from the g Hut , about 5 hours INNE RKOPLE RTHU RM feet) was named

M Inner kofler after the celebrated guide , ichel , who made the first ascent alone in 1880 . f f Though di ficult , it is the least di ficult of the

o f Plattko fel group , with the exception the , and is climbed by the west face from the Zahnko felschar te in about 35 hours from the

L n l a gko fe Hut .

ZAHNKOFEL 82 (9 5 feet) , a difﬁcult climb but comparatively Short . The ﬁrst ascent

188 was made in 9 by the guide , Luigi Bernard , whilst prospecting in cloudy weather ; after reaching the summit rather unexpectedly he 2 43 T HE D OLOMITE S

returned and led up Dr . L . Darm stadter and

H l r al now ans Stab e e . The usu route is from the Ostliche Plattko felschar te direct to the

Lan ko fel peak . Time from the g Hut about

3 hours .

’ Z LANGKOFELKARSPIT E (92 12 feet) . The rock ridge separating the Langko fel Kar from

Plattko fel o u t the Kar , which breaks from the main horse- Shoe- shaped ridge between the

Gr o m anns itze Inn er koﬂer thu r m h p and the , culminates in a Sharply- pronounced peak to which the name Langko felkar spitze was given

C o by its ﬁrst limbers , and then sinks t the

L n a gko fel Hu t . The peak was ﬁrst ascended

18 M 2 . in 9 by Hans Lorenz , W erz and Victor

Lan ko fel Wessely from a point far in the g Kar, up a snow couloir high in the NE . face and thence by chimneys and ledges to the peak . In

18 D l o 95 it was climbed by H . e ag alone from ifﬁ the Grohmann Glacier . Both routes are d cult and take about 35 hours from the Lang kofel Hut .

P LATTKOFEL e (south peak , 9744 f et , north

— - 10 . Ou w peak , 97 feet) the south est Side the 244

TH E D OLOMITE S j och (8800 feet) is easily reached from the

Lan kofel g Kar by a club path , which descends — on the other Side in zig zags to the Sellaj och

Hut .

c olS There are high , which may be crossed

the between various peaks , namely , the

Fiinfﬁn er schar te Gr ohm annschar te g , the , the

Z hnko felschar te a , the eastern and the western

Pla k l h r Fiinffin er har tt ofe sc a te . The g sc te is difficult ; the Gr ohm annschar te is the highest and is extremely difficult ; the Zahnk o fel scharte and the eastern Plattko felschar te are less difficult under good conditions .

- (2 ) S ella S u b Gr oup. The Sella group is in shape an irregular

o n hexagon , bounded the north by the route from Wolkenstein to Corvara over the Gr o d ner ~ joch ; on the east by the new road from Corvara to Araba over the Campolun go saddle ; on the south b y the Dolom itenstr asse from Araba over the Por d oijoch and o n the west by the route from Canazei to Wolkenstein over the Sella j och . The round tour is easy and interesting . 2 46 SELL A G ROU P

The approaches from the Brenner Railway ,

Fassathal Cortina , Bruneck and the are the

Lan ko fel same as those to the g group , from which it is only separated by the S ellaj och di and the small valleys lea ng up to the latter .

o f This group , all the Dolomite groups , is E perhaps the least known to nglish climbers , a circumstance due probably to the aspect and character of the peaks . Its higher summits

- possess no strongly marked outline , no pro nou nced ridge development , hardly any separ

i . ate individual ty Rock teeth , towers , pin n acles and needles do n ot thrust themselves upon the notice of the casual passer- b y ; no m o d eb er g ﬁghts for recognition in the

o f r recesses the g oup , no reputation has been made out o f its climbs . Viewed as a whole from the neighbouring valleys it presents to

- the observer a broad , massive , table topped

i o f basic stock , with a sol d outer wall rock l gird ed with terrace bands , and without any

o f great variations in the height its upper edge .

a A closer examination , however, reve ls many

grotesque details j ust as in other groups , and 2 47 THE D OLOMITES after scaling the encircling wall the usual characteristic Dolomite crags are found inside . The summits are ranged on three or four ridge

o r chains more less separated from each other ,

B O6 on Pisciad u namely , the ridge the east , the

Mesu les ridge in the centre , and the ridge , with

Mu r fr ait the adj oining ridge , on the west , and as all rise from a great central plateau many o f the climbs are both easy and Short . Nature having provided several openings in

o f the wall , man , in the shape the Bamberger Section o f the has proceeded to construct paths through them , some with fﬁ ﬁxed ropes in the di cult places , and all lead

2 ing to the Bamberger Hut (94 5 feet) , Situated

dl o f near the mid e the group . These openings

M Mitta sthal are the Val de esdi ( g ) , which com m enc es Collfu sch on - near g the north east , the Val Culea south o f and close to the Gr Od ner

h Lasties j oc on the north , the Val near

on - P or d oi Canazei the south west , and the

P or d oi o n scharte near the joch the south .

The paths , which are equally useful to the

to the : tourist and climber , are as follows 2 48

THE D OLOMITES

Roa Lasties huts , traverses the Val , and after j oining the combined Pisciad u weg and Val

Culea path , as mentioned above , reaches the

hut . This path can also be reached from the S ellajoch by a path which joins it a little

beyond the Roa huts .

5 . A ﬁfth way leads to the b u t from the

Por d oi r h r j och over the Po d oisc a te . The climbs are most c onveniently taken from the Bamberger Hut , but many can be l taken equal y well , or better in some cases , di Gr Od ner och Collfu sch rect from the j , g ,

o f Corvara or Canazei . The map the Lang kofel and Sella groups referred to in the pre ceding section is equally serviceable for this section . It Should be observed that some of the heights given hereafter are not fully established .

B OES PITZE su m feet) , the highest

- mit in the group , is a dumpy , dome Shaped

o ne peak , and is of the ﬁnest view points in the

was Dolomites . The ﬁrst recorded ascent by

Paul Grohmann in 1864. It can be easily climbed from the Bamberger Hut in three 2 50 B OE SP I TZ E A ND P ORD OI SP ITZ E

o f o r quarters an hour , may be taken direct from the P or d oischar t e without touching the hut , whilst ﬁnally there is a marked route

’ M B o e from Corvara by the Crap de ont , the

o f See and the Eis S ee . From the summit the B o e: other peaks in the ridge may be

f t the climbed without great di ﬁcul y , namely ,

S Eissees itze Cresta trenta , the p , the Pezza

Lon hatta Vallons itze . g , the Neuner and the p

E HNE R 6 B OE SEEKOFE L Z (95 4 feet) , (9547

P IZK F feet) and O EL (92 74 feet) . These three

n peaks , though on the main Boe ridge , ca not be reached by following it from the Neuner or

Vallons itz e see the p ( above) , but must be taken direct from the Val de Mesdi on the west o r ll on the Va on the east . The Zehner is a difﬁ cult peak which is climbed from either o f the two valleys by way of the Moser schar t e . The

Pizko fel fﬁ is also di cult , and is reached from

' M o n B o esee the Crap de ont the east , while the f kofel makes a continuation o the same climb . P ORDOIS PITZE (8235 feet) is the most south

' o f B o e is erly peak the ridge , and easily climbed

P o r d o is har in half an hour from the c te . It 2 5 1 T HE D OLOMITES

Sella o ch can be taken also from the j , up the

Val Lasties s o - l , through the called angen G ” raben , a scree couloir on the right which contains snow and Ice ln Its upper part and

r d i h which leads to the Po o sc ar te .

ME S ULE S 8 6 o f (9 3 feet) , the highest peak the

Mesu les o f western or ridge , is an easy ascent

1 5 hours from the Bamberger Hut , and is a

Gr Od ner ﬁne view point . From the j o ch it is l reached by the Val Cu ea , the Val Chadin and

h r te Collfu sch the Gam ssc a . From g it is

c M Pisciad u we rea hed by the Val de esdi , the g

Pisci u and the Vallon di ad . The western

S Mesu les ella plateau , from which the rises , has other peaks which can also be combined

Ro ttic e with it in a round tour , namely , the Piz ,

B e u z Gr alb a S Piz g , Piz , Piz elva and Piz

L sties Gam sb u r Pis iad u a . The g and the c see kofel in the same ridge but to the north o f

Mesu les ﬁ Mu r fr i the are more dif cult . The a t Spitze and the Mu r fr aitthu r m which adjoin

Mesu les al fﬁ the ridge are so di cult .

P I I D SC A U (9785 feet) is an easy climb . Reaching the Pisciad u See either from the Va] 2 52

THE D OLOMITE S

Gad er thal on Villn o s the the east , the upper thal on the north , and the route from St Ulrich

Vila sthal B r o les schar te to the , over the g , on the west . Besides the Geislerspitzen

P u ezs itzen proper it embraces the p , the

Gar d enac c ia Ro ths itzen Tschier i Alp , p , the e spitzen and the Stevia Alp . The nam is even extended sometimes to peaks and small assemblages o f peaks north o f the Vila s4 “ al Peitler ko fel o r th , such as the the Plose

T l h z e e r a s it e G . g p p , and the abler Its approaches are much the same as those to the Langko fel and Sella Groups already described . An early writer describes the Geislerspitzen as the wildest o f all the Dolomites and

o f pictures them as a series rhombohedrons ,

- posts , sugar loaves and ﬁngers , towering di perpen cularly and coloured grey, brown , ” yellow and red .

Two valleys penetrate the main mass ,

- namely the Langenthal , leading north east

Tschisler thal from Wolkenstein , and the leading north - east from St Christina over the 2 54 S A S S RI G A I S A N D F E RME D A

Wasser al o ch or P pj , the urcella della Roa , to th Cam pil and on to the Gad er al . — The Regensburger Hut (672 5 feet an inn

Tschisler thal in summer) is in the , and may be reached in two hours from St Christina . — The Puez o r Ladinia Hut (8170 feet pro Al visioned) is on the Puez p, 35 hours from ll h Corvara and Co fu sc g . The relative sections of the Oester r eichische

S 1 K ] . 0 6 . pezialkarte are Zone 9 , 5 and

- SA RI GAI S 0 . SS (993 feet) First ascent , in

18 8 i h . N lu ts . c 7 , by Dr B Wagner and Herr g , with Giorgio and Battista Bernard . It is ﬁ not a dif cult climb , the rocks having been

e rop d in places . The usual route is from the

c on Regensburger Hut , over pastures and a

Mitta schar te structed path to the g , and thence f up the south face . A more di ﬁcult way , also

Wasser r in nen thal from the hut , is up the and over the col between the Sass Rigais and the

Fu r u q etta . Time by either route about 3 hours .

FE RMEDATHURM 0 fﬁ (944 feet) , a di cult

in 188 and exposed rock peak , ﬁrst climbed 7 2 55 THE D OLOMITES

. . G . by Dr K Schulz , E . T . Compton and T . M B M. ett a e . artin , with g The ascent is made

W. S . from the Regensburger Hut , up the face

S fﬁ E . till more di cult is the ascent up the N . face . Time by either route about 3 hours .

P Z Z — UE S PIT EN . Three peaks , rising from Al M e the Puez p, the Westliche , the ittl re

Ostliche o f M 61 and the , which the ittlere , 9 5 feet , is slightly the highest . All are easily climbed from the Puez or Ladinia Hut in about

2 " hours . They can be reached also from Wolkenstein by the Langenthal and a marked way to the Puez Alp .

TS CHIERSPITZEN , consisting of a close array o f HOchst es itze 8 0 ten peaks , of which the p ( 53 feet) is the highest and is easily reached in 15

d n r hours from the Gr O e j och along a Club path .

