Text and photos by Joost-Jan Waanders

First official Dutch Dive Expedition to Bikini Atoll, 2-20 May 2008 — Bikini Atoll In 1996, I heard for the first time Expedition to the wrecks of Operation Crossroads about the unique possibility to dive on WWII shipwrecks at Bikini Atoll, one of the main atolls of the Marshall Islands, located in the tri- angle between the United States, Japan and Australia. This boy’s dream, to dive these wrecks, came through after an intensive planning and preparation phase of 2.5 years as the Technical Explorers Team (four divers, initial- ly we were five) finally arrived at Bikini on 7 May 2008. The prepara- tion period was also like a dream, which became more and more real as time passed, including all the excitement counting down to the ultimate moment of diving on the wrecks at Bikini Atoll. The highlight of the week at Bikini, one of the most beautiful dive desti- nations on Earth, ���������������were the spec- tacular deep dives on the sunken WWII war fleet wrecks, which went down as a result of the nuclear test bombings during “Operation Crossroads”.

The Mission Today, the Bikini Atoll stands known as one of the most beautiful dive destinations on the planet. But underlying this great para- dise is a dark side of history that has cost many lives of the original people living here, including many men suffering of thy- roid cancer. The Technical Explorers Team went as one of the very first Dutch divers to this atoll to make a documentary, write an THIS PAGE: Scenes from the nuclear wrecks of Bikini Atoll article and create a presentation for the lecture circuit to tell the Bikinian story and

23 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll the Bikini Atoll in the Marshall ber of auxiliary and amphibi- Islands. The purpose was to ous vessels. Between 1946 and check the radio active effects 1958, a total of 67 nuclear tests on test animals and blast effects were performed at the atoll, against the surface ships in the which became heavily infect- target array. ed with radioactive radiation. the second shot, “Baker” was Nowadays, the nuclear wrecks detonated beneath the surface of the Bikini Atoll are quiet wit- of the lagoon in the centre of nesses of the disaster that hap- the target ship array. This test pened here 63 years ago. was designed to determine the hull damage caused by the Just in time hydraulic effect of the under- Due to aircraft problems with water nuclear detonation. A Air Marshall Islands (AMI) Airliner fleet of more than 90 vessels Company, there were no divers was assembled in Bikini Lagoon for the last nine months before as a target. This target fleet the Dutch expedition team consisted of older U.S. capital arrived at Bikini. However, after ships, three captured German 13 great but challenging years and Japanese ships, surplus as one of the premier wreck div- U.S. cruisers, destroyers and ing tourism sites in the Pacific, submarines, and a large num- Bikini Atoll was closed to tourists

to help promote tourism from against naval vessels. They Europe to this particular area also wanted to study different of the Pacific. techniques to protect vessels against a nuclear attack and History possibly change the design Prior to July 1946, only three of future naval ships. On 10 atomic bombs were detonat- January 1946, a presidential ed by the United States. Bomb order (by President Truman) number one detonated in created Task Force ONE, with the New Mexico Desert in the an assigned mission, to dis- “Trinity Test” on 16 July 1945. cover the answers to these The second exploded over questions. Hiroshima on 5 August 1945, the commander of which was the first military use “Operation Crossroads” was of atomic power. Four days Vice Admiral W. H. P. Blandy later, on August 9, the third who was responsible for flashed high over Nagasaki. 200 ships, 40,000 men and This convinced the Japanese 150 aircraft. He would ulti- to surrender five days later mately detonate two atomic on 14 August 1945. Thus, the bombs against a target fleet first three atomic detonations that consisted of obsolete took place in a one month American vessels and cap- period, and two of them were tured ships from Germany fired in anger and, thus, no and Japan that the US data was collected regarding received at the conclusion of their performances. WWII. by early 1946, the scientific the first detonation, called community was curious about “Able” was dropped from a THIS PAGE: Divers explore the wrecks. ABOVE: Divers descending at stern the effects of nuclear bombs B-25 over the target fleet in

24 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll ly made it to Bikini. After our luggage was unloaded, we were shipped directly from the landing strip to our accommodation by boat. The water was crystal clear; the white sand beach, with its waving palm trees, was breath-taking, and this paradise was completed by a blue sky with beautiful white clouds. If paradise on Earth exists, we found it here. From our verandah, we looked over the lagoon where, at a distance of three miles from the coast line, the remains of the sunken military fleet is still witness- ing history. It is really unbelievable that after exactly 63 years after Operation Crossroads, and a total of 67 nuclear explosions later, we are now able to safe- ly walk on the beaches. The local radia- tion is even less than that of an average large town. In fact, we were exposed to more radiation during all our flights than during as of 11 June 2008. A long trip our stay on Bikini Atoll. That is a strange this decision had to be made due to The initial planning for March 2008 had feeling considering that there were so the very bad serviceability of the local to be postponed with seven weeks due many nuclear explosions here. There is still airliner, Air Marshalls, and the rapid rise in to the unavailability of a serviceable some remaining radiation which can be the world price of fuel, which has made aircraft flying between the capital city found at deeper level under the surface. all of the operating expenses just skyrock- of the Marshall Islands, Majuro and the However, the raised concentration of et beyond their means. Bikini Atoll. The Dutch Technical Explores cesium 137 is still absorbed by the roots of In August of this year, the local govern- team arrived after a 36-hour journey, via palm trees and consequently coconuts ment, during the annual budget meet- Honolulu, Hawaii, on Majuro. and coconut crabs are still not consum- ing, will decide whether or not they can Twelve hours before our departure able. afford to open Bikini Atoll in 2009. from the Netherlands, we received the At this point in time, given these chal- message that the flight between Majuro Dive briefing lenges, their trust fund is facing big deficits and Bikini was questionable as the only Our dive programme includes two dives because of the recent poor performance plane of Air Marshall Islands (AMI) flying to a day—getting up at 06.30 hrs, breakfast of the US stock markets and a recession- Bikini had broken down again. During our at 07.00 hrs, and the dive briefing at 08.00 bound US economy; the prospect of crossing from Hawaii to Majuro, we were hrs. Our head divemaster, Jim Akroyd, opening next year appears very doubt- informed that the necessary spare parts explained the morning dive, the details ful. This news has been very hard on the had been shipped with our flight and that and the extremities of the wreck such as Bikinian leaders and their people as all of technician would work all night to get the her position, what’s to be seen, her history the proceeds from the operation have plane repaired and serviceable for the and details of the dive to be performed. gone toward purchasing food for their final trip to Bikini, the next day. After the briefing, all divers were com- communities on Kili Island, Ejit Island and We were “relieved” that the repair was muted by truck to the pier, one kilome- Majuro Atoll. successful and that the technician would tre away from the accommodations, but most importantly, this dive destina- accompany us to Bikini Atoll, as there was to embark on the small boat. Upon our tion should be available for everybody no time available for a test flight. arrival, the staff of the Bikinian Atoll Divers and should stay open in the future. Bikini had already stored away the double air Atoll divers are looking for business pro- In the middle of Eden tanks on the boat, so we only needed to posals as to how they might solve their Upon arrival to Bikini Atoll, we were take our personal equipment, like photo Rebreather diver inspects torpedos problems, please email [email protected]. speechless and excited that we had final- and film cameras as well as our water

25 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll bottles, which provided us with many litres of drinking water. Our dive gear stayed on board, but if it needed to be rinsed, one could always can wash it with drink- ing water in a container on the pier. At 08.30 hrs, the boat departed and everyone had time to prepare their equipment during the ride to the dive location. When the first group of divers got into the sea, the decompression sta- tion was launched as a safety precau- tion. Safety first. In regards to the deep dives with long decompression stops, no concessions are made in safety standards, especially since there is no decompression chamber on the island. All wrecks are located at a distance of 15 to 20 minutes by boat from the pier. All diving depths vary between 155 and 180 feet (45 and 57 meters). on day two, dives were planned to approximately the same depth, including

All dives were executed with double 12-litre tanks provided with a manifold, and compressed air up to 250 bars. At the end of each dive, we surfaced with approximately 150 bar left in the tanks The crew took very good care of us, bringing the double sets back on board and securing them at one’s given place in the boat. After all the divers were back on board, the group left the dive site to return directly to the pier to get rest and have lunch. It was necessary to drink lots of water to compensate for dehydration as a consequence of the high outside tem- a decompression stop between 60 and this method, the decompression times peratures and the deep dives. 90 minutes. This means that the amount decrease by more than half of the usual the next briefing was at 14.00 hrs when of nitrogen accumulating in your blood is time. the same procedure started again: to the extreme. To get rid of the nitrogen a two- Using our Suunto D6 computers, we pier, the dive and return at 16.30 hrs. At minute deco safety stop at 24 meters was made a gas switch and immediately 19.00 hrs, supper was served. Afterwards, scheduled. (Sometimes an extra deco noticed a decline of the long decom- everybody went to bed around 21.30 hrs. stop of two minutes at 12 meters was pression times. For safety reasons, the During the night, I dreamed that we were added for safety reasons). 1/3 rule still leads, as it could be possible attacked by a group of sharks during our having arrived at the deco station, an for any reason that the buoy could dis- deco stop with an hour decompression to 80 percent oxygen deco gas was deliv- appear and that oxygen would not be go. Lucky enough I woke up. It was only a ered directly from the boat. With the available anymore. It is a standing rule dream. However, I was again wary of the inhalation of this gas mixture, the body that divers should be able to decompress real existing dangers of attacking sharks. Penetration dives at USS Saratoga reveal everyday decompresses much faster than normal with the available remaining air from their being alert and constantly looking artifacts (above) and a dentistry unit (top right) air, as it contains less nitrogen. Following bottles. around are the critical to survival at the

