Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2 Autumn 2008

Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2 Autumn 2008

ISSN 2005-0151

Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2 2008

Vol. 1 No. 2

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2

Cover Story

White was the color of the autumn in an- cient Oriental Philosophy. It is one of the symbolic colors for the five cardinal di-

Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2 rections (see p. 4). The cover design fea- tures the white , an animal usually associated with the autumn, white, and west. The tiger was regarded as a com- passionate guardian that protected - mans from disasters such as fire, flood or storm, and chased away evil spirits.

KOERAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr ) 3 | 4

ADMINISTRATOR’S NOTE WORD ON THE COVER DESIGN

Restoration of Sungnyemun Colors of the Five Cardinal Directions

On February 10 this year the was shocked and grieved to have traditionally believed that the five cardinal directions watch one of their major historical landmarks reduced to ashes. and their symbolic colors influenced their lives. Based on the tra- Sungnyemun, the face of for six centuries, was destroyed ditional Chinese philosophy of Xing (Ohaeng in Korean), all by arson. Since its dedication in 1398 as the main gate to the then natural phenomena, including human life, were seen to interact and walled city of Hanyang, the seat of of the newborn change in a cycle of phases under the influence of directional ener- Dynasty, Sungnyemun has been prized as the No. 1 historical asset gies, each with a set of associations, such as colors, seasons and of ’s capital city. The classical structure shined even more like shapes. a graceful jewel as its surroundings became increasingly crowded with modern highrise buildings.

Numerous citizens visited the burnt gate, shedding tears of pain- ful repentance. They reproached themselves for failing to keep the East was associated with blue, wood, spring, and the power to chase gate. Many people, not only Koreans but foreigners as well, sent evil spirits and invoke blessings; west was identified with white, donations to share the pain and take part in the gate’s restoration. metal, autumn, and innocence, truth and purity; north was symbol- ized in black, water, winter, and wisdom; south was represented by The Korean government, heartened by these sympathetic moves red, fire, summer, passion and creativity. Last but not least, yellow from home and abroad, is working on a detailed plan to restore the stood for the center or zenith, and change of seasons. gate to its original shape. The restoration will be undertaken with the technology of traditional through faithful These five colors permeated Korean folk life. They were broadly study of all available historical sources. Before too long, Sungnye- applied in clothes, architecture, handicrafts, amulets and various mun will regain its old glory. objects for everyday use, remaining indelible in Korean aesthetics until nowadays.

Yi Kun-moo Administrator Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea Autumn 2008 Vol. 1 No. 2

CONTENTS

07 Memory of the World 27 Photo Gallery

Royal Protocols of the Joseon Dynasty Joseon Royal Tombs Records Revived in Digital Files

13 Sungnyemun: Its Past, Present and Future 35 Foreigner’s View

The Fire at Sungnyemun and Its Lessons : The Harvest Moon

19 Natural Heritage 39 A Brush with Lively Touch

Birds in Korean Folk Culture Animal Symbolize Folk Beliefs Adorable Feathered Friends of Man

23 Epitome of Korean Buddhist Sculpture 43 Intangible Heritage

Gilt Bronze Pensive in Half-Seated Posture Festival Revives Millennium-old Customs 7 | 8 Memory of the World

Royal Protocols of the Joseon Dynasty Palace Records Revived in Digital Files

Text by Shin Byeong-ju | history professor at Konkuk Photos by the Cultural Heritage Administration

3

tions. They were primarily intended for use by rate description through words alone. 3. Protocols of the daesarye by King Yeongjo (daesarye: a the throne and concerned offices as references The Joseon royal protocols are now scattered at rite where a king shooting an for organizing similar events. Hence they were arrow after paying respect to several places such as the Kyujanggak Institute called , literally the “exemplary proto- ancestors) of at Seoul National Universi- cols.” 4. Protocols of the state - ty, the Archives at the Academy of neral for Queen Sinjeong (for Among the recorded state and royal household Korean Studies, the Japanese Imperial House- the king’s perusal) events were weddings of kings, investitures of hold Agency and the French National Library. crown princes, feasts and funerals for the royal In 2006 the Korean government nominated the family members and construction of palace pa- entire uigwe collections at the two Korean na- vilions. Detailed records were made on the en- tional archives for inscription on the UNESCO tire procedures of these events and afterwards, Memory of the World Register. In 2007, a to- a temporary office was set up to compile the tal of 2,940 volumes of 546 kinds of Joseon records into a full report. royal protocols at the Kyujanggak Institute of Korean Studies and 529 volumes of 287 kinds What singles out these reports is a strong com- at the Jangseogak Archives were placed on mitment to documentation. The reports fully described the procedures of an event, and listed 1 2 all the participants and logistics as well as left- over goods, thereby ensuring thorough trans- 1. Protocols of the investiture Since June 2008 the Cultural Heritage Ad- land by invading French troops in 1866. Expa- of King Gojong’s two sons (for parency and openness in state management. the king’s perusal) ministration web site has featured digitalized triation of the displaced royal documents has Another prominent characteristic is rich visual 2. Protocols of Gyeongmo Hall palace records of the Joseon Dynasty (1391- been a prominent pending issue between Korea for Crown Prince Jangheon 1910). These fascinating digital files cover part and over the past decades. material, including illustrations and diagrams. (for the king’s perusal) Most of the reports were actually fantastic pic- of some 300 volumes of official records on Official Reports on State Events court events of Korea’s last , which ture books that featured realistic depictions of are currently kept by the French National - The Joseon Dynasty maintained a unique tra- grand processions of officials of all ranks as dition of compiling detailed reports on major well as diagrams of ritual objects and pavilions. brary (Bibliotheque nationale de France). state rites and events in the royal household The colorful illustrations offer vivid glimpses The Joseon palace documents were carried throughout its five-century rule. These reports of the circumstances of the events and the away from the royal archives in Ganghwa Is- were usually accompanied by colorful illustra- equipment and objects used, which defy accu- 4 9 | 10 Memory of the World

