'Craft' Spirits Continue to Grow, the Term Itself Comes

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FEATURES

10 In the Name of Love On-Premise Advice speaks of Valentine’s wines held dear to the heart.

12 Cocktail Corner Avoid a deep freeze with a little seasonal cocktail creativity.

18 Supply and Demand This month’s guest columnist shows how brands create 10 craft beer sales buzz. 20 Retail Review Spring Street Spirits surprises with a niche in Newport.

24 The Deal with Burgundy Quality is solid, but can retailers get enough to sell at a decent price? 18

20 24 February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3 FEBRUARY2015

26 Bar Talk Jim Kearns oversees The Happiest Hour in Manhattan.

28 What’s in a Name? As ‘craft’ spirits continue to grow, the term itself comes under ﬁ re. 26 34 Taming the Beast Umbrian wine producers cultivate the elegant side of Sagrantino.

40 Lowering the Bar Less-potent cocktails are lean, provocative and proﬁ table.

40 34 DEPARTMENTS 5 Market Point 13 Around Town 22 Serving Up 6 News Front 17 Association News 38 New Products & Promotions 11 The Find 21 By The Numbers

HOW BEER, WINE LIQUOR BRAND INDEX BEER BRAND INDEX AND SPIRITS WINE BRAND INDEX SHOPPING NETWORK Page 1a GET TO THE THE INDEX MARKETPLACE The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.

4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL Volume 79, February 2015, No. 2 (ISSN 0035-4652) February’s issue shows the love (to the industry) by covering the hot topics that help you boost your business, with PUBLISHER Gerald P. Slone on- and off-premise tips and tools for creating value for [email protected] your customers. EDITOR Dana Slone [email protected] ° Our cover story is “Craft: What’s in a Name?” and it could not be timelier. How the trade uses the term “craft” is having an impact on how the category is DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALE SERVICES Laurie Buick defined: turn the pages for more. [email protected] ° And when it comes to craft beer, consumers use many online tools (from the SUBSCRIPTION/RETAIL SERVICES Beer Advocate blog to a brand’s state delivery schedule via social media) to Brian Slone hunt down their beloved beers. Our guest columnist gives her perspective on [email protected] where the buzz leads: to your doors. DESIGN Evan Fraser ° The local focus can be found in Retail Review and Serving Up; and don’t forget [email protected] Around Town. It’s where your brands and your news can be seen: trade tastings, product launches, industry event coverage and more. Read them in this issue WRITERS and then send in your news for the next. Lauren Daley Bob Sample

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thebeveragejournal.com 203.288.3375 ° We go on-premise with a look at low-calorie cocktails. This could be the next Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage Journal; significant step in the cocktail renaissance, with fortified and aromatized wines 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden, CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees. playing a key role in the mix.

Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written permission from the publisher. This includes articles, ° Sagrantino, a hearty red wine from Umbria, may be currently under the radar but pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not it is comparable in intensity to Brunellos and Barolos. Find out how to increase responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. its value in your wine sales. The opinions expressed here are that of the individual authors and not necessarily the views of The Rhode Island Look for New Products & Promotions, the place to read about what’s hot to Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject any material ° that is flawed due to content or design. stock on the shelf or the bar. All advertisements and price list advertising are subject to the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves the ° Remember too, outside of the pages, we offer our password-protected product right to edit, reject or properly classify. shopping website. There you will find the best place to search and manage your product portfolio right when you need it -- through a tablet, laptop or mobile device. If you have not used it yet, we can show you how. Call Laurie or Brian to Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT. get started. Postmaster: Send address changes to: RI Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518 DO NOT FORWARD.

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February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 5 NEWSFRONT

NATIONAL RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION ROLLS BELVEDERE VODKA ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP OUT “BAR” FOR ANNUAL TRADE SHOW WITH THE 24TH JAMES BOND ADVENTURE

The National Restaurant Belvedere Vodka is collaborating Association (NRA) announced with Albert R. Broccoli's EON a new name for its show within Productions, Metro-Goldwyn- a show, BAR (Beverage Alcohol Mayer Studios and Sony Pictures for Restaurants) at NRA Show Entertainment to promote 2015, formerly known as the International Wine, Spirits & “Spectre,” the 24th installment Beer Event. Dedicated to helping professionals develop a of the James Bond series, due for successful bar program in foodservice establishments, BAR at global release on November 6, NRA Show 2015 will take place in the Lakeside Ballroom at 2015. Belvedere will release two Chicago’s McCormick Place on May 17-18. The “show within custom-made and limited editions a show” will take place concurrently with the 2015 National to celebrate Bond's vodka martini. Restaurant Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show, Belvedere has replaced the iconic running from May 16-19. “We wanted our attendees to have Belvedere Palace with the famous a direct word association with BAR at NRA Show and its MI6 headquarters and its signature blue palette will be switched purpose, which is to connect beverage alcohol to restaurant for a distinctive green, mirroring the secret spy agency's ink menus and brands and vice versa,” says convention chair of choice, for a collector's edition of 100 bottles. Belvedere's John Metz. “Now, not only the name, but also the location “Spectre” marketing program includes a global advertising will showcase the importance of beverage alcohol and campaign and a wide range of promotion and activation rights foodservice working hand-in-hand to contribute to an around the film. operation’s bottom line.” CRIMSON WINE GROUP ANNOUNCES WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA INVESTS IN EXECUTIVE LEADERSHIP CHANGES EDUCATING AMERICAN CONSUMERS Napa’s Crimson Wine Group, Wines of South Africa Ltd announced the promotion of (WOSA), a not-for-profit Patrick DeLong to the position industry organization that of President and Chief Executive promotes the exports of Officer, and also named Craig all South African wine, Williams as Chief Operating announced the launch of a year- Officer as well as moving him to long integrated communications campaign that will include the newly-created position of Chief public relations, social media and event marketing. The Winegrower. DeLong, who has 2015 campaign will aim to educate and challenge American been at Crimson for the past seven Patrick DeLong, President and CEO. wine drinkers to experience the broad spectrum of wines and a half years, was previously available from South Africa. Another goal of 2015 will be Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer. He succeeds to translate Americans’ excitement surrounding the category Erle Martin, who left the company earlier this year. DeLong and into increased availability of South African wine in on- and Williams began their new roles on Jan. 1, 2015. Crimson owns off-premise accounts. Even though many regard South Africa and manages over 870 acres of vineyard land across five distinct as a “new world” wine producing country, WOSA, which regions. Their brands include Pine Ridge Vineyards (Napa, Calif.), represents over 500 exporters, is looking to “illuminate the Seghesio Family Vineyards (Healdsburg, Calif.), Archery Summit history, depth and range of South Africa’s vinous prowess” (Dayton, Ore.), Chamisal Vineyards (San Luis Obispo, Calif.), and among new consumers. Double Canyon (Prosser, Wash.).

6 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access NAPA REDEFINED

At Napa Cellars, we’re putting a modern spin on classic Napa wines, combining Napa’s legendary terroir with contemporary sensibilities to create delicious wines that possess all of the character you’ve come to expect from Napa, but with an attitude and price that we think you’ll find rather refreshing. In doing so, we’re redefining what Napa wine can be. Cheers!

NC-2015 Bev Media Ad-Feb.indd 1 1/8/15 3:56 PM NEWSFRONT

SKINNYGIRL COCKTAILS DONATES TO DRESS 2014 CRAFT BEER IN REVIEW FOR SUCCESS DURING THE HOLIDAYS DATA AVAILABLE

Skinnygirl® Cocktails The Brewers Association and founder Bethenny looked back on how craft Frankel donated $150,000 brewers fared in 2014 to Dress for Success®, an and released its statistics international not-for-profit of note. Among the organization that promotes numbers: U.S. brewery the economic independence count returns to historic of disadvantaged women. levels; breweries are "Dress for Success is so opening at a rate of 1.5 important to me. These women are an inspiration to everyone, and per day; through June of 2014, craft brewers enjoyed 18 percent we're happy to help their cause of establishing and growing their growth by volume; IPA is up 47 percent by volume and 49 percent careers,” said Frankel. On Dec. 17, 2014 Frankel and Skinnygirl by dollar sales. Retail data also indicates that variety packs are Cocktails presented a check for $150,000 to Dress for Success up 21 percent by volume and 24 percent by dollar sales; and 38 at the organization's graduation ceremony for the Going Places percent of households bought a craft beer in the last year. “It’s Network, a a program that has helped over 10,000 unemployed remarkable to see how beer has evolved in the past century. Year women secure employment by teaching professional skills and over year we’re seeing tremendous growth in the craft beer sector and 2014 proved that craft beer is moving into the mainstream,” accelerating their job searches through training, career coaching said Bart Watson, chief economist, Brewers Association. A full and networking. Over the course of the three year partnership, summary is available on the organization’s website. Skinnygirl Cocktails has donated more than $700,000 to Dress for Success. MODEST GROWTH FOR ON-PREMISE DRINK DIAGEO RELEASES HAIG CLUB WHISKY IN SALES PROJECTED THE UNITED STATES Drink sales in bars and Diageo announced the restaurants are projected U.S. launch of its new to grow modestly in 2015, single grain scotch whisky, according to Technomic's Haig Club™. Developed expectations for the on- in partnership with global premise alcohol industry. icon David Beckham Conditions at major and British entrepreneur chain restaurants that Simon Fuller, the whisky serve alcohol are slowly is now available across the country. The whisky is crafted at improving, and greater consumer confidence will lead to a Scotland's oldest grain whisky distiller, Cameronbridge in Fife, more positive trend than seen in 2014. Technomic's forecasts, which traces its whisky-producing roots back to the seventeenth released via its BarTAB Report and its Adult Beverage Insights century. "I think we have made something really special. For me, Group, call for consumer expenditures on alcohol away from it has meant understanding how whisky is made and enjoyed home to rise 2.7 percent next year, a slightly greater increase and then working with some incredible people to write a new than is expected for alcohol expenditures at retail. "Conditions chapter for Haig," said Beckham. "Single grain whisky offers a are improving, and with lower gas prices and better consumer completely new flavor profile for whisky fans," said Brian Cox, confidence, we're continuing to see positive movement in Director of Scotch Whisky for Diageo North America. "Haig consumer spending away from home," states David Henkes, Club leads the way in welcoming not only a new era for Scotch, Vice President at Technomic and director of the firm's adult but also an exciting and appealing offering for people who are beverage practice. new to whisky.”

8 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access PUT ORDER INTO YOUR BUSINESS

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VALENTINE’S DAY, A DAY OF LOVE… AND LOVELY WINE

BY LEN PANAGGIO

Here we are, February. Days are getting longer, signs of spring rosé. The food pairings for this wine are endless, as it possesses everywhere. Having survived both the holidays and January, the acidity of a white wine and the fruit of a red wine. we have much to look forward to from a business perspective. Also, take this opportunity to consider rosé as a by-the-glass Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and it usually means option as summer gets closer. Most consumers associate rosé a financial shot in the arm! But alas, this year it falls on a with summer, since its aromas of watermelon, fresh fruits Saturday. Nevertheless, it will bring us all an opportunity to and herbs evoke a sunny day. On the palate, it is light and offer a wine I mentioned in my last article — dry rosé. refreshing with some minerality and good acidity. And the I do hope that some of you attended Mohegan Sun’s Sun color, it’s perfect for Valentine’s Day or a summer day. As a side WineFest last month. If so, you would have tasted quite a few note, rosé gets a little challenged as a food pairing in the colder dry rosés! I believe that this wine has finally been embraced months when food styles become heavier. This isn’t to say that by our consumers as evidenced by the many out-of-stocks that it cannot be consumed year round, and as time goes on, I think I witnessed over the last year. Rosé is an especially great wine it may just replace pinot grigio as the “go-to” aperitif wine. for summer, but its lovely color makes it a wonderful choice As you start to hopefully integrate rosé for Valentine’s Day. If you look at restaurant wine lists today, into your operation, be mindful of how you will see rosés are more prevalent than ever before. Smart it is stored. I’ve seen many restaurants operators get it; the rest of us need to step up! storing their white wines and rosés Rosé has been around a long time, and this wine comes at in beer coolers. Beer temperature varying price points, but it doesn’t top out in the stratosphere. suppresses all the goodness in not just Have your salesperson provide you with a variety of samples rosé, but all our white wines and beers. from around the world. The French rosés have traditionally Slowly, restaurants are now beginning garnered most of the attention, leading the way for the to address this situation, but just be remainder of producers. Areas including Spain, Portugal and mindful of it. Italy compete not only in quality, but at a much more favorable As I have always have said, our loyal price point. And, in America, rosé is also produced at a high guests demand that as operators, we level of quality and at great prices. provide them with the best possible Now, back to Valentine’s Day and rosé. Most restaurants will dining experience. It is incumbent have a special Valentine’s Day menu, or at least some love- upon us to stay ahead of the curve and inspired additions like oysters, chocolate and Champagne to right now, dry, still rosés fit the bill! assist in the mood. For those featuring such pairings for their Cheers to love! menu additions or tasting menus, consider including a still

ABOUT LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage director at some of the top restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate of the University of Rhode Island and has attended the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality.