26 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll deco station under these circum- discovered some gray sharks cir- Diving UIJMS Nagato leaking from the hull. He turned stances. cling around us. We had never The Nagato lies up side down on a glass bottle with oil, and the seen so many big sharks before; the bottom of the lagoon. We bunker oil went up to the surface. USS Saratoga but they are tiny compared to the needed more than one dive to During all our dives we noticed oil After our intensive dive training at huge dimensions of the ship. For a discover her. When we reached still leaking from the wrecks. At our home, we wanted to get in the second, I imagine how the pilots the afterdeck, we discover the pre-briefing, we were notified to water as soon as possible for our felt during their landings on to huge propellers. As we swam by, avoid certain areas of the ship, as first dive on the USS Saratoga. the ship, as we went down along we noticed the enormous dimen- aircraft fuel was still leaking. These During our in-briefing, we were a similar glide path. There was sions compared to the tiny divers areas could be recognised by a told that at the moment of the excitement all over, as the visibility who looked like puppets. blurred mist cloud escaping from explosion, she was at “battle sta- was great. Jim showed us a spot where oil is the hull. tions” and that all equipment is still After we visited the flight deck on board. and the hangers with the remains the Saratoga is one of the nicest of aircrafts, we continued to the wrecks, and for a long time, the port side of the ship along small only diveable aircraft carrier in the anti aircraft guns, doors and open- world. Dives on the ship are less ings to the inside of the carrier. deep at Bikini. She stands straight Despite our enthusiasm, we had to up on the sea bottom at depth of go up for a deco stop of 30 min- 190 feet. utes before we could get back on Going down along the buoy board the dive boat. We were all line, we could distinguish clearly convinced that this was one of the the bridge and the large flight greatest wrecks to dive. deck. On our way down, we also

swimming through these the wrecks contain a lot of histo- clouds will cause heavy skin ry, and one can still find all kinds irritations. Our Japanese dive of remains of the past from the colleagues had obviously not moment the ships went down. understood this warning as Imagine that at the moment they got back on board with of the explosion, the ships were heavy irritated red faces. Also anchored in the lagoon at bat- our diving suits and wings were tle stations with all the equip- contaminated with an oily film, ment on board, including gre- which was difficult to remove. nades, sharp ammunitions and China porcelain. Heavy dives penetrating the interior of the After a while, the deep dives wrecks, one must continuously were taking lots of energy. be alert, as there is still oil and One’s body gets more and aircraft fuel left in the hull. At more tired after two deep deco the end of our week, we were THIS PAGE: Lots of guns and test build-ups dives a day. given an exceptional oppor- each dive was very exiting. All tunity by being allowed to do

27 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll

THIS PAGE: Planes inside the USS Saratoga are still at their places

two penetration dives into the and we descended via Saratoga. the first elevator shaft beside the bridge, four USS Saratoga decks lower. We planned penatration dives to swim inside the decks Having dived on many wrecks and galleries to finally and locations in the world, I end up at the Captain’s never experienced such excit- hut. Swimming through ing and beautiful dives on com- the gangways, it was of pressed air. utmost importance not the Saratoga was located to whirl up the sediment. at the shortest distance from Regrettably, our air bub- the nuclear test explosion bles reached the ceiling point. Consequently, the ship and created dust in the was heavily damaged by the water, causing degraded blast and heat of the explo- visibility. sion. Also time had degraded Jim was leading us, and her enormously. The rear deck we followed him through the a staircase towards the lower to take very great care in order was blown away and has now many galleries. The passages decks. not to get entangled. Finally, almost totally collapsed. The were so narrow that our dive here, we found a lot of things. we ended up in the captain’s front side of the Sara—as she sets touched the doorways. Light bulbs were still in their sock- cabin, where we saw teacups, also is called—was still intact. After we penetrated the wreck ets in the ceiling. Cables were riffles and other interesting the four of us entered her, for a while, we decended along hanging around which we had remains of the past. Despite

28 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED HIJMS Nagato, the travel Japanese admiral ship Bikini Atoll looked back for a moment and felt more fear than a second ago, as the big shark was swimming just one meter away from my position. Using my camera, I tried to defend myself, but just at that moment, the shark turned away, leaving me to get my respira- tion back to normal. Under water, we tried to relax and were eventually able to laugh about the terrify- ing event that just happened. However, the stress came back as we arrived at the decompression station where we had to stop for an hour, and where we saw the same tiger shark circling again around our position. We were relieved and lucky that the shark

decided that it only wanted to our last dive on the bow of the the fact that we were eager to ence of this wreck continues to circle around us, sometimes at Saratoga. She looks gigantic collect souvenirs, we didn’t take feel like a fairytale and the unique very short distances, leaving us if you stand in front of her on anything, so as to leave the place experience was a once in a life behind to ponder an unforgetta- the bottom of the lagoon. To untouched for other divers to enjoy time event. ble experience. be prepared for the flight back these unique historical scenes in to Majuro on Wednesday, we the future. Moreover, penalties are Sharks Return to civilization made an extra long decompres- very high if you take any souvenirs. On each dive in the waters around On Tuesday morning we made sion stop, on 80 percent oxygen, never in my life have I enjoyed Bikini, we met two or three sharks. penetration dives like those on the White tip and black tip reef sharks, Saratoga. All of the team were gray sharks, and once, a tiger convinced that these two penetra- shark. tion dives were the most exciting During the ascent from the deck experiences of the week at Bikini. of the USS Saratoga, a tiger shark however, for safety reasons Jim came across our paths; my dive hesitates to take costumers into the buddy, Peter, tried to attract my Sara due to the many existing dan- attention by signalling with his hand gers, such as collapsing walls and above his head that there was ceilings and bad visibility. Without something to be noticed. He also proper training and sufficient wreck tried to yell underwater, but I didn’t dive experience, these penetra- understand what he said. However, tions can become very dangerous. I finally understood that there Regrettably, the whirled up dust was a shark swimming around us, prohibited us from taking any film which had to be bigger than nor- or photos of our exciting dives. But, mal. Well, as I turned around and we really did see a lot of interesting looked down in the direction Peter things during our three dives on the pointed, I saw a big tiger shark Saratoga. We saw grenades, guns, coming strait towards me. aircraft, anti aircraft machinery, I froze immediately and decided rifles, porcelain, a diving helmet to sprint to the door entrance of and even a trumpet. The experi- the bridge. When I got there, I

29 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll 15 minutes longer than was indi- For the rest of the day, we cated by our computers. took our rest and prepared Back ashore, we carefully ourselves for our flight back to rinsed our diving gear and put the Netherlands the next day. it in the sun to dry. In the after- However, we were informed noon, we were invited to discov- that our departure had to be er the island where Gen Akroyd postponed with one day due explained to us the local history to a flat tire on the aircraft; the including legends and old stories team had now to hub via five about the former inhabitants. other atolls, including a stop to The island and its original pick up a dead body at the inhabitants know many secrets, island of Wotje. The corpse, which are very well described wrapped in linen, had been by Jack Niedenthal, in his book waiting for transportation for a For the Good of Mankind. couple of days and upon pick The story about their reef-god up was put on top of our diving “Worejabato”������������������������������ is one of the leg- bags; you can imagine how we ends that impressed me. This felt about that. reef god appears as a giant the consequences of this reef shark swimming around in delay was that we missed our the waters of the Bikini lagoon connecting flights. After all the to protect the inhabitants of expedition needed in total 14 Bikini against bad influences. The flights to arrive at Bikini and to legend says that this shark swims get back to Schiphol airport. around a small reef at 15 meters What an adventure, the whole distance from our accommo- trip was an expedition on its self dation. That is presumably the but worth all the efforts! reason why we are not able to snorkel in the lagoon after 17.00 Afterthoughts hrs as we were told. An inci- Bikini is world’s unique wreck div- dent that may prove this story ing paradise, a dream of every might be true was experienced wreck and technical diver. by Peter as he was snorkelling Personally, I would like to visit by himself one day and sud- it again as soon as possible, as denly met sharks that came very there is no place in the world to close. For obvious reasons, Peter be found where on a small area decided to leave the water so many wrecks are resting at a instantaneously. diveable depth, still witnessing recent history of man- kind development. ■

