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AMERICA's ANNEXATION of HAWAII by BECKY L. BRUCE
A LUSCIOUS FRUIT: AMERICA’S ANNEXATION OF HAWAII by BECKY L. BRUCE HOWARD JONES, COMMITTEE CHAIR JOSEPH A. FRY KARI FREDERICKSON LISA LIDQUIST-DORR STEVEN BUNKER A DISSERTATION Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of History in the Graduate School of The University of Alabama TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA 2012 Copyright Becky L. Bruce 2012 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ABSTRACT This dissertation argues that the annexation of Hawaii was not the result of an aggressive move by the United States to gain coaling stations or foreign markets, nor was it a means of preempting other foreign nations from acquiring the island or mending a psychic wound in the United States. Rather, the acquisition was the result of a seventy-year relationship brokered by Americans living on the islands and entered into by two nations attempting to find their place in the international system. Foreign policy decisions by both nations led to an increasingly dependent relationship linking Hawaii’s stability to the U.S. economy and the United States’ world power status to its access to Hawaiian ports. Analysis of this seventy-year relationship changed over time as the two nations evolved within the world system. In an attempt to maintain independence, the Hawaiian monarchy had introduced a westernized political and economic system to the islands to gain international recognition as a nation-state. This new system created a highly partisan atmosphere between natives and foreign residents who overthrew the monarchy to preserve their personal status against a rising native political challenge. These men then applied for annexation to the United States, forcing Washington to confront the final obstacle in its rise to first-tier status: its own reluctance to assume the burdens and responsibilities of an imperial policy abroad. -
Sew Any Fabric Provides Practical, Clear Information for Novices and Inspiration for More Experienced Sewers Who Are Looking for New Ideas and Techniques
SAFBCOV.qxd 10/23/03 3:34 PM Page 1 S Fabric Basics at Your Fingertips EW A ave you ever wished you could call an expert and ask for a five-minute explanation on the particulars of a fabric you are sewing? Claire Shaeffer provides this key information for 88 of today’s most NY SEW ANY popular fabrics. In this handy, easy-to-follow reference, she guides you through all the basics while providing hints, tips, and suggestions based on her 20-plus years as a college instructor, pattern F designer, and author. ABRIC H In each concise chapter, Claire shares fabric facts, design ideas, workroom secrets, and her sewing checklist, as well as her sewability classification to advise you on the difficulty of sewing each ABRIC fabric. Color photographs offer further ideas. The succeeding sections offer sewing techniques and ForewordForeword byby advice on needles, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings. Claire’s unique fabric/fiber dictionary cross- NancyNancy ZiemanZieman references over 600 additional fabrics. An invaluable reference for anyone who F sews, Sew Any Fabric provides practical, clear information for novices and inspiration for more experienced sewers who are looking for new ideas and techniques. About the Author Shaeffer Claire Shaeffer is a well-known and well- respected designer, teacher, and author of 15 books, including Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide. She has traveled the world over sharing her sewing secrets with novice, experienced, and professional sewers alike. Claire was recently awarded the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award by the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC). Claire and her husband reside in Palm Springs, California. -
Taro As the Symbol of Postcolonial Hawaiian Identity ______
Growing resistance: Taro as the symbol of postcolonial Hawaiian identity __________ A thesis presented to the faculty of the Department of Sociology and Anthropology University of Canterbury __________ In partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts __________ by Charles Pipes February 2020 ii iii Abstract Taro is a root vegetable that has held important dietary, spiritual, and social roles with Native Hawaiian culture for centuries. The cultivation and management of the taro plant was a significant foundation of ancient Hawaiian society. Following the 19th century Western colonization of Hawaii, and the ensuing degradation of the indigenous culture, taro cultivation went into a steep decline as a result of land alienation, commercialization, and resources being designated for alternative, non- native crops. In the years following annexation by the United States, there was a growing