Marjorie Janko, Lingerie Designer, Papers, 1885 - Ca

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V&A Archive of Art and Design

Marjorie Janko, lingerie designer, papers, 1885 - ca. 1975

Table of Contents

Introduction and summary description ...... Page 3

Context ...... Page 3

Scope and content ...... Page 3

Provenance ...... Page 3

Access ...... Page 3

Related material ...... Page 3

Detailed catalogue ...... Page 5

Design and production papers ...... Page 5

Surveys and design reports ...... Page 9

Publications, lectures and written material ...... Page 16

Reference material ...... Page 19

Career and business papers ...... Page 24

Personal items, Undated ...... Page 26

Introduction and summary description

Creator: Marjorie Janko Reference: AAD/1998/14 : AAD/2011/5 Extent: 216 files

Context

Marjorie Janko was born on 12 May 1909 in London. She was educated in London, attending the Haverstock Central School and then Barrett Street School for Hairdressing. She subsequently worked freelance for British Celanese in London from 1927 to 1929. In 1929 British Celanese employed her on a permanent basis. She went on to found the company's design department in London and design sections at other plants including Congleton, Spondon and Wrexham. She also set up the company's showrooms, the first of which was at Hanover Square. She quickly shifted her own design expertise to designing lingerie, and some underwear for children and men. She worked under the name Miss Marjorie Marene, signing her work MM. During the Second World War, British Celanese temporarily relocated its headquarters in Nottingham. Marjorie Janko's department was responsible for making military tents and garments which conformed to British Utility Standards.

Although she continued to be employed by British Celanese, and subsequently Courtaulds when it took over British Celanese, until her retirement in 1974 she also undertook commissions for other companies, including Marks and Spencer plc. During the 1940s and early 1950s she was a columnist for The Maker-up, writing articles on pattern laying and lingerie trends. She produced a history of lingerie, completed in 1951. Although the history had a publisher it never appeared. In the 1960s Marjorie lectured on the history and development of lingerie. She also conducted a number of surveys of the lingerie industry and analysed the differences between the stock of many large department stores. She travelled to shows worldwide in order to keep up with fashions.

Marjorie Janko became a Fellow of the Clothing Institute in 1950, a Member of the Lingerie Standards Committee of the British Standards Institute and a Member of the Council and Qualifications and Education Committee of the Clothing Institute.

Scope and content

Sketchbooks; production and operation papers (ca. 1927 – 1968); Spondon Fashion Show (1952); photographs (ca. 1950s); Celanese catalogues and price lists (1885 – 1953); Celanese shade books (ca.1924 - ca. 1966); design sketches (ca. 1964 - ca. 1966); painted designs undated; surveys of nightwear and lingerie (ca. 1966 – 1967); designers' reports (1964 - 1967); designs, sketches and patterns (ca. 1964 - ca. 1975); sizing surveys (ca. 1961 - ca. 1967); study of other designers (undated); articles (1943 - 1951); lectures (ca. 1960s); displays (ca. 1950 - ca. 1967); display indicators (ca. 1960s); production of modern lingerie (ca.1951); sketches (ca. 1951); correspondence concerning M. Marene's production of modern lingerie book (ca. 1951); catalogues of prints ca. (1960s); advertising (1954 - 1966); newspapers (1950 - 1959); scrapbooks (1900 - ca. 1955); other designers (undated); fabric samples (undated); advertising photographs (undated); reports (1961); publications and brochures (1896 - ca. 1974); employment contracts, (1934 – 1950); certificates (1940 – 1950); correspondence, (1950 – 1971); memorandum and articles of association (1933); shares certificates (1933); personal items, (undated).

Provenance

Given by Marjorie and Elizabeth Janko, 1998, AAD/1998/14.

Given by Effie Elizabeth Janko via Richard Janko and Michele Hanoush, 2011, AAD/2011/5.

Access

This archive is available for consultation in the V&A Archive and Library Study Room, which is located at Blythe House, 23 Blythe Road, Olympia, London, W14 0QX. The Study Room is open Tuesday to Friday between 10.00 am and 4.30 pm, by appointment only. To request an appointment please email [email protected] or telephone 020 7603 7493. Access to some files may be restricted; these are identified individually with the catalogue.

Restrictions on use

For conservation reasons the photocopying of archival material is not permitted. Archives may be photographed for study purposes only, at the discretion of the archivist.

