TAM THERE

Čarobni briški trikotnik

A Magical Brda Triangle

Šmartno

Goriška brda so v prvi vrsti poznana kot dežela vinske trte, vina in vinskih kleti, a to še zdaleč ni vse ... Če se človek prepusti njihovemu utripu, ugotovi, da so Brda tudi dežela prvih rdečih češenj, nebeških grižljajev briških dobrot, neštetih zapeljivih razgledov, domače »igrišče« gospodične rebule in gospodiča sauvignonassa, dežela avtohtone briške sorte oljk – črnice, akacijevega in kostanjevega medu ter na koncu in nenazadnje dežela sončnih nasmehov prist- nih in toplih ljudi, ki jim tesno povezana družina predstavlja najvišjo vrednoto.

38 JESEN 2011 a 72 kvadratnih kilometrih pa so Brda še vedno v pretežni meri raz­prostirajoča se deželica bela, predvsem na račun rebule in sau­ N je edinstvena in samosvoja, vignonassa. Pri rebuli, ki je ena najbolj bogata, pisana in živahna ter polna razširjenih sort na briških lapornatih tleh, življenja v vseh letnih časih. Česar ne lahko govorimo o dveh obrazih: prvi je da narava, dajo ljudje, Brike in Brici, s obraz mlade nežne gospodične, ki jo s svojo odprtostjo, gostoljubnostjo in svežino in sadnostjo podpisuje sortnost, radoživostjo. Vse, kar tu že od nekdaj drugi pa je obraz mogočne gospe bo­ pridelajo pridne roke, odraža ljubezen gatega telesa in zanimivega potenciala, in odseva briško dušo. Skrbno obdelani kjer nemalokrat že skoraj težko govori­ vinogradi in sadovnjaki se prepletajo mo o sortni rebuli, ampak prej o velikem z redkimi zaplatami gozda. Vasi med vinu. Medtem ko je s sauvignonassom, terasasto urejenimi vinogradi (in sadovn­ kljub temu da odlično uspeva na briških jaki) po pobočjih in slemenih gričev pa tleh, »križ« – nekoč je bil furlanski tokaj, kažejo značilno sredozemsko kulturo nato so ime tokaj zaščitili Madžari in je – so strnjene, z veliko kamnitega gra­ postal točaj, a še ni bilo dovolj ... Pred diva in krite s korci, s številnih gričev pa dobrima dvema letoma se je zato »rodil« pozdravljajo bele cerkvice. Briški griči, sauvignonasse (ali zeleni sauvignon), kar kjer si je približno 6000 prebivalcev ure­ so vinogradniki in vinarji sprejeli vse prej dilo domačije, se raztezajo tudi preko kot z navdušenjem. Zato danes na trgu državne meje – od smaragdne reke najdemo že več kot 20 različnih fantazij­ Soče na jugovzhodu do reke Idrije na skih imen ... severozahodu, zaključujeta pa jih stara očaka, hrib Sabotin na vzhodu in Ko­ Brda so res čisto poseben in samosvoj rada na severu. svet, ki je mnogim znan, a maloštevilnim poznan. V želji, da bi vam Brda ne bila Goriška brda ali Brda so eden izmed štirih (več) znana neznanka, vam v nadalje­ vinorodnih okolišev Primorske vinorodne vanju predstavljamo čarobni briški trikot­ dežele – tisti najbolj »pisan«, saj poleg nik in nekaj skrivnih namigov, za katere belih sort odlično uspevajo tudi rdeče, ki vam svetujemo, da se jim pustite zapel­ dajejo izjemne rdeče zvrsti. Kljub temu jati čim prej. In jesen je kot nalašč za to! Fo t o: TIC BRD a , ar h iv : i š marica agencija j o ta

2011 AUTUMN 39 TAM THERE

Grad Dobrovo Dobrovo Castle

Dobrovo zadruge Goriška brda, ki je odigrala na­ dvse pomembno vlogo pri uveljavitvi Dobrovo je upravno in gospodarsko briških vin tako doma kakor tudi v svetu. Namigi: ogled gradu Dobrovo v kombinaciji z središče Brd, ki ureja »skupne težave« Zaščitni znak Dobrovega je nekdanja rez­ obiskom Vinoteke Brda, pokušina v kleti Goriška Brda, Gradnikovi večeri (v drugi polovici novem- za 15 briških vaških skupnosti. V naselju, idenca grofov Baguer – grad Dobrovo – bra), ogled galerije grafičnih del Zorana Mušiča, ki leži na podolgovatem hrbtu griča med renesančna stavba s kvadratno zasnovo domačija Medot. potokoma Reka in Donank, domuje in s štirimi stolpi na vogalih, ki so jo okoli največja klet v Brdih – klet Kmetijske leta 1600 zgradili na temeljih starejšega.