The author, Joost-Jan Waanders, was the ini- tiator and expedition leader of this expedition. For more information, visit: Technicalexplorers.com Bikini2008.technicalex- plorers.com THIS PAGE: The best wreck dive location on Earth

30 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: USS Saratoga CV3 USS Arkansas BB-33 Bikini Atoll HIJMS Nagato

‘3’ was engulfed by the reaching waters; boilers, driving four sets the tip of her mast was the last bit of Sara of Kampon turbines seen by man,” —unless, of course, you developing 82,300 shaft are a diver fortunate enough to be visit- horsepower (shp) for ing Bikini Atoll! The USS Saratoga is the a speed of 25 knots. largest dive-able vessel in the world, and Her fuel bunkerage the only aircraft carrier available for div- was now 5,650 tons of ing at 880 feet long. oil, giving her a radius of 8,650 nautical miles HIJMS Nagato at 16 knots. Her new The Japanese Flagship to the Japanese dimensions were 725’ Navy, she was Admiral Isoroku 9” long at the water- Yamamoto’s floating fortress during line, 113’ 6” beam, 32’ Japan’s World War II attack on Pearl 2” draught. Her nor- usfg Harbor and was a treasure to the mal displacement was Japanese forces. The 32,720 ton battle- 39,130 tons, 42,850 tons The wrecks War II. She received seven battle stars. ship is at rest upside down in 170 feet of at full load. She car- We literally touched the face of history eight hours after the waves created water; her bridge is accessible at 150 ried a crew of 1,368. diving these nuclear wrecks. The history by the atomic Baker blast rolled over feet, the hull and monstrous props at 110 In June 1944, she was of these amazing wrecks in the Bikini her, New York Times correspondent feet. The Nagato was built by Kure Naval known to be fitted with lagoon is vast and contains the most Hanson W. Baldwin wrote this epitaph Dockyard, launched on 9 November radar. By October 1944, usfg important collection of WWII shipwrecks as he watched the Saratoga sink slowly 1919, and completed on 25 November her armament con- in the world. In fact, the first and longtime beneath Bikini’s lagoon: “There were 1920. She was reconstructed in 1934-1936 sisted of 8 x 16”/45, 18 43,581 tons full load, and as a result, her only diveable aircraft carrier lies on the many who had served her in the observ- with torpedo bulges, increased elevation x 5.5”/50 [guns that were later removed], maximum speed was 24.98 knots. By the bottom of the Bikini lagoon. During our ing fleet, and they fought with her for main armament, aircraft crane, etc. 8 x 5”/40, and 98 x 25mm AA guns. Her end of the war, she had had her main week at Bikini, we did 12 dives on seven through the long hot hours as the sun After this refit, Nagato had ten Kampon displacement had by now increased to mast and funnel removed for camou- of these wrecks. In fact, there are even mounted. Outside the reef ... the observ- flage purposes, as she was holed up in more wrecks that are mentioned below. ing ships cruised, while the Sara slowly Sagami Bay near Yokosuka. Fuel and The U.S. aircraft carrier Saratoga (the died. There were scores who wanted to ammunition loads during both ABLE and only diveable carrier in the world that has save her-and perhaps she might have BAKER tests were, respectively, 15 per- been sunk by an atomic bomb) and the been saved, had there been a crew cent and 10 percent of capacity. At 708 HIJMS Nagato, flagship of the Japanese aboard. But she died a lonely death, feet long, she is upside down in the water Navy, are the highlights of this site. with no man upon the decks once team- and an incredible dive with her four mas- ing with life, with pumps idle and boilers sive screws appearing like an underwater USS Saratoga CV3 dead. From three o’clock on, she sank Stonehenge. Commissioned in 1927, it is an American fast, her buoyancy gone, as the fleet aircraft carrier 880 feet in length and kept the death watch for a ‘fighting USS Arkansas BB-33 weighs 39,000 tons; it rests in Bikini’s lady.’ The Sara settled—the air soughing A 29,000-ton American battleship that lagoon at a depth of 190 feet. Her from her compartments like the breath survived two world wars had a fuel bridge is easily accessible at 40 feet, her from exhausted lungs. At 3:45 p.m., the capacity of 37,779 barrels of fuel oil, deck at 90 feet, and the hanger for the starboard aft corner of her flight deck 119 barrels of diesel oil, and 4,000 gal- Helldivers at 125 feet. These Helldivers was awash; then the loud speakers lons of gasoline. The Arkansas took part and bombs are still on display complete blared: ‘The water is up to her island in the Presidential Naval Review in the with all dials and controls. Saratoga had now; the bow is high in the air.’ She died Hudson River, on 14 October 1912 and a fuel capacity of 63,200 barrels of fuel like a queen—proudly. The bow slowly then carried President William H. Taft to oil, 249 barrels of diesel oil, and 132,264 reared high; the stern sank deep, and, the Panama Canal Zone for an inspec- gallons of gasoline. Fuel and ammunition as if striving for immortality, the Sara lifted tion of the unfinished canal. On 22 April loads during test BAKER were 10 percent her white numeral ‘3’ high into the sun 1914, she assisted in the occupation of of capacity and 67 percent capacity before her bow slipped slowly under. Her Veracruz, Mexico. In December of 1918, respectively. She was reported sunk by last minutes were slow and tortured; she she formed part of the escort carrying the Japanese seven times during World fought and would not sink, but slowly the uS LIBRARY OF CONGRESS President Woodrow Wilson to France. In

31 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The USS Lamson DD-367 Bikini Atoll

the west coast from Hawaii Japanese vessels totaling 7,575 tons. USS Anderson DD-411 and Japan and shorter pas- Her first patrol was out of Pearl Harbor in An American destroyer that received sages among South Pacific November of 1943. She later patrolled ten battle stars during World War II, islands. She sits upright on from Majuro to Midway and was part she served as a carrier screen in the the bottom and is guarded of Operation Galvanic during the inva- Coral Sea, Midway, the Solomons, by a magnificent school sions of Tarawa and the Gilbert Islands. Guadalcanal and Tarawa. Always on of skip jacks; and there is Working off Formosa, she ran in a wolf- the frontlines, she was with the Lexington almost always a shark sitting pack known as the “Mickey Finns” that CV-2 and the Yorktown CV-5 aircraft on this ship. The ABLE blast sunk 41,000 tons worth of Japanese carriers when they were sunk in battle split her open, so she makes vessels toward the end of the war. She by the Japanese. She was also with the for a sensational penetration received five battle stars and was sunk USS Wasp and the USS Hornet when they dive. Fuel and ammunition by BAKER. She now appears perfectly were sunk in WWII. In 1943, in Wotje Atoll loads during test ABLE were upright as if ready to drive away on the in the Marshall Islands, she got hit with a 95 percent of capacity. The bottom of Bikini’s lagoon. Eric Hanauer 155mm shell that killed the captain and Carlisle was sunk by the ABLE of Discover Diving commented, “The five officers and wounded another 18 blast. She is 426 feet long. shadowy silhouette of Apogon’s conning men. She carried 2929 barrels of fuel oil tower, completely enveloped by glassy and 168 barrels of diesel oil and was at USS Lamson DD-367 sweepers, is one of the most beautiful 95 percent of capacity of both fuel and The American destroyer sights I’ve ever seen underwater.” She is ordnance when she was sunk by ABLE Lamson received five battle 312 feet long. and is now at rest on her side in Bikini’s stars for service during World lagoon. 348 feet long. ■

NHHC War II. She was used to search for Amelia Earhart World War II, the Arkansas escorted con- down in Bikini’s lagoon in 170 feet of in 1937 in the Marshall and voys across the Atlantic. She remained water. She received four battle stars for Gilbert Islands. She was deployed from in European waters for the invasion of her service in World War II and was sunk Pearl Harbor on 7 December 1941, in the Normandy where she performed yeo- by BAKER. unsuccessful search for the Japanese man service at Omaha Beach, the bom- Task Force that bombed Pearl Harbor bardment of Cherbourg and the invasion USS Carlisle AA-69 and later served throughout the Pacific of southern France. She then moved to A merchant craft named after a county until the end of the war. Her fuel capac- the Pacific to participate in action at Iwo in Kentucky, she had fuel capacity of ity was 3,600 barrels, her diesel oil capac- Jima and Okinawa. At 562 feet long, the 9,695 barrels of fuel oil and 375 barrels ity was 110 barrels, and she was at 50 Arkansas rests almost completely upside of diesel oil. She made three voyages to percent capacity for both fuels and ordi- nance when she was sunk by ABLE. Her hull provides a great example of the power of a nuclear explosion as it is horribly twisted and dam- aged. At 341 feet long, she is a Bikini divemaster favorite. USS Apogon SS-308 An American submarine with normal fuel capacity of 54,000 gallons, and an emergency load of 116,000 gallons. She made eight war patrols sinking three

