Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape+
Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun* Master, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Graduate School, Ewha Womans University Professor, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University*
Abstract
In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed.
Key Words : decorative element, fabric physical properties, KES, digital clothing system
textile materials and the diverse expression of I. Introduction texture are playing pivotal roles in creating novel 2) Aesthetic properties of textile materials are fashion trends. 2013 S/S collections have becoming more important than ever in current shown a multitude of costumes with corsages, fashion and textile industries.1) Innovative use of beads, spangles, and plumes. 3-dimensional effects,
+ Part of this paper is based on the excerpts of the Master thesis.
30 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape such as ‘corsage calling’, and ‘floating Thus, recent introduction of decorative textile flounce’, have emerged in the elements emphasizes the gorgeous and collections. Designers including Dries van Noten, three-dimensional look styles. Many designs Loewe, Moncler Gamme Rouge, and Bottega based on handicrafts techniques have emerged Veneta have contributed to the fascinating spring especially in the 2013 S/S Collections. These collections.3) As shown in the 2013 S/S relief effects and drapes are vastly affected by Collections, they applied floral ornaments to their the fabric weaves, finishes, textile properties, works in common endowing them with splendid fiber types, and yarn structures. Therefore, there three-dimensional characteristics. Sheer fabrics are needs to understand the relationships among such as organza, or chiffon, have also been them. employed in the collections to highlight the light 3D apparel CAD systems include the systems and cool breezy feeling given by the materials.4) based on the traditional apparel CAD system5), and the systems based on the computer graphics
10) software systems.6) Current 3D apparel CAD try-on systems. Lee Suyeon prepared actual systems have integrated pattern making, 3D and virtual experimental apparels, and studied on fabric representation, 3D fitting and draping the effective manufacturing methods of the 11) simulation7), and the connection to actual custom tailored apparels. manufacturing process.8) A multitude of studies on the ornamented Great attention has been shown to the clothing have been reported. Jung Kyunghee studies on the fashion and textile materials studied the dress designs adapted by embossed utilizing the 3D digital technologies including 3D materials to impart her works with the relief apparel CAD systems. Lee Seonkyung addressed appearance centered around the tucking 12) the issues of the improvement and supplement methods. Kim Jiyoung reported on the in terms of 3D apparel CAD systems by three-dimensional fashion design by surface analyzing the disparities in the virtual apparel decoration focused on the relief through sewing and the actual counterpart.9) Park Hyunjeong techniques, including ruching ornamentation 13) presented the patterns of knit jackets suitable methods and a few other methods. for the somatotypes and tried to verify the fitting Central to the existing three-dimensional digital of the virtual jackets simulated by the 3D virtual clothing are the design of actual clothing and
32 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape the realistic expression of fabric surface as characterization were made. Fabric stiffness closely as possible, in a rather macro-scale. measurement was implemented using the The decorative elements have generally Flexometer method based on cantilever principle. comprised relatively simple ruffle, or flounce, Based on the results virtual fabrics and even if they were simulated in a three- clothes were simulated using the CLO 3D16), one dimensional surface using the 3D apparel CAD of 3D apparel CAD systems. system. In this study, matching physical characteristics However, since there have appeared of material used in decorating elements, and considerable amounts of exquisite decorative analyzing external appearance using the 3D elements and diverse expressions in the current scanning were performed. In addition, physical fashion collections, the digital virtual clothing property of material was simulated by fabricating counterparts should also encompass the fashion 3D virtual clothes and material. It is expected trend as much as possible. Therefore, in that the study will be a valuable data for attempting the detailed expression of the developing efficiency in fabrication of clothes elaborate fashion elements, it may be helpful to through the three-dimensional digital clothing begin with the characterization of the textile system. properties and the structures of the elements, considering micro-scale approaches. As described above, the relief effects, three- II. Experiments dimensional elements and drapes are vastly affected by the fabric weaves, textile finishing 1. Fabric Specimens methods, textile properties, fiber types, and yarn Eight types of fabric specimens were selected structures. Therefore, it is of prime importance in order to apply the loop type decoration to understand the relationships among the techniques. The specimens comprised of pliable factors and effects. or stiff fabrics with mostly open structure fabrics The properties of selected fabrics will be to allow for the decorative effect. Polyester analyzed, and the appearance changes via the spider weave, polyester chiffon, cotton plain three-dimensional reconstruction on the weave, linenplain weave together with ramie decorative elements will be reviewed in this plain weave, nylonmesh, silk habutai, and rayon study. plain weave fabric specimens were selected for Physical properties of eight materials, which the study. can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more 2. Fabric stiffness measurement sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D Flexometer method(KS K0539) was adopted to 14) scanning. measure fabric properties related to stiffness. In order to examine the physical properties of This is based on the cantilever principle. fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation Measurement involves pushing a fabric specimen 15) System) measurements , comprising tensile, over an edge until one end of the bent bending, shear, compression, and surface specimen touches a specified angle(41.5°).
