Lfl PELLE EPOQUE Exhibition Checklist

THE HETROPOLITflN rU15EVin OF ART 04^27 H3 » 2.95 LA* PELLE EPOQME Exhibition Checklist

A checklist to the exhibition at the Costume Institute,

December 6, 1982, through September 4, 1983

Introduction bv Stella Blum, Curator, The Costume Institute

Entries bv Paul M. Ettesvold, Assistant Curator, The Costume Institute

THE HETROPOLITdN mi5Etin OF ART The exhibition was made possible by a generous grant from the Pierre Cardin Management Corporation.

Copyright © 1983 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Bradford D. Kelleher, Publisher John P. O'Neill, Editor in Chief Amy Hörbar, Editor Roberta Savage, Designer

Libran' of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Ettesvold, Paul M. La Belle epoque.

1. Fashion—History—19th century—Exhibitions. 2. Fashion—History—20th century—Exhibitions. I. Costume Institute (New York, N.Y.) II. Title. GT595.E88 1983 391.2'09034 83-9362 ISBN 0-8^099-342-9

On the cover: Lady Boniïck, drypoint by Helleu, from Les Modes, November, 1913, no. 155, pi. facing p. 2 Contents

4 Introduction: Fashions in La Belle Epoque, 1890-1914

6 Large Maxim's Gallery

8 Newport/Bois de Boulogne

10 Ballroom (Green Wallpaper Gallery)

12 Floral Wallpaper Gallery

14 Blue Gallery/Vitrine

19 Small Maxim's Gallery7

20 Wisteria Gallery

20 Poster Gallery

22 Designers Shown in La Belle Epoque

22 Acknowledgments

23 Lenders to the Exhibition

23 Staff of the Costume Institute

23 Exhibition Staff

24 Volunteers for Restoration

24 Volunteers for the Installation

246228 Introduction: Fashions in La Belle Epoque, 1890-1914

La Belle Epoquewzs indeed a wonderful era if one was rich, with silk braid. Even the summer dresses of white lace, eyelet powerful, or nobly titled. One would then be a pan of the embroideries, or elaborate cutwork were festooned with leisure class, whose sole occupation was the pursuit of plea­ ornamentation. Nothing escaped fuss or frills. The acces­ sure. So exclusive was this circle that the only outsiders its sories—millinery, parasols, fans, purses, muffs, jewelry, and members acknowledged were talented artists, musicians, neckpieces including boas, scarves, and tippets—also re­ writers, performers, beautiful women, or witty personal­ ceived a surfeit of decoration. This was a period of ultimate ities—in other words, those who could best serve to enhance femininity both in form and embellishment, an era of con­ the lives of the elite. In Paris between 1890 and 1914, new spicuous consumption. Debutantes, mistresses, and wives wealth and technology flourished along with an exuberant alike vied through their finery for male attention and for cultural climate, bringing exciting challenges and fresh fashion acclaim. Couturiers, among them Wonh, Doucet, inspiration to ways of life that were breaking away from Paquin, and Redfern, happily accommodated the desires and Victorian morality in favor of the freer spirit promised by a tastes of their clients. new century. These changes are handsomely recorded in the By 1910, when Edward VII died, the fashions of the era three distina styles that evolved in women's fashions during bearing the king's name were already becoming outmoded. La Belle Epoque. A few years earlier, the designer Paul Poiret had proposed The first style, of 1890 to 1896, is clearly late Victorian. The clothes that were simple and classical and that could be worn fashion plates of the time show the ideal beauty as young and without corsets. It was, however, the appearance of Diaghi- essentially innocent. Rigidly boned bodices with huge leg- lev's Ballets Russes in Paris in 1909 that helped to usher in the of-mutton sleeves, nipped-in wasp waists, and full hips totally new look that was to evolve between 1911 and 1914. created the hourglass figure. The whole silhouette had an Diaghilev's slender, supple dancers, unconstrained by cor­ aura of opulent respectability. Much of the stiff formality of sets, were arrayed in richly colored harem-style costumes earlier Victorian fashions was still present in these clothes; (designed by Léon Bakst, who found his inspiration in Orien­ little was casual about them. Even the garnitures—braids, tal garb) that dazzled the fashion-conscious Paris audiences. ribbons, and laces—were tacked into position. It was in the What the spectators were wearing by contrast seemed over­ area of color that adventurousness emerged. Sharp, vivid blown, faded, and passé. So anxious were the couturiers to hues, popular for day and evening, were often used in strik­ interpret body-reveal ing exoticism for their eager clients that ing combinations, such as lavender with bright citron yellow, a trial-and-error phase of design commenced, resulting not blue with lime, scarlet with cerise, and orange with char­ only in confusion as to what form new styles should take but treuse and accents of olive green. For winter there were suits also in some of the most unonhodox dressmaking in the of handsome tweeds or silky broadcloths. Taffeta facings history of fashion. This indecision was not to be resolved ensured a smooth, firm appearance for both the silks and the until the 1920s. If there was any common denominator in the woolens. For evening, gowns were made of luxurious satins fashions of the post-Edwardian period, it was the ankle- and velvets, plain or patterned. In the summer, for evening restricting hobble skins of 1912 to 1914, which were a decor­ ladies wore gowns of lightweight silks or fine muslins and for ous adaptation of the harem trousers of the Ballets Russes. day dresses of crisp linens and starched cottons over layers of Some of these skins measured a mere twenty inches around starched petticoats. the hem, permitting the wearer to take only small, mincing The second style of La Belle Epoque began in 1897 and steps; hence the name hobble. It was the introduction from continued through the Edwardian period, which ended in Argentina of the tango, with its exaggerated movements, that 1910. The large sleeves of the previous years shrank into finally began to free women from their modish shackles. Hats vestigial epaulets. Bodice fronts swelled into puffed-out assumed huge proportions from about 1908 to 1912, rivaling "pouter pigeons" or "monobosoms." Bell-shaped skirts the enormous headgear of the late eighteenth century in size skimmed the hips and flared from below the knees down to and in mass of decoration. After 1912, as hats decreased in the hem. The entire silhouette assumed an s-shape, reflect­ diameter, they grew in height and were trimmed with all ing the curvilinear motifs of An Nouveau. The young, inno­ kinds of plumes, some of which were nearly eighteen inches cent ideal now was supplanted by that of the fully developed, in length and were positioned to stand straight up in the air. mature woman. Bright colors gave way to neutrals, pastels, or Accessories, such as purses, muffs, and umbrellas, also shades of mauve. Soft silks, such as chiffons, thin crepes, and became inflated in size. nets, replaced the heavier satins and velvets. Gowns were In spite of the lack of real cohesiveness in post-Edwardian tucked, flounced, ruffled, beaded, sequined, or trimmed fashions, there was a great deal of imagination, fantasy, and

[4] individuality expressed in them. Some displayed sensual manship. As different times of day, occasions, and activities elegance, others absurdity—reflecting the general instability called for special costumes, a gentleman's wardrobe had to of the era that ended with the outbreak of World War I. be extensive and obviously expensive. Thorstein Veblen Although women were certainly the peacocks of La Belle described the desired effect of a gentleman's garb in The Epoque, men were by no means the drab peahens of the Theory of the Leisure Class ( 1899): "Much of the charm that period. The ostentation of the women was neatly balanced invests the patent-leather shoe, the stainless linen, the lus­ by the superb sartorial perfection of the gentlemen. Looking trous cylindrical hat, and the walking stick, which so greatly to English aristocrats as their models, fashionable men enhance the native dignity of a gentleman, comes of their turned to London tailors, who produced for them impecca­ pointedly suggesting that the wearer cannot so attired bear a bly styled outfits. Everything a gentleman wore, from head to hand in any employment that is directly and immediately of toe—whether it was made of silk, wool, leather, metal, or any human use." In La Belle Epoque, wealth, power, or title of precious stones—had to be of the finest quality and work­ nobility meant little if one did not dress the part.