LEFT: The USS Apolgon SS-308 RIGHT: The USS Anderson DD-411 usfg usfg

32 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A 21-kiloton underwater nuclear weap- ons effects test, known as Operation Crossroads (Event Baker), conducted at Bikini Atoll 1946. Image courtesy of US Defense Threat Reduction Agency Aftermath — at the nuclear playground

Text by Arnold Weisz

During the period between 1945 In Bikini on 24 July 1946, an enor- and 1958, a total of 67 nuclear mous water column beneath a mushroom cloud left 500,000 tons tests were conducted on Bikini of radioactive mud in the atoll’s and Eniwetok Atolls and adja- lagoon. As a result of the under- cent regions within the Republic water nuclear bomb, “Baker Test”, of the Marshall Islands. U.S. the Bikini atoll was so devastated, that nearly all of the atoll’s veg- nuclear testing on the Marshall etation was destroyed, and the Islands inflicted significant dam- islands were sufficiently contami- age to property—lands, vegeta- nated to render them all uninhab- tion, lagoons, and surrounding itable until at least 2030. This was just the beginning of an insane ecosystems—as well atomic arms race that jeopardized as to people’s many pacific islanders’ lives and health. destroyed the surrounding nature. eight years later, the mother of all bombs completely vaporized five of the atoll’s northern islands (a total of about 68 acres or 27.5 hectares—four percent of the pre- test lands). The Castle Bravo test on 1 March 1954 was the most power- ful nuclear weapon ever tested bravo was an experimental thermo- shook islands 200km away and left a cra- Department of Energy staff. There is, how- by the United States. nuclear device with an estimated explo- ter 2km (1.24 miles) wide and 73m (240 ever, a large population of Bikinians liv- sive yield of 15 megatons and led to feet) deep. ing elsewhere in the Marshall Islands and widespread fallout contamination over overseas who hope to have the ability to the inhabited islands of Rongelap and Waiting to return return to their homeland someday soon. Utrōk Atolls, as well as other atolls to the Today, while the people of Bikini have over the past three decades, east of Bikini. The Bravo bomb wreaked yet to resettle their homeland; the island researchers from the Lawrence havoc with nature, as it raised water is populated by Bikini Project Department Livermore National Laboratory temperatures to 55,000 degrees Celsius, construction workers and some US (LLNL) have been evaluating

USS Arkansas (BB-33), a Wyoming-class battleship was the third wikipediacommons.ORG ship of the United States Navy named in honor of the 25th state 33 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A map of the array of tar- Aftermath get ships in Bikini lagoon for feature the Baker shot of Operation Crossroads on 25 July 1946. The ten red X’s mark the ten Cleaning up ships that sank. The area of The largest contributor to radiation doses serious ship damage is mar- from exposure to residual fallout contami- ked by the black circle, with nation in the Marshall Islands comes from a radius of 1,000 yards from cesium-137. This substance has entered the point of detonation. The the food chain and is found in, for exam- rim of the shallow underwater crater created by the blast, as ple, Coconut crabs and locally grown well as the circumference of breadfruit, which are important food the hollow water column that sources on the islands. lifted the Arkansas is marked cesium-137 radiation from plants that by the blue circle, which has grow on the islands is another major a 330-yard radius. Submerged contamination source. Another contami- submarines were the Pilotfish, nation source is plutonium, which is also (ship #8) at 56 feet, and the being tracked through measurement Apogon (ship #2) at 100 feet technology in support of the Marshall howard morland Islands plutonium urinalysis (bioassay) program. Research shows that the dose from land anywhere in the world, for a specific Researchers from LLNL have worked caesium-137, cobalt-60 and bismuth-207 period of time, would be higher than the Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory out a rehabilitation scenario involv- in the sediments on the ships and in the dose from swimming in the lagoon and A gamma spectrometer for radiological conditions on affected atolls ing treatment of agricultural areas with lagoon bottom while swimming near the diving near the ships for the same period determination of external and using the data to develop dose potassium fertilizer and removal of the ships is so low that it is, for all practical of time. gamma exposure rates in village assessments for resettled and resettling top 40cm of soil from the housing and purposes, zero. The dose to a person on to give you an additional perspective, and housing areas where people populations. According to scientists at village area. This method would actu- spend most of their time. the LLNL, should the Bikinians decide to ally expose the future habitants of the resettle, then it will probably be neces- contaminated islands to a radiation level Estimated intermediate contour sary to monitor the return of the popula- well below what is normal from natural

tion to provide ongoing assurances that radiation sources in, for example, the High-level contours Bikar Atoll safety standards are being met. These continental United States. Bikini Atoll One of last pictures of IJN programs would probably stay in place Enewetak Atoll Nagato, prior to being at least through the next 10-20 years. Rongerik Atoll Utirik Atoll Is it really safe Ailingnae Atoll towed to the nuclear test- the LLNL provide technical support to dive at Bikini? Rongelap Atoll Taka Atoll site at Bikini atoll. Many and conduct radiological surveys As Bikini has been developed into a Ailuk Atoll allied, and axis ships to verify the effects of cleanup dive travel destination, the question of Mejit Island of note, were towed Wotho Atoll activities to the local government. the potential radiological dose from Likiep Atoll Jemo Island there from various Ujelang Atoll R There are established a num- recreational diving and swimming in a Wotje Atoll parts of world ta ber of permanent radiologi- and around the ships has been raised. Kwajalein Atollk Ujae Atoll C Erikub Atoll Lae Atoll ha cal monitoring facilities at There is concern about the radiation P R in a a Maloelap Atoll c li remote locations in the both from the radionuclides present if k ic O Lib Island C Aur Atoll Marshall Islands. in or on the ships and c h ea ain in the seafloor of n Namu Atoll Jabwot

the lagoon (sedi- Ailinglapalap Atoll ments). Arno Atoll Majuro Atoll

Mili Atoll Jaluit Atoll

Namorik Atoll Kili Island Knox Atoll

Ebon Atoll wikipediacommons.ORG Map of the Marshall Islands 34 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Aftermath astonishing ability to recuperate after manmade disasters. Half a century after the last earth shatter- ing atomic blast shook the Pacific atoll of Bikini, the corals are flour- ishing again. An investigation concluded in early 2008 by an international team of scientists from Australia, Germany, Italy, Hawaii and the Marshall Islands, has revealed some truly remarkable findings. The expedition examined the diversity and abundance of marine life in the atoll. one of the most interesting aspects is that the team dived into the vast Bravo Crater left in 1954 Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory by the most powerful American ABOVE: Corals at Enewetak lagoon off atom bomb ever exploded (15 Runit Island, Enewetak Atoll, July 2005. megatons—a thousand times RIGHT: A so-called Massic Chair used for whole body counting, measuring the radiation dose delivered by internally deposited radionuclides

more powerful than the Hiroshima bomb). “I didn’t know what to expect— some kind of moonscape perhaps. But it was incredible, huge matri- ces of branching Porites coral (up to 8 meters high) had established, creating thriving coral reef habitat. Throughout other parts of the lagoon it was awesome to see coral cover as high as 80 percent and large tree-like branching coral forma- tions with trunks 30cm thick. It was

Silvia Pinca fascinating—I’ve never seen cor- Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory als growing like trees outside of the Lagoonal coral reef habitat at Bikini Marshall Islands,” said Zoe Richards of the fragile lagoonal specialists—slender ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef branching or leafy forms that you only the cesium-137 concentration in lagoon diving on the ships or swim- Studies and James Cook University, after find in the sheltered waters of sediment is much less than the cesi- ming in the lagoon near diving into the crater. a lagoon,” Richards explained. um-137 concentration in surface soil in the ships. It can therefore however, more than 50 years later, not For comparison, the scientists also the United Kingdom and Northern Europe be concluded that a diving everything has returned to the state it dived on neighboring Rongelap Atoll, from the Chernobyl accident. The prima- trip to the Bikini Islands is not was before. At least 28 species of coral where no atomic tests were carried out ry potential route of exposure of people harmful. previously found in the area has become directly, although the atoll was contami- from alpha and beta-emitting radionu- locally extinct. “The missing corals are nated by radioactive ash from the Bravo clides is by inhalation. There is no chance Radiant marine life Bomb. The Rongelap Atoll is the second of inhalation of these radionuclides while Nature has again showed an Large Acropora corals resemble largest atoll in the world with a huge Silvia Pinca trees in the lagoon at Bikini Atoll 35 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Aftermath amount of coral reef diversity and biomass; it lies Report UCRL-ID-123374, Lawrence Livermore upstream from Bikini. The scientists have reason to National Laboratory, Livermore CA 94550. think that these corals are seeding the Bikini cor- als, helping the reefs to recuperate. ■ Robison, W.L., Bogen, K.T., Conrado, C.L., 1997. An updated dose assessment for resettlement options Sources: at Bikini Atoll­a U.S. nuclear test site. Health Physics Marshall Islands Dose Assessment and 73(1): 100-114; 1997. Radioecology Program Hamilton and Robison (2006), The effective and Robison W.L. (1990). The Archeology of the Atomic environmental half-life of cesium-137 at former Bomb, US National Park Service Publication, nuclear test sites in the Marshall Islands, Report UCRL-MI-206535, Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory, Livermore CA 94550. Bikini on the web: www.nuclearclaimstribunal.comtes- ting.htm www.ns.iaea.org/appraisals/bikini- atoll.htm www.bikiniatoll.com Shipwrecks: www.nps.gov/history/history/online_ books/swcrc/37/chap4.htm Map of the Republic of Marshall Islands showing the fallout pattern from the Bravo nuclear test conducted on 1 March 1954. Image courtesy of Lawrence Livermore National Library The Bikini – French fashion that hit the beaches like a bomb Text by Arnold Weisz