OTHE EAK diﬁicult er R P S , , are the Klein F m ed athu r m Vil a ser thu r m Tschisler , , Odla ,

G G Fu r u etta ran Odla, rosse q and Kleine Fur “ quetta , all reached from the Regensburger

Hut ; the Sass Sou gher from Collfu schg ; and the Rothspitzen from the little Danter Coppies thal to t he east o f Wolkenstein . Easy walks 2 56

THE D OLOMITES

Though not well known to English climbers , notwithstanding the English names en

in countered its early history, the Rosen garten group is ﬁrst favourite with German and Austrian mountaineers . This is n o t

for e surprising , even English climbers hav

Mr described it in glowing terms , E . A .

o f i it Broome , for instance , being op nion that “ provides , more than any other group , sporting

fo r and sensational hours mountaineers , and fantastically beautiful scenes and colour effects for less advent urous travellers ; whilst Mr Coolidge terms the peaks ghostly and hide ” u l belles ho r eu r s o s r . y splendid pinnacles , The ﬁne range of cliffs as seen from Botzen resolves itself upon nearer acquaintance into a massif w s ith many limbs , whose bold , Slender tower and needles invite the admiration o f the tourist

f ’ and challenge the Skill o the cragsman . It is conveniently reached from Botzen b y road to the Karer See ; from Blumau, a station

the Tier ser thal on Brenner Railway, up the to WeiSSlahnb ad and the Grasleiten Club Hut ;

Waidb r u ck on l from , also the Brenner Rai way, 2 58 THE ROSEN G A RTE N C H A I N by road to Seis and the Sc hler n from Cortina by the Dolo m iten str asse over the Por d oij o ch to Cam mtello and the Costalu nga Pass ; from

t S chler n S Ulrich over the Seiser Alp to the . From the Karersee (or Costalunga) Pass on

the the south , which separates this group from

Lat em ar d u e , the Rosengarten stretch at ﬁrst

the north in a long chain , beginning with

M é t o Punta del asar , the Coronelle , where an eastern ridge leads to the Mu g onispitz en an d

iam e peters o u t in the C p dia . From the Coronelle the northern ridge is continued to

Ro sen ar t en s itz e Va olet Thiir m e the g p and the j , and then with many gaps to the two Valb u on

Gr asleiten S itz en Ro ther d kogel , the p and the

t o Spitze , from which a long ridge runs east

ssz ahne hl r n To the Ro and west to the Sc e . the east o f the Roseng ar ten spitz e we have

- Lar sec on the semi independent group , the

K esselk o el north of which is the g , whose ridge is continued north through the Antermoia M kogel to the olignon . The district is now well supplied with Club

all o f Huts , which are inns in summer, namely , 2 59 THE D OLOMI TES the Kolner 6 0 t 2 Hut (7 3 feet) , abou 5 hours

from Welschnofen and the Karersee Pass , for the southern peaks of the group ; the Vaj olet

0 o f Hut (743 feet) , at the foot the Rosengarten

Va olet Thur m e spitze and the j , for the central

G 100 peaks ; the rasleiten Hut (7 feet) , ﬁnely

Tscham in thal situated at the head of the , for the northern peaks and the best- known easy passes ; and the Oester tag Hut at the foot o f the Teu felswan d spitz e whilst o n the S chlem plateau are the S chlem Club Hut and the

hl dl o ff S c er n Inn . Har y too far for con venienc e o f climbing are the hotels at the

Karersee , the Costalunga Pass , Welschnofen a n d i l h We ss a nb ad . A good map of the district is published by the obtainable at the usual price fo r

’ K - t he . o Club s maps , namely, 4 7 , or half price t o members applying through their Sections .

CLIMB S IN THE R O SE N GA RTE N GRO U P

KE S S ELKOGE L 8 6 h su m (9 4 feet) , the ighest m it o f o f the group , is a rock peak no great

was 1 d ifﬁculty . It ﬁrst climbed in 872 by 260

T HE D OLOMITES e fﬁ l S h ast the most di cu t . tarting from t e Vaj olet Hu t the ordinary route lies up the ra vine and scree Slopes o f the Gartl to the

8880 two Santner Pass ( feet) in about hours , a nd from the pass up the steep north -west wall ﬁrst by a narrow chimney and then over rocks

S 0 1 to the ridge , and to the peak in another 5 hours . The climbing is good and o f inter e sting difficulty . The Santner Pass can be reached from the Réilner Hut as well as from l t the Vaj o e Hut . The ascent by the south ridge from the Ro seng ar ten schar te was first made in 1877 S G M by Johann antner and ottfried erzbacher . The east route is no t only the most d ifficult o f all but is also one o f the longest and most l d ifiicu t of the Dolomite climbs . It was first

Philli r 18 6 . . m o e . G . m ade in 9 by J S and A . S Dim ai Raynor , with Antonio and Luigi Rizzi .

VA OLET THURME The J are Six in number , d two o f ivided into groups three , a north group and a south group , the towers of each group

running from a single rock base , and the two b ases being separated each other by a 2 6f2rom T HE VA J OLE T TH URME

- d eep unnamed cleft . Norman Neruda cites these towers in his ironical inquiry , When is a tower a peak and not a mere Spur ? In 1884 only three Vaj olet towers were recognized ; a few years later there were four, and then ﬁve , a n d now there are Six , from which he humor o u sly concludes that a tower is only an inde f pendent peak when it is very di ﬁcult to climb . By this test the Vaj olet towers all pass with honours . The three towers of the northern group are

as Hau tthu rm 2 6 O known the p , (9 5 feet) the st thurm (9 2 30 ) and the Nor d thu r m and with the exception o f the last - named are very

f Hau tthu r m d i ﬁcult . The p was ﬁrst climbed in 1882 by Gottfried Merzbacher with Giorgio

Bernard ; the other two in 1892 by Dr . Hans t l Helver sen with Hans S ab e er . In traversing the three summits the Nord thurm is taken ﬁrst , and then the other two successively from the little scharte between the

H u u r s h a ptth m and the O tt u rm . The three towers o f the southern group have

been named after their ﬁrst climbers , and are 2 6 3 T HE D OLOMITES among the half- dozen most difﬁcult rock peaks

Win ler in the Dolomites . The k thu r m (9185

188 G feet) was ﬁrst climbed in 7 by . Winkler “ alone ; the Stab eler thu r m (9203 feet) in 1892 by Dr . Hans Helver sen with Hans Stab eler ; and the Delag othu r m (912 1 feet) in 1895 by l Hermann De ago alone . The three can be traversed from west to east , that is in the order

Dela o Stab eler l g , , Wink er , or in the reverse order from east to west . ROTHWAND (92 15 feet) is the highest and most- frequented peak of the southern Rosen

o . l garten gr up , and has a ﬁne view The usua

Va alo n ascent is from the j Pass , which is easily

r S ee reached in three hours f om the Karer , and

e then along the north ridge , ﬁrst on its east sid

o n to and then its west , by a visible track the

s summit in an hour from the pass . By thi route the climb is easy . The ﬁrst ascent by the difficult west face was made in 1906 by

. . C o A . E . Broome and H K orning , with Antoni

Dim ai and Agostino Verzi . GRO SSE R VALB UONKOGEL (9255 feet) was ﬁrst ascended in 1884 l) y Johann Santner and 264

T H E D OLOMITE S

the G f cu is rasleiten ridge , containing three di ﬁ lt

Gr asleitenthu r m 8 0 climbs , namely , the ( 39

Gr asleitens itz e 8 66 feet) , the Westliche p ( 7 feet) ,

M Gr asleitens itz 88 and the ittlere p e ( 75 feet) .

GRA S LE ITE NTHURM The , which is perhaps

o f the most difﬁcult the three , was ﬁrst climbed

18 r - in 94 by No man Neruda and L. Treptow ,

Miihlstei er with Anton g , the route being via the Ju nischar te (between the Thurm and the

Westliche) , which is reached either by the difﬁcult chimney visible from the hut or

(somewhat easier) by the face . Time from the hut about 2 5 hours .

E TL CHE GRAS LE ITENS PITZE The W S I , likewise f di ﬁcult from all Sides , was ﬁrst climbed in

8 . Dar m stad te 18 9 by Dr L . n with Hans

Stab eler and Luig i Bernard , by the south face , nearly up to the c ol between the Westliche M fﬁ and the ittlere , and then by the di cult east ridge . Time from the hut about 3 hours . Other routes are by the north face from the

Al enkli enthal e p pp , and by the west ar te from

u nis har e the J c t . The MITTLE RE GRAS LE ITENS P ITZE is the 2 THE MOL I G NON R I D G E highest peak in the ridge and was ﬁrst climbed

188 in 5 by J ohann Santner alone , the route being the same as for the Westliche to a point

100 w about feet belo the col there mentioned , and then to the right over difﬁcult rocks and ledges . Time from the hut about 3 hours . The NORDOSTLI CHE GRAS LE ITE NS PITZE (8540

’ feet) is an easy half- hour s scramble over scree a nd rocks from the southern Molignon Pass . The traverse o f all three Spitzen from the J u nischar te to the Molignon Pass is a ﬁne di ﬁ expe tion , but is both long and dif cult .

MOL GN O N D GE The I RI , which forms the e o f G astern buttress the rasleiten Kessel ,

No r dlicher 8806 has three peaks . The ( feet) , c Al en latten Ma alled p p in the p, is fﬁ h l not di cult from the Du r on t a . The Nord

’ westlicher (9120 feet) is an easy hour s walk by M a Club path from the northern olignon Pass , and is visited for the sake o f its ﬁne View The Mittlere (9355 feet) is a somewhat difﬁcult

An t c limb via the ter m o j akogelschar e . The whole ridge can be traversed from the

No r dlicher , though between the Nordwest 2 67 TH E D OLOMITE S licher and the Mittlere it is very narrow and

“ broken up , besides being rotten in places . If the climber has not had enou gh when he rea ches the central peak he can continue the

Anter m o ako el See expedition over the j g , the kogel and even the Kesselko gel .

CHLE RN — The S . The triangular massif of the Schler n is severed o n the west by the Schler n

on o f graben , the south Side which are the

Tschafatschb er Mitta sko fel g , the g , the Nikel

Tschavon di berg and the , all somewhat te ous walks o r rough scrambles up the openings on

hler n r b en Sc a . the Tiers Side , or from the g itself On the north the massif is broken by the deep

Seiser klam m o n s o f , the western ide which

Gab elschler n the . u n schler n are the and J g ,

whilst on the eastern Side are the Burgstall ,

Eu r in er s itze the er s itze the g p and Santn p .

the Altschler n o r P To highest point , the etz

8 02 t ( 4 feet) , there are good paths from the nor h , t sou h , east and west , none of which involve

ANTNE R PITZE any climbing . The S S (7920 feet) fﬁ u is extremely di c lt , and was ﬁrst climbed by

8 E RIN E R J ohann Santner alone in 18 0 . The U G 2 6 8

T HE D OLOMITES

Oestliche Latem ar 166 (9 feet) , a tolerably easy

to climb from the south , ﬁrst by a club path

Latem ar sch ar te C the Kleine and the Col anon , and then along the southern slopes j ust under e the ar te , and over an unnamed peak to the summit . Time from the hotel about 45 hours . On the west of the scharte are the Latem ar

Thiir m e , the highest of which is the Diam antidithu r m 1 e (949 feet) , and the next high st the Chr istom anno s o r Oestlichethu r m (9337

b e feet) . These and the other towers can ascended from the south without great d ifﬁ

di or via culty , either rect from the Val Sorda the Grosse Latem ar schar te and the southern

: slopes The ascent from the north Side , whether up the couloir to the Grosse Latem ar scharte or by the Diam an tidikam in is very difﬁcult and usually dangerous from falling stones ; that by the Rothlahnschar te is less

1 08 . . . . difﬁcult . In 9 E A Broome and H K

Cor nin with e g , Agostino Verzi and Dibona , mad a new r oute up the Christ om annos by the north face . 270 P A S SES I N THE ROSEN G A RTEN

THE AK —In di O R PE S . ad tion to the fore going there are many other climbs , some

fﬁ Tschein er s itze 1 di cult , such as the p (9 55

Teu felswan d s itz e 8 feet) , p ( 933 feet , Laurins

2 0 Va olets itz e 86 1 wand (9 5 feet) , j p ( 9 feet) ,

Anter m o ako el 0 the Tscha j g (949 feet) , and m ins itzen 0 1 p (9 5 feet) ; others easy , such as the Coronelle (9165 feet) from the Vaj oletthal o r Va olon Seeko el from the j Kessel , the g

2 10 Ant er m o athal (9 feet) from the j , the Rother d spitz e (8700 feet) from the Schler n plateau . — PA SSE S . There are several passes across

s o the main chain , easy far as climbing goes but sometimes fatiguing , which can be

o r traversed from the Karer See , Welschnofen Tiers o n the west Side to the valleys on the

Va olo n Tscha er east side , namely , the j Pass , g

Va olet Pu r am e tsch o c h j och Pass , j Pass , g j and

Valb u o n Pass . From the Grasleiten Hut the Grasleiten Pass leads to the Vaj oletthal and

Va olet M n Gr Od ner j Hut , the olig on Pass to the

Mahlknecht och l thal , and the j to Campite lo , whilst the last - named place can also be reached 2 7 1 TH E D OL OMITE S by the Anter m oj a Pass combined with the

Duron Pass . The following high passes across the main chain involve climbing o f varying diﬂicu lty

Ro sen ar tenschar te the Baumann Pass , g ,

Santner Pass and Laurins Pass . The Anter m oj akogelschar t e and the Kesselkogelschar te are high passes between the Gr asleitenthal an d

Anter m o athal di l . the j , fﬁcu t , and sometimes dangerous on the western Side on account of falling stones .

