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Home , Lingerie tape, Negligee, Slip (clothing)

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Bulletin 200-A September, 1929

UNDERGARMENTS

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CoLOHADo Amnn:a~TURAI. CoLT.EGE

l~XTENSION SERVfCE F. A. ANDERSON, I )mEC'l'Oit

CooperatiYe Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics. Colo­ rado Agricultural College and the United Htates Department of Agriculture CoopPrating-. Distributed in furtherance of the Aets of Congress of :\lay S HIHl .Tnnp :10. 1HH.

~m!!mmm"m"""ill'mml!!!"'mm!imm!l!im!l!!!i!i!!!"mmrnumu"llilm""mm"""""~mmm""lllilil""mmmm"iiDUJm""mm""""!!!ili!!lmwi!l!l!!!'llmmmnmrn•~ FOH CSE IN EXTENSION \VOR.K SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING By BLANCHE E. HYDE, Extension Specialist in

Articles of underwear change in name, style, material and points of construction almost as often as outside clothing. In fact these changes in underwear are often made necessary by the cut and general style of the outside garment. The articles listed in this bulletin are those which, in one form or another, and sometimes under different names, are in quite general use. The suggestions given as to methods of making these garments will carry over into other garments similar in style and materials. Detailed directions as to the stitches and seams used will be found in the Sewing Handbook. On account of the rapidly changing styles in undergarments, all illustrations have been omitted in this bulletin. COST OF UNDERWEAR There is always a great difference of opinion as to which is the better economy, to purchase underwear ready-made, or to buy the materials and construct it at home. From a standpoint of actual cash expenditure, if the same quality of materials is used, one can gen­ erally make underwear for from about half to two-thirds the cost of the ready-made. When making underwear at home, however the tendency is to use a better quality of materials, hence the feeling that the ready­ made is cheaper. From the standpoint of durability a home-made garment will generally outwear a ready-made one of the same money value, but when time is an important factor, and the woman or girl is respon­ sible for many other home duties besides the family sewing, it may be a better plan for her to spend her energies or her free time In other ways than sewing. MATERIALS FOR UNDERGARMENTS Qualities.-Material from which an is to be made should be soft and smooth, as fine a quality as one can afford, attrac­ tive in appearance, up to date in style, easy to launder, and reason­ ably durable considering the quality of the goods and the price paid. Color.-White or some delicate color should be used in prefer­ ence to strong or brilliant shades. Materials in favor for undergar­ ments include : 4 CoLORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A

Cotton: Nainsook which is sold under many trade names. Longcloth also sold under many trade names. materials sold under various trade names. Domestic, muslin, or cloth. These names vary accord- ing to the locality. Flour sack material. Satine or satinette. English prints. : Crepe de Chine. China Silk. Pussy Willow. Wash . , sold under various names. Linen is n

TRIMMINGS FOR UNDERWEAR Undergarments of good quality materials, satisfactO'ry in cut and 'WOrkmanship, . have a certain style of their own and do not need elaborate trimming. At the present time very little trimming is used, the styles of un­ dergarments being somewhat tailored. When trimmings are used they should correspond to the quality of the material with which they are to be combined. A little hand work will often give a sufficient touch of beauty to an otherwise extremely plain garment. Suggestions for some of the simple decorative stitches will be found in the Sewing Handbook. Trimmings purchased by the yard are of two types: (1) Lace, either edge or insertion; and (2) Embroidery; either edge or inser­ tion. Lace may be used on both cotton and silk materials, but both de­ sign and quality of lace should be chosen with due regard to the mate­ rial on which it is to be used. A finer quality and more elaborate pattern are sometimes permissible on silk undergarments but not on cotton. Directions for applying trimmings to underwear are given in the Sewing Handbook. A little hand embroidery if carried out in a suitable design and Sept. 1929 UNDERGARMENTS 5

thread, and if the work is done in a skilful manner will often furnish an attractive bit of decoration. RIBBON AND Where ribbon is used in undergarments a good quality af wash ribbon is more economical in the end, but lingerie tape has in a great measure superseded the use of silk ribbon. Lingerie tape comes in white and light colors, and both plain and figured. Some of the better grades of lingerie tape are woven in the same patterns as wash ribbons.

UNDERGARMENTS Of the garments classed as undergarments or lingerie, the fol- lowing types are discussed in this bulletin. Undervest Combination or ''Step-in'' Brassiere Night Kimona, or In 4-H clothing club work a list of garments from which selec­ tion is to be made by girls taking the undergarment project is sent out with the Leader's Manual each year. In purchasing patterns for undergarments, if possible look at the back of the pattern envelope and note the shape of the different sections of the pattern. If you desire a certain garment to have a straight lower edge note whether the pattern sections show this. Most patterns at the present time give quite detailed instructions a~ to finish. Therefore the directions given in this bulletin are only general directions.

