allllll"llllllllllllllllllll'llll" 1111 mmwm""llll"ullll"llll.,mmmm•!DI"'illl"'ll'llllmmwm""llllmllll"'llllwmmm"'llll""llll"'llllmmmmmm""llll"'llllmmml" ll"!l!:'"llll'llll"'llllmllll"'lll""llllmllllmmmmmmm'IIE"'IIII"'IIIImmmm:mllllm'll'llllmmwmmllll"lillllmllll"'llll"'llll"'mm1111""1111mmmmmmmmm•llllmllllmlll" •1!1a July, 1925 Bulletin No. 200-A -iliiiii!ll!iiii!!illii!!iii-ii!!hiiiiili!iiliiiiiiii!i- UNDERGARMENTS SIMPLE AND SUIT ABLE TYPES By BLANCHE E. HYDE mrmif'iii''""'""''''"""IIDIID"'''menntilliilitiiil• COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE EXTENSION SERVICE FORT COLLINS 121 II El E. liflihiihhiiilhhi!ililflhiliiifhlliiiiffliiiiifiil """""" fiiiil!iiihl!i!ii!!iftiliiffi!iiiiilhflii '"'"'""" Ulflhihliiiill!iiiiiii!ieliilihiliiiJ """ mpmnhhiliiiliililiiliiJIJI FOR USE IN EXTENSION WORK UNDERGARMENTS SIMPLE AND SUIT ABLE TYPES By BLANCHE E. HYDE, Clothing Specialist Articles of underwear change in name, style, material and points of construction almost as often as outside clothing. In fact these changes in underwear are often made necessary by the cut and general style of the outside garment. The articles listed in this bulletin are those which, in one form or another, and sometimes under different names, are almost universally used. The suggestions given as to methods of making these garments will carry over into other garments similar in style and materials. Detailed directions as to the methods of making suggested for these garments will be found in the Sewing Handbook. COST OF UNDERWEAR There is always a great difference of opinion as to which is the better economy, to purchase underwear ready-made, or to buy the materials and construct it at home. From a standpoint of actual cash expenditure, if the same quality of materials is used, one can generally make underwear for from about half to two-thirds the cost of the ready-made. When making underwear at home, however, the tendency is to use a better quality of materials and trimmings, hence the feeling that the ready-made is cheaper. From the standpoint of durability a home-made garment will gen­ erally outwear a ready-made one of the same money value, but when time is an important factor, and the woman or girl is responsible for many other home duties besides the family sewing, it may be a better plan for her to spend her energies or her free time in other ways than sewing. MATERIALS FOR UNDERWEAR Qualities.- Material from which an undergarment is to be made should be soft and smooth, as fine a quality as one can afford, easy to launder, and reasonably durable considering the quality of the goods and the price paid. Color.-White or some delicate color should be used in prefer­ ence to strong or brilliant shades. Materials in favor for undergar­ garments include : Cotton: Nainsook which is sold under many trade names. Langeloth also sold under many trade names Crepe or Ripplette. Domestic, muslin, or cotton cloth. These names vary according to the locality. 4 CoLORADo AGRICULTURAL CoLL~G~ Flour sack material. Satine or satinette. Silk: Jersey Crepe de Chine China Silk Pussy Willow Wash Satin Ravon. Taffeta, messaline and ordinary satin are used for petticoats. Linen is not used to any great extent for undergarments. TRIMMINGS FOR UNDERWEAR Undergarments of good quality materials, satisfactory in cut and workmanship, have a certain style of their own and do not need elabor­ ate trimming. At the present time very little trimming is used, the styles of undergarments being somewhat tailored. \Vhen trimmings are used they should correspond to the quality of the material with which they are to be combined. A little hand work will often give a sufficient touch of beauty to an otherwise extremely plain garment. Suggestions for some of the simple decorative stitches will be found in the Sewing Handbook Trimmings purchased by the yard are of two types: ( 1) Lace, either edge or insertion; and (2) Embroidery, either edge or insertion. Lace, on account of its finished edge, has come to be much more generally used than embroidery. Lace of a good quality should be used, as it is economy in the end to purchase such. The type known as Valenciennes, or "Val," is the most common type, and the heavier variety or the round mesh launders much better than the French or diamond mesh which seems to draw up in wash­ ing, and requires careful stretching and pulling to show the pattern. lVIany laces come with an edge and insertion to match. Frequently a lace beading or running for ribbon is woven onto the edge, or between an edge and insertion, but many of these lace beadings do not wear well, hence are not used as much as formerly. Lact: is used on both cotton and silk materials, but both design and quality of lace should be chosen with due regard to the material on which it is to be used. A finer quality and more elaborate pattern are sometimes permissible on silk undergarments but not on cotton. Embroidered edges and insertions of good quality give splendid wear but require much more labor in attaching to the garment than a lace edge or insertion and in good grades are more expensive. Directions for applying trimmings to underwear are given in the Sewing Handbook. UNDERGARMENTS 5 RIBBON AND LINGERIE TAPE Where ribbon is used in undergarments a good quality of wash ribbon is more economical in the end, but lingerie tape has in a great measure superseded the use of silk ribbon. Lingerie tape comes in white and light colors, and both plain and figured. Some of the better grades of lingerie tape are woven in the same patterns as wash ribbon. A lingerie tape of a soft weave and finish is better than one with corded edges, as the latter type is apt to tear the beading. UNDERGARMENTS Of the garments classed as undergarments or lingerie, the fol­ lowing types have been selected as suitable for problems in club work, as well as for ordinary wear. Undervest Corselette Chemise, plain and envelope Petticoat Combination or "Step-in" Slip Bloomers Night gown Drawers Pajamas Underwaist Negligee Brassiere Boudoir cap UNDERVEST This garment is so simple that if nec·essary it may be made with­ out a_ pattern. If a straight type is desired, that is a straight piece of material not shaped in at the under arms, and straight across the top, unless the garment is to be made of Jersey which will stretch to the figure, the chief point to be considered is the width, for the undervest extends to, or below, the hip line, ,.LJ.;¢!::::::::;;:::::::::;==;:::::U;~ and the garment must be wide enough to permit the person to sit. In ordinary yard goods this sometimes makes the garment too full around the top, but in such a case the fullness may be held in by small tucks or by a ribbon draw-string. Materials.- Silk Jersey, which comes in the form of tubing, is one of the best materials for an undervest, but in the good grades is expensive. Wash satin and crepe de Chine are also very satisfactory materials. Nainsook in a good quality is one of the best wearing materials for an undervest, as in the ~ good grades it is soft and smooth, and launders well ; moreover, it is less expensive and more Undervest durable than the silk materials. Old undergarments of knitted material may be cut down very satisfactorily into children's undervests and union suits. 6 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE Making and Finishing Undervest.-Cut according to pattern, or straight according to the size of person. As this garment is worn directly next to the skin the seams should be finished so that they will be flat and smooth. In undergarments for young children, the seams are sometimes made and finished on the out­ side of the garment in order not to chafe the delicate skin. If one or more seams are used in the undergarment, finish with a French seam or a flat fell; a seam sewed by hand will be much softer than one sewed by machine. The lower edge is generally finished with a plain hem, sewed by hand or machine. If the garment is of Jersey or a very soft silk, a hand-hemmed finish will "give" much more than a machine-stitched one. If the garn1ent is to be finished straight across the top, a hem % inch to 1 inch in width should be made at the top, finished by hand or machine. A row of fine feather-stitching is an attractive finish. A casing for the ribbon should be made in this hem by a second line of sewing parallel with the first line and allowing for the width of the ribbon between. When sewing on shoulder straps, be sure that they are sewed near enough to the front so they will not slip off. They should be sewed on first at the bottom of the casing. Turn under the edge and hem to position, holding the ribbon flat and at right angles to the casing. Sew again just above the casing making sure that the sewing does not interfere with the free passage of ribbon through the casing. When the top of the undervest is curved the edge may be finished by a narrow hem, a rolled edge, a facing or a binding, and the arm's eye in a like manner, with or without trimming. CHEMISE This garment is somewhat similar in appearance and shape to the undervest, but on examination the pattern will be found to be not only longer, but slightly looser in cut and shape under the arms. Very often too, a chemnse pattern has a pleat to give extra fullness cut in at the waist line in the back.