PALA GRO UP

The PALA o r PRIMIE RO GRO UP is the southern

o f most group the Dolomites , situated about the Val Primiero . Without any very deﬁnite boundaries it is roughly contained in the

o n quadrilateral formed by Primiero the north ,

Agordo on the east , Forno di Canale on the

o n north and Paneveggio the west .

It is a group which , like the Rosengarten , provides , by its astonishing rock pinnacles f and cli fs , a ﬁne ﬁeld for the mountaineer, demanding not only climbing skill but a large 2 7 2

T HE D OLOMITE S

’ to enj oy many a pleasant day s scram ble in

o f stead being obliged , as is the case with longer expeditions in Switzerland and else

the where , to let many a ﬁne day Slip by in w weary wait for absolutely safe eather , which

in so rarely comes . Such climbs are found r all the Dolomite groups , but nowhere in greate

San M o profusion than around artino , Primier

o f and the club huts the Pala group . It adds to the interest that many o f the ﬁrst ascents of the important peaks were made by English

S e men , among whom was Leslie tephen , whos “ ” article on the Peaks o f Primiero in the P lay

r ou nd o Eu r o e g f p has already bee n referred to .

The group possesses several small glaciers ,

Fr ad u sta G Tr avi n olo namely the lacier, the g

G Fio cob on G lacier, the lacier , and the Pala

M i G o f di San art no lacier, all of them triﬂing extent .

Club huts are plentifu l . The Rifugio alla

8 0 — on Rosetta ( 53 feet inn in summer) , the

San M Rosetta Pass , three hours from artino ;

Pr avital e 66 — the Hut (7 5 feet inn in summer) , at the head of the Val Pr avitale (or P r adid ale), 274 C IMON DELL A P A L A

San 45 hours from Primiero , ﬁve hours from Martino via the Rosetta Pass and the Fr ad u sto

the Pass , or four hours via the Passo di Ball ; — Canali Hut (5640 feet inn in summer) at the

o f m head the Val di Canali , 35 hours fro

d u Mu laz Primiero ; and a new hut , the Rifugio ,

n is in course o f construction . Sa Martino di Castrozza and Primiero (Fiera di Primiero) are excellent centres . The relative sections o f the Oester r eichische

S 2 0 . 6 pezialkarte are Zone , Kol 5 and , Zone

K ] 6 . 2 1 0 . , 5 and

HE ALA G CLIMB S IN T P RO U P .

CIMON DE LLA PALA feet) is the second highest and the most popular peak in the group .

difﬁ l e It is an extremely cult c imb , ﬁrst mad

18 0 E . . in 7 by R Whitwell , with Christian

Lau en er o f S Sior aes Lauterbrunnen and anto p , over the Tr avign olo Glacier and by the north

o n o f face . This route is dangerous account falling stones and has now been supplanted

o ne - 188 by from the south east , discovered in 9 a by Dr . Darmst dter with Hans Stab eler and 2 7 5 THE D OLOMITE S

has Luigi Bernard , a route which since been facilitated by the erection o f the Rifugio alla Rosetta and the ﬁxing of a wire rope in the ﬂ‘i l m ost di cu t part of the ascent . From the b u t the route leads into the upper part of the Pian delle Comelle and then up the Valle dei

Cantoni , which ascends to the Passo di i Tr av gn olo . Thence over good rocks by chimneys an dterraces to a gap under a reddish b ri e rown tower, from where the summit dg c an be seen and the fu rther route descr ied by the fixed rope that hangs there . Past the fi e xed rope the way is over the ar te . Time from the hut about four hours . There are also difficult routes by the north w est arete and by the south face . CIMA DI VEZZANA feet) is the highest

is peak in the group , and separated from the Cimon della Pala b v t he snow- covered Passo

n lo I dif d i Tr avig o . t is less ﬁcult than the 8 C w s 1 2 . imon , and a ﬁrst climbed in 7 by D

hﬁel . . Fr es . W . d and C C Tucker without guides

The Tr avi nolo route lies via the Passo di g , which can be reached as described above from 276

THE D OLOMITES

From the Pr avitale Hut (or direct from San Martino) the route is via the Passo di Ball

~ o r - h and the scree , it may be snow couloir , whic comes from the col between the Cima di Ball and the Cima di Val di Roda ; up to the c ol and then left by ledges and ribs to the north e west ar te and the summit . Time from the hu t 2 , about 5 hours .

SA S MAO or SA O MAGG ORE 2 0 S R , SS I (9 4 feet) , a very difﬁcult peak ﬁrst climbed in 1875 by

B achcr oft . . A . e C C Tucker and H . with Francois Devou as sou d and Battista della

S . anta On the same ridge , and separated from

MA DE LLA MAD ONNA 02 it by a col, is the CI (9 5 feet) , the two peaks being referred to by Leslie ” “M Stephen as those astonishing twins . ore

o f r e Singular towers rock he says , a scarcely to be found in the Alps , towering upward in ” daring disregard of the laws o f equilibrium . The ascent commences up the Valle della Vecchia between the Cima di Ball and the M Sass aor, and rounding to the scree basin on the south between the Sass Maor and the Cima Cim ed o or Cim er ro the route makes up 2 78 CIMA D I F RA D U S TA to the deep recess under the col between the

ol twin peaks and ﬁnally up to the c itself . From here either peak can be reached by

ul difﬁc t and exposed climbing . The Cima d M o f ella adonna is the harder the two , and was ﬁrst ascended in 1886 by Georg Winkler a nd M A . Zott . Time from San artino for e ither peak about 6 hours .

MA D1 FRADU STA 610 CI (9 feet) , a compara tivel r m 186 y easy peak , ﬁ st cli bed in 9 by Leslie

Colesel Stephen with Rosso , a guide quaintly described by Stephen as possessing every virtue that a guide can have consistently with a total and profound ignorance o f the whole ” o f theory and practice mountain climbing . The usual route is from the Rosetta Hut to

- Fr ad u sta the south east , over the plateau to the

G . lacier, and up the snow to the peak Time l two . a from the hut , about hours An ternative route to the glacier is from the Canali Hut via the Passo di Canali and the Forcella di Sopra .

THE PEAK — O R s . The foregoing are the most important andbest- known climbs but the whole group numbers some ﬁfty o r more separate 2 79 T HE D OLOMITES

an M summits . Close to S artino are the

l Cu se lio Figlio de la Rosetta and the Cima di g ,

ac com both good climbs , which can easily be

- plished before mid day . In the northern part o f the group are the Cima di Fioc ob on or

Fu oc ob ono m B u r eloni i , Ci a dei , C ma del Mu laz and many others ; whilst to the south

Pr adid ali are the Cima di Canali , Cima di ,

Lastei Cima dei , and far to the east , separated from the main mass b y the Val di Canali an d

An or az G the Val g , are the Croda rande , Pala ‘ della Madonna and Monte Agner . — PASSE S The huts are connected by easy and attractive passes and marked paths , namely the Fr ad u sta o r Pr avitale Pass (8365 feet) between the Rosetta Hut and the Pr avitale di Hut ; the Pala plateau , Forcella Sopra and — Passo di Canali (8190 feet) o r alternatively the Forcella di Miel (8326 feet) and the Passo di Canali— between the Rosetta Hut and the i l Canali Hut . The Prav ta e Hut can be reached from S an Martino direct by the Passo di Ball

(8040 feet) . Of the passes into the neighbouring valleys 2 80

CHAPTER XVII

THE FLORA OF THE DOLOMITE S

HE region o f the Dolomites is one o f

peculiar interest to the botanist ; it possesses most of the more familiar Alpine

o f plants , and has , in addition , a number species which are found only in the Dolomitic district and seem to be peculiar to the Dolomitic rocks . It would be impossible to give here a com plete list o f the ﬂora to be found in the d Dolomites , and wepropose , therefore , to inclu e ,

c on ﬁrstly , those ﬂowers and plants which are

to dl ﬁned mainly South Tyrol , and secon y , those which are more particularly characteristic o f the area known as the Dolomites , with an indica tion o f the locality in which they may be found .

A distinguished botanist , writing of the Sw iss flora , has made some observations which apply equally t o the flowers to be found in the Al ” Dolomite region . The pine flowers , says the late Professor Hulme , at once impress us 2 82 COLOU R OF A LPINE FLOW E RS from the brilliancy o f their colour and from the great masses in which they are often found . This intensity o f colour is a characteristic o f m any genera that are specially Alpine , but

is it by no means limited to these , for we may o ften ﬁnd that species common enough on a

for E e lower level , such , example , as the y bright , assume an added brilliancy of colouring a n d ﬂowers o f larger Size when encountered

o n . higher ground It is suggested , and there w l ou d appear to be much cogency in the theory , that this in creased Size o f the ﬂowers and their richer colour arise from the need o f attracting the insects that assist in their fertilization , and that as these soaring butterﬂies o r energetic bees a r e much fewer in number at the higher eleva tions a competition arises among the plants for t heir services , and those , therefore , that develop the most attractive appearance and provide ” the richest entertainment fare the best .

The best time to visit any Alpine district , f o f rom the botanical point view , is naturally

u o r l the early summer ; by Aug st , late Ju y, m o f o f any the ﬂowers are over , and those that 2 83 T HE D OLOMITES are still in bloom great numbers fall victims

- to the frugal hay maker . The question of d altitu e , however , enters largely into con

o f sideration , and even in the latter part J uly

o f and the beginning August , though the lower slopes of the mountains may be comparatively fl sparsely decked with oral beauty , in the higher regions one may meet with a good many fine specimens which have been but recently t e leased from their covering o f snow . The characteristic referred to by Professor Hulme of the great masses in which the Alpine flowers are found is distinctly noticeable in the Dolomite regions at almost any time during

not the summe r . No one who has seen those — Slopes o f brilliant colour a whole hill - Side — aﬂam e with orange lilies a ﬁeld o f hemp which trembles into a delicate blue as the wind — Sweeps over it a pink tract of ragged robin would believe that one could meet with such extraordinary masses o f vivid colouring . On the other point mentioned by the same ll authority , viz . , the bri iancy of colour found Al m in pine plants , it be of interest to note 2ay4

T HE D OLOMITES

sapphire , with a central spot , white or yellow, fringed with orange or vermilion . Frequently, too e , the Alpine flow rs have stronger scents , and pour ou t more honey than their lowland ” allies . Of the particular localities in the Dolomite region which are peculiarly rich in botanical treasures the Schler n undoubtedly takes the first place ; it is a Spot which appears to b e the e o f h favourit Nature , for besides its wealt o f a o f flor it is peculiar interest to the geologist . The Seiser Alp in the immediate neighbour hood is a good hunting- ground for the botanical

Pu ster thal enthusiast , and the can also boast

r o f several rare species o f Alpine plants . Othe places of peculiar interest from the botanical

o f o f B the point view are the environs otzen ,

Etschthal HOhlensteiner thal , Landro in the ,

Sex tenthal Am ezzothal the the , the p , Feltre ,

Su ana assathal Fleim sthal an d Val g , the F ,

- d Fed aj a Pass . Writing of the last name

Mr n region , Churchill says , The upper basi

ﬂower - was a natural garden , where every

its r e r ese rtatives the colour had p , and even 2 g6 R I C H LO C A L ITIES l o n arger blocks scattered its surface became , through the lux uriance and variety o f the plants growing upon them , miniature gardens

P in u i u l i lor a s. c a r and in themselve g g f , with

P r ola u ni lor a E i actis r u bi in osa y f , and pp g ,

on S enecio were frequent the ascent , as also a br otani oliu s on A chillea f and , rocks ,

lavenw S em er vivu m C . In the upper basin p wu l eni P edicu lar is ver ticillata tu ber osa f , , , and

F as cicu lata Anthem is al J ina P r ethr u m f , y cer ato- h lloides Hier a ciu m villosu m S enecio p y , ,

Dor onicu m Chr s anthem u m m onta nu m , y ,

Ox tr o bis ilos a P r im u la lon i lor a M osotis y g p , g f , y a l estr is Gentiana nivalis ten ella p , with , and u tr icu losa were among the more interesting ” h l al . O P o zz at a species f the , a v ley which

o ff Fassathal branches from the to the east , w the same riter says , I was detained some time in this apparently ster ile region by the

o f abundance its botanical treasures , which k lay closely sprin led about , but their minute proportions produced no effect even upon the near landscape . Among the more interesting w P edicu lar is as leni olia Er itr ichiu m ere , p f , 2 87 TH E D OLOMITE S

’ n anu m P a aver r enaicu m P r im u la lu , p py , g tinosa m inim a Andr osace obtu si olia and , f ,

’ Cham e asm e lacialis P h teu m a au ci y and g , y p

or u m Anthem is al ina P otentilla nitid a ﬂ , p , ,

S old anella P u silla S axi r a a andr osace a . , f g var tr i da S axi r a a m u coides atr o ﬁ , with f g var . ” u r u e R nu cu lu s la li r a a n cia s . p p , and g In giving our ﬁrst list of the plants to be found more particul arly in South Tyr ol it should be und erstood that these are not

i n o t necessarily conﬁned to that d strict , or are

o f to be met with in other parts the Alps , but merely that they are more commonly met with in South Tyrol than in other districts ; fr e quently the particular variety named is more o r less peculiar to this region , while other more common Species may be found elsewhere . As far as possible the English name of the species is added .