Detailed catalogue

Design and production papers, 1885 - 1968 Reference: Janko-1 Extent: 50 files

Sketchbooks, ca. 1935 - ca. 1967 Reference: Janko-1-1 Extent: 10 files

Includes annotated sketches. Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/1 Paris 1936 1936 1 volume, 3 inserts AAD/1998/14/2 Sketchbook ca. 1960 1 volume AAD/1998/14/3 Sketchbook Undated 1 volume AAD/1998/14/4 Sketchbook ca. 1935 - ca. 1939 1 volume Includes annotated sketches signed DW apparently not Marjorie Marene's work, together with annotated sketches in Majorie Marene's hand. Also includes fabric samples. AAD/2011/5/1 Sketch book Undated

1 volume Includes water colour pattern for laces and pencil drawings. AAD/2011/5/2 Sketch book 1967

1 volume, 1 insert Contains sketches and annotations and one loose paper insert. These sketches were probably used for reports, it includes sketches from Paris shops, Marks and Spencer, sketches from

mail order catalogues dated Summer 1967, such as Universal, John Moores, Littlewoods, Dorothy Perkins, Woolworths and Walker Reid. AAD/2011/5/3 Sketch book Undated

1 volume Contains sketches and annotations. AAD/2011/5/4 Sketch book Undated

1 item Contains printed outlines of female figures. AAD/2011/5/5 Sketch book Undated

1 item Contains printed outlines of female figures. AAD/2011/5/6 Sketch book Undated

1 item New Yorker note pad metal case, it contains sketches and

annotations. 5

Production and operation papers, ca. 1927 - 1968 Reference: Janko-1-2 Extent: 17 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/5 Index for production costs 1947 - 1949 1 volume, 1 insert Includes prices of fabrics and break-down production costings of

garments, together with sketches and fabric samples. AAD/1998/14/6 M. Marene design book 1966 - 1967

1 volume, 1 insert Includes break-down production costings of garments together

with sketches and fabric samples. AAD/1998/14/7 Laying in of patterns and yardage Undated

1 volume Includes sketches and fabric samples. AAD/1998/14/8 Production sketches Undated

2 items AAD/1998/14/29 M&S contracted numbers, sketches and lays 1962 - 1964 1 folder AAD/1998/14/107 Headed writing paper ca. 1927 - ca. 1930s 1 item AAD/2011/5/7 M. Marene Notebook 1944 - 1945 1 volume, 9 inserts Contains break-down of costs and timing for producing garments, the paper pages are machine typed with sketches and annotations, there are also some loose paper inserts, cut-outs from newspapers, notes on packing costs, garment costings and invoices. AAD/2011/5/8 Notebook ca. 1950

1 volume, 1 insert Contains information on scale of charges and orders, there are sketches and one loose paper insert, the notebook is dated April 1950. AAD/2011/5/9 Notebook Undated

1 volume, 1 insert Contains sketches, production costs and one loose paper insert. AAD/2011/5/10 Notebook Undated

1 volume Contains pattern diagrams showing the lay-in of fabric with

measurements and calculations per yard. AAD/2011/5/11 Notebook 1966

1 volume The front cover of the notebook is titled: Publications, Records,

Circulation Etc. 1966, it contains some notes. AAD/2011/5/12 Notebook Undated

1 volume, 1 insert Contains a list of underwear and children clothing manufacturers

in U.S.A and a loose paper insert.

AAD/2011/5/13 Tax table 21 March 1968

1 envelope (1 item) Contains a table listing taxation costs divided for type and

quantity of garments. AAD/2011/5/14 Children's size charts 9 January 1967

1 envelope (5 items) Contains 5 loose photocopied paper pages, nightdress size chart, pyjama size chart, sleepsuits size chart, children’s slips size chart, teenage and ladies O.T. slips chart. AAD/2011/5/15 Garment measurement tables Undated

1 envelope Contains 13 loose photocopied paper pages on garments

measurements. AAD/2011/5/16 Size specification charts Feb 1958

1 envelope Contains 4 cardboard sheets size specification charts for D.

Department Garments, February 1958. AAD/2011/5/17 Headed writing paper Undated

1 envelope Contains headed paper and compliment slip with name of

lingerie designer and address.

Spondon Fashion Show, 1952 Reference: Janko-1-3 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/9 Preparation for fashion show 1952 1 folder Includes correspondence, production notes, sketches and fabric

samples.

Photographs, ca. 1950s Reference: Janko-1-4 Extent: 4 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/10 Miss Marjorie Janko (Miss Marene) Undated 2 items AAD/1998/14/11 Celanese lingerie designs being modelled Undated 3 items AAD/1998/14/12 Lingerie designs being modelled ca. 1950 - ca. 1952 6 items Photographed by Eugene Vernier Ltd photographers. AAD/1998/14/34 Lingerie designs being modelled Undated

1 item Photographed by Ernst photographic studios.