10 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access THE Valentine'sFIND Day

GALLO LAUNCHES CRUSH-WORTHY COLLABORATIVE ROSE LIQUEUR APOTHIC EXTENSION TO BENEFIT BREAST CANCER RESEARCH Just in time for Valentine’s Day, E. & J. Speed Rack, an all-female speed-bartending competition Gallo is launching Apothic Crush 2013 created by bar industry leaders Ivy Mix and Lynnette as an addition to the Apothic line. A Marrero, has been gaining international notoriety since seasonal release following on the heels it first kicked off. Now, as the fourth season gets of Q4’s Apothic Dark, Crush goes in underway around the U.S., the founders of Speed Rack a surprising direction, combining the have teamed up with Giffard Liqueurs to launch Speed darkness and structure of Petite Sirah Rack Black Rose Liqueur, an all-natural Crème de with the subtle and floral aromatics Rose liqueur. Petals of Moroccan Rosa Damascena are of Pinot Noir. The palate includes macerated in neutral beet spirit to extract their delicate chocolate-covered strawberry notes and aroma and flavor. Net proceeds will be donated in features the signature Apothic smooth support of breast cancer awareness and education; texture. Available February 1st as a available in all Speed Rack competition markets, national limited edition, at SRP $14. including NY, NJ, CT, IL, TX, CA, WA & CO, with more apothic.com to come. SRP $34.99; 40 proof. speed-rack.com

ROMANCE ON THE ( ) MENU Cocktail

With Valentine’s Day on the calendar, Cognac in the U.S. is red-hot—up 12% It seems fi gs have been making romantic spirits and cocktails will in IRI channels in 2014. Premis brings a “top ten aphrodisiac” lists be in vogue all month. Since sexy new twist to the genre, with a VSOP forever. Some historians diamonds are still a girl’s best called Legened, and Premis VS Pink, argue that the soft, fl eshy friend, this Russian Diamond an eau-de-vie developed by a female fi g, not the apple, was the Vodka cocktail is is a good bet chemist and designed to appeal to women original, true forbidden fruit to make the holiday memorable. with its fruity-floral character. Distibution in the Garden of Eden. This began in NY and GA; SC, MI & FL being much is certain: Figenza added in 2015 Q1. captures true fi g fl avor, DIAMOND making it a mixologist’s go-to ESPRESSO for exotic drinks. MARTINI PINK HEART 1½ oz Russian Diamond Vodka 2 oz Premis VS Pink Cognac ¾ oz Kahlúa 5 oz Strawberry Lemon Drop THE BUTTERFLY ¾ oz Bailey’s Irish Cream Syrup by Unique Syrups MARTINI 2 oz freshly brewed espresso coffee 3 Lemon slices 2 oz Figenza Fig Vodka Frothed Milk 1 oz Elderfl ower Liqueur Chocolate-covered Espresso Combine Cognac and syrup in 1 oz Pomegranate juice Beans for garnish a mixing glass with ice; shake Splash of Champagne and strain over lemon slices Lemon wheel Pour ingredients into into snifter, martini for garnish an iced mixing glass. or rocks glass. Garnish Shake contents and strain with sliced strawberry Combine ingredients, into chilled cocktail glass. on a stick. shake well and serve Spoon on a layer of frothed milk straight up in a martini glass. and garnish with chocolate covered Garnish with lemon. espresso beans.

February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 11 COCKTAILCORNER

WINTER WARMER- UPPERS PRAIRIE GIN(GERBREAD) TODDY

or those not living palpably *SPICED STOUT SYRUP: close to the Equator, February Cognac’s snifter-by-the- 12 oz Anderson Valley “Barney Flats” means 28 shades of cold, give ﬁ replace days are feeling Oatmeal Stout ½ cup Sugar (granulated) pretty 20th century these or take. Bitter cold. Raw cold. 2 whole Cloves WetF cold. There is no real antidote, but days, but the spirit’s in- 1 Cinnamon stick warming cocktails can certainly provide herent inner warmth re- ¼ tsp Allspice powder welcome temporary relief, whether they mains. This shot is made Zest ¼ Lemon are physically hot or just built on rich, with Hennessy Black Juice of ½ Lemon warming spirits. In a stainless saucepan, combine all BLACK MAPLE ingredients; bring to a simmer for 20 1 oz Hennessy Black minutes. Let cool and strain. ¼ oz Maple Syrup Top with Club Soda

Method: Method: add Hennessy and Maple Here is a wintry drink with Midwestern Syrup ingredients with ice to a shaker tin, roots. Prairie Organic Spirits are made shake until chilled and strain into a shot “from seed to glass” by family farmers from glass top with soda the Midwest prairie (where it gets really, really cold).

Mulled Cider is a winter classic. At Nick’s PRAIRIE GIN(GERBREAD) TODDY Cove, a conclave of cottages, restaurant ¼ cup boiling Water and oyster bar on the foggy banks of To- 1 oz Gingerbread syrup* males Bay about an hour north of San 2 oz Prairie Organic Gin This multi-faceted take on hot chocolate, Francisco, bartender Danny Martin de- 1 oz Lemon or Orange juice based on Barón Tequila, was created at vised this version, taking advantage of Bodega Negra at the Dream Hotel Down- local cider and stout. Fill cup with boiling water and stir in town in NYC. Their house-made hot gingerbread syrup until dissolved, then add gin and juice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. chocolate is not for the faint-of-palate— HOT SPICED APPLE it’s made with whole milk, chipotle chil- 1½ oz Blackwell Dark Rum es, cinnamon, cloves and brown sugar. ¾ oz Spiced Stout Syrup* *GINGERBREAD SYRUP: 1 cup local Apple Cider 1 cup Dark Brown Sugar 1 cup Water SPIKED MEXICAN Heavy Cream, slightly whipped Cinnamon stick garnish 1 Tbsp Molasses HOT CHOCOLATE 1 tsp Cinnamon 1½ oz Barón Tequila Fill a footed mug with hot water to pre- ½ tsp Ginger (ground) ½ oz Crème de Cacao heat it, then empty. Steam the apple cider ½ tsp Nutmeg 2 dashes Chocolate Bitters ¼ tsp Allspice 3 oz House Hot Chocolate and pour into the warm glass until it is Vanilla Whipped Cream about ¾ full. Add the rum and stout syrup and stir to combine. Top with a collar of Combine ingredients in a pan. Heat to Served warm in a snifter with candy cane the whipped cream by pouring gently boiling while whisking until all the powder and crushed candy cane sprinkles…and milk over the back of a spoon. Serve hot with a substances dissolve. Boil for 2-3 minutes so chocolate scorpion on the side. cinnamon stick for garnish. syrup thickens.

12 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN

TWIN RIVER REFURBISHES BIKES IN ANNUAL COMMUNITY EFFORT

Twin River Casino sponsored its annual bicycle refurbishment program, Project Broken Wheel, this holiday season to help local children. The effort is in conjunction with local law enforcement agencies to utilize unclaimed lost or stolen bicycles. The donated bikes were 1 cleaned, inspected, given replacement parts and made to look brand-new, then topped with a holiday bow. The program celebrated its goal of a 600-bike donation mark, donating 601, since the program’s inception in 2007. Frank Martucci, general manager of beverage operations at Twin River Casino organizes the volunteers, storage space and donations out of the casino for the twice yearly refurbishment and donations: one during the holidays and one in June. 2 3 1. A December 22, 2014 delivery to the Family Literacy Center in Manville marked the total number of bike donations over the years to over 600. 2. A Twin River Casino volunteer loading the bikes for delivery. 3. Adoption Rhode Island in Providence, RI receiving a bike delivery. Over the course of the last four years, the program has donated bicycles to local children’s organizations such as Lincoln Adopt-A-Family, Boys & Girls Club, YMCA, Institute for the Study & Practice of Non-Violence, Martin Luther King Family Center, Children & Family Services, Saint Lucy Heart, Red Hook Initiative, Salve Regina University Scholarship Program and underprivileged families in the Lincoln area. 4 4. Project Broken Wheel volunteers with Martucci (second left).

WHISKEY WONDERLAND HOLIDAY BAZAAR SHOWCASES LOCAL PRODUCTS

Approximately 300 holiday shoppers enjoyed locally- produced items from a festive assortment of Rhode Island small businesses at the Second Annual Sons of Liberty Whiskey Wonderland Holiday Bazaar held at the distillery in South Kingston in December. Three Dogs Sauces, Rhode Island Soap Works, Cherry Valley Herb Farm, Jennifer’s 1 Chocolates, Sweet Althea’s Bakery, Cigar Box, Olive Tap Providence and Rhode Island Omega 3 Dressings as well as Sons of Liberty Spirits offered their wares along with other vendors. Cocktails made from Sons of Liberty Battle Cry, Uprising and their “World’s Best” Pumpkin Spice Whiskey were available for sale as well. “It was awesome bringing the community together for a memorable night of music, food and fun. We loved having so many of our friends at the distillery showcasing their businesses; Rhode Island just has 3 so much to offer and we are proud to be a part of it,” said Mike Reppucci, owner and founder of Sons of Liberty Spirits. 1. Twenty local businesses were present sampling their goods and selling holiday goodies. 2. A special “barrel tree” lighting ceremony was held. 3. Mike Reppucci (far right), owner and founder of Sons of Liberty Spirits. 4. Lisa Brochu, Jessica Hotham, Sheryl Singh and Sons of Liberty 2 4 Spirits’ Bryan Ricard.

February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 13 AROUNDTOWN

BROWN-FORMAN BOURBONS FEATURED IN PROVIDENCE TASTING

On December 16, 2014, Whisky RI hosted Don Jean of Brown-Forman at New Harvest Coffee and Spirits in Providence for a tasting of selections from the Woodford and Old Forester portfolios. The group tasted three bourbons from Old Forester and three bourbons from 1 Woodford Reserve, including the limited-edition bourbon, The Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection 2014 Pinot Noir Finish Bourbon. Whisky RI presents regional whisky seminars and tastings and also raises money for charities and non-profits by hosting private tastings. 1. Don Jean, Market Manager, Brown-Forman shared his 30-plus years of bourbon industry knowledge with guests. 2. The Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection 2014 Pinot Noir Finish Bourbon. 1 2

THE REVOLVING DOOR’S REVOLVING BAR

“Holiday Classic Cocktails” were served at the Revolving Door in Newport, in keeping with the restaurant’s guest roster of hosted talent on December 20, 2014. “The Cocktail Guru” Jonathan Pogash was mixing up Tom & Jerrys and Blue Blazers. On December 28, 2014, Providence bartenders Christopher Almeida and Carlos Garcia put a twist on some classic cocktails with barrel-aged Cockspur Rum, including The Flaming Spur, a tiki drink made for the season. 1. Pogash plays with fire. 1 2 2. Two creations and menu. 3. Carlos Garcia works the flame. 4. The Flaming Spur, a tiki drink.

3 4

USBG RI CHAPTER ELECTS 2015 OFFICERS

The United States Bartenders Guild Rhode Island (USBG RI) chapter announced its 2015 leadership team for the new year: Chris Almeida, Chapter President; Michael Lester, Vice President; Elizabeth Sawtelle, Secretary; and Patrick Cull, Treasurer. The USBG RI chapter hosts an array of beverage industry events and educational sessions with beverage suppliers, as well as participating in regional, national and international industry events to further the profession and the craft of bartending. Rhode Island bar and industry professionals interested in joining the local chapter can visit usbg.org to learn more.