Medana

40 JESEN 2011 Šmartno Medana

Nedvomno ena najbolj slikovitih pokra­ Vasica Medana, ki je v zgodovinskih jin v Evropi ohranja tradicionalno zapisih prvič omenjena leta 610, je podobo življenja z vtisnjenim pečatom srce Brd in rojstni kraj Alojza Gradnika, srednjeveške arhitekture, ki jo v vsej svoji pesnika med moderno in ekspresioniz­ lepoti ponuja vasica Šmartno, ki ji je pre­ mom. Iz Medane pa vodita dve »greha teklost burnih stoletij pustila neizbrisan vredni« poti – proti Ceglem in proti pečat. Vas Šmartno, ki velja za kulturni Plešivem, ob katerih domuje kar nekaj spomenik prve kategorije, je v bistvu vinogradnikov in vinarjev, ki sodijo v protiturški tabor oziroma srednjeveška našo »vinsko reprezentanco«. Ja, če utrdba, ki je nastala na ostankih rimske­ smo iskreni, je velik del tistih, ki bi, če ga oporišča, z deloma dobro ohranjenim bi obstajala vinska olimpijada, sestav­ obzidjem s štirimi trdnjavskimi stolpi iz 1. ljali »slovensko vinsko reprezentanco«, polovice 16. stoletja. Ko vstopite skozi doma ravno iz Brd. Teorij, zakaj je temu obzidje, naj vas tišina in zaspanost ne tako, je sicer več ... In ravno izlet v tisti zavedeta. Tu se namreč skozi vse leto košček sveta zna potrditi ali ovreči mar­ vrstijo odmevni dogodki in prireditve sikatero izmed njih. – med drugim tudi tradicionalno marti­ Namigi: turistični kmetiji Belica in Klinec; ob novanje v Šmartnem, ki bo letos 12. in levem flkraku« Medane, na Ceglem, domujeta Medana 13. novembra. Movia in Marjan Simčič; ob desnem flkraku«, na Plešivem, pa vinogradniško-vinarski družini Namigi: okrepčilo v Turnu na koncu vasi, nebeške Stojana Ščurka in Boruta Blažiča ter tenis in sanje v hiši Marica, ogled baročne cerkve sv. odbojkarsko igrišče s pogledom na vinograde Martina s freskami Toneta Kralja in trdnjavskim in morje v daljavi, pa domačiji Toroš in Bužinel, stolpom iz 14. stoletja, Hiša kulture. kjer se lahko odlično okrepčate. TAM THERE

Sabotin ‡ park miru Soteska Krčnik Pohodne poti Razen domačinov malokdo ve, da je v Sabotin je Soča ločila od Svete gore in V projekt Občine Brda »Pohodne poti po pasu apnenca potok Kožbanjšček (do tako je postal ponosni samotar, ki po­ češnjevem cvetu« je vključenih 8 pohodnih katerega pridemo, če v vasi Neblo za­ hodniku ponuja več, kot bi mu pripisali poti. Vse poti so označene s tablami, ki jih vijemo desno) izdolbel izredno slikovita ob pogledu iz doline! Sabotin, na vrh ka­ krasijo rožice različnih barv, in so poimeno­ korita z imenom Krčnik. Okoli 40 metrov terega vodijo poti iz šestih smeri, je park vane po starih sortah češenj: Čmpevka, dolga korita se začnejo z ogromno miru, ki obiskovalcem nudi sprostitev v Črnica, Drugmbernca, Kozanka, Prvačnca, drasljo, nekje na polovici pa se raz­ naravi, hkrati pa z jarki in kavernami iz Bjla cpika, Trcinka in Karnjuka. Posebno penja naravni most, ki je od leta 1985 prve svetovne vojne, ki ga prepredajo, mesto med potmi pa zavzema 3 kilomet­ razglašen za naravni spomenik. spodbuja k premisleku o nesmiselnosti re dolga krožna Gradnikova učna pot, ki vojn in nasilja. Zato je njegovo poslan­ obiskovalca vodi od spomenika pri gradu stvo postati glasnik miru in sožitja med Dobrovo, skozi vinograde, vse do Gradniko­ narodi. ve rojstne hiše v središču vasi Medana.

