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U. S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE HENRY A. WALLACE, Secretary NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS LYMAN J. BRIGGS, Director
WOMEN’S SLIP SIZES (Woven Fabrics)
COMMERCIAL STANDARD CS121-45
Effective Date for New Production From April 20, 1945
A RECORDED VOLUNTARY STANDARD OF THE TRADE
UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON ; 1945
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office Washington 25, D. C. - Price 5 cents U. S. Department of Commerce National Bureau of Standards
PROMULGATION
of , COMMERCIAL STANDARD CS121-45
for WOMEN’S SLIP SIZES (WOVEN FABRICS)
On June 29, 1944, at the instance of the Office of Price Adminis- tration, a recommended commercial standard for women’s slips (made from woven fabrics), developed and adjusted through several con- ferences and through consultation and correspondence with industry and the trade, was circulated to producers, distributors, and users for written acceptance. Those concerned have subsequently accepted and approved the standard as shown herein, for promulgation by the U. S. Department of Commerce, through the National Bureau of Standards. The standard is effective for new production from April 20, 1945.
Promulgation recommended.
I. J. Fairchild, Chief, Division of Trade Standards. Promulgated. Lyman J. Briggs, Director, National Bureau. of Standards. Promulgation approved. Henry A. Wallace, Secretary of Commerce. I
WOMEN'S SUP SIZES (WOVEN FABRICS) COMMERCIAL STANDARD CS121^5
PURPOSE
1. The purpose of this commercial standard is to establish standard methods of measuring and standard minimum measurements for the guidance of producers, distributors,' and users of women’s slips- in order to eliminate confusion resulting from a diversity of measure- ments and methods, and to provide a uniform basis for guaranteeing full size. SCOPE
2. This standard covers standard methods of measuring and standard minimum measurements for women’s built-up shoulder, and strap-type, straight and bias cut slips, made from woven fabrics,, in sizes from 32 to 54. APPLICATION
3. The methods and measurements given herein are applicable to finished garments as delivered by the manufacturer. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
4. Method of measuring . —The garment to be measured is laid out without tension on a smooth fiat surface so that creases and wrinkles will not affect the measurements. A steel tape is recom- mended for use in making the measurements, 5. Accuracy . —Measurements are taken to the nearest one-fourth of an inch.
6. Short lengths . —Slips designated as ^‘shorts” may be 2 inches less than standard lengths, but they shall be labeled as “shorts” and carry a size designation of one-half number less than regular size, such as 3lK, 33)^, and the like.
1
630748—45 —
2 Commercial Standard CSI 21-45 STANDARD METHODS OF MEASURING WOMEN’S SLIPS
(Built-up shoulder and strap type)
7. Bust.—Measured across garment at the lower edge of armholes, twice B, figures 1 and 2. 8. Total length. 8a. Built-up shoulder type. —Measured from top of shoulder to bottom edge of garment, C, figure 1. 8b. Strap type. —Measured from top of body of garment to bottom edge of garment, ID, figure 2. 9. Armhole length. —Measured from top of armhole to lower edge of opening; A, figure 1. 10. Hips, aroundj. 10a. Built-up shoulder type. —Measured across the slip 23}^ inches below top of shoulder for sizes 32 and 34; 24 inches for sizes 36 and 38; 24K inches for sizes 40, 42, and 44; 26 inches for sizes 46 and 48; and 26 K inches below top of shoulder for sizes 50, 52, and 54, twice H, at X depth, figure 1. 10b. Strap type. —Measured across the slip 17 inches below top of body of garment for sizes 32 and 34; 17 K inches for sizes 36 and 38; 18 inches for sizes 40, 42, and 44; 18K inches for sizes 46 and 48; and 19 inches below top of body of garment for sizes 50, 52, and 54, twice H, at Y depth, figure 2. 11. Sweep, around.—Measured across bottom of garment, twice Z, figures 1 and 2.
^ z H
Figuke 1. Women's built-up shoulder type slip. .
Women’’ s Slip Sizes (Woven Fabrics) 3
^ Figure 2.— Women’s strap type slip. STANDARD MINIMUM MEASUREMENTS
12. Standard minimum measurements for women’s straight-cut built-up shoulder, straight-cut strap type, bias-cut strap type, and combination straight- and bias-cut strap-type slips are shown in tables 1 to 3.