14 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access 21ST AMMENDMENT 2X4 BREWING + IMPORTS 3 BEARDS 33 EXPORT 8 WIRED ABBAYE DU VAL-DIEU ABITA ACE ACHEL TRAPPIST ADNAMS AFFLIGEM AGAINST THE GRAIN AGUILA ALESMITH ALEXANDER KEITH’S AROUNDTOWN ALHAMBRA ALLAGASH ALMAZA AMAGER AMHERST AMIATA AMSTEL ANCHOR ANDECHS ANDERSON VALLEY APOSTEL BRAU ARCOBRAU ASAHI ASTRA ATLANTIC ATWATER BLOCK AUGUSTINER-BRAU AVERY AYINGER BACHUS BACKLASH BAD MARTHA BAIRD BALADIN BALLANTINE BALLAST POINT BANNER BAR HARBOR BARBAR BARD’S TALE BASS BASTOGNE BATCH 19 BATEMANS BATTLE ROAD BAVIK BAXTER BAY STATE BEAR REPUBLIC BECK’S BEER HERE BELFAST BAY BELGIUM MIX PACK BELGIUM SAMPLER BELHAVEN BROWN-FORMAN BOURBONS FEATURED IN BERKSHIRE BFM BIEGLER BRAU BIRRA MENABREA BIRRIFICIO BRESCIANO MONTENETT BITBURGER PROVIDENCE TASTING BLACK ISLE BLACK SHEEP BLANCHE DE BRUXELLES BLAST BY COLT 45 BLATANT BLAUGIES BLUE DAWG BLUE HILLS BLUE MOONRhode BLUE POINT Island’s BOCKER BOCKOR only BODDINGTONS complete BOHEMIA BOHEMIA REGENT On December 16, 2014, Whisky RI hosted Don Jean of BOMBREWERY BOON BORG BRUGGHUS BOSTEELS BOSTON BEER WORKS BOULDER BOULEVARD Brown-Forman at New Harvest Coffee and Spirits in BRASH BRASSERIE DES SOURCES BRECKENRIDGE BREWDOG BREWMASTER JACK BROAD BROOK BRONX Providence for a tasting of selections from the Woodford BROOKLYN BRUNEHAUT BUCKLER BUD ICE BUD LIGHT BUD LIGHT LIME BUDWEISER BUFFALO BILL’S and Old Forester portfolios. The group tasted three BULL ICE BURTONonline BRIDGE BUSCH searchable BUTTERNUTS BZART databaseCAMBRIDGE CAMBRIDGE of HOUSE CANDIA bourbons from Old Forester and three bourbons from ROAD CAPE ANN CARACOLE CARIB CARLING CARLSBERG CARTA BLANCA CASCO BAY CASTELAIN Woodford Reserve, including the limited-edition bourbon, CASTLE EGGENBURG CAZEAU CCM CENTRAL CITY CERVEJARIA COLORADO CHANG CHEERS BEER 1 CHIMAY TRAPPIST CHRISTOFFEL CISCO CITY STEAM CLAUSTHALER CLOWN SHOES COLT 45 CONISTON The Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection 2014 Pinot CONTRERAS COOPERS COOPERSTOWN COORS CORAL CORONA CORONADO CORSENDONK ABBEY Noir Finish Bourbon. Whisky RI presents regional whisky COTTRELL CRABBIES CRAZY MOUNTAIN CRISTAL CUSQUENA CZECHVAR D’ACHOUFFE DAB DALESIDE seminars and tastings and also raises money for charities DARK HORSE DAY OF THE DEAD DE DOCHTER VAN DE KORENAAR DE DOLLE DE GLAZEN DE GRAAL and non-profits by hosting private tastings. DE HALVE MAAN DE HOEVEBROUWERS DE KONINCK DE KONINGSHOEVEN DE LA SENNE DE MOLEN DE 1. Don Jean, Market Manager, Brown-Forman shared his 30-plus PROEF DE RANKE DE REGENBOOG DE SILLY DEL BORGO DEL DUCATO DES ROCS DEVASSA DIEU DU CIEL DILEWYNS DINKEL ACKER DISTILLERIE DU MONT BLANC DIXIESKUs DOCTOR DIESEL DOG BITE DOGFISH years of bourbon industry knowledge with guests. 23,300 HEAD DOS EQUIS DRAFTMARK TAP SYSTEM REFILLS DRAGON DU BOCQ DU MONT BLANC DUBUISSON 2. The Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection 2014 Pinot Noir DUNDEE DUPONT DUVEL ECHIGO EFES EIBAUER EINBECKER EKU ELBLAG ELLEZELLOISE EMILISSE ENGEL Finish Bourbon. 1 2 EPIC ERDINGERencompassing ESTAMINET ESTRELLA DAMM ESTRELLA GALICIA EVIL wineGENIUS EVIL TWIN EXMOOR EXTRAORDINARY IRISH BEERS VARI FAMILIAR FAMOSA FAUST-MILTENBERGER FINCH FIRESTONE WALKER FISCHER FLYING DOG FLYING HORSE FOOLPROOF FOSTER’S FOUNDERS FRANZISKANER FRUH FRULI FULL SAIL FULLER’S GALE’S GEANTS GEARY’S GENESEE11, GENTSE 3 GEORGE 9 0 KILLIAN’Sproducts, GINGA KOGEN GIRARDIN THE REVOLVING DOOR’S REVOLVING BAR GLADIATOR GLUTENBERG GOOSE ISLAND GOSSER GRADO PLATO GREAT DIVIDE GREEN FLASH GREEN JACK GREENE KING GREENS GREY SAIL GRIMBERGEN GRITTY MCDUFF’S GROLSCH GUINEU GUINNESS “Holiday Classic Cocktails” were served at the Revolving HAACHT HAANDBRYGGERIET HACKER-PSCHORR HAMBLETON HAMM’S HANSSENS ARTISANAAL HARP Door in Newport, in keeping with the restaurant’s guest HARPOON HARVEY HARVIESTOUN HAYWARDS 5000 HE’BREW HEAVY SEAS HEINEKEN HET ALTERNATIEF roster of hosted talent on December 20, 2014. “The Cocktail HET ANKER HIGH NOON HITACHINO HOEGAARDEN HOF TEN DORMAAL HOFBRAU-MUNCHEN Guru” Jonathan Pogash was mixing up Tom & Jerrys and HOFBROUWERIJKE HOPPIN’ FROG HOPPY HOPUS HUE HUISBROUWERIJ SINT CANARUS HUMBOLDT HURRICANE7, HUVILA 3 HUYGHE 0 0ICEHOUSEspirits, IMPERIAL INNIS3,300 + GUNN IPSWICH ISE beersKADOYA ISLE OF SKYE Blue Blazers. On December 28, 2014, Providence bartenders ITHACA J.W. LEES JACK’S ABBY JAMES BOAG JANDRAIN-JANDRENOUILLE JEANNE D’ARC JENLAIN JEVER Christopher Almeida and Carlos Garcia put a twist on some JOHN COURAGE JOHN HARVARD’S JOHN HENRY JOHN SMITH’S JOLLY PUMPKIN JULIUS ECHTER KAISER classic cocktails with barrel-aged Cockspur Rum, including KALIBER KALIK KAPUZINER KEERSMAEKER KERKOM KEYSTONE KILLIAN’S KING COBRA KINGFISHER KIRIN The Flaming Spur, a tiki drink made for the season. KLEIN DUIMPJE KONAfrom KONIG KONIGover LUDWIG KONIG LUDWIGwholesalers WEISSBIER KONINGSHOEVEN TRAPPIST 1. Pogash plays with fire. KORTRIJK DUTSEL KRONENBOURG KRUSOVICE KUKA KULMBACHER LA BOTTERESSE LA CHOULETTE 1 2 LA RULLES LABATT LAGUNITAS LAKEFRONT LAMBISE LAMMSBRAU LANDSHARK LAO LAV LE BREWERY 2. Two creations and menu. LECH LEFFE LEFT HAND LEINENKUGEL’S LES 3 FOURQUETS LES BRASSEURS DE GAYANT LES TROIS 3. Carlos Garcia works the flame. MOUSQUETAIRES LEXINGTON LEZAJSK LIEFMANS LINDEMAN LAMBICS LION LONE STAR LONG TRAIL LOST 4. The Flaming Spur, a tiki drink. 24 NATION LOWENBRAU LUCIFER LUPULUS LUPUS LURISIA MACCABEE MACKESON MAGIC HAT MAGNUM MAHRS MAINE BEER COMPANY MALHEUR MAREDSOUS ABBEY MARSTON’S MAYFLOWER MCAUSLAN MEANTIME MECKATZER MENABREA MENDOCINO MICHEAL PLANK MICHELOB MICKEY’S MIDDLE AGES MIKKELLER MILLER MILTENBERGER MILWAUKEE’S BEST MISSISSIPPI MUD MOA MODELO MOHAN MOLSON MONCHSHOF MONTEGIOCO MOOREHOUSE’S MOOSEHEAD MORETTI MORITZ MORT SABITE MURPHY’S MYSTIC MYTHOS NAKED NARRAGANSETT NATURAL NAUKABOUT NEGRA MODELO NEKTAR NEW PLANET NEWBURYPORT BREWING NEWCASTLE NEWPORT STORM NOGNE-O NORTH COAST NOTCH O’DEMPSEY’S O’DOUL’S O’HANLONSand always O’HARA’S OFFSHOREFREE OHATA OKOCIM OLD MILWAUKEE OLDE BURNSIDE OLDE ENGLISH OLIVSHOLT BRUGGHUS OMISSION OMMEGANG OPA OPA ORION DRAFT ORVAL TRAPPIST OSKAR BLUES OTTER CREEK OUD BEERSEL OVILA ABBEY ALE OXFORDSHIRE PABST PACIFICO PALM PANIL PAPER CITY PAULANERto our PEAK subscribers ORGANIC PERONI PETRUS at PIETRA PILSNER URQUELL PINKUS 3 4 MUELLER PIONEER PIVOVAR SAMSON PORT PREARIS PRESIDENTE PRESTIGE PRETTY THINGS PYRAMID RADEBERGER PILSNER RAPSCALLION RCH REBEL RED DOG RED STRIPE REDBRIDGE REDD’S REDHOOK REGIA REISSDORF REVIVAL RIDGEWAY RINKUSKIAI RISING TIDE ROBINSON FAMILY ROCHEFORT TRAPPIST ROCK ART RODENBACH ROGUE ROLLING ROCK ROMAN RUCKUS SAGRES BOHEMIA SAIGON SAINT USBG RI CHAPTER ELECTS 2015 OFFICERS SOMEWHEREthebeveragejournal.com SALOPIAN SAMUEL ADAMS SAMUEL SMITH SAN MIGUEL SAPPORO SARANAC SARATOGA SCHAEFER SCHLENKERLA SCHLITZ SCHNEIDER SCHOFFERHOFER SCHWABEN BRAU SEA DOG SEBAGO SEEF The United States Bartenders Guild Rhode Island (USBG RI) SERAFIJN SESSION SHEPHERD NEAME SHIPYARD SHOCK TOP SIERRA NEVADA SINCLAIR SINEBRYCHOFF chapter announced its 2015 leadership team for the new SINGHA SIXPOINT SLAAPMUTSKE SLUMBREW SMITHWICK’S SMUTTYNOSE SOL SOUTHAMPTON PUBLICK year: Chris Almeida, Chapter President; Michael Lester, Vice HOUSE SOUTHERN TIER SPANISH PEAKS SPATEN SPENCER SQUATTERS ST. AMBROISE ST. BERNARDUS ST. President; Elizabeth Sawtelle, Secretary; and Patrick Cull, FEUILLIEN ST. GERMAN ST. IDES ST. JOHN ST. LOUIS ST. MARTIN ST. PAULI GIRL ST. PETERS ST. STEFANOS ST. STEFANUS STAROPRAMEN STEEL RESERVE STEENBRUGGE STEGMAIER STEINLAGER STELLA ARTOIS Treasurer. The USBG RI chapter hosts an array of beverage STERKENS STIEGL STILLWATERFor more information, ARTISANAL callALES us STONE 203-288-3375 STOUDTS STRAFFE to get started.HENDRIK STROHS SUNNER industry events and educational sessions with beverage SUPER BOCK SUPREMA T BROUWKOT T GAVERHOPKE TAJ MAHAL TAP TATRA TECATE TENACIOUS suppliers, as well as participating in regional, national and TENNANTS TER DOLEN TETLEY’S THE BRUERY THE LION THE LOST ABBEY THE SHED THE TRAVELER international industry events to further the profession and THEAKSTON THEILLIER THIRD SHIFT THIRIEZ THOMAS CREEK THOMAS HOOKER THORNBRIDGE HALL the craft of bartending. Rhode Island bar and industry THREE BEARS THREE HEADS TIGER TIMMERMANS TIMOTHY TAYLOR TOMAS WATKIN TONGERLO TRAQUAIR professionals interested in joining the local chapter can visit TRAVELER TRINITY TROEGS TROUBADOUR TSINGTAO TUCHER TUCKERMAN TUSKER TWO ROADS TYSKIE usbg.org to learn more. UERIGE OBERGARIGE HAUSBRAUEREI UINTA UNIBROUE URBAN FARM FERMENTORY URTHEL VAMPIRE VAN DEN BOSSCHE VAN EECKE VAN HONSEBROUCK VAN STEENBERGE VANBERG + DEWULF VAPEUR VELTINS VERGINA VERHAEGHE VERZET VICTORIA VICTORY VILLA RIESLING VIRU WACHUSETT WARKA WARSTEINER WASATCH WATERFRONT WEIHENSTEPHANER WELLS WESTFIELD RIVER WESTHEIMER WESTMALLE TRAPPIST WEYERBACHER WHITE BIRCH WICKED PISSA WIDMER WILLIAMS BROTHERS WITKAP PATER WOLAVER’S WOLTERS WOODSTOCK INN WORMTOWN WORTHINGTON’S WOSTYNTJE WURZBURGER WYCHWOOD YANGJING YEASTIE BOYS YOUNG’S YUENGLING ZATEC ZOTLER ZYWIEC AROUNDTOWN

THE EDDY CELEBRATES TWO YEARS

“Whiskey, BBQ, Beer and Rock & Roll” were served at the Eddy’s second anniversary party on December, 29, 2014 in Providence. The party was sponsored by Four Roses Bourbon Whiskey and Revival Brewing Company. Providence band, Smith & Weeden, rocked the house and BBQ was provided by Jake Rojas of Tallulah’s. All funds raised were donated to Downtown Providence Parks Conservancy. 1 1. Owner and bartender Jay Carr with Jesse Hedberg. 2. Smith & Weeden play on. 3. Four Roses, one of two sponsors of the event.

Photos by Chris Almeida.

WILD TURKEY’S EDDIE RUSSELL LEADS BOURBON DINNER

Wild Turkey hosted a bourbon dinner with distiller Eddie Russell at Twin River Casino on December 11, 2014. Russell is the son of renowned master distiller, Jimmy Russell, and the fourth generation Russell to work at the Austin Nichols distillery in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, with three decades of expertise to share. Guests enjoyed the education and tasting of brand’s bourbon line including Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit, Russell’s Reserve Rye, Russell’s Single Barrel and Wild Turkey Rare Breed paired with Twin River’s culinary creations.

2 1. The tasting line up. 2. Eddie Russell with Cook & Brown’s Gillian White. 3. Russell addresses the room.