Celanese catalogues and price lists, 1885 - 1953 Reference: Janko-1-5 Extent: 14 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/13 Celanese underwear price list, Spring range 1929 1 volume, 1 insert AAD/1998/14/14 Celanese underwear price list, Spring range 1929 1 volume AAD/1998/14/15 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list 1933 1 volume, 1 insert Incomplete, with cut-outs. AAD/1998/14/16 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list 1934

1 volume AAD/1998/14/17 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list 1936 1 volume Incomplete, with cut-outs. AAD/1998/14/18 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list 1936

1 volume AAD/1998/14/19 Celanese lingerie, Price list Undated 1 volume AAD/1998/14/20 Celanese lingerie, Price list Undated 1 volume Annotated. AAD/1998/14/21 Celaspun the new wunderwear ca. 1934

1 volume Contains introduction to Celaspun and price list. Annotated. AAD/1998/14/22 Celaspun, the new Autumn and Winter underwear for men, 1934 women and children, Price list 1 volume AAD/1998/14/23 Celanese men's wear, Spring and Summer 1935 1 volume AAD/1998/14/24 Celanese signifies quality, Spring, Price list 1938 1 volume Annotated. AAD/1998/14/25 For every hour Celanese, Press show handout 1938

1 volume AAD/1998/14/30 Catalogue sheets with prices 1885 - 1953 1 volume Includes Celanese catalogues, fabric samples and a Walker Reid Autumn

lingerie promotion catalogue.

Celanese shade books, ca. 1924 - ca. 1966 Reference: Janko-1-6 Extent: 4 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/26 Celanese tricot, shade card and fabric samples 14 June 1924 1 box 8

AAD/1998/14/27 Tricot makes silk extravagant, fabric samples 1924 1 volume AAD/1998/14/28 Knitted and woven fabrics card Undated 1 volume AAD/2011/5/18 Colour forecast for Winter 1966 1966 1 envelope Contains a pamphlet with fabric samples and a 2 page letter issued by Design Department, Marketing Division, Courtaulds Limited,

Celanese House, (British Celanese was bought by Courtaulds in 1961).

Surveys and design reports, 1930 - 1975 Reference: Janko-2 Extent: 74 files

Design sketches, 1930 - ca. 1966 Reference: Janko-2-1 Extent: 8 files

All annotated. Some sketches in this series may have been used in the designers' reports series. Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/31 Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper ca. 1965 1 bundle AAD/1998/14/32 Pencil sketches on paper and carbon copy paper, of 1964 - 1965 department stores' collections including DH Evans, John Lewis, BHS and C&A 1 Bundle Includes draft of Paris show report, October 1964, see also

AAD/1998/14/42. AAD/1998/14/33 Pencil and Carbon copy sketches ca. 1965 - ca. 1966

1 volume AAD/2011/5/19 Ink sketch on paper Undated 1 item Includes a pencil annotation “M 1522” AAD/2011/5/20 Pencil sketches on paper Undated

1 folder Contains 12 pencil sketches,probably used in the designer’s

reports series,some sketches have annotations. AAD/2011/5/21 February Paris 1965 1965

1 folder Includes annotated sketches of Paris shops, exhibitions, shows and textile samples.Some sketches are from Cologne 1964.

AAD/2011/5/22 Designer’s sketches and ideas 1964 1964

1 folder Contains annotated pencil sketches on paper and tracing paper. There are 6 designs on tracing paper with annotations stamped

“Richard Steinweg Studios”, see also AAD/1998/14/87 for tracing paper designs. AAD/2011/5/23 Slip survey, shape and style variations, basic patterns 1930; Undated

1 folder Contains annotated pencil sketches and water colour drawings (46 items), 2 page letter from Walker Reid Limited dated 09

November 1966, 2 water colour designs dated 16 September 1930.

Painted designs, Undated Reference: Janko-2-2 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/35 Watercolour and white oil painted designs with Undated accompanying typed list 1 bundle Apparently not Marjorie Marene's.

Surveys of nightwear and lingerie, ca. 1966 - 1967 Reference: Janko-2-3 Extent: 6 files

Annotated. Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/36 Survey of nightwear and lingerie (including size Aug 1967 - Sept 1967 charts) seen in mail-order catalogues 1 bundle Carbon copy AAD/1998/14/37 Survey of nightwear and lingerie (including size 1967 charts) in mail-order catalogues 1 bundle Carbon copy and pencil sketches. AAD/1998/14/38 Basic shapes for nightdresses July 1966

1 bundle Pencil sketches. AAD/1998/14/39 Briefs and bikinis, including size charts June 1967

1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/40 Undies trimmed with allover-piece lace and narrow Undated lace edgings 1 envelope Includes sizing and fabric requirements. Typescript and

pencil. 10

AAD/1998/14/41 Womens slips Undated 1 envelope Contains: basic slip shapes; variations on basic shapes; slip survey of garments seen in stores, shops, multiples, mail-

order catalogues, trade papers and American periodicals. Carbon copy.

