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Home , Chemise, Lingerie tape, Negligee, Open drawers, Slip (clothing)

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UNDERGARMENTS SIMPLE AND ABLE TYPES

By BLANCHE E. HYDE

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COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

EXTENSION SERVICE

FORT COLLINS

121 II El E. liflihiihhiiilhhi!ililflhiliiifhlliiiiffliiiiifiil """""" fiiiil!iiihl!i!ii!!iftiliiffi!iiiiilhflii '"'"'""" Ulflhihliiiill!iiiiiii!ieliilihiliiiJ """ mpmnhhiliiiliililiiliiJIJI FOR USE IN EXTENSION WORK SIMPLE AND SUIT ABLE TYPES By BLANCHE E. HYDE, Specialist

Articles of underwear change in name, style, material and points of construction almost as often as outside clothing. In fact these changes in underwear are often made necessary by the cut and general style of the outside garment. The articles listed in this bulletin are those which, in one form or another, and sometimes under different names, are almost universally used. The suggestions given as to methods of making these garments will carry over into other garments similar in style and materials. Detailed directions as to the methods of making suggested for these garments will be found in the Sewing Handbook.

COST OF UNDERWEAR There is always a great difference of opinion as to which is the better economy, to purchase underwear ready-made, or to buy the materials and construct it at home. From a standpoint of actual cash expenditure, if the same quality of materials is used, one can generally make underwear for from about half to two-thirds the cost of the ready-made. When making underwear at home, however, the tendency is to use a better quality of materials and trimmings, hence the feeling that the ready-made is cheaper. From the standpoint of durability a home-made garment will gen­ erally outwear a ready-made one of the same money value, but when time is an important factor, and the woman or girl is responsible for many other home duties besides the family sewing, it may be a better plan for her to spend her energies or her free time in other ways than sewing. MATERIALS FOR UNDERWEAR Qualities.- Material from which an is to be made should be soft and smooth, as fine a quality as one can afford, easy to launder, and reasonably durable considering the quality of the goods and the price paid. Color.-White or some delicate color should be used in prefer­ ence to strong or brilliant shades. Materials in favor for undergar­ garments include : : Nainsook which is sold under many trade names. Langeloth also sold under many trade names Crepe or Ripplette. Domestic, muslin, or cotton cloth. These names vary according to the locality. 4 CoLORADo AGRICULTURAL CoLL~G~

Flour sack material. Satine or satinette. : Crepe de Chine China Silk Pussy Willow Wash Ravon. Taffeta, messaline and ordinary satin are used for . is not used to any great extent for undergarments.

TRIMMINGS FOR UNDERWEAR Undergarments of good quality materials, satisfactory in cut and workmanship, have a certain style of their own and do not need elabor­ ate trimming. At the present time very little trimming is used, the styles of undergarments being somewhat tailored. \Vhen trimmings are used they should correspond to the quality of the material with which they are to be combined. A little hand work will often give a sufficient touch of beauty to an otherwise extremely plain garment. Suggestions for some of the simple decorative stitches will be found in the Sewing Handbook Trimmings purchased by the yard are of two types: ( 1) Lace, either edge or insertion; and (2) Embroidery, either edge or insertion. Lace, on account of its finished edge, has come to be much more generally used than embroidery. Lace of a good quality should be used, as it is economy in the end to purchase such. The type known as Valenciennes, or "Val," is the most common type, and the heavier variety or the round mesh launders much better than the French or diamond mesh which seems to draw up in wash­ ing, and requires careful stretching and pulling to show the pattern. lVIany laces come with an edge and insertion to match. Frequently a lace beading or running for ribbon is woven onto the edge, or between an edge and insertion, but many of these lace beadings do not wear well, hence are not used as much as formerly. Lact: is used on both cotton and silk materials, but both design and quality of lace should be chosen with due regard to the material on which it is to be used. A finer quality and more elaborate pattern are sometimes permissible on silk undergarments but not on cotton. Embroidered edges and insertions of good quality give splendid wear but require much more labor in attaching to the garment than a lace edge or insertion and in good grades are more expensive. Directions for applying trimmings to underwear are given in the Sewing Handbook. UNDERGARMENTS 5