Hawaiian identity and sovereignty movement. This thesis examines how taro became a potent symbol of that movement and Indigenous Hawaiian resistance to Western hegemony. The thesis will examine taro’s role as a symbol of resistance by analyzing the plant’s traditional uses and cultivation methods, as well as the manner in which Hawaiian taro was displaced by colonial influence. This resistance, modeled after the Civil Rights Movement and American Indian Movement in the United States, used environmental, spiritual, and cosmological themes to illustrate the Hawaiian movement’s objectives. Taro cultivation, encapsulating nearly every aspect of traditional Hawaiian society and environment, became a subtle form of nonviolent protest. To examine taro farming from this perspective, the plant’s socioeconomic, spiritual, and biological aspects will be explored. -
Prosecutions Follow Liquor Raids Made at Interior Points British
WEATHER FORECAST .WHERE. JÛ.JÀ0 IQJUGHT... Jbr J* hours ending 6 p. m . Thursday: Victoria aad • ^tcinlty—Moderate to fresh southerly winds, mostly cloudy and cool with shows» VOL. 61. NO. 39 VICTORIA, B.C., WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 9, 1922 PRICE FIVE CENTS Prosecutions Follow British Light Croiser Raleigh, Known to Victorians, Wrecked in Belle Isle Strait British Ministers ; Liquor Raids Made Take Up Problem of At Interior Points London Conference About Thirty Men Arrested at Penticton, Oliver, Cabinet Called to Meet To morrow to Discuss Differ Oeoyooe, Coalmont, Granite Creek, Ptinceton and ences of Opinion As to Course Affecting Germany; Keremeos; Hearings In Court. Poincare to Consult Colleagues. ■ I -, „• ^ Vi-n:i<(..ii. V>.<\, Aug. 0. Excitement rose to high pitch here ft* i*- London. Aug. 9.—The British (’abinet will meet to-morrow to »when it Iwcnnie known that the residences of D. C. / MU consider the Mtualioji grbwing out of the conference of Allied I. ? j «. Winnipeg Street, and A. Nieol. Fairview Road, had leaders here, it was announced this afternoon. eat 1> <1 liy the municipal police and the owners placed in the It is understood that at the same time Premier Poincare will •pal 1«m knp on eliargi's of contravention of the (iovernment consults with his colleagues. | ; \<t Interest was further stimulated when trucks contain- •> j • »rrel« of hier and other ‘‘wet goods" were seen Jiteing un- .x London. Aug. 9.—As a result of a three-hour conversation be I HR i»«i<le the munieipa! lmilding. Others arrested at the same S gtse . -
Textiles and Clothing the Macmillan Company
Historic, Archive Document Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge, policies, or practices. LIBRARY OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE C/^ss --SOA Book M l X TEXTILES AND CLOTHING THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., Limited LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. TORONTO TEXTILES AXD CLOTHIXG BY ELLEX BEERS >McGO WAX. B.S. IXSTEUCTOR IX HOUSEHOLD ARTS TEACHERS COLLEGE. COLUMBIA U>aVERSITY AXD CHARLOTTE A. WAITE. M.A. HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC ART JULIA RICHMAX HIGH SCHOOL, KEW YORK CITY THE MACMILLAX COMPAXY 1919 All righU, reserved Copyright, 1919, By the MACMILLAN company. Set up and electrotyped. Published February, 1919. J. S. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. ; 155688 PREFACE This book has been written primarily to meet a need arising from the introduction of the study of textiles into the curriculum of the high school. The aim has been, there- fore, to present the subject matter in a form sufficiently simple and interesting to be grasped readily by the high school student, without sacrificing essential facts. It has not seemed desirable to explain in detail the mechanism of the various machines used in modern textile industries, but rather to show the student that the fundamental principles of textile manufacture found in the simple machines of primitive times are unchanged in the highl}^ developed and complicated machinerj^ of to-day. Minor emphasis has been given to certain necessarily technical paragraphs by printing these in type of a smaller size than that used for the body of the text. -
Basic of Textiles
BASIC OF TEXTILES BFA(F) 202 CC 5 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Fiber Study 5-64 2. Fiber and its Classification 65-175 3. Yarn and its Types 176-213 4. Fabric Manufacturing Techniques 214-260 5. Knitted 261-302 UNIT Fiber Study 1 NOTES FIBER STUDY STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Monomer, Polymer, Degree of polymerization 1.4 Student Activity 1.5 Properties of Fiber: Primary & Secondary 1.6 Summary 1.7 Glossary 1.8 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVE After studying this unit you should be able to: ● Describe the Natural Fiber. -
B.Des. (Fashion Design)