Designers' reports, Sept 1964 - Feb 1967 Reference: Janko-2-4 Extent: 18 files

Contains reports and annotated sketches. Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/24 Survey of shops in London – August 15 Sept 1964 1 folder Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/42 Paris show report October 1964 17 Feb 1965

2 items See also AAD/1998/14/32 for draft. Carbon copy. AAD/2011/5/25 No. 2, Covering Paris show, Cologne, B.N.S. Show 18 Feb 1965 London and Manchester 1 folder Contains carbon copy sketches and a 2 page review on the Paris Show October 1964, see also AAD/1998/14/42 for the same copy of the review. AAD/2011/5/26 No. 3 Paris lingerie show 7 Mar 1965

1 folder Contains carbon copy sketches and a 2 page review on the Paris

annual lingerie show February 1965. AAD/2011/5/27 No. 4, covering London, Birmingham and Liverpool 10 Jun 1965

1 folder Contains carbon copy sketches, there is a carbon copy front note listing what the report is covering, B.N.S. show, stores in London,

Birmingham, Liverpool and referring to the report as No. 3 May 1965, the note is dated 10 June 1965. AAD/2011/5/28 No. 4 B.N.S. Show May 1965 10 Jun 1965

1 folder Contains carbon copy sketches, there is a front note on the report written in pencil listing what the report is covering, B.N.S. show, stores in London, Birmingham, Liverpool. AAD/2011/5/107 No. 5, Covering London, Sheffield, Manchester and 24 Aug 1965 Paris 1 folder Contains carbon copy sketches, the front covering letter has some

pencil annotations with dates for Paris. AAD/2011/5/29 No. 5, Covering London, Sheffield, Manchester 24 Aug 1965

1 folder The front covering letter is dated 24 August 1965, it contains the

Paris report not listed on the front letter cover

AAD/1998/14/43 No.6, Covering Nottingham, Leicester, London and 15 Dec 1965 Cologne Fair. 1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/44 Cologne report 4 Jan 1966

1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/45 No.7, Paris corsetry and lingerie exhibition 3 Mar 1966

1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/46 No.9, Covering Leicester, Stoke, Hanley, Newcastle and Oct 1966 London 1 bundle Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper. AAD/1998/14/47 No.9, Covering Leicester, Stoke, Hanley, Newcastle and Oct 1966 London 1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/48 No.10, Children's wear seen in London shops and stores Nov 1966

1 bundle Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper. AAD/1998/14/49 No.10, Children's wear seen in London shops and stores Nov 1966

1 bundle Carbon copy. AAD/1998/14/50 Paris February 1967 Feb 1967

1 bundle Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper. AAD/2011/5/30 Paris exhibition February 1967 Feb 1967

1 folder Carbon copy. AAD/2011/5/109 Designer’s report sketches, odds 1966 - 1965

1 folder Contains spare copies from the designer's reports and 1 loose

covering letter from a report dated 5 January 1965.

Designs, sketches and patterns, ca. 1964 - ca. 1975 Reference: Janko-2-5 Extent: 35 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/51 Draft designs in pen 1964 - 1967 1 box Pencil and carbon copy. AAD/2011/5/31 Printed paper design pattern Simplicity Undated

1 folder Contains ready-made, printed paper pattern from Simplicity (5613,

Miss, size 16).

AAD/2011/5/32 Printed paper design pattern pleated skirt Undated

1 folder Contains ready-made, printed paper pattern from Women’s

Weekly. AAD/2011/5/33 Printed textile pattern Undated

1 folder Contains ready-made, printed pattern, annotated with felt pen. AAD/2011/5/34 Paper design pattern for long skirt, trouser and blouse 1975

1 folder Contains paper design pattern. the paper pattern for long skirt is

dated 1975. AAD/2011/5/35 E.204, paper design pattern, brushed nightdress Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a sketch of the garment, some annotations and a taped nylon lace sample. AAD/2011/5/36 E.257, paper design pattern, brief Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and a letter with correction notes. AAD/2011/5/37 W.371, paper design pattern, double nightdress Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a sketch of the garment, some annotations and a taped nylon lace sample. AAD/2011/5/38 W.381, paper design pattern, slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and annotations, on the front side of the

envelope there is a sketch of the garment. AAD/2011/5/39 S.893, paper design pattern, R. N. slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and annotations. AAD/2011/5/40 S.898, paper design pattern, B.N.S. XOS. 48 Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and annotations. AAD/2011/5/41 C.16, paper design pattern, OT. slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch of the garment and annotations. AAD/2011/5/42 C.18, C.32, paper design pattern, OT. slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and fabric sample, on the front side of the

envelope there is a sketch of the garment and annotations. AAD/2011/5/43 R.67, paper design pattern, childs slip, age from 1 to 11 Undated Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch of the garment and annotations. AAD/2011/5/44 Paper design pattern Leotard Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a sketch of the garment, it contains 1 machine typed letter describing

the garment, sketches and pattern diagram showing the lay-in of fabric.