Stella Blum Curator, The Costume Institute

[5] Evening Cape Afternoon Dress Black velvet trimmed with black paillettes White chiffon embroidered in floral pattern Large Maxim's Gallery and beads embroidered in floral pattern in black and white silk over pale blue satin, and black chiffon niching trimmed with white chiffon, blue braid, Worn by Cleo de Mérode and Brussels lace French, about 1899 Label: Louise Kormann, Paris Lent by Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Paris French, about 1899 SL 82.71.6 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1935 35.134.7 Dinner Dress Ivory satin voided to multicolored velvet Formal Morning Suit floral pattern, trimmed with beige faille, Dark gray flannel trimmed with black silk pink chiffon, and Valenciennes lace; black braid; medium gray herringbone-patterned velvet skirt wool trousers Cape Label: Louise Kormann. Paris Label: Sandon and Co., London Dark ruby-red wool trimmed with black French, about 1895 English, about 1910 soutache in geometric and foliate design Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1935 Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince. Jr.. 19Ó4 American, about 1896 35.13-i.3ab CI 64.6".2a-c Gift of Elizabeth Houghton Trott, 1954 CI 54.44.4 Promenade Suit Cape Gray wool with white flecks, trimmed with Multicolored chiné taffeta with woven white Winter Suit off-white silk piping floral pattern, trimmed with dark gold Deep red wool broadcloth edged in black American, about 1903 taffeta, cream Chantilly lace, black gauze, satin and trimmed with mother-of-pearl Gift of Mrs. Joseph O. Eastlack, 1961 and gold metallic rocaille-pattemed braid buttons CI 6l.38.2ab French, about 1895 .American, about 1900 Gift of Mrs. Alan L Corey, Jr.. Mrs. William T. Funds from various donors, 19"8 Promenade Suit Newbold, and Mrs. A. G. Paine. II. 1980 19"8.88.4ab Burgundy-colored wool broadcloth trimmed 1980.126.1 with dark red velvet and black soutache; Promenade Suit black satin tie and tassels Summer Dress Red wool trimmed with self-fabric pleating. Label: Frances et Cie. Paris White, black, and gray dotted silk chiffon black silk faille, ecru chiffon, and French, about 1902 with satin striped over ivory satin, trimmed Valenciennes lace Gift of Frances M. Dickinson. 1955 with black Chantilly lace, Valenciennes English, about 1903 CI 55.65ab lace, white chiffon, and pink satin ribbon Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" Worn by Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson CI 3" 4Ó.8ab Cape Label: Rouff. Paris Gray broadcloth with matching bands of French, about 1904 Hat velvet, trimmed with beige silk moiré Gift of R. Thornton Wilson and Orme Wilson, Black velvet trimmed with black faille ribbon Label: Beer, Paris in memory of their mother. Mrs. Caroline and coq feathers French, about 1898 Schermerhorn Astor Wilson, 1949 Label: Shayne, Chicago Gift of Violet M. Turner. 1949 CI 49.3.5ab American, about 1910 CI 49.1-4 Lent by The Chicago Historical Society Afternoon Dress SL 82.139.10 Dinner Dress Black velvet voided in stripes to white satin Gray pleated chiffon with insets of gray ground, trimmed with pleating, black Day Suit Valenciennes lace, trimmed with matching Chantilly lace insets, ecru lace medallions, Black wool broadcloth trimmed with gray velvet and fringe, white chiffon and lace black and green velvet, silver bead worsted wool with pinstripes and black Label: Doucet, Paris embroidery, and white net satin French, about 1906 American, about 1903 Label: Cregar and Rienzl, Philadelphia Lent by The Brooklyn Museum Gift of Mrs. Walter T. Lahey. 1946 American, about 1906 SL 82.103.23 CI 46"2.1ab Gift of Mrs. Robin Craven, 1965 CI 65.39.2a-c Evening Wrap Afternoon Dress Lavender silk figured with white Art Nouveau White silk taffeta with overall pattern of black Promenade Suit pattern, trimmed with white feathers chenille dots, trimmed with black Chantilly Black velvet trimmed with black soutache English, about 1900 lace, white satin, and pleated white chiffon with tan silk embroidered in a Gift of Frederica Todd Harlow, 1981 American, about 1898 multicolored foliate design 1981.304 Gift of Maria Drummond, in memory of Hope Label: Worth. Paris Clark Spater, 1974 French, about 189-4 Afternoon Dress 1974.308.4ab Gift of Mrs. William Glenn. 1945 Light blue silk faille brocaded in latticed CI 45.95.6ab acorn motif, trimmed with matching Inverness Cape spotted crepe chiffon, moiré ribbon, and Black wool trimmed with topstitching Day Jacket silk fringe .American, about 1898 Olive-green velvet trimmed with silver bead American (?), about 1892 Lent by The Brooklyn Museum embroidery in arabesque patterns Gift of Mrs. Howard Ellis Cox, 19"9 SL 82.103.6 Worn by Princess Viggo 1979.231. lab Label: Worth, Paris French, about 1896 Lent by The Brookhn Museum SL 82.103.19

[6] Dinner Dress Day Coat Day Dress White lace embroidered in floral design in Brown wool trimmed with shirred dark Pink satin with white floral pattern, trimmed black and silver sequins and jet over pink brown velvet and sable with appliqués of black Chantilly lace, silk, trimmed with white chiffon niching Designed by W. Dunstan, New York insets of eyelet embroidery, pleated white Worn by Cléo de Mérode .American, about 1898 cotton, Valenciennes lace, and light green French, about 1899 Gift of Mrs. W. Bayard Cutting, 1940 silk Lent by Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Paris Cl40.106.36ab Label: Maison Agnès, Paris SL82"l"ab French, about 1903 Afternoon Dress Gift of Mrs. M.Julia, 1942 Formal Hat Light brown wool-silk blend trimmed with Cl42.l6l.4ab Black vervel trimmed with white ostrich black soutache appliqué in stylized floral feathers pattern and rust-colored velvet Day Suit Worn by Cléo de Mérode .American, about 1892 Black wool flannel French, about 1900 Gift of Mrs. Albert Shiels, 1941 American, about 1903 Lent by Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris CI 41.133.1 Lent by The Brooklyn Museum SL 82.71.3 SL82.103.4a-c Evening Wrap Inverness Cape Cream-colored wool broadcloth trimmed Evening Coat Black wool trimmed with black velvet with matching chenille fringe, mink, and Black velvet trimmed with green and yellow Label: Andrew J. Connick. New York Indian-motif appliqué in shades of blue, silk floral embroidery American, about 1890 purple, and gold Label: Paquin et Cie, Paris The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Label: Emile Pingat, Paris French, about 1893 Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe French, about 1891 Purchase, Marcia Sand Bequest, in memory of Fowler. 1981 Lent by The Brooklyn Museum her daughter, Tiger (Joan) Morse, 19"8 1981.380.4 SL 82.10315 19"8.295.5

Opera Cape Day Suit Overcoat Black wool broadcloth lined in melon- Brown wool broadcloth trimmed with Black wool trimmed with Kolinsky mink colored wool, trimmed with black silk appliqués of dark brown velvet, white Label: L M. Simpson, Burlington braid Brandenburg braid, and black dots in wave patterns Gift of Mrs. Ruth Brown Lance and Dr. and American, about 1900 American, about 1900 Mrs. Kendrick P. Lance. 1980 Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1982 Gift of Mrs. Martin. A Lillie, 1940 1980.439 1982.3693 CI 40.88.8ab Day Suit Formal Evening Suit Day Dress Charcoal-gray wool tweed trimmed with Black wool broadcloth trimmed with black Light gray silk and wool woven with red and topstitching satin and black silk braid brown flecks, trimmed with ivory satin, .American (?), about 1893 Label. Van Sickle and Conly. New York pewter-colored silk, dark brown ribbed Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1980 American, 1912 velvet, cream lace appliqué flowers, and 1980.145.5a-c Gift of Stanley F. Waldman, 19"9 paste buttons 19"9.59.2ab American, about 1894 Promenade Suit Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Navy-blue wool trimmed with topstitching Afternoon Dress Kent State and matching buttons Cream-colored Ottoman silk trimmed with SL82.110.2ab Label: A. H. Metzner, New York pleated white chiffon, white braid American, about 1900 Brandenburgs with tassels, and white satin Promenade Suit Gift of the heirs of Maud Van Cortlandt Taylor Worn by Cécile Ney d'Elchingen, princesse Green herringbone wool tweed trimmed Hill, 1965 Murat with dark green topstitching CI 65.30.3ab Label: Worth, Paris Label: F. X. Ledoux. New York French, about 1902 American, about 1900 Album Monte Carlo Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Gift of Mrs. William E. Dupree, 1955 A l'Hôtel de Paris Paris CI 55.54.2a-c Man with boutonnière Marcel Fouquier SL 82.27.5ab Colored lithograph Day Suit French, about 1900 Hat Gray wool flannel trimmed with pale green Mary Martin Fund, 1982 Black velvet trimmed with oversized oyster- velvet, green velvet buttons, black cord, 1982.1128.2 white silk faille bow and white angora Label: Francois, New York American, about 1903 Album Monte Carlo American, about 1905 Gift of The New-York Historical Society. 19"9 Grand Hôtel Lent by The Chicago Historical Society 1979.346.3ab L to R. around table: Henri Petellier, Marthe SL 82.139.5 Petellier, SEM (Georges Goursat), Paul- César Helleu Formal Morning Suit Colored lithograph Dark gray flannel bound with black silk French, about 1900 braid; gray wool in striped herringbone Man- Martin Fund, 1982 pattern 1982.1128.3 Label: Sandon and Co.. London English, about 1910 Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr.. 1%4 CI 64.6".2a-c

[7] Album Monte Carlo Album Monte Carlo A l'Hôtel de Paris La Roulette Newport/Bois de Boulogne L to R. around table: two unknown figures, L to R. standing: baron Henri de Sir Ernest Cassel, baronne Leopold de Donnesmark, comte Pecchi, Bion Rothschild, Maurice Ephrussi Spinoveh, Jeanne de Mirecourt, Louise Colored lithograph Galthy, Anna Held, baron Leopold de French, about 1900 Rothschild Mar)- Martin Fund, 1982 L to R. seated: Sir Ernest Cassel, J. P. Morgan, 1982.1128.4 Mr. de Rudini, Fayard, a Russian couple Colored lithograph Album Monte Carlo French, about 1900 A l'Hôtel de Paris Mary Martin Fund, 1982 Bottom table: King Leopold of Belgium 1982.1128.11 Colored lithograph French, about 1900 Album Monte Carlo Afternoon Dress Mary Martin Fund, 1982 La Roulette Irish crochet lace 1982.1128.5 L to R. standing: baron Alphonse de American, about 1903 Rothschild, the aviator Santos-Dumont, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. James E. Irving, 1980 Album Monte Carlo Réjane, Liane de Lancy, unknown figures, 1980.436ab A l'Hôtel de Paris lady with plumed hat Caroline Otero Bottom table: J. P. Morgan L to R. seated: Maurice Ephrussi, Polaire, Summer Suit Colored lithograph Prince Orloff(?) White cotton trimmed with eyelet French, about 1900 Colored lithograph embroidery and insets of filet, Mary Martin Fund, 1982 French, about 1900 Valenciennes, and Irish crochet lace 1982.1128.6 Mary Martin Fund, 1982 French, about 1900 1982.1128.12 Gift of Mrs. Joseph M. Shapiro, 1956 Album Monte Carlo CI 56.23.2ab Mais non, Mademoiselle, ce n'est pas LUI.1 Galland (But no, Miss, it is not HIM.') The Bar at Maxim's Summer Dress L to R.: Cleo de Mérode, King Leopold of (reproduction) Fine white muslin trimmed with eyelet Belgium (?) Watercolor embroidery, Valenciennes lace, fine tucks, Colored lithograph French, about 1903 and knotted lace French, about 1900 Courtesy Maxim's, Paris American, 1907 Mary Martin Fund, 1982 Gift of Mrs. Arthur S. Kleeman, 1940 1982.1128.7 CI 40.75.4

Album Monte Carlo Summer Dress A l'Hôtel de Paris Pale blue dotted swiss trimmed with Top table L: Grand Duke Nicholas Valenciennes-lace insets and ruffles and Bottom table R: Princess of Hohenlohe black velvet bows Colored lithograph American, about 1899 French, about 1900 Gift of Mrs. J. N. Thome, 1943 Mary Martin Fund, 1982 CI 43.44.7a-c 1982.1128.8 Summer Dress Album Monte Carlo White pleated lawn trimmed with Chantilly A l'Hôtel de Paris lace and pale pink faille ribbon L to R.: second man, Raoul Ginsbourg; fifth Worn by Cleo de Mérode in 1904 to an man, duc de Morny; sixth man, baron exhibition celebrating lace Alphonse de Rothschild, and his wife French, about 1887 Colored lithograph Lent by Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris French, about 1900 SL82.71.4ab Mary Martin Fund, 1982 1982.1128.9 Afternoon Hat White net with floral appliqués and filet-lace Album Monte Carlo insets, trimmed with pink silk faille, white L to R.: Caroline Otero, Liane de Pougy, Jean net, black velvet, and pink ostrich plumes Lorrain Worn by Cleo de Mérode Colored lithograph Label: Maison Virot, Paris French, about 1900 French, about 1901 Mary Martin Fund, 1982 Lent by Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris 1982.1128.10 SL 82.71.5