Faculty of Architecture and Planning, Integral University, Lucknow INTEGRAL UNIVERITY, LUCKNOW FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE AND PLANNING B.Des. (Fashion Design) Scheme of Teaching, Examination & Syllabus (Session 2020-21) Faculty of Architecture and Planning, Integral University, Lucknow INTEGRAL UNIVERSITY, LUCKNOW B. DES. (Fashion Design) SCHEME OF TEACHING AND EXAMINATIONS B.Des.: I Semester w.e.f. 2020 -2021 Continuous Exam Teaching Exam & Subject Subject Assessments Examination Marks Time Subject Name Credits Sessional Code Category Hours/ Periods Marks (Hr) L Tu St/P Total T P/V Total BD101 PC Theory of Design-I 2 1 3 3 50 50 50 100 3 BD102 CF Ergonomics 2 1 3 3 50 50 50 100 3 BD103 CF Civilization Culture & Fashion 1 1 2 2 50 50 50 100 3 BD104 PD Communication skills 1 1 2 2 60 40 40 100 3 BD105 CF Sketching 1 2 3 3 60 40 40 100 - BD106 CF Visualization and Representation-I 1 4 5 3 60 40 40 100 - BD107 CF Model Making/ Workshop 1 3 4 3 60 40 40 100 - BD108 CF Basic Design-I 2 6 8 5 50 50 50 100 3 Total Credit’s Total 11 4 15 30 24 800 GRAND TOTAL Notes: A semester contains approximately of 16 working weeks (90 workdays) each. The examinations of all subjects are conducted at the end of the semester. The viva-voce and practical examinations of subjects are jointly conducted by two examiners: one internal and one external. Abbreviations: L = Lectures; Tu = Tutorial; St/P = Studio/Practical; T = Theory; P/V = Practical/Viva-voce, PC = Professional Core; CF = Core Foundation; DE = Departmental Elective; PD = Professional Development; HS = Human Sciences; AC = Applied Compulsory Course; BS = Building Sciences; OE = Other Departmental Elective; PE = Professional Elective Faculty of Architecture and Planning, Integral University, Lucknow INTEGRAL UNIVERSITY, LUCKNOW B. -
Effect of Fabric Properties Used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-Dimensional Shape+
J. fash. bus. Vol. 17, No. 3:30-47, Jul. 2013 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2013.17.3.30 ISSN 2288-1867(Online) Effect of Fabric Properties used for the Loop Type Decorative Elements on the 3-dimensional Shape+ Ko Youngmin․ Kim Jongjun* Master, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Graduate School, Ewha Womans University Professor, Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University* Abstract In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed. Key Words : decorative element, fabric physical properties, KES, digital clothing system textile materials and the diverse expression of I. -
0X0a I Don't Know Gregor Weichbrodt FROHMANN
0x0a I Don’t Know Gregor Weichbrodt FROHMANN I Don’t Know Gregor Weichbrodt 0x0a Contents I Don’t Know .................................................................4 About This Book .......................................................353 Imprint ........................................................................354 I Don’t Know I’m not well-versed in Literature. Sensibility – what is that? What in God’s name is An Afterword? I haven’t the faintest idea. And concerning Book design, I am fully ignorant. What is ‘A Slipcase’ supposed to mean again, and what the heck is Boriswood? The Canons of page construction – I don’t know what that is. I haven’t got a clue. How am I supposed to make sense of Traditional Chinese bookbinding, and what the hell is an Initial? Containers are a mystery to me. And what about A Post box, and what on earth is The Hollow Nickel Case? An Ammunition box – dunno. Couldn’t tell you. I’m not well-versed in Postal systems. And I don’t know what Bulk mail is or what is supposed to be special about A Catcher pouch. I don’t know what people mean by ‘Bags’. What’s the deal with The Arhuaca mochila, and what is the mystery about A Bin bag? Am I supposed to be familiar with A Carpet bag? How should I know? Cradleboard? Come again? Never heard of it. I have no idea. A Changing bag – never heard of it. I’ve never heard of Carriages. A Dogcart – what does that mean? A Ralli car? Doesn’t ring a bell. I have absolutely no idea. And what the hell is Tandem, and what is the deal with the Mail coach? 4 I don’t know the first thing about Postal system of the United Kingdom. -
Act Is Made Illness of Ten Years Salute New Null and Void Panama Flag