Ra nu n cu laeeae Thalictr u m aq u ilegifoliu m Mead o w r u e a lpinu m Tha lictr u m aq u ilegifoliu m su b alpinu m A nem on e b ald en sis alpina Alpine ane m o ne Ran u ncu lu s S egu ier i B u tt er c u p Ran u n cu lu s bilob u s 2 88

THE D OLOMITES

Com posite? S enecio u niﬂor u s S enecio cacaliaster

Cir siu m m on tanu m Thistle

Cir s iu m car niolicu m Centau r ea oir r ha ta K n apweed Hier a oiu m m u ltiﬂor u m H a wkwee d Cam panu la ceae P hy teu m a c om os u m R am pion Ca m pan u la Rain er i Cam panu la C am pa n u la petr x a A n d r os ace im br ica ta

A n d r os a ce H a u ssm anni

A nd r os a ce oar n ea

P r im u lacew P r im u la Venu s ta P r im r ose P r im u la specta bilis P r im u la tir olien s is

P r im u la cen en s is

P r im u la F a echin ii P r im u la pu m ila

’ P lantaginew P lan tago fu s ceseens P lant ain P ced ar o ta B on ar ota P aed ar ota A ger ia S cr ophu lar ia cee E u phr asia tr icu s pid a ta P ed icu lar is a cau lis P ed icu la r is gy r oﬂexa P edicu lar is com os a Thym eleaeeae D aphn e petr wa Lau r el D aphne Lau r eola Ga ia Liottar di var i te t ar o f B e le Liliacew g ( . n r S th m edia ) hem P otam ogeton m ar inu s Car ex b ald en sis Car ex foetid a

The second list is o f those plants which are to be found more particularly in the Dolomite

sa region , that is to y , the district which has been deﬁned in the Opening chapter o f this 2 90 LIST OF FLOW ERS book ; we may add here that while in some cases it is true that the ﬂower or plant is to be

in found only in the locality named , in most stances the inclusion o i the species in this list indicates that it is to be met with in the d is tr ic t ﬁ mentioned , but is not necessarily con ned entirely to that region .

D r a b a P acher i E ts c hthal

D r a b a n ivea S c hl er n

D r a b a in ter m ed ia S c hlem

Viola Thom as ian a P u st erth al S ilen e P u m ilio Alpin e c hain e as t o f t he S c hlem A lsin e biﬂor a S eis er Alp M oehr in gia sphagn oid es B o t z en A r en a r ia A r d u in i Feltr e

Cer a s tiu m m ixtu m P u st er th al

A s tr a a lu s u r u r eu s S chler n P r ed g p p , a zz o S axifr aga a tr opu r pu r ea S c hl em S axifr ag a exa r a ta D o lom ites gener ally S a i r a a F a cchinii eis er Al o se n x f g S p, R gart en , F as s athal S axifr aga H ohen wa r tii S c hlem S a xifr aga d iapen sioid es E ts c hthal S axifr aga squ ar r os a o n D olo m it e r o c ks S axifr ag a B u r s er ian a o n D olo m it e r o c ks S axifr a g a tir olien s is S c hlem S em per vivu m a cu m in a tu m B ot z en S em per vivu m M etten ia n u m B o t z e n S em er vivu m d olom iticu er s p m Pu st thal, Fas at hal Ga liu m m a r ga r ita ceu m Lan d r o Cir siu m ﬁss u m P u s t er thal

’ Cir siu m H au ss m a n m B o t z en Cir siu m heter ophylloid es P u s ter t hal 19 2 9 1 T HE D OLOMITES

Cir siu m P u ster ia eu m P u st erthal C ir siu m spin os sim oid es P u st er thal Cir siu m tir alen se S ext enthal Cir s iu m tr yphilin u m P u st er thal Hier aoiu m Lagg er i F as s athal ‘ Hier aciu m a b scon d itu m P uSt er th al

Hier aciu m Tr achs elia n u m Pu st er t hal Hier aciu m E pim ed iu m P u st ert hal H ier aciu m fu ligin a tu m P us t er thal Hier aciu m K er n er i P u st er thal

Hier a ciu m n othu m P u st er thal

Ca m an u la IMor ettia n a F as s athal Fle m h p , ist al C am pan u la H a u ssm a n n i Se is er Alp A n d r os ace ob tu sifolia x la ctea S eiser Alp P r im u la tir olien s is on D olo m ite gener ally S old a nella Ga u d er i S ex tenthal P ed icu lar is elongata Am pe z zo t hal P ed icu la r is H a equ eti Val S u g an a A lnu s c or ylifolia P u ste r thal S alix r etu sioid es S ex tenthal E r ythr on iu m d en s - ca n is V al S u gama C ar ex r igid a S c hlem Car ex or nithopod ioid es S chler n A vena lu cid a Fas s athal K oeler ia hir s u ta S ehl em F es tuc a B r eu nia F ass at hal

ood i l b ell t W s a g a a S c hl em , S ex te n hal

29 2

THE D OLOMITES

Dolom ite Distr ict , to which the reader may be referred for fuller details than can be given here . — It was in 182 2 according to Mr Churchill that Von Buch ﬁrst dire cted attention to the

o f Dolomites of South Tyrol . In a series letters he propounded the theory that these moun

o f tains were volcanic origin , and had been con verted from carbonate of lime into dolomite by

o f the vapour magnesia , evolved from the molten volcanic rocks below , and penetrating the limestone ab ove . This led to aﬁ ea t deal o f wa n dis discussion , but the theory s ﬁ ally

o f posed by the chemists , who Showed that it was practically impossible for magnesia to be f produced in a state o vapour .

’ Baron Richthofen s hypothesis , on the other

of hand , has late years been accepted by lead ing geologists , and may be said to hold the

ﬁeld at present , though , as we have said ,

a s nothing is yet deﬁnitely proved . Brieﬂy

’ : stated , Richthofen s theory is this The

Schler n , he says“(taking that mountain as a typical example) , is a coral reef, and the entire 2 94 THE C OR A L REEF THEO R Y formation o f S chler n Dolom ite has in like ” manner originated through animal activity . f This seems , at ﬁrst sight , a su ﬁciently startling

Mr theory , and , as Churchill remarks , offers ample room and verge enough to the

o n flights of imagination . When e is first con fronted with these extraordinary masses o f rock it would seem much more in accordance with the fitness o f things to suppose that they were due to some mighty volcanic upheaval than that they are the result o f long ages o f w patient activity ; at the same time , ho ever,

' it must be admitted that the Co r al Reef theory o f o n e origin is a fascinating , and is , moreover , supported by certain incontestable facts . Churchill brieﬂy summarises these as follows : The following are some o f the facts to which Richthofen calls attention in support o f Schler n his hypothesis , taking the as the

for . a subject illustration First , its form as

o n mass , falling away steeply all Sides ; its isolation from Similar masses in the neighbour hood ; the improbability o f such a form being

o f —su the result denudation , as involving p 2 9 5 T HE D OLOMITES

Dolom ite Distr ict , to which the reader may be referred for fuller details than can be given here . — It was in 182 2 according to Mr Churchill that Von Buch ﬁrst directed attention to the

Dolomites o f South Tyrol . In a series of letters he propounded the theory that these moun

o f c on tains were volcanic origin , and had been verted from carbonate o f lime into dolomite by

o f the vapour magnesia , evolved from the molten volcanic rocks below , and penetrating the limestone abo ve . This led to agr ea t deal o f i n dis d scussion , but the theory was ﬁ ally

o f posed by the chemists , who Showed that it was practically impossible for magnesia to be produced in a state of vapour .

’ Baron Richthofen s hypothesis , on the other

o f hand , has late years been accepted by lead ing geologists , and may be said to hold the

ﬁeld at present , though , as we have said ,

a s nothing is yet deﬁnitely proved . Brieﬂy

’ i : stated , R chthofen s theory is this The ” Schler n , he says“(taking that mountain as a typical example) , is a coral reef, and the entire 2 94

T HE D OLOMITE S

S chlem Lan kofel posing , for instance , the and g — had ever been a continuous deposit too great

o ne a destruction in direction , and too com

lete p a protection from denudation in another . Then the undisturbed beds upon which the

S chler n rests , and the equally undisturbed n Raibl beds upo its summit , imply that the f intermediate Dolomite has su fered , Since its deposit , no considerable mechanical disturb ance . The unequal thickness of the different

to o d ir ec masses , , points strongly in the same

o f e m tion . The Dolomite the S hle and of the Sella plateau could never have been higher than at present , covered as it is in both with Raibl beds ; while the upper portions o f the

o f m or e lo t Dolomite the f y Rosengarten , Lang kofel and Mar m olata have been left exposed di ” to denu ng action .

o f Further, the fossil contents the Raibl beds offer a strong similarity to those now in process of formation on the lee Side of the — present coral reefs in the Paciﬁc and

O on Indian ceans , and the Australian coast line There are to be masses o f coral 2 96found

THE D OLOMITES

deposit o f the Raibl beds . Evidence derived from other deposits Shows that during this period the district was undergoing a gradual

Slow depression , and that no violent catas t1 — 0phe occurred . Now the Raibl beds c on “ n o f shallow — taining fau a a sea are found , not

u o f S chler n only on the s mmit the , and of the lower line o f precipices o f the Sella and Guer d enazza o u on plateaus , but als in two patches p the Tu M ﬁat the foot of these assives , thousands o f feet below . These great differences of eleva tion in an undisturbed bed at very Short dis f tances would , Richthofen argues , be di ﬁcult to explain without the supposition of reef ” a building cor ls . The main facts in support of Richthofen ’ s

- o f theory , then , are these the isolation these mountains ; the presence o f marine deposits

Similar to. those found in existing Coral Reefs ; the absence o f deep-sea deposits ; the absence o f any trace of volcanic origin ; the peculiarity o f their forms ; their lines o f curvature ; and the evidences of how the Dolomites must have been

on o f built up lower original beds other rock . 298 PRED A Z Z O

Fassathal Predazzo , in the , has been de scribed as classic ground for the mineralogist .

o n It is stated , good authority , that such a variety o f igneous rocks within a compara tively narrow compass can hardly be found E elsewhere in urope , and this quiet little village was apparently once , long ages ago , the very focus o f volcanic eruption . Here there must

r once have been a g eat eruptive centre , which — broke ou t again and again each time throwing

o f : up a different kind rock syenite , tourmaline

r or h g anite , uralite porphyry , melaphyr , p p y rite and the unique syenite porphyry , unknown elsewhere .

The oldest igneous rock , says Churchill in his chapter o n The Physical Description ” o f the Dolomites already referred to , is a peculiar kind of syenite , which has penetrated

- throughthe deep seatedandolder red porphyry , and overspread the inner borders o f the su r rounding lower trias beds . At a later date followed tourmaline granite , breaking through

on o f im the syenite the east Side the crater, mediately behind Predazzo , and overlying it . 2 99 T HE D OLOMITES In this rock tourmaline takes the place of

c mi a . Higher up on the eastern Slopes lies a d rock of still later ate , nearly allied to mela

h r of p y , which , as containing crystals uralite , Richthofen distinguishes by the name o f O Uralite porphyry . f subsequent date to these is a very dark melaphyr, which Shows itself as a dyke breaking through the granite ,

the o f and then , ascending to surface the older

r e uptive rocks , spreads far and wide , over their upper limits of outﬂow , into all the three crescentic Spaces formed b y t he curves of the

o f beds of the lower trias . Fully one half

M M - o f onte ulatto , to the north east Predazzo , consists of it . Finally, penetrating the

o syenite , and then the melaphyr , are veins f

o f two other kinds rock , called porphyrite and — w syenite porphyry , the latter not kno n to occur in any other locality— remarkable as ” possessing very large crystals o f orthoclase .

- According to the generally accepted theory , after the main phase of eruptive activity in al this region had ceased , the slow upheav of the land also came to an end and a gradual 300

T H E D OLOMITES

Lan ko fel the S g and ella groups, in external Th v . e appearance at all e ents fact , however, that the latter is merely overlaid with later beds is sufﬁcient to reconcile the apparent dis c r epancy and allow us to put the two into the same class . C hurchill sums up the matter as follows , and we may very well conclude this chapter with his words : The Dolomites of the future will probably have to be sought for in the varied coral regions o f the Paciﬁc and

O h- of Indian ceans , and on the nort east coast

Australia . Let us indulge a hope that the elevating action may be rapid enough to save their reefs from the ﬁerce ordeal they must pass

n through o their way upwards to light and air . Leaving the breakers to dash themselves vainly at their feet , they will then display to a distant posterity their manifold bosses , walls, plateaus and pinnacles o f j agged rock ; pro bably as far exceeding in weird grandeur the Dolomites of South Tyrol as these alr eady exc el ” in that characteristic their Alpine neighbours .