That a minimalistic swim suit on evidence from Roman mosa- 1946. Strange as it may sound, Louis him with a name. Réard named his creation was named after ics and murals, historians have long Réard, the engineer, was actually design after Bikini Atoll in the Pacific, believed that the bikini was popular running his mother’s lingerie bou- the site of the Operation Crossroads some “post card pretty” swimming attire for ancient Roman tique near Les Folies Bergères in nuclear weapon test on 1 July 1946. tropical islands in the Pacific women. In the fourth century, for Paris in 1946. on 5 July 1946, he unveiled the is nothing less than what example, Roman gymnasts wore At the time, Réard’s main prob- bikini at a fashion event at Piscine it deserves. On the other bandeau tops and bikini bottoms. lem was that he didn’t quite know Molitor, a popular public pool in however, as archeologists work what to call his design. Being Paris to this day. Since its unveiling, hand, the thought behind their way through their discover- French, it would of course have to the bikini has become the favor-

An dr e a s W a h ra naming this piece of fashion ies, new insights come to light. be a name that would stir the mass- ite swim and beach wear around after these islands is much Cave excavators have discovered es. So, he searched for something much of the world, creating its more sinister. Minoan wall (Greece) paintings exotic, bold and eye opening. own billion dollar fashion industry. from around 1600 B.C. that show a the clue came from a very Although the very minimal bikinis The bikini, which shocked the two-piece outfit strikingly similar to remote place, in a rather spec- worn on Brazilian beaches today world when it appeared on the modern-day bikini. tacular fashion. Four days before he have lost some inches of fabric French beaches in 1947, was a the modern bikini was invented was to show the world his new bikini since Réard designed it, his bikini Woman in two-piece found on the mosaic in Greco-Roman invention. Based by French engineer Louis Réard in in Paris, the U.S. military provided will probably never go out of style. ■ Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina, Sicily, Italy

36 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The sun sets in front of our accommodations on one of Bikini Atoll’s beautiful beaches

Text and photos by Barb Roy

X-RAY MAG’s Barb Roy recently returned from a trip to Bikini Atoll. In contrast to the Bikini report by the expert Dutch expedition, Roy shares her perspectives as a rec- reational diver and wreck junky on the history and culture of Bikini Atoll. I too would have to agree, the journey to Bikini Atoll as a whole was a memo- rable experience. Similar to the Dutch expedition, I traveled with a group of technical divers to dive into history and see first hand the destruction of earlier nuclear weapons testing. None in our group claim to be hard core div- ers, we just enjoy what we do and spend most of our money on deep diving gear, Trimix fills and wreck expeditions. In this group, Wreck Junkies aside from myself, one is a lawyer, two are engi- Touching history... neers at Boeing, one is a carpenter and one owns a dive shop. In one way Journey to or another all six of us are wreck junkies, and this far away place seemed to serve as a stimulating caress for our addiction. Bikini Atoll

37 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Oahu, Hawaii was our first stopover. Divers traveling this route might want to stay longer in Oahu for div- ing and other activities like group rowing in an out- Oahu travel rigger or a kayak trip to a bird sanctuary Harpoon Missile System functions were and how they operated, especially the control operations for the 32 armored tomahawk missile launchers. The four 20mm Phalanx CIWS Gatling-style guns and the thick walled hatch into the ships’ Steering Room (reinforced to protect navigational operations) were equally impressive. “The tour of the USS Missouri was a real high point for me,” said Rob Wilson, a Boeing Aircraft Maintenance Technician, working in the military division, and diver

Mainly we wanted to get a sense of what Mess Hall (food preparation and eating the wrecks in Bikini once looked like before area), the Medical facility and Engineering they were sent to the bottom of the ocean Departments. We were all in awe of the in 1946, and the USS Missouri did just that. Combat Engagement Center where the USS Missouri The vessel is moored next to the USS A WWII Corsair Although I am the only female in the group, Arizona Memorial, another battleship plane ran out of and a travel journalist, I am accepted which was sunk during the Japanese gas just short of because I create these escapes and weave attack on Pearl Harbor in December of the airfield and has become a recipe of pleasing surprises, challenging 1941. This unforgettable time sparked a great dive dives and always add a twist of exploration the United States entry into World War II. in Oahu to the mix. The guys are also impressed that Over 1000 sailors and marines lost their I am a grandmother of five and use a single lives within the Arizona when it went tank to their doubles. down. But it was the USS Missouri, now We departed from the northwestern part sitting next to the Arizona that hosted of the United States (Seattle), just below the end of WWII when Japan surren- British Columbia, Canada, and flew to the dered on 2 September 1945. island of Oahu in the Hawaiian Island chain the ship’s tour included a chance to for our first stopover. It was nice to leave see where the crew was housed, their our thick dry suits and heavy weight belts behind. Unlike most tourists visiting Hawaii, sunbath- ing on warm sandy beaches and sipping Mai Ties was not on our agenda. No, touring the 887-foot (270 meter) long USS Missouri, an Iowa-class battleship and seeing the sleek steel-hulled USS Bowfin submarine at Pearl Harbor was all we could think about. You might say it is an indescribable sensa- tion when standing in the midst of the Mighty Mo’s nine 16-inch/50 caliber guns, realizing they are capable of launching 1800-pound shells (as heavy as small automobiles) over a distance of 23 miles!

38 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Oahu

for over 30 years. “Seeing Pearl USS Bowfin Submarine Museum Harbor, especially the Arizona & Park. The sub is 312-feet (95 Memorial, and standing on meters) in length and during the Missouri’s deck where its day boasted a speed of WWII ended when Japan sur- 20 knots when at the surface. rendered to General Douglas Waterfront Memorial is also MacArthur really set the tone located in the park in honor of for the whole Bikini trip for me.” the 53 American submarines the USS Missouri was the last and over 3,500 submariners lost battleship built by the United during WWII. States as part of an elite group of fearsome ships constructed USS Apogon during naval warfare. Extensive Similar to the Bowfin is the upgrades were made on sev- 312-foot USS Apogon (SS-308), eral occasions throughout the another Balao class diesel- Missouri’s colorful deployments, electric submarine resting on the last being Desert Storm the ocean floor as part of the in 1991 where 28 tomahawks Bikini Lagoon wreck dives. I were launched against Iraqi found myself looking at the forces. Today the “Mighty Mo” Bowfin imagining what it might serves as a floating museum be like standing next to the and memorial in Pearl Harbor Apogon underwater. open for daily guided and self- guided tours. Majuro Before long, we were on our USS Bowfin Continental Micronesia air flight Another piece of history worthy to Majuro, the capitol of the of a visit while in Pearl Harbor is Republic of the Marshall Islands Guided Tours of the Missouri are offered daily the USS Bowfin (SS-287), a Balao in Micronesia. The atoll itself by retired military veterans and volunteers who class submarine and a survivor covers an area of 3.75 square lend their personal experiences during wartime of WWII. In 1942, the USS Bowfin miles (9.9 km) and is located encounters to share the Missouri’s legacy. The ship was launched, and completed in the Central Pacific, about is open daily from 9 AM - 5 PM. Admission is $8.00us nine war patrols before being 2,200 miles west of Oahu (five- for kids and $16.00us for adults. www.ussmissouri. decommissioned and opened hour flight) and about 2,600 com, 1-877-MIGHTYMO. Visitors can drive or take to the public in 1981 for tours as miles east of Tokyo, Japan. a city bus to the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum part of a museum display in the U.S. currency is accepted and where they would catch a shuttle bus to the USS THIS PAGE: Pearl Harbor gives divers a glimpse of Bikini wrecks Missouri or the USS Arizona Memorial.