Table 1.—Standard minimum measurements for women’s straight-cut huilt-up shoulder, and strap-type slips {see figs. 1 and 2)
Size
i^iocaiion 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Bust,' around— {B) in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. (a) Built-up shoulder... 32M W2 36^2 40M 42J4 441^ Am 50A 521^ oAVz (b) Strap type 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Total length: i - (a) Built-up s h 0 u 1 der (C) 40H 41 4114” i2V2 42K 421/2 44 44 45 45 45 (b) Strap type.. ..{D) 34 34V2 35 35 36 36 36 37 37 38 38 38 Armhole length... (A) 8H 9 9 10 10 lOM 101/2 11 11 IIM. 111/2 11^ (if with an armhole) Hips, around (H) 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 (a) Built-up shoulder at location (X) 23M 23 24 24 24H 24^ 24^^ 26 26 26A 26H 26J4 (b) Strap type, at location .(F) 17 17 17H 17?-^ 18 18 18 181^ 18^2 19 19 19 Sweep, around (Z) 491^ 51^ 53H 55H 57M 59^ 61^ 631/2 65^ 67H 69H 711^
1 According to style. (For short lengths, see par. 6.) .
4 Commercial Standard CSI 21-45
Table 2. —Standard minimum measurements for women's bias-cut strap-type slips {see fig. 2)
Location 34 32 36 38 , 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Bust, around— (B) in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. (a) Straight back. 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 (b) V back 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Total length i 34 34K 35 35 36 36 36 37 37 38 38 38 Hips, around (H) 34^ SQH 38H 4014 4214 4414 461^ 4814 50^ 5214 5414 5614 (a) At location AY) 17 17 17Vi 1714 18 18 IS isyi mv-. 19 19 19 Sweep, around .-{Z) 49M 51 ^ 5314 55^4 5714 5914 6U4 6314 6514 6714 6914 7U4
1 According to style. (For short lengths, see par. 6.)
Table 3. —Standard minimum measurements for women's combination straight- and bias-cut strap-type slips (see fig. 2)
liOcaiion 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
in. in. in. in. ' in. in. in. in. in. in. in. in. Bust --(H) 3114 3314 3514 371^2 3914 4114 4314 4514 4714 4914 5114 5314 Length ! ..(U) 34 341/2 35 35 36 36 36 37 37 38 38 38 Hips 3514 371-2 3914 4114 4314 4514 47^2 49V2 5114 5314 5514 5714 (a) At location. . -(F) 17 17 1714 1714 18 18 18 I 814 1814 19 19 19 Sweep, around.. ... -iZ) 4914 5114 5314 55;/2 5714 5914 6114 6314 6514 6714 6914 7114
1 According to style. (For short lengths, see par. 6.) LABELING
13. In order to assure the consumer that she is receiving garments that comply with standard minimum measurements, it is recom- mended that women’s slips manufactured to conform to such standard measurements be identified by a sticker, tag, or other label attached to the garment and carrying the following statement: The manufacturer guarantees the measurements of this garment as delivered to be in accordance with Commercial Standard CS121-45, as issued by the National Bureau of Standards, of the United States Department of Commerce. or more briefly Size conforms to CS121-45 EFFECTIVE DATE
14. The standard is effective for new production from April 20, 1945. STANDING COMMITTEE
15. The following individuals comprise the membership of the standing committee, which is to review, prior to circulation for acceptance, revisions proposed to keep the standard abreast of prog- ress. Comment concerning the standard and suggestions for revi- sion, may be addressed to any member of the committee or to the Women'^s Slip Sizes {Woven Fabrics) 5
DivisioD of Trade Standards, National Bureau of Standards, which acts as secretary for the committee: Oscar Cohen (chairman), Superior Petticoat Co., Inc., 105 Madison Avenue, New York 16, N. Y. Arthur Adelman, Continental Undergarment Co., Inc., 152 Madison Avenue, New York 17, N. Y. Milton Herman, Louis Herman & Co., 159 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y. Gerald Ritter, Barbizon Corporation, 475 5th Avenue, New York, N. Y. A. J. ScHNEiERSON, I. SchneiersoH & Sons, Inc., 1350 Broadway, New York 18, N. Y. Chas. W. Dorn, J. C. Penney Co., Inc., 330 West 34th Street, New York 1, N. Y. Representing National Retail Dry Goods Association. R. C. McCormack, Chicago Mail Order Co., 511 South Paulina Street, Chicago, 111. Representing Mail Order Association of America. G. Irving Bailey, American Retail Federation, 1627 K Street NW., Washington 6, D. C. E. Freedman, Macy’s, Herald Square, New York, N. Y. Mrs. M. a. Ashford, Woodward & Lothrop, 11th and F Streets NW., Wash- ington, D. C. Mrs. Margaret Kingsbury, Purchasing Office, Department of the Interior, Washington 25, D. C. Mrs. Charlotte Payne, National Council of Women of the U. S. Inc., 501 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y. Mrs. Dorothy Lyle, The Ellen H. Richards Institute, The Pennsylvania State College, State College, Pa. Mrs. Ernest H. Daniel, Broadbranch and Grant Roads NW., Washington, D. C. Representing General Federation of Women’s Clubs. HISTORY OF PROJECT