Negotiations for Return of Royal Protocols Digitalized Royal Protocols

Most of some 6,000 volumes of books at the The two uigwe volumes brought by the visit- Ganghwa archive were burned. Only about 340 ing French president aroused great interest in volumes of uigwe and some maps were carried their regal of and bookmaking away by the retreating French troops. Most of techniques. They were made of excellent paper the plundered books and documents are pre- and mineral and plant pigments were used for served at the French National Library but clas- illustrations, which all contributed to their per- sified under the Chinese collection. In 1975, Dr. fect conservation. Byeong-seon, a Korean librarian working The Korean government has persistently tried for the library, found they were to persuade the French authorities to return the documents of the Joseon period. She made a list Joseon royal protocols. Since 2001, the Minis- of all the uigwe volumes at the library. Thanks try of Foreign Affairs and Trade has conducted to her efforts, the valuable Joseon court relics surveys on the records kept at the French Na- 5 became known a century after they had been tional Library. In 2005 both sides agreed on taken away. producing digital files from 30 out of the total 5. Protocols of the wedding the UNESCO list of documentary literature of tion under his leadership. In the next century ceremony (for preservation at 297 volumes in the French government posses- “outstanding universal value.” or so the royal archive in Ganghwa took firm The Korean royal documents at the French state archives) sion, that are the only extant copies. The digi- National Library again drew public attention root as a treasure trove of Joseon royal cul- talized protocols are provided through the Cul- Suffering of Palace Documents in 1993, as then French President Francois ture, where the personal profiles and writings tural Heritage Administration web site. Mitterrand said the French government would As one of the first projects upon his accession of kings, official records of court events and return them to Korea. Mitterrand made the re- The digital files include the 30 exclusive copies in 1776, King Jeongjo, the 22nd ruler of the books written by prominent authors were sys- marks during his visit to Seoul to promote the in French collection as well as the original Joseon Dynasty, established Kyujanggak as tematically preserved. Particularly, the uigwe a royal library and palace institution for aca- French high-speed train TGV. France won the covers of 12 volumes. These luxurious editions kept there were special copies produced for re- demic research. When Kyujanggak was set up bid but its leader’s commitment still remains have green silk covers and bronze ornaments view by the kings. completely in Changdeok Palace, he ordered unfulfilled on the grounds that it had not been with the emblem of the Joseon the construction of another royal archive build- However, the royal archive on Ganghwa was officially discussed. The two governments have royal household. Also, the digitalized docu- since undertaken several rounds of negotiations ments include 50 pages from The Protocols of ing on , where he believed the completely lost when a French flotilla invad- on the repatriation of the Joseon royal proto- the Wedding Rites of King Yeongjo and Queen valuable books and documents of the royal pal- ed the island in 1866. The French troops en- cols, with the conclusion not in sight yet. Jeongsun (Yeongjo Jeongsun wanghu garye ace could be preserved in a safer environment. countered fierce resistance from the Joseon In the second month of 1782, the sixth year of army and retreated but carried away 19 boxes 6. Protocols of Shrine the reign of King Jeongjo, the magistrate of and Jongmyojerye Ritual (for of ingots and luxurious copies of royal the king’s perusal) Ganghwa reported the completion of the outer protocols specially produced for perusal by royal archive, named “Oekyujanggak.” It was the kings. Among other archive holdings the 11 months after the king ordered the construc- French soldiers focused on pillaging the royal tion. protocols. They probably discerned the out- Joseon made remarkable cultural advancement standing value of the beautiful books made of under the reign of Jeongjo. Kyujanggak served top quality paper and bound in silk covers with 6 as a bastion of academic research and publica- bronze ornaments. 11 | 12 Memory of the World

7

dogam uigwe), depicting grand ceremonies at- the displaced documents should be returned to 7. Record of Joseon King’s Wedding Ceremony tended by officials of all ranks and files. their place of origin.

The resplendent ambience of palace ceremo- A scene from the wedding ceremony of King Yeongjo and his second nies vividly comes alive even in digital files, wife, Queen Jeongsun, in 1759, this is part of 50-page illustrations for the successfully conveying the uncompromising official record of the royal wedding. The fine brush work by court paint- principle of thorough documentation that ran ers graphically describes the grandeur of a king’s wedding attended by through the Joseon bureaucracy. These files officials of all ranks and files. It is a typical Joseon palace documentary will be useful sources for research in a variety of the 18th century, capturing all minute details of the event. of fields, including the general history of the Coloring and lettering was exceptionally well done as the painting was Joseon period as well as , costume for a special edition for the throne. In many aspects such as brushwork, history and bibliography. As many researchers coloring, paper quality and binding, the edition for king’s perusal clearly find them a crucial trove of knowledge, it will compares with other copies produced for dispersed preservation at state gradually become apparent within and outside archives in different around the country. The exclusive royal edi- the academic community where the invalu- tion of The Protocols of the Wedding Rites of King Yeongjo and Queen able documents should properly belong—why Jeongsun is kept by the French National Library in Paris. 13 | 14 Sungnyemun: Its Past, Present and Future

The Fire at Sungnyemun and Its Lessons

Text by Hyeon | Traditional Architecture Research Division of the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage Photos by the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage / Topic photo Agency

Since its construction in 1398 as the southern gate to the capital of the newborn Joseon Dy- nasty, Sungnyemun, the Gate of Exalted Rites, has been the No. 1 landmark and cultural icon of Seoul. Popularly known as Namdaemun, the Great South Gate, the grand structure served Korea’s last dynasty as a venue for welcoming ceremonies for foreign emissaries, as the main gateway of merchandise from across the nation and as a timepiece. The gate also endured scars of foreign invasions and colonial occupation as well as internecine armed conflict.