UNDER VEST This garment is so simple that if necessary it may be made with­ out a pattern. If a straight type is desired, that is a straight pieca of material not shaped in at the under arms, and straight across the , unless the garment is to be made of which will stretch to the figure, the chief point to be considered is the width, for the undervest extends to, or below, the hip line, and the. garment must be wide enough at its lower edge, to permit the persan to sit. In ordinary yard goods this sometimes makes the garment too full 6 Cor;ORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A

around the top, but in such a case the fullness may be held in by small tucks or by a ribbon draw-string. Making and Finishing Undervest.-Cut according to pattern, ar straight according to the size of person. As this garment is worn directly next to the skin the seams should be finished so that they will be flat and smooth. In undergarments for young children, the seams are sometimes made and finished on the outside of the garment in order not to chafe the delicate skin. If one or more seams are used in the undergarment, finish with a French seam or a flat fell; a seam sewed by hand will be much softer than one sewed by machine. The lower edge is generally finished with a plain hem, sewed by hand or machine. If the garment is of Jersey 01' a very soft silk, a hand-hemmed finish will ''give'' much more than a machine-stitched one. If the garment is to be finished straight across the top, a hem % inch in width should be made at the top, finished by hand or ma­ chine. A row of fine feather-stitching is an attractive finish. A casing for the ribbon should be made in this hem by a second line of sewing close to the outside fold. When sewing on shoulder straps, be sure that they are sewed near enough to the front so they will not slip off. They should be sewed on first at the bottom of the casing. Turn under the edge and hem to position, holding the ribbon flat and at right angles to the casing. Sew again on the upper edge making sure that the sewing does not interfere with the free passage of ribbon thru the casing. When the top of the undervest is curved the edge may be fin­ ished by a narrow hem, a rolled edge, a facing or a binding, and the armseye in a like manner, with or without trimming. COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT OR "STEP·IN" Making.-The methods of making and finishing are similar to those used in an undervest. This undergarment may be cut in dif­ ferent ways. One type of pattern is somewhat similar in appearance to an envelope with a short extension cut on at the bottom of both front and back. This garment is generally curved up at the sides and finished at the lower edges with or without a trimming. If trim­ ming of lace is used, directions for applying either before or after the edge is hemmed will be found in the Sewing Handbook. For convenience in ''stepping in,'' the top of the garment is generally finished straight across with shoulder straps. Feather-stitching and machine hemstitching make attractive fin­ ishes on undergarments of this type and occasionally embroidery is used. The top of a combination or ''step-in'' may be finished with Sept. 1929 UNDERGARMENTS 7

shaped straps of the material cut onto both front and back and but­ toning on the shoulders, or with straps of lingerie tape. Still another type of ''step-in'' or combination undergarment has practically no extension at the bottom but is curved down from about the line almost in a semi-circle, and the front and back joined in a short seam at the center bottom. SHORTS These garments which were first worn by girls for athletics have come to have a definite place in the class of undergarments. Shorts for girls are a sort of compromise between bloomers and the old-fashioned drawers, yet without the tightness of bloomer elastics. The various types of patterns bring special requirements as to making. The shorts may be fitted in by darts around the waist and hjps to a straight band or a yoke. Making.-Follow the directions on the pattern as to cutting. If darts are indicated by perforations, baste these. Baste the front and back seams according to the notches, then baste the crotch seam, and try on. In finishing use the flat felled seam for the front and back seams, and also for the leg seam, unless the short leg seam is quite curved, in which case, if the material is soft it will be permissi­ ble to use the French seam. As a rule it is well to finish the garment at the waist first. If dartS~ are used they may, if small, be turned to one side, but if large it will be best to finish them with a flat fell. If a yoke is used, it is generally made double and the seam at the waist is stitched and turned. The yoke is then applied from the wrong side, seaming the upper edge of the shorts to the lower edge of the under section of the yoke with the seam on the right side. Then turn undel" the raw edge of the outside section of the yoke, and stitch by machine. One row of machine stitching around the edges will be sufficient. In finishing the side openings or placket& at one or both sides, use the method known as the drawers' placket. See Sewing Hand­ book. Other types of finish for the side openings will probably be found with the pattern. In shorts, as in drawers, if side plackets are used, the back laps over the front. The sides are fastened by a flat button and worked buttonhole at each side. See Sewing Handbook. The bottom of the legs may be finished with cut very slightly smaller than the lower edges of the leg portion, which is gathered or eased into the bands. The band is applied from the wrong side, finishing on the right side ; or the legs may be finished with a hem held in position by plain hemming stitches, by a row of ornamen­ tal stitches or by machine hemstitching. 8 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A

