10 Ways to Sew Panties

10 WAYS TO SEW PANTIES

learn how to hack your sewing patterns and create all your favourite styles

STUDIO COSTURA patterns INTRODUCTION Karu Happy sewing! Shop onEtsy. in thise-bookarefrommyonlineshopStudioCostura andsuppliesIhaveusedvariations. Allthepatterns You youliketo makethese canuseanypantiespattern e-book. be togetherinoneplacesothat’s whyIcreatedthis my ideas!Iwantedallthosetutorialsaboutpantiesto Ilovetoshareblog aboutalteringlingeriepatterns, As youprobablyknowtherearemanytutorialsonmy create moreandversionsusingthesamebase. IlikesoI’mallabouthackingtheminordertopatterns I’m abigfanofgettingthemostoutsewing First ofall,thankyousomuchforreadingthise-book!

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CONTENTS

01 SEWING WITH FOE 4-5 02 SEWING WITH LACE TRIMS 6-8 03 LACE DETAILS I 8-10 04 LACE DETAILS II 10-12 05 DOUBLE MESH BACK 13 06 KNIT + LACE EDGES 14-16 07 KSCALLOPED LACE EDGE ON 17-18 THE WAIST

08 OVERLAPPING LACE + KNITS 19-22 09 LACE PANELS 23-25 10 PERIOD PANTIES 26-32 01 SEWING WITH FOE

First thing about FOE is that like a regular bias binding it doesn’t need seam allowance so you can take it away in the part of the panties where you’ll be using it. In the case of these panties I took away the seam allowance on the waist edge.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

Method

I prefer to sew the FOE on before closing the side seam, this way you don’t have to overlap the elastic to sew it in circle. But it’s a personal preferance so if you want to sew it in circle you can perfectly do it in a similar way you usually attach regular lingerie elastics.

First pass

Starting on one side seam put the FOE with the wrong side facing up. TIP: you can use either the shiny or matte side, you’ll decide which side is the right and whitch side is the wrong one On top of the FOE put the panties with the right side facing up and line the waist edge with the central line on the FOE. Pulling the elastic just slightly as you do with the normal lingerie elastic, sew a zig-zag stitch (2.5 width, 2.5 length) along all the edge.

4 If there’s extra fabric extending the central line you can trim that down in order to avoid bulk.

Second pass

On the right side of the panties fold the FOE over on top of the panties and sew a zig-zag stitch (2.5 width, 2.5 length) on top of it. The edge will be sandwitched between the two sides of FOE. Sew along the entire edge.

Finishing Once you have the FOE attatched you can sew the side seam. I usually first sew it on the sewing machine and then overlock the seam (optional). After sewing this seam I recommend you to push the FOE seam allowance towards the back of the panties and secure it down with some stitching. That way it will stay in it’s place and the seam will be stronger too.

This is how the finished FOE looks like. You can use the same method for both waist and for leg openings! I love using FOE for some contrast and the results look very clean.

5 02 SEWING WITH LACE TRIMS

This kind of stretch lace trims are perfect for panties and they come in a variety of styles and colors. You normally need about 1 meter of lace trim for the leg openings of one pair of panties.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

Method

Some people prefer to sew lace trim while the pantie side seams are not yet sewn together, that way it stayes flat and it’s easier to work with. I prefer to do it once the panties are sewn together because then I can avoid changing threads on my machine if I’m using different colors like in this example. You can really do it as you prefer. You don’t need to take away the seam allowances here as we’ll be anyway cutting away the extra fabric under the lace trim once the trim is sewn.

Sewing

When you sew the trim in circle start on the crotch area so the overlapping point won’t be so visible. Put the panties with the right side facing up and the lace trim with the right side facing up on top of them. The straight side of the lace trim will be aligned with the leg opening edge. Sew a zig-zag stitch (2 width, 2 length) following the (inner) curved part of the lace trim.

6 I usually pull just very slightly the trim while I sew so it won’t be loose. Once you get back to the staring point overlap the beginning of the trim by 1 cm. TIP: you can fold the ending of the lace trim under for a neat finishing

As you can see I didn’t sew the lace trim ends together yet because I want to trim the excess fabric first. I only made one row of zig-zag stitching but if you want to you can sew another parallel row too (in my experience you don’t really need to do it).

Cutting the excess fabric

Now trim away the excess fabric under the lace trim leaving a 5 mm margin from the zig-zag stitching line.

Joining the trim

Sew the lace trim overlap together using some zig-zag stitching.

7 Repeat on the other leg opening aligning the same part of the trim where you started. This way you will have a beautiful mirrored effect once everything is sewn up. I really like this type of finishings because you’ll have the comfort of knit fabrics and a beautiful detail of lace, the results look really cute!

03 LACE DETAILS I

This is one of my favourite tricks to give a different look to your pantie sewing projects. The same method works great for using up your lace leftovers as you can use very small pieces and the result is very cute.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

Cutting lace

Start with cutting out the pattern pieces from knit fabric. After that lay the lace piece on top of the pattern piece (in my case the front) and depending on the size of your lace scrap decide how you’d like to align it.

8 Cut the lace piece leaving the scalloped edge towards the center of the panties and follow the shape of the knit layer for the rest of the edges. (I usually cut the lace directly over the knit piece following the edges as the lace layer is quite transparent). Cut the other lace piece for the other edge using the mirroring method.

