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WHO WE ARE

Front of Book: Our Crush

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ith a drink as nuanced as a cool, crisp martini, where you sip it makes all the difference. This straightforward usually involves Wlittle more than and dry . At CLASSIC MARTINIS these four spots, the martinis are exceptional and come with Four iconic spots to drink them a sidecar of history. —Kara Newman

THE FOOD LOVERS’ CHICAGO: Gibson’s & Steakhouse Since 1989, this cozy favorite is the place to settle in for and old-school martinis, whether at a white-clothed GUIDE TO NAPA table or the long, curved bar. From the eight-item “martini list,” Dining in, taking out and going to lovers might try a classic Vesper market are but a few ways to eat your (vodka, gin, Lillet). However, purists will opt for gin, served in way through the city of Napa. an enormous V-shaped glass em- blazoned with Gibson’s name and garnished with two speared .

LONDON: Duke’s Bar Reportedly, this is where James Bond author Ian Fleming came up with 007’s famous catchphrase, “shaken, not stirred.” (The martinis at this upscale, clubby hotel bar are actually stirred.) Order from the bar cart, stocked with multiple that are chilled in the freezer to a viscous, almost syrupy consistency. These are mixed with dry vermouth and bitters, and adorned with an elegant lemon-peel twist.

LOS ANGELES: Musso & Frank Grill This Old Hollywood haunt has mixed martinis since 1919, and has been famed as a literary hangout since the ’30s. Back then, motion- picture execs would peruse scripts, and contracts would be signed at the leather booths. Adorned in signature red jackets, the veteran barkeeps here have served Hollywood greats and hopefuls for decades. They serve up stiff martinis—gin, dry vermouth, and fat, green olives—and present the extra liquid in a small carafe set in ice.

NEW YORK CITY: Charlie Palmer at the Knick The historic Knickerbocker Hotel reopened in Times Square in 2015, which brought back to glory a birthplace of the martini. According to one of the cocktail’s many origin stories, Knickerbocker bar - tender Martini di Arma di Taggia mixed up dry vermouth and gin for magnate John D. Rockefeller in 1912. Today, restaurateur Charlie Palmer’s slick new space on the fourth floor offers an excellent house martini. It’s made with Tanqueray 10 gin, dry and sweet , and a mix of orange and citrus bitters,

served in a slender Nick and Nora glass. OFFSET / PETROW ANNA MEG BAGGOTT MEG

Sashimi at Morimoto

WINEMAG.COM | 15 22 | ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2017

winemag.com WHO WE ARE

Front of Book: Our Crush

Acropolis Museum GREEK OUT shop oleni’s new seven-story flagship store, set in the Kolonaki shopping Y district, stocks more than 2,500 destination regional products. Among its treasures are a dizzying array of olive oils and honeys, along with cured meats, fresh cheeses and handmade , so you can assemble the perfect picnic lunch. It also houses the No longer austere, the Greek country’s first olive-oil bar, where you can try extra-virgin offerings paired with wine, capital is rich in eats and drinks. and even chocolate. ATHENS Don’t know your from your Avgoustiatis? Let Sofia and Dimitris see Athanasopoulous of Fine Wine, an all-Greek shop in historic Plaka, educate you on the he modern, glassy Acropolis native varieties. Many bottles hail from small Museum houses treasures from producers not found outside the country, and T 2,500 years of Greek history. most are priced around €15 (about $16 USD). Some 4,000 artifacts are displayed on You can book a tasting with local cheeses, its three levels, but the crowning glory is starting at €18. the massive, full-scale reproduction of the Along Monastiraki’s narrow streets, in Parthenon’s inner temple, replete with the shadow of the ancient Agora, is Athens’ original sculptures and friezes. For many visitors to , Athens is a pit stop on the way to the islands: famed outdoor flea market, a jumble The city’s National Museum of Check out the Acropolis, the Agora, and you’re done. But if you linger a little of stalls selling everything from antique Contemporary Art opened last fall in a former brewery in the Koukaki neighbor - longer, you’ll discover a modern side to this ancient capital. There are hip furniture to old typewriters and ancient coins. Though open daily, Sundays are prime hood. Its permanent collection features craft-cocktail bars, a lively contemporary art scene and stylish cafés that more than 1,000 Greek and international dish up cutting-edge cuisine. Here’s where to find them. —Jennifer Ceaser time for bargaining with vendors gathered in Avissinias Square. Look for deals on vintage artists from the 1960s onward. A series china and sterling silver. of rotating exhibitions include collabora- tions with cutting-edge art institutions Monastiraki Flea Market like the Museum of Contemporary Art Antwerp. eat The season for “cinema under the rganic and farm-to-table aren’t stars” runs from May to October, with just buzzwords at Nice-n-Easy: more than 90 pop-up outdoor screens O This Kolonaki restaurant owns all over the city. One of the most famous a vegetable farm in Crete and a water is the 1920s-era Cine Paris in Plaka, buffalo ranch on Kerkini Lake, where where you can soak up great views of it sources the meat for its delicious drink the Parthenon from its enormous roof signature meatballs. The healthy salads, garden and watch new releases or classic house-made pastas and satisfying hour getaway ined from floor to ceiling with bottles of brightly Hollywood flicks (subtitled in Greek). sandwiches are best savored on its colored , Brettos looks ultramodern, but sprawling hilltop patio. this Plaka distillery/bar is the oldest in Athens, Hop a ferry (four times daily, two hours L 4 dating to 1909. Sample a distinct mastika , made Café Ivis serves traditional Greek by express) or a plane to the volcanic like salty and from tree resin, or brave a boozy glass of , served island of Santorini, said to be the creamy hummus, grilled Crete sausage straight from big wood barrels. inspiration for Plato’s Atlantis. While a and beet salad topped with yogurt in an A new entry to the city’s booming craft-cocktail popular stop for cruise ships, you can unassuming corner spot in the lively Psiri scene, Noel shakes up some of Athens’ best drinks on dodge tourists by renting a scooter neighborhood. The tiny ’s wallet- busy, bar-lined Kolokotronis Street. It sports theatrical- and getting lost in the island’s winding friendly prices and generous portions styled décor, with deep-red walls, Oriental carpets, streets leading to ancient villages, the make it a big hit with locals. ornate chandeliers and a mish-mosh of curios. It’s the famed volcanic black beach or the If you tire of Greek fare (is that perfect backdrop for creative libations like the Autumn majestic Thira archaeological site. A few possible?), pop by colorful Taqueria in Paris, a blend of white rum, liqueur, cinnamon of the half dozen wineries have public Maya, just a stone’s throw from central and apricot bitters. tasting rooms, and the Koutsoyan- Syntagma Square, for California-style Coffee shop by day and wine bar by night, Drupes & nopoulos Winery has a charming wine tacos and burritos. Fresh fillings include Drips is a favorite of Plaka denizens who stop by for a museum. Sit back and sip Assyrtiko, the spicy lamb barbacoa with cilantro, and cappuccino in the dog-friendly space or a quick espresso island’s signature varietal wine, while sweet potatoes with chorizo. Wash it all through the open window. Enjoy your selection with a taking in the jaw-dropping views on the down with a refreshing Greek beer. divine pastry from Takis bakery across the street. caldera side of the island.