BRASSIERE A brassiere is a garment which has come into quite general use during the last ten years. Originally this garment was designed to wear with low -cut and hold the bust. Following this period the brassiere became almost a substitute for the . It is nO'W worn with or without any other supporting garment. Brassieres should always be worn by women and girls whose fig­ ures are at all inclined to fullness. Materials.-The ready-made brassieres are of materials which it is not always possible to purchase at retail by the yard, and in some cases these materials are so satisfactory that the ready-made ­ sieres are more economical in the end. When made at home, any firm lingerie material may be used. The materials from which brassieres are made should be thoroly shrunken before using. In the shrinking process, use great care in the that the material is not stretched or pulled out of shape. Some brassieres are made entirely of heavy lace. For ordinary brassieres a narrow lace edge of strong quality provides a decorative finish at the upper edge. Strong lingerie tape, elastic or ribbon is suitable for shoulder straps. A piece of bias tape may also be needed. Making.-Careful attention must be paid to all the details of the pattern in cutting and putting together. All sewing should be done by machine. The seams in a brassiere are generally flat felled. Most brassieres are designed to fasten in the back with hooks and eyes. The top and bottom of brassiere may be bound or faced with bias or straight tape, and the garment should fit very snugly. If necessary, run a very narrow tape, sometimes called "bob­ bin,'' thru the binding or facing at the top in order to draw in the upper edge, if there is any tendency to looseness. Narrow brassieres are sometimes used merely as a bust support, and can be made from straight pieces of material, fitted slightly un­ der the arms, and made snug at the upper and lower edge by means of darts. SLIPS The almost universal wearing of one-piece and long-waisted dres&es, especially of thin materials, has made the use of the slip prac­ tically a necessity. In choosing a pattern for a slip, select one with a straight lower Sept. 1929 UNDERGARMENTS 9 edge if possible, and with some fullness over the hips. This fullness is often obtained by cutting on an extension at the hip depth at the side seams of both front and back sections. The garment must be full enough to slip over the head and shoulders. Making.-The finish at the top of a slip is generally straight, with straps over the shoulders. If the slip is of thin goods and is to be worn with of transparent material, it is advisable to allow for a hem extending up to the hip line. This is more satisfactory than making the front and back breadths double, or than facing them with other material as in the laundering, materials shrink differently. The side seams are generally French seamed and the seam joining the gathered section at the sides is either bound or faced. Slips are generally made with a tailored finish, that is, with no trimming and with plain or hemstitched hems. The straps over the shoulders may be of ribbon or lingerie tape to match the slip but preferably are made of the same material stitched or hemstitched to match the finish on other portions of the garment. The fullness at the top may be held in with ribbon or lingerie tape run thru a casing which may be made by running a second row of plain or ornamental stitching in the top hem. Snap fasteners sewed on at each side of the front close to the arm will hold the top of the slip more closely and with less "bunchi­ ness" than the ribbon.

NIGHT GOWN This garment has become much more straight in line and simple in cut in the last few years, and where we formerly purchased night ready made, as a matter of economy of time, and sometimes of money as well, it is now possible to make them in a very short time and at a small expenditure of money. The most popular types of gown are the sleeveless and the kimona, the latter extending just over the top of the arm. These designs and many others as well are of the slip-on type, thus doing away with the necessity of buttons and but­ tonholes. When sleeves are cut separately from the garment they are generally the set-in style, finished above or below the elbow. All of the slip-on gowns have enough fullness, or have the neck cut out to a sufficient size to allow them to slip over the head easily. The trimmings for cotton gowns may be of lace in a quality to the material used. Gowns of outing flannel, if trimmed at all, look best with some simple braid which can be stitched on flat. Night gowns of silk or rayon frequently are finished in a tailored effect with no trimming at all. l\fachine hemstitching gives an ex- 10 COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE No. 200-A

cellent effect and a little hand embroidery may be used very effec­ tively. If lace is used it should be of a quality and design to correspond with the material on which it is to be used. Making.-French seams are generally used on night gowns except on those of outing flannel on which a flat fell is better. On crepe de Chine or rayon materials it will be necessary to the tension of the machine in order that the garment does not draw up at the seam, thus making it difficult to turn a satisfactory hem in the lower edge. On account of the length the seams in gowns are nearly always made by machine. The hems at the lower edge may be finished by hand or machine, depending on the material and the effect desired. The width of the hem at the lower edge may vary from 1 inch in the heavier materials to 2 inches in the finer cotton materials and in . The top of the gown may be finished in any desired way, by ma­ chine hemstitching, hand embroidery or trimmings of lace or embroid­ ery, or the neck and armseye (if the garment i& sleeveless) may be finished with a narrow, bias binding of the material or with bias tape. The sewing of this binding may be by plain machine stitching, hand hemming, or by a line of decorative stitches. A facing may also be used as a finish for the neck and armseye. This may be applied either on the right or wrong side of the garment and finished with machine stitching, machine hemstitching, or by hand sewing, either plain hemming or a line of decorative stitches. These methods are often used on gowns which fit smoothly about the shoulders but which have the neck cut to such a depth that the gown can be slipped on easily. The sleeves are generally finished to match the neck.