[8] Summer Dress Summer Dress Bicycle Suit White linen with scattered pink and beige White linen with eyelet embroidery in floral Navy-blue serge trimmed with topstitching bouquet print mingled with birds and and foliate pattern with insets of filet lace Label: A G Spalding and Brothers musical instruments, trimmed with fine and Irish crochet lace American, about 1902 tucks and Valenciennes lace American or European, about 1906 Purchase, Hoeschst Fibers Industries Gift, 1982 .American, about 1904 Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren. 19"6 1982.133-4ab Gift of Mrs. Wm. Floyd Nichols and Mrs. B. 19~6.258.il Langdon Tyler. 19" Lady's Bicycle 19"5.248.3ab Summer Dress Silver metal with forest-green and gold paint, White cotton with white foliate embroidery, varnished pine and brown leather Summer Dress crochet-lace appliqués, and insets of filet Label: March Davis Cycle Co., Chicago White cotton batiste trimmed with eyelet lace, trimmed with white satin ribbon American, about 189" embroidery, fine tucks, and Valenciennes .American, about 1903 Lent by David Metz lace Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren, 19"6 SL82.160 .American, about 1904 19"6.258.13 Gift of Estate of Valerie J. Dreyfus, 195" Summer Dress a 57.22.13 Summer Dress White cotton piqué trimmed with White linen trimmed with tape-lace and filet- needlework insertion and mother-of-pearl Summer Dress lace insets buttons White cotton printed with small blue flowers, .American, about 1900 American, about 1899 trimmed with insets of Valenciennes lace Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Gift of .Aline Bernstein, 193" American, about 1903 Kent State CI3"60.l4ab Lent by The Brooklyn Museum SL82.110.l4ab SL82.10322ab Sports Coat Day Dress Ecru wool ground with stripes in shades of Summer Dress Beige crepe with appliqués of cream-colored red, green, and blue White linen trimmed with vertical piping and wool broadcloth in .Art Nouveau scroll American, about 1893 pleated ruffles edged with Valenciennes motif, trimmed with cream-colored velvet Gift of Collin Clements. 194" lace and chiffon CI 4" 43.1 Worn by .Anna Gould, marquise Boniface de .American, about 1901 Castellane Lent by The Brookhn Museum Summer Suit Label: Redfern, Paris SL 82.10321 White cotton piqué trimmed with white braid French, about 1908 Worn by Caroline Schermerhorn .Astor Wilson Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume. Hunting Cape Label: Doucet, Paris Paris Brown heningbone-patterned Harris tweed French, about 1903 SL82.2".13ab trimmed with topstitching Gift of Orme Wilson and R Thornton Wilson, English, about 1900 in memory of their mother. Mrs. Caroline Summer Dress Funds from various donors, 1980 Schermerhorn .Astor Wilson. 1949 Pink cotton inset with filet lace, trimmed with 1980.16.1 CI 493-33ab tiers of self-fabric and matching satin ribbon .American, about 1903 Hunting Suit Polo Coat Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Beige wide-wale corduroy trimmed with White wool trimmed with topstitching and Kent State topstitching mother-of-pearl buttons SL82.110.9ab American, about 1900 Label: Brooks Brothers, New York Gift of Vera Maxwell. 19"8 .American, about 1909 Summer Dress 1978.39.la-d Lent by The Brooklyn Museum White spotted net trimmed with ecru ribbon SL 82.1035 and Valenciennes and Venetian lace Day Shoes American, about 1904 Brown leather Day Blouse Gift of Lillie A Martin, 1940 Worn by baron Fould-Springer White silk net embroidered in scattered floral CI 40.88.2ab Label: A Rhode. Paris design, trimmed with insets and appliqués French, about 1910 of Valenciennes lace Summer Suit Lent anonymously Designed by Jean-Philippe Worth, Paris White linen and tape lace with net insets SL82.l49.5ab French, about 1905 American or European, about 1904 Gift of Mrs. Joseph M. Shapiro. 1956 Gift of Phylis Simms Scofield. 19"6 Inverness Cape CI 56.23.3c 19"6.308.15ab Brown, green, and white checked wool meed lined with plaid wool in red, green, Blouse Summer Dress and black Sheer white cotton with insets of White linen with white eyelet embroidery. .American, about 1900 Valenciennes and Irish crochet lace trimmed with tucks and Irish crochet lace Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest. 1949 American, about 1903 American or European, about 1903 CI 49.49.3 Gift of the Women's Alliance, 1945 Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren, 19~6 CI 45.42.6 19"6.258.12ab HackingJacket Charcoal-black wool twill with black celluloid buttons with monogram of the Meadow Brook Hunt. Long Island Label: Sandon and Co., London English, about 1900 Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, 1979 1979.152.6

[9] Summer Skirt Sports Skirt White linen with allover foliate design in White linen trimmed with pleats Ballroom couched white cord with netted thread Worn by Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson centers American, about 1900 (Green Wallpaper Gallery) American or European, about 1903 Gift of Orme Wilson and R. Thornton Wilson, Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren, 1976 in memory of their mother, Mrs. Caroline 19~6.258.14 Schermerhorn Astor Wilson, 1949 CI 49.3-34 Summer Dress Sheer white batiste trimmed with fine tucks, Child's Party Dress fagoting, filet lace, and Valenciennes lace Fine ecru cotton with insets of ecru American, about 1903 Valenciennes lace, trimmed with pink satin Gift of Mrs. John E. Chiquoine, 1950 ribbon and matching rosettes; underdress CI 50.99ab of pink China silk American, 1904 Tea Gown Sailor Dress Gift of Olive Floyd. 1946 Black and white floral brocade trimmed with Natural beige linen trimmed with white braid CI 46"3.4 black velvet and pleated black chiffon appliqué; white cotton dickey- English (?), about 1900 embroidered with grey and red anchor Duster Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, motif Grey mohair trimmed with celluloid buttons Kent State Label: Peter Thompson, New York American, about 1905 SL 82.110.19 American, about 1900 Gift of Ruth Payne Burgess, 1950 The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume CI 50.42.1 Evening Gown Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe (modern copy) Fowler, 1980 Sporting Jacket White silk trimmed with appliqués of foliate 1980.171.3a-c Beige wool checked in black, light green, embroidery in gold and silver metallic and red, trimmed with brown celluloid thread, beads, and sequins, and pleated Sports Jacket buttons ecru chiffon Red wool trimmed with topstitching and Worn by baron Fould-Springer Original worn by Queen Margherita of Italy brass buttons with golfing motif French (?), about 1910 After Callot Soeurs, Paris Label: F. X. Ledoux, New York Lent anonymously French, about 1903 American, about 1898 SL 82.149.2a Lent by L'mberto Tirelli Gift of Mrs. William E. Dupree, 1955 SL 82.108.7 CI 55.54.1 Motoring Coat Natural-colored raw silk lined in red, gold, Evening Gown Golf Bag and white paisley satin, trimmed with brass Black silk net embroidered in black sequins Wicker with brown leather shoulder strap buttons over black chiffon, trimmed with peach- American, about 1900 Label: A Shuman and Co., Boston colored voided velvet and black beads and The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume American, about 1903 sequins Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe Gift of Mrs. Earl Rowe, 1951 Worn by Lina Cavalieri Fowler, 1981 CI 51.15.4 Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris Inst. 1981.9.1 French, about 1902 Lent by Umberto Tirelli Afternoon Suit SL 82.108.1 Off-white linen trimmed with applied white cording in stylized floral pattern and Evening Gown mother-of-pearl buttons Black velvet trimmed with white satin lilies American, about 1909 embroidered in gold paillettes, gold Gift of Mrs. James Pond, 1939 thread, and pearls CI 39.82.3a-c Worn by Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay, comtesse Greffulhe Summer Dress Designed by Jean-Philippe Worth, Paris White linen trimmed with insets of Irish French, about 1896 crochet lace and with appliquéd bands Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, embroidered in white floral pattern and Paris eyelet butterfly medallions SL 82.27.1 American, about 1910 Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 19"6 Evening Gown 19"6.318.6 Black velvet trimmed with bands of black sequins and black satin Shirtwaist Worn by Queen Margherita of Italy Pink figured cotton with white floral design, Label: Deloire, Paris trimmed with collar and cuffs of starched French, about 1904 white linen Lent by L'mberto Tirelli American, about 1896 SL82.108.4ab Gift of Rodman A Heeren, 1959 CI 59.32.4

