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The Basques and Their Country

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THE BASQUES AND THEIR COUNTRY ILLU8TRATBD I P.i S. ORMOND I’ Í :-.: ";-^-:-:iM-- '/: m ^ . :' • Î, • in'-/-! 1 .^' ; Sv,.v-,- -''•-, '-I.-','iv'í¡'--'í^''':^ ' - /• »/■ fT ' - y . •'•.■■ V- »•V ' - . •* <*u . • . • r.l-'.%V. i • ^ s . - f r ' .' ^ í - í ' ■ W : ■k .> .** / ' Ä' '^.f : w‘ ' •« tíÁ V.’ . ' - - r*. # ». * .. « V •* ir í « II « .V m. ** -- I-. .',.v_ s/» *• . •V. *‘ .4 . , i -f # 1 ^ ' >>t/ .. * fc *'V y U * ' Í- / si* — • / • i-*.' i' . .;; " V i THE BASQUES AND THEIR COUNTRY PM SS QFTNIOffS OF FIRST BDmON. “'nM puma« Mody . , n*nk • BiaayHiM i s í w t M)à «xMl»lv» raadn«. ItU acO aalatifis teoJi.ior tt mO «bx«nfe tfsv«lkn i* Oe Basque ccnsKiy t» k«ap (tetr «>*• cfMB. —/Mm Lit " It fivn Oe pncnil rwdar fut Uau IsieraailM abovt iha co«atr7 an« Ita geaple *b.c¿ «)D fwáCT « «oioARi b m n d csctnim iMo tba M#fc6ce#fcoe4 «o «mb ioiar* Mtre«.'’— ITmÍ C tmi ntU t í * AJMfctlicr ae» «nd fBUnatHtg.' — Ch*ta0t TfttmM ÈMfpfmi SdOtm. H. THE BASQUES AND THEIR COUNTRY DEALING CHIEFLY WITH THE FRENCH PROVINCES ILLUSTRATED BY P. S. ORMOND •BCOKD SDITIOM (kfVJSSP) ALL RIGHTS RSSERVED LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LIMITED 1926 F i r n E 4Ì H ^ . ^ 9>S Sftond B dtli^ (rfvw i) . J p a € M«d* »od Prinwd io C rv t ficitaiB b f Badar ft T ia w r Lcd., F m sc tB 4 L o D d c A CONTENTS CH *P. P A M 9 I H I 5T 081CA1. Norma— I. DsscWPTlv®— 2 . K o w a m s , Vascons, Fkakks and 3. Tee Encush O c c u p a t i o n — 4 . T h e K i n g d o m or K& va r b c b — 5. W aBS, PRJNCIiY PaSSAC£ 5. THB R*VOLDTIOif—• 6. W blunotom's Cam?aiqk .... 9- 4* I I X. CnARACTER AND D B £ S 9— *. PaSTIIIES— 3 . CaVAL- CADK9 AND CBAKX-VAJUS— 4 . PaSTOKALS AH1> Uascasades ...... «43~39 I I I X. L e g e n d s . S uperstttions , S o o c b r y — 2. R e l i g i o m , P a s s a o b 0 7 Pilgrim s— 3. Ahcestbai.CuI'T, I>utiE2 o r A NsiGBBOUB—4. Akceitbctues . 6d-8j I V P b l o i e ................................................................................®6-93 V St.-JBA>)'DS*LV2 ANC ClBODRE. THE FlSHlNG IN- DV6TRY VT Two BiocRAPQiES : i. Cotrrfi Dl Tsoisviuss (the O1UO2NAL OF DVMAs’ Character m the "T h ree MuSEETESSS]— 2. EtTEKNE I*ELLOT-MONTVIEUS, TBE Last Cobsair op Hbndaw . I 0 4 »X2 X B l & L I O G R A P B Y ..................................................................Z 3 3 -X 2 4 APPENDIX N o t e j . O n t h e O s i g i n o f t u b B a s q u b s . 125-X31 N o t e « , O n ( i ) N o b i l i t y a n d {2) T h e "F o r s " o r Charters o? tus B a s q v v s . i 3z -X 45 N o t e 3 . P o p u l a r T a i^ s .....................................................i 4 4 - ! 4 7 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS V A c m c PAGS S k e t c h M a p o f B a s q t t s P p o v t k c e s . x C H A m & n ;; a h d M &k o r s .............................................................................. C h u r c h Ato> F&£ic I n t s r i o s s .....................................................¿2 B a S Q IIB S C 6MB3 ............................................................................................. .............. A P&STORAL AND M&SCARADE 2K TRB PROVIKCB OP SOt}LE 56 H ouses o f Laboubd and BAssE«NAv<utB 2 . 9o C b u r c b e s o f L a b c u k d , B a 8SE-N a v a b r £ a k d S o u l b . 84 P n o T B .......................................................................................................... ....... RCDB SCUl.PTUB£ AKD WoOD CARVIKC . 98 (AU by escffit M W fV s M s / s u a .) O- f' \ . ^ • f ’ ’ ^'/.U w - - . - fni í¿ •' 'i? ' ■■ ■-'■>'■• ■• • I , ' % # l •• . ,-a< X - V * ,. *V ir' .........................‘ ‘ "•* ' ■ ->J' i ? ^ . »1* - > ^V> I ■ ». I ' » • V - > V* > í fl.» tfVÍ> .- A • t fv B S "I CH APTER 1 j, Descriptiv«— 2. Romana, Vaacons, Pranks anrt otber» 3. The EoRlisb Occupation—4- The KinpJom of Kawre— 5. W*T8, Prmtely Passages, the Revololion — <3 Wellington* t Cam pAíga. I. DBSCRIPnVE Probabi.y of a different stock to other Europeans, the Basques have a separate tongue and conservative habits pecuUar to themselves. But their unity was never national and their different provinces preserved inde­ pendence 0Í action. They nsuaUy stood together against outsiders (Romans, Goths, Franks or Moors), and to*day French and Spanish are ranked as étrangers- The three French provinces are now merely histórica], being absorbed in about a