1. History of Sungnyemun

The construction of Sungnyemun began in 2 1396 as part of the city planning of Hanyang, viewpoints. It is believed significant changes 1. Sungnyemun before the fire the present-day Seoul. A much smaller walled occurred to the gate and its surroundings as a city back then, Seoul had begun to be built in 2. Sungnyemun in 1904 result. 1394, two years after the Joseon Dynasty was founded. The gate was completed in 1398 and Thirty years later, Sungnyemun was repaired underwent several major repairs over the next again under King Seongjong (1457-1494). Dis- centuries, beginning with one in 1447-1448 un- cussion began on the project in the third month der the reign of Joseon’s fourth , King of 1478, the ninth year of Seongjong, and pal- Sejong (1397-1450). At the time there was de- ace records have it that “the pillars were erect- bate on making a pond near the gate to make ed” in the fourth month of 1479. In the 1860s 1 1 up for the site’s weaknesses from geomantic during the reign of King Gojong (1852-1919), 15 | 16 Sungnyemun: Its Past, Present and Future

the project. The two-story wooden superstruc- 18 months from September 1907 to May 1909, 5. Fire control ture was completely disassembled and recon- leaving the gate alone in the middle of a road. By 6. Interior of Sungnyemun after the fire this time the Joseon government had already been structed, while the stone rampart was partially 7. Sungnyemun after fire recovery placed under the Japanese control. The removal of dismantled and repaired. The technical exper- old city walls was necessary to expand the road in tise acquired through the work proved useful front of the gate for traffic convenience, accord- for later efforts at maintaining ancient archi- ing to the Japanese. But Sungnyemun eventually tectural monuments. Those who participated lost its original shape and vibration from trams in the work led major repair projects on his- passing close by damaged it. torical buildings in the following years.

The Korean of 1950-1953 also wreaked Partial repairs continued to keep the gate in havoc on the gate, the oldest wooden architecture shape through the 1980s and 1990s. In com- in Seoul. The damage was certainly grave as the pliance with popular demands for utilization

3 gate needed emergency repairs in January 1952 of cultural heritage, a park was made around during wartime. After the war ended the gate was the gate in 2005 and the gate was opened to the gate was repaired once again and this time the again repaired and the dancheong paintwork was the public in March 2006. work was done mostly on the roofs and doors. redone from August 1954 to December 1955. But 2. Destruction and Aftermath 5 According to the court annals, debates continued bullet marks remained visible, testifying to the on building a fortification on the outside of the wartime damage. On Sunday, February 10, 2008, a man discon- gate but construction never took place for various tented with society set Sungnyemun on fire at Overall repair of Sungnyemun from 1961 to 1963 reasons. around 8:50 p.m. The arsonist used a ladder marked an important milestone in the nation’s to climb up the stone rampart on the western Sungnyemun changed considerably in the modern conservation history of traditional architecture. In side of the gate and entered the second floor of era. A tramway was laid through the gate in 1899 spite of the dire postwar economic situation top- the wooden pavilion over the gate. He poured and the walls on both sides were removed over class engineers and technicians were recruited for three 1.5-liter bottles of paint thinner onto the 3. Sungnyemun under floor and started the fire with disposable light- Japanese rule ers. The fire was completely extinguished at 4. Sungnyemun before 2:05 a.m., February 11. the fire At first, a plume of smoke engulfed the second- story floor, wrapping around the upper struc- ture of rafters and beams. The blaze seemed 6 to have been controlled at the early stage but it actually had slowly spread unseen into the section above the rafters and mud plaster, where small pieces of wood were stacked to reinforce the roof structure. Then the fire burst out of control. Only when the roof was destroyed and collapsed could water reach in- side the gate and douse the flames.

A total of 1,700 people and 130 pieces of equipment were mobilized for post-fire tasks on the site. The manpower included experts from the Cultural Heritage Administration and the National Research Institute of Cultural 4 Heritage as well as concerned industries. 7 17 | 18 Sungnyemun: Its Past, Present and Future

8. Sungnyemun after the fire 8 9. Imaginary picture of Sung- 9 nyemun after restoration

The post-fire examination was precisely docu- Damage from the fire was concentrated on the The core issue now is how much of the gate’s will be exerted in preventing similar disasters. mented through manual measurement and 3D second-story roof while the first story was de- historic and cultural value can be restored while By so doing it is hoped that the shocking and scanning, with the state of every fallen compo- stroyed under the weight of the collapsing up- rebuilding the gate to its pre-fire state. Toward heart-rending loss can be transformed into a nent recorded in detail with photographs and per story. In other words, the second-story roof this purpose, as many original elements as pos- moment that elevates the standard of cultural . In the meantime, safety facilities were was burnt down but the components of the first sible will be reused. Not only the gate but the heritage preservation. installed to support the ruins. The burnt gate story were broken or collapsed under the fall- walls removed by the Japanese will also be re- was covered with a temporary structure to pro- ing second-story debris. built. The ground foundation will be examined tect it from secondary damage from weather. Meanwhile, the surviving gate structure be- in detail to restore the auxiliary facilities to their came tilted toward the outside when the upper original shapes. The disaster should be turned The destroyed and fallen elements were tagged structures crumbled. Consequently the interior into an opportunity to rediscover the value of before retrieval and a radio frequency identi- columns were separated from the ground and Sungnymun and recover its lost grandeur. fication system was built to effectively handle the upper-story walls were partly twisted. Pre- them. Pieces which needed long-term preser- Also, the restoration process of Sungnyemun cision surveys will be needed on all displaced vation received on-site treatment and all of the elements when the remaining structure is dis- will be utilized as a god-given opportunity to burnt parts were collected and temporarily kept mantled to prepare for restoration. improve the conservation technology for tradi- on the site. On May 31, the retrieved elements tional architecture. Top-notch experts will be were moved into a warehouse newly built on 3. Restoration of Sungnyemun invited from broad technological areas to par- the grounds of Gyeongbok Palace and thus the The fire at Sungnyemun has left an irrevocable ticipate in the project. In light of the profound first-stage task was completed. As of July 2008, wound on Korea’s track record of cultural heri- importance of the project, the state will bear the precision surveys were being conducted on the tage preservation. Fortunately, however, the ultimate responsibility by directly managing remaining gate structure as well as the burnt el- majority of building elements maintain their the entire procedures of verification surveys, ements collected from the site. original shape. research and restoration. All possible efforts Natural Heritage 19 | 20