RIBBON AND TAPE Where ribbon is used in undergarments a good quality of wash ribbon is more economical in the end, but has in a great measure superseded the use of silk ribbon. Lingerie tape comes in white and light colors, and both plain and figured. Some of the better grades of lingerie tape are woven in the same patterns as wash ribbon. A lingerie tape of a soft weave and finish is better than one with corded edges, as the latter type is apt to tear the beading. UNDERGARMENTS Of the garments classed as undergarments or lingerie, the fol­ lowing types have been selected as suitable for problems in club work, as well as for ordinary wear. Undervest Corselette , plain and envelope Combination or "Step-in" Bloomers Night Drawers Underwaist Brassiere Boudoir UNDERVEST This garment is so simple that if nec·essary it may be made with­ out a_ pattern. If a straight type is desired, that is a straight piece of material not shaped in at the under arms, and straight across the , unless the garment is to be made of Jersey which will stretch to the figure, the chief point to be considered is the width, for the undervest extends to, or below, the hip line, ,.LJ.;¢!::::::::;;:::::::::;==;:::::U;~ and the garment must be wide enough to permit the person to sit. In ordinary yard goods this sometimes makes the garment too full around the top, but in such a case the fullness may be held in by small tucks or by a ribbon draw-string. Materials.- Silk Jersey, which comes in the form of tubing, is one of the best materials for an undervest, but in the good grades is expensive. Wash satin and crepe de Chine are also very satisfactory materials. Nainsook in a good quality is one of the best wearing materials for an undervest, as in the ~ good grades it is soft and smooth, and launders well ; moreover, it is less expensive and more Undervest durable than the silk materials. Old undergarments of knitted material may be cut down very satisfactorily into children's undervests and union . 6 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

Making and Finishing Undervest.-Cut according to pattern, or straight according to the size of person. As this garment is worn directly next to the skin the seams should be finished so that they will be flat and smooth. In undergarments for young children, the seams are sometimes made and finished on the out­ side of the garment in order not to chafe the delicate skin. If one or more seams are used in the undergarment, finish with a French seam or a flat fell; a seam sewed by hand will be much softer than one sewed by machine. The lower edge is generally finished with a plain hem, sewed by hand or machine. If the garment is of Jersey or a very soft silk, a hand-hemmed finish will "give" much more than a machine-stitched one. If the garn1ent is to be finished straight across the top, a hem % inch to 1 inch in width should be made at the top, finished by hand or machine. A row of fine feather-stitching is an attractive finish. A casing for the ribbon should be made in this hem by a second line of sewing parallel with the first line and allowing for the width of the ribbon between. When sewing on shoulder straps, be sure that they are sewed near enough to the front so they will not slip off. They should be sewed on first at the bottom of the casing. Turn under the edge and hem to position, holding the ribbon flat and at right angles to the casing. Sew again just above the casing making sure that the sewing does not interfere with the free passage of ribbon through the casing. When the top of the undervest is curved the edge may be finished by a narrow hem, a rolled edge, a facing or a binding, and the arm's eye in a like manner, with or without trimming.