16. On October 19, 1942, the Office of Price Administration re- quested the cooperation of the National Bureau of Standards looking to the establishment of a commercial standard for women’s slips (made from woven fabrics) as a part of the effort to conserve essential material and to prevent depreciation through skimp cutting. A tenta- tive draft was developed and discussed at a preliminary conference of manufacturers on June 30, 1943, and again on September 22, 1943. The second preliminary conference approved the draft as revised and recommended that a general conference of manufacturers, distributors, and consumers be held on October 21, 1943. 17. This general conference after considering the proposed standard, requested more time to study the draft, with the result that a com- mittee of mail order representatives and retailers subsequently sub- mitted recommendations which were considered in conjunction with those from others concerned. The proposed commercial standard was revised in the light of these composite data and on June 29, 1944, the recommended commercial standard was circulated to producers, dis- tributors, and consumers for written acceptance. 18. Upon receipt of acceptances estimated to represent a satisfac- tory majority, announcement was issued on January 20, 1945, that the standard would become effective for new production from April 20, 1945.
CS121-45 ACCEPTANCE OF COMMERCIAL STANDARD
If acceptance has nol; previously been filed, this sheet properly filled in, signed, and returned will provide for the recording of your organization as an acceptor , of this commercial standard.
Date
Division of Trade Standards, National Bureau of Standards, Washington 25, D. C,
Gentlemen: We believe that the Commercial Standard CS121-45 constitutes a useful standard of practice, and we individually plan to utilize it as far as practicable in the^
^ Production ^ Distribution ^ Use ^ Testing
of women’s slips (made from woven fabrics).
line) We reserve the right to depart from it as we deem advisable. this We understand, of course, that only those articles which actually on comply with the standard in all respects can be identified or labeled
(Cut as conforming thereto.
Signature of authorized officer (In ink)
(Kindly typewrite or print the following lines)
Name and title of above officer
Organization (Fill in exactly as it should be listed)
Street address
City, Zone, and State
1 Underscore which one. Please see that separate acceptances are filed for all subsidiary companies and affiliates which should be listed separately as acceptors. In the case of related interests, trade papers, etc., desiring to record their general support, the words “General Support” should be added after the signature.
7 .
8 ommercial Standard CSI 21-45 TO THE ACCEPTOR
The following statements answer the usual questions arising in connection with the acceptance and its significance: 1. Enforcement.—Commercial standards are commodity specifica- tions voluntarily established by mutual consent ©f those concerned. They present a common basis of understanding between the producer, distributor, and consumer and should not be confused with any plan of governmental regulation or control. The United States Depart- ment of Commerce has no regulatory power in the enforcement of their provisions, but since they represent the will of the interested groups as a whole, their provisions through usage soon become estab- lished as trade customs, and are made effective through incorpora- tion into sales contracts by means of labels, invoices, and the like. 2. The acceptor’-^ responsibility.—The purpose of commercial standards is to establish for specific commodities, nationally recog- nized grades or consumer criteria and the benefits therefrom will be measurable in direct proportion to their general recognition and actual use. Instances will occur when it may be necessary to deviate from the standard and the signing of the acceptance does not preclude such departures; however, such signature indicates an intention to follow the commercial standard where practicable, in the production, distribution, or consumption of the article in question. 3. The Department’’s responsibility — The major function performed by the Department of Commerce in the voluntary establishment of commercial standards on a Nation-wide basis is fourfold: first, to act as an unbiased coordinator to bring all interested parties together for the mutually satisfactory adjustment of trade standards; second, to supply such assistance and advice as past experience with similar programs may suggest; third, to canvass and record the extent of acceptance and adherence to the standard on the part of producers, distributors, and users; and fourth, after acceptance, to publish and promulgate the standard for the information and guidance of buyers and sellers of the commodity. 4. Announcement and promulgation.—When the standard has been endorsed by a satisfactory majority of production or consumption in the absence of active, valid opposition, the success of the project is announced. If, however, in the opinion of the standing committee or the Department of Commerce, the support of any standard is inadequate, the right is reserved to withhold promulgation and publication. CS121-45 ACCEPTORS
19. The organizations listed below have individually accepted this standard for use as far as practicable in the production, distribution, testing or use of women’s slips (made from woven fabrics). In accepting the standard they re- served the right to depart therefrom as they individually deem advisable. It is expected that articles which actually comply with the requirements of this stand- ard in all respects will be regularly identified or labeled as conforming thereto, and that purchasers will require such specific evidence of conformity.