AAD/2011/5/45 Blocks paper OT. slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there are

sketches of the garment and annotations. AAD/2011/5/46 Junior slip blocks Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there are

sketches of the garment and annotations. AAD/2011/5/47 Nightdress bodice blocks Undated

1 envelope Contains paper and fabric patterns and annotations. AAD/2011/5/48 Paper design pattern Jersey slip block two piece back Feb 1960 and rounded bra 1 envelope Contains paper patterns, printed on the front side of the envelope

Marks and Spencer LTD and dated February 1960 AAD/2011/5/49 Paper design pattern blouse Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and annotations, the envelope is dated 6 August 1981, the paper pattern for the blouse are from an earlier date. AAD/2011/5/50 Paper design pattern, trapeze group, waltz gown, Undated peignoir, shift gown, baby doll 1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there are

sketches of the garments and some annotations. AAD/2011/5/51 Paper design pattern, contour slip with lace cups Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and a fabric garment cut from pattern, sample from New York, on the front side of the envelope there is a sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/52 Paper design pattern, one piece chemise, jersey and lace Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/53 Paper design pattern, one piece chemise, satin Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/54 Paper design pattern, slim petticoats Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there are

sketches and annotations. AAD/2011/5/55 Paper design pattern, utility gown of tricot Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/56 Paper design pattern, Swiss Miss, New Yorker Range, Undated waltz gown and neg. coat 1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there are

sketches and annotations.

AAD/2011/5/57 Paper design pattern, Swiss Miss, New Yorker Range, Undated baby doll, shift gown, toreador pyjama 1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/58 Paper design pattern, long gown, children size Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/59 Paper design pattern, chemise sleep wear Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, on the front side of the envelope there is a

sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/60 Paper design pattern trapeze slip Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns and fabric, on the front side of the envelope

there is a sketch and annotations. AAD/2011/5/61 Paper design pattern, odd patterns Undated

1 envelope Contains paper patterns, synthetic fabric patterns and a letter dated

31 December 1968. AAD/2011/5/62 Practical women’s magic dress pattern maker Undated

1 envelope Contains a cardboard pattern maker, instructions booklet and a

diagram of the pattern. AAD/2011/5/67 Le Roy Pattern, 2159 Undated

1 envelope Contains paper pattern and instructions for loose cover for fireside

chair. AAD/2011/5/68 Paper pattern- Cindy Doll dress Undated

1 envelope Contains a bundle of paper patterns and instructions for making

Cindy Doll dress.

Sizing surveys, ca. 1961 - ca. 1967 Reference: Janko-2-6 Extent: 5 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/52 Chain store basic chart of size designations and 1962 - 1963 specifications from Littlewoods and Dorothy Perkins 1 bundle AAD/2011/5/63 Chain store basic chart of size designations and ca. 1961 - ca.1967 specifications 1 folder Contains machine typed papers and pencil annotations, documents from lace suppliers and size chart specifications from

Dorothy Perkins LTD, Marks & Spencer LTD, Littlewoods, Voguewear, Gossard, B.H.S. and Walker Reid.

AAD/1998/14/53 British Home Stores minimum finished garment Undated measurements 1 bundle AAD/1998/14/54 Marks and Spencer size specification Sept 1962 1 bundle AAD/1998/14/55 Stripping schedule for various outlets May 1963 1 bundle

Study of other designers, Undated Reference: Janko-2-7 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/56 Draft account of operations within a design room Undated 3 items

Publications, lectures and written material, 1943 - ca. 1960s Reference: Janko-3 Extent: 22 files

Articles, Dec 1943 - Dec 1951 Reference: Janko-3-1 Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/57 'Production of lingerie' by MM, published in The Aug 1948 - Dec Maker-up 1951 1 envelope AAD/1998/14/58 'Lingerie Review' by MM, published in The Maker-up Dec 1943 - Dec

1 bundle 1947 Includes fabric samples.

Lectures, ca. 1960s Reference: Janko-3-2 Extent: 4 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/59 Lecture notes - M. Marene 1966 - 1967 1 folder Includes typed and handwritten scripts, letters and patterns. AAD/1998/14/60 Slips MM ca. 1960s

1 folder Typed annotated scripts.

AAD/1998/14/61 Careers - lingerie designers for the wholesale and store Undated trade, Typed annotated script. 9 items AAD/2011/5/64 Careers - lingerie designers for the wholesale and store 1966 trade 1 envelope (2 items) Contains three pages, machine typed, presentation given to a public event about career and an informative leaflet issued by the Clothing

Institute about careers in the trade where Marjorie Marene gave a talk on 8 June 1966.