1 3

16 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access AROUNDTOWN ASSOCIATIONNEWS

THE EDDY CELEBRATES TWO YEARS TURNING FOOD INTO ENERGY “Whiskey, BBQ, Beer and Rock & Roll” were served at the Eddy’s second anniversary party on December, 29, 2014 in Providence. The party was sponsored by Four Roses Bourbon Whiskey and Revival Brewing Company. BY DALE J. VENTURINI Providence band, Smith & Weeden, rocked the house and BBQ was provided by Jake Rojas of Tallulah’s. All funds raised were donated to Downtown Providence Parks Conservancy. Recycling is an incredibly important initiative in this day-and-age while using the residual matter to create fertilizer. Again, the 1 of being green, using fewer natural resources and minimizing our number of targeted facilities located within 15 miles of this proposed 1. Owner and bartender Jay Carr with Jesse Hedberg. 2. Smith & Weeden play on. carbon footprint. We all agree that so many good things come from plant is also a small handful. 3. Four Roses, one of two sponsors of the event. recycling our discarded paper, plastic, and glass, and there is still a In addition to the lack of recycling facilities, there is also no existing long way to go. transportation system in place to support moving the tons of food According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Americans scraps that Rhode Island businesses generate annually. In the past, generated about 251 million tons of trash and recycling in 2012. many Rhode Island restaurants had an agreement with local pig Of that, almost 87 million tons were recycled and composted. On farms to pick up scraps to be used as feed and compost on their average, Americans recycled or composted about one and one-half farms. Unfortunately, the farmers could not handle picking up the pounds of individual waste generation per person, per day. scraps on a regular basis or in a timely manner… thus, that initiative

2 While this is certainly great news, I think we can all agree that more has fallen by the wayside. needs to be done to help protect our limited natural resources and You see, food scraps are a tricky thing. You cannot leave them in to aid in the enormous amounts of garbage occupying our landfills. a kitchen or outside a property for very long, as they will invariably In the last legislative session, the Rhode Island General Assembly attract critters that are looking for a free meal. The RI Department passed what was deemed a revolutionary bill requiring that any of Health has strict regulations on how long food scraps/trash can restaurant, hotel, hospital or school that generates at least 104 tons be safely stored at businesses’ premises and those regulations make a of organic waste materials per year will be required by law to recycle lot of sense. those scraps if that business is located within 15 miles of an organic While I applaud the intent of this new food scrap recycling law, 3 recycling facility or an anaerobic digestion facility. The law goes into and I do agree that as an industry, we need to find a way to recycle Photos by Chris Almeida. effect on January 1, 2016. more of our waste, I don’t believe that this law is enforceable in the I agree that recycling food scraps is an excellent idea; so many of our timeframe that is laid out. We simply will not have the facilities WILD TURKEY’S EDDIE RUSSELL LEADS BOURBON members already recycle cooking oil as well as compost food scraps. necessary built, or the transportation system necessary to move the DINNER And, while I think progress in this direction is certainly the way to scraps in place in less than a year from now. Wild Turkey hosted a bourbon dinner with distiller Eddie go, I also caution that we need to make sure that we have the right The passing of this law is well-intended; it can create a new industry Russell at Twin River Casino on December 11, 2014. Russell infrastructure in place to actually fulfill the intent of this new law. in the state and add some badly-needed jobs. As we look to find new is the son of renowned master distiller, Jimmy Russell, and solutions to this issue, as an industry we need to do what we have the fourth generation Russell to work at the Austin Nichols Unfortunately, we do not. There is only one large-scale food-scrap distillery in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, with three decades composting operation in the state, Earth Care Farm in Charlestown. always done best: come together as a community and work to find of expertise to share. Guests enjoyed the education and The number of hotels, restaurants, schools and hospitals located 15 the best solution. tasting of brand’s bourbon line including Wild Turkey miles from this facility can be counted on one hand. And, there are Kentucky Spirit, Russell’s Reserve Rye, Russell’s Single Barrel and Wild Turkey Rare Breed paired with Twin River’s no facilities that turn food into energy located in Rhode Island. culinary creations. NEO Energy of New Hampshire has plans to build a 500-kilowatt 2 1. The tasting line up. plant at the Quonset Business Park in North Kingstown, but as of 2. Eddie Russell with Cook & Brown’s Gillian White. this moment, there is no completion date known. This plant would 3. Russell addresses the room. use methane gas from the rotting food scraps to generate electricity www.rihospitality.org

ABOUT DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well 1 3 as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a constant presence for her membership.

February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 17 GUESTCOLUMN

BEER BY THE NUMBERS: CRITICS, RATINGS AND SALES guest columnist JENNIFER PEREIRA

BY JENNIFER PEREIRA THE BUYER THE CONVERGENCE OF ONLINE The largest and fastest growing segment AND OFF-LINE American craft beer is more dazzling and of the craft beer market is Millennials, Not every brewery wants to be the local confusing than ever to everyone in the consumers between ages 21 and 34. Where cult beer, though; “The Alchemist” was business, including the consumer. With traditional marketing methods may work forced to relocate due to the flood of over 3,200 breweries in the U.S. and an with Boomers and Gen-Xers, Millennials traffic disrupting the pastoral calm of their estimated 1.5 additional breweries opening want to know what their friends and peers neighbors. But Dogfish Head may have a every day, the U.S. has more breweries than think. And they are less brand loyal, but better marketing benchmark. They have any other country. The yearly double-digit devout locavores, they respect tradition created brand loyalty in a notoriously fickle category growth has changed the face of but seek novelty and innovation, and most market, and are now ranked as the #13 the beer list and beer aisles across America, importantly are 100% plugged-in and brewery in the U.S. A well-balanced blend which makes keeping up with beer trends mobile. The irony is that Millennials live of online presence (YouTube, FaceBook, more challenging, so ratings and awards in the virtual, yet crave the corresponding Twitter, Untappd) is balanced with a wide often help to identify brands in this very live, tactile experiences. range of live events — specialty tastings, crowded market. dinners and high-profile events — to inspire LESS IS MORE brand ambassadors. COMPARING ADVOCATES If you’re following craft beer group posts The beer market is nothing like that of and tweets, you know that scarcity sells, and wine, even though cross-drinkers are if you’ve got it in stock or on tap, and no one driving both categories. And the primary else does, the craft beer crowd will know critics for each tell the story. Robert about it. Websites and rating systems come Parker’s Wine Advocate uses a 100-point into play here, but craft beer lovers know scale to make or break a brand, with 89 that most brands are not widely distributed, indicating a “very good” wine and a 90 hence the excitement. For instance, if you’ve being “outstanding,” though he will not announced a trip to Vermont lately, and no bother tasting anything under $25. Todd one has asked you to “bring home some and Jason Alstrom’s Beer Advocate uses Topper,” then you are not plugged into the a 5-point scale to rate any beer, regardless beer world. Thanks to rave reviews by BA of price, and registered BA site users can and others, the Alchemist’s website tells on HEALTHY COMPETITION rate any beer they find, whether it be a what days the truck delivers their famous national brand or a local nano brew. The “Heady Topper” to each store, since fans will The American Homebrewers Association site provides an aggregate beer score, and literally follow the truck, and it is typically (AHA) estimates that 1% of all beer the number of reviewers, so a BA score sold out in minutes. There are dozens more consumed in the U.S. is brewed at home, is more likely to accurately reflect “cult beers” around the country, each with consumer tastes. its own local kingdom. CONTINUED ON PAGE 22

18 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access GUESTCOLUMN MORE PRODUCTS MORE TOOLS

BEER BY THE NUMBERS: CONNECT TO THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL CRITICS, RATINGS IN BRAND NEW WAYS. AND SALES Our primary mission is to bring you the most complete information guest columnist JENNIFER PEREIRA on the beer, wine and spirits products available in the marketplace so you can make the best possible decisions in managing your business.

BY JENNIFER PEREIRA THE BUYER THE CONVERGENCE OF ONLINE The largest and fastest growing segment AND OFF-LINE American craft beer is more dazzling and of the craft beer market is Millennials, Not every brewery wants to be the local confusing than ever to everyone in the consumers between ages 21 and 34. Where cult beer, though; “The Alchemist” was business, including the consumer. With traditional marketing methods may work forced to relocate due to the flood of SEARCH AND FIND FROM over 3,200 breweries in the U.S. and an with Boomers and Gen-Xers, Millennials traffic disrupting the pastoral calm of their YOUR FAVORITE DISTRIBUTORS. estimated 1.5 additional breweries opening want to know what their friends and peers neighbors. But Dogfish Head may have a every day, the U.S. has more breweries than think. And they are less brand loyal, but better marketing benchmark. They have Search products by everything from country of origin, region any other country. The yearly double-digit devout locavores, they respect tradition created brand loyalty in a notoriously fickle and grape variety to vintage, size and distributor. Explore the category growth has changed the face of but seek novelty and innovation, and most market, and are now ranked as the #13 deepest deals available and use the Up & Down indicators to importantly are 100% plugged-in and brewery in the U.S. A well-balanced blend the beer list and beer aisles across America, determine which month is better to buy. which makes keeping up with beer trends mobile. The irony is that Millennials live of online presence (YouTube, FaceBook, more challenging, so ratings and awards in the virtual, yet crave the corresponding Twitter, Untappd) is balanced with a wide often help to identify brands in this very live, tactile experiences. range of live events — specialty tastings, crowded market. dinners and high-profile events — to inspire LESS IS MORE brand ambassadors. COMPARING ADVOCATES If you’re following craft beer group posts GET THE SUPPORT YOU NEED. The beer market is nothing like that of and tweets, you know that scarcity sells, and Last year, we introduced The Cellar, an improved version of our wine, even though cross-drinkers are if you’ve got it in stock or on tap, and no one online experience, while at the same time keeping the Classic view in driving both categories. And the primary else does, the craft beer crowd will know tact for the thousands of loyal subscribers that have been logging in critics for each tell the story. Robert about it. Websites and rating systems come Parker’s Wine Advocate uses a 100-point into play here, but craft beer lovers know since 1997. While the name may change, the site’s functionality keeps scale to make or break a brand, with 89 that most brands are not widely distributed, getting better. Online users now have more tools at their fingertips, indicating a “very good” wine and a 90 hence the excitement. For instance, if you’ve including the ability to build lists of products and share them by email announced a trip to Vermont lately, and no being “outstanding,” though he will not or social media outlets like Facebook and Twitter, create PDFs with full bother tasting anything under $25. Todd one has asked you to “bring home some descriptions including labels, bottle shots and tasting notes, as well as and Jason Alstrom’s Beer Advocate uses Topper,” then you are not plugged into the a 5-point scale to rate any beer, regardless beer world. Thanks to rave reviews by BA maintain a list of trade contacts. These online suite of wholesaler and of price, and registered BA site users can and others, the Alchemist’s website tells on retailer tools is part of your subscription and provided by The Beverage HEALTHY COMPETITION rate any beer they find, whether it be a what days the truck delivers their famous Journal and Beverage Media Group. national brand or a local nano brew. The “Heady Topper” to each store, since fans will The American Homebrewers Association site provides an aggregate beer score, and literally follow the truck, and it is typically (AHA) estimates that 1% of all beer the number of reviewers, so a BA score sold out in minutes. There are dozens more consumed in the U.S. is brewed at home, is more likely to accurately reflect “cult beers” around the country, each with consumer tastes. its own local kingdom. CONTINUED ON PAGE 22 NEED HELP LOGGING IN? SCAN HERE Go to TheBeverageJournal.com to register or email [email protected] To Subscribe RETAILREVIEW Spring Street Spirits Ltd. BY BOB SAMPLE

wning one of the oldest package stores in a very old town can Obe both an opportunity and a challenge. Just ask Michael Johnson, co- owner of Spring Street Liquors in Newport, Rhode Island. LOCATION Newport draws hordes of visitors for 137 SPRING STREET about eight months of the year. That’s the NEWPORT, RI opportunity. The challenge lies in preserving FACTS a legacy: Spring Street Spirits has occupied the same location for more than 100 years. SQUARE FOOTAGE: 650 With a nod to history – and its small YEARS IN OPERATION: 100 (7 UNDER CURRENT MANAGEMENT) footprint – Spring Street focuses on serving up quality. new wines; and to accomplish that, he hosts “I taste everything – and if it’s acceptable wine tastings at least once each week. in my mind it comes into the store,” said “The more wines you try, the more you Johnson, who purchased the store in 2008 know,” Johnson said. “In addition, I think with co-owner Nancy Andrade. “People it’s important not to compare one wine know that if they buy a bottle here, it’s going to another. Try to appreciate the taste of a to be good, whether it’s a bottle costing $10 wine on its own merits.” That said, certain or many times that.” reds have demonstrated enduring popularity About 80 percent of the store’s sales among customers. “Pinot Noirs have are from wine, with the remainder split been hot in our store ever since the movie well in advance for their own, private wine equally between beer and spirits. Johnson ‘Sideways’,” Johnson noted. “I expect those tastings. They, and their guests, pay for what encourages customers to experiment with and similar varietals to remain popular well they use, and they bring plenty of bottles into the future.” home as well. Johnson traces his interest in wines and Johnson sees the beer segment growing spirits to being stationed in Italy while in the somewhat, although it is not the store’s U.S. Navy. He was a pianist in a Navy jazz main focus. “We have three beer doors at ensemble that was often invited to play in the store,” Johnson said. “Our craft beer remote villages. “To show their appreciation, section is extremely busy these days. We also the villagers would serve us these four-hour have a door for European beers and everyday dinners,” Johnson recalled. “Each course domestic beers.” Owner Michael Jonhson and patrons enjoying would feature wonderful, handmade wines.” a tasting. Johnson has organized the store meticulously. Although most of its marketing consists of Besides enabling the store to accommodate word of mouth, Spring Street Spirits has more goods in a logical manner, this helps developed an unusual twist on the wine- customers find what they want. “Whether tasting concept. The store has a large bay they’re looking to do a lot of shopping or window, complete with a table and bench. [purchase] just one special bottle, customers “Regulars” know to reserve this popular spot know they can find it here,” said Johnson. ■

If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, email: [email protected]

20 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access BY THE NUMBERS

Gallo survey: a window 2014: A Very Good the best year in their history. on wine drinkers Restaurants remain important Year (for Wineries)? for higher-priced wines. Wineries A recent survey of 1,001 frequent According to Silicon Valley overall reported that wine drinkers by E. & J. Gallo Winery Bank’s (SVB) annual 31% of sales came had some interesting findings about survey, with 582 from restaurants; Americans’ wine drinking attitudes and wineries responding, but wines less than behaviors. Among them: 79% claimed 2014 was a $15 sold only about “good” year, compared 15% on-premise a ■ While two-thirds of American wine to 14% claiming to while wines over $69 drinkers admit to buying a wine have had a year of sold 40% through the based on its label, 76% say that taste “treading water” and restaurant channel. is the most important factor when it only 7% calling 2014 a And in the wake of comes to buying it again. “disappointing” year. Central 2014’s drought: 63% of Coast, Lodi/Delta Counties, wineries said they had ■ Box wine is gaining respect: 58% negligible or no issues as of wine drinkers indicated that they Napa County and Sonoma a result; 37% said they had some have bought box wine. A desire for County had the highest number of convenience also has wine drinkers wineries reporting that they had or significant issues. expressing favorable views of screw- tops, Tetra Paks and 187ml bottles.

