Effect of Fabric Properties Used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-Dimensional Shape+
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J. fash. bus. Vol. 17, No. 3:30-47, Jul. 2013 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2013.17.3.30 ISSN 2288-1867(Online) Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape+ Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun* Master, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Graduate School, Ewha Womans University Professor, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University* Abstract In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed. Key Words : decorative element, fabric physical properties, KES, digital clothing system textile materials and the diverse expression of I. Introduction texture are playing pivotal roles in creating novel 2) Aesthetic properties of textile materials are fashion trends. 2013 S/S collections have becoming more important than ever in current shown a multitude of costumes with corsages, fashion and textile industries.1) Innovative use of beads, spangles, and plumes. 3-dimensional effects, + Part of this paper is based on the excerpts of the Master thesis. Corresponding author: Kim Jongjun, Tel. +82-2-3277-3102, Fax. +82-2-3277-3029 E-mail: [email protected] 30 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape such as ‘corsage calling’<Figure 1>, and ‘floating Thus, recent introduction of decorative textile flounce’<Figure 2>, have emerged in the elements emphasizes the gorgeous and collections. Designers including Dries van Noten, three-dimensional look styles. Many designs Loewe, Moncler Gamme Rouge, and Bottega based on handicrafts techniques have emerged Veneta have contributed to the fascinating spring especially in the 2013 S/S Collections. These collections.3) As shown in the 2013 S/S relief effects and drapes are vastly affected by Collections, they applied floral ornaments to their the fabric weaves, finishes, textile properties, works in common endowing them with splendid fiber types, and yarn structures. Therefore, there three-dimensional characteristics. Sheer fabrics are needs to understand the relationships among such as organza, or chiffon, have also been them. employed in the collections to highlight the light 3D apparel CAD systems include the systems and cool breezy feeling given by the materials.4) based on the traditional apparel CAD system5), and the systems based on the computer graphics <Figure 1> 2013 S/S Trend-Corsage3) - http://www.style.co.kr/vogue/ 31 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.17, No.3 <Figure 2> 2013 S/S Trend-Flounce3) - http://www.style.co.kr/vogue/ 10) software systems.6) Current 3D apparel CAD try-on systems. Lee Suyeon prepared actual systems have integrated pattern making, 3D and virtual experimental apparels, and studied on fabric representation, 3D fitting and draping the effective manufacturing methods of the 11) simulation7), and the connection to actual custom tailored apparels. manufacturing process.8) A multitude of studies on the ornamented Great attention has been shown to the clothing have been reported. Jung Kyunghee studies on the fashion and textile materials studied the dress designs adapted by embossed utilizing the 3D digital technologies including 3D materials to impart her works with the relief apparel CAD systems. Lee Seonkyung addressed appearance centered around the tucking 12) the issues of the improvement and supplement methods. Kim Jiyoung reported on the in terms of 3D apparel CAD systems by three-dimensional fashion design by surface analyzing the disparities in the virtual apparel decoration focused on the relief through sewing and the actual counterpart.9) Park Hyunjeong techniques, including ruching ornamentation 13) presented the patterns of knit jackets suitable methods and a few other methods. for the somatotypes and tried to verify the fitting Central to the existing three-dimensional digital of the virtual jackets simulated by the 3D virtual clothing are the design of actual clothing and 32 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape the realistic expression of fabric surface as characterization were made. Fabric stiffness closely as possible, in a rather macro-scale. measurement was implemented using the The decorative elements have generally Flexometer method based on cantilever principle. comprised relatively simple ruffle, or flounce, Based on the results virtual fabrics and even if they were simulated in a three- clothes were simulated using the CLO 3D16), one dimensional surface using the 3D apparel CAD of 3D apparel CAD systems. system. In this study, matching physical characteristics However, since there have appeared of material used in decorating elements, and considerable amounts of exquisite decorative analyzing external appearance using the 3D elements and diverse expressions in the current scanning were performed. In addition, physical fashion collections, the digital virtual clothing property of material was simulated by fabricating counterparts should also encompass the fashion 3D virtual clothes and material. It is expected trend as much as possible. Therefore, in that the study will be a valuable data for attempting the detailed expression of the developing efficiency in fabrication of clothes elaborate fashion elements, it may be helpful to through the three-dimensional digital clothing begin with the characterization of the textile system. properties and the structures of the elements, considering micro-scale approaches. As described above, the relief effects, three- II. Experiments dimensional elements and drapes are vastly affected by the fabric weaves, textile finishing 1. Fabric Specimens methods, textile properties, fiber types, and yarn Eight types of fabric specimens were selected structures. Therefore, it is of prime importance in order to apply the loop type decoration to understand the relationships among the techniques. The specimens comprised of pliable factors and effects. or stiff fabrics with mostly open structure fabrics The properties of selected fabrics will be to allow for the decorative effect. Polyester analyzed, and the appearance changes via the spider weave, polyester chiffon, cotton plain three-dimensional reconstruction on the weave, linen plain weave together with ramie decorative elements will be reviewed in this plain weave, nylon mesh, silk habutai, and rayon study. plain weave fabric specimens were selected for Physical properties of eight materials, which the study. can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more 2. Fabric stiffness measurement sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D Flexometer method(KS K0539) was adopted to 14) scanning. measure fabric properties related to stiffness. In order to examine the physical properties of This is based on the cantilever principle. fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation Measurement involves pushing a fabric specimen 15) System) measurements , comprising tensile, over an edge until one end of the bent bending, shear, compression, and surface specimen touches a specified angle(41.5°). 33 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.17, No.3 Specimens for warp and filling directions were extraction method is based on the prepared. Calculations were made according to ‘Polylinepoints’ function of the Rhino3D the following equations.17) software.21) In order to analyze the appearance of the C(cm) = ..........................................(eqn. 1) decorative element, 2x10cm fabric specimen was C : Drape Stiffness, ㎝ sewn together at the both ends, resulting in a L : length of fabric specimen pushed over the loop shaped fabric ornament. The image of the edge, ㎝ loop type decorative element was captured based on the same method described above. Sf(gf∙㎝ )=C³ × W...................................(eqn. 2) Sf : Flex Stiffness. gf∙㎝ ) 5. Preparation of virtual decorative W : Weight of fabric specimen per unit elements using 3D virtual clothing system area(gf/㎠ ) Employing one of the 3D virtual clothing 3. Measurement using the KES-FB system, CLO 3D, virtual decorative elements system were prepared. Considering the measurement results and the shape profiles extracted from the Physical and mechanical properties of fabrics 3D scanning of actual loop type elements, at low deformation range