Displays, ca. 1950 - ca. 1960s Reference: Janko-3-3 Extent: 6 files

Thought to have been used in lectures. Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/62 Basic charts - slips ca. 1967 1 roll Drawn in pen and pencil. AAD/1998/14/63 What next, Gussie? and Petti-tights 24 June 1950 -

1 envelope (1 item) 20 Feb 1959 Cut out and pasted onto a board. AAD/1998/14/64 Negative prints of designs ca. 1951

1 envelope (25 items) AAD/1998/14/65 Prints of designs, from 1400 onwards ca. 1951 1 roll (51 items) AAD/1998/14/66 Negative prints of patterns, lays and designs, from 1885 ca. 1960s onwards 1 envelope (11 items) AAD/1998/14/67 Prints of patterns, lays and designs, from 1885 onwards ca. 1960s 1 roll (21 items)

Display indicators, ca. 1960s Reference: Janko-3-4 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/68 Cards with garment names and dates written in ink ca. 1960s 1 envelope Covering period 1940 to 1959.

Production of modern lingerie book - unpublished, ca. 1951 Reference: Janko-3-5 Extent: 3 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/70 Production of Modern Lingerie by M.Marene F.C.I. ca. 1951 1 volume. 1 insert of British Standard for lingerie. Draft with annotations. Includes prints and pencil sketches. Includes

cut-outs from The Maker-up. AAD/1998/14/69 Production of Modern Lingerie by M.Marene F.C.I. 1951

1 volume Completed but with annotations. Typed, with ink and pencil

illustrations. Includes patterns from The Maker-up. AAD/2011/5/65 Historical review 1800-1950 Undated

1 volume, 13 inserts Book draft, machine typed, with corrections, divided in chapters,it contains 10 negative and 3 positive loose prints of underwear designs

from catalogues Arm and Navy, Selfridges’s, Peter Robinson LTD, probably the prints were going to be used for the book.

Sketches, ca. 1951 Reference: Janko-3-6 Extent: 2 files

Possibly used in M.Marene's Production of modern lingerie book. Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/71 Prints of sketches ca. 1951 2 items AAD/1998/14/72 Ink and pencil sketches ca. 1951 1 item See also AAD/1998/14/69 and 70.

Correspondence concerning M.Marene's Production of modern lingerie book, ca.

1951 Reference: Janko-3-7 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/73 Letter from The Maker-upadvertising M.Marene's book ca. 1951 Production of modern lingerie 1 item

Catalogues of prints, ca. 1960s Reference: Janko-3-8 Extent: 3 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/74 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1914-1959 ca. 1960s 1 volume Cut out and stuck onto boards. AAD/1998/14/75 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1400-1962 ca. 1960s

1 volume Cut out and stuck onto boards. AAD/1998/14/76 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1800-1959 ca. 1960s

1 volume. 9 inserts Cut out and stuck onto boards.

Reference material, 1896 - 1974 Reference: Janko-4 Extent: 51 files

Advertising, 1954 - May 1966 Reference: Janko-4-1 Extent: 4 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/77 Lingerie ad-clip review 10 Aug 1962 -

1 bundle 20 May 1966 5 editions with cut-outs. AAD/1998/14/78 Lingerie ad-clip review 1954 - 20 May

1 envelope 1966 Cut-outs. AAD/2011/5/66 Knitting toys, jackets and tea cosies Undated

1 envelope Contains a magazine article from Woman’s Weekly about knitting toys,various pamphlets with instructions on how to knit tea cosies

and jackets in wool and a magazine article on how to make an apron for children. AAD/2011/5/69 Dickins and Jones bathing and beach wear Undated

1 envelope Contains Dickins and Jones pamphlet on bathing and beach wear, a loose page from a French catalogue about lingerie, loose pages

from summer sale catalogue B. B. Evans & Co. LTD and Robinson and Cleaver LTD.

Newspapers, Jan 1950 - Oct 1959 Reference: Janko-4-2 Extent: 5 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/79 Women's Wear Daily, Spring lingerie negligees 29 June 1950 - 6 Jan

1 volume 1955 A mixture of editions, cut and pasted together. AAD/1998/14/80 Women's Wear Daily 30 Aug 1951 - 10 Jan

1 bundle 1952 Loose pages. AAD/1998/14/81 1900 Turn of the Century 1950, the story of fifty Jan 1950 tremendous years 1 volume A Daily Mail publication. AAD/1998/14/82 A Firm Foundation 11 Oct 1959

1 item Newspaper article about lingerie, cut out and pasted onto a board. AAD/1998/14/83 Bygone style 27 Nov 1950

1 item Newspaper article about children's fashion.