PAJAMAS The vogue of sleeping porches, and camping out in summer has been largely responsible for the of pajamas among women. From almost an exact copy of the styles of men's pajamas, those for women have now become somewhat more practical, more attractive in appearance and a little more simple to make. Making.-In testing the pattern, be sure that the depth of the seat (from the waist to crotch) in the is long enough to be comfortable. The seams of the trousers should be flat felled and the bottoms hemmed with a 1 inch hem put in by hand or machine unless the pat­ tern calls for a facing on the right side. If the trousers are full and to be gathered at the ankle, the lower Sept. 1929 { r NDEROARMENTS ll edge is generally finished with a narrow hem and a casing for elastic stitched on about llj2 inches above the hem. If the trousers have a side placket at the waist, this should be finished with a continuous facing for which directions are given in the Sewing Handbook, but many of the patterns do not call for plackets. The trousers are finished at the top with a straight facing about 1 inch wide which is also used as a casing for ties of the material if the placket is used, or for an elastic, if there is no placket open­ ing. The use of elastic is a favorite method. If ties of the material are to be used, cut a lengthwise strip of the material about 2 inches wide and the desired waist measure plus one yard. If this strip can be planned with the selvedge on one long edge the selvedge can be utilized as a finish instead of turning in both long edges. Fold the strip to a ~4 -inch width turning in the ends and stitching around all edges. Pajama are of two types, the slip-on and the double breasted. The slip-on type is much more simple to make especially when the kimona or butterfly sleeve is used. rrhe seams of the should be flat felled to match those in the trousers. If sleeves are used they are put in with a flat fell. The lower edges of the jacket and sleeves are generally finished with a l-inch hem by hand or ma­ chine, unless the pattern calls for a cuff finish or a facing on the sleeves. In the slip-on model the neck of the pajama jacket is generally finished with a shaped facing on the right or wrong side. This facing may be of the same material or of a contrasting color. After the facing is stitched and turned onto the right or wrong side of the gar­ ment, machine hem-stitching, decorative stitches by hand, or plain machine stitching will furnbh attractive methods of holding it in po5ition. Directions for cutting and applying shaped facings will be found in the Sewing Handbook. When the regular jacket opening is desired, the fronts are faced back for several inches with a shaped facing put on from the right side and turned onto the wrong side. The neck is also faced with a shaped facing extending from the front facing around the shoulders and back of the neck. J a.ckets made in this way fasten with buttons and buttonhole~, or buttons and loops of cord or braid. If trimming is desired, a flat braid of mercerized cotton or silk will be found most satisfactory. KIMONAS, OR Even tho the kimona as such is now decidedly out of date the term has come to include almost any type of negligee from the simplest ki- 12 CoLOI{ADO AomcuLTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A mona pattern to the most elaborate partially fitted garment. The designs for these garments -..·ary fully as much as those for dresses, and the loose full type has for the moment gone into the discard and has been superseded by a straight type. A kimona or negligee is distinctly a loose garment which should be worn only in the privacy of one's own room, or in passing from one's room to a dressing room or bath. Some of the more elaborate negligees might almost be cla~sed as dresses. This type of garment is, however, not suggested as a prob­ lem for extension work among adults or in 4-H clothing work. There is quite a tendency to return to the practical in negligee:.: and more of the plain tailored style are seen. A garment of this kind reminds one of a man's or bath . Materials.-The materials used for negligees include all types from the plainest to the most elaborate silks. Suitable mate­ rials in cotton are satine, satinette, English prints and cotton suiting:-.. In silks, crepe and satin. In , challis and flannel, the latter a Scotch or French flannel. Rayon materials are most attractive and suitable for negligees. and are generally less expensive than silks. The qualities which should be looked for in materials for negli­ gees are softness, enough ''body' 1 or \Veight to hang well, and occas­ ionally vvarmth. The color should be suitable for the places in which such a gar­ ment will be used and may be beautiful as well. In one's home a neg­ ligee of a brilliant and becoming color and elaborate {lesign is quite permissible. Making.-The seams of negligees are French seamed or flat felled according to the material used. A flat fell gives a much more tailored effect. The length of a negligee -...aries as much as the length of a , and as to how complete a covering is desired. A 2-inch hem at the lower edge will be a satisfactory finish. Collars when used on negligeeH are generally made double and are put on \Yith a bias facing, or as a binding. The cuffs are applied in the same way. A string of the material, cut straight lengthwise. and stitchefl and turned serves to hold the garment close about the figure. Buttons and buttonholes may be used on negligees if desired, and pockets too are optional.