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Specimens for warp and filling directions were extraction method is based on the prepared. Calculations were made according to ‘Polylinepoints’ function of the Rhino3D the following equations.17) software.21) In order to analyze the appearance of the C(cm) = ...... (eqn. 1) decorative element, 2x10cm fabric specimen was C : Drape Stiffness, ㎝ sewn together at the both ends, resulting in a L : length of fabric specimen pushed over the loop shaped fabric ornament. The image of the edge, ㎝ loop type decorative element was captured based on the same method described above. Sf(gf∙㎝ )=C³ × W...... (eqn. 2) Sf : Flex Stiffness. gf∙㎝ ) 5. Preparation of virtual decorative W : Weight of fabric specimen per unit elements using 3D virtual clothing system area(gf/㎠ ) Employing one of the 3D virtual clothing 3. Measurement using the KES-FB system, CLO 3D, virtual decorative elements system were prepared. Considering the measurement results and the shape profiles extracted from the Physical and mechanical properties of fabrics 3D scanning of actual loop type elements, at low deformation range were measured using simulation process was adjusted in order to the KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, reconstruct the actual shape as closely as compression, and surface properties were possible. For each fabric specimen, two types measured.18) of virtual decorative element were prepared. 5x5cm square corners were pinned down, and 4. 3D scanning 2cm inner seam was created. Subsequently, 2x10cm rectangle was prepared for the Three-dimensional shape of the decorative simulation. object, especially pliable textile fabric object, is Virtual clothing was prepared using the CLO generally difficult to define. Therefore, it is 3D system. Based on the design employing necessary to measure the surface shape of the decorative elements, the appearance changes fabric object without mechanical contact. 3D due to the characteristics of the fabric scanning based on a structured light method specimens. Each specimen was scanned, and 19) was employed in the measurement. A processed through the use of the Adobe monochromatic CCD camera and a projector Photoshop. Physical property values were (DLP type, native pixels 1024x768) were applied to each pattern. connected to a PC for the measurement and ‘Free Sewing’ and ‘Line Sewing’ functions22) analysis.20) were used to sew the cut fabrics. The patterns Image of fabric specimen mounted on the were aligned with the virtual model in the center Flexometer tester were captured and saved as as shown in . OBJ format. The OBJ files were imported into The patterns were simulated to form a final the Rhino3D software in order to extract x, y, z 23) virtual clothing as shown in . values in a Cartesian coordinate system. The
34 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape
Making virtual fabric decorative elements– type 2.
36 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape
Pattern design.
Sewing.
3D simulation.
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III. Results and Discussion for PC. The drape stiffness of filling direction values show the highest for MP, and the lowest 1. Physical properties for NM. Since the C value, derived from the drooping length L, is highly dependent on the Fabric stiffness (Drape stiffness: C, Flex weight of the specimen, the results depend Stiffness: Sf), weight per unit area, thickness, highly on the weight per unit area
. and air-permeability were measured as in
. in the order of MP>LP>PS>RP>CP>SH>PC=NM. Since the specimens PS and NM are extremely MP shows the highest, while PC and NM show porous, the air-permeability values exceed the the lowest values. Filling direction values are in measurement limit of the instrument. Since the the order of MP>PS>LP>CP>SH>RP>PC>NM. The shape of loop type decorative element is highly flex stiffness is regarded as the stiffness feeling related with the fabric bending or stiffness to the touch, while the drape stiffness represent properties, data analysis will be centered around the drooping length, which is visually these results. recognizable. MP made of ramie fiber gives the Drape stiffness(C) of specimens were stiffest feeling to the touch, and LP gives the measured for front/reverse side, and warp/filling second stiffest feeling. directions. The values were averaged for each specimen. The drape stiffness of warp direction values show the highest for MP, and the lowest
Mechanical characteristics of samples used for experiments
38 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape
Drape stiffness (cm).
2. KES Measurement result high correlation coefficient of 1.00. MP values are, in this correlation case, in line KES-FB measurement results are shown in with the general correlation trend, both in warp . and filling directions. Bending rigidity values for warp direction are in the order of MP>LP>PS>RP>CP>SH>NM>PC. 3. Shape analysis based on the 3D MP shows the highest, while PC shows the lowest. B2 values are in the order of scanning MP>PS>LP>CP>SH>PC>RP>NM. Each specimen was cut to the size of 2x10cm The relationship between the B values of KES in warp direction. Both ends of the specimen measurement and C and Sf values measured was sewn together. The vertical shape of the using Flexometer were analyzed. loop specimen was scanned using the 3D B1 and C(warp) values show high correlation scanner. Data file was save as OBJ file format. coefficient of 0.93. B2 and C(filling) also show The surface contour of the scanned object was hight correlation coefficient of 0.90. plotted on a chart using Excel software. Interesting point to note is that MP values, both shows the profiles of the sewn warp and filling directions, are stray points from loop type decorative elements. The highest the general trend line. This seems to be related points of the loop shape lines were measured in with the fact that MP, ramie fiber, is the stiffest x and y coordinates. The shape trend shows in fabric specimen. the order of LP>MP>CP>PS>SH>RP>PC>NM. The B1 and Sf(warp) values show high correlation order is similar to the trends of bending rigidity coefficient of 1.00. B2 and Sf(filling) also show and Flexometer test results. Minor differences
Correlation between drape stiffness and bending rigidity
Correlation between flex stiffness and bending rigidity. may be attributable to the fact that the length of the highest points of the specimens and the C, drape the loop is shorter than the Flexometer stiffness, shows 0.67. Therefore, the 3-dimensional measurement scheme. effect and the physical properties of fabric specimens As shown in , the correlation between are highly related as shown in the results.