Sabotin

Sabotin ‡ The Park of The Krčnik Gorge Hiking Trails Peace Except for locals, hardly anyone There are 8 hiking trails within the Brda knows that in this limestone area the Sabotin, which is separated from Sveta Municipality’s “Hiking Trails along the Kožbanjšcˇek Stream, which can be Gora Mountain by the Socˇa River, has Cherry Blossoms” project. All trails are reached by turning right in the Village of become a proud place of solitude and marked with boards that are decorated Neblo, eroded very picturesque chan- offers hikers more than one could as- with flowers of various colours and are nels called Krcˇnik. The approximately cribe to it when viewing it from the valley! named after the old cherry varieties: 40m long channels start with an enor- Sabotin, to the top of which routes lead “cˇmpevka”, “cˇrnica”, “drugmbernca”, mous pothole and somewhere in the from six directions, is a Park of Peace “kozanka”, “prvacˇnca”, “bjla cpika”, middle there is a natural bridge span- that offers visitors relaxation in nature “trcinka” and “karnjuka”. A special place ning over it which in 1985 was declared and is also covered with trenches and among the trails belongs to the 3km a natural monument. caverns from the First World War that long, circular Gradnik educational path encourage reflection upon the absurdity that leads visitors from the monument of war and violence. That is why its mis- at Dobrovo Castle through vineyards all sion is to become a herald of peace and the way to Gradnik’s birth-home in the cohabitation among nations. centre of the Village of Medana.

42 JESEN 2011 The Goriška Brda Hills are primarily known as a land of vines, wine and wine cellars, but there is so much more that the region has to offer... If you surrender to its pace, you will discover that the Brda are also the land of the first red cherries, of inspired local delicacies, innumerable views, the “home turf” of the Ribolla and Sauvignonasse wine grapes, the land of the native “črnica” species of olive trees, acacia and chestnut honey and last, but not least, the land of the warm smiles of genuine, friendly people who consider close-knit family as their greatest treasure.

This small land, spreading out over just buildings covered with convex tiles and account of the Ribolla and the Sauvignon- 72 square kilometres, is unique, indepen- small white churches on numerous nearby asse varieties. With Ribolla, which is one dent, rich, colourful and full of life during hills. The Brda, where approximately six of the most widely used varieties on the all seasons of the year. What nature does thousand inhabitants set up their homes, marl grounds of Brda, one can describe not provide is provided by its people, expand even beyond the national border it as having two faces: the first is that of called “Brike” and “Brici”, through their from the emerald Socˇa River on the south- a young lady, marked with freshness and openness, hospitality and cheerfulness. east to the Idrija River on the north-east fruitiness by the varietal characteristics, Everything that has been produced here and are rounded in by the old high hills and the other is that of a magnificent Ma- by diligent hands reflects the love and the of Sabotin to the east and Korada to the dame of full body and interesting potential. soul of the Brda people. Carefully cultivat- north.The Goriška Brda Hills or Brda are Its qualities make it difficult to discuss the ed vineyards and orchards intertwine with one of the four winegrowing districts of the variety itself, but rather to discuss instead rare patches of forest. The villages situated Primorska wine-growing region; the most the great wines it produces. Sauvignon- among terraced vineyards (and orchards) “colourful” of the four, because besides asse, despite the fact that it thrives on the on the slopes and ridges of the hills display white vine varieties, red varieties also grow grounds of Brda, is a “problematic” variety their characteristic Mediterranean culture - here and produce intensely red wines. De- – once it was called the “furlanski tokaj” they are condensed, with a lot of stone spite this, the Brda are primarily white on (Tocai Friulano),­ but then the name “tokaj” TAM THERE