10] Evening Gown Tiara Dinner Dress White satin voided with black velvet in Art (modem copy) Blue-green silk brocaded in floral pattern in Nouveau scroll design, trimmed with black Synthetic emeralds and diamonds set in silver silver metallic thread embroidered in velvet and white net Original worn by a member of the imperial crystals, pearls, and silver metallic braid Worn by Lach- Decies family of Russia and matching silk faille, trimmed with light Label: Worth. Paris Russian (?), about 1900 green velvet and ecru chiffon French, about 1898 Lent by Van Cleef and Arpéis. New York Worn by Queen Margherita of Italy Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren. 19"6 SL 82.157 Attributed to Jean-Philippe Worth. Paris 19"6.258.1ab French, about 1898 Ball Gown Lent by Umberto Tirelli Full-Dress Uniform Pink satin embroidered in swag, wreath and SL82.108.3ab Black wool broadcloth embroidered in oak- bow motif in rhinestones, red and green leaf motif in gold metallic thread and gold stones, and silver metallic thread, trimmed Ball Gown sequins, and white wool broadcloth with Valenciennes lace and pleated pink Black velvet voided in rose pattern to black Worn by an ambassador or a minister in the chiffon satin ground and cream-colored satin, British diplomatic senice Worn by Anne Morgan trimmed with cream-colored lace, white Label: Davies and Son, London Label: Worth, Paris net, and black satin bow English, 1st quarter of 20th century French, about 1900 Label: Worth. Paris Gift of A Norris Kennard, 19"9 Gift of Estate of Anne Morgan, 1952 French, about 189" 1979.243.la-t CI 52.60"a-d Gift of Mrs William Glenn, 1945 CI 45.95 "ab Ceremonial Gown Ball Gown Black tulle embroidered with lily pattern in Ecru net embroidered in allover floral pattern Ceremonial Dress gold and silver metallic thread over black in beads and sequins in gold, white, and Gold lamé covered in cream-colored net satin, trimmed with black chiffon and tulle blue over ecru satin embroidered in floral pattern in gold and Worn by Queen .Alexandra for a coronation Label: Lingerie Françoise. New York silver paillettes, and beads trimmed with court American, about 1902 gold metallic lace and sable Designed by Jean-Philippe Worth Gift of Mrs. Wm. Floyd Nichols and Mrs. B. W om by Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay. (embroidered by the wives of all the ruling Langdon Tyler, 19" 5 comtesse Greffulhe, at her daughter's princes of India) 19~5.248.9ab wedding to the duc de Guiche French. 1904 Label: Worth, Paris (embroidery by Mati. Paris) Gift of Irene Lewisohn. 193" Evening Dress French. 1904 CI 3" 44.9a-d Black taffeta covered by black sequins on Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, black net. trimmed with matching tulle and Paris Evening Gown chiffon niching, with black sequin SL82.2-.0 Pale yellow tulle embroidered with gold butterflies tissue flowers, gold and silver sequins, and Label: Frederick Loeser and Co.. Brooklyn Hat gold bugle beads over pale yellow satin, .American, about 1901 Gold metallic net embroidered in gold and trimmed with matching chiffon Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss. 1935 silver sequins and gold thread, trimmed Worn by Queen Alexandra for the Kaiser 35.134.15 with bird-of-paradise feathers, black velvet, William II state visit and brown net French. 190" Evening Gown Worn by Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay. Rogers Fund. 193" Black Chantilly lace with appliqués of black comtesse Greffulhe 37.94 velvet irises embroidered with black Designed by Auguste Petit, Paris sequins over white satin, trimmed with French, 1904 Evening Gown black velvet and chiffon Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume. Mauve sequin embroider,- on mauve tulle Worn by Queen Margherita of Italy- Paris with bowknot motifs in darker mauve Label: Worth, Paris SL82.2— sequins French, about 1902 Worn by Queen Alexandra during the Lent by L'mberto Tirelli Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) Coronation year SL 82.108.5 Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, and Her Label: Henriette Favre, Paris Son, Lord Ii-or Spencer-Churchill French, 1902 Court Presentation Suit Oil on canvas Gift of Irene Lewisohn. 193" Blue velvet and white satin, trimmed with Italian. 1906 CI 3" 44.1 cut-steel buttons and black braid Gift of Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan, 194Ó Worn by Edward Hubbard Litchfield for 4_" 1 Evening Gown presentation to Edward \1I Mauve sequins embroidered on black tulle. English. 190- Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) with mauve chiffon and satin Lent by The Brooklyn Museum Cleo de Mérode Worn by Queen .Alexandra during the SL82.10324a-g Oil on canvas Coronation year Italian. 1901 French. 1902 Lent by a private collection. New York Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" SL 82.126.1 CI 3" 44.2ab Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) Marthe Régnier Oil on canvas Italian. 1905 Lent by a private collection. New York SL 82.126.1

11 Charles-Emile-Auguste Carolus-Duran Bridesmaid's Dress (1838-1917) Pink satin trimmed with matching ribbons Mrs. William Astor Floral Wallpaper Gallery edged with pearls and small glass beads, Oil on canvas with point-d'esprit overlays and ruffles French, 1890 Label: Mme O. Donovan, New York Gift of R. Thornton Wilson and Orme Wilson, American, about 1896 1949 Gift of Mrs. F. T Somerset Cornell, 1947 49.4 CI 47.66.2a-c

Georges Clairin (1843-1919) Evening Gown Sarah Bernhardt Pink chiffon with appliqués of pink silk Oil on canvas flowers, gold metallic net, and green silk French, 1876 leaves embroidered in pearls, trimmed Lent by Musée du Petit Palais, Paris with ecru net and Valenciennes lace SL 82.102 Evening Dress Label: Redfern, Paris Scarlet velvet trimmed with self-fabric French, about 1908 Sir John Everett Millals (1829-1896) shirrings Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Portia Label: Worth, Paris Paris Oil on canvas French, about 1895 SL 82.27.14 British, 1886 Gift of Mrs. Frederick M. Godwin, 1954 Wolfe Fund, 1906, Catharine Lorillard Wolfe CI54.4.1a-c Evening Gown Collection Pink velvet embroidered in pink silk and 06.1328 Ball Gown purple metallic thread in floral pattern, Yellow-green satin brocaded in design of trimmed with point-d'Angletene lace goldenrod in olive and golden tones, Worn by Anna Gould, marquise Boniface de trimmed with orange satin, orange chiffon, Castellane and yellow chiffon, embroidered in yellow Label: Redfern, Paris floral design French, about 1903 Attributed to Emile Pingat, Paris Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, French, about 1891 Paris Purchase, Marcia Sand Bequest, in memory of SL 82.27.12 her daughter, Tiger (Joan) Morse, 1978 1978.295.6ab Ball Gown Pink satin voided with white and pink Art Evening Gown Nouveau floral design, trimmed with pink Bright green satin brocaded in cream-colored net, lattice-pattern embroidery in pearls Venetian-lace pattern with green damask and rhinestones, and pearl fringe bows, trimmed with self-fabric flowers and Worn by Lady Decies green satin Label: Worth, Paris Worn by Lina Cavalieri French, about 1898 Label: Bellom Sorelle, Turin-Florence Gift of Eva Drexel Dahlgren, 1976 Italian, about 1892 1976.258.5ab Lent by Umberto Tirelli SL82.108.2ab Dress and Hooded Cape Light pink satin trimmed with smocking, Evening Gown matching foliate embroidery, point-de- Pink and silver lamé and pink velvet, Venise lace, and a geometric border in trimmed with polychrome design of birds shades of red, green, and beige, with pink and flowers with matching beads and silk tassels rhinestones Label: Liberty and Co., London and Paris Worn by Anna Gould, marquise Boniface de English, about 1905 Castellane Funds from various donors, 1979 Label: Redfern, Paris 1979.176a-c French, about 1900 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Ball Gown Paris Pink silk with fancy-weave iris motif in satin SL 82.27.1 lab and ivory silk, trimmed with crystal embroidery on white net Ball Gown Worn by Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson Pink velvet trimmed with embroidered lilies Label: Worth, Paris in silver sequins, white net, and pink French, about 1892 chenille, pleated pink chiffon, and Gift of Orme Wilson and R. Thornton Wilson, Valenciennes lace in memory of their mother, Mrs. Caroline Worn by Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson Schermerhorn Astor Wilson, 1949 Label: Doucet, Paris CI 49.3.25ab French, about 1898 Gift of Orme Wilson and R Thornton Wilson, in memory of their mother, Mrs. Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson, 1949 CI 49.3.30ab

[12] Opera Coat Letter Box Evening Dress Pink panne silk velvet embroidered in gold Red leather trimmed with gilt and brass White silk chiffon with satin stripe, printed metallic braid, gold sequins, and crystal English, about 1900 with lilacs, trimmed with white net beads in design of wheat, flowers, and Lent by Mrs William F. Buckley. Jr. embroidered in floral pattern in sequins, leaves, trimmed with gold galloon tassels SL 82.162 beads, and silk floss, Valenciennes lace and and mink lilac silk Worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Armchair Label: Knight and Lee, Southsea French, about 1903 Caned mahogany with foliate motifs and English, about 1900 Gift of Cornelius Vanderbilt and Mrs. Robert L lion-paw feet, with red leather Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Stevens. 1953 .American, about 1900 Kent State CI 53.32.1 Lent by John Richardson SL 82.110.4 SL 82.158 Ball Gown Evening Gown Salmon-pink silk net embroidered with pink Palace Gala Livery Pale blue silk chiffon printed with green, and silver sequins, beads, and paillettes, Royal-blue velvet embroidered in gold blue, and pink floral garlands and trimmed with white Chantilly lace, white metallic thread in pattern of Devon rose, embroidered with silver sequins, over net. and pink silk flowers, over matching trimmed with gold and silver braid matching blue satin, trimmed with white satin English, early 20th century net worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Lent by Moss Brothers, London Worn by Cécile Ney d'EIchingen, princesse French, about 1903 SL82.l44.la-h Murat Gift of Cornelius Vanderbilt and Mrs. Robert L Label: Worth, Paris Stevens, 1953 Ball Gown French, about 1900 CI 53.32.2ab Oyster-white satin brocaded in foliate and Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, floral pattern in shades of green, pink, and Paris Evening Wrap yellow, trimmed with white chiffon and SL82.2"10ab Pink satin brocaded in gold metallic floral green ribbons design and peach-colored velvet, trimmed Worn by Mrs. .Andrew Carnegie Ball Gown with pink rocaille appliqués and peach Label: Worth. Paris Pale blue silk moiré patterned with satin chenille fringe French, about 1895 diamonds and embroidered in silver Label: Emile Pingat. Paris Gift of Mrs. James G Flockhart, 1968 metallic floral pattern, over cream-colored French, about 1890 CI 68.53. Hab satin, trimmed with chartreuse velvet Lent by The Brooklyn Museum Label: Emile Pingat, Paris SL 82.103.1 " Evening Gown French, about 1890 Cream-colored silk faille with blue and Purchase. Marcia Sand Bequest, in memory of Evening Gown brown floral bouquets and blue serpentine her daughter. Tiger (Joan) Morse, 1978 Cream silk net with appliqués of Chantilly stripes, trimmed with green and black 19-8.295.^ab lace, gauze, garlands of pink silk rosebuds, velvet, black ribbon, and Valenciennes lace and gold sequins, over pale pink chiffon Label: Worth. Paris Theatrical Costume French, about 1899 French, about 1894 Violet-colored satin brocaded in gold and Gift of Mrs. Wm. Floyd Nichols and Mrs. B. Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume. silver Persian pattern embroidered with Langdon Tyler. 1975 Paris pearls, trimmed with beige silk, magenta 19~5.248.2ab SL82.2-.3ab silk embroidered in gold and purple metallic threads in paisley pattern, gold Mourning Bodice Evening Gown lamé, pearls, gold braid, and stones of blue Black silk and crepe, trimmed with pleated Ivon satin with multicolored floral and purple glass black chiffon and white organza embroidery, trimmed with pearl appliqué Supposedly worn by Sarah Bernhardt in Worn by Queen Victoria and white chiffon Gismonda English, about 1898 Label: Marie Reeves, New York French, about 1894 Lent by Castle Howard. York .American, about 1893 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, SL 82.111.1a Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection. Paris Kent State SL 82.27.9ab Mourning Shawl SL82.110. lab Black wool trimmed with black silk foliate Anonymous embroidery, black Chantilly lace, and black Ball Gown A Street Artist at Work beads Ivory-colored satin trimmed with silver Watercolor English, late 19th century sequins, hand-painted cornflowers covered French, about 1900 Lent by Castle Howard. York with an overlay of ivory gauze appliqués, Lent by Didier Aaron, Inc., New York SL 82.111.3 pale blue chiffon, and self-fabric bows SL 82.152.2 Worn by Mrs. Andrew Carnegie Star and Sash of the Order of the Garter Label: Worth. Paris Louise Abbema (1858-1927) (modem copy) French, about 1894 Mademoiselle Samary Silver metallic trimmed with red paint and Gift of Mrs. James G Flockhart, 1968 Oil on canvas blue silk faille ribbon CI 68.53-lOab French, 1879 English Lent by François Gerard Seligmann Lent by Madame Tussaud's. London SL 82.28.5 SL82.109ab

