~l!l!lll!!llill!iili!!ill!!i@lll!li!l!!i!ll!i!!llliil!liillli@!i!!i!!!i!!!iii!M!ilf!I!U'!!!"~'!''."_'®.:"!.njjiill~m!i!!!il!i!illlilii!i!i!liill!!iil!!lililll!!llll!!lilli!i!l!!l!l!!iilll!i!l!l!li!!!lill!l!!i!!!i!!illllll!!i!i!l!l~ Bulletin 200-A September, 1929 UNDERGARMENTS ~l!!!!l!lll~!iii!!!H!~illlli ~1!!11111~ !illl!t!!@ll!l!!!!!ill!llllll@ CoLOHADo Amnn:a~TURAI. CoLT.EGE l~XTENSION SERVfCE F. A. ANDERSON, I )mEC'l'Oit CooperatiYe Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics. Colo­ rado Agricultural College and the United Htates Department of Agriculture CoopPrating-. Distributed in furtherance of the Aets of Congress of :\lay S HIHl .Tnnp :10. 1HH. ~m!!mmm"m"""ill'mml!!!"'mm!imm!l!im!l!!!i!i!!!"mmrnumu"llilm""mm"""""~mmm""lllilil""mmmm"iiDUJm""mm""""!!!ili!!lmwi!l!l!!!'llmmmnmrn•~ FOH CSE IN EXTENSION \VOR.K UNDERGARMENTS SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING By BLANCHE E. HYDE, Extension Specialist in Clothing Articles of underwear change in name, style, material and points of construction almost as often as outside clothing. In fact these changes in underwear are often made necessary by the cut and general style of the outside garment. The articles listed in this bulletin are those which, in one form or another, and sometimes under different names, are in quite general use. The suggestions given as to methods of making these garments will carry over into other garments similar in style and materials. Detailed directions as to the stitches and seams used will be found in the Sewing Handbook. On account of the rapidly changing styles in undergarments, all illustrations have been omitted in this bulletin. COST OF UNDERWEAR There is always a great difference of opinion as to which is the better economy, to purchase underwear ready-made, or to buy the materials and construct it at home. From a standpoint of actual cash expenditure, if the same quality of materials is used, one can gen­ erally make underwear for from about half to two-thirds the cost of the ready-made. When making underwear at home, however the tendency is to use a better quality of materials, hence the feeling that the ready­ made is cheaper. From the standpoint of durability a home-made garment will generally outwear a ready-made one of the same money value, but when time is an important factor, and the woman or girl is respon­ sible for many other home duties besides the family sewing, it may be a better plan for her to spend her energies or her free time In other ways than sewing. MATERIALS FOR UNDERGARMENTS Qualities.-Material from which an undergarment is to be made should be soft and smooth, as fine a quality as one can afford, attrac­ tive in appearance, up to date in style, easy to launder, and reason­ ably durable considering the quality of the goods and the price paid. Color.-White or some delicate color should be used in prefer­ ence to strong or brilliant shades. Materials in favor for undergar­ ments include : 4 CoLORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A Cotton: Nainsook which is sold under many trade names. Longcloth also sold under many trade names. Lingerie materials sold under various trade names. Domestic, muslin, or cotton cloth. These names vary accord- ing to the locality. Flour sack material. Satine or satinette. English prints. Silk: Crepe de Chine. China Silk. Pussy Willow. Wash Satin. Rayon, sold under various names. Linen is n<Yt used to any great extent for undergarments. Cotton crepe or ripplette is not suitable for garments to be ex­ hibited in 4-H clothing work as neither hand nor machine sewing looks well on it. TRIMMINGS FOR UNDERWEAR Undergarments of good quality materials, satisfactO'ry in cut and 'WOrkmanship, . have a certain style of their own and do not need elaborate trimming. At the present time very little trimming is used, the styles of un­ dergarments being somewhat tailored. When trimmings are used they should correspond to the quality of the material with which they are to be combined. A little hand work will often give a sufficient touch of beauty to an otherwise extremely plain garment. Suggestions for some of the simple decorative stitches will be found in the Sewing Handbook. Trimmings purchased by the yard are of two types: (1) Lace, either edge or insertion; and (2) Embroidery; either edge or inser­ tion. Lace may be used on both cotton and silk materials, but both de­ sign and quality of lace should be chosen with due regard to the mate­ rial on which it is to be used. A finer quality and more elaborate pattern are sometimes