39 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Majuro, our second stop in the journey, offers Bikini visitors several dive charter opportunities travel in warm clear water full of marine residents Majuro Atoll our Air Marshall Islands flight of twisted metal and other debris rot- cies of soft and hard corals. leaving for Bikini the next day, ting in such a beautiful place. Coconut some dive sites are as close as the Paul Hangartner and I rented palms seemed to line the beach with a Grumman F6F Hellcat plane resting in sit-on-top dive kayaks and few sparse cabins and clothes lines full 115-feet (35 meters) of water just 1640 went for a paddle to explore of laundry in-between. We even came feet (500 meters) from our hotel’s dock! the shoreline within their calm upon several massive cargo ships looking This is the type of aircraft fighter brought lagoon. Now, Paul works for as if they were ready to be hauled away into service by the US government to Boeing delivering new aircraft for sinking as artificial reefs. battle against the Japanese ZERO during even though time WWII. In 1944, rumors have it the Hellcat did not permit dives had been pushed off an aircraft carrier while in Majuro, I deck. Now in silent solitude, the Hellcat did find several dive sits with wings folded back in a pre-flight operations offering storage position, acting as home to hun- local charters around dreds of fish, sponges, corals and anemo- Majuro and the near- nes. by Arno Atoll on the A few miles from another nearby dock Internet. Over 20 differ- is a Grumman “Duck”, inverted and ent dive sites around reported to be in excellent condition! This Majuro were listed, and so many other great reefs, vertical with a booming popu- walls and more wrecks make me want to lation of over 1000 return someday just to spend a few extra species of colorful fish days checking out the turtles, sharks, the United States and close to 250 spe- rays, schools of red snapper and angel (US). Marshallese citizens do not need visas to go to the US to live and work, and the same goes for Americans coming to in their commercial division the Marshall Islands,” and is very technically minded, said Niedenthal. usually figuring out complex Majuro Atoll was problems, even how to handle the place we trad- a kayak paddle. But some- ed Honolulu’s busy times his curiosity gets the best rush-hour traffic for of him, this time when his boat deserted island roads floated too close to a group where simple lifestyles of young boys out for a swim. prevailed and friendly Within seconds the kids, maybe Marshallese and English are spoken here. smiles were the norm. Not only does 6-8 year-olds ambushed him The Marshall Islands are made up of Majuro house the central government and climbed onboard for a 1,225 islands and 29 atolls (islands of coral and most of the country’s businesses, it ride! He wasn’t sure what to encircling a lagoon). Bikini Atoll is actually has become quite the urban scene with do. It was great fun watch- 2.3 square miles (6 km), and made up of several grocery supply stores, gift shops, ing Paul’s expressions as the 36 islands surrounding a huge lagoon. hotels and a few good restaurants. All munchkin invasion unfolded. According to Jack Niedenthal, Tourism of which made our stay at the Marshall once the kids grew tired Operations Manager for the Bikini Atoll Island Resort (100 room hotel) even more of Paul, they returned to their Local Government, stationed in Majuro, enjoyable. Of course, the 82-84F (28C) swim, and we continued on the Marshalls are an independent coun- degree air and water temperature didn’t our journey down the coast. It try with a seat in the UN. “The Marshalls hurt! was sad to see huge heaps of have a ‘free association’ relationship with to pass the time while we waited for rusted machinery and scores

40 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Bikini Atoll travel In Bikini the place was clean, food was good and beach- es were un- crowded

Video Clips

Check out three underwa- ter video clips from the dive on Majuro Atoll by Barb Roy. Click on the image link to view onine >>>

fish found residing on the dive sites exhilarating—kind of like landing on lation. Original residents are still around Majuro. a postage stamp—yet it added to in ongoing negotiations for a that night we sat around the din- the trip’s remote allure in a way. suitable solution for their safe ner table in our hotel restaurant shortly thereafter, the group was return to Bikini. and enjoyed a nice bottle of wine transported by boat to Bikini and Unfortunately for observers concern. In 1996, Jack Niedenthal with a good meal as we toasted assigned accommodations. After watching these volatile experi- helped to set up diving on Bikini, the opportunity to dive upon such meeting head divemaster, Jim ments, little was known at the time and thus dive tourism began forgotten mementos of an arduous Akroyd and his dive crew, we lis- about radiation fallout and its dev- through Bikini Atoll Divers. time in our history. tened to a brief history about Bikini astating after effects. Hundreds nowadays, it’s hard to tell any- With only a 40 pound (18kg) limit and ‘Operation Crossroads’ where were affected with radiation poi- thing ever happened. Bikini looked on Air Marshall Island’s small plane two important atomic bomb tests soning, and the island of Bikini like any tropical South Pacific to Bikini, I was in everyone’s good were conducted—Able (above was almost wiped clean of life. island—full of palm trees and graces as I managed to get a water) on 1 July 1946 and Baker The pressure wave was felt and beautiful beaches surrounded by waiver for our extra camera and (detonated from a depth of 90 measured as far away as Alaska! calm azure colored warm water— video gear for our documentation feet/9 meters) on July 26 of the In all, between 1946 and 1954 the except the trees grew in multiple work. Mark Theune, the lawyer and same year. US conducted 67 nuclear tests rows of straight lines, and the island the one with the most extra lug- Jim also explained how the local in, above and around Bikini and was void of tourists. At least we gage, even gave me some free Bikinian people had to be relo- Enewatak Atolls. didn’t have to worry about getting helpful advice on how to subjugate cated to another atoll before the In 1995 Bikini Atoll was deemed mugged on our holiday or standing a speeding ticket back home! tests could take place. This reloca- safe by scientist from around the in long ice cream lines. tion occurred three times before a world and reopened to the pub- Bikini Atoll suitable island was found to sustain lic shortly thereafter. Island water Diving Landing on the tiny atoll proved enough food to support the popu- and fruit consumption was the only Once the dive briefing was over

41 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll

everyone piled into our ride, an old mil- dive on their custom hanging deco-sta- USS Saratoga itary-style truck with a canvas covered tion with oxygen enriched air available During our week long excursion, we were open-air roof, and headed for the water! at 30, 20 and 10 foot stops. As we hung able to dive on the Saratoga several As with the Dutch group, our first at the station after each dive, one of the times, including one dive where we fol- dive was on the USS Saratoga (CV-3), crew came around to collect the pho- lowed the anchor chain down the stern a Lexington class aircraft carrier, at 880 tographic and video equipment, soon to find the TVF Avenger bomber aircraft feet (268 meters) long and 106 feet (32.3 resembling a mechanical lionfish when resting on its anchor gear with the cock- meters) wide. It was on this dive I also he was finished. I chose to keep my cam- pit open. According to Jim, the plane earned the respect of the dive crew era for possible shark shots, especially our was originally used for training. with my sparse single-tank air consump- friends circling the deco station! Mark, a diver since 1970, was excep- tion and relaxed nature. Actually, I knew Gen Akroyd, Jim’s wife, on occasion tionally thrilled with this dive, too, “I am that if I wore doubles, I would probably shared her I-POD music with me, mak- a history buff, and the opportunity to embarrass myself by ‘turtling’ or not being ing deco time more bearable. Watching have a personal connection with the able to climb back out of the water. Paul try to entangle himself around every- past by being able to touch an artifact Thereafter, I was assigned to an HP one and Mark create bubble rings (like of history holds a special thrill for me. 3500psi 119cubic-foot steel tank. smoke rings), was also very entertaining. That is what has drawn me to wreck div- All of our dives were typically between Nonetheless, I did enjoy wearing only four ing. For anyone who loves diving and is 150 and 180 feet (46-55 meters) deep pounds of weight with my 5-4-3mm one- fascinated by history, few destinations A closer look at the wrecks revealed a surprising amount of marine life with long deco times spent after each piece wetsuit and steel tank. can compete with Bikini Atoll. As is prob-

42 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll

ably true for most divers visiting Bikini, my foot flight deck to reach the ascent line favorite dives were those on the historic at the bow. As I made that long swim, I USS Saratoga. For years, the “Sara” was recalled the early photographs I had seen the only aircraft carrier within reach of showing biplanes landing and Charles divers. My most memorable dive on the Lindbergh strolling along this same storied Saratoga occurred the day our group set flight deck. It was a dive that will stay with out to visit a plane resting in the sand at me forever!” 180 feet just off the stern of the Sara. After As we ascended up the side of the photographing the plane, we ascended ship, Edward Madison, our Bikinian guide, to the flight deck. Ordinarily, divers visiting pointed out a huge turtle. He man- the plane proceed to the ascent line that aged to persuade it to stick around long was permanently attached to the ship’s enough for a few photos. bridge approximately midship. However, edward later told us he commonly does in 2006 the bridge of the Saratoga began 500 to 600 dives on these wrecks each to lean and become unstable forcing year, and it was he and Fabio Amaral the removal of the ascent line. This left who first started diving on Bikini’s wrecks inside the Nagato. We have found div- ascent lines at the stern and bow. Our in 1990. “When we have no customers,” ing helmets and brought them and other ABOVE: The conning tower of the USS Apagon. Hidden treasures of history can be found all group was one of the few to ever swim explains Edward, “I like to explore inside things out on the deck for the divers who over the wrecks, like the ships’ compass (above right) or the gun Jim Akroyd found (inset right) the entire length of the Saratoga’s 880 the wrecks. There is a huge rice cooker are not trained to go inside the wrecks.