quarter of the department of the Basses'Pyrenees, while the four Spanish arc still administrative units. The Pyrenees, on meeting the sea, turn south-west through the Spanish provinces, making oí these an in­ extricable mass of gorges, mountain?, green valleys and little rivers, while the French country Ues an^ong the foothills and valleys of the north slope towards the Adour. The whole country enjoys a very equable Atlan­ tic climate ; it has a perennially green a.spect, rain is- fairly plentiful and the soil fertile. The Romans called the region “ wooded Gaul," and the mountains were densely wooded until recently when a disectóe has wrought havoc among the oaks. Apple trees and chestnuts used always to be a feature of the country. Tlie woods are iiot allowed to seed themselves, as herds of pigs consume the acoms, and the habit of cutting the bracken for bedding cuts down also the young shoots- Eveiywhere. save in the barren basin of the Ebro which actually seems to kill the vegetation along its banks, emerald fields» <douds scudding before the prevailing west wind, white, red-tiled houses dotted in scattered villages, men calling to their oxen, mountain peaks inland, or the huge breakers of the rocky coast, make a cheerful picture. While the pehle court dose to the church gives character to the villages. In France, the Labourd is the most western province ; it lies roughly between Bayonne and Hendaye, St.-Jean- de-Lxiz and Hasparren, not including Bayonne, Lapxir- dum was the Roman name for Bayonne, which took or resumed its name about the beginning of the twelfth •centuîy. During the English occupation, which began in 1152 with the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry PJantagenet, Ustariti was made the capital by Richard Cœur de Lion, who bought all the rights of the last vicomte of Labourd in 1193. Soon after (1215), Bayonne received a charter and the Labourd a bailiff whose seat was at Ustaritz, wh«e the Bilçar, the council of the mayors of the parislies, used to meet in a certain ^ak grove. The Labourd has been the most severed from the rest of the seven provinces. Espeiette and Cambo are other small towns. Next inland and more to the south comes the Basse- Navarre, part of the kingdom of Navarre before its dis­ memberment in the early sixteenth century by Ferdinand the Catholic ; it stretches roughly from St.-Jean-Pied- *de*Port, the chief town of the “ Merindad " (Navarre was divided into six merlndads), throi^h Meharin and Arberoue to St. Palais. Rome founded a settlement at St.-Jean-le-Vieux, which was early evacuated, and the heights above St.-J^-Pied-de-Port fortified ; these were described by Charles the Bad as the key of Navarre, The " gouvemeor-diàtelain de St. Jean et garde dc la Terre d'Chitre-Porte ” shared a tithe on every mill, oven and winepress with the king. The word Port is used in the Pyrenees to denote a pass. Picturesque Labastide-* Clairence, although in the province, is not Basque and does not talk Basque. Tradition says that a son of the Comte of Bigorre seduced a daughter oi a bourgeois of Rabaitens (Béam), The people, indignant, killed the son, the Comte burned down the town, and so the people sought a refuge in the Basque country. Certain it is that the kings of Navarre recognized the right of Labastide- Oairencc to the customs of Rabastens, Next, and most unspoiled by modem ways, is the province of the Soule, once a Vicomté, subject to the Duchy of Gascony, then, after the expulsion of the Eng­ lish, presented to the Vicomte of Beam by Louis XI in 1464. Its own laws or eouimms were apphed by its own court at Licharre, and such was the local spirit that the “ Kingdom " of the Soule withdrew its deputies from Paris when the French revolutionaries introduced the system of departments. Mauléon (Maloleone) was cap­ tured from the English and Navarrese in 1449 and was described as “ le plus fort chastel de Guy enne assis sur un moult hault rocq.” A member of an old Basse-Navarrese family * writes » Accordinf to the PeiiU Larousu Encychp. a " bastide ” was at town of seif^«aTUl or roTal foan<latioo. * This opiiunn of Monaieut Richard Elcbats of Beyrie is par­ ticularly ioterestiiiK as, additioo tu Unig standing tesedich w w k in the Idstory of the country and the folSlirieot of various infioeatial executive duties, he hai intimate connexk>n6 w ith Eagl^Dd, the taagu^e of wUch he speak» peri«ctly.
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