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net . Conr ad ( J os eph) . T HE MI RROR OF E A : Me m or ie s an d I m e i pr ss o ns . Dowd en FURTHER STUDIE S I N Thi r d E d i ti on . Cr . 800. 63 . HE E T A B . Cr 8 PR Y R OOK . 00 . li 'e W B T H E A I N Coo d g ( . . ) LPS : Dr iver S E M ( . S R O N S O N A URE A ND HI T . I u s tr a te S ORY ll d . SU BJECT S CONNECTED WITH THE D em 800. s . 6d . ne t . . y 7 E A ME OLD T T T. Cr 0 S N . 80 . 63 . ‘ Cor r evon I . A I E F A . Tr an s ( L) LP N LOR Du m a s (Alex a nd r e) . THE CRIMES OF a nd n a r ed b E W a te d e g . . CLA YF ORT H . THE BORG IA S A ND THE R l l y O S . With

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' Flt’ th H C E H (C ROMW LL S ARMY : Graham e (Kenneth). T E WIN D IN is to r o f the E n is h So d ie r d u r in t he HE T l LLO W . i h A H y g l l g W S Ill u s tr a te d . S x t Civ1l a r s , t he Co m m o nwe a th a n d t he E d z W l , t ion. Cr . 81/o.

r o te c to r a te . u s t r a te d . S ec P Ill ond E d ztzon .

C r . 6 1. G ran er ( Frank ) . HI S TORICAL SOCI 0 LgG Y T X - OO K ‘ A E T B o r P o u r xc s . S he ! H . T H E E C Fl ( A . P r 81/0 . n t R UBLI AN C . 3s . 6d . e .

R D E E. Cr T A ITION IN UROP . n e t . T H Grew ( Edwin S ha r e ) . E GROWTH O F E ﬂ s u t ra te d . C r . 800 . Or T ’ A PLAN T l . Flt z Ge r ald (Edward) . HE RUBA IYAT Gr lmn W H a nd M n . r inte d fr m ( . ) l c hln tl . C OF OMAR KHAYYAM P o all . t he F1ft h a nd as t i 1 W T H E E E vsN I N3 l Ed t o u . 1t h a Co m LIF OF OB T B O R R ' R llu s t r a te m e n ta r b . SO a nd a io r a h l d . S econ d E d r t ron . D em 8z w. y H M BAT N , B g p y

1 2 3 . d . ic a n tr o o c t1o n b E . D o s s Cr 6 n et . l I y . R . . H S S EA G S ale ( J . FAMOU FI HT ' - u x A . E P P o m I E . m S L S r o T 5 1111411 s tr a t ( au u e d . Fl CONOMIC RINC L S A AMI . Ill

e m 3 6d . ne y 1 . t. C r . 80 0 . 63 . n e t . 6 MET HUEN AND COMP A NY LI MITED

“ ' H l H THE C E H l th W . a l ( . AN I NT HISTORY o dswor ( A HISTORY OF

T HE E E THE E G . I n F ou r Volu m es OF N AR AST FROM N LISH LAW .

E ES E D T HE P ER Vols . L I L 111. D em 819 0. E ac h 6d ARLI T P RIO TO , , y . V EE E u s S IAN IN ASION OF GR C . Ill t r a te d . D emy 159. ne t . Holla nd (Clive) . TYROL AND ITS PE E . u stra te d . D em 81/ 0.1: H H H 0. 1 6d . annay A S ORT ISTORY—OF OPL Ill y T H E V . Vo l. I . 12 1 1688. ROYAL NA Y , 7 — HE E H E T G . V l. . 168 181 . D m E ach u str ated o e . II , 9 5 y B L IANS AT OM Ill

D em r os . 6d . n et . 6d . net . 7s . y

r o Cha r l s THE H ur h E. L . E Z THE Ba r ( e G . ) AUTOCAR orsb g ( LOR N O th M G CE OR R O K a s . I n o u r RgAD B O . Wi p F MA NIFI NT : AND FL ENCE IN HE

. OL AGE. u s tra te S V l u m er Cr . E ac h 6d . n et G d . econd E d ition o . DEN Ill — ' V . L So ur it 80 0. n et . o l OF THE THAMES . — RL D . OO : RR T V A N CR T Vo l. II NORTH AND SOUTH WALES WAT A NA A I E A I

S L IC I S M. th ans. S econd E d i S . r . AND WE T MID AND Pl tion. C —E o Lt E Vol. III . AST AN A AND AS T MID “Wi HE FE V L L S . T . I AND — LI OF SA ONARO A llus l . I V T r m E N tr ate d . Cr . n et. Vo . NORTH OF NGLA D AND SOUTH OF SCOTLAND . e ) . I lu Hosie (Al x ander MANCHURIA . l s a t e d d i H i TH E E tr ed . S con E tion . D em 6d . arr s ( Frank ) . WOM N OF y

E E E D em 800 . 6 n et . net . SHAK SP AR . y d . H W E E ’ H ll Ar thur T HE E u ( . D assa ( ) . LIF OF dson A SH PH R S E E : PR SS O S or T HE OU LT . lll s a D em 80 0. NAPOL ON u tr ted . y LIF IM E I N S TH WI

. S R D OW S . I us tr a te d s 6d . Thir d E d 7 ne t . HI E N ll i m 0 tion . D e y 80 . 6d . net . H W D AND eadley (F . . ) ARWINISM

DE . d i Hum b h MO RN SOCIALISM S econd E tion . reys (Jo n PROPOR C 1 RE E E r . 81 0. 3 . ne t. Cr . 5 TI NAL PR S NTATION .

n et .

H M Stur . GE GE enderson ( . g e) OR E E D : VE E Hu tchi (H c e G . ) THE NEW M R ITH NO LIST, PO T, nson ora E E . ith a ortr ai S e d E . u str ate d. F ou r th E d itio n. R FORM R W P t. con FOR ST Ill

E d ition . Cr . 63 . Cr .

HE . E B utton E T C E Henley (W NGLISH LYRICS : ( dward). ITI S OF A I C CE P E S di P u s tra te d . F ou r th E dition . d . HAU R TO O . econ E tion AIN Ill gr ‘S8 Cr . 6d. net . T HE T ES C U . u s I I OF B I Ill tr ate d . ' M R A

ll o F o u r th E d ition . Cr Hi (Ge g e Fr an c is) . ONE HUND RED . MA r ‘' HE E M STE PIECES T D . u s OF SCULPTURE. CITI S OF LO BAR Y Ill Illus tra te d . D em tra te d . C r . y 1019. 6d . net . FLORE NCE A ND NORTHER N TUS Hi G . L wi ) . D C H G E ( . nd e s AYS IN CORNWALL AN Y W I T N O A Illu strate d . u s tr a te d . Thir d E d ition . C r . S econd E d it on . Cr . Ill 6s . i E A A ND E C SI N SOUTH RN TUS ANY. H h u T THE HE L. ( . u s tr ate d . S econd E di ) tion . r . ob o se T ORY OF Ill C 69 . WLE O GE . D em 6d . n e VE CE A ND VE E . y t. us tr a e N NI N TIA Ill t d .

Cr . 8110. H E ( . A . ob on J E . tr a e s I T TIO L u s t d. Thir d E d ition . Cr N RNA NA ROM Ill . DE . A N PPL C T O o r E CO O C RA A I A I N N MI 80 0. 6 1.

OR . Cr . 8”o. THE Y 6d . n”e 1 C E E OUNTRY WALKS ABOUT FLOR NC . P E VE AN U R S P ? N Y u s tra te d . S e ond d i I c E tion . ROBL M OF O RTY I Q ll F ca . O US R L CO O O I p 3 INT THE IND T IA NDITI N F THE 5 . n e t .

OOR . S even th E d iti on . Cr . 810 0 . P 2s . 6d . i IN UNKNOWN TUSCANY. W th No tes THE P E THE U N b L WOO L . ustr ate R O B L M OF y WI IAM HEY D Ill d . S econd E ED : A N E U R P NQ Y AN AN E d ition . D em 5 . 6d . “ M LOY I D y 7 n E c o o m c O I . F th E di L C tion . P Y if Cr . Bo o. THE WY E. I BOOK OF ll us tr ated . éNi A D em y 8170. 6d . ne t Hodg son (Mr s HOW TO IDE TIF N Y I H i . A D r a m ati k . D OLD E bsen ( enr ) BR N A c C E CE A us HIN S POR L IN . Ill oe m r a ns a ted b LL LSO P , T l y WI IAM WI N. t r ated . Thir d E d iti on P os t F ou r th E d ition . Cr . 80 0. 6d . Hold i h e (Sir T. H ) THE D I W R . I C IN IAN ng e ( ) CHR STIAN MYSTI ISM. B RD E D 188 — , 0 1 00 . u s trated he am n e RLAN 9 Ill . B pto L ct ur es o f S econ d S econd Ed i tion. D em y 6d . n et. a n d he a er E d i i C p t on. Cr . ne t .

8 METHUEN AND COMPANY LI MITED

THE F T OW i t e B oo M ete r linck M ur ic e THE B E RIENDLY N A L t l k a ( a ) . LU for the r ane. S ix th E dition. F ed . I D U b ) A FAIRY PLAY IN SIx ACTS . d s . I n d ia P a er s . 6 . TraiI slate d b LEX R X R E S p , 7 y A ANDE TEI EI A D ND I E i h M ' ' ESIDE A S S . S t AT I OS . a FIR F e . 87/o. D echle E es s . 6d . UN H N x t dg . 3

i d . s d it on F e . ne t . A E ls o F ea . lo h r s . ne t . An ) 5 t C t ,

A ND ED . S ix h E i i TE d o n i u str a e d in co our b F . L CHARAC R COM Y t t , ll t l y CAY EY

d i ion . F ed . B E t O B SO Is a s o u is he d . r . to G l C . i t R IN N , l p bl 4 T. hoi o f THE GENTL ST AR ce t n n e . Of h v A C o) . o . t t e abo e boo k Twen ty e e rs b En e r a inin and s . S even h nIne Ed i ions I n all have b e e L tt y t t g H t t n is sued . E dition . F ca D E E L N R E MARY MAG AL N . A P AY I TH E

H E T . Thir d E di ion . . T E S CON POS t ACTS Tr an s la ted b y ALEXANDER TEI XEIRA ’ F ed . 80 0. . MAT r hir d T E di ion . ed . } “ DE o s . t F ) I E VA ET : F HER F T I Dechle E d es s . 6d . net Also Eco IN IN R Y A EMININE g 3 . n h E d i OR RA GA LLERY. S i ion . I s . n et P T IT xt t .

F ea . s . DE r ans b X t S ATH . T la te d y ALE ANDER D LL OF ME N . GOO : E X R E OS . F r th E d iti COMPANY A RA Y T I EI A D MATT ou on .

S econd E d i ion . F ea . F . 6 t t m } 3s . d . net . F i h ONE DAY A ND OTHER. f t AN ' a ha ﬂ y ( . S OF E i F ed . E d tion . } J A HI TORY GYPT

DE T HE E D S . F NEW F ou r h E d ition . OLD LAMPS . t UN R PTOL MAIC YNA TY u s r a ed. Cr . 8110. 63 . a 7/o . s . ll F e t . 8 S O I t t ’ R LIS TE NE R S E . AN OB LI QU E NAR LUR al l n d M t a (F. O C O . N in h E d i ion F ea . s . RATION t t . t S 5 R MAN AN N ’ w N T HE OF ENG - CHU CH OVER BEME RT ON S : AN EASY GOING R D . R o a l 3 . 6 LA y 7 d. . Nin h E di F . N N tion ea 80 . CHRONICLE t . t 0

s . R IL THE ES LD OF M r ett . 5 a ( ). THR HO LE DE N in d . G SI th E ition . Et a . I GI Cr . s . 6d . net. MR IN } RE L ON . 3 8710 . M r r iott h r le s S S a am a (C a ) . P I H HOLI S e e lso L b ( Char les) . A AN a d . D em 87/o . s . D AY . Illu s t r te y 7 H E OF THE T E O C HI E. L d ek k e r m. and Other s . E ES R MAN R N y ) R PTIL , u s e d . D em r os 6d . n et . B F S E S AND E Ill trat y . AMPHI IA, I H , LOW R

D E d i e d b C . C HO T . t y ] . CUNNING T HE FE A ND R A A Mar r iott (J. LI . us r a ed . D em xo s . 6d . net HAM Ill t t y , ES OF S V SC TIM LUCIU CARY, I OUNT

u s r e d . S econd E d ztw n F KL D . ll a THE X AND AL AN I t t Ly d ek k er O ITS 3 D em y 7 . 6d . net . K RED u s ra ed . Cr . . I ND . Ill t t 63 SEA FE NEL Ma seﬁeld (John) . LI IN L r . AND u l o E us r a e d . Cr Mac a ay ( d) CRITICAL SON S TIM . Ill t t . RICAL E SS S . Ed e d b F. HISTO AY it y y 6d n e ’ O E. Thr ee Volu m es . Cr GU . C . AI LOR S D S e e c e d and M NTA A S GARLAN . l t 183 . c d d i io Edite d . S e on E t n . Cr . 80 0. 3s . 6d .

net. T E D c Ca b e (Joseph) . H EC OF AY M ster m n C E S F E Thir d a a ( T O CHURCH O ROM . NNY N S eco d AS A E LIGIOUS TE CH E . n m s . d . E dition . D e y 7 6 ne R A R Cr . E d ition . T HE E ES S ES F E. u s MPR O ROM Ill D E D d TH E CO ITIO OF GL . tr a te d . D em y 12s . 6 . n et . N N N AN h E d i ion . Cr . 63 . A lso F ca F o u r t t p.