43 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll RIGHT: Narrow passage into the USS Saratoga

LEFT: Diver check- ing out the marine life on the USS Apagon’s stern

Occasional Deco Station compan- ion (below)

Sometimes there are mantas, sharks, Macro magic but chose to explore the off-limits area of eagle rays and lots of turtles to see, too.” After shooting wide angle on most of the the Flight Tower with Edward. Since the When I found out Edward had a big wrecks, I decided to use a 50mm macro unstable structure is expected to topple blue coconut crab as a pet, he agreed lens on the upside down hull of the USS over anytime, I wanted to have some to bring it out for us to see and placed Arkansas and check out Bikini’s smaller images for my archives of how the ship it on a coconut tree. This critter is like a scenic wonders. It’s really amazing how originally looked. As hesitant as I was, I wide lethargic Maine lobster, but lives on a photographer’s sight changes after must have looked like I was approaching dry land. Actually, coconut crabs are the switching lenses! a dinosaur. The Saratoga’s many years largest living arthropods in the world, with the guys swore I was on another dive of service both above and below water two giant claws for climbing trees and when they saw my images of giant were taking a toll, yet the multitudes of crushing coconuts! anemones and a stunning variety of fish still swarmed around the tall structure pete Rozen, our Finish Carpenter of the anemone-fish living amongst their undu- without a care. bunch, was wondering how they would lating symbiotic hosts. One shot they once finished, Edward pointed out taste for dinner. Edward assured us the did drool over were close-up images of giant clams on the deck, soft corals cling- meat is very good and sweet but the the 3-inch fragmentation shells, still in ing to the Blast Gauge Tower (to hold Bikini Government advises visitors not to their holding crate. Jim said their green equipment during bomb testing), and eat anything growing or living on Bikini. appearance was caused by corrosion on tiny fish hiding in and around the forward While walking back to the cabins I their proximity fuse. 5-inch guns. could just imagine a great fictional story – After the dive however, I did hear about a giant blue coconut crab, affect- Penetration dives from the others about their experiences. ed by Bikini’s radiation, getting loose and On our last dives we were divided up Ron Akeson, owner of Adventures Down ABOVE: Ron Akeson shoots video of wreaking havoc in the South Pacific! and escorted into different areas of the Under in Bellingham, Washington said: “I the upside down Nagato. Perhaps I should stick to travel writing… Saratoga. I do enjoy entering wrecks, looked forward with great excitement to

44 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Silty running light on the Nagato (left), Life on the travel Saratoga’s flight deck Bikini Atoll jectiles. After a few more corridors, the barber shop, back through the admi- ral’s quarters, we ended up at CIC again. It was an incredible dive!” “During my Saratoga tour,” comments Pete Rozen, “We entered through the elevator shaft, I believe on the third deck down, to find offices and small working rooms. We saw gas masks telephones, desks stairways. I would say we were about 130 or so deep. There was a

our last dive, a penetration dive on the Saratoga. This was the culmination of our trip, and my favorite dive. Carefully I followed the divemaster down a narrow corridor, turned down another, and ended at the officer’s mess. It was as if the explosion never happened. A large coffee pot was still sitting on the counter, and dishes were still in the racks on the wall with a few bottles is requested. Hydration is very scattered about. Overhead the important, but with the desalina- incandescent light bulbs were tion of saltwater, electrolytes are still hanging from their sockets. removed from the water and We backed out and went further must be re-added. Gator Aid is down the corridor to the offi- available for sale or divers can cer’s ward room. Here we found bring a mineral additive drink sup- bunks where the officers slept plement. Diving season is March and maybe wrote home to tell of through November. their adventures. All too quick it Center (CIC) where we found lot of silt, and you had to really Unfortunately a decision was was time to leave. This is a dive I various radios, radar screens and be careful not to kick it up down made by the local government to will always remember and just a other equipment. From there the long narrow hallways with low close diving at Bikini Atoll in 2008. wetting of my appetite to return we moved to Admiral Halsey’s ceilings.” “There are currently no immedi- again one day.” cabin and office, then onto the ate plans to re-open Bikini, mostly “I went down the bomb eleva- officer’s mess. China and other Bikini diving due to very unreliable air ser- tor with Paul and made several artifacts were all around. After The Bikini dive operation recom- vice in the Marshall Islands,” said ful due to the economy in the Gen, his wife while diving on the turns,” added Rob Wilson when that, we went outside of the ship mends visiting divers have at least Niedenthal. States,” added Jim Akroyd, Saratoga. describing his final dive. “That and swam for a while then back 50 dives and full wreck and/or “The last word I got was that who has worked on Bikini since Jim also kept track of his dives, put us in the Combat Information in through a room storing gun pro- cave certification if penetration the 2010 season is highly doubt- November of 2003 and met “Believe it or not, I actually kept

45 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bikini Atoll

THIS PAGE: Be sure to take a closer look at Bikini’s wrecks for life when visiting. BELOW INSET: Historic artifact, a fan, recovered from the Saratoga by an original member of Operation Crossroads a record of every dive I did on Bikini, and Westmorland. As an accomplished under- in Operation Crossroads. My fan from I can tell you that I did 2548 dives in total! water photographer, she was anxious to the USS Saratoga is a relic of history I will 1103 on the USS Saratoga, 331 on the hear about my Bikini dive experience. always treasure. Thanks Mr. Benoy.” HIJMS Nagato, 379 on the USS Lamson, 133 She was especially interested in my dives Many divers have just always wanted to on the USS Anderson, 156 dives on the USS to the Saratoga. After describing to her go or wanted to feel the significance of Arkansas, 136 dives on the USS Apogon, some of the most incredible dives of my seeing such historical monuments of our 148 dives on the USS Carlisle, 16 dives on life, Michele told me she had a surprise time, but I believe Rob Wilson expresses it the HIJMS Sakawa, 28 dives on the USS for me. She told me that her dad, Dean best when he says, “It’s one thing to read Dive British Columbia’s Emerald Paradise Pilotfish, 19 dives on the USS Gilliam, 57 Benoy, was in the Navy and was sent to about history, but to actually reach out dives at Shark Pass and 42 reef dives.” Bikini for Operation Crossroads. and touch it makes it so much more real.” For more information on diving “I liked the idea of being so far away When she told her dad that she had a ■ in British Columbia, Canada: from everything,” commented Pete friend who was diving the Bikini wrecks, Rozen, a diver since 1996. “It was cool to he told her about how the sailors work- www.diveindustrybc.com be one of the last people to ever be able ing Operation Crossroads were given the to dive here. I liked the education about opportunity to take small souvenirs from the ships from Jim, the rooms were nice the ships before the ships were sent to the and the food was good. Just the idea of bottom. being out there all alone from the rest of he told Michele that he retrieved a the world was great.” wall fan from the Saratoga and still had it in storage. Mr. Benoy asked Michele to Afterthoughts give the fan to me, knowing that I would Even after the trip was over and every- take good care of it and give it a good one returned home the Bikini experience home. The next time Michele came for a lived on. Mark Theune informed me, visit, she presented the fan to me along “When I returned, I received a welcome with a copy of a certificate her father home call from my good friend Michele received commemorating his service Dive Industry Association of British Columbia

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www.seacam.com KwajaleinText and photos by Thorsten Repp Wrecks of the Pacific

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THIS PAGE: Eerie scenes from some of the sixteen wrecks of- Japanese cargo ships that can be found off the Kwajalein Atoll

PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver checks out the great propellor of the Prinz Eugen wreck. Just one of the blades is the size of a diver

Almost invisible for wreck divers all over the world one of the biggest wreck dive spots in the South Pacific can be found among the Kwajalein Atoll in the Marshall Islands. It was January 1943 when the heavy battle of Kwajalein took place during World War II on what was the outer ring of the Japanese force in the South Pacific at that time. The runways on the Atoll have been destroyed within a few days by the US troops and the following air raid sealed the fate of several big Japanese cargo ships which have been bombed to the seabed of the lagoon. Sixteen of these ships can be dived today. Overgrown by pale green organisms these big Japanese freighters form in the twilight of the depths the ghost fleet of the Kwajalein Atoll, one of the biggest World War II shipwreck graveyards in the South Pacific. several US aircraft wrecks are scattered around and many can be found on the northern tip of the atoll, Roi Namur. Right beside the