Scrapbooks, 1900 - ca. 1955 Reference: Janko-4-3 Extent: 3 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/84 Scrapbook ca. 1933 - ca. 1937 1 volume, 13 inserts Annotated.Contains newspaper articles about the history of lingerie, pages from catalogues, sketches in pencil on paper and tracing paper. AAD/1998/14/85 Scrapbook ca. 1949 - ca. 1951

1 volume, 22 inserts Contains newspaper articles, pencil sketches on pattern

paper, cut-outs from catalogues. AAD/1998/14/86 Scrapbook 1900 - ca. 1955

1 volume Contains newspaper articles, pages from Women's Wear Daily, cut-outs from catalogues and magazines. All contents loose.

Other designers, Undated Reference: Janko-4-4 Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/87 Designs from New York shows and stores, stamped Undated 'Richard Steinweg Studios New York' 1 bundle Sketched in pencil and watercolours on tracing paper, with

annotations. AAD/1998/14/88 Clothes designs, fabric on cardboard Undated

6 items

Fabric samples, Undated Reference: Janko-4-5 Extent: 6 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/89 Walker Reid, Book of nylon fabric samples Undated 1 volume AAD/2011/5/70 Douglas Gill LTD Undated 1 volume Contains nylon lace samples, some samples are missing. AAD/2011/5/71 Jersey – Kapwood LTD, Nottingham Undated

1 volume Contains nylon laces samples, some samples are missing. AAD/2011/5/72 Jersey – Kapwood LTD, Nottingham Undated

1 volume Contains nylon laces samples, some samples are loose, samples are

from various companies. AAD/2011/5/73 Guy Burkin LTD, Nottingham Undated

1 volume Contains nylon laces samples, samples are from various companies. AAD/2011/5/74 Lace Charmaine - Simon May and Co. LTD, Undated Nottingham 1 volume Contains nylon laces samples, some samples are loose.

Advertising photographs, Undated Reference: Janko-4-6 Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/90 Consortium paris-lingerie, Photograph of lingerie Undated modelling 1 item AAD/2011/5/108 British Celanese Limited Fashion Show Undated 1 item

Reports, 1961 Reference: Janko-4-7 Extent: 1 file Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/91 Placement report of the Fashion Institute of 9 June 1961 Technology's class of 1961, Employment of graduates 1 volume Taken from folder AAD/1998/14/29.

Publications and brochures, 1896 - 1974 Reference: Janko-4-8 Extent: 28 files Reference Description Dates AAD/1998/14/92 Isobel's Home Notes, double Autumn number 3 Oct 1896 1 volume, 1 insert AAD/1998/14/93 Fashion exhibition, New Hall Olympia London W14 5 Sept 1927 - 16

1 volume, 204 inserts Sept 1927 AAD/1998/14/94 Van Raalte, Lingerie brochure for women and children 1933 1 volume Includes fabric samples. AAD/2011/5/75 Dressmaking designing cutting and fitting by Mme. ca. 1933 Jeanne Trois Fontaines 1 volume Printed by Balding and Mansell AAD/1998/14/95 Folies Bergere, La Folie d'Amour, Programme 1936

1 volume AAD/1998/14/96 Apparel arts fifth anniversary issue, vol vii, no.1a. A 1936 history of clothing. 1 volume Includes advertisements. AAD/2011/5/76 Children’s body measurements for sizing garments and Sept 1939 pattern 1 volume The manual was published by U.S Department of Agriculture

Miscellaneous Publication No. 365. 22

AAD/2011/5/77 Pattern drafting and dress designs by Albert Friedmann 1939

1 volume Published by Pitman Publishing Corporation. AAD/2011/5/78 D. H. Evans first catalogue for 1940 1940

1 envelope Contains D. H. Evans catalogue, one image of a drawing from the

catalogue has been cut out from the page. AAD/1998/14/97 British Standard size fittings for women's and children's Sept 1950 clothing, Buyer's guide 1 volume. 2 inserts AAD/2011/5/79 British Standards 1445: 1951 Infants’ and girls’ underwear 1951 and nightwear 1 volume, 2 inserts Contains 2 loose pages of pencil annotations. AAD/1998/14/98 British Standard 1338:1952 Lingerie 13 Mar 1952

1 volume AAD/2011/5/80 British Standards 1903:1952 Glossary of terms used by the 1952 light clothing industry 1 volume Contains pencil annotations. AAD/1998/14/99 Style reports, volume xxiii, no.7 Sept 1953

1 volume AAD/2011/5/81 Fashion drawings by Frances Neady 1958 1 volume Published by Pitman Publishing Corporation. AAD/1998/14/100 Learning about lace, bobbin net and embroidery ca. Oct 1962