13 . n et . Mac car thy ( Desm ond ) and Ru s se ll 800. D ( Ag atha) . LA Y JOHN RUSSE LL : ‘ M ne (Ethel Colb u r n) . B . llu s . u s r a e d o h ay O I O R . F u r E d i A MEM I Ill t t t tion . YR N tr a te d . I n tw o volu m es . D ewy e u . 6d . t D em y xos . ne . n et .

e Cu lla g h (Fr an c is) . THE FALL OF B - L- D A D U . llu s r a e d . D em HAMI I t t y T RATIONS OF E NGLI S H CONS TIT U I os . 6d . ne t . IONAL S Cr . 8 s . 6d . n et . T HI TORY. 740 . 7

' cDou g aIl (Willlam ) . I NTROD U C AN Methu en (A. M. E D S f o OIAL S NGLAN RUIN P YCHOLOGY. D ISCUSSED IN FOURTEEN LETTERS TO A Ef/£05 . F ou r h ? Cr . 8vo s . n t 5 et . in di N h E ion . r . PROTECTIONIST . t t C B D AND D : ISTORY AND A O Y MIN A H 371. net . D F C o r S . D em 87/o r es . d E EN E ANIMI M y . 6 . Mi e s Eu st c e . FE F E FE n et . ( ) l a LI A T R LI‘ R T HE OR o r RE I NCA RNA 'I I N O O . , THE Y

Md e . Mor i Au thor o ST . E C r . 2s . 6d . ll ( f) . CATH R I NE OF S E A ND HER E THE E OF E N I NA TIM S . POW R CONC TRATION

u s r a e d . S econ d E di ion. D em H o w T o R I T . F u r h E d i Ill t t t ; ACQ UI E o t tion .

3 . d . ne t . 7 6 Cr . 8770. 3s . 6d . ne t . G ENERA L LI TE R A T U RE 9

ND ET T HE FE A L . . . Millais (J G ) . LI Petr ie (W M Flinder s) A HI S TORY

E RS OF S IR EVE E O F E . ix I S Vo tu m a . JOHN R TT GYPT Illus tr a t e d . n

I ILLAI . u s tr a e d . N ew E d ztw n . Cr . 8 . . h L S Ill t 1 m 6s eac .

em 8va. s 6d . ne t . VOL . 1. FRO S T X D y 7 . M THE I T o THE VIT H D n h d i YNASTY. S eve E ion . S OF E t t Mil ne (J . P HI TO G T L. T HE XVI IT H A RY Y VO II . AND XVI I I T H a e ‘ ND E E . llus r d . ’ D N A . U R ROMAN RUL I t t Y S I I ES F o u r th E d itio n .

C r . 8210. VOL. . XIXT H T X S S III o XXT H D YNA TIE . ‘ E D EE S OF VOL. I V. GY PT UN ER THE PTOLEMAIC ofiat (Mar y M”) Q U N LOUI A D S . . . F F h d i YNA TY P AHA Y . us r a e d . F our E ion . PRUSSIA . Ill t t t t J M VOL . V . EG P U R O A ULE Y T NDE M N . . G . C r . R R J ILNE . lus tra ed . D em MARIA THERE SA. Il t y M VO L . VI . EG P E MID DLB G S Y T IN TH E . 1os . 6d . ne t . A S - TANLEY LANE POOLE . E A N D Mone L . G . hiozz E S AND S E E I N y ( C a) . RICH R LIGION CON CI NC A NCIENT E P OVE RT Y 1 10 . Ten th a n d R evis ed . u s ra e d . C r . 87 m. , 9 GYPT Ill t t m 2s . 6d E d iti on . D e y 8 t ’ S AND E F H E E M E S F S D I r o . T ON Y I CAL ICTIONARY g YRIA GYPT, ROM T LL MA E L A RNA LE E . 1 m 9 ; S Cr . 81 0. i n D e 8 . . ne S econ d E d t zo . y 5 TT R

E Cr . as . 6d IN S URANCE VE RSU S POV RTY.

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a r i. Fir s S er ie s I vth o XI I h I N E : P A PE RS O t t D nas . TH GS THAT MATT R N P py t . y ty ' ‘ u s r a e d e d i U B C S W C RE OR OUG H I T o B E . S cond E on . Cr . 80 0 . S JE T HI H A , , Ill t t ti l D D eon s . ne t . UN D ER ISCUSSION . } 5 E GY T E an s a e r P IAN TAL S . Tr l t d f o m the Mont u e D R V ES . a r i. S e c o n d S e r ie s xvm t x ag AMATIC ALU P py , h to x x th

S econd E d tio n . F m . 8110. 1 . D r ) 5 n as t . u s a e d . C r . 80 0 6d i y y Ill t t . E D E A VE u s E S 'S GYPTIAN COR TI ART . Ill Moor h ou s e (E. H ll m ) . a a L O r s N N tr a te d . C . 3 . 6d . D . us r a LA Y HAMILTON Ill t te d . l E dition . D em 8z w. s . 6d . ne t . ) 7 Phe l ps (Ru th S KI ES ITALIAN : A ‘ LITTLE BREVIARY FOR T RA YE LLRRS IN . S AND Mor g an (C . Ll oy d) I TI CT N N . F ea . B . L u L oo he r . r . ITA Y f t s ne t . E E E . C r t o o. 1. net. EXP RI NC . 5

‘ Po llar d ( Alfr e d W . ) S H KE S PE E Nevlll (L d y Dor othy . ' A AR a ) M Y O W N F S A ND A RI O OLIO Q U S . St u d y in E S . Ed i ed b he r so n . D em A TIM t y y B ' the iblio g r a phy o f S ha k e s e s Pla s y , ne t. I sr . — l 1 r 68 . u s r a ed . F olw . a n e . 594 5 I l t t n . t

Nor way (A . PLES : PAST A ND THE NA Por te r ( G . PROGRE S S OF E . us a F o u r th E di i . PRES NT Ill tr ted . t on E T H . Ne w Ed io E d NATION A it n . it e d C r . 8z/o . b F. . RS D m 8 0 . e 0 . a r e e y W HI T y . n t . ‘’ 0 Donne E iott . E E LVE S ll ( ll ) W R WO ’ . T HE Powe r (J con nor ) . K OF r 1 . O I G C . 81 0. 53 . ne t MA N . Cr . 87 m. 6s AN ORATOR .

a . S F Om n (C . W C A HI TORY O T HE A RT OF WAR IN T HE MID DLE Pr ic e ( El ean or CARD INAL D E C E E . u s r a e d . S econd E d ES . u s r a e d . D em 8 ition. 0 0 . d . AG Ill t t y 105 . 6 RI H LI U Ill t t D em 80 0. r ot n e t . ] . 64. ne t . E NGLAND B EFOR E T H E NORMAN P r ic e (L . S HO T HI S TO OF E S . i h a s S e CO QU T W t p . cond A R RY N M POLITIC L E CO O I N E GL D E d i . D e m 87/o . . ion 10s d . t ; 6 ne t. A N MY N AN FROM A DAM S MITH TO ARNOL D ’ N BE E T . S ev en h E d ion . Cr x for M. N DB . Bo o . d ) . H OOK O F t it O A AN Ogd k RsI 0 . S i h E d io n R evis ed . xt it , C r .

A s . d . ne t Si/ 3 6 . P c r a ft W S O F B D ( A HI TORY IR S . yllus tra t e d D em . I or . 6d . ne t. . T H E y Pak e s (W C . S CI ENCE O F

H E E . I l u s tr a te d . S eco nd a nd YGI N Ra wlln s G e r tr u d e B S AND g ( . COI hea er E d i ion . e vise d b ' ' N C p t R y A. T . H O W l o I H EM l u s r a e d KNOW I l t t . N A N It I vE LL. C r 8 w z r . . . s ne t. Thir d E d on . C r B o v . 3 . iti . 6

. T HE B Par k e r ( Er ic ) OOK O F TH E Re g a n (C Tate ) T H E F ES HW T E R' A R ZOO us tr a e d . S co d d i . e n E /tio n . ll C r . I lS E S O F T H E Ii RI i I S H S E I t H I L S . ' 87 o . 6s . d u s r a e C r . 1/ 6.x. Ill t t 8 o .

Pe r s S ir Ed win . E A N D ITS T HE a ) TURK Y Reid (Ar c hd a ll) . LAWS O F H ER E P EO LE . S eco n d E di o . / n D em 8I o . D I . S econ d E d o n / ti y n . D e 87 m o n . TY iti y . 6d . n . ne t . I ne t . I o METHU EN AND COMPA NY LI MI TED

’ ’ Rob er t son . Gr nt) . S E E S G LF DO S AND D (C a L CT TAT O ONT S . E S S E S A ND D C E S ou h d F r t E i ion . F ca . 8710. I 3 . net UT —, CA , O UM NT , t p . d e t. 166 0 1894. D em y Sve . I o3 . 6 n S teve n s n R THE E E E GL D U DE TH E H OVE o ( . L TT RS OF N AN N R AN R BE EV S S E S . Ed i e . u s r a e S econd E d i on D em d IANS Ill t t d. it y RO RT LOUI T N ON t b Sir S V d y NEY OL N . A N ew a nd E u 8710. 103 . 6 . n e t. ID C I a ed E d itzon in ou r l l f f vo u m es . Thir d F OLD F E . E ion . F 034 Roe r ed . 8710 . E ac h 3 . L ea her ( OAK URNITUR t } 5 t ,

D em 8710. ea ch 3 . net . Illu s tr a te S econd E dition . y 5

103 . 6d . n et . S teve F ns (M I . ROM SARANAC ‘ AN D 0 T H Ry n ( P . F S T L FE ? R ES S AND BE D a TUAR I T MA Q A YON . E O L S OR e in e w S S C . us ter s ri e B n b M . r s . MANN R : A IA HI T Y Ill L t tt y M I . STEVEN 0 d SO g n — t ra te d em v . I . . n et ur i I 88 . D 8 O3 6 . N 88. us r a e d . Cr g . y 7 Ill t t 8710. ”

St . Fr nc is of As sisi T HE E a . LITTL LE T E RS F S 13 1- i T ROM AMOA, 9 95. Ed te d F E S OF T HE S and LOW GLO IOU ar ran e d b . B LFOUR g . u s R R y M A . Ill ES S E A N D OF HI S F S . , I tr a ted . S econd E d z z M R R AR t on C r . 8710. 63 . ne t. D one in o E n is h wi h o es b LL t g l , t N t y WI IAM

WOO . u r a e d . em 8710 . 3 . n et PP StO . D HEY D Ill s t t D y 5 . (Ver non F EVELOPME NT A ND D V NE P R OSE . Cr . 8710 . 3 I I P 5 . ki . . E LD S ( Mu nr ol . a H H R GINA net . h T ir d E d i ion . F ca . 8710 2 3 . 6d . n e t f . t .

Str e a tfeild It. A . DE N E D S . F ca 8va. S GI L I US I p. MO R MU IC R NA N R A AND M ( US S . u s d . r a e d . S 6 . et ec n 23 . n CIA Ill t t o d

E d i ion . em D 8710. 3 . 6d . n et t y 7 .

d e . . E E San m an ( G A M TT RNICH . Sw nton (E. W . ) F A ND s r a e d . m 03 . e llu D e y 8710. 1 . 6d n t . a UNGI HOW I t t E . u s r a ed . Cr . 8v TO KNOW TH M Ill t t 0.