[13] Barbau Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta Woman with Dog (1841-1920) Blue Gallery Astrine Oil on panel Comtesse Adhéaume de Cbevigné French, 1883 Oil on canvas Lent by Didier Aaron, Inc., New York Spanish, about 1905 SL 82.152.3 Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Philippe de Montebello SL82.120 Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) .Urs. Charles Warren-Cram Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta Oil on canvas (1841-1920) Italian, 1885 Girls at a Window Gift of Mrs. Edward C. Moên, 1959 Oil on canvas 59.78 Spanish, about 188" Bequest of Catharine Lorillard Wolfe. 188". Charles-Emile-Auguste Carolus-Duran Catharine Lorillard Wolfe Collection Evening Coat (1838-1917) 87.15.131 Gray silk stenciled in gold stripe and foliate Marguerite and Albert de Broglie design, trimmed with blue silk and glass Oil on canvas Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta beads French, 1890 (1841-1920) Worn by Eleonora Duse Lent by François Gerard Seligmann Masquerade Ball at tlx Ritz Hotel. Paris Label: Fortuny. Venice SL 82.28.3 Oil on canvas Italian, about 1912 Spanish. 1909 Lent by the Cini Foundation. Venice Georges Clairin (1843-1919) Bequest of Emma T Gars-. 1934 SL 82.-2.1 Portrait of a Lady in a White Dress 3-20.3 Oil on canvas Tea Gown French, about 1880 De Montzaible Gray silk stenciled in gold floral and foliate Lent by Didier Aaron, Inc.. New York A Lady in a Bax at the Paris Opéra design SL 82.152.5 Watercolor Worn by Eleonora Duse French, about 1902 Label: Fortuny. Venice Georges Clairin (1843-1919) Lent by Didier Aaron. Inc.. New York Italian, about 1912 Three Women SL 82.152." Lent by the Cini Foundation. Venice Oil on canvas SL 82.-2.2 French, about 1898 Mlhály de Munkácsy (1844-1909) Lent by Didier .Aaron, Inc.. New York Tl.ie Music Room Afternoon Dress SL 82.152.6 Oil on canvas Beige chiffon covered with large printed Hungarian, about 1880 blue, black, green, and yellow flowers, William T. Dannai (1853-1929) Bequest of Mrs. Martha T Fiske Collord, in inset with panels of ecru lace, trimmed Caroline Otero memory of Josiah M. Fiske. 1908 with blue satin ribbon, bows, and tassels Oil on canvas 08.136.11 Said to have been worn by Lillie Langtry American, 189" English, about 1905 Lent by Vincent Fourcade Jean-François Raffaëlll (1850-1924) Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection. SL 82.143 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Paris Kent State Oil on canvas SL 82.110.6 A.B. Gil French, about 1900 Portrait of a Woman Wolfe Fund. 1908. Catharine Lorillard Wolfe Oil on canvas Collection Scarf French (?), about 1880 08.123 Ecru silk with floral embroidery in yellow, Lent by Didier Aaron. Inc., New York gold, and black, trimmed with self-fringe SL 82.152.4 Jean-François Raffaëlli (1850-1924) Label: René Lalique. Paris The Fletcher Mansion. Sew York City French, 1st decade of 20th century Max Klepper (1861-1907) Oil on canvas Purchase. Irene Lewisohn Bequest. 1958 Electric Bugg}' Along die Hudson French, about 1900 CI 58.30 Oil on canvas Bequest of Issac D. Fletcher. 191". Mr. and German, about 1904 Mrs. Issac D. Fletcher Collection Fan Lent by Eric Chauvet 17.120.228 Ivon brisé trimmed with a white silk tassel SL 82.140 Label: Bon Marché. Paris Jacques Wely (1873-1910) French, 1st quarter of 20th century Edmond-Edouard Lapeyre (1880-1960) After Dinner Gift of Mrs. C. O. Kalman. 19~9 Anna de Soailles Watercolor 19-9.569.22 Oil on canvas French, about 1902 French, 1909 Lent by Didier Aaron. Inc.. New York Belt Lent by François Gerard Seligmann SL 82.152.1 Purple silk cord and tassels, trimmed with SL 82.28.1 foliate crystal beads and a crystal plaque of Anders Leonard Zorn (1860-1920) a nymph picking grapes Mrs Walter Rathbone Bacon René Lalique Oil on canvas French, about 1908 Swedish. 189" Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Gift of Mrs. Walter Rathbone Bacon, in SL 82.150.18 memory of her husband. 191" 17.204

[14] Comb Pendant and Chain Pendant Hom and silver Gold, enamel, glass, and diamonds Pair of gold peacocks with blue, green, white, René Lalique René Lalique and black enamel set with large opal French, about 1900 French, about 1905-1910 flanked by diamonds; pearl pendant Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1924 Gift of Man- F. Failing, in memory of her René Lalique 24.145.4 sister, Henrietta Ellison Failing, 1944 French, about 1900 44.123.1 Lent anonymously Hat SL82.153 Pleated white organdy on natural straw Chain Label: Tappe, New York Gold, enamel, pearls, and diamonds Fan American, about 1916 René Lalique Lilac ostrich feathers with mother-of-pearl Lent by The Chicago Historical Society French, about 1900 sticks SL 82.139.4 Bequest of Man Kellogg Hopkins, 1941 American or European, 1900-1925 45.28.5 Gift of Lydia O. Lauter, 1978 Vase 1978.166.2 Porcelain Necklace Georges de Feure Gold links and wheat motifs, trimmed with Pendant Jewel French, 1898-1904 light green enamel Gold, enamel, diamonds, and baroque pearl Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1926 René Lalique Austrian, about 1900 26.228.10 French, about 1900 Gift of Mrs. Mercedes Meyerhof, in memory Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon of Mrs. Hedwig Hallgarten, 1968 Chain SL 82.150.13 68.35 Enamel, gold, and brilliants René Lalique Watch and Chain Hand Mirror French, about 1892 Gold with blue and green enamel in lily-pad Bronze, mirror glass, and moonstone Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1924 and iris design Rupert Carabin 24.145.5 Watch by Sandoz French, 1906-1907 French, about 1900 Gift of Rosenberg & Stiebel, Inc., 1979 Pendant Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon 19"9.554 Gold medal of Cybele set in gold foliate SL 82.150.15, SL 82.150.7 forms, enameled in green and pink, set Ceremonial Dress with rubies and pearls Lorgnette and Chain Gold and silver metallic embroidery in Pendant by Eugène Grasset: medal by Louis Gold, enamel, diamonds, jade, and glass peacock-feather design on cream-colored Bottée René Lalique silk trimmed with pleated ecru chiffon, French, 1898 French, about 1900 gold sequins, rhinestones, beige silk Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Gift of Mrs. J. G Phelps Stokes, 1965 flowers, and lace SL 82.150.10 65.154ab Worn by Lack' Curzon, vicereine of India, at the state ball of the Delhi durbar Dressing-Table Set Vase Designed by Jean-Philippe Worth, Paris (Hand mirror, hairbrush, comb, and clothes Porcelain (fabric made in India) brush) Georges de Feure French, 1903 Silver, enamel, and turquoise French, 1898-1904 Lent by Lady Alexandra Metcalfe Liberty and Co., London Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1926 SL 82.14 lab English, 1902-1906 26.228.9 Anonymous Gift, 1982 Shoe Trunk 1982.335.1-4 Brooch Twelve pairs of formal shoes in brown Gold figure of a fain with green, pink, and leather trunk lined with cream-colored silk Belt Buckle blue enamel, trimmed with diamonds and Worn by Rita de Acosta Lydig Silver pearls Designed by Yantorny, Paris Anna Wagner French, about 1890 French, about 1912 Austrian, 1904 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Gift of Capezio, Inc., 1953 Rogers Fund, 1908 SL 82.150.14 CI 53.76 08"0.12ab Pendant Lorgnette Cup and Saucer Enamel and gold Platinum in design of coiled serpents set with Porcelain René Lalique diamonds Georges de Feure French, about 1900 Cartier, New York French, 1900 Gift of Albert M. Kohn, 1910 -American, about 1905 Gift of R. Haase, 1926 10.21 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 26.248.10-11 41.84.19 Brooch Plate Gold female profile Comb Porcelain René Lalique Tortoiseshell with pierced arabesque design Georges de Feure French, 1895-1900 set with diamonds French, 1898-1904 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Tiffany and Co., New York Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1926 SL 82.150.1" American, about 1910 26.228.14 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 41.84.16