■ More than half of younger drinkers Bubbles Outpaced Restaurants Serve Up (25-40) participate in conversations Still Wine Last Year Big Quarter about wine on social media; and The wine market’s two-decade roll Restaurants finished strong in 2014, nearly half report paying attention to slowed to a crawl in 2014 according notching December as their best month bloggers. to Impact Databank, growing 0.3% of same-store sales in the last eight years (up 4.6%), Nation’s Restaurant ■ Not surprisingly, Moscato and to a volume of 322 million 9L cases. sparkling wines are particularly Sparkling wine grew a healthy 3% in News reported. Lower gas prices and popular among wine drinkers volume, however, to 16 million cases, higher employment were cited as prime under 40. Many reported that they with imports growing faster than factors. Overall restaurant industry sales are popping bottles of bubbly for domestic brands. Prosecco was the grew 0.8% in 2014, a welcome turnaround everyday occasions. hottest imported bubbly, led by Mionetto, from the 0.1% decline in 2013. Another La Marca, Zonin and Riondo. Freixenet bright spot: not counting 2014 Q1, which ■ Wine is getting more casual: 81% Cava and Bacardi’s Martini & Rossi was bardened by bad weather across of those surveyed agreed that you Asti are the largest-volume the country, same-store sales grew 1.3% don’t need a special occasion to imported sparkling wines. for the rest of the year. The robust finish enjoy wine. The top three activities Sparkling wines to 2014 bodes well for this year. that accompany wine drinking represent about a 5% include eating a meal at home, share of the U.S. wine relaxing indoors and watching TV. Prosecco = Boom market. Last year Working on five years of solid growth, was the sixth year that ■ Younger drinkers (25-40) are Prosecco sales rose 32% in experimenting in ways previous sparkling wines grew the 12-month period ending generations did not: 66% reported since bottoming December 6th, according to mixing wine with fruit or fruit juice; out in 2008 with Nielsen. Sales of Prosecco 51% make a wine cocktail; 46% drink the onset of the priced between $10 and $15 wine over ice; 27% occasionally even financial crisis. now accounts for one-third of drink wine in a cup with a straw. all sparkling wine sales. ■

February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 21 SERVINGUP

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18

250 SAND HILL COVE ROAD NARRAGANSETT, RI

about 2 million barrels. These 1.2 million 3. Face-to-face events of all types are the homebrewers are your core craft beer key to keeping buyers engaged in the consumers, and exemplify the craft beer product, the brand and the outlet. demographic. They are also ahead of the style curve, brewing and getting excited Overlooking the Block Island Sound on 4. Imperial, Barrel-Aged, Sour and Herb- about the next “cool” beer years ahead of the picturesque fishing port of Galilee, Spice-Vegetable-infused beers are for commercial brewers. George’s of Galilee has served fresh-off- special occasions and thrill seekers. the-boat fare — and unique cocktails — No one recognizes this better than Boston since 1948. The bread-and-butter styles will Beer’s Jim Koch who created the Longshot increasingly be the normal-gravity to Competition. The annual entry statistics “session” beers. BARTENDER: Ariana Hamner of this massive homebrew contest are a COCKTAIL: Chocolate-covered goldmine of market data, especially with 5. What comes around is coming around Strawberry Martini regard to trends in taste. One of last year’s again — expect more old-school beer winners was a Grätzer. Never heard of it? RECIPE: styles (American Pilsner) and historic Five years ago most folks had never heard • 1/2 oz. Stoli Raspberry Vodka styles (Grätzer and Gose) in the • 1 oz. Fragoli Wild Strawberry Liqueur of Kölsch either. • 1/2 oz. Bols Crème de Cacao White coming months and years. • 1 oz. Godiva Chocolate Liqueur • 1/2 oz. Godiva White Chocolate THE BELGIAN LACE… The relevance and impact of critics, Liqueur 1. Post Beer Advocate and other beer • 1/2 oz. half & half competitions and ratings on beer sales website ratings on your shelf talkers: is profound, and the impact that social Pour all into a shaker with ice and they are a good indicator of consumer media and consumer frenzy has on tumble into another shaker. Line a tastes. Big beers tend to dominate, but martini glass with chocolate syrup in supply and demand for specific beers is plenty of others are rated, too. swirl or “flower petals” pattern. Strain one that grows with each new release or drink into the martini glass. Garnish seasonal. Take advantage of it. with whole strawberry. 2. Competition medals and awards of all types are important. Keep on top of the winning lists from local and Nothing says Valentine’s Day like chocolate and strawberries. “It’s national comps. ABOUT Jennifer Pereira, MBA, DWS, CWE, CBS reminiscent of the strawberry truffles and BJCP National Beer Judge, is an associate professor at Johnson & Wales University in you’d get in a chocolate box as a kid,” Providence. Pereira is the faculty advisor to said Hamner. “Sweet and familiar.” university’s student brewing club, JbreW.

22 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access for complimentary savorct.comVisit trade tickets and discounted rates

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Brothers Xavier (seated) and Jérome Garnier, seen here with their father Joseph, make fantastic Chablis at surprisingly affordable prices. The Deal “In Burgundy, there’s no place to plant Halbert says. “I have to buy it when it’s any more. The size is the size,” says Boisset. offered to me. If we come up short on a WiTh BurgunDy “I recommend that stores that are few bottles of Bordeaux, there’s always interested in selling Burgundy, they opportunities. Burgundy, forget it. It’s Quality is solid, But Can you really plan with people like us from that not possible.” ■ Get enouGh to sell at a deCent PriCe? region. Planning is more important than ever. Because if they don’t, they By W. BLAKE GRAy won’t have all the wines all the time. Demand for Burgundy is growing a Few GeNeral and we have some short vintages. It’s oBservatioNs becoming much more of an allocation might be importing only four barrels business than ever before.” n today’s increasingly fluid and competitive wine market, savvy ❂ Chablis, the most respected Perhaps because of his interests of the wine. There’s not enough to go Burgundy appellation that one retailers are actively seeking out wines that can set them apart— in California, where he owns brands enticing, rewarding gems shoppers won’t find elsewhere. around. And some of the top producers, can buy under $25 SRP, is I their Bourgogne is $40 now.” including Buena Vista, DeLoach and The arrival of a good easily the best source of value. The likely main reason is the growing Raymond, Boisset has a more global $25 Burgundy in the Some of these wines are terrific, While it sounds counterintuitive, Bad News, Good News number of U.S. consumers who take an perspective than most Burgundians. He like Domaine Garnier & Fils, good ol’ Burgundy has emerged as a go-to “For $25 [retail], it’s hard to find much active interest in the wine world. Most believes it’s important for Burgundy to store has become imported by Martine’s Wines. region for such merchants. The primary red Burgundy that’s worth drinking,” wine education classes praise Burgundy keep making wines at entry-level prices. an event worth grapes in Burgundy—Chardonnay and says Ian Halbert, Burgundy specialist as the queen of wine regions. And “To think that Burgundy is only a ❂ Olivier Leflaive, imported by Pinot Noir—are household names, for Gordon’s Fine Wine & Liquors in the greatly improved consistency of $75 wine, that is the wrong perspective,” broadcasting to your Frederick Wildman & Sons, does nice entry-level Bourgognes making the wines relatively easy to Waltham, MA. Burgundy wines compared to 15 years Boisset argues. “It’s important to get customers along with in both red and white that are flag with shelf talkers (“Great unoaked That was also my experience in ago means people are more likely to like people into the category of Burgundy, a recommendation to better value than most village- French Chardonnay!”) or to recommend what they try first, and go back for more. to find wines at $18 or $20 that are preparing for this article, based on a level wines. without a complicated hand-sell. request through the BIVB for samples of very good value if you compare with a act with urgency. According to the BIVB (Burgundy PoPularity & QuaNtity Russian River Valley wine.” wines that retail under $25 in the U.S. I ❂ Some entry-level wines have the Both Factors That idea of comparison is part of Wine Board), U.S. imports were up got more whites overall, and more good words "Chardonnay" and "Pinot “Burgundy used to be the reserve of the problem. It’s hard to tell clients 7% in 2013—having increased for the whites. *[See sidebar.] very good quality, but they just sit there Noir" written very prominently, connoisseurs,” says Halbert. “At this that a Pinot Noir from Chile is a good fourth year in a row—and the figures are With white Burgundy, $25 retail can with Burgundy itself downplayed point it’s such a hot category, and because people don’t want to pay a few getting close to the pre-recession high still buy some village-level wines. But substitute for red Burgundy (even (only Bourgogne-appellation everybody is into it.” dollars more.” of 2007. Even better, the wines have $25 for red Burgundy buys very little though sometimes it is). And wines wines can use these grape Jean-Charles Boisset, who produces never had more consistent quality. beyond the most basic Bourgogne from other good Pinot Noir regions, variety names on the front label and imports several good value the holy Grail Unfortunately, it has also never Pinot Noir. I did find one decent like Oregon or Central Otago or the at all). I found those wines Burgundies, says not only should we If there is a bright spot in the ongoing among the least appealing. been more difficult to stock a steady village wine, Domaine Faiveley Sonoma Coast or the Sta. Rita Hills, expect prices to keep rising, we can’t aren’t cheap. bargain Burgundy market squeeze for It’s possible they are designed supply of good Burgundies under $25. Mercurey, but most village wines are expect availability to improve. “Where in the world is there really retailers, it is that the arrival of a good to compete in superstores It’s easier with white wines than reds. priced beyond that target. good Pinot Noir for under $25?” Halbert $25 Burgundy in the store has become with varietal wines from South There are more than twice as many Halbert says many wines says. “I don’t think it offers a lot of value an event worth broadcasting to your America. bottles of white Burgundy imported like those—smaller producers’ in the lower price ranges.” customers along with a recommendation to the U.S. than red Burgundy, Bourgogne appellation reds— ❂ Halbert believes the best value to act with urgency. The best reds I had were entry- and price range may be part of were good values in the past, level Bourgogne appellation in Burgundy these days are village- “The same Bourgogne Pinot Noirs the reason. Nearly two-thirds of but now those wines are in such wines from smaller producers, level wines priced from $30 to $50. that we used to get 40 or 50 cases of, imported Burgundies traditionally demand that prices have risen Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau “Very often the village wines offer the we’re getting allocated 15 cases now,” could be expected to fit a bargain out of the bargain category. (imported by Margate Wine most satisfaction,” Halbert says. “The Halbert says. “Sometimes I get five cases category, namely those with the “Neil Rosenthal and Kermit & Spirit Co.) and Louis Max Premier and Grand Cru wines are too and I just bring it into the store and entry-level Bourgogne appellation Lynch offer a lot of great values “Beaucharme” (imported by tight to drink right away. The village whoever gets there first, they buy it.” or the general Mâcon appellation. from small producers,” Halbert Slocum & Sons). But many of those wines cost a lot Jean-Charles Boisset wants easier access to wines drink well and a lot of them are But that urgency also applies to says. “The problem is that they the Burgundy category, via wines under $25 more than they used to. ageworthy too. A lot of these wines are retailers. “My job is to buy Burgundy,”

24 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access wiNeFocus

Brothers Xavier (seated) and Jérome Garnier, seen here with their father Joseph, make fantastic Chablis at surprisingly affordable prices.