Nice-n-Easy SILVERJOHN / GETTY; JOHN WESLEY BROWN;IANWOOL FAZON1 / GETTY / GETTY; Brettos

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2017 WINEMAG.COM | 23

winemag.com WHO WE ARE

Front of Book: Our Crush

HEART’S DESIRE Pair fruity chocolate with: BOOZY BONBONS Dark chocolate often has fruity notes that range from raisin to dried cherry, blueberry No pairing required here, as these confections are infused with or citrus. Mezcal plays up that brightness, or influenced by spirits. which lets the fruitiness shine through. This ♦ Batch PDX surprising combination works best with a Look for edgy flavors like Yuzu Gimlet and Bullet Run Bourbon OUT OF THE BOX lightly smoky mezcal. alongside nonalcoholic bonbons. Flavors change frequently. (batchpdx.com, $28/box of 12) These chocolate and spirits pairings Recommended mezcal: ♦ will set the heart aflutter. Los Amantes Mezcal Joven, $50 (94 points) Hudson Valley Bourbon Dark Milk For those who prefer bars to bonbons, this limited-edition bar is made from roasted cocoa nibs aged with staves from Tuthilltown hocolates and Valentine’s Spirits’ Bourbon barrels. Day go together like, well, (tastefruition.com, $12/2.12-ounce bar) chocolates and Port. And while ♦ Neuhaus Liqueur Chocolates that’s a tried-and true pairing, These dark chocolate truffles are filled with name-brand spirits, higher-octane spirits can including Glenfiddich , Cointreau, Smirnoff Vodka and Remy Calso provide a fantastic backdrop to let Martin . (neuhauschocolate.com, $39/box of 20) chocolate shine. According to Megan Giller, author ♦ Roni-Sue Cocktail Collection of a forthcoming book about American A former bartender, Rhonda “Roni-Sue” Kave offers cocktail- chocolate, barrel-aged spirits like inspired truffles in flavors like Green Fairy (), Dark & Stormy and Margarita. Rose liqueur-infused “Roni’s Roses” also make a whiskey or aged rum echo the natural special appearance for Valentine’s Day. vanilla and caramel richness found in (roni-sue.com, $26/box of 12) many chocolates. Lighter spirits like gin can help bright fruit flavors really pop, she says. There are, however, limits to chocolate pairings. “ do not work with chocolate, unfortunately,” says Giller. “There are just too many contrasting flavors, and a lot of cocktails are served cold, which mutes the flavor of the chocolate and doesn’t melt the chocolate in your mouth.” Pour those high-quality spirits straight, she advises, and skip the ice. —Kara Newman Pair white chocolate with: GIN OR Without the cocoa solids used in dark or milk chocolate, “it’s all cocoa butter and sugar,” says Giller. That means the floral notes found in gin or blanco Tequila work well to perk up white chocolate.