ASSOCIATIONS Enterprise & Century Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. Affiliated Ladies Apparel Carriers Association, Inc., Epstein Underwear Co., New York, N. Y. New York, N. Y. Erlick & Son, Sam, Bessemer, Ala. American Retail Federation, Washington, D. C. Fair, The, Chicago, 111. (General Support.) Falk Mercantile Co., The, Boise, Idaho. General Federation of Women’s Clubs, Washing- Fandel Co., St. Cloud, Minn. ton, D. C. Faris Brothers, New York, N. Y. National Council of Women of the U. S., Inc., New Favorite Underwear Co., New York, N. Y. York, N. Y. Form Fit Slip Co., New York, N. Y. National Retail Dry Goods Association, New York, Fray-Pruf Slip Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. N. Y. (General Support.) Friedman & Sons Co., Sol, New York, N. Y. Professional Woman’s League, Inc., New York, Gamble-Desmond Co., The, New Haven, Conn. N. Y. Garfinckel & Co., Julius, Washington, D. C. FIRMS Gay-Naden Undergarment Corporation, New York, N. Y. Abbott & Son, Inc., J., Passaic, N. J. Gertz, Inc., B., Jamaica, N. Y. Addison Underwear Co., New York, N. Y. Giddings, Colorado Springs, Colo. Advance Import Co., New York, N. Y. Gilbreath Manufacturing Co., Waco, Tex. Alms & Doepke Co., The, Cincinnati, Ohio. Gluck & Cohen, New York, N. Y. Amco Manufacturing Co., San Francisco, Calif. Goers, Theo., Carlstadt, N. J. American Manufacturing Corporation, Inc., New Goldstein, Inc., Mel, New York, N. Y. Orleans, La. (General Support.) Goodman, A. & M., New Yoi’k, N. Y. Ames & Brownley, Inc., Norfolk, Va. Gordon Garment Corporation, Bristol, Va. Anida Undergarment Co., New York, N. Y. Grant Co., W. T., New York, N. Y. Arm Revere Lingerie Co., New York, N. Y. Halpern Bael Co., New York, N. Y. Anne Undies Co., New York, N. Y. (General Sup- Hatch Textile Research, New York, N. Y. port.) Headline Undergarment Co., New York, N. Y. Atlanta Knitting Mills—Myra Joy Products (Sub- Herman & Co., Louis, New York, N. Y. sidiary), New York, N. Y. Hill Co., Web, Rapid City, S. Dak. Atlas Underwear Co., New York, N. Y. Hink & Son, J. F., Berkeley, Calif. B & B Stores, Inc., Logansport, Ind. Hogan, Inc., Daniel, Savannah, Ga. Barbizon Corporation, New York, N. Y. Horne Co., Joseph, Pittsburgh, Pa. Beckerman of Peimsylvania, Inc., Jack, Allentown, Howard
Minneapolis, City of, Board of Education, Minneap- Seamprufe, Inc., New York, N. Y. olis, Minn. Sears, Roebuck & Co., Chicago, 111., and New York, Miss Emily Lingerie, New York, N. Y. N. Y. Miss Swank, New York, N. Y. Senter, Giroux, Canniff & Co., Lewiston, Maine. Monterey Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, Shartenberg’s, Inc., New Haven, Conn. N. Y. Siren Silk Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. Montgomery Ward & Co., Chicago, 111. S L I P C O, Shelton, Conn. Moore Co., Harry C., Nevada, Mo. Smiley Co., Thomas, Portland, Maine. Munger & Co., H. G., Herkimer, N. Y. Smith-Roberts Co., Griffin, Ga. Nachman & Meertief, Montgomery, Ala. Snell, Inc., Foster D., Brooklyn, N. Y. Neiman-Marcus Co., Dallas, Tex. Society