49 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Kwajalein

CLOCKWISE: Diver investigates remains of artilery and cargo on the Prinz Eugen wreck; Scenes from the white sandy beaches of Kwajalein Atoll; Diver peers into open deck chambers of the Prinz Eugen wreck

main Island rests a victim of “Operations Into the blue — Crossroads”, the nuclear bomb test series in diving the Prinz Eugen the Bikini atoll 1946. It is the German cruiser Just a few meters below the surface, the Prinz Eugen, the biggest and most magnificent massive body of the wreck is outlined in the wreck in Kwajalein. shallow water. Only the stern with the huge prinz Eugen has become known for the propellers can be seen of the 213 meter long fight alongside one of the famous battleships ship before the visibility lets the rest of the during World War II, the Bismarck, especially shipwreck vanish in blurry shades of blue. for its role in sinking the British HMS Hood. A single blade of the propeller is as big as In 1946, the Prinz Eugen was brought to a diver. Behind it is the giant and intact hull. Kwajalein after the atomic bomb test series. A swim between the stern and the sandy Due to bad damage, the vessel leaked just bottom leads to the top side of the ship where before the crew reached the safe harbor of the smooth current from the ocean side can Kwajalein Island. The big ship filled with water, be felt. rolled to its starboard side and sunk upside While moving deeper, a stroll alongside the down. vessel shows massive 8-inch battery guns. The Today, the wreck rests in 20 to 40 meters canons are buried half in the sand. of shallow water. The stern is partly out of the The superstructure has collapsed due to the water and exposed to the continuous waves heavy weight of the ship itself. Everywhere, and sharp blowing wind from the sea, which bigger parts of the ship are scattered in can get very rough from time to time. One the sand. A huge obscure spherical object, of the big copper props has been detached the gun director sits right beside the ship. and relocated to Kiel in Germany where the Torpedoes are sitting in their tubes, still as if ship was built in 1936. ready to be shot. Several doorways can be used to enter

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THIS PAGE: Gear wheels, relics and artifacts from the interior of the Prinz Eugen shipwreck. ABOVE: Divers swim past the rising towers of the wreck. PREVIOUS PAGE: A diver hovers over the wreck of the Prinz Eugen—divers find some torpedos still sit in their tubes

in years ago. Several sections of the wreck can be explored: galleys, storage rooms, bathrooms, generators, different types of shelves—more and more relics appear in the light of the torch. The officers rooms have chairs, tables and beds. Everything is buried under several inches of rust. The long time under saltwater has had its impact. It’s not unlikely to have to abort a penetration dive due to the fact that a ceiling of a deck has collapsed and bits and pieces prevent one from moving ahead. Not far away from the Prinz Eugen are numerous Japanese freighters resting not much deeper than 60 meters in the lagoon. Some of them are sitting upright, some on their sides, and others upside down. The AKIBASAN Maru, ASAKAZE Maru, and TATEYAMA Maru, just to name a few, sunk very close to the inside of the ghostly scene. each other. These cargo ships are fairly wreck. A dive into Navigation demands concentration intact but have been cannibalized these openings leads due to the fact that the wreck is lying over the years. Therefore, the smaller through rusty red upside down. Beds are mounted to parts are gone, but bigger items, like alleys. These old walls the “ceiling”. Divers can penetrate ammunition, shells and spare props, can move slowly and statically back and deeper into the wreck while moving still be found on and inside the wrecks. forth driven by the current. It is a strange along white ropes that were brought Gauges are still mounted in the engine

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THIS PAGE: Scenes from the Japanese ship wrecks easily identified by their small lad- ders on the bow typical for their day

Divers check out relics and ar- tillery shells left over from days gone by

PREVIOUS PAGE: Divers ex- plore cannons on the decks of some of the wrecks of the Japanese buildt ships, some cannons are still pointing upwards towards would-be attackers

rooms. The huge cargo holds are almost completely empty. Barracudas circle the wrecks frequently. Corals and sponges cover the wrecks, and swarms of smaller fishes often pass by. These wrecks lurk in the gloomy water, and the greenish color from the growth covering them makes them look like ghost ships. some canons are still pointing usually easy to access. The coral encrusted masts upwards towards the surface occasionally, a mast lays are interesting objects to where the attackers were across the big openings of observe during the ascent and coming from. A number of the cargo holes. The strange descent. The anchor windlass these cannons are dismantled looking airscoops nearby the and the canons, with their small but some are fairly complete. superstructure remind one of ladders on the bow, are typical Inside, the ship’s big big tubas. There is so much for the days when these ships gearwheels and iron plates are historic material in the water were manufactured and make piled on top of each other. The that it is hard to decide what to it easy to identify a ship as huge engines ringed with the explore next. Japanese built. cat walks and small ladders are

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Downed planes sponges. From a certain angle the Leaving the main bay and traveling sunlight is reflected by the lines of up north to Roi Namur one can find rivets. Some planes are still in good many discarded US aircrafts that shape while others have been have been dumped in the water completely dismantled. here; B-25 bombers, C-46 transport A truck right beside an upright aircrafts and F-4 C-46 on white sand makes a strange Corsairs can be scene of an artificial underwater found only a few airfield. meters below the A variety of interesting wrecks surface. can be found in the waters of colorful Kwajalein, but unfortunately, the atoll fishes circle the is a military off limits area; therefore, THIS PAGE: Scenes from downed aluminum bodies basically no tourism exists, and only planes, discarded US aircraft sub- of the wrecks, one abandoned hotel is located on merged in the waters around which are resting the island. It is truly a challenge to Kwajalein including B-52 bomers and on white sand get there, but it’s worth all the effort transport aircraft, even remnants of a surrounded by as soon as the first wreck comes into military truck can be found nice corals and view. ■

55 X-RAY MAG : 29 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Loca- Bokak tion of the Marshall Islands on NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN global map Bikar fact file RATAK Marshall Islands FAR RIGHT: Enewetak Bikini Location Rongerik Utirik CHAIN of Kwajelein Ailinginae Rongelap Taka Atoll on map of Ailuk Wotho Mejit Marshal Islands RALIK Likiep Kwajalein Island Ujelang Wotje Ujae sources: Yann saint yves, michael aw, CHAIN Maloelap US cia world fact book, SCUBADOC.COM Erikub Lae Ebeye Aur Namu History After almost four dec- 1986 and the Amended Compact surrounds the world’s largest FEDERATED STATES OF Majuro Arno ades under US administration as entered into force in May 2004. lagoon and is used as a US mis- MICRONESIA Ailinglapalap the easternmost part of the UN Capital: Majuro. sile test range; the island city of MAJURO Mili Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, Ebeye is the second largest settle- Jaluit the Marshall Islands attained Geography Oceania, two ment in the Marshall Islands, after Kosrae Knox independence in 1986 under a archipelagic island chains of 29 the capital of Majuro, and one of income from Namorik Kili Compact of Free Association. atolls, each made up of many the most densely populated loca- the renewal of fishing vessel Ebon Compensation claims continue as small islets, and five single islands tions in the Pacific licenses have held GDP growth to a result of US nuclear testing on in the North Pacific Ocean, an average of 1% over the past some of the atolls between 1947 about half way between Hawaii Economy US Government decade. Agriculture: coconuts, and 1962. The Marshall Islands and Australia. Coastline: 370.4 assistance is the mainstay of tomatoes, melons, taro, bread- hosts the US Army Kwajalein Atoll km. Terrain: low coral limestone this tiny island economy. The fruit, fruits; pigs, chickens. Industry: Population 63,174 (July 2008 (USAKA) Reagan Missile Test Site, and sand islands. Lowest point: Marshall Islands received more copra, tuna processing, tourism, est.) Ethnic groups: Marshallese a key installation in the US missile Pacific Ocean 0 m. Highest point: than $1 billion in aid from the US craft items (from seashells, wood, 92.1%, mixed Marshallese 5.9%, defense network. Government: unnamed location on Likiep 10 from 1986-2002. Agricultural pro- and pearls). other 2% (2006). Religions: constitutional government in m. Note: the islands of Bikini and duction, primarily subsistence, Protestant 54.8%, Assembly of free association with the US; the Enewetak are former US nuclear is concentrated on small farms; Climate tropical; hot and God 25.8%, Roman Catholic 8.4%, Compact of Free Association test sites; Kwajalein atoll, famous the most important commercial humid; wet season May to Bukot nan Jesus 2.8%, Mormon entered into force 21 October as a World War II battleground, crops are coconuts and bread- November; islands border 2.1%, other Christian 3.6%, fruit. Small-scale industry is limited typhoon belt. Natural hazards: other 1%, none 1.5% (1999 to handicrafts, tuna processing, infrequent typhoons. census). Internet users: 2,200 and copra. The tourist industry, (2006) now a small source of foreign Environmental issues inad- exchange employing less than equate supplies of potable water; Language Marshallese 10% of the labor force, remains pollution of Majuro lagoon from (official) 98.2%, other the best hope for future added household waste and discharges languages 1.8% (1999 census) income. The islands have few from fishing vessels. Agreements: note: English (official), natural resources, and imports far party to: Biodiversity, Climate widely spoken as a second exceed exports. Under the terms Change, Climate Change- language. of the Amended Compact of Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, Free Association, the US will pro- Hazardous Wastes, Law of the Links vide millions of dollars per year to Sea, Ozone Layer Protection, Ship Marshall Islands Visitors the Marshall Islands (RMI) through Pollution, Wetlands, Whaling. Authority 2023, at which time a Trust Fund www.visitmarshallislands.com made up of US and RMI contribu- Currency 20.5 Maldivian rup- tions will begin perpetual annual pies (MVR)= 1€ (2008), but many Embassy of the Marshall payouts. Government downsizing, resorts show prices in US dollars Islands drought, a drop in construction, and in Euro. www.rmiembassyus.org ■ the decline in tourism, and less

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