[15] Brooch Necklace Glove Buttoner Emerald encircled by diamonds set in Gold link chain with three cross pendants set Gold chain and monogram set with diamonds platinum with cabochon sapphires and pearls American, about 1900 American, about 1900 Carlo Giuliano Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1953 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1953 English, about 1880 53.153.4 53.153.1 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon SL 82.150.8 Bottle with Stopper Pendant Glass Rock crystal set in gold with blue and white Pendant Cross Daum Frères, Nancy enamel trimmed with pearls Cabochon sapphire, pearls, cabochon rubies French, about 1900 Carlo Giuliano and emeralds, set in gold Gift of Charles B. Hoyt, 1929 English, about 1875 English, about 1875 29.25.3ab Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon SL 82.150.3 SL 82.150.25 Bracelet Gold with filigree with Egyptian-style scarabs Corsage Pin Pendant Cross Attributed to Alessandro Castellani Floral spray of diamonds set in gold Renaissance-style gold mount with blue, Italian, 1860-70 Tiffany and Co., New York white, and black enamel trimmed with Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon American, about 1895 emeralds, rubies, and pearls SL 82.150.1 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 Carlo Giuliano 4l.84.20a-e English, about 1880 Bracelet Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Gold and multicolored cloisonné enamel in Pendant SL 82.150.9 floral and foliate patterns Gold enameled in blue, white, black, and Lucien Falize red, set with peridots Necklace French, about 1890 Carlo Giuliano Gold rocaille forms with black and white Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon English, about 1875 enamel set with topaz SL 82.150.5 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon English, 1860-70 SL 82.150.2 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Bracelet SL 82.112.23 Gold with arabesque filigree trim and Cross Pendant and Chain micromosaic, after the fresco Aurora by Gold openwork with white and green enamel Pendant Guido Reni set with diamonds Renaissance-style with emeralds, rubies, Italian, about 1875 L Gautrait diamonds, and pearls set in gold with blue, Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon French, about 1900 white, and green enamel SL 82.150.21 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon English (?), about 1875 SL 82.150.26 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Vase SL 82.150.28 Glass Choker Emile Gallé Platinum buckle in vine motif set with Pendant French, about 1875-1900 diamonds, on black velvet ribbon Gold filigree enameled in white, pink, green, Gift of Gertrude Moira Flanagan, 1972 American, about 1900 and red, set with diamonds, an amethyst, 1972.170.2 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1953 and a pearl 53.153.3ab Italian (?), about 1870 Necklace Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Green enamel on gold set with rubies and Veil Pin SL82.150.il peridots Platinum set with diamonds In the style of Carlo Giuliano American, about 1905 Comb English, about 1890 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 Blond tortoiseshell and gold, decorated with Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon 41.84.13 green enamel leaves and applied pearls SL 82.150.24 Florence Koehler Veil Pin American, about 1900 Necklace Platinum snake set with diamonds and Gift of Emily Crane Chadboume, 1952 Green enamel on gold grape leaves with emeralds 52.43.3 clusters of grapes and gold link chain American, about 1905 Louis Comfort Tiffany Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 Brooch American, about 1914 41.84.14 Gold and pink, green, and yellow enamel in Gift of Sarah E. Hanley, 1946 foliate design, set with diamonds 46.168.1 Watch and Pin French, about 1895 Bezel of glass set with diamonds, white Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Necklace enamel with blue numerals, snake motif in SL 82.150.16 Alexandrite pendant with enamel, gold overlaid with platinum semiprecious stones, and gold Tiffany and Co., New York Brooch Louis Comfort Tiffany American, about 1910 Kunzite flanked by diamonds and pearls in American, about 1914 Gift of Susan Dwight Bliss, 1941 gold mount with plique-à-jour enamel Gift of Sarah E. Hanley, 1946 4l.84.15ab Marcus and Co., London 46.168.2 English, about 1900 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon SL 82.150.20

[16] Pendant Brooch Box with Lid Fan Sapphire surrounded by emeralds, sapphires. Glass, enameled and gilded White and brown striped ostrich feathers with and pearls set in gold with green enamel Emile Gallé sticks of dark tortoiseshell foliate motif French, about 1880 .American or European, late 19th century Florence Koehler Purchase, Bequest of Barbara S. Adler, by Gift of Mrs. Erna Kastan. 1978 American, about 1900 exchange and Rogers Fund, 1977 1978.113 Gift of Emily Crane Chadboume, 1952 19—.239ab 52.43.1 Brooch Bottle with Stopper Nymph and putti in gold and silver Vase Glass Emile Froment-Meurice Glass Emile Gallé French, 1880-90 Emile Gallé French, about 1880-90 Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon French, late 19th century Gift of John C Moore. 1940 SL 82.150.19 Gift of John C Moore. 1940 40.139.2ab 40.139.1 Cicada Brooch Evening Shoes Gold Necklace and Earrings Mauve satin trimmed with embroidery in French (?), about 1890 Opals, diamonds, and emeralds set in silver purple sequins and gold beads in Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon in serpent shape arabesque patterns SL 82.150.12 English, about 1900 Worn by Queen Alexandra Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon English, about 1904 Evening Shoes SL82.150.2"a-c Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" Black satin embroidered in purple sequins Q37.44.17ab Worn by Queen .Alexandra Butterfly Brooch English, about 1904 Emeralds, rubies, pearls, sapphires, garnets. Evening Stockings Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 1937 and diamonds set in gold Mauve silk trimmed with openwork CI3"+4.13ab French (?). about 1900 (?) Worn by Queen Alexandra Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon English, about 1904 Evening Shoes SL 82.150.4 Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" White satin with painted floral design in pink, CI3"44.1"cd green, and blue Pâte-de-Verre Plate Worn by Queen -Alexandra Pâte-de-verre Hat English, about 18"5 Henri Berge for Alméric Walter Black velvet embroidered in silver metallic Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" French, about 1919-25 floral pattern, with fifteen circular brass CI3"-44.19ab Collection of Stanley Siegel. Gift of Celia frames with photographs of members of Siegel. 19~5 the royal family; trimmed with gold and Day Shoes 1975.72.3 silver tassel Black satin embroidered in gold metallic Worn by Queen .Alexandra thread in royal crown with Jubilee 1887 Vase English, about 1905 Worn by Queen Alexandra Glass Gift of Irene Lewisohn. 193" English, 188" Emile Gallé CI 37.44,4 Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" French, about 1898 CI 3"44.l6ab Purchase. Edward C. Moore. Jr. Gift, 1922 Vase 22.184.13 Glass Evening Stockings Emile Gallé Black silk trimmed with insets of filet lace Fan French, 1896 and red and green silk floral embroidery White ostrich feathers on mother-of-pearl Purchase, Edward C. Moore, Jr. Gift, 1926 Worn by Queen -Alexandra sticks trimmed with silver and gold gilt 26.228.8 English, about 1880 European, about 1895 Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" Gift of Mrs. Alan L Corey. Jr.. Mrs. William T Fan CI3-.44.l6cd Newbold, and .Mrs. A G Paine, II, 1980 Ivon and coral turkey feathers on blond 1980.126.10 tortoiseshell sticks Evening Stockings American or European. 1st quarter of 20th Ecru silk trimmed with foliate pattern Necklace century Worn by Queen Alexandra White and gold beads with butterflies and Gift of Mrs. -Alan L Corey. Jr.. Mrs. William T English, about 1880 flowers in green and blue beads with gold Newbold. and Mrs. A G. Paine, II, 1980 Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" clasp 1980.126.14 Ci3-.44.l4ab French. 1906 Gift of Katherine C. Bermingham, 1969 Fan Riding Hat CI 69.30a Brown-tipped white ostrich feathers on Black velvet trimmed with black spotted net, tortoiseshell sticks pink and black ostrich plumes Wing Brooch Label: Howard and Co.. Paris and New York Worn by Queen .Alexandra Moonstone and diamonds set in gold with French, about 1895 English, about 1904 green and yellow enamel Gift of Mrs. Alan L Corey, Jr.. Mrs. William T. Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 193" Carlo Giuliano Newbold. and Mrs. A G. Paine. II. 1980 CI 3" 49.3b English, about 1890 1980.126.15ab Lent by Dona and Bernard C. Solomon SL 82.150.22

[17] Evening Stole Promenade Suit Evening Gown Black silk net trimmed with couleur-de- Oyster-white wool with woven vertical black White satin brocaded in gold metallic floral changeant sequins in purple and green stripes, trimmed with matching wool pattern and black velvet, trimmed with French or Italian, about 1910 broadcloth, black satin, white point gold metallic lace and braid Gift of Martin M. Kamer, 1982 d'esprit, and violet silk Label: Jeanne Hallée, Paris 1982.302 English, about 1911 French, 1914 Gift of Irene Lewisohn, 1937 Purchase, Isabel Shults Gift, 1981 CI 37.46.1—ab 1981.328.8 Smoking Costume Dark brown vicuña trimmed with purple Promenade Suit Evening Coat satin, and purple and green silk cording Black and white wool in houndstooth check, Cream-colored velvet with griffin and foliate and Brandenburgs trimmed with black and gray brocade in design in shades of blue and green Worn by baron Fould-Springer abstract pattern, multicolored silk buttons, Label: Poiret, Paris French, about 1912 and black tassels French, about 1912 Lent anonymously Label: Marks and Copelin, Harrisburg, Pa. Purchase, Kyoto Costume Institute Gift, 1980 SL82.71.3a-c American, about 1913 1980.86 Purchase, Vincente Minetti Gift, 1976 Day Dress 1976.318.13ab Evening Coat Cream-colored wool broadcloth with insets Gold lamé ground with beige uncut velvet in of net, trimmed with ecru and pink silk in Hat floral pattern, trimmed with galloon frogs, floral design Black velvet trimmed with white egret feathers goid velvet, and sable French (?), about 1905 Label: Francois, New York Label: Doucet, Paris Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, American, about 1910 French, about 1912 Kent State Lent by The Chicago Historical Society Gift of Mrs. W. G. Constable, 1974 SL 82.110.12 SL 82.139.6 1974.242.1