Birds in Korean Folk Culture Adorable Feathered Friends of Man

Text and photos by Kang Jeong-hoon | Natural Heritage Research Division of the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

2. A whooper swan family fly- 2 ing up from water

More than half the animals honored as “natural Among the 77 designated animals 43 are birds or nated by the Cultural Heritage Administration. coasts of Korea in the autumn. After spending the winter there they return to their habitats, monuments” in Korea are birds or their habitats, their living environments. The remaining 34 are Birds that are “natural monuments” are not which sprawl from the wintering grounds or breeding colonies desig- divided among mammals, insects, reptiles, fish only the subjects of biological study. Quite a in the Russian to Northeastern Sibe- nated for special protection and conservation, and marine animals under special protection as few of these feathered creatures have been ria, where the vast tundra has an abundant food according to the Cultural Heritage Administra- rare and valuable natural creations. Korea has a highly regarded in Korean folk arts and cul- 1. Flying white-naped cranes supply for the swans. tion statistics of June 2008. total of 386 natural monuments officially desig- ture since ancient times. Take, for example, the cranes, or more specifically the species with a The rarest of all extant species of swans, the red crown, widely revered as mysterious, spiri- mute swans winter only in Korea in all North- tual creatures and a theme of mythology. These east . This species is characterized by its elegant-looking birds, with a long neck and habits of carrying the neck curved and the bill long, slender legs, often appeared in ancient in a downward slant. It has a black bill with paintings of both classical and folk genres, as a brilliant orange on the upper mandible. A symbol of longevity and happiness. The mother bird has a black lump between its eyes also stood for the lofty spirit of a scholar. The and bill. red-crowned crane, or durumi in Korean, is The Bewick’s swan and the whooper swan Natural Monument. have similar appearances: both have white Modern Koreans tend to associate swans most plumage but the former, some 120cm long, often with Tchaikovsky’s ballet “Swan Lake” is smaller than the latter. The Bewick’s swan or Hans Christian Anderson’s fairy tale “The is distinguished by its bill with a blunt, yel- Ugly Duckling.” Obviously, the popularity of low tip, while the whooper swan has a long, these foreign tales overshadows the fact that sharp, and crooked beak. Baby swans, or cyg- the country hosts more of these migratory birds nets, of most species have dark, plain plumage in the winter than any place in . as natural protection against predators. When they are young the Bewick’s swan and the mute Korea has winter havens for three out of the swan have a grayish brown plumage while the nine species of swans that are known to in- whooper swan is blackish gray. habit the globe. They are the Bewick’s swans, the whooper swans and the mute swans. These The ugly duckling in Anderson’s fable, some- 1 swans migrate to the southern and eastern times seen as the author’s autobiographical 21 | 22 Natural Heritage

character, was obviously inspired by a baby swan’s biological features. The story centers around a duckling which is mistreated by his fellow barnyard fowl because of his homely ap- pearance. He is ostracized and kicked out but to his delight, and to the surprise of others, he be- comes a graceful swan. Actually, real ducklings look nicer than cygnets, though the latter grow 5. A chirping to look for a mate into far more attractive creatures. Anderson’s biographers believe the Danish author described 6. A black vulture flying over Cheor- himself through the ugly duckling. Anderson won, Gangwon Province himself is known to have been “a tall, ugly boy 7. A pair of oystercatchers headed 5 to their nest for incubation 3 often teased and mocked by other children.”

3. A mute swan and its seven babies Swans of all species inhabit lakes, marshes, The black vultures wintering in central Korea hues of its plumage, but some believe the “eight rivers and beaches in large flocks, eating water 4. Mandarin ducks in a pond at Changgyeong Palace around the Demilitarized Zone near Cheorwon, colors” denote the seven rainbow colors of the plant stalks and roots, fruits of ground plants, Gangwon Province, and Paju, Gyeonggi Prov- bird’s feathers plus the exquisite tone of its and small insects in water. Swans usually mate ince, breed in mountains and forests in Mongo- chirping sound. In spite of its beautiful appear- for life and form a family for joint nesting. They lia. Thus the bird is used as a symbol of cultural ance the bird is rarely seen. Fairy pittas live in are therefore regarded as a symbol of love and homogeneity and exchange of natural heritage warm temperate zones. Korea’s Natural Monu- fidelity. In Korea, the lower reaches of the Nak- between Korea and . The Cultural ment, the birds breed in wide-leaved forests on dong River along the south coast are most well Heritage Administration recently confirmed , Geoje Island, and southern coastal known for winter migration of thousands of the flyways of young black vultures -migrat areas of South . swans. ing from their breeding habitats in Mongolia In recognition of the need for international ef- to Korea through a satellite tracing device. A forts to protect swans, the Korean government threatened species, the black vulture is Korea’s named all the three species which migrate to - Natural Monument. goni rea for the winter. The Bewick’s swans ( ), Korea has the world’s largest wintering grounds the whooper swans (keun goni), and the mute for the Eurasian oystercatcher, a rare species swans (heuk goni) are Natural Monument. of waders breeding mostly in out-of-the-way Mandarin ducks (wonang), designated Natural islands. The species has an estimated popula- Monument, have been frequently featured in tion of 10,000 around the globe, of which some Korean folk art since prehistoric times. They are 2,500-3,000 birds gather in the lower reaches 6 regarded as a symbol of conjugal affection and of the to spend the winter. The fidelity. Hence these birds are popular motifs Eurasian oystercatchers have strikingly col- for bed sheets and pillows of newlyweds. The orful plumage, black on the head and back, name wonang means a pair of male (won) and and white underneath, with red bills and legs. female (ang) ducks. But the symbolism differs Local administrative bodies hold festivals to from reality: a male mandarin duck mates with welcome and protect these migratory birds to many females. increase public awareness of their value. A fes- tival mascot features the bird, called geomeun The black vulture, or the Eurasian black vulture, meori multtesae (black-headed water fowl) in breeding in Mongolia and wintering in Korea, Korean. It is Natural Monument. is one of the world’s largest flying birds with a wingspan reaching 3 meters. For its majestic The fairy pitta, or palsaekjo (eight-colored appearance this raptor species is known as “the bird) in Korean, is noted for its gorgeous plum- king of sky.” But it also is called the “scav- age and charming singing tone. The Korean 7 4 enger of nature” because it only eats carrion. name was obviously derived from the brilliant

