SEWING WITH SILK By RENEE POTTLE

ilk. The mere word creates Sa vision of SILK FABRIC TYPES cascading softness The finest silk fibers are produced and elegance, but by “cultivated” silkworms grown in its popularity goes a controlled environment. The beyond luxury. Like worms are fed a diet of mulberry leaves and increase their body size other natural fibers, 10,000 times in their short life span. fibers clockwise and others After the cocoon is spun and prior to the worm silk breathes, counterclockwise. The twisted fibers are hatching into a moth, the cocoon is soaked in then woven in a plain-weave fabric, but it’s making it the hot water then unraveled, producing filaments the twisted fibers, not the weave, that gives up to a mile long. perfect choice for crepe its distinctive “pebbly” feel. Both both warm winter Like other fibers, silk can be woven or knit sides of the fabric look and feel the same. into a variety of fabrics. Although we tend to underclothes or Crepe de chine drapes beautifully and think of silk fabrics as light and delicate, there works well for looks, bias-cut skirts, cool summer tank are medium- and heavyweight silk fabrics also. blouses and dresses. Look for patterns with tops. It doesn’t pill, I Charmeuse. When we think of silk this is soft gathers or pleats that can be pressed, and its fiber dyes often the fabric that come to mind. The but refrain from tailored styles because the to beautiful, bright back of the fabric is a flattened crepe while fabric is too soft to hold a structures shape. the front is a shimmery satin weave. Crepe de chine doesn’t ravel as easily as colors rarely seen in other silk fabrics, but it will tear it not Charmeuse has even more drape than crepe handled gently. other fibers. Silk de chine and works well for scarves, blouse can be worn as a and lingerie. Look for patterns that are I Douppioni. Douppioni is a plain-weave loose and flowing or have soft gathers, but fabric with slubbed ribs. It has a stiff, casual blouse with avoid pleats as the fabric drapes too easily taffeta-like hand and is usually dyed in denim or to hold the shape. Use the “with nap” bright colors. pattern layout to prevent color distortion. transformed into Douppioni makes up well into semi-tailored the most formal I China silk. Chins silk is a lightweight, garments like vests and dresses. It can be sheer, plain-weave fabric. It’s sometimes gathered, but the gathers will be large and evening gown. referred to as habutai, but unlike true may overpower the design. Douppioni is Functional and habitual, it’s very lustrous and smooth. often made into elegant evening gowns – durable, it has a Most often found dyed in soft pastel colors, just make sure the style isn’t too fitted, it’s one of the less expensive and more as the fabric doesn’t great variety of uses commonly available silk fabrics. stand up well to stress and and comes in many Choose Chine silk for scarves, Always practice stitching ravels easily. forms. soft blouse and to line vest on a fabric sample first. The few and jackets. Gathers and minutes spent practicing will save It’s often tucks hold well in this fabric, you time and frustration later. recommended but it isn’t recommended for fitted that douppioni be garment styles because the seams will dry-cleaned to resist tear from stress. abrasions. However, you can wash douppioni with positive results, just be sure I Crepe de chine. Crepe de chine is a to serge the raw edges first to prevent lightweight fabric made by twisting some fullness. It also tends to ravel, so avoid If you only have a zigzag plate, cover close-fitting styles. the larger hole with clear tape. I Tussah. Tussah silk, often called I If puckered seams are a problem, or shantung, is made from the cocoons of you’re having trouble feeding the wild tussah silkworms who eat oak fabric into the machine, place tear- and juniper leaves. Because the worm away stabilizer or tissue paper on both isn’t grown in a controlled sides of the seam. environment, the moth hatched from I Mark lightweight silks with tailor’s the cocoon and interrupts the filament tasks or dressmaker’s chalk. length. As a result, the fibers are short and coarse instead of long and I Finish seams with serging or use lustrous. French seams to prevent raveling. Consider adding an additional ?” Tussah silk is difficult to dye and is most (6mm) to seam allowances when often available in its natural color, a cutting out fabrics that ravel easily, creamy tan. Because of its irregular slubs such as douppioni, noil and tussah. and the fact that it ravels easily, tussah should be dry-cleaned. I Practice on a fabric sample first. The few minutes spent practicing will save Tussah makes beautiful jackets and you time and frustration later. raveling. Washing will make the fabric tailored dresses and is a good choice for lose some of its stiffness, which may traveling as it doesn’t wrinkle easily. SOURCE Because it doesn’t stretch or gather well, be desirable depending on your prefer - If the silk fabric you’re looking for isn’t ence, and the color will often soften as choose patterns that are shaped by seams, and be aware that sleeves may be hard to available locally, check with the following the excess dye is washed away. As source: with all silks, it will shrink, so pre- set in. The ribs also have a tendency to treat it before cutting out the pattern. slip, so pin well or baste before stitching. I Noil. Silk noil is made from the short fibers left after combing and carding SEWING SILK FABRICS Silk yardage and artist items. so it doesn’t shine like many other silk Contact them for a free brochure. I fabric. Noil looks similar to cotton, but If the fabric has a slippery quality, pin it 252 State Street has the soft feel of silk against the to a sheet before cutting out the pattern. Los Altos, CA 94011 skin. It also drapes better than cotton The sheet will stabilize the fabric. phone (800) 722-7455 email: [email protected] and resists wrinkling, so it’s the I To eliminate slippage while sewing, perfect choice when traveling. use a flat-bottomed presser foot and Order online at: www.thaisilks.com Silk noil can be used for either pleated tighten the presser foot pressure. or gathered-styled blouses, skirts, I Pin lightweight silks and douppioni in dresses, slacks and unstructured the seam allowances. Many people use CARING FOR jackets, but be sure to pretreat the short, thin silk pins, but you can use fabric before cutting out the pattern. It any type of pin as long as it’s sharp SILK FABRICS can be machine washed on gentle and and free from burrs. I Silk is extremely strong, but repeated dried on low, but this will cause a exposure to the sun will erode the I faded, “weathered” look. If you prefer Make sure your sewing machine is fiber. As a result, silk fabrics are poor bright colors, dry-clean or hand wash. clean and free of lint. choices for curtains and draperies. I I Some silk yardage and clothing can be I Raw silk. Raw silk is any silk yarn or It isn’t necessary to use silk thread when sewing silk fabrics. A thinner, hand washed if done carefully. Use a fabric that hasn’t had the sericin – the mild detergent and lukewarm water, natural “gum” that protects the fiber - good quality 100-percent polyester then roll the fabric in a towel to removed. The fabric is stiff and dull thread works well. absorb the water. Iron dry on a low and the sericin tends to attract dirt and I setting. If you’re unsure about washing Use sharp scissors when cutting out your yardage, test a swatch first. odors. your pattern. Sharp scissors cut easily, I Structured silk garments and fragile I limiting fabric movement. Shantung. Once made from hand- fabrics should be dry cleaned to reeled tussah silk, today’s shantung is I For lightweight fabrics, use a new, prevent damage. Multi-color prints usually made with cultivated silk warp sharp 9/65 machine needle; for may need to be dry-cleaned to prevent running. yarns and heavier douppioni filling medium- and heavyweight fabrics, use yarns. Depending on the filling yarn, a 12/80 machine needle. I Moths will attach silk, as well as wool. shantung may be lustrous or dull. Store your silk clothing appropriately. I For lightweight fabrics, use a I Because of its firm, semi-crisp hand, Never use chlorine bleach on silk. It throatplate with a small hole so the will yellow the fiber. shantung gathers and pleats into crisp fabric doesn’t get pulled into the hole.