(Eng. Tocai) became a protected name by half of the 16th century. When you pass Hints: a visit to the Dobrovo Castle in combina- tion with a visit to the Brda wine shop, wine tast- the Hungarians, and the name became through the wall, do not be fooled by the ing at the Goriška Brda cellar, the Gradnik Eve- “tocˇaj”, but even that name change was quiet and calm of the place. Throughout nings (in the second half of November), a visit not enough... Therefore, two years ago, the year, a series of much-noted events to the gallery of engravings by Zoran Mušicˇ, the the name Sauvignonasse (or Sauvignon and performances take place here - Medot home. vert) was “born”, a name which the wine- among others the traditional celebration growers and wine-makers are less than of St Martin’s Day, which this year will take Medana enthused about. Thus, one can now find place on 12 and 13 November. The Village of Medana, which was first more than 20 various fantasy names for mentioned in historical records in 610, the wine on the market ... The Brda re- Hints: a refreshment in Turn at the end of the vil- is the heart of Brda and the birthplace of ally are a unique and independent world lage, heavenly dreams in the Marica house, visit Alojz Gradnik, who was a poet between to the baroque church of St Martin, with frescos the modernist literary era and the expres- that many know about, but only a few truly by Tone Kralj, the fortress tower from the 14th know. Our wish is for Brda to cease being century, the House of Culture sionist era. There are two “sin-worthy” a known unknown to you. Therefore, be- routes leading out of Medana – towards low we present you with the magical Brda Dobrovo Ceglo and towards Plešivo – located triangle and a few secret hints, and we ad- Dobrovo is the administrational and eco- along which there are quite a few wine- vise you to let yourself be enticed by them nomic centre of Brda, which manages growers and winemakers that belong to as soon as possible. the “common problems” of all 15 village our best “national team of winemakers”. communities of Brda. In the settlement Yes, honestly speaking, a large share of Šmartno that is located on an oblong back of a hill them would be part of the “Slovenian This is undoubtedly one of the most pic- between the Reka and Donank streams national team of wine makers and grow- turesque landscapes in Europe, and it lies the largest cellar in Brda - the cellar ers” if the Wine Olympic Games existed. preserves its traditional portrait of a life of the Kmetijska zadruga Goriška Brda There are several theories why this is so, characterised by medieval architecture agricultural cooperative, which played a and a trip to that small part of the world that is available in all of its beauty in the Vil- very important role in helping establish can confirm or reject many of those lage of Šmartno, a place which the centu- the renown of the Brda wines in Slove- theories. ries of the past left with an indelible mark. nia as well as abroad. The characteristic Hints: the Belica and Klinec agritourism farms The Village of Šmartno is considered to symbol of Dobrovo is the former resi- on the left “wing” of Medana; in Ceglo, there are be a first class cultural monument. At its dency of the Baguer Counts, Dobrovo Movia and Marjan Simcˇicˇ, on the right “wing”, in heart is an anti-Turk defence or medieval Castle, a renaissance building with a Pliševo, there are the wine-growing families of Stojan Šcˇurek and Borut Blažicˇ and a tennis and fortress, built on the remains of a Roman square design and four towers on the volleyball court with a view of the vineyards and stronghold, with a partially well preserved corners that was built around 1600 on the sea in the distance, the Toroš and Bužinel wall and four fortress towers from the 1st the foundations of an older castle. homes where you can have an excellent meal.

Ekipa Hiše Marica Team of Hiša Marica

Tradicionalno prešanje Tradicional pressing

Vinska klet Goriška Brda Wine cellar Goriška Brda

44 JESEN 2011 Vredno obiska Worthy of your visit

Vinoteka Brda The Brda Wine Shop

Če želite pripotovati v Brda na skrajnem­ zahodu Slovenije in spoznati teritorij, vinarje in oljkarje ter okusiti briški šalam, briške kozje sire, bovški ovčji sir, tolminec in montaž, veliko bolonjsko mortadelo, domač kruh, briška oljčna olja, marmel­ ade, briški med in briške žganjice in grozdni sok rebule ter 315 vinskih etiket 49 briških vinarjev, potem se morate ustaviti v Vinoteki Brda na gradu Dobrovo.  If you wish to arrive in Brda, in the far western part of Slovenia, and get to know the territory, the winemakers, the olive growers and the tastes of Brda salami (šalam), Brda goat cheeses, Bovec sheep cheese, “tolminec” and “montaž” cheeses, the large bologna sausage, homemade bread, Brda olive oils, jams, Brda honey and Brda spirits, the grape juice of the Ribolla and 315 wine labels from 49 winemakers, then you have to stop at the Brda Wine Shop at Dobrovo Castle. Turistična kmetija Štanfel Delovni čas: vsak dan (razen torka) med 11.30 in 21.00 ter po dogovoru The Štanfel Agritourism Farm Open: every day (except on Tuesdays) between Marsikateri gost, ki zaide na kmetijo Štanfel z letnico 1827 v 11:30 and 21:00 and as per agreement mali dolinici Vamorje v vasi Podsabotin, se ne more načuditi prelepi naravi in miru, ki skupaj z oljkami objema kmetijo. A Grajska cesta 10, 5212 Dobrovo to ni vse! Tu se v veliki obokani kamniti kleti rojevata penini T: +386 (0)5 395 92 10 W: vinotekabrda.si Lucija White in Lucija Rose. Z veliko skrbnostjo in ljubeznijo gospodarja Štefana. Izročilo, izkušnje in sveža znanja so dala pečat njegovim vinom, ki ju postrežejo ob svečanih trenutkih in zadnje čase vedno tudi ob jedeh, ki jih pripravljajo po starih receptih.  Many guests that visit the Štefanel Farm, which was established in 1827 in the small Vamorje valley in the Vil- lage of Podsabotin, are amazed by the wonders of nature and the peace that together with the olive trees encompasses the farm. But there is more! Here, the sparkling wines Lucija White and Lucija Rose are birthed in a large arched stone cellar. They are made with great care and love by the master Štefan. Tradi- tion, experience and knowledge have made their mark upon his wines, which are served on special occasions and now also with food that is prepared according to old recipes.

Delovni čas: petek, sobota in nedelja ter po dogovoru Open: Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and as per agreement

Podsabotin 5, 5211 Kojsko T: +386 (0)5 304 62 52 W: stanfel.si

2011 AUTUMN 45