3 23 | 24 Epitome of Korean Buddhist Sculpture

Gilt Bronze Pensive Bodhisattva in Half-Seated Posture

Text by Chun-sil | archaeology & art-history professor at Chungbuk National University Photos by the Cultural Heritage Administration

Two images stand out prominently famous Maitreya seated cross-legged is at- 1. National Treasure No. 78 Height: 80cm among the numerous gilt bronze pensive bo- tended by a bodhisattva in a half-seated pose. Period: Late 6th century, dhisattvas in the unique “half-seated” posture Independent icons in this type became firmly Period Collection: National - (geumdong mireuk bosal banga sayu sang) established during the Northern Qi Dyansty seum of Korea made during the Three Kingdoms period (37 (550-577). No doubt the changing iconic styles 2. National Treasure No. 83 B.C. - A.D. 668). Designated as National Trea- reflected the changing trends in faith. sure No. 78 and No. 83, respectively, these im- Korea has only independent images of pensive pressive statues are also the largest and most bodhisattva, which achieved the height of sty- beautiful among all gilt bronze images of med- listic development during the Three Kingdoms itating Maitreya ever cast in Korea. Crafted period. They were introduced to and with adroit hands they are Korea’s representa- served as prototypes for many similar works tive Buddhist icons comparable to the majestic there. The half-seated pensive main Buddha in Grotto. were very popular icons in the three Korean These half-seated pensive bodhisattvas are eas- kingdoms of (37 B.C. - A.D. 668), ily distinguished by their indigenous pose: they Baekje (18 B.C. - A.D. 660) and (57 B.C. sit on a stool with one leg crossed and the other - A.D. 935), and many specimens attributed to pendant and with one hand lightly touching the these periods remain today. In the half- cheek. Buddhist icons in this posture first ap- seated pensive bodhisattvas represented the peared in Gandhara art and were introduced to widespread faith in Maitreya, the Future Bud- China, where they were stylized and adopted dha, which derived from images of Prince Sid- by Korean sculptors. dhartha, the Sakyamuni Buddha before his en- lightenment. Korea has no comparable images The most well known among early Chinese with inscriptions. It is vaguely assumed that bodhisattva images with this pose is a stone Koreans accepted the meditating bodhisattva image of Prince Siddhartha parting with his as Maitreya from early days. horse, Kanthaka, inscribed with “the 16th year of Taihe” of the Dynasty, cor- The gilt bronze pensive bodhisattva named 1 responding to A.D. 492. In a Yungang cave a National Treasure No. 78 precedes most other 2 Epitome of Korean Buddhist Sculpture

Buddhist images in similar types dated to the bodhisattva is assumed to have been made in Three Kingdoms period. This bodhisattva is the late sixth century, somewhat earlier than noted for its round smiling face and finely en- another famous gilt bronze pensive bodhisat- graved lines expressing a robe covering a slen- tva appointed National Treasure No. 83. der but well-built body. This graceful bodhisat- There is no consensus yet regarding in which tva is enshrouded in a serene meditative mood of the three Korean kingdoms the bodhisattva symbolic of a lofty state of mind. It is distin- was made. It is primarily because the statue, guished not only for its divine spiritual beauty like its kin named National Treasure No. 83, but for excellent craftsmanship as well. A ra- was secretly moved from the site where it was diographic in 1963 revealed that, in view discovered presumably around 1912. All infor- of its large size, exceptional skill was needed to mation concerning its excavation and transac- produce the image using a very thin and even tions thereafter was lost. The prevalent opinion bronze sheet. No traces of repair were detected among scholars in early years was that the im- from inside. age was made in Silla. In recent years, another The bodhisattva wears a tall gorgeous crown opinion emerged that it was probably made with pendants sliding down both sides of its in Goguryeo in view of its dynamic depiction face. The crown is reminiscent of the sun and of drape similar to China’s Eastern Wei style, moon designs on the crowns of the Persian which was popular in Goguryeo around the Sassanid Empire (226-651). Though not volu- sixth century. minous, the slightly forward-bent torso and the In the meantime, some Japanese scholars assert legs look strong and fresh underneath a fluid the repeated U-shaped folds of the robe over drape expressed with restrained aestheticism. the pedestal strongly suggest the bodhisattva The upper body is covered with a robe hung was made in Baekje as they resemble those on down in round folds at the back and stretched a similar agalmatolite image unearthed from upward like wings from both shoulders. It the Buso Mountain Fortress of Baekje. Regard- flows down smoothly and naturally, crossing less of these varying opinions as to the place of on the legs and then covering the arms before its origin, most scholars agree that the Korean falling down toward the back of the pedestal. bodhisattva image is closely related to Japan’s The skirt wraps the half-crossed legs rather Tori-style Buddhist sculpture of the Asuka pe- tightly under repeated U-shaped folds. In light riod (538-710). of this drape style resembling Buddhist icons of China’s Eastern Wei Dynasty (534-549), this Photo Gallery

Joseon Royal Tombs

Photos by the Art and Crafts Research Division of the National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage Photo Gallery 29 | 30

A brief history of Joseon Royal Tombs

A total of 42 royal tombs were made through- confluence of geomancy, architecture, land- out the Joseon Dynasty as the burial sites of 27 scaping, stone sculptures and ancestral rites, kings and their spouses. The royal tombs of the and remind us of the politics and economics of Joseon Dynasty may be seen as intermediary Joseon. Built in and around the capital Seoul, structures between the where the kings these royal graveyards are prized historical as- and queens lived and Jongmyo Shrine where sets and green heavens in a huge metropolitan they were worshipped as ancestral gods. Thus area, where tradition and modernity can be rel- the royal graveyards were significant spaces ished together. The royal tombs of the Joseon where life and death intersected. Today, the Dynasty are nominated for the inscription on royal tombs remain enchanting vestiges of pre- the UNESCO World Heritage List. modern upper-class culture. They display the