CHEMISE This garment is somewhat similar in appearance and shape to the undervest, but on examination the pattern will be found to be not only longer, but slightly looser in cut and shape under the arms. Very often too, a chemnse pattern has a to give extra fullness cut in at the line in the back. A chemise, as such, is rarely worn at the present time, but many of the slips closely resemble the old-time chemise. Materials.-The materials most favored for a chemise are nain­ sook and crepe de Chine in white or light colors. Two types of patterns are used for , those with the back cut on a fold, and those with a seam and the extra pleat of fullness inserted at the waistline. When worn with thin the seam in the back is apt to show through. Trimmings if used at all should be very simple. Making.- As the garment is generally made of a thin, soft material, and to fit rather loosely, French seams are used. The finish of the neck depends on the pattern and the kind of trimming decided upon. If the garment is cut straight across, necessitating shoulder straps, these should be of lingerie tape about one inch in width. The UNDERGARMENTS 7

method of sewing the lingerie tape to the garment will be determined by the kind of trimming, and whether a draw-string is used at the top. If a draw-string is necessary the ends of the shoulder straps should be hemmed to the garment, just below the casing for the draw string. THE ENVELOPE CHEMISE This is similar in style and materials to the plain chemise, except for an extension of the back section at the center of the lower edge. This extension buttons onto the hem at the low­ er edge of the front sec­ tion. The garment thus answers the purpose of a combination garment, or undervest and draw­ ers or bloomers. Making.-The di­ rections given for the making of a chemise will serve for the envelope chemise also. The ex­ tension may be cut onto the back section in one piece, or it m a y b e seamed o n. In either case it is generally made Envelope Chemise double, that is, faced back to strengthen the part where the buttons are to be sewed on. Use a shaped facing, put on from the right side and stifched and turned. The facing is hemmed down either over the seam, if the extension has been cut separately and seamed on, or even with the hem on the lower edge of the back. In wearing, this extension is held in posi­ tion by buttons and buttonholes. The button­ Envelope Chemise holes are cut at right angles to the edge of the hem, in the front section. The finish at the neck is similar to a chemise.

COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT OR "STEP-IN" Materials.-The same as for undervest or chemise. Making.- The methods of making and finishing are similar to those used in a chemise. This undergarment may be cut in different ways. One type of pattern is somewhat similar in appearance to the envelope chemise with a short extension cut on at the bottom of both 8 CoLORADO AGRICu.L;fURAL COLLEGE

front and back. Frequently the pattern directions call for the placing of the end of this extension on a crosswise fold of the goods. This garment is generally curved up at the sides and finished at the lower edges with a narrow hem with or without a trimming of lace. Directions for applying lace either before or after the edge is hemmed will be found in the Sewing Handbook. For convenience in "stepping in," the top of the garment is generally finished straight across with shoulder straps. The illustration shows a step-in fin­ ished with a plain band at the top. Feather­ stitching is the only decoration and a row of featherstitching makes the casing. Machine hemstitching makes an at- \I tractive finish on an undergarment of this I type. The top of a garment like this may be finished with shaped straps of the material cut onto both front and back and buttoning on the shoulders, or with straps of lingerie tape. Still another type of "step-in" or combination undergarment has practically no extension at the bottom but is curved down from about the waist line almost in Combination Undergarment a semi-circle, and the front and back or "SteP-in" joined in a short seam at the center bot- tom.

BLOOMERS These garments have in a large measure done away with the wear- ing of drawers. There are several distinct types of bloomers, among which are: 1. The slightly full, used for general wear by girls and women. 2. Those cut circular with no fullness about the hips. 3· The pleated or gymnasium type of bloomers used for athletics and hiking. Materials.- The materials used for bloomers differ according to the locality, life, and climatic conditions. The materials listed for underwear may be used, or the bloomers may be made of material to match the . Satine in a dark color is very satisfactory and occa­ sionally is used. In fact almost any material not too stiff can be utilized for bloomers. Making.- The seams of bloomers should be flat felled, although in some of the light-weight materials French seams will answer. If UNDERGARMENTS 9