42 Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun / Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape
Profile of surface of 3D scanned objects, 2㎝ ×10 ㎝ .
Correlation between drape stiffness and the highest point of 3D scanned objects.
The study results are summarized as follows:
shows two selected simulation and 1) Flex stiffness of the warp direction values actual images of the decorative elements. are in the order of MP>LP>PS>RP>CP>SH>PC= Simulation results show that virtual images and NM. MP shows the highest, while PC and NM actual images are similar in general. However, show the lowest values. Filling direction values there were difficulties in reproducing the are in the order of MP>PS>LP>CP>SH>RP>PC> appearances in the cases of highly sheer fabric NM. The flex stiffness is regarded as the materials, such as PS and NM. Reproducing less stiffness feeling to the touch, while the drape sheer fabric materials was not demanding.
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Comparison with actual fabric and virtual fabric
PS-Actual Fabric PS-Virtual Fabric
PC-Actual Fabric PC-Virtual Fabric
stiffness represent the drooping length, which is of 0.93. B2 and C(filling) also show high correlation visually recognizable. MP made of ramie fiber coefficient of 0.90. Interesting point gives the stiffest feeling to the touch, and LP to note is that MP values, both warp and filling gives the second stiffest feeling. directions, are stray points from the general 2) Bending rigidity values for warp direction trend line. This seems to be related with the are in the order of MP>LP>PS>RP>CP>SH>NM> fact that MP, ramie fiber, is the stiffest fabric PC. MP shows the highest, while PC shows the specimen. lowest. B2 values are in the order of 4) From the profile analysis of the sewn loop MP>PS>LP>CP>SH>PC>RP>NM. type decorative elements, the highest points of 3) The relationship between the B values of the loop shape lines were measured in x and y KES measurement and C and Sf values measured coordinates. The shape trend shows in the order using Flexometer were analyzed. B1 and C of LP>MP>CP>PS>SH>RP>PC>NM. The order is (warp) values show high correlation coefficient similar to the trends of bending rigidity and
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Flexometer test results. Minor differences may of the textile properties and the structures of the be attributable to the fact that the length of the elements, considering micro-scale approaches. loop is shorter than the Flexometer measurement The properties of selected fabrics have been scheme. examined, and the appearance changes via the three-dimensional reconstruction on the decorative elements will be reviewed in this IV. Conclusion study. Physical properties of eight materials, which The recent development of computer graphics, can be utilized on a par with current fashion IT technology, and digitalization have helped to trend, have been specified. For more reshape the modern textile and fashion sophisticated investigation, external appearance industries. The 3D apparel CAD system has of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. been developed from 2D system into a system In order to examine the physical properties of providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation determined as an activity of designers using the System) measurements, comprising tensile, tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its bending, shear, compression, and surface designed clothes in the virtual space of characterization were made. Fabric stiffness computer. measurement was implemented using the Innovative use of textile materials and the Flexometer method based on cantilever principle. diverse expression of texture are playing pivotal As demonstrated from the experimental results, roles in creating novel fashion trends. Recent the relationships between the appearance fashion collections have shown a multitude of changes and three-dimensional effects and the costumes with 3-dimensional effects. differences in the fabric physical properties, In this study, physical properties of eight fabric weave types, yarn construction have been materials, shown in current fashion shows, have studied. One interesting thing to note is that the been selected. For more detailed investigation, physical examination data are described external appearance of the material was including data of directional properties, that is, investigated by 3D scanning. warp/filling directions, which may provide Central to the existing three-dimensional digital important simulation data for the possible refined clothing are the design of actual clothing and system in the future version of 3D digital the realistic expression of fabric surface as clothing software systems. closely as possible, in a rather macro-scale, Based on the results virtual fabrics and which also include relatively simple ruffle, or clothes were simulated using the CLO 3D, one flounce, even if they were simulated in a of the currently available 3D apparel CAD three-dimensional surface using the 3D apparel systems. CAD system. In this study, matching physical characteristics Therefore, in an attempt to implement the of material used in decorating elements, and detailed expression of the elaborate fashion analyzing external appearance using the 3D elements in three-dimensional digital clothing, it scanning were performed. In addition, physical may be helpful to begin with the characterization property of material was simulated by fabricating
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