Dressing Gown Morning Suit Opera Coat Red, blue, and white wool paisley trimmed Black wool; black and white checked wool Pink silk faille and black velvet, trimmed with with cuffs of quilted blue silk and red silk pants embroidery in glass beads, wool, and cord with tassels Label: Brooks Brothers, New York metallic threads with painted gold in American, late 19th century- American, about 1910 Oriental design in shades of blue, white, Lent by The Brooklyn Museum Gift of Katherine R Rogers, 1951 and green, with pink silk tassels SL 82.103.7 CI 51.108.2ab Label: Paquin, Paris French, 1912 Evening Gown Walking Stick Gift of Mrs. Edwin Stewart Wmeeler, 1956 Pink silk shot with gold, trimmed with gold Ebony and ivory X 56.2.1 metallic braid, pale blue satin, cream- English (?), about 1910 colored lace, and brown mink Lent by Bill Blass Evening Coat Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris SL 82.155 Gray satin trimmed with matching silk net, French, about 1910 embroidered with gold thread and Gift of Mrs. Howard Crosby Brokaw. I960 Afternoon Dress paillettes, gray chiffon, and self-fabric CI 60.42.6ab Chartreuse velvet and cream net Brandenburgs embroidered with white floral design, Label: Worth, Paris Afternoon Dress trimmed with Valenciennes lace, dark French, about 1912 Mustard-colored crepe chiffon trimmed with green satin cording, and tassels Gift of Cornelia Van Auken Chapin, 1953 matching satin, gold metallic tassels, and Label: Lucile, New York CI 53.60.2 ecru net English, 1913 French, about 1913 Gift of Mrs. E. Theophilus MacDermott, 1956 Evening Coat Gift of John Kimball, 1945 CI 56.48 Black and blue velvet with arabesque stencil CI 45.77.9 in gold and silver, trimmed with shirring Day Suit and black silk tassels Afternoon Dress Gray flannel; gray striped wool pants Designed by Maria Gallenga Navy-blue and white striped chiffon printed American, about 1913 Italian, about 1912 with floral medallions, over white satin Lent by The Brooklyn Museum Lent by Kyoto Costume Institute with cream-colored net, Valenciennes lace, SL82.103.9ab SL 82.73.2 and dark blue satin Label: Jeanne Hallée, Paris Day Suit Evening Coat French, about 1912 Black wool broadcloth trimmed with black Rose-colored silk taffeta trimmed with Gift of Howard Sturges, in memory of his topstitching, knotted black cord, and matching appliqué braid in arabesque mother, Mrs. Howard O. Sturges, 1949 matching belt pattern and twisted silk cord with fringe, CI 49.2.4 Label: Martial Lépée, Paris black velvet, and seal French, about 1911 Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris Afternoon Dress Gift of Miss Finn, 1944 French, about 1906 Pink georgette trimmed with white silk Cl46.10.2ab Gift of Mrs. Sidney W. Ffoulkes, 1938 charmeuse and black net CI 38.98.2 American, about 1914 Gift of Claire Lorraine Wilson, 1942 CI 42.82.2

[18] Afternoon Dress Anonymous Pale green wool broadcloth trimmed with pin Lady Cur zon, Vicereine of India. Wearing tucks, white crochet lace, silver metallic the "Peacock"Dress Small Maxim's Gallery lace, and gray net embroidered in light Photograph green foliate design English, 1903 Worn by Irma A Bloomingdale Lent by Lady -Alexandra Metcalfe Label: Doucet, Paris SL82.l4lc French, about 190" Gift of Irma A Bloomingdale, 19"6 Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) 19-6.390.8 Madame Errazuriz Oil on canvas Hat Italian, 1892 Black velvet trimmed with black ostrich Lent by Jerome Zipkin plumes and silver metallic appliqué SL 82.138 Label: Mrs. Lawrence, New York Evening Gown American, about 1912 Kees van Dongen (1877-1968) Blue velvet voided in floral and foliate Lent by The Chicago Historical Society Devant la Glace (Before a Mirror) pattern to black chiffon over golden-brown SL 82.13912 Oil on canvas satin, trimmed with gray net embroidered Dutch, about 1920 with crystals and rhinestones Evening Gown Lent anonymously Label: Jeanne Hallée, Paris Black and white beads in stripes trimmed SL 82.142 French, about 1914 with rhinestones and pearls Purchase, Isabel Shults Gift, 1981 Label: Poiret, Paris Henri Gervex (1852-1929) 1981.328.9 French, about 1912 l'n Mardi (A Tuesday) Lent by Minnesota Historical Society. St. Paul Oil on canvas Evening Dress SL 82.105 French, about 1910 Blue vervet voided to gold metallic ground, Lent by François Gerard Seligmann trimmed with blue chenille and net with Evening Gown SL 82.28.2 rhinestones Pink chiffon over matching satin with blue French, about 1913 net embroidered in blue bugle beads and Henri Gervex (1852-1929) Purchase. Isabel Shults Gift, 1981 trimmed with beaded floral corsage with Le Pré Cat elan 1981.328.6 tassels Oil on canvas Label: Jeanne Hallée, Paris French. 1909 Evening Gown French, about 1913 Lent by François Gerard Seligmann Black sequins in geometric pattern on purple Purchase, Isabel Shults Gift, 1981 SL 82.28.4 net over purple satin, trimmed with beige 1981.3283 silk, gold metallic lace, purple net, and Alphonse Marie Mucha (1860-1939) faceted purple glass Evening Gown Maude Adams as Joan of Arc Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris Mauve and ivoiy silk satin embroidered in Oil on canvas French, about 1912 pink, lavender, and green floral motif. Czechoslovakian, 1909 Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest. 1951 trimmed with pink satin Gift of A J. Kobler, 1920 a 51.97.4 Label: Poiret, Paris 20.33 French, 1912 Evening Dress Lent by Edward C. Blum Design Laboratory at Alphonse Marie Mucha (1860-1939) Beige cotton net embroidered with gold, the Fashion Institute of Technology. New Pair of Byzantine Heads silver, pale pink, and copper sequins, over York Colored lithographs lavender satin SL 82.14-.2 Czechoslovakian, 189" Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris Lent by Posters Please, Inc.. New York French, about 1911 Fancy-Dress Costume SL82.112.l6ab The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Cerise and silver gauze trimmed with Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe lavender and silver floral brocade and Reutlinger Studio Fowler, 1981 silver metallic fringe Lina Cai-ali er i 1981.380.2 Worn at Paul Poiret s party "1002d Night." Photograph June 24, 1911 French, about 1900 Evening Gown Label: Poiret. Paris Lent by Thomas A Emmet Pale gray satin damask patterned in gold French, 1911 SL 82.108.1 metallic in motif of Prince of Wales plumes Lent by Edward C. Blum Design Laboratory at with the crown, the thisde, the shamrock, the Fashion Institute of Technology-, New- Reutlinger Studio and the Devon rose, embellished with York Lina Cai-ali eri rhinestones and gold metallic embroidery SL 82.147.1 Photograph Worn at the coronation of George V French, about 1900 Label: Weeks. Paris Evening Gown Lent by Thomas A Emmet French, about 1911 Beige charmeuse with matching lace, SL 82.108.2 Gift of Mrs. C. Phillip Miller. 1957 embroidered in floral partem in a 57.17.3 multicolored glass beads, trimmed with red. pink, and orange silk flowers and gold metallic braid Label: Poiret. Paris French, about 1912 Lent by Kyoto Costume Institute SL 82.73.1

[19] Evening Gown Day Dress Dark emerald-green figured, ribbed silk and Pale blue silk charmeuse dotted with steel Poster Gallery blue chiffon, trimmed with dark blue and beads, with insets of point de Venise over green beading and silver metallic lace matching satin and chiffon Label: Jeanne Hallée, Paris American, about 1900 French, about 1914 Gift of Mrs. Hartley A Maconochie, 1941 Gift of Mrs. David J. Colton, 1964 CI41.l64ab CI 64.7.5 Opera Cape Formal Suit Beige floral-pattern voided velvet on white Black wool broadcloth trimmed with black satin ground, trimmed with pleated white satin chiffon and Alençon lace American, about 1914 Label: Worth, Paris Gift of Ruth Payne Burgess, 1950 French, about 1898 CI 50.42.5a-c Anonymous Gift, 1935 Lido: Excelsior Palace Hotel, Venice 35.134.19 The New York Herald, Paris Evening Gown Sunday, March 15, 1907 Pale lavender satin with matching chiffon FurJacket Lent by The International Herald Tribune over cream-colored satin, trimmed with White ermine trimmed with black-tipped SL 82.142.7 geometric pattern of silver metallic thread, ermine tails and black velvet ribbons crystals, white beads, and rhinestones, Worn by Mrs. Henry A Alker Mrs. Thau Admits She Received Money white silk flowers, and white Chantilly lace Label: Revillon Frères, Paris from Mr. White Label: Worth, Paris French, about 1902 The New York Herald, Paris French, about 1911 Gift of Hayward R. Alker, 1969 Thursday, February 21, 1907 Gift of Mrs. Robert S. Kilbourne, 1958 CI 69.9.1 Lent by The International Herald Tribune CI 58.67.6 SL 82.142.8

Day Dress Savoy Hotel, London Pale green silk faille trimmed with matching Wisteria Gallery The New York Herald, Paris pleated taffeta and Valenciennes lace Sunday, March 24, 1907 American, about 1895 Lent by The International Herald Tribune Gift of Mrs. C. Frederich, 1944 SL 82.142.1 CI 44.50. lab The Bucher-Durrer Hotels Day Dress The New York Herald, Paris Purple satin brocaded in paisley design, Sunday, March 24, 1907 trimmed with dark purple chenille, swags Lent by The International Herald Tribune of beads, and satin bows SL 82.142.5 Label: Bordeau Vemon, Paris French, about 1892 Bac (Ferdinand-Sigismond Bach Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer (1865-1953) [1859-1952]) Kent State Wall Panels and Murals from Wisteria Yvette Guilbert at La Scala SL82.110.17ab Dining Room Colored lithograph Oil on canvas, walnut French, 1893 Wedding Suit French, 1910-14 Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York Black wool trimmed with black satin and Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1966 SL 82.112.24 edged in black satin braid 66.244.1,3-6 American, about 1889 Adrien Barreré (1877-1931) Gift of Miss Alice Baldwin Beer, 1947 Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer (1865-1953) La Revue de Folies-Bergère CI 47.76. lOa-c Flambeaus (set of four) Colored lithograph Bronze, alabaster French, 1902 Opera Coat French, 1910-14 Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York White satin brocaded in silver metallic Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1966 SL 82.112.1 thread, trimmed with appliqués of black 66.244.22-25 Chantilly lace, ecru chenille, and pleated A. Calbet chiffon, and black and gold sequins The Bird Watchers French, about 1905 The New York Herald, Paris Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Maxime L Hermanos, Sunday, March 24, 1907 1962 Lent by The International Herald Tribune CI 62.44.2 SL 82.142.3