mmm jj f WEATHER FORECAST FOR TODAY. I f SUGAR--96 Teat Centrifugals, 3.75 r Light northerly winds and ftir weather, j T cents. t . r ESTABLISHED JULY 2, 185&. 4 t 4 t 4 EDL. XXXVIII. NO. 6640. HONOLULU, HAWAII TERRITORY, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1903. PRICE FIVE CENTS PART OF COUNTY DEATH OF MRS. HIRAM AMERICANS BINGHAM AFTER AN ACT IS MADE ILLNESS OF TEN YEARS SALUTE NEW NULL AND VOID PANAMA FLAG 1 : I The Supreme Court Expunges the Imposing Ceremonies Mark the Full d Proposed Board of Public Recognition of the Young Institutions. Republic. fl Legality of Whole Act Not Considered Grounds Dominican Insurgents Fire on an American of Decision Are That Act Embraces Steamer The Texan Makes a Record Run. More Than One Subject. Gen. MacArthur Coming to Honolulu. 'V..- - S "'V The Board of Public Institutions created by the County Act is (ASSOCIATED PRESS CABLEGRAMS.) no more. Aesterday afternoon the Supreme Court rendered a PANAMA, Nov. 18. The United States cruiser Marblehead unanimous decision making the County Act, so ar as it relates to hoisted the flag of the new republic and saluted with 21 guns. the Board of Public Institutions, null and void. it A Superintendent Henry E. Cooper, it happens, has officially lived Panama gunboat and the forts reciprocated by raising and saluting just long enough to enjoy one evening's triumph over the Legisla- the American flag. After the ceremonies Rear Admiral Glass offi- ture's to deprive the THE LATE MRS. BINGHAM AND HER HUSBAND, THE REV. well-wishe- attempt Superintendent of Public Works of the cially called on the Junta and expressed his s. -
Margaret Todd the Watumull Founda'i'ion Oral History
MARGARET TODD THE WATUMULL FOUNDA'I'ION ORAL HISTORY PROJECT Margaret Todd (1888 - ) In 1909 Miss Todd's father, Robert Todd, brought his wife and family to Hawaii from their native Scotland. An experienced dairy farmer, he had been asked to manage Samuel Mills Damon's home-dairy at Moanalua and, under his management, Moanalua Dairy produced "a prize baby milk" from pure Jersey cattle. At Sam Damon's request, Miss Todd immediately went to work as a clerk in the savings department of Bishop and Company bank (now First Hawaiian Bank) where she was employed until her retirement in 195). During World War I she became the first woman commercial teller in the Hawaiian Islands. Miss Todd, a born storyteller, has been an alert and astute observer of the social, cultural, and historical developments in Hawaii throughout her years here. Her recollections are a source of varied information about Scotland and Hawaii; about people and their interests; about events and their circumstances. Katherine B. Allen, Interviewer ~ 1979 The Watumull Foundation, Oral History Project 2051 Young Street, Honolulu, Hawaii, 96826 All rights reserved. This transcript, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without the permission of the Watumull Foundation. INTERVIEW WITH MISS MARGARET TODD At her Manoa home, 2625 Anuenue Street, Honolulu, 96822 June 6, 1972 T: Margaret Todd A: Kathy Allen, Interviewer T: I was born on August 6, 1888 on a little farm where my fa ther worked that was quite well-known in Scottish history, not because I was born there, but because Drochil Castle, built by the Earl of Morton, was right by that farm on the same grounds. -
Hawaii SAR History
THE HAWAll. SOCIETY SONS OF THE I .... AMERICAN REVOLUTION CENTENNIAL HISTORY 1895-1995 ------~---- ,,,,: (This page is blank) • • HAWAII SOCIETY SONS ' OF THE AMERICAN • REVOLUTION ' CENTENNIAL HISTORY • 1895-1995 • Compiled • By Raymond Earl Woodstock HISSAR Historian • June 1995 • • • • • • (This page is blank) • • • • • • • TABLE OF CONTENTS • Title Section ----------------------------------------------- PHOTO OF HISSAR OFFICERS 1995 PHOTO OF RECENT HISSAR PRESIDENTS • NARRATIVE HISTORY A LIST OF OFFICERS B LIST OF MEMBERS: ALPHABETICAL c • BY SAR NUMBER D LIST OF REVOLUTIONARY WAR ANCESTORS: ALPHABETICAL BY HISSAR MEMBER E ALPHABETICAL BY REVOLUTIONARY WAR ANCESTOR E1 • TABLE OF MEMBERS, BY YEAR F CONSTITUTION AND BY-LAWS G SELECTED ADDRESSES & PROCLAMATIONS: H ADDRESS TO THE NSSAR, DATED MAY 22, 1897 • ADDRESS TO THE HISSAR, DATED APRIL 22, 1926 HISSAR CENTENNIAL DAY, 17 June 1995 LET FREEDOM RING DAY, 4 July 1995 SOURCES OF INFORMATION I • DISTRIBUTION J • • I • • • • • • (This page is blank) • • • • • • THE HAWAII SOCIETY • SONS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION OFFICERS FOR 1995 • • • WARREN M. YARBROUGH PAUL D. WINTER JOHN M WILLIAMS PRESIDENT VICE-PRESIDENT SECRETARY • & HISTORIAN & TREASURER • RAYMOND E. WOODSTOCK EDWARD L. MciNTOSH WILLIAM G. BURLINGAME • REGISTRAR CHAPLAIN PUBLICITY CHAIRMAN & MEMBERSHIP • • - . ~ '1··- ' ,, ·~ GORDON L. PICKERING ELWIN L. SPRAY EVERETT C. HIGGINS EAGLE SCOUT AWARDS R.O.T.C. AWARDS LAW ENFORCEMENT • CHAIRMAN CHAIRMAN AWARDS CHAIRMAN • • • • • (This page is blank) • • • • • • • • PHOTO OF PAST AND PRESENT PRESIDENTS OF THE • HAWAII SOCIETY SAR • • • • From Left to Right: • M. ROGER MONSARRAT President 1957 RAYMOND EARL WOODSTOCK President 1988-1989 • WARREN MAURICE YARBROUGH President 1993-1995 EDWARD LEE MciNTOSH President 1990 • JAMES OTHO SANDERS President 1987 • • • • • • (This page is blank) • • • • • • • • • • NARRATIVE HISTORY OF THE • HAWAII SOCIETY SONS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION • • • • • • • • • • (This page is blank) • • • • ..