Lingerie Co., Michigan City, Ind. New Orleans, Inc., Better Business Bureau of. New South Dakota Agricultural Experiment Station, Orleans, La. (General Support.) Brookings, S. Dak. (General Support.) Palais Royal, The, Washington, D. C. Spiegel, Inc., Chicago, 111. Park Royal Lingerie Co., New York, N. Y. Springer Co., Inc., Phil, New York, N. Y. Parke Snow, Inc., Waltham, Mass, Stewart Dry Goods Co., Inc., The, Louisville, Ky, Parker Co., George A., Philadelphia, Pa. Stone Manufacturing Co., Greenville, S. C. Peck, Inc., Geo. B., Kansas City, Mo. Strauber Bros., New York, N. Y. Perm Traffic Co., Johnstown, Pa. Stukenbergs—Freeport’s Best Department Store, Penney Co., J. C., New York, N. Y. Freeport, 111. Pennsylvania State College, The, The Ellen H. Superior Petticoat Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. Richards Institute, State College, Pa. Swan Make Silk Undergarment Co., New York, Polsky Co., The A., Akron, Ohio. N. Y. Pomeroy’s, Inc., Reading, Pa. Tailored-Silk Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, Rabiner Underwear Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. N. Y. Radelle Lingerie Corporation, Astoria, Long Island, Terris Bros., Inc., New York, N. Y. N. Y. Triangle Underwear Corporation, New York, N. Y. Reiss & Son, M., Brooklyn, N. Y. United' States Testing Co., Inc., Hoboken, N. J. Rhodes Brothers Department Store, Tacoma, Wash. (General Support.) Richform Slips, Inc., New York, N. Y. Valmor Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. Rich’s, Inc., Atlanta, Ga. Venus Lingerie Co., Inc., Bridgeport, Conn. Rifkin & Sons, William, Philadelphia, Pa. Waterbury Garment Corporation, PeeksMll, N. Y. Rivoli Mills, The, Chattanooga, Tenn. Westboro Underwear Co., Westboro, Mass. Rosenthal Co., Inc., Sig., New York, N. Y. Western Department Stores d. b. a. Kahns, Oak- Roshek Brothers Co., Dubuque, Iowa. land, Calif. Roth Silk Underwear, New York, N. Y. Western Underwear Co., Minneapolis, Minn. Royal Undergarment Co., Inc., New York, N. Y. White House Department Store, The, Tucson, Ariz. Sackman Manufacturing Co., New York, N. Y. Winget Kickernick Co., Minneapolis, Minn. Sacramento, Better Business Bureau of, Sacramento, Wurzbergs of Grand Rapids, Grand Rapids, Mich. Calif. (General Support.) Woodward & Lothrop, Washington, D. C. Samette Manufacturing Co., Allentown, Pa. Yeager Co., The C. H., Akron, Ohio. Sceva Speare Co., The, Haverhill, Mass. Youth Form Lingerie Co., New York, N. Y. (Gen- Schiller Brothers, Inc., New York, N. Y. eral Support.) Schneider Co., Inc., Mitchell, New York, N. Y. Zerrer Bradley Co., Philadelphia, Pa. Schneierson & Sons, Inc., I., New York, N. Y. Zulick’s Underwear Mill, Schuylkill Haven, Pa. Schnur & Cohan, Inc., New York, N. Y. Schoonmaker & Son, Inc., John, Newburgh, N. Y. U. S. GOVERNMENT Schrank Co., M. C., Bridgeton, N. J. Scowcroft & Sons Co., John, Ogden, Utah. Agriculture, U. S. Department of, Washington, Scranton Better Business Bureau, Scranton, Pa. D. C. (General Support.) Naval Clothing Depot, Brooklyn, N. Y.