Bent Walls

The burial mounds were fended by a low wall to the back and sides, and open only to the front. The bent wall implied that the royal couple continued to live in the same room after death. Photo Gallery 31 | 32

Yureung of Sunjong

Yureung of Emperor Sunjong, designed to suit the imperial status of occupants, differs from other Jo- seon royal tombs in scale and style. Instead of plac- ing stone guardian images of and sheep and civil and military officials around guardrails, the tomb has a greater variety of figures lined in an or- derly format on both sides of the worship road. They include tall officials of the civil and military classes, giraffes, elephants, lions, mythical fire-eating ani- mals called haetae, camels and horses.

Graveyard Rites: A Living Tradition

During the Joseon period, ancestral rites were performed by people of all classes, from the royal family to the literati class to commoners. From its early days, the Joseon royal house- hold faithfully observed ancestral rites at the gravesides. The tradition was maintained until the dynasty fell in 1910 with Japan’s annexa- tion of Korea. The royal family of a demol- ished dynasty had no means to continue to hold ancestral rites under colonial rule. The Yi Clan Association, organized with descendants of the royal family, revived the time-honored rites after national liberation in 1945. The association continues to hold rites today, sustaining the illustrious tradition that is now six centuries old. Photo Gallery 33 | 34

Royal Tombs in the Capital Seoul T-Shaped Shrine

Built in and around Hanyang, present-day Seoul, the The T-shaped shrine was where the ritual cer- Joseon royal tombs are serving as a green, rest place emony was performed. In the shrine, the dead for people. king and the incumbent king met.

Stone Figures of Civil and Military Officials

The figures of civil officials wear an official robe and crown, holding a ritual scep- ter in both hands. Those of military officials are in an armor and helmet. Two stone horses were typically put be- hind stone figures of civil and military officials, one on- ei ther side. 35 | 36 Foreigner’s View

Chuseok The Harvest Moon

Text by David Shaffer | Dr. Shaffer is a professor of language and linguistics at Chosun University and author of Seasonal Customs of Korea. He is Foreign Language Programs Director at the University’s Language Institute and an officer of two major professional English teachers associations: Korea TESOL and Asia TEFL. Photos by Topic photo Agency / Shim Hwan-geun

2 2. A seongmyo ritual

Chuseok celebrations have existed on the Kore- 8th lunar month, and recognizing the season’s observed is in Chuseok attire. That attire is, of cles that the normally four-hour express bus trip an Peninsula seemingly for almost as long as the harvest. Accordingly, harvest moon observances course, the for both males and females, to could take sixteen hours. But people bright harvest moon has been orbiting the earth. in Korea likely date back to the beginnings of but there has been a change in who dons it. This would endure the inconvenience of travel since Written records date observances back two mil- the harvesting of crops. Chuseok, as on every Chuseok, you will see par- being with family and relatives, and observing lennia, to the beginning of the Silla Kingdom ents taking there children to visit their relatives. family rites was of paramount importance. To- This long tradition, however, has not been with- when the royal court held -weaving con- Those most likely wearing hanbok will be the day, too, the cities empty as Chuseok nears. But out change, albeit very slow change over past tests. Whether referred to as Gabae, Gawi, Han- children–bright, new hanbok that they will have today, far fewer of these people are headed for centuries, but much more rapid over recent de- gawi, or Chuseok, the event has been marked outgrown by next Chuseok. The parents will their family roots in the countryside. Many now cades. In the few decades that I have resided by the brightest full moon of the autumn, the likely be dressed in western-style garb, gain- opt to spend the holiday at a relaxing resort or on harvest moon, occurring on the 15th day of the in Korea, one noticeable change that I have ing their satisfaction in their children being the a trip abroad. Travel destinations are changing center of attention. In the 1970s, the scene was from extended family gatherings to tourist spots 1. Family members making quite different. In those more frugal times, it was of adventure and relaxation. rice cakes the adults who regularly wore hanbok on Chu- As a bachelor living alone in Korea in the 1970s, seok – often the same hanbok that they had worn Chuseok could be a very lonesome experience. the previous Chuseok and the Chuseok before The cities were virtually deserted, shops and that. Children were dressed in more practical at- restaurants shuttered, tearooms and bars locked tire, clothes that they could wear throughout the tight. I was so happy when a friend or colleague season, rather than expensive hanbok that they would invite me to spend Chuseok with their would not be able to fit into the next time Chu- family. Things were different for me, though, in seok rolled around. the 1980s. As I was now married, Chuseoks were spent at my in-laws place outside of Gwangju. Chuseok is a time when Koreans are especially on the go. In the 1970s, extra trains and buses We arrived the evening before Chuseok so that were scheduled to carry the bulk of the popula- my wife and her sisters could make the requisite tion out of their city residences to their country moon-shaped songpyeon rice cakes and other homes. In the 1980s and 1990s, as the people foods, or early in the morning for the charye an- equipped themselves with private cars, the Chu- cestral rite. Being the eldest son of an eldest son, 1 seok highways became so crammed with vehi- my father-in-law conducted the rite at his house. Foreigner’s View 37 | 38