the bloomers are to be held at the waist and knees with elastic, the casing should be stitched by machine with buttonholed slits for insert­ ing the elastic. If a second row of stitch­ ing is made close to the outside fold of the casing there will be no trouble with twisting of the elastic. Quite frequently bloomers are gathered or pleated into a band at the waist, button­ ing at one or b o t h sides. In this case the back buttons over the front, and t h e buttonhole should be made horizontally at right angles to the end of the band. Some people like the lower end of the leg portions gathered into a band buttoning over on the outside of the leg just below the knee. In this case a small placket finished with a continuous Pleated Bloomers facing is used. DRAWERS Although drawers have in large measure been discarded in favor of bloomers by both young and old, in many localities they are still used especially for young children. Materials.-Nainsook, long cloth, domestic and the cotton crepes are favored materials for drawers. Making.-Some of these little drawers are cut in one piece, buttoning up on the outside of the leg and onto the waist. The advan­ tage of this type is that they can be ironed out flat. Other drawers both for children and grown-ups are cut straight, that is, with the straight lengthwise of the material extending down on the outside of the leg and a straight lower edge on the legs. Straight drawers always have some fullness which has to be gathered in at the waist. Other drawers are cut somewhat circular giving fullness to the leg and less at the hips and waist. 10 CoLORADO AGRICUI/l'URAL CoLLEGE

The seams in drawers should be fin­ ished with a flat fell. Children's drawers are generally fin­ ished with a band at the top which buttons onto an underwaist.

Fitted Drawers

Straight Drawers Bloomers

Women's drawers are sometimes finished with a band at the waist, buttoning at one or both sides if the drawers are closed. In the top may be finished with a band buttoning at the back or the top may be faced, the facing serving as a casing for a tape to tie at the back. For special finishes follow directions given with the pattern, refer­ ring also to Sewing Handbook. UNDERWAIST This is recognized almost universally as a child's garment. It is popularly supposed to be made of a strong material well equipped with buttons to hold the lower garments in place. Materials.-vVhen made at home these underwaists are often of domestic or drilling. Underwaists, with a slight amount of fullness, for growing girls to wear may be made of cambric, long cloth, domestic or of flour sacks. UNDERGARMENTS 11

Making.- The fullness is gathered into or facing about the neck and into a broad strip of plain material at the waist. This strip is joined to the garment with a plain seam on the rigbt side. The seam is covered with a piece of bias tape stitched on each edge or a straight ' lengthwise band may be used if preferred. Buttons may be sewed onto this tape or band, or if buttons strung on tape are used they should be pinned in position and the bias tape or band stitched over the ends of the button tapes. The button tapes should not be cut over 2 inches in length. Children's underwaists may be fastened either in the front or back, each method having Little Girl's Underwaist its advantages. Back A garment fastened in the front is a little easier for a child to manage and underwaists for young boys are nearly all made in this way. In underwaists for little girls, it

\

Little Girl's Underwaist Practical Type of Underwaist Front is often more convenient if the dresses fasten in the back to have the undergarments planned in the same way; moreover there is then no possibility of the buttons showing through the front of the dress. 12 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLL~G~

BRASSIERE . A brassiere is a garment which has come into quite general use d~rmg the last ten years. Originally this garment was designed to wear With _low-cut and hoi~ the bust. Following this period the brassiere became almost a substitute for the . It is also worn with a corset to prevent the top of the corset from spreading and showing through the dress as a ridge. Brassieres should always be worn by women and girls whose .figures are at all inclined to fullness.

