Scarves with Sea Silk Warp and Eyelash, Bouclé, and Elastic Silk Wefts

Scarves with Sea Silk Warp and eyelash, bouclé, and elastic silk wefts

DIANA SANDERSON

A Sea Silk warp and a versatile twill draft allow the weaving of many different scarves on the same warp— by varying the treadling sequence or the weft yarns or both. In some scarves, the weft is prominent; in others the warp. The weave structure can appear distinct or indistinct. (For more information about Sea Silk yarns (70% silk, 30% Seacell), see The Yarn of the Hour, Handwoven, November/ December 2007, pages 62–63.)

ea Silk, the warp yarn for this pro - ble two-tie,” two of the other shafts are ject, is a blend of silk with one of WHY WEAVE (OR threaded in each unit (1-3-2-4) rather the recently available “renewable” than one (1-3-2-3) as in summer and win- S COLLECT) SCARVES? fibers—Seacell. Seacell is made with a ly- ter; hence the label “double.” ocell base to which a small amount of sea- Weave scarves instead of samples you Note, however, that the structure pro- weed has been added. This silk/Seacell keep in a drawer. Scarves are big duced by the draft in Figure 1 is actually blend has a beautiful sheen and an affin- enough to allow experimenting with a twill, not a supplementary-weft weave ity for dyes both natural and synthetic. color, sett, drape, yarn combinations, with tie-down threads like summer and As a fan of pure silk yarns, I was surprised scale, and texture—yet small enough winter. The repeating ends on shafts 1 and to find Sea Silk has more luster than pure that failures are not devastating. You can 2 make possible a plaited-twill design on silk and an attractive “slippery” hand. study the finished product to visualize a eight shafts instead of the twelve that Seaweed is used in cosmetics because shawl, throw, dress, or coat while also would be required without them. it is believed to impart beneficial miner- having a beautiful, wearable product. als to the skin. The manufacturer of Sea- From a wearer’s point of view, scarves Possible scarf variations cell suggests that the same benefits may can update or add excitement to any It is possible to weave many different twill be imparted through the yarn. So in addi- outfit—even changing its look entirely. designs on this threading (and plain tion to looking good, fabrics made from You can never have too many scarves! weave). The fanciest plaited-twill design Seacell may help the wearer feel good, too! A scarf can also make accessible hand- (treadling c) requires twelve treadles. If Four colors are used in the Sea Silk crafted work that might be unaffordable you don’t have that many, however, a sim- warp for these scarves: teal, purple, taupe, as a larger garment. pler plaited twill can be woven using fewer and a multicolored strand that combines Scarves can be displayed as works of treadles (treadling a or b, Figure 1). the other three. They are arranged in a art on their own. Place them over In addition to using different tread- gradation from teal to purple to taupe. couches and chairs or grouped on a lings, changing weft colors or yarn types display rack. Each one can be removed, can produce a different look. Scarf A uses The draft for the scarves worn, and appreciated (yet another a teal silk bouclé weft. In selected spots, The twill draft for these scarves is derived reason to have lots of scarves!). an elasticized silk is used to cause a rip- pled effect. Scarf B uses an unevenly spun black silk weft, and Scarf C combines Diana Sanderson of from what has been called the “double black silk bouclé and black silk eyelash. Vancouver, British Co- two-tie” threading system (see Figure 1, lumbia, is owner of The page 3, and Resources). In this system, Silk Tree, specializing in Resources shafts 1 and 2 are repeated throughout silk and yarns that mix Barrett, Clotilde, and Eunice Smith. Double other fibers with silk. the threading just as they are in summer Two-Tie Unit Weaves. Boulder, Colorado: and winter (a “two-tie” weave). In “dou- Weaver’s Journal Publications, 1983.

© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. handwovenmagazine.com 1 Scarf A (upper left) is woven with a teal silk bouclé weft (and in selected areas an elastic silk weft); Scarf B (center) is woven with a unevenly spun black silk weft; and Scarf C (lower right) is woven with alternating wefts of black silk bouclé and silk eyelash yarns.