Sc hld P OWitz Phi i BBE . us 63 . net . ( l p). RU R Ill r a t ted . D em y 8v0. 103 . 6d . ne t . S e s . T HE F E V ‘ ym (J R NCH RE O Ed S LUTION . S econd E d i S e ou s m u n H tion . Cr . 71 . S 8 0. 2 3 6d l ( d) TOMMY MIT . .

S . u s r a e d E lev h ANIMAL Ill t t . en t E d i T b or M r r et B . THE S z a ( a g a ) I TS I on . F ea . SW . 6d . t t 23 . A N N ' . u s r a e d . F Cd . 8710. 3 . 6d . n S S E RT Ill t t f 3 et . TOMMY MITH OTH R ANIMALS . u s r a e d . F i h E d ztzon ll f F eet) . 80 0. I t t t l r . n E E E Ta o A E ) S OF E . d y L M NT M TA 6 . f S s CS . S econ d E d ition . D e m ' y 8710. S S E S . u s r a ed . ll Cr . 8710. 63 . J CK C 103 . 6d n e A IN T I t t t . Shak e s ea r e (Willi m ) a T y or (Mr s . B si ) r r iet a l a l (Ha Osg ood ) . g R F0 S 162 1 2 ' OLIO , 3 ; 63 ; 1664 AP NE SE J ARDENS . u s r a e d GA Ill t t . 1 68 E a ch . t r 5 £4 43 ne , o a c o m le e se t p Cr . to . t , 4 2 13 . net . £ I 2 12 3 . n e THE E S OF I PO M WILL AM S HAKE Thib au de au (A . BONAPARTE AND S E E . i h an n r o d u i T HE C S P AR W t I t c t on and N o te s ON ULAT Tr an sla te d a n d b ORG . D em 8710. Ed i e d b . . FOR S UE y E E YN AM B uc h y TE C . u s r a e d G “ W DH y t G K Ill t t . r a m . r ots. 6d em 871 03 D y 0. 1 . 6d . net .

She e Pe r c B s sho T HE E Thom s ( E w r ) . E MAE . ll y ( y ) . PO S a d a d MAURIC M E R OF E BYS HE S E E i . us r a ed . S ec on d E d i ion P RCY H LL Y . W th T LINCK Ill t t t . - Cr . 8710. 3 . n et a n I nt r o d u c tio n b y A . CLUTTON BROC IC a nd 5 .

n o e s b . D . LOC OCK . Two Vo lu m s t y C e . w Tho n f on (Fr ncis) . S E L E C E D D 8710 . 2 13 . t a T e y n e . é g' oOF F S RANCI THOMPS ON . i h a Bio r a hica o e b LFR Slad en ou g la s ). SICILY : The New W t g p l N t y WI ID e r g LL . i h a or r a i I n ho r n o av . Wi t eso r t Illu s tr a te d . S econ d E d ition MEYNE W t P t t P t g u r e S even h E d iti on . F ca . 871 r . 710. 3 0 . 3 . n et C 8 5 . n et . t f 5 .

iie st on r D Sm ith (Ad am ) . T HE WEALTH OF T (Ma y AILY STRE NGTH FOR D N S . Edi e d b E DW EEDS . N ine een h E d i NATION t y IN CANNAN. AILY t t d ion Me iu m 167170 . . w o t . 2 3 6d Volu m . n T er . D s . et . emy va 2 I 3 . n et . L a nzh

3 h m 3 6d . n et . s 3 . Al o an e ditio n in su per ior - S m ith G . . GE M S ( er b er t) ES in d in 63 . H TON b g , A ND E D S C VE C C T H E S G D OF E TH IR I TIN TI HARA T R O N H O L H O P . E S . u s r a e d . C r . 8710. 63 . ne t. Mediu m 167110 . . 23 d . T R Ill t t 6 net .

’ S ne F . . B O F EX ( . o b eo a t D E E ll J ) A OOK MOOR T ﬂ g e ). ANT ALIGHI RI u s r a e d . Cr . 871o 63 . S F A ND OR KS i h Ill t t I LI E W . W t 16 Illu s tr a T H E S S OF L GL O D E D . io ns. F ou r h a nd E la d E d i n r e tion . CU TOM N AN t t g Cr .

u s r a e d . Cr . SW . 63 Ill t t . 8710. 53 . net .

I 2 METH U EN AND COMPANY LI MITED

F MID HI W w r th THE EM . ith Wood (Slr Evel n) . ROM S P or ds o PO S W u s an n r od u c io n and o e s b WE N O fy D MARS HAL . Ill I t t N t y NO LL h ee Volu m es . D m ]: d i . em 1 3 d . . MIT H . I n T r e tr ﬁfd. F f t E tzon D y 81 0. 7 . 6 C S y

s 3 . t . ne t . A ls o F ca . Bo o . I . 15 ne TH E REVOLT I N H I ND USTAN ( 1857

I t . S econd E d ztzon Cr 8110. llus rated . Ye at s V J A BOOK OF I RI SH ’

E g t r d E d ztion Cr . 800. s . 6d . Woo W Bir k b eek and E m on s V RS Th . 3 d ). d d A HI T OF THE (Col. S ORY C IVI L WA R I N TH E UN ITE D STATE S (186 1 With a n I ntr od u ctio n Wi h 2 Ma s b y SPE NSE R WI LK I NSON . t 4 p

d a ns h E d ztzon s8120. a n Pl . T i r d D em;

m s . 6d . n et .

— PART I I A S ELECTION OF S ERIES, .

Ancient Cities .

. W DLE. ener l itor B . C . A N G a Ed , I

om . Cr So c 3 . 6d . net cock w h . . 4

H. NEW and o ther r t sts. With Illustr atio ns b y E . , A i

M. . i iam s on N UR H . . fr d ar ve . E I B BRIST OL. Al e H y D G G W ll I C N . E . a nse S m s on. Co x . y C A NTE RBURY . C . L N OL M l p H E B . T . u d en . B . A . ind e . C H EST E R . W l S R WS URY A WELL and A T NB R . T . . Ho m es . D B I A. . Fi z a r ick. GL O S S . U L N . O t p t S S U Y l

’ k The Antiquary s Boo s.

G ene l itor . CHARLE COX. ra Ed , J S

D s . 6d . net ed olz volu m e. emy 800 . 7

llus t ons With Nu m er ous I tra i .

MA N AND MA NORIAL REC R H AND FA E A T I U IT IES . S T E 6 . N 0 7 , ARCH/8 01. LS Q OR O D Nathaniel . one . S econd E d itio n u nr o . J R . M H

. ME IE A H IT A or E A T H . e n V N N BE o r E A N THE . anon . av D L O L L D E . LLS NGL D , C J J R SP S G , i o ha ar a . S econd E d it on . R t M y Cl y

E A THE e r e r . OLD E I H IN T UME NT S o r M C B A E o r . I . R SS S NGL ND , H b t W NGL S S R US d di F W. Ga in . S econd E dition S econ E tion . . M ac klin . lp I N A A A ND H I T I A LD E I H I BRA R e am . CE LT I C ART P G N C R S N O NGL S L IE S . J s Hu tt

. om i e n . S econd E d i ion . OLD SE ICE B or T HE E H T I ME S . J R lly All t RV OOKS NGLI S C H RCH . hris o her or d swor C A T E AND WA E T WN or EN A N p h, and S L S LL D O S GL D , U C t W t en Little hale s . S e E d z H r cond t zon . HE A ar ve . y T . . H y

D ME A I N UE T T HE d B A I H IF E I N ME IE VA E A ND . . o hu s a ar D L L d . O SD Y Q S , A lp ll P R S L NG o t Gas u e . Thir d E di tion . E I H C H H F IT E . . x q NGL S URC URN UR J C . Co Abb t - an d A . ar ve . S ec ond E dition . A I H E I T ER or E A N T H y P R S R G S S NGL D , HE. E I H C T ME . Fr o m r e his or ic im e s NGL S OS U P t T Cox. t o the E nd o f the Ei h e en h n M T H H T g t t Ce tur y . RE AI NS o r E PRE I S ORI C AG E I N

Ge or e inch. E A ND . B . C. A . ind S econd g Cl N L W le. G ' E I H M A T I C I FE . G o a s u e E d itzon . NGL S ON S L Abb t q t. F o u r th E d ztzon R MA E RA I N B I T AI N T HE . . ar d . O N R , J W - E I H E A . . ar ve B o NGL S S LS J H y lo m . ROMA NO BR IT I SH BU I LD I NGS AND E A RT H - E As A N H I I C C F T AL N . IE E . . OLK LOR S OR C S WORKS J War d . S ir . I. Gom m e . R A F E T Orr E D N LA N T . G HE . C. OY L OR S S G , J I A ND C M A NIES or N TH x G LDS O P LONDO , E . C o . Ge or e nwin. SHRI E or BRIT I H AI N . a T . W . g U N S S S S J . C ll G ENERAL LITERATURE

Th d hak s ar e Ar en S e pe e .

6d et ac volu m e. 25 . . n e /z D emy SW .

An ition o f h k s e r in sin le Pla s e ch e ite with a fu ll I ntr o uc ti o n ed S a e p a e g y a d d d ,

T extu N o tes and a o m m en tar a t the fo o t o f the a e . al , C y p g

’

A WE T HA T E W ME A E MEA E . LL S LL NDS E LL . SUR POR SUR M HA T r VE I E T H A T N A ND C E A T A E o E . N O Y L OP R . RC N N C , W . ME WI E O P I H C M E I E T E. Y B L N RRY V S NDSOR , ' C ME E T HE. MI MME N I HT D E A M A . O DY OP RRORS, DS R S R , ' U G

HAM ET . Tl ur d E d i i on T HE . L t . O LLO

I E A E I E . J‘UL US CA S R . P R CL S I HE I v PT 1 ME AND I E T . K NG NRY . . . RO O JUL

I HE V . T A MI OF T H E H E T H E . K NG NRY NG S R W,

I H E VI P T . I . T E M E T T HE . K NG NRY . P S , H I I E VI P T I . T I M A T H E . K NG NRY . . ON OP NS H E I A I VI . P I I T T I . K NG NRY T . I. US NDRON CUS

I E AR . T I I ‘K NG L RO LUS A ND C R E SS D A . I I HA Two E T E ME I I . VE A T HE . K NG R C RD G N L N OP RON ,

I I H A I I I . T H N I H K NG R C RD WELFT G T .

I F E A N D D E A T H I H THE . V E A ND A I . L OR K NG JO N, NUS DON S ' ' ‘ ’ E LA ROUR S T WI T E T A E T HE. LOV S LOS . N R S L , ’ ‘ MA C B E I H.

Classics of Ar t .

R H LA NG te b D . . . Edi d y . J w I .

' ' ' / r u llu str atzon r ’ d al S lVzt/i n u m e o s I . IVz e Roy va.

T H E ART r HE E E e r s . MI HE A E e . v H . B . a . ra d D a s . 12 5 . d o T . 6 GR KS W lt C L NG LO G l S ig .

r es . 6d . ne t . n e t .

r D i . T H E A RT T HE MA . H B . a e r s . E . Ed wa d on 2 s ne t OR RO NS . W lt RUB NS ll , 5 .

A H . O é . z . d . n A E . A . I s 6 e t . ne t. R P L P pp ’ A I . . E . A F I r e E M E T HI . M . . C H D H . ur s . z 6d . n t . B A T A . ind R N t . ‘R R ND S C NGS H D A T E . a u d r u t tw e ll. s n et . S I R T H MA A E E . i ON LLO M C I s . O S L WR NC S r Walte r

F E A I r n o . n et . LOR E NT I N SCULPT ORS O R T HE R E N S A m s tr o ng . i i A E . he m d b T IT I A ha r e s c s 1 s r a ns a e d . e . . n et . S NC W l l B o e . T l t y N C l R k tt 5

es s ie a ne s . 123 . d . n t . T I T ET T . E ve n a r c 6 e h hi i s . 1 3 J H y N OR O ly M P ll pp 5 .

E E M E . h B ham e r ain. n et. G ORG RO N Y Ar t u r . C b l ’

d . E T H . ne t T E E A ND D A . . I zs 6 . URN R S SK C S R W I NGS A

d FI BE RG 2 5 . 6d . n et S d d i i H I A A I . e r d . D avie s S econ N 1 . econ E o a . n . G RL ND O G l S . t

d i io o VE LA Z UE z. A . d e B er u e e E n . 105 . 6d . os . 6d . n e t t Q t I .

The Com ple te Ser ies .

l l u st a ted . D ent 8va F u ly I l r y . M H B I I A A E . ha r e s T H E C M E T E T A I E E . D T E C M ET E . O PL LL RD PL Y R C l O PL OUN N R G .

r a ha m . 5 n e t . S o d io 03 . 6d . n et . x . ec n E d i n . Ro be r ts . 1 Ab 5 t

in . T H E CO M L E T E COO . ilia n hi l g L W t T HE C M ET E A MA . . e hm P K . O PL O RS N R C L a n n. s . 6d . n et . 7 10s . 6d . n et .