Bust-Supporter brassiere

Long Brassiere Two types of brassieres are illustrated, one the bust-supporter type to be worn without a corset, and the other a long braisiere to be worn over a corset. Materials.-The ready-made brassieres are of materials which it is not always possible to purchase at retail by the yard, and in some cases these materials are so satisfactory that the ready-made brassieres are more economical in the end. \Vhen made at home, drilling, domes­ tic, and heavy satine are strong and satisfactory. The material from which brassieres are made should be thoroly shrunken before using. In the shrinking process, use great care in the that the material is not stretched or pulled out of shape. 1 f trimmings are desired, strong laces of heavy thread and dec­ orative pattern in which the design is not too open should be used. For ordinary brassieres a narrow lace edge of strong quality provides a decorative finish at the upper edge. A piece of bias tape will also be needed. Making.- Careful attention must be paid to all the details of the pattern in cutting and putting together. All sewing should be done by machine. The seams may be flat felled, or a plain seam on the right side of the garment, pressed open, or to one side and covered with a strip of strong tape, either the twilled English tape or bias tape may be UNDERGARMENTS 13 used. Quite frequently this tape, by extra rows of stitching, is made into casings to hold bones. Many of the patterns for long brassieres call for a piece of broad elastic at the sides. The use of elastic makes it possible to have the brassiere fit very snugly about the hips. It is possible to purchase elastic several inches in width which can be used for this purpose. In putting in the elastic baste and fit first then turn in the outside edges of the brassiere over the elastic and stitch flat. Cover the edges on the wrong side with bias tape hemmed on by hand. Most brassieres are designed to fasten in the back with hooks and eyes. To avoid the trouble of the fastenings coming loose, the hooks and eyes riveted onto strong tape and sold by the yard are used. The garment is finished at the back with hems the width of the tape and fitted so that the outer edges of the hems will just meet on the figure. Baste these hems but do not stitch until applying the hook­ and-eye tape, then the stitching of the tape to position will also hold the hem. Allow the other edge of the tape to remain free. The top and bottom of a brassiere may be bound or faced with bias or straight tape. If necessary run a very narrow tape, sometimes called "bobbin," through the binding or facing at the top in order to draw in the upper edge, if there is any tendency to looseness. Many brassieres have a hook or eye on the end of a tape at the bottom of the center front to hook into the lacing or over the clasps of the corset. The narrow brassiere shown is planned merely as a bust support, and can be made from straight pieces of material, fitted slightly under the arms, and made snug at the upper and lower edge by means of darts. ' Both of the brassieres illustrated are orna­ I' mented at the top with a narrow lace edge. ! CORSELETTE ! Another type of garment sometimes called a corselette is a sort of long brassiere, fitted over the hips, and with extensions on the side fronts to which the are attached. This garment serves the purpose of both corset and brassiere. Materials.- The same as used for brassieres. Strong lingerie tape for shoulder straps. Bias tape for finishing. Making.-Cut according to the directions which come with the pattern. Baste, try on and fit carefully. Finish all seams with a flat fell, doing all sewing by machine. Finish the edges at the center back with hook-and-eye tape Corselette 14 CoLoRADO AGRICUL'!'URAL CoLLltGE stitched on by machine. Bind the top and bottom of the corselette witl: bias tape. Lingerie tap<:t may be used for shoulder straps, but straps of the material will be much stronger, and if made narrow will not be con­ spicuous. Sew flat loops of inch-wide twilled tape on the -extensions at the front of the brassiere, and also at the sides or back. Fasten the garters to these loops by passing a safety pin through the loop. Some patterns for corselettes call for an insertion of elastic at the hips, although a corselette is not generally worn as tight as a brassiere. In order that a corselette be flexible the shoulder straps must be of a correct length to bring the upper edge of the corselette at the desired part of the figure and any necessary adjustment be made in the length of the garters. PETTICOAT This is one of the most important undergarments for women and girls and one in which the styles, materials and methods of making change as frequently as do the patterns for dresses. "Petticoat" is an old term formerly used almost synonymously with underskirt. 1\fore recently, however, the tendency has been to use the word petticoat in referring to the long worn next the dress, while underskirt has come to be thought of as a shorter skirt of knee length formerly worn under the petticoat. The underskirt is little worn at the present time. \Vhen dresses became straight in line the petticoat immediately followed suit until it has apparently reached the limit in simplicity. Materials.-The materials used for outside petticoats include a long list of fabrics from the simplest cotton weaves to the most elab­ orate of and . It is economy to purchase a good grade of material for a petticoat. The materials used for underskirts are generally of a simpler type than those for the petticoat, and are generally washable. Making.- When a petticoat is straight or with only two gores and fits comfortably over the hips, there is more or less fullness to be gathered or fitted into the waist. 1\Iost of this fullness can be dis.. posed of by taking up darts, but when the hips are large, requiring considerable fullness for comfort, and a smooth fit from the hips to the waist is desired, a three- or four-gored skirt is better. A petticoat should be as carefully planned and fitted as an outside garment. If cut straight the material should be of such a quality that the fullness about the waist will not be too clumsy. The seams should be flat felled. Finish a straight placket at the center back (see Sewing Handbook) and make a three-quarter inch hem at the top for a casing in which to run elastic, stitching the edge of the hem and again close to the upper edge. This will keep the elastic from twisting. Lap the width of the placket and finish with two snap fasteners. Finish the lower edge of the petticoat with a hem or embroidery. UNDERGARMENTS 15