“In Burgundy, there’s no place to plant Halbert says. “I have to buy it when it’s any more. The size is the size,” says Boisset. offered to me. If we come up short on a “I recommend that stores that are few bottles of Bordeaux, there’s always interested in selling Burgundy, they opportunities. Burgundy, forget it. It’s really plan with people like us from that not possible.” ■ region. Planning is more important than ever. Because if they don’t, they won’t have all the wines all the time. Demand for Burgundy is growing a Few GeNeral and we have some short vintages. It’s oBservatioNs becoming much more of an allocation business than ever before.” ❂ Chablis, the most respected Perhaps because of his interests Burgundy appellation that one in California, where he owns brands can buy under $25 SRP, is including Buena Vista, DeLoach and The arrival of a good easily the best source of value. Raymond, Boisset has a more global $25 Burgundy in the Some of these wines are terrific, perspective than most Burgundians. He like Domaine Garnier & Fils, believes it’s important for Burgundy to store has become imported by Martine’s Wines. keep making wines at entry-level prices. an event worth “To think that Burgundy is only a ❂ Olivier Leflaive, imported by $75 wine, that is the wrong perspective,” broadcasting to your Frederick Wildman & Sons, Boisset argues. “It’s important to get customers along with does nice entry-level Bourgognes people into the category of Burgundy, in both red and white that are to find wines at $18 or $20 that are a recommendation to better value than most village- level wines. very good value if you compare with a act with urgency. Russian River Valley wine.” ❂ Some entry-level wines have the That idea of comparison is part of words "Chardonnay" and "Pinot the problem. It’s hard to tell clients very good quality, but they just sit there Noir" written very prominently, that a Pinot Noir from Chile is a good with Burgundy itself downplayed substitute for red Burgundy (even because people don’t want to pay a few dollars more.” (only Bourgogne-appellation though sometimes it is). And wines wines can use these grape from other good Pinot Noir regions, variety names on the front label like Oregon or Central Otago or the the holy Grail at all). I found those wines Sonoma Coast or the Sta. Rita Hills, If there is a bright spot in the ongoing among the least appealing. aren’t cheap. bargain Burgundy market squeeze for It’s possible they are designed “Where in the world is there really retailers, it is that the arrival of a good to compete in superstores good Pinot Noir for under $25?” Halbert $25 Burgundy in the store has become with varietal wines from South says. “I don’t think it offers a lot of value an event worth broadcasting to your America. in the lower price ranges.” customers along with a recommendation ❂ Halbert believes the best value to act with urgency. The best reds I had were entry- level Bourgogne appellation in Burgundy these days are village- “The same Bourgogne Pinot Noirs wines from smaller producers, level wines priced from $30 to $50. that we used to get 40 or 50 cases of, Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau we’re getting allocated 15 cases now,” “Very often the village wines offer the (imported by Margate Wine most satisfaction,” Halbert says. “The Halbert says. “Sometimes I get five cases & Spirit Co.) and Louis Max Premier and Grand Cru wines are too and I just bring it into the store and “Beaucharme” (imported by tight to drink right away. The village whoever gets there first, they buy it.” Slocum & Sons). wines drink well and a lot of them are But that urgency also applies to ageworthy too. A lot of these wines are retailers. “My job is to buy Burgundy,”

February 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 25 bartalk Split DeciSion for jim kearns, two nyc bars represent two different worlds

By alia akkam

s head bartender of New york’s The Happiest Hour and Tijuana Picnic, Jim kearns a bar that was fun and that offered guests spends his nights making drinks like the What The Doctor Ordered (sarsaparilla, a range of simple, easily recognizable vanilla, wintergreen, soda and choice of rye, aged rum or Scotch) at the former, food and drinks, done well, with friendly, and the Smokin’ maid (mezcal, cucumber, mint, lime, agave) at the latter. accommodating service and pricing. A tbn: As for Tijuana Picnic, what was the beverage network: The Hap- jk: Our focus at The Happiest Hour was to your goal with the drink program piest Hour and Tijuana Picnic are two create a bar that recalls a time when going there? With cocktails like the Mi wildly different concepts. How do you out was a fun escape from your daily Hermano (tequila, Averna, Fernet balance the beverage programs of two routine. We felt strongly that people could Branca, Dolin Rouge, mole bitters) newcomers with unique focuses? paving the way to skirt steak and still have good, well-made drinks and not pickled vegetable soft tacos, it seems be told what they should and shouldn’t jim kearns: I like thinking about dif- like there is a desire to delve way drink. At the end of the day, service is ferent things in different ways. They’re beyond the Margarita. about giving people what they want, and very different programs, so I approached we wanted to bring that into focus. them from different perspectives. Tijuana jk: The goal was to use Latin flavors

Picnic is meant to be a list of creative and spirits, largely mezcal and tequila, to tbn: Were there challenges in create cocktails that are at once simple twists on classics using a range of Latin dreaming up cocktails that are at once and creative. There are a lot of little spirits and ingredients; The Happiest balanced and versatile to adapt to the Hour is meant to be an accessible menu addition of different spirits? surprises, which is always a lot of fun when that captures a bygone era. I also love to building a menu. I also wanted to make a collaborate, and my collaborators were jk: The list was fun to create because the cocktail list that would pair well with food, different for each menu. At Tijuana Pic- flavors are pretty straightforward. It was particularly the flavors and ingredients on nic I had the opportunity to work with my interesting because the creative process the menu. The response has been good longtime friend and consulting partner was mostly focused on coming up with so far, and we still have more drinks to Lynnette Marrero, and on the Happiest the base ingredients for the drinks, and introduce, which is exciting. Hour I worked with Karen Fu, one of my then figuring out which spirits would make tbn: Between all the years you’ve bartenders at both Prime Meats and the the most sense with them. The tastings of spent bartending and all the drink the signature drinks were mostly virgin or NoMad. I had never workshopped an en- programs you’ve created, what is the tire drink list with her before. Both were a low-alcohol cocktails. hospitality ethos you’ve embraced lot of fun, and I’m happy with the results. that cuts across all bar genres and tbn: New York is saturated in bars of demographics? tbn: So much of The Happiest Hour all stripes. What void did The Happiest Hour fill? It’s packed every single revolves around the guest’s freedom jk: I always make sure to smile at night, so you’re doing something right and spotlighting what they really want people and try my hardest to give them to drink, not what they are expected beyond serving a good burger. what they want as quickly as possible— to. What was your thought process behind letting them customize each jk: The idea was pretty simple: Jon [co- ideally before they even know they want drink to their preferred spirit? owner Jon Neidich] and I wanted to create or need it. ■

26 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access

w craft: what’s•in•a•name?

As ‘craft’ spirits continue to grow, the term itself comes under fire

BY RYAN MALKIN

raft—to the surprise of no one in the industry—is Kentucky. Instead, the plaintiffs claim all hot. Last year, American craft spirits sales were up of these products are distilled at MGP, a massive industrial complex in Indiana. nearly 50%, according to analysts at GuestMetrics, If not for these allegedly false claims, the while domestic non-craft spirits saw a slight plaintiffs say they would not have paid decline over the same period. higher prices or bought these brands. C In the case of Maker’s Mark, origin is But what are “craft spirits” really, and 2015, also happens to be the subject of not the issue; plaintiffs argue that the how many of them are there? The answer three lawsuits—all of which speak directly brand creates the false impression of depends, of course, on what you mean to the problems that can be created via superior quality by virtue of being labeled by craft. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax terminology. At issue is whether Tito’s “Handmade.” and Trade Bureau (TTB) counts 1,350 misrepresented consumers by stating on Collectively, these class actions—all distilled spirits plants (DSPs) in the the label: “Handmade” and “Crafted in of which are being defended actively by United States. That number is barely an Old Fashioned Pot Still by America’s the brand owners—suggest that 2015 may relevant, though: a supplier does not need Original Microdistillery.” Plaintiffs claim be the year that craft spirits get dragged to be the distiller to bottle and market a the vodka is not handmade; rather, it is out of the marketing rooms and distilleries spirit as craft. Since it is not a category, “actually made via highly mechanized into the public arena. craft is officially undefined. process devoid of human hands.” The Perhaps “flexibly defined” is a better allegations—which Tito’s vigorously way of looking at it. The Small Distiller disputes—are that the company knowingly The term craft has come to embody not only small Affiliate Membership program of sold this misbranded product to consumers scale and hands-on production and aging, but also DISCUS presently has over 100 members with the intent to deceive them. evocative messaging. in 31 states and continues to grow. The OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The original American Distilling Institute’s “Certified still at Tito’s Handmade Vodka in Austin, TX; the Chopin distillery in Krzesk, Poland; barrels being Craft Database” is nearing 900 brands, PUSHING THE charred in preparation to hold whiskey. originating in 44 states and Canada. LEGAL ENVELOPE CENTER, L to R: Tad Dorda harvesting potatoes GuestMetrics defines craft spirits as And the lawsuits don’t end with Tito’s. at Chopin; separately, he also makes vodkas from brands “(1) produced in the U.S., and (2) Templeton Rye, Tincup American wheat and rye; the pot still remains the small-batch distillers’ tool of choice; Bert Butler “Tito” Beveridge not owned by the top dozen or so largest Whiskey, Angel’s Envy and Maker’s Mark produced only 1,000 cases of vodka in his brand’s spirits suppliers.” Seen through their lens, are also defendants in separate suits. first year, 1997. craft accounts for about 6% of the overall The plaintiffs allege, respectively, that BOTTOM, L to R: Craft spirits are not always spirits industry volume. Templeton is not “small batch” and made distilled by suppliers—they can also be blended from already aged stocks; hand-packing cases of Interestingly, Tito’s Handmade Vodka in Iowa; Tincup is not a Colorado whiskey whiskey at High West, in Park City, Utah; Templeton is the largest craft spirits brand in the with a “unique mash bill;” and Angel’s Rye, based on a Prohibition-era whiskey, is distilled Envy is not “handcrafted and bottled” in in Indiana but bottled in Iowa using local water and GuestMetrics system of data. Tito’s, circa a proprietary formula. w craft•defined

SMALL STILL director of brand education, Chris Patino, big suppliers can “make craft spirits as BEAUTIFUL? long as that production is based on the The image of craft spirits certainly began quality and heritage of their brands, not with the notion of a small distillery with the size of the supplier company.” small production. In part this stems from Meanwhile, small distillers abroad states limits. In Illinois a “craft distiller” are are relegated to the sidelines in most may produce 35,000 gallons; in New craft conversations, strictly based on Jersey it’s 20,000 gallons; and 60,000 their not being American. With three gallons in Washington. Therefore, local, single-ingredient vodkas (potato, wheat, small production has been part of the rye), Chopin Vodka certainly fits the definition of craft since the beginning. craft mold. Owner Tad Dorda, shares a Naturally, many of these distillers, even What’s on the bottle is a critical complement to what’s in the bottle. Seen here: hand-numbering a bottle of kinship with U.S. distillers in terms of Tito’s, started small. Given the explosive Masterson’s Rye, part of the portfolio of 35 Maple “some human involvement and some growth of previously small brands, size Street Spirits, founded in 2012 in Sonoma, CA. human passion.” He believes people will may now be too limiting. pay more if they know the person making Spirits were not first to go through it. It’s certainly easier to visit a domestic these growing pains. Beer struggled first. “If customers believe it is a quality distillery than Chopin in Poland. Still, Echoing the Brewers Association, the product, made by hand, made by an artist, “we are looking for a connection, that American Distilling Institute (ADI) with care, it is a craft spirit,” says Ryan something extra,” he says. identifies three pillars for certification. Dettra, managing director of the Ice Plant Craft distilled spirits: bar in St. Augustine, FL. He says a product can be craft regardless of whether it’s GAINING ATTENTION • have a TTB-approved label stating In the end, of course, this all boils down to blended, distilled from neutral grain spirit, “distilled by,” followed by the name of sales. Craft spirits are selling. At Bottlefork distilled from grain or cane, small batch, or the DSP in Chicago, a farm to table restaurant single barrel. In his view, “marketing has • are no more than 25% owned by operated by Rockit Ranch Productions more to do with whether a spirit is accepted another industry member in addition to its five other venues, as a ‘craft spirit’ [than production].” • produce less than 100,000 proof gallons. customers are being more experimental For Dave Kaplan, co-owner of and ordering craft spirits at dinner. Tellingly, however, ADI has a separate Proprietors, LLC, which operates bars However, when it comes to nightlife and certification for blenders—recognizing such as Death & Co, 151 and Nitecap bottle service, Rockit Ranch president the reality that many artisanal spirits in New York and Honeycut in LA, the Arturo Gomez says the Grey Gooses of (gin and liqueurs in particular) begin definition of craft has evolved. Kaplan the world are still king. “People don’t like with purchased base spirits that are then originally associated craft with being to experiment with bottle service; they purposefully transformed. a small producer. Now he sees craft as are committing to things they know and Perhaps the American Craft Spirits brands having complete control over the trust,” he explains. Association (ACSA) has it right. Rather process. That means, “no matter what the In the off premise, many shops have than defining the term by size limitations, volume, the brand grows or sources the craft sections. Some are are even catering ACSA takes the approach of not defining ingredients, ferments, distills and bottles specifically to craft customers. Just take Ezra’s the term at all, instead adopting a code the product.” He believes that brands that liquor store, also in Chicago. Ezra’s prides of ethics that calls for honesty and buy distillate and redistill “fall outside the transparency from ACSA members. definition of craft.” Care in production process is not necessarily limited by the size of the The American Distilling Institute has set standards to SEEING + BELIEVING certify both craft distillers and blenders—recognizing While the ADI standards of certification supplier. Hangar 1 Vodka’s head distiller, artisanal spirits created post-distillation. emphasize the product’s provenance, the Caley Shoemaker, says distilleries certification itself is designed to help can maintain “the same strict quality market the brand. Craft certificate holders standards as they did when they were can use the ADI seal in promotional making smaller amounts.” The key is to material and on their labels. The stay “focused on quality of craftsmanship certification functions as it would would and authenticity in ingredients.” So with other consumer goods. And it brings can large companies make craft spirits? into the role of perception. According to Pernod Ricard USA’s NEW YEAR, NEW LOOK.