permissible on silk undergarments but not on cotton. Directions for applying trimmings to underwear are given in the Sewing Handbook. A little hand embroidery if carried out in a suitable design and Sept. 1929 UNDERGARMENTS 5 thread, and if the work is done in a skilful manner will often furnish an attractive bit of decoration. RIBBON AND LINGERIE TAPE Where ribbon is used in undergarments a good quality af wash ribbon is more economical in the end, but lingerie tape has in a great measure superseded the use of silk ribbon. Lingerie tape comes in white and light colors, and both plain and figured. Some of the better grades of lingerie tape are woven in the same patterns as wash ribbons. UNDERGARMENTS Of the garments classed as undergarments or lingerie, the fol- lowing types are discussed in this bulletin. Undervest Combination or ''Step-in'' Shorts Brassiere Slip Night gown Pajamas Kimona, Negligee or Bathrobe In 4-H clothing club work a list of garments from which selec­ tion is to be made by girls taking the undergarment project is sent out with the Leader's Manual each year. In purchasing patterns for undergarments, if possible look at the back of the pattern envelope and note the shape of the different sections of the pattern. If you desire a certain garment to have a straight lower edge note whether the pattern sections show this. Most patterns at the present time give quite detailed instructions a~ to finish. Therefore the directions given in this bulletin are only general directions. UNDER VEST This garment is so simple that if necessary it may be made with­ out a pattern. If a straight type is desired, that is a straight pieca of material not shaped in at the under arms, and straight across the top, unless the garment is to be made of Jersey which will stretch to the figure, the chief point to be considered is the width, for the undervest extends to, or below, the hip line, and the. garment must be wide enough at its lower edge, to permit the persan to sit. In ordinary yard goods this sometimes makes the garment too full 6 Cor;ORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE No. 200-A around the top, but in such a case the fullness may be held in by small tucks or by a ribbon draw-string. Making and Finishing Undervest.-Cut according to pattern, ar straight according to the size of person. As this garment is worn directly next to the skin the seams should be finished so that they will be flat and smooth. In undergarments for young children, the seams are sometimes made and finished on the outside of the garment in order not to chafe the delicate skin. If one or more seams are used in the undergarment, finish with a French seam or a flat fell; a seam sewed by hand will be much softer than one sewed by machine. The lower edge is generally finished with a plain hem, sewed by hand or machine. If the garment is of Jersey 01' a very soft silk, a hand-hemmed finish will ''give'' much more than a machine-stitched one. If the garment is to be finished straight across the top, a hem % inch in width should be made at the top, finished by hand or ma­ chine. A row of fine feather-stitching is an attractive finish. A casing for the ribbon should be made in this hem by a second line of sewing close to the outside fold. When sewing on shoulder straps, be sure that they are sewed near enough to the front so they will not slip off. They should be sewed on first at the bottom of the casing. Turn under the edge and hem to position, holding the ribbon flat and at right angles to the casing. Sew again on the upper edge making sure that the sewing does not interfere with the free passage of ribbon thru the casing. When the top of the undervest is curved the edge may be fin­ ished by a narrow hem, a rolled edge, a facing or a binding, and the armseye in a like manner, with or without trimming. COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT OR "STEP·IN" Making.-The methods of making and finishing are similar to those used in an undervest. This undergarment may be cut in dif­ ferent ways. One type of pattern is somewhat similar in appearance to an envelope chemise with a short extension cut on at the bottom of both front and back. This garment is generally curved up at the sides and finished at the lower edges with or without a trimming. If trim­ ming of lace is used, directions for applying either before or after the edge is hemmed will be found in the Sewing Handbook. For convenience in ''stepping in,'' the top of the garment is generally finished straight across with shoulder straps.