CHILDREN'S PETTICOATS With the wearing of rompers and bloomers, petticoats for young children have been almost discarded. When a full effect is desired to wear under thin dresses, slips are more generally used than petticoats. When petticoats are made for young children, they are generally straight, and gathered into a band buttoning onto an underwaist, and are made of wash materials.

SLIPS The almost universal wearing of one-piece and long-waisted dresses, especially of thin materials, has made the use of the slip prac­ tically a necessity. In choosing a pattern for a slip, select one with a straight lower edge if possible, and with some fullness over the hips. This full­ ness is often obtained by cutting on an extension at the hip depth at the side seams of both front and back sections. The garment must be full enough to slip over the head and shoulders. Materials.- T h e materials used for slips vary almost as much as those for outside petticoats. Sat­ eens, silks and rayons seem to be the most favored materials, and the colors are generally light, except for wear with dark dresses of transparent material when slips of dark silk are used. Making.-The finish at t h e top is generally straight, with straps over the shoulders. If the slip is of thin goods and is to be worn with dresses of transparent mater­ ial, it is advisable to allow for a hem extending up to the hip line. This is more satisfactory than mak­ ing the front and back breadths Slip double, or than facing them with other material as in the laundering, materials shrink differently. The side seams are generally French seamed and the seam joining the gathered section at the sides is either bound or faced. 16 CoLORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

Slips are generally made with a tailored finish, that is, with no trimming and with plain or hemstitched hems. The straps over the shoulders may be of ribbon or lingerie tape to match the slip or of the same material stitched or hemstitched to match the finish on other portions of the garment. The fullness at the top may be 1 I held in with ribbon or lingerie tape

) run through a casing which may be made by running a second row of plain or ornamental stitching in the top hem. ~la.s\ •---L ~·----• sl.uh NIGHT GOWN This garment has become much more straight in line and simple in cut in the last few years, and where fTont we formerly purchased night ready made, as a matter of economy of time, and sometimes of money as well, it is now possible to make them in a very short time and at a small expenditure of money. The most popular types of gowns are t h e sleeveless and the kimona, the latter having a short sleeve. These designs Flat Pattern of Slip and many others as well are of the slip-on type, thus doing away with the necessity of buttons and buttonholes. When sleeves are cut sep­ arately from the garment they are generally the set-in style, finished above or below the elbow. All of the slip-on gowns have enough full­ ness, or have the neck cut out to a sufficient size to allow them to slip over the head easily and any extra amount of fullness is then adjusted by a ribbon or lingerie tape. Materials.-The materials for gowns may be of cotton or silk. In the cotton goods, nainsook, cambric, and long cloth are favorite materials, while domestic or muslin, batiste, satinette, crepe, ripplette, dimity and outing flannel all have their advocates. In the silks, crepe de Chine, pongee, pussy willow, or wash satin are all excellent. Trimmings.- The trimmings for the cotton gowns may be of lace or embroidery in a quality to suit the material used. Gowns of outing flannel, if trimmed at all, look best with some simple braid which can be stitched on flat. Night gowns of silk frequently are finished in a tailored effect with no trimming at all. Machine hemstitching gives an excellent effect and a little hand embroidery may be used very effectively. If lace is used it should be of a quality and design to correspond with the material on which it is to ·be used. UNDERGARMENTS 17