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itself on selling primarily craft spirits. When Perhaps the true definition of craft may, like champion are decidedly collaborative and making a buying decision, owner Parker art, elude us; but we know it when we see it. require an audience and a community to Newman, has a five word checklist to gauge Or perhaps, like art, the concept of appreciate them.” whether a product is craft: “quality, passion, craft is appropriately fluid—and ready to With passionate advocates both innovation, creativity, and genuineness.” be redefined by those serving and selling. on- and off-premise, and with more He tries to find producers making a grain In the case of Fountainhead—a Chicago and more brands being launched by to glass product. Admittedly, he says, gastropub deep and broad in whiskey and entrepreneurs and distillers big and there are always exceptions; but even the beer—the menu declares “craftsmanship” small, the what-is-craft conversation is exceptions are, in Neman’s opinion, “made as their core objective: “It’s in the drinks only going to get louder. Whether “craft with integrity” and not “just another mass- we serve, it’s in the food we make, and spirits” achieve a meaningful standard, produced product.” However, then we’re it’s in the décor we’ve chosen to surround or get watered down à la “greek yogurt,” back to talking about production size. us… [T]he crafts we’ve chosen to remains to be seen. ■

CRAFT: QUESTIONS ABOUND tions like Tuthilltown (bought by William Grant & Sons) and Bulleit (Diageo). And f one thing is evident, it is that Image vs. origin: Who wins? Brand im- Heaven Hill proved that a large firm can craft as a term is being used with age does not always correspond to the be as innovative as any craft operation, greater frequency, in turn raising point of production. To wit, Coors is not creating Bernheim, the first truly new va- I made with Rocky Mountain water; and riety of American straight wheat whiskey more questions than answers. introduced since Prohibition in 2005. Kirin and Beck’s beers sold in America are

How important are degrees of brewed here, not in Japan and Germany. Are labels billboards? Packaging has craftiness? Do farm distilleries, who The recent spate of class-action lawsuits always been critical in spirits marketing, grow, ferment and distill using estate- is clearly pushing spirits suppliers to em- but never more so than among entrants grown ingredients, deserve more “craft brace greater transparency. Templeton in the craft arena. Is moonshine craft? It is cred” than distillers who buy wine or Rye is a perfect example. Co-founder if the label can make its case. Consider a wash for distillation? And what about Keith Kerkhoff explains, “We’ve been very bottle of Black Button Distilling Apple Pie producers who take neutral grain spirits open about Templeton Rye from when we Moonshine, replete with the trademark- then transform them, or blenders who first launched the brand. We combine the pending catch phrase “Live Large in Small start with finished spirits? Interestingly, distilled rye whiskey from MGP located in Batches.” Or the portfolio of 35 Maple for Michter’s, success in curating small Indiana with our proprietary formula and Street, launched in 2012. According to batches of barrel-aged American whiskey Templeton, Iowa water—every drop is company president August Sebastiani: set the stage for them to begin distilling bottled in Templeton, Iowa. To eliminate “Distinctive bottle shapes, batch numbers their own as well. And where does any confusion we have changed the label and labels that evoke authenticity are “local” fit into the spectrum of craftiness? in an effort to be the most transparent some of the embellishments that make a American Harvest Organic Spirit, based brand in the industry.” statement, and add to the visual and tactile in Idaho, it has little local market to speak experience of all of our spirits brands.” of, but the estate-based “field to bottle” Can macro go micro? It happens all the operation, using organic wheat and water time in wine; no one bats an eye when from the Snake River, hits all the right seeing the name Mondavi on a bottle of craft notes. Reserve Cabernet as well as on a $9.99 Central Coast blend. And who questions Why is craft all-American? Most how Penfolds can bottle both Grange and discussions about craft presume an Bin 389? The push for premiumization all-American context. But what about in varied spirits categories has led many American entrepreneurs who go abroad large producers to develop high-end to source artisanal spirits, such as Brenne, micro-batch offerings, such as Absolut’s the Cognac-barrel-aged single malt Elyx and Elit by Stoli in vodka; Diageo’s whiskey sourced by Allison Patel; or the Orphan Barrel Project; and Jim Beam ultra-rare casks tapped by Nicolas Palazzi Signature Craft. Corporate ownership has of PM Spirits? proved to be a real boon for small opera- E L T E R P S H D O E L G H S FIND THEIR CHATEAU

STOCK UP NOW! Contact your DC&E representative for more information.

Tigger

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GOOD WINE HELPING GOOD DOGS PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY ©2015 ROSENBLUM CELLARS, SONOMA, CA / FACEBOOK.COM/CHATEAULAPAWS / @CHATEAULAPAWS ON INSTAGRAM Umbria’s picturesque medieval village of Montefalco taming the beast Producers learn to bring out the elegant side of Sagrantino, Italy’s newest noble grape

By kristen bieler

ontefalco is a very old wine Sagrantino di Montefalco is currently tion all the polyphenols, sugars and al- region with a very new responsible for some of the most stunning cohol—is incredibly tricky. (Sagrantino’s story to tell. The main wines in Central Italy. tannins have intimidated man for centu- character in that narrative ries: There was a law against picking it too Mis a single grape—Sagrantino. Although One of a Kind Grape early in the 1500s for fear that unripe tan- winemaking has been happening in this Despite the medieval walls and 12th cen- nins would render the wine undrinkable.) part of Umbria for over 2,000 years, and tury cobblestone streets, Montefalco There are no shortcuts to ripe tannins, Sagrantino (which means “sacred”) vibrates with a youthful energy—and is believes Devis Romanelli, whose family has long been crafted by Franciscan dotted with new construction. The most has farmed olives in Umbria since the monks into sweet passito wine, it wasn’t visible symbol of the region’s renaissance late ’70s and began bottling their own produced as a serious dry red wine until is the ultra-modern Castelbuono winery, Sagrantino in 2007. Romanelli was the about 40 years ago. built by the Trentino-based Lunelli family, only producer I visited who still had In fact, the grape had all but owners of the sparkling wine brand Fer- grapes on the vine at the end of October; disappeared by the 1970s when a few rari. The structure, designed by the famed he sometimes harvests into November, committed producers resurrected it. sculptor, Arnaldo Pomodoro, is a massive he told me, convinced that Sagrantino Awarded DOCG status in 1992, the gleaming copper tortoise shell—the sym- can handle the extreme ripeness because past few decades have seen a massive bol of patience, power and longevity. it retains naturally high acidity: “Some transformation. Outsiders have flocked Most of the conversation in Montefal- producers pick early and use oak and to this once-sleepy region in Central Italy, co revolves around how to bring out the battonage [stirring the lees back into the bringing investment and know-how from best in Sagrantino, a monster of a grape. wine] to soften the tannins, but if you other parts of Italy and beyond. Just 15 There is literally no other grape like it: want the seeds to be mature, the grapes years ago there were a mere six wineries; miraculously, Sagrantino is not related to need that extra time on the vine.” now there are 74. any other known varietal. A small berry Achieving the right kind of ripeness With quality up dramatically in the with lots of skin and large seeds, it’s one of isn’t simple, says Falesco’s Riccardo last decade, as producers learn how to the most tannic grapes in the world, and Cotarella, who consults throughout harness the grape’s legendary power, controlling those tannins—not to men- Umbria and Lazio and made his first More than 60 new wineries have been established in Montefalco in the past 15 years. Paolo Bartoloni (right) claims his Le Cimate (above) is the most high-tech in the region, featuring solar-paneled roof and touch-screen panels controlling vinification.

Sagrantino in 2006. “Extreme attention to has been steep. When he took over in 1986, vine management is the key to obtaining he replanted the vines to higher density grapes that have polyphenolic ripeness and reduced the use of new French oak in ery in the region,” complete with touch without an excess of sugar ripeness,” he favor of large vats for aging. Like most of screen panels. Though the Bartoloni fam- explains. “We need to guide the grapes the best producers I’ve tasted, Antonelli ily isn’t new to the region, their winery so everything happens in the right time.” hand-picks and only gently presses. He is just three years old, and in addition to Both Romanelli and Cotarella agree that also pumps over during fermentation in his planting unorthodox grapes like Viognier stressing the vines—which brings about gravity-fed winery, in order to avoid excess and crafting a rosé of Sagrantino, Barto- extra sugar and flavor concentration tannin extraction. Steps like these are loni constantly experiments with a wide much desired in most wine regions— just now being practiced on a wider scale range of French and Slovenian barrels would be a disaster for Sagrantino. in the region. with a variety of toasts, sizes and age. One advantage to having so many Even Montefalco’s most historic Sagrantino Finds newcomers in Montefalco is that pro- wineries are revamping their winemaking. its Footing ducers’ hands aren’t bound by long-held Scacciadiavoli (which means “Devil “My first glass of Sagrantino was one of my traditions, and there is a great willingness Banisher” for an exorcism which took th worst memories ever,” says Roberto Paris, to experiment. At the sustainably-run and place here in the 17 century), one wine director at Il Buco, in downtown solar-powered Perticaia, which just com- of the oldest wineries in Montefalco, Manhattan. “It was the harshest wine pleted its 11th vintage, young winemaker switched gears in the late 90s, embracing I’d ever tasted.” Paris has since become Alessdandro Meniconi is working with technology, temperature control and Sagrantino’s most important ambassador small oak barrels and micro-oxygenation French oak. “We decided to restart and in the U.S., turning Il Buco into a to create wines that are softer and more take a more modern approach,” says destination for Umbrian wine (in the approachable young. At Le Cimate win- Liù Pambuffetti, whose family owns the early ’90s when he began, Paolo Bea and ery, 32-year-old Paolo Bartoloni proudly estate. “We are still a traditional winery Arnaldo Caprai were the only Sagrantinos lays claim to “the most high-tech win- and believe in long bottle aging, but imported). “It used to be a lottery to drink wanted our wines to be friendlier and less Sagrantino; what has happened in the last rustic.” The Pambuffettis also craft two 15 years has been astounding.” unusual yet tasty Sagrantino Spumantes. “Sagrantino was not ready for the “We thought, ‘what do we do with young spotlight 15 years ago,” says Filippo Sagrantino vines with northern exposure?’ Antonelli, who runs his family’s winery. The grapes have the perfect pH and “It was too tannic, too green and often too acidity for sparkling wine,” she says. oaked. It’s very different today and we see it can be truly elegant.” The Style Spectrum The Antonelli family, which purchased Discussion over the distinct Sagrantino this 13th century estate in 1881, was styles which have emerged tends to instrumental in Sagrantino’s revival, yet position Arnaldo Caprai and Paolo Bea at opposite ends of a spectrum. Caprai is Filippo himself admits the learning curve Marco Caprai’s family winery is widely credited with reviving serious dry Sagrantino in the 1970s. sagrantino

widely credited with reviving Sagrantino farmed this land since the 1500s, but in the late 1970s, and campaigning for its didn’t produce wine until 1980. Paolo’s DOC status in 1979. Run by son Marco son Giampiero is at the helm today, and today, Caprai is the largest vintner in the has pushed the estate even father in the region, producing 800,000 bottles a year. non-interventionist direction as an active His style is unapologetically modern, right member of the Natural Wine movement, down to his sleek tasting room, the first of which believes in using organically-grown its kind to host visitors in the region. grapes, and adding nothing and removing Giampiero and Paolo Bea represent the non- A whirling dervish of energy, Marco interventionist approach to making Sagrantino. nothing once in the cellar. himself is a tireless promoter for Sagran- “I want to taste the identity of the tino on the global stage, and his precise, with an emphasis on institutional and land,” he tells me. “In every wine, you muscular wines are some of Montefalco’s environmental sustainability, and he has have 80% water, 12-15% alcohol—that most awarded. The family has spent mil- opened a technical school at his winery. last 5-8% is the identity of the land, and lions on research, and it was Caprai’s ex- Caprai has invented trucks which reduce it comes from the seeds, the skins and periments with clonal selection that has spraying by 95%, weather stations to track the juice of the grapes.” Bea uses only provided the region with much of the mold in the vineyard, and GPS devices to natural yeasts present on the grape’s skins Sagrantino vines now cultivated. In the monitor workers. “We must become more to kick-start fermentation, leaves his winery, Caprai is experimenting with new efficient and learn how to produce more wines to macerate with their character- squat tanks which give the grapes 250% with less,” he explains. imparting skins and seeds far longer more skin contact. At the other end of the style spectrum than conventional winemakers, and Caprai’s ambition for the region goes is Paolo Bea. While most producers won’t fine or filter before bottling. “Most far beyond winemaking at this point; debate how to harness, tame or control wines are a construction,” Bea describes. his New Green Revolution aims to the wily Sagrantino grape, Bea takes “They may be good, but they are a transform Italy’s approach to agriculture, a hands-off approach. The family has man-made construction.”