I E T E er E . T H E CO MPLE T E CR CK R . Alb t T H E C M E T H T A E HE . h i O PL P O O R P R . R C ild t S econd E d io n . K ni ht . n e . t G Ba e . 103 . 6d . ne t . F o u r l y h E d ion . O E F H T E ha r e s ic h y t it T HE MPLE T OX UN R . C l R

d n t n d d i o n . T HE C M E T E FOOT B A LLII R a r d so n . 12 3 . 6 . e . S eco E T H E ti O PL RUGBY , ON

N W Z E A D T M. D al O L ar ar d o n. E A E . a he r T HE CO MPLET E G P E R . H ry V L N SYS G l a nd W e d i . S ad . 6d e S o OI . 6d . n et Tw e h E io n . . n t . ec n d E d i i I . on lf t t J t t . - T H E C O M LET E H OC E PLA E . E u s a ce P K Y Y R t HE C M ET E H T . T . e as T O PL S O . G T d a le i e 3 t S ec n d E d n E . h . . ne . o io . 5 B he ll. n 6d t hir d W t it u I . ne c . . T E d on iti . T T E A E T H E CO MPLE E LA WN NN IS PL Y R . T HE C M E T E I MME . F . S a hs s . d c . \V O PL SW R 7 6 . a llls e r s . 103 . 6d. ne t. Thir d A . My n e t i . E di on R e v s ed . t . i ‘ M E E M T I T Fi s n o n T HE C M ET E A C HT MA . B T H E C T . o u . e c s al O PL O OR S l Y g O PL Y S N . H k t l

. 6d . t. N E di n S n h Sm i h a nd E . d u llo u ln . et. I n ne ew tio ( eve t ) . t y n METH U EN AND CO MPANY LIMIT ED

’ The Connoisseur s Lib r ar y,

‘ E I H F IT E . F . S . o inson . VOR S. A f e L r e d Mas . NG S URN UR , R b I IE l k ll

E I H EWELLER Y. H . iffor d mi h. S C E B . ar n ar i C econd NGL S OLOUR D OOKS M ti H d e . J l S t

E dition . ET H I N . Sir F . edm or S on d d i ion ec E . C GS W e. t

. EZZOTINTS . C av n ort . E E A E M yril D e p A ME . e nr H Cu n n UROP N N LS H y . y g T UR S . u d e a h. ha m e . MINIA E D l y He t

ORC L . E dwar d D i on . A . Edwar d Di GL SS llo n. ‘P E AIN ll ’ ’ . r . MI T H A ND I E MI H W F NE Bo o k s . A W. o a d GOLDS S S LV RS T S ORK . I P ll

e s o n D a ws o n . S econd E d i ion . Wa t r e r Bir h . d a . N l t . SEALS l e G y c

I MI A T E MA OOD S LP R . A fr e Mas e . S econd NU CRI . A . r er CU U d T . e LLU N D S P S J H b t . W T E l k ll S econ E d d ition .

Ha d k li hur h Hi r n b oos of Eng sh C c sto y.

“

ite b H URN Cr own 8m . 23 . 6d . n et each volu m e B . . Ed d y J . .

~ F AT I R T HE E I H H R H THE E F MAT I N E I . e nr e e G . T H E OUND ONS O NGL S C U C . R OR O P R OD H y

H a u d e . . . T HE T E IT H I T A I M Br J M S L W P S . u c e ' RUGG UR N T HE SA XON CHURCH A ND T HE NORMA N CON B laxla n d .

E T . C . T . C r u ttwe ll. “ Q U S T HE C H URC H OF E NGLA ND I N T HE E IGH

ME I E A T E E NT H CE T . fr e Plu m m e t H E d . T D V L CH URCH AND T HE PA PA CY . N URY Al

A . enn n s . C . J i g

H d o k O h l an b o s f T eo ogy.

T H I E OF T HE I A A T I . AN I T T I T o T HE H I T R OF T HE E D OCT R N NC RN ON . N RODUC ON S O Y

e . F h E d ion R ev s ed . D em C E E . A . E . Bu r n . D ew 80 0 . 6d . Ottl y if t it , i y R DS y

Bo o . 12s . 6d . ‘ T H E PH I LOSOPH Y OF R E LI GI ON I N E NGLA ND

I A T . fr e d a d ec o . D em 8710. A H I ST ORY OF EA RLY CHR ST I N D OC R I NE A ND AMER ICA . Al C l tt y - F . B e hu n e Ba er . D em 8 m. 105 . 6d . r oe . 6d . J . t k y 7 A N I NT RODUCT I ON T o T H E H I ST ORY OF TH E XXXI X A R T I CLE S OF T HE C HURCH OF

E I I F . B . evon s . F th E d ion . E A . Ed i ed b E . C . . so n R L G ON. J if it NGL ND t y S Gib ,

D em B o 103 . 6d . S even h E di io n . D em 8710. 12s . 6d . y o . t t y

“ ” The Hom e Life Ser ies . ‘

I lu str ated D em SZ/oi 65 . to 6d n l . y . et.

. ' ME LI FE I N A ME I A . a her ine . H ME I FE I N IT A ina D ﬁ r on. HO R C K t G O L LY . L u Go d

B e . S econ d E d i ion . S econd E d i i u sb y t t on . m H OME LI F E IN FR A NC E . Miss Be tha H ME I FE I N A H . Danie s O L NORW Y . K . l . th E d i ion . E d wa r d s . F if t Mr A i HOME I F E m G E MA . s . . S d ic k . L H ME F E I IA . I N Dr . A . a o r . R NY O L RUSS . S R pp po t S ec on d E d i ion . t ‘ H ’ . . Me ld m t ME I F E I N I . H M E I FE I N H A . D r u A N . B ens u O L OLL ND S O L SP . S L. san

d i S econd E d i ion . S econd E it on . t

The Lib r ar y of Devotion.

With ntr o duc tio ns and her n sa N I (w e eces r y) o tes .

S m all P ott 8vo cloth s at 5 , , 2 . le her , 2 . 6d . net each volu me.

‘ ’ T H E C FE I o r U B S T . A T I E . I H WI ON SS ONS GUS N S OP LSON S SA CRA PR I VA T A .

S even th E d ition . GRA CE ABOUNDING T o T HE CHI RP or SI N T H E I MIT A T I OF CH I T . S ix th E d ition . ON R S N E RS .

T HE CH I T I A EA . F h E d Y t ition . A A A : A o a e R S N R if LYR S CR Bo k of S cr e d Ver s .

S e ond E d ition. Y A I NNOCE NT I U M . Thir d E d itio L R n . c A D A Y B M T HE A I NT A ND T HE T M OO O S E E . S e on d E d PL c ition . K PR S FAT HE RS . A B or DE T I S e d d i OOK VO ONS . con E tion . I E B W A L TT L OOK or H EA VE NLY I SDOM . A A S E I O CA LL T o A D E VO T A ND HOL R US U Y e e tio n fr m th En ish M sti S l c o e gl y cs . I FE . F o u r th E d itio L n . I HT I F E a nd E A e e tion fr A I E T E L , L , LO . S om GU D o T ERN I T Y. G Y l c e r the G m a n My stics . THE W e I E AY. S ond E d i NN R c tion . AN I T U T I N T o T HE DE YOUT I FE N ROD C O L . O N T HE E r LOV o GOD .

THE A M o r DA I THE LI TT LE FLOWE o r T HE GLO I O PS L S V D . RS R US ME E F A I A S T . C ND r o HI S FRIA S . A A T SS R R N S R LYR POS OLI CA . N THE o r D E A T H A D I MMO T A LIT Y. SONG SONGS . R

THE I IT A I E . S ec d T HE T H S L G D on E dition . HT o n A A . S e ond E di i P R OUG S P SC L c t on . U U

' A MA A OF NU L . CONSOLAT I ON F ROM T HE D EVOT I ONS POR E VE RY D A Y I N T HE WEE K A I T A ND FA T S HE . HE E A T FE T I N S RS A ND T GR S VALS . ‘ D E T I VO O PROM T HE APOC PHA . RI A NS RY PRE CE S P Y T AE . THE I IT UA C MBA T SP R L O . HORA E MYS T ICA E : A D ay B o o k fr o m the T HE D E vOT I ONs o r T A E Writin s f M s ti S M . o s of Man ati . NS L g y c y N ons .

Little Books on Ar t . W ith m an Ill str ations 16m o. 23 6d net ac y u . D emy . . e h volu m e.

Each volu m e c onsists o f ab ou 2 00 a es and c ontains fr om 0 to 0 u tr a o t p g , 3 4 Ill s ti ns, inclu din a rontis i c e in Pho to r avur e g F p e g .

E D E A A H . . e n M s . T U . H EI . r . For tes u e LBR C R R L J ll OLB N G c .

A T o r A A T HE . E D i on. Thir d R S J P N , . ll I MI AT E MA I W Br e U U . ad . LL N D N SCR PT S . J . l y E d ition .

E WE E . . D ave n r J LL RY C po t . B A T E E Alm aclr . OOKPL S . . H H N H OPPNER . . . . i n JO P K Sk pto . M . B o nno t B T T I E I . ar O C LL y L . S IR OS HUA RE N D im e - Y OL S . . S . S econd B E . F d e is e . URN JONES . L l J E itian .

I . H H . s . CE LL N I . R . Cu t MI E . LL T . N Pe a co ck. H I IA M Mr s . H e e T I M. nn r . C R S N SY BOL S . J MI IA T E C D a ve n R . ort . A N U S . p H Mr H . C I T I N RT . e nne r R S s . . J M O UR AD I N ART . r s. H . enn L Y J er . A E . E D CL UD . illon . — H A AE A. . D r R P L. R y hu r st. H . o d T A E m ns . S e n CONS BL W . To pki c d i A E t E Mr s . E . i on MB A T . . h . R R ND S ar p. A ‘ C T . . o ar d a n d E . Bir ns tin l . I Mu r ie l o lk o ws . Ci ORO P ll g ROD N ka. M E A ME r s . . Da w . i L . N s on S ec ond E d tion . T E F r - i T r e . N S URN R . . y ll G ll

F E E I E I HT A . r D C O . Co r an. R R L N k VA M. m a w o o d . G NDYCK . G. S ll

E E M E a s t . G OR RO N Y . G . P on G VE A Z EZ W. Wi b er for e and A. R. L QU . l c H . B . W E E ART . a te r s . F o u r th E d ition . GR K l G ilb e r t .

E ZE A ND B HE . E . F WA i . o ar d . T T . . E D . e t h e . S e ond E d tion . GR U OUC R P ll S R . Sk c l y c ' ' ‘ N E K A L i l lLKA I U R E

The Little Galleries .

d n each volu m 25 . 6 . et e. D emy 167710.

E in late in Ph avur e to e h r ach volum e c o nta s 20 p s o to gr , g t e with a Shor t o utline o f lif an or k o f th m a to ho m the b o o s d evo t d the e d w e ster w k i e .

MI A I A ITT E A E OF . A L ITT LE GA LLE RY o r RE YNOLDS . L L G LL RY LL S

A IT T E A E OF E I H ET . A L ITT LE GA LLE RY or ROMNE Y . L L G LL RY NGL S PO S A E E R A LIT T LE G LL RY OF HOPP N .

The Little Guides .

i ts an H NEW and other ar t s d fr om ho to r a hs . n llustr ations b E . With m a y I y . , p g p

d net leather s . 6d . net each volu m e. S m all P ott 8va, cloth, 23 . 6 . ; , 3 ,

h n n h r The m ain featu r es o f these Gu id es ar e ( I ) a a d y a d c a m ing fo r m ( 2) illus -kn o wn ar tI stS o o d lan s an d m a s tr ations fr om photo gr aphs an d b y w ell 5 3) g p (4) O . p i n of eve r thIn that 15 I n ter est n In the an ad e q u ate b u t c o m pac t pr esentat o y g i g r h u s histo ar chaeo lo and ar chI tectu e o f t e to wn o r d istr i c t tr ea ted . na tu r al fea t r e , ry, gy ,

A H . E I E T E HI E A N D T A . A . Har ve CA M BR I DGE A ND IT S COLLE GE S . . L C S RS R RU L ND y - and V. B . C r o w the r Be no n hir d E d i tion R ev is ed . y . T ho m ps o n. T ,

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n e t . W. B . I l ted I A ou tin us tra . WO MA N I N T LY . l g l H T E C T I F MB . H u I E O IA . Ed war d t ton. o r os . 6d . n et . D em y Bo . S U R

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