Opera Cape Leonetto Cappiello (1875-1942) White satin trimmed with pleated white Chocolat Klaus chiffon and embroidered with black and Colored lithograph silver beads and sequins in floral pattern French, 1903 Label: Alice Lemonnier, Paris Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York French, about 1900 SL 82.112.4 Lent by the Shannon Rodgers Collection, Kent State SL 82.110.29

[20] Leonetto Cappiello (1875-1942) H. Causón Alphonse Marie Mucha (1860-1939) Hélène Chauvin Toilettes de Gala pour la Cour de Grèce G is mond a Colored lithograph (Gala Dresses for the Court of Greece ) Colored lithograph French, 1900 The New York Herald. Paris Czechoslovakian, 1894 Lent by Park South Gallen- at Carnegie Hall, Fashion Supplement. Sunday, February 10, Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York New York 1907 SL 82.112.15 SL 82.112.5 Lent by The International Herald Tribune SL 82.142.4a Manuel Orazi (1860-1934) Leonetto Cappiello (1875-1942) La Maison Moderne ( The Modern House ) Corset le Furet Abel Faivre (1867-1945) Colored lithograph Colored lithograph Automobile Club de France French, 1900 French, 1901 Colored lithograph Lent by Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall. Lent by Posters Please, Inc.. New York French, 1904 New York SL 82.1123 Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York SL 82.112.1" SL82.112.il Leonetto Cappiello (1875-1942) Pal (Jean de Paléologue [1860-1942]) Folies -Bergère Georges de Feure (1868-1928) Sapho Colored lithograph Paris-Almanach Colored lithograph French. 1900 Colored lithograph French, 189" Lent by Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall. French. 1894 Lent by Posters Please, Inc.. New York New York Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York SL 82.112.18 SL 82.112.2 SL 82.112.12 Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Georges de Feure (1868-1928) (1859-1924) Olympia La Dépèclx ( The Telegram ) Motocycles Comiot Colored lithograph Colored lithograph Colored lithograph French. 1892 French, about 1898 French, 1899 Lent by Posters Please. Inc.. New York Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York Lent by Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall, SL 82.112.9 SL 82.112.26 New York SL 82.112.20 Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Harrison Fisher (1877-1934) Palais de Glace Emerging from Lenten Gloom Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen Colored lithograph The New York Herald, Paris (1859-1924) French. 1894 Sunday, March 24. 1907 La Rue ( The Street) Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York Lent by The International Herald Tribune Colored lithograph SL 82.112.10 SL 82.142.6 French, 1896 Lent by Posters Please. Inc.. New York Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Arthur Jule Goodman SL 82.112.19 Quinquina Dubonnet Buffalo Bill's Wild West: The Visit of Their Colored lithograph Majesties Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) French, 1896 Colored lithograph Jane Avril Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York English, 1903 Colored lithograph SL 82.112.6 Lent by Posters Please. Inc.. New York French, 1899 SL 82.112.13 Lent by Robert Altman Jules Chéret (1836-1932) SL 82.112.22 Théâtre de l'Opéra Jules-Alexandre Grün (1868-1934) Colored lithograph Concert de la Pépinière Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) French, 189" Colored lithograph La Revue Blanche Lent by Posters Please, Inc., New York French, 1902 Colored lithograph SL 82.112.8 Lent by Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall, French, 1895 New York Lent by Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall, Jules Chéret (1836-1932) SL82.112.l4 New York Vin Mariani SL 82.112.23 Colored lithograph F. Neydhart French, 1894 The Approach of Spring Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) Lent by Posters Please, Inc.. New York The Neu- York Herald. Paris Moulin Rouge SL 82.112.7 Sunday, March 24, 190" Colored lithograph Lent by The International Herald Tribune French, 1891 H. Causón SL 82.142.2 Lent by Posters Please, Inc.. New York Les Elégances sur la Côte d'Azur {Fashions SL 82.112.21 on the Ritiera) Alphonse Marie Mucha (1860-1939) The New York Herald, Paris Cycles Perfecta Fashion Supplement, Sunday. January 13,190" Colored lithograph Lent by The International Herald Tribune Czechoslovakian, 189" SL 82.142.46 Lent by Posters Please. Inc.. New York SL 82.112.25

[21] Designers Shown in La Belle Epoque Acknowledgments

French Designers British Designers We are deeply grateful to Pierre Cardin for his generosity in making the Agnès Davies and Son exhibition possible; to André Oliver and Ghislaine de Polignac for their Beer Knight and Lee continuing help and encouragement; and to Pierre Pothier for his Callot Soeurs Libert}- and Co. invaluable assistance in the design of the exhibition. Deloire Lucile Jacques Doucet Sandon and Co. Music compiled and arranged by Stephen Paley Henriette Favre Scent: "l'Heure Bleue" by Guerlain Frances Italian Designers Painted backdrops by Charles Broderson Jeanne Hallée Bellom Sorelle Floral wallpaper by Clarence House Louise Kormann Fortuny Jewelry by Kenneth J. Lane René Lalique Maria Gallenga Men's gloves donated by Saks Fifth Avenue Alice Lemonnier Stockings by Capezio, Laura Biagiotti, Fogal, and Diane Von Furstenberg Martial Lépée American Designers Veiling donated by Bergdorf Goodman Paquin Brooks Brothers Corsets for mannequins made by Paul Rheinhardt and his students Auguste Petit AndrewJ. Connick at the University of Texas, Austin Emile Pingat Cregar and Rienzl Male mannequins lent by Hindsgaul Paul Poiret Mme O. Donovan "Alice in Wonderland" wig by Leonard of London Redfem W. Dunstan Hair for "Lady Curzon" by Mickey Mikawa of Leonard of London Revillon Frères Francois Dog collars by Hermes A Rhode Mrs. Lawrence Rouff F. X. Ledoux Bordeau Vernon Lingerie Françoise Virot Frederick Loeser Weeks Marks and Copelin Charles Frederick Worth A H. Metzner Jean-Philippe Worth Marie Reeves Yantorny Shayne A. Shuman and Co. Simpson A G Spalding and Brothers Tappe Peter Thompson Van Sickle and Conly

[22] Lenders to the Exhibition Staff of the Costume Institute

Robert Alunan Stella Blum, Curator Bill Blass Diana Vreeland, Special Consultant The Brooklyn Museum K. Gordon Stone, Associate Museum Librarian Castle Howard, York Paul M. Ettesvold, Assistant Curator Eric Chauvet Jean R. Druesedow, Assistant Curator Chicago Historical Society Judith Jerde, Assistant Restorer Cini Foundation, Venice Lillian A Dickler, Senior Administrative Assistant Edward C. Blum Design Laboratory at the Fashion Institute Elaine F. Shaub, Assistant to the Consultant of Technology. New York Ina Zimbardo, Senior Housekeeper Thomas A Emmet Dominick Tallarico, Principal Department Technician Vincent Fourcade Mavis Dalton, Associate Curator, part-time Kyoto Costume Institute Lach' Alexandra Metcalfe Many thanks to the staff members of the following departments for their Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul advice and assistance in the mounting of this exhibition: Moss Brothers. London Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris European Paintings Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris Twentieth Century Art Musée du Petit Palais, Paris European Sculpture and Decorative Arts Park South Gallen at Carnegie Hall, New York Prints and Photographs Posters Please, Inc., New York Registrar Shannon Rodgers Collection, Kent State Objects Consenation François Gerard Seligmann Paper Conservation Dona and Bernard C. Solomon Public Information Umberto Tirelli Photograph Studio Madame Tussaud's, London Jerome Zipkin Private Collection, New York Exhibition Staff

Exhibition conceived and organized by Diana Vreeland Assistant to Mrs. Vreeland: Stephen Jamail Exhibition Assistants: Katell le Bourhis, Richard DeGussi-Bogutski, Sarah Richardson Exhibition Design: Jeffrey Daly, David Haney, Paul Hunter Lighting: William L Riegel Installation Assistants: June Bove, Stephen de Pietri

[23] Volunteers for Restoration Volunteers for the Installation

Ethel Altschul Francis Spar Kirk Allan Adair Pauline C. Anderson Sylvia Spitzer Margaret Avery Penelope Bareau Kuniko Steel Francesca Bianco Mary Barker Lily Tobler Nadine Bilgore Carolyn Blish Evelyn Voice Marine le Bourhis Rose-Marie Brequet Florence Weismann Judy Brindisi Jean Brogan Ann Wiss Ellen Bumie Lucy Buhler Ester Zisser Russell Bush Barbara Chafkin Lesley Cowen Miriam Chan Anne Dollberg Abigail Chapman Eugenia Eschman Anita Child Douglas Ferguson Lucinda Childs NLirie Figliolia Helen Clark Frances Fore .Antoinette Cusanomo Virginia Fox Clothilde Daniel Elizabeth Goldrick Emily Derenberg Ana Herrera Helen DiBlasio Flora Husband Millicent Dworkin Isabel Isqueda Ruth Ehrlich Joel Kaye Virginia Ferguson Harriet Keramidas Barbara Finch Alida Kilburn Jane Fiore Andrew Kohier Ruth Kohier Judith Buford Flaxman Lisa Kung Marilyn Francis David Leigh Antonia Govani Georgette Levy Ellen D. Granick Gabriella Mariotti Marie Hagen Emmanuel Michaux Madelyn Brown Harris Ann Miller Nkirgot Hartman Madge Miller Norma Piche Hensler Deborah Polonoff Svea Eleanor Holborow Nancy Präger-Benett Miong-Hee-Hong Lucy Richards Susan Johnston Jocelyn Schwartzman Giza Kent C. J. Scott Ilse Kessler Helen Semler Joel Kunath Ranch- Sheer Ann Langford-Hamber Cynthia Sirko Georgette Levy Marie-Louise Slocum Charlotte Liebow Sophia Tzelepis Edna Lonstein Linda Velez Evelyn Marron Robert Vitale Lee Messmore Tern Wendell Jane D. Miller Patricia Whetzel Ann Nielson Phyllis Wickham Helen S. Olsen Marielle Worth Eleanor Powell Peter Wrigley Rosalind Rappaport Laura Reibum Ann Robbins Lillian Rouse Sarah Rowe Man Russoniello Bell Sabin Jane Sewall Barbara Shock Daisy Singer

[24]

ISBN 0-8"099-342-9