Sagrantinos worth the hunt

Antonelli “Contrario” a beautifully focused wine, with Falesco RC2 Le Cimate Sagrantino IGT: black cherry, anise, pepper and Sagrantino 2009: Sagrantino 2009: Made from younger vines without ripe tannins. (Empson USA) A stunning wine that achieves Dense and rich with licorice and any oak, this bright, fresh wine balance between decadent dark black pepper notes and loads is packed with vibrant fruit and Castelbuono fruit and meat flavors, accents of black fruit, this shows great notes of meat and spice; an Carapace of spice, tar and leather; fine- focus and will no doubt become absolute steal at $20 SRP. (Omni) Sagrantino 2008: grained tannins persist on the more interesting with additional This perfumed red was lengthy, silky finish. (Frederick bottle age. Arnaldo Caprai aged three years in Wildman) Collepiano Sagrantino large casks, hence the Romanelli 2009: terrific fruit purity. Silky Fratelli Pardi Sagrantino 2009: From a blockbuster tannins persist on the Sagrantino 2009: A burly, massive wine that vintage, this is brawny velvety finish. (Palm Bay Notes of coffee and vanilla (thanks still retains a lovely freshness; yet elegant with licorice, Imports) to 18 months in barrique) are floral aromatics give way to black fruit and spice. woven with red berries, spice and concentrated flavors of meat Aged 22 months Colpetrone softened tannins. (Marc and ripe black fruit on the well- in French barrique, Sagrantino 2008: de Grazia Imports) structured palate. it shows powerful From one of the region’s tannins, and a fine core larger estates; also among Perticaia Scacciadiavoli of minerals. (Folio Fine the most affordable. Sagrantino 2009: Sagrantino 2008: Wine Partners) Spicy red berries and Cedary and smoky Extra bottle age adds nice vanilla on the nose and with nice red fruit and notes of leather and earth to full- Bellafonte 2009: concentrated fruit, leather spice notes with a fresh bodied flavors of intense Made with native yeasts and and tobacco on the well- undercurrent of graphite. black fruit and spice; tannins aged in large Slovenian casks, integrated palate. (Total Beverage nicely mellowed. (Selected Bellafonte’s second vintage is (Vias Imports) Solutions) Estates of Europe) LEFT to RIGHT: Thick-skinned Sagrantino grapes; Perticaia’s Guido Guardigli with winemaker Alessandro Meniconi; Hand-harvesting.

“Bea is like the Taliban—he won’t Blockbusters with Grace terroir and a funky earthy quality which compromise,” says Giuseppe Rosati, While big-boned, blockbuster wines make it quintessentially Italian.” wine director at NYC’s The Lamb’s are out of fashion with the sommelier Sagrantino was a hand-sell in the Club. And there is a high price to pay set today, Sagrantino walks the line early days at Il Buco, notes Wine Director when things go wrong: in 2013 and where refinement meets power, offering Roberto Paris, but with 10 producers on 2014, Bea, who refuses to spray cop- nuance, minerality and even grace. “It his list and two by-the-glass offerings, the per, watched all his Sagrantino grapes is a muscular wine, but that doesn’t wine today is a signature of the restaurant. rot on the vine. His conviction—and mean it’s not elegant,” describes Rosati. “I recommend Sagrantino for someone ethereal wines—have made Paolo “My mission is to design wines that fit who likes a big, fleshy Syrah but wants Bea one of the most coveted produc- our restaurant’s food and with dishes something with more interesting layers ers, particularly within the American like ragu pasta and braised lamb, you and flavors,” he says. “Almost 100% of the sommelier crowd. need a wine with some power.” Still, people who try Sagrantino will reorder.” One of my favorite discoveries was Sagrantino is not an easy-drinking Ginsburg lists 15 different Sagran- newcomer Bellafonte, where Milan- wine, he maintains: “If you have not tinos—two by the glass—and they businessman Peter Heilbron hews a tasted a wine like this, you need to represent one out of every 25 bottles sold middle ground between modern and spend time to understand it. Sagrantino at Costata, proof that “if you build it they traditional—embracing technology, will not always win you over on will come,” he says. “Most importers and while using Bea-like techniques (no the first time.” distributors are afraid to take on more filtration, native yeasts, large Slovenian “There is no other wine exactly like it, than one or two, but I have found if you barrels, no filtration) to achieve which can be disorienting at first,” says offer more the market is there.” Sagrantinos of rare complexity. “I Raphael Ginsburg, wine director at Man- Plus, they are competitively priced, he wanted to push Sagrantino farther hattan’s Ai Fiori and Costata. “It’s full believes. “Compared to other full-bodied in terms of elegance and refinement; in body, tannin and fruit yet still shows Italian wines, Sagrantino offers great coming from the north, I brought a value,” says Ginsburg. “A bottle might different sensibility,” Heilbron told me. cost $100 on a list; but you would pay at His solar-powered winery is constructed least $200 for an Amarone, Brunello or a with metal crates filled with stones to Super Tuscan for the same profile.” ensure natural humidity, an idea he took Just one more reason that of Italy’s from Montalcino. thousands of indigenous varieties, Sa- “People from this region don’t know grantino is currently generating some of how special it is—it’s still a very hidden the most excitement. “Producers here part of Italy,” Heilbron describes. Two big today place more emphasis on crafting advantages Umbria has over its far more Sagrantinos with a greater expression of famous neighbor, Tuscany: “Tremendous place and territory, and you can taste this biodiversity—it helps to not have a in the wines,” says Cotarella. “This is ulti- concentration of vines. And land prices mately what will give Umbria the dignity are much less than Tuscany.” Wine director Raphael Ginsburg carries more it deserves.” n than a dozen Sagrantinos on the lists he oversees at Ai Fiori and Costata in Manhattan. NEWPRODUCTS &PROMOTIONS

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BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

ver try a Tiki cocktail with not a drop of rum? Hard to imagine but there it is: the MauserE (Fino, Amontillado and Moscatel Sherries, lime, grapefruit, ginger, grenadine and two types of bitters) on the menu at Donostia, a Basque- style pintxos restaurant in Manhattan. Getting attention for a drink menu today isn’t easy, as a thousand bars seem to bloom every month. But as cocktail culture continues to evolve, those aperitif, lower alcohol drinks like the Mauser that are neither excessively boozy nor overpoweringly complex are attracting curious attention. Tending to offer a more subtle, appetizing experience, and based frequently on Sherry, Port, amari, vermouth or other MARMITE fortified or aromatized wines, BLACK VELVET these drinks provide a different A reduction of Marmite and sort of savory beverage Guinness with Champagne experience. The trend is Duck & Waffle welcoming to both seasoned and neophyte palates, even serving as a bridge cocktail for those who tend to prefer wine. Richard Woods, head Lower-alcohol drinks also provide with Champagne, for of spirit and cocktail development for some operational values—an operator can instance). He says in SushiSamba owner charge almost as much for something like the UK, there’s a Samba Brands, soon to launch Duck & Waffle the Bamboo (dry Sherry, vermouth and growing bartender bitters) as it can for one made with full trend to develop proof spirit. But four Bamboos will leave drinks with flavor and potency profile most guests compos mentis, while that many lower than the punchy stirred drinks Manhattans can set the room aswirl. so popular today. “It’s a good intro into This isn’t a quirk in cocktail culture, but alcohol for those who are not too familiar a step in awareness that not all consumers or those who find it too astringent,” have iron palates and constitutions. It’s easy says Woods. “There is a large number of to make an impression when ingredients people who don’t appreciate alcohol, and include a 100-proof spirit—what’s harder there are merits in adding drinks with low is the merging of more subtle spirits. alcohol to bridge them from non-alcohol Take the menu at the renowned to a full-on alcohol drink.” NoMad Hotel in Manhattan, where At the fine dining outpost Craigie head bartender Leo Robitschek and staff on Main in Cambridge, MA, drinks that host numerous spirit and cocktail events. fall into the lower-alcohol camp have Even non-alcohol is well thought out always been a feature, says Beverage here (basil-fennel house soda, anyone?) Director Jared Sadoian. Sanders’ book here, as well as aperitif cocktails like the helped inspire a separate section of Shuttlecock (Cabernet Franc, Moscatel lower alcohol Sherry– and vermouth-led THE TREND IS Sherry, maraschino liqueur, yellow drinks. “We’re very much a food focused WELCOMING TO Chartreuse, lemon, blackberries mint operation and structure our beverage and orange) and the Sippy Cup (Averna, program to highlight the food. One really BOTH SEASONED AND Vermouth di Torino, ginger and lime). great way to do that is to feature drinks NEOPHYTE PALATES, “Lower proof drinks have been part of and ingredients that aren’t as boozy and the cocktail scene since the first cocktails,” palate crushing as many cocktails can EVEN SERVING AS A says Dinah Sanders, author of The Art of be,” says Sadoian. He commonly hears BRIDGE COCKTAIL FOR the Shim: Low-Alcohol Cocktails to Keep from servers that guests served strong You Level. She cites the Sherry Cobbler cocktails are less apt to have a second THOSE WHO TEND TO as an early version of the quaffable lower- bottle of wine at the table; offering lower PREFER WINE. proof drink once commonly served and alcohol options has helped nudge up now making a return to menus. wine and cocktail sales. A drink like the Sophia Loren (two ounces Aperol, 1 ounce lemon juice and RETRO INGREDIENTS ½ ounce bourbon, with rhubarb bitters), STEP UP created by bartender Kim Roselle, provides It’s been some time since Americans a great example of a recipe that inverts commonly drank Sherry and vermouth, the traditional main/complementary but Craigie on Main’s reputation for spirit proportion, providing the drink taking culinary chances means repeat with body and depth as well as brightness, customers are willing to sample unusual she points out. suggestions, he says. As a result, one of their most popular drinks is Sherry- LIGHTER DRINKS MONTILLA based. Called the Grand Tour, the drink YIELD DIVIDENDS AMANECER is essentially a Margarita with most of the Richard Woods, head of spirit and Donostia, NYC tequila replaced with dry Amontillado cocktail development for SushiSamba Sherry, and has proven successful enough parent company Samba Brands, soon to to make its way onto the standard menu. launch Duck & Waffle in the U.S., lists a Other lower-proof drinks include the number of beer–, wine– and Champagne– Flying Horseman (Chardonnay, Dolin based drinks on his aggressively culinary blanc vermouth, Benedictine, lemon), menu (the Marmite Black Velvet mixes the classic Chrysanthemum (Dolin a reduction of Marmite and Guinness dry vermouth, Benedictine, absinthe, º LOW ALCOHOL COCKTAILS

infused Amontillado, Noilly Pratt Ambre vermouth, black garlic tincture and orange bitters]. For people who are looking more toward savory cocktails and lower proof, these work great.” As is the case at other restaurants with a strong wine program, guests don’t necessarily want powerful cocktails before dining at Dirty Habit. With more than 30 Sherries served, however, getting customers to try drinks DIRTY employing them has gotten DECISION a bit easier. “It’s cool to me Chanterelle mushroom-infused Amontillado, Noilly Pratt Ambre as a bartender to see people vermouth, black garlic tincture get excited about Sherry and and orange bitters Sherry cocktails,” Means says. Dirty Habit, CA “I definitely have put drinks on menus before that SPANNING SEASONAL were more aperitif-style, but this TO SAVORY is the first time I have had to really think On their seasonal drink menu, beer- and about it and base an entire menu on low wine-based drinks have rotated in and out alcohol,” says drink creator and bartender as well, one recently combining bourbon Will Peet. As befits a Basque style with a saison beer and eucalyptus, another restaurant, he eschews French aperitifs mixing red wine with velvet falernum, and Italian amari, employing only wines, lime juice and 12-year-old rum. beers and ciders from Spain. In St. Louis, Taste by Niche lead Lower alcohol drinks are also a logical mixologist Kyle Mathis twice annually fit for operations positioned as healthier creates a new cocktail menu; recent options; at SunCafé in Studio City, CA, lower-alcohol drinks include the Heart cocktails include the Elderflower Bellini of Ruby (Cynar, Fruitlab Jasmine liqueur, (St.-Germain, Peychaud’s bitters, peach absinthe, grapefruit, lime, grapefruit soda purée and Prosecco) and a Michelada and Peychaud’s bitters). His favorite (tomato juice, peppers, lime and spices with new cocktail is the Benelli, mixing pale ale) and the Carosello Cooler (Cynar, Lambrusco with simple syrup, orange oil sour Belgian beer, mint and lemon.) and thyme tincture. Bartender Michael Barret developed At Craigie on Main, Beverage Director Jared “The Benelli has a crisp, aromatic two sangrias that highlight the eatery’s Sadoian notes that offering lower-alcohol quality and is really a take on a options has helped nudge up wine and organic fresh-squeezed juices: the Rosa cocktail sales. Champagne cocktail. We tend toward Grenada Sangria (Languedoc red, more savory drinks, and one way we’re seasonal pomegranate and rosemary) and orange oil) and the Bitter Giuseppe making cocktails slightly lower and the Sidra Blanca Sangria (Sonoma apple (Cynar, Carpano Antica formula sweet keeping bright profiles is cutting down cider, apples, Languedoc white blend, vermouth, citrus bitters). base spirits, say, from instead of one and a cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice). Like with Craigie’s unexpected success half or two ounces to just one ounce and Says Nevin Kumar, SunCafé’s with the Grand Tour, when the lower- increasing the amounts of vermouth or beverage director, the drinks fit well with alcohol Sherry- and vermouth-based drinks aromatized wines,” he says. the lighter fare served, and even with a served at Dirty Habit in San Francisco took While culinary minded operations full liquor license, most of the SunCafé off, bar manager Brian Means was gratified: are leading the way with lower alcohol customers want fresh, organic and only “I love Sherry and I wanted to make drinks, other operations do so by concept light alcohol when dining there. But they cocktails that are interesting using them, or due to license limitations. also want creative and interesting: “We but I was really surprised when people While a full liquor license is possible had a lot of fun playing with beer and really responded so well to the Black Flip at Donostia in NYC, with more than 35 wine, with the template already set up for [bianco vermouth, green Chartreuse, Sherries and eight vermouths by the glass organic and vegan. It was a challenge, but lime and ginger] and to the more savory the original concept was to build from with lower alcohol, the fresh flavors of our Dirty Decision [chanterelle mushroom- low alcohol and stay mainly Spanish. ingredients come through.” ■ CRAIGIE ON MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PIAZZA CRAIGIE ON MAIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? GET THE WHOLE PICTURE

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