1 volume AAD/1998/14/101 Learning about lace ca. 1962 1 volume, 1 insert AAD/2011/5/82 British Standards 3728:1964 Recommendations on size 1964 marking for infants’ and girls’ wear 1 volume AAD/1998/14/102 Scanlace Spring symphony, Mannequin show 1966 1966 1 volume Annotated. AAD/2011/5/83 Scanlace, Mannequin show 1967 1967

1 volume AAD/1998/14/103 The Clothing Institute, yearbook and membership register 1974 1974 1 volume AAD/1998/14/104 Lingerie, les cahiers du jardin des modes, 5 annee, no.43 Undated 1 volume. 1 insert AAD/1998/14/105 Man-sew, machines and attachments, Sewing machine Undated brochure 1 volume. 1 insert AAD/1998/14/106 Invitation, programme and list of recipients for Courtaulds Undated long service award 1 file

AAD/2011/5/84 Pattern drafting children’s garment design, by M. Rohr Undated 1 volume The manual was printed in U.S.A. AAD/2011/5/85 Vinora ladies’ underwear catalogue Undated

1 envelope Contains a catalogue from a German company. AAD/2011/5/86 Apparel engineering and needle trades handbook Undated

1 volume Published by Kogos International Corp. New York. AAD/2011/5/87 The art for all, figure faces and expressions Undated

1 volume Published by Pitman’s art publications.

Career and business papers, 1934 - 1971 Reference: Janko-5 Extent: 13 files

Employment contracts, 1934 - 1950, Reference: Janko-5-1 Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/88 British Celanes Limited 28 Feb 1934 1 envelope Contains Marene employment contract entered with British

Celanese Limited. AAD/2011/5/89 British Celanese Limited service agreement 25 July 1950

1 envelope Contains a signed service contract entered by Marjorie Janko with

British Celanese.

Certificates, 1940 - 1950 Reference: Janko-5-2 Extent: 3 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/90 National Register of Industrial Art Designs Jan 1940 1 envelope Contains a certificate awareded to Marjorie Marene when she

registered as a qualified designer for Industry. AAD/2011/5/91 The Clothing Institute 3 Jun 1950

1 item Certificate awarded to Marjorie Marene when elected Fellow of the

Clothing Institute.

AAD/2011/5/92 London County Council – Trade School for Girls Undated

1 envelope Contains a certificate issued by London County School to Marjorie Janko for attending evening classes in Theory and Practice of Face Massage.

Correspondence, 1950 - 1971 Reference: Janko-5-3 Extent: 4 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/100 Lightfoot and Smith, accountants, Nottingham 6 Feb 1934 1 envelope Contains invoice letter issued by Lightfoot and Smith for forming

and incorporating the Marene Limited Company. AAD/2011/5/93 British Celanese Limited, reference letter 26 June 1950

1 envelope Contains a machine typed letter of recommendation for Miss

Marjorie Marene by the employer British Celanese Limited. AAD/2011/5/94 The Clothing Institute, fellowship letter 3 June 1950

1 envelope Contains a congratulation letter from the Clothing Institute to

Marjorie Marene about the awarded Fellowship. AAD/2011/5/95 Walker Reid Limited letter 8 Nov 1971

1 envelope Contains a letter about reimbursement of expenses for covering the

Walker Reid Design Award.

Memorandum and Articles of Association, 1933 Reference: Janko-5-4 Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/96 Marene Limited, memorandum and articles of 9 Aug 1933 association under 1929 Act, company limited by shares 1 volume, 1 insert Contains an envelope with a cheque. AAD/2011/5/97 Marene Limited, memorandum and articles of 9 Aug 1933 association under 1929 Act, company limited by shares 1 volume

Shares certificates, 1933 Reference: Janko-5-5

Extent: 2 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/98 Share certificate Marene Limited 30 Dec1933 1 envelope Contains a share certificate and a signed contract letter for the

share. AAD/2011/5/99 Share certificate Marene Limited 30 Dec1933

1 envelope Contains a share certificate and a signed contract letter for the

share.

Personal items, Undated, Reference: Janko-6 Extent: 6 files Reference Description Dates AAD/2011/5/101 Greetings cards Undated 1 envelope Contains 3 greeting cards given to Marjorie Marene on her

retirement by colleagues, one card is from Walker Reid employees. AAD/2011/5/102 Map of Vienna Undated

1 item The map advertises a lingerie company named Rositta. AAD/2011/5/103 Restaurant Menu Undated

1 item The paper menu is from a French restaurant and it holds signatures,

probably a reminder of a special event. AAD/2011/5/104 Painted plaster portrait of woman Undated

1 object AAD/2011/5/105 Plaster portrait of woman Undated 1 object AAD/2011/5/106 Plaster portrait of woman, profile Undated 1 object`