20x Step Wind a warp of 404 ends 7 yd long 1234 5 6789 1011121314 following Figure 2 for three scarves 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 1. Draft for 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 (allow 80" each additional scarf). These 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 1 scarves 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 directions are for warping back to front 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 (for complete warping steps see Re- 2 2 2 2 2 2 222 2 22 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1111 1 1 1 sources at handwovenmagazine.com). plain weave Except for the ﬁrst and last 2 ends, 2. Warp color 20x 15x 10x 10x 10x 15x 20x a wind 4 ends together, keeping them order 100 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Multicolored 102 2 3 2 1 Taupe separate with your ﬁngers but plac- 100 1 2 3 2 1 Purple 102 1 2 32 Teal ing them together in the cross. 404

Step Spread the warp in a raddle centered for fringe, weave Scarf C using tie-up for 10" and place lease sticks in the For all treadling and treadling d (1/3 plaited twill) for sequences, weave cross. Beam the warp under ﬁrm, the first 2 picks of b 2 57" alternating 1 pick black eyelash even tension. Thread the shafts follow- the repeat at the silk with 1 pick bouclé. Then weave 4" end of the scarf ing the draft in Figure 1 and the color to balance. using uneven-spun black silk for a con- order in Figure 2 (you don’t have to trasting border if desired (the border is d maintain the exact color order). 1234 56789 not shown in the photo on page 2; 8 8 8 8 also, the photo shows the back side of 7 7 7 7 Step Allowing 8" for fringe including the 6 6 6 6 the cloth as it is woven, not the face; 5 5 5 5 amount used to tie on, weave Scarf A 4 4 4 4 more weft shows on the face with this 3 3 3 3 using treadling sequence a, b, or c 2 (this scarf is woven with sequence c, 1/3 interlacement). 1 c but if you do not have 12 treadles, you Step Again allowing 8" for fringe, remove can pick one of the other sequences the scarves from the loom and cut for a slightly smaller plaited design). 4 apart. Prepare a twisted fringe for all Weave 5" with silk bouclé, 1" alter- three scarves including 14 threads in nating 2 picks elastic with 2 picks each fringe (twist two groups of 7 sep- 1 bouclé, 4" bouclé, ⁄2" alternating 2 arately in the same direction until they picks elastic with 2 picks bouclé, 3" kink; allow them to twist together in 1 bouclé, 1 ⁄2" alternating 2 picks elas- the opposite direction; secure with an tic with 2 picks bouclé (for a 15" bor- overhand knot). Trim fringe evenly. der). Weave 31" bouclé. Then reverse the border for 61" total. Step Wash the scarves by hand gently in Allowing 16" between scarves for lukewarm water with a touch of mild fringe (8" for each scarf), weave Scarf 5 soap (Orvus Paste or Ivory Snow). Rinse well. Hang over a padded rod B using treadling a, b, or c with black Tie-up and treadling Treadling sequences uneven-spun silk for 61". to dry and steam press before scarves sequence d weaves a, b, and c weave 2/2 a 1/3 plaited twill. plaited twills. Again allowing 16" between scarves are completely dry.

PROJECT AT-A-GLANCE

Weave structure for scarves Teal, 430 yd (1 oz); silk elastic (70,000 404 ends 7 yd long (allows 3" take-up, Plaited twill. yd/lb), black, 15 yd. For Scarf B: 20/2 34" loom waste; loom waste includes uneven-spun silk (4,960 yd/lb), black fringe at beginning and end of warp). Equipment 1 389 yd (1 ⁄4 oz). For Scarf C: silk bouclé 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent (7,440 yd/lb) and silk eyelash (2,970 Warp and weft spacing reed; raddle; 3 shuttles. yd/lb), black, 189 yd (1 oz) each; 20/2 Warp: 40 epi (4/dent in a 10-dent reed). 1 1 Width in the reed: 10 ⁄10". uneven-spun silk, black, 25 yd ( ⁄16 oz). Yarns Weft: Scarf A, 24 ppi; Scarves B and C, Warp: 30/2 Sea Silk (70% silk, 30% Sea- Yarn sourc es 20 ppi. Woven length: 63" per scarf cell, 7,440 yd/lb), Teal #47 and Taupe #206 Silk/Seaweed (Sea Silk), #202 Silk (32" total unwoven for fringe between 3 #400, 714 yd (1 ⁄5 oz) each; Purple Bouclé “Frisé,” #205 Elastic Silk, #6 Un- scarves). #34 and Multicolored #401, 700 yd even Spun Silk Fine, and #204 Silk “Eye- 3 (1 ⁄5 oz) each. lash” are all available from The Silk Tree. Finished dimensions Weft for Scarf A: silk bouclé (7,440 yd/lb), Amounts produce three scarves 9" x 57" Warp order and length each with 5" fringe (elastic sections in