5. Songpyeon rice cakes

rae dance performances that the is known for. They have all moved to the televi- sion. On one channel, you will find an amateur song contest; on another, performers will be dancing ganggang-surae. On yet another will be wrestling, and atop the winner’s trophy 3 will be a figure of the live bull that the prizewin- 3. A charye ritual The tables of food prepared for the ancestors tors’ graves are situated on the family hillside; ner once took home. The Chuseok entertainment 4. Ganggang-surae dance were overflowing–red meats on one end, white the others, in the city cemetery. In past years, a is still there, just appearing in a different mode. meats on the other; fruits in the front, vegetables pre-Chuseok visit was made to the gravesites to At the end of the day, I will be too full to move, behind; and place settings for five generations of cut the grass and tidy them up in advance, but as is the case for most people every year. I will ancestors. Wine was offered, bows were made, now, as with many other families, that is done have again strengthened ties and gained support and strips of paper were burned, bearing the on Chuseok Day, right before the gravesite rites. from the family, most likely even more this year names of ancestors. The rite was followed by Afterwards, we will head to Mother-in-law’s than in the past. I will have again thought that , a feast by any standard, partaken of house for television and talk. Chuseok is one of the most important holidays by the extended family. Going to Mother-in-law’s house is always a that Korea has on its calendar. And I will have Those memorable days are now gone. Gone, too, treat–a treat of handmade, homemade rice cakes, realized that, while Chuseok has changed in is Father-in-law. And gone is his eldest son, on not the store-bought ones that are now so preva- some specific details in the past four decades, in whom conducting charye fell. The ritual is now lent. And the television has become the main its true essence, it has not changed so very much conducted by my 25-year-old nephew, assisted source of entertainment. Gone are many of the over the centuries. Chuseok continues to serve by my youngest (and now only) brother-in-law. Chuseok activities of rural towns and villages. the people of Korea well. Grandmother is too frail to make the cross-town Village song contests were once common and trip. Charye participants have dwindled. This much enjoyed. Outdoor ssireum wrestling con- Chuseok will be especially different for me. It tests between neighboring villages have disap- will be the first year that my wife will not be peared. Gone, too, are the outdoor ganggang-su- at my side, as she has re- cently passed away. The charye bows will carry different meaning; the Chuseok foods will carry a different taste.

As always, the seongmyo rituals at the ancestors’ graves will take place af- ter breakfast. Participants making the trek may be few this year, but it will remain meaningful. 5 The more distant ances- 4 39 | 40 A Brush with Lively Touch

Animal Paintings Symbolize Folk Beliefs

Text and photos by Gong-im | president of the Korean Folk Painting Association

Paintings that decorated Korean homes were not valued solely for their artistic beauty. They represented popular wishes to fend off evil spir- its and invoke blessings from heaven. Across genres these pictures often featured animals. The following are some of the animals most often depicted in ancient Korean folk paintings and what they symbolized in the spiritual life 2 3 of Koreans.

The tiger (horang-i) was widely believed to be country as well as controlling water. Hence the ensure a smooth climb up the bureaucratic ladder; 1. The tiger (horang-i) a compassionate guardian that protected humans king’s face was called “yong-an,” the throne was the hen, or amtak, promised fertility. 2. The rooster (dak) and even repaid their kindness. Therefore, the “yong-sang,” the king’s virtuous mind “yong- The phoenix (bonghwang) was a highly auspi- 3. The dragon (yong) tiger was usually depicted as a gentle and docile deok,” the king’s status “yong-wi,” and his offi- cious legendary creature often compared to kings creature rather than a ferocious beast. Still, the cial garb “yong-.” In folk mythology the blue (bong) and queens (). One of the four underlying belief was that it was a fearless and dragon symbolized exorcist powers, the yellow guardian spirits representing the four cardinal valiant animal that would prevent misfortunes or white dragon represented the royal authority, such as fire, flood or storm, and chase away evil and the fish dragon was believed to possess rain- directions, the phoenix was believed to live only spells. Tiger skins or ornaments made of tiger making powers. atop trees, eating seeds and, claws were considered to have such mysterious once stretching its wings, it could fly 90,000 li. The rooster ( dak) heralds dawn and scatters dark- powers. Tiger paintings were put on the gate or Phoenix designs, symbolic of dignity and aus- ness, so it often appeared in paintings posted on other places around the house on New Year’s piciousness, were used for royal emblems, cos- middle gates. The rooster was seen to have five Day with hopes they would usher in a blissful tumes and . The Korean presidential em- virtues. With its crest symbolizing a high post in year. blem has a phoenix design. civil service and sharp claws standing for mili- The dragon (yong) was an imaginary animal tary prowess, the rooster was considered valiant The (gae) has long been a smart and faithful that supposedly lived in the water before as- enough to never retreat from battle, compassion- friend of man. From ancient times it was highly cending to heaven. It was worshiped as an enig- ate enough to crow when it finds feed to share it prized for its geniality and loyalty to humans and matic and dignified creature comparable to em- with others, and credible enough to depend on for considered useful for hunting and guiding as well perors and kings. Like the rulers the dragon was keeping time. Hence it was regarded as a virtuous as guarding homes. Also, the dog was believed to 1 held accountable for protecting people and the fowl: the rooster, more precisely the sutak, would be capable of protecting humans from evil spirits, 1 A Brush with Lively Touch 41 | 42

4 5

4. The dog (gae) disease, ghosts and wicked apparitions, as well cles for immortals and one of the ten longevity compassion and mercy. Hence its emergence 5. The turtle (geobuk) as warning and preventing disasters. As white symbols. In Chinese the two letters symbolizing was seen as a sign for the emergence of a sage 6. Haetae tigers and white horses were regarded as sacred the and public officials’ salaries are both king. Ancient Koreans called a young man with creatures, white were considered indis- pronounced as lu (nok in Korean) though they prominent ability and dignity a girin-a, mean- pensable for suppressing inauspicious energies have different shapes. Hence, bailu (baengnok ing a child prodigy. lurking around a home. Yellow dogs were often in Korean), literally “one hundred deer,” came A legendary fire-eating creature, haetae, was raised at farm houses as guardians of fertility to mean “success and happiness.” believed to be a guardian of justice that would and rich crops. The smart and handsome spe- strike anything improper or unjust with its cies native to Island, Jindogae stands for The turtle (geobuk), with its round domed up- mighty horn. Due to its fire-eating nature, hae- courage and loyalty, and the Korean native per shell and flat under shell, symbolized the tae symbolized water and paintings of this crea- poodle, called sapsalgae, is believed to chase ancient Korean notion of a round domed sky off evil spirits. and a flat Earth. Thus it was regarded as a sa- ture were often put on kitchen walls. In China a cred creature connecting heaven and man and similar imaginary animal was known as xiezhi, With its elegant horns stretched toward the sky, as an emblem of longevity, felicity, stability or haechi in Korean. the deer (saseum) was regarded as a sacred and strength. A stone stele erected on a stone creature capable of discerning the holy inten- turtle back embodied hopes that it would last tions of heaven. Consequently, it was believed forever. to prevent disease and invoke happiness and 6 wealth. The deer were also envisaged as vehi- An imaginary unicorn named girin stood for 43 | 44 Intangible Heritage