Recommended gin: Citadelle Gin, $25 (94 points)

Pair nutty chocolate with: Pair milk chocolate with: RUM BOURBON, RYE OR SCOTCH Whether in bars or bonbons, rich milk chocolate is a natu- For chocolate that has naturally nutty flavors, like single- ral companion to aged rum. If your chocolate is a rung or origin bars from Central America or Venezuela or nut- two above a Hershey bar, you’ll find plenty of butterscotch studded confections, whiskey is your best bet. Look for and caramel that echo the same flavors in good aged rum. bottlings with hints of walnut or almond. “The chocolate Runner-up: a dry Curaçao (orange liqueur). “Orange and picks up the notes from the nutty spirits and just takes AHN SIMI chocolate is a classic combination,” says Giller. “This is just it to the next level,” Giller says. a different form of it.” Recommended whiskey: Recommended rum: Caña Brava Reserva Añeja, $45 (92 points) Four Roses Kentucky Straight , $19 (93 points)

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2017 WINEMAG.COM | 23

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Editorial Features

SPARKLING ith high-quality sparkling wine available at every price point, there’s no need to Wlimit consumption to special events. We’ve assembled our tasters’ favorite bubblies from $25 or less—bottles that are ideal for casual gatherings and meals—up to the ultra-splurges destined for milestone celebrations. No matter the reason for indulging your For Any Occasion fizzy bliss, with this many great choices, you can’t go wrong. Cheers! From the exclusive to the every day, these bubblies from around the globe suit every palate and wallet.

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST

PHOTOS BY MARCUS NILSSON STYLING BY AMY ELISE WILSON BY STYLING

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2017 WINEMAG.COM | 35

winemag.com WHO WE ARE

Editorial Features

think Sicily is probably the most interesting place in Europe,” says Celestino Drago, the LA restaurateur “Anyone who wanted to control the “Ibehind Drago and il Pastaio. Drago Mediterranean needed to control Sicily,” hails from Messina, in northern Sicily. says Gary Portuesi, president of the travel “Look how it’s situated geographical- company Authentic Sicily. “Conquerors BRILLIANT ly: Everyone stopped there, and everyone came and went for thousands of years, brought something. Even today, you see the including the , Romans, Arabs, Arab influence on the west coast and the Normans, Spanish, Austrians, French, Greek influence in the east.” Germans and others, all bringing with Sicily also offers some of Italy’s most them their ingredients: wheat, diverse cuisine. Even its most traditional almonds, figs, , dishes will vary from chef to chef and home tomatoes, chocolate [and] to home. It provides an incredible range of peppers.” The following SICILIAN options for an island that’s a mere four-hour recipes are a taste of This Italian island offers some of drive from end to end. these varied flavors. the country’s most diverse cuisine, with wine to match.

BY NILS BERNSTEIN PHOTOS BY AARON GRAUBART FOOD & PROP STYLING: MARIANA VELAQUEZ STYLING: & PROP FOOD

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2017 WINEMAG.COM | 77

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Editorial Features

The Wine Enthusiast Guide to BY THE EDITORS DECODED OF W I N E GINUse this graphic guide to find your new favorite. ENTHUSIAST

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JUDITH VAN Fashion DEN HOEK & Wine Wine never goes out of fashion, and now fashion influencers are getting into wine. From top designers and globe-trotting models to photographers bringing beauty to life, the world’s most stylish have a serious taste for the vine and are, in many cases, doing double business duty in both worlds. And why BY K A R A not? Equal parts science and art, both wine and NEWMAN

fashion transport us to another time, place and culture, with texture, ageability, color ILLUSTRATIONS BY and structure describing the best of ALAN BAKER cloth and bottle. So raise a glass to the marriage of style and stems—a beautiful pairing indeed.

he subtle flavorings that make gin so delicious can seem downright inscrutable. Many producers don’t even list ingre- PAIRING dients on their labels, which only WINE & sustainsT the mysteries of gin, whose lore has FASHION been elevated by the likes of fictional charac- The Designer: ters such as Jay Gatsby and James Bond. Michael Kors But we’re here to take the guesswork out The Essence: Bold and sexy, of gin. This guide lists popular gins based on accessible, casual comfort their dominant flavors, collectively known as The Wine: Lodi Zinfandel botanicals. Pine-like juniper is required for The Essence: A true American success gin, though distillers can tune that juniper story, Zinfandel seemingly came out of note to be a whisper or a wallop. Beyond that, nowhere to liven up our lives and wine botanicals can vary widely. The most common glasses. Although some versions can include spices (coriander, cardamom, ), come on a little strong—think Michael flowers (rose, lavender) and citrus peel (lemon, Kors on Project Runway—most bottles grapefruit). Use the guide below to identify a from Lodi are as easy and approachable flavor you like in old standbys, and perhaps, as a Michael Kors handbag or summer S E C T I O N find a new favorite gin. dress. The bold fruit and strong acidity EDITOR Note: The botanicals listed are as provided are ideal for meaty, smoky cookout fare, MIKE DE by the producers. Where unavailable, tasting while some Zinfandels from Lodi would SIMONE notes were used to identify botanical flavors. not be out of place at a refined dinner.

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