Making.-French seams are generally used on night gowns except on those of outing flannel on which a flat fell is better. On crepe de Chine it will be necessary to the tension of the machine in order that the garment does not draw up at t h e seam, thus making it diffi­ cult to turn a satisfactory hem in the lower edge. On account of the length the seams in gowns are nearly always made by machine. The hems at the lower edge may be finished by hand or machine, depend­ ing on the material and the effect desired. The width of the hem at the lower edge may vary from 1 inch in the heavier materials to two inches in the finer cot­ ton materials and in silks. The length of the gown should be from 1 to 2 in­ ches from the floor when finished. The top of the gown may be finished in any de­ sired way, by m a c h i n e hemstitching, hand em­ broidery or trimmings of lace or embroidery, or the neck and armseye (if the garment is sleeveless) may be finished with a narrow, bias binding of the mater­ ial. The second sewing of this binding may be by plain mach i n e stitching, hand hemming, or by a line of decorative stitches. A facing may also be used as a finish for the neck and armseye. This may be applied either on the right or wrong side of the garment and finished with machine stitching, machine hem-stitching, or by hand sewing, either plain hemming or a line of decorative stitches. These methods are often used on gowns which fit smoothly about the shoulders but which have the neck cut to such a depth that the gown can be slipped on easily. The sleeves are generally finished to match the neck 18 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

PAJAMAS The vogue of s le e p i n g porches, and camping out in summer has been largely re­ sponsible for the of pajamas among women. From almost an exact copy of the styles of men's paja­ mas, those for women h a v e now become somewhat more practical, more attractive in appearance and a little more simple to make. Materials.-The materials used in women's pajamas are practically the same as for gowns. As pajamas are gen­ erally tailored in effect, the decoration should be confined to machine hemstitching or of material of a con­ trasting color. Making.-In testing the pattern, be sure that the depth of the seat (from the waist to crotch) in the is long enough to be comfortable. The seams of the trousers should be flat felled and the bottoms hemmed with a 1 inch hem put in by hand or ma­ chine unless the pattern calls for a facing on the right side. If the trousers are full and to be gathered at the ankle, the lower edge is generally finished with a narrow hem and a casing for e 1 a s t i c Pajamas stitched on about 1.:% inches above the hem. If the trousers have a side placket at the waist, this should be finished with a continuous facing for which directions are given in the Sewing Handbook, but many of the patterns do not call for plackets. The trousers are finished at the top with a straight facing about 1 inch wide which is also used as a casing for ties of the material if the placket is used, or for an elastic, if there is no placket opening. If ties of the material are to be used, cut a lengthwise strip of the material about 2 inches wide and the desired waist measure plus one UNDERGARMENTS 19 yard. If this strip can be planned with the selvedge on one long edge the selvedge can be utilized as a finish instead of turning in both long edges. Fold the strap to a ~-inch width turning in the ends and stitching around all edges. Pajamas are of two types, the slip-on and the double breasted. The slip-on type is much more simple to make especially when the kimona sleeve is used. The seams of the should be flat felled to match those in the trousers. The sleeves are also put in with a flat fell. The lower edges of the jacket and sleeves are generally finished with a l-inch hem by hand or machine, unless the pattern calls for a cuff finish or a facing on the sleeves. In the slip-on model the neck of the pajamas jacket is generally finished with a shaped facing on the right or wrong side. This facing may be of the same material or of a contrasting color. After the facing is stitched and turned onto the right or wrong side of the garment, machine hem-stitching, decorative stitches by hand, or plain machine stitching will furnish attractive methods of holding it in position. Directions for cutting and applying shaped facings will be found in the Sewing Handbook. When the regular jacket opening is desired, Trousers of Pajamas the fronts are faced back for several inches with Suit a shaped facing put on from the right side and turned onto the wrong side. The neck is also faced with a shaped facing extending from the front facing around the shoulders and back of the neck. Jackets made in this way fasten with buttons and buttonholes, or buttons and loops of cord or braid. If trimming is desired, a flat braid of mercerized cotton or silk will be found most satisfactory. KIMONAS AND Even though the kimona as such is now decidedly out of date the term has come to include almost any type of negligee from the simplest kimona pattern to the most elaborate partially fitted garment. The designs for the negligees vary fully as much as those for dresses, and the loose full type has for the moment gone into the discard and has been superseded by a straight type. The true kimona pattern designed after the Japanese garment, straight in cut, and rather scant in material is seen in this country much more now than formerly. A kimona or negligee is distinctly a loose garment which should be worn only in the privacy of one's own room, or in passing from one's room to a dressing room or bath. 20 COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