Dano Festival Revives Millennium-old Customs

Text by Gyeong- | deputy secretary-general local population of some 230,000, attend the of the Dano Festival Committee festival each year. Photos by the Gangneung Dano Festival Committee & the Gangneung Dano Festival Conservation Society The festival’s highlights are the rituals for tute- lary deities of the Daegwallyeong Pass east of Gangneung. They take place from the first to the eighth of the fifth lunar month and are based on local mythology surrounding the mountain spirit and the male and female guardian deities of the steep alpine pass. The deities are enter- Every year, as the fifth lunar month approaches, A jubilant conviviality celebrating commu- tained in elaborate rites to invoke their bless- the east coast city of Gangneung gets busier nions of people and gods with a history span- ings, which promise peace and fertile harvests in anticipation of its time-honored festival for ning over a thousand years, the Dano Festival from the land, ocean and forests. Dano, the Double Fifth. for the local tu- of Gangneung is one of Korea’s oldest and larg- telary gods are set up on the ritual venue along est folk festivals. Since its inscription in 2005 A joyous combination of rites, games and carni- Namdaecheon, the Great South Stream, the city’s on the UNESCO’s Representative List of the vals, the festival begins with the making of holy lifeline; temples and shrines are decorated with Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heri- liquor for the spirits on the fifth of the fourth colorful paper flowers and lanterns; and special tage of Humanity, the month-long festival has lunar month, a month ahead of Dano. A solemn liquor for the deities is brewed with utmost care attracted even greater attention from home and ritual by itself, the liquor making takes place to prepare for the annual bacchanalia. abroad. Some 1.5 million people, including the at Chilsadang, the old local government office 2 2. A rite for guardian deities complex of the Joseon period (1392-1910). The 1. Sacred liquor making liquor is made only of rice donated by the local is an obvious Buddhist impact in that the male residents for the specific purpose. Traditionally, guardian deity personifies a ninth-century the mayor of Gangneung presents top-quality Buddhist monk who married a woman a tiger malt needed for brewing the holy drink. brought to him.

In the following days until the third of the fifth Indeed, the once-a-year rendezvous of the de- lunar month a series of rites are performed in ity couple concludes the festival. The “national succession throughout the city and beyond. preceptor’s spirit” descends to Earth a sacred They include rites for welcoming deities, pa- tree in a ritual of tense prayers and fiddle play- rades for escorting them to their altars, the daily ing echoing around mountain ridges. The spirit morning worships, the rites for congratulating is then escorted down the mountain to his bride’s the reunion of the male and female deities, and abode at Hongje-dong, across the city of Gang- those for bidding farewell to the departing dei- neung. The procession is accompanied by sha- ties promising another peaceful year of plenti- mans and musicians, chanting an “azalea song” ful harvests for the humans. The rites combine and beating gongs and drums. Two rounds of 1 Confucian and shamanic elements. There also welcoming rites are performed on the way. Intangible Heritage

3 4

3. A shamanic rite The reunion of the male and female deities oc- The masked dance drama, characterized by 4. A rite for traveling deity curs on the 15th of the fourth lunar month, the hilarious humor and satire, is called the “Gov- 5. Masked dance drama day the ancient national preceptor is said to ernment Servants’ Masked Drama” (Gwanno have married a woman of a Jeong family. The gamyeongeuk) as it was originally performed spirit tablets of the couple and the sacred tree by servants belonging to the local government. used by the male deity as his vehicle are kept With the festive mood reaching its height, the at the female deity’s shrine until the third of the Dano day, the fifth of the fifth lunar month, also Quarterly Magazine fifth lunar month, when local citizens come up of the Cultural Heritage Administration called surinnal in Korean, is reserved for the to the shrine to hold rites. Then the spirit tab- final rites, which send off the deities to their lets are carried out to altars built on the shore Cultural Heritage Administration, Republic of Korea realms. Those rites are followed by the burning of the Great South Stream, the main venue of Tel | 82-42-481-4730 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 the festival. The holy procession is watched by of the sacred tree and all the paper-made ritual http://english.cha.go.kr crowds of local residents and visitors. paraphernalia, including flowers, lanterns and boats, while the humans say their last prayers. Published | Aug 25, 2008 Female shamans dance to celebrate the com- Thus the month-long festival ends: the gods munion of gods and humans. A masked dance Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration leave and the humans go back to their routines Republic of Korea performance highlights the riverside festival. with assurances of a blissful year ahead—boun- tiful crops and no disease or natural disaster. Publication | Jong-deok management Director of International Affairs Division

The Dano Festival of Gangneung integrates Content | International Affairs Division music, dance, oral tradition of poetry and coordination

drama, games, seasonal customs and religious Translation | Lee Kyong-hee rites evolved in a unique geographical environ- Proofreading | Ted Chan ment straddling the farming, fishing and moun- tainous villages. In modern society, where Design ∙ Editing | Lee Hong-taeg, Hyun-jung, Jin-hee traditional festivals are in decline, losing their Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd originality, this late spring festival beckons the world as a showcase of Korea’s living cultural Cultural Heritage Administration, 2008 legacy. A bridge linking the past and present, the festival is also gaining recognition as an ex- This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced emplary model in modern festival planning and by any process without written permission. 5 cultural recreation. copyright Cultural Heritage Administration

Top View