Some of the more elaborate negligees might almost be classed as dresses. This type of garment is, however, not suggested as a problem for extension work. There is quite a tendency to return to the practical in nt:!gligees, and more of the plain tailored style, similar to the illustration are shown. A gar"" ment of this kind reminds one of a man's or bath . Materials.-The materials used for negligees include all types from the plainest to the most elab­ orate silks. Suitable materials in cotton are crepe, satine, satinette, dimity and soft prints. In silks, crepe, satin and taffeta. In , challis and flannel, the latter a ~cotch or French flannel, or the well known eider down flannel. Eider down flannel has a soft wooly surface witp knitted cotton back. materials are most attrac­ tive and suitable for negligees. The qualities which s h o u 1 d be looked for in materials for negligees are softness, enough "body" or weight to hang well, and occasionally warmth. The color should be suitable for Negligee or Dressing Gown the places in which such a garment will be used and may be beautiful as well. In one's home a negligee of a brilliant and becoming color is quite permissible, while in traveling such a color would tend to make the wearer conspicuous. Plaids, checks, stripes and figures are quite in their proper place in negligees if we desire such. Considerable care should be taken in the selection of the pattern to get a design which will be easy to make and practical to wear. The illustration shows a sensible type of negligee which may be made of heavy cotton, silk, rayon or flannel. Making.-The seams of negligees are French seamed or flat felled according to the material used. A flat fell gives a much more tailored effect. The length of a negligee varies as much as the length of a dress, and as to how complete a covering is desired. A two-inch hem at the lower edge will be a satisfactory finish. The negligee shown has a , and the fronts overlap or around. UNDERGARMENTS 21

The shawl collar is made double and put on with a bias facing of the material, the facing extending down the front edges. The cuffs are applied in the same way. A string of the material, cut straight lengthwise, and stitched and turned serves to hold the garment close about the figure. Buttons and buttonholes may be used if desired, and the pockets too are optional.

BOUDOIR Through much misuse, the , which at first seemed to be a most useful article of apparel, has come to be considered almost unsuitable for a self-respecting girl or woman. However the boudoir cap in itself is such a practical article that a few comments on it will not be amiss. First, as to the time for wearing a boudoir cap, it may be worn quite suitably on occasions when a negligee is worn, and at no other time. A boudoir cap should not be an addition to the breakfast , nor to the outfit for motoring. Materials.-Soft silk, ribbons, net and lace are all used for making boudoir caps. The colors should be delicate or, for practical purposes, a cap to match the negligee may be made. The trimmings used are generally lace and ribbon. Many of the more attractive caps are tailored in effect, decorated with machine hemstitching. Making.-The details of the making depend on the style and pattern and materials used, and as little sewing as possible should be done in order not to destroy the desired soft effect. All raw edges should be carefully concealed. The types of boudoir caps which will stay in place without an elastic band are in better style than those requiring an elastic band.