Pin the lace in place over the knit fabric so it won’t move around.

Sewing

Here’s the important part: in order to avoid your machine “eating” those two fairly light weight fabrics when sewing on top of them there’s a trick to use. Put a scrap of tracing paper (baking paper works well too) under the fabric and sew on top of it. The tracing papers forms a “protective layer” between your machines feed dogs and your fabric. Using a small zig-zag stitch (2 width, 2 length) sew the lace in place following the edge of the scallops. (I usually don’t do it but if you wish you can also sew together the side seam so the layers won’t move.)

After sewing tear away the tracing paper.

9 This is how the small zig-zag looks like on the wrong side of the panties.

After that just sew the panties as you usually do!

04 LACE DETAILS II

The second version of the same method is to sew together two mirrored lace pieces in order to create a beautiful detail in the center of the panties.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

10 Cutting lace

Put your lace scrap in the center front in a way you want it to align with the piece.

Cut this piece remembering that it needs to have the extra 6 mm in the center front (seam allowance) so you can sew the two pieces together: the lace piece should cover half of the center front and extend 6 mm for the seam allowance.

Cut the mirrored lace piece and sew the pieces together with right sides facing using a zig-zag stitch or an overlocker.

Sewing

In case you are using an overlocker hide the thread tails inside the seam you just made.

11 Put the lace piece in its place and pin it in place. Sew a zig-zag around the scalloped lace edges.

This is how the final result looks like: you can make it smaller or bigger, it all depends on how you like it!

You can also cut away the fabric behind the lace insert if you sew it on the waistline, this creates a pretty transparent effect!

12 05 DOUBLE MESH BACK

To make a pair like this you need stretch mesh. This material comes in different weights and as we’ll use the double layer of it (there’s the key!) I do recommend using only light weight mesh, it’s a question of comfort after all.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Mia panties

Cutting For this version use the lace version back piece but instead of cutting it as usual you’ll fold the mesh. Cut the piece putting the long straight line of the pattern piece on the fold of the mesh fabric. This means you don’t need to put the elastic on the back piece leg openings as the doube mesh already makes a pretty finishing. It’s important to use the lace pattern piece as this one doesn’t have the seam allowances for the elastics.

If you are using a pattern that doesn’t come with lace option you need to alter the back pattern piece: 1. straighten the leg opening line in order to cut it on fold 2. take away the seam allowance of the pattern on this seam as you won’t be sewing the elastic there

Sewing After cutting the back piece two times on fold just sew the pieces as usual. Maintain the back pieces well aligned and treat the folded pattern piece as one. If it slides too much (when you sew the back center seam you actually have four layers of mesh moving around) you can first sew the folded piece together and then sew as usual. And that’s it! It’s super easy and it’s the perfect hack for those who prefer not having visible pantie lines. 13 06 KNIT + LACE EDGES

A cute way to use knits together with lace is to cut the pattern pieces so you can use both materials at the same time. It’s also a great way to use narrower lace trims if you can’t cut a full pair of lace panties.

For this modification I have used the version 2 of Stella panties, you can do the same with Vera panties too.

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

Pattern modification

First you need to decide how wide you’d However you draw your lines, the side like your lace parts to be, it depends on seams have to have to have the your personal preference. same lenght. Mark a straight line from the side seam Once you have cut your pattern piece you towards the center. For the front I need to add the seam allwoances because measured 5 cm (2 in) on the side seam these pieces will be sewn back together, and 7 cm (3 in) on the center seam. For add 0.6 cm (1/4 in) to both edges. the back I measured 5 cm (2 in) on the side seam and 15 cm (6 in) on the center seam.

14 The lower lace part is now done but you need to alter the upper knit part. As this pattern piece is originally cut in tow pieces (to join two pieces of mirrored lace for either front or back) there’s a 0.6 cm (1/4 in) seam allowance on the center front. You need to take this seam allowance away and mark that you’ll now cut this piece on fold. Do the same alterations with back pieces. Mark all your pieces so you won’t get confused once you’ll be cutting out the pieces.

Sewing

Cut out the lace parts as usual following the directions to cut mirrored lace. Cut knit pieces both for front and back on fold. First pin together the lace parts and sew the central seams with zig-zag or overlocker. When using overlocker hide the threads of the lower part of the front piece inside the seam.

Once you have the lace pieces sewn together you will sew them together with the knit piece.

To make it easier to sew the corner first pin only one side and sew with zig-zag or overlock until the center seam of the lace pieces. TIP: you have to remember the 0.6 cm (1/2 in) seam allowance: stop sewing on the knit piece 0.6 cm (1/2 in) before arriving to the corner, this way you’ll be able tu turn the piece once you will sew the other side.

15 Once you have sewn together the pieces you have a full back piece. Repeat the same steps with the front and then sew the panties as indicated in the Stella/Vera panties patterns.

The final result is a pretty pair of panties!

You can vary the lenght of the knit pieces to create different styles. It’s a great way to use narrower lace trims and leftover lace from other projects.

16 07 SCALLOPED LACE EDGE ON THE WAIST

Get the best out of a pretty lace by aligning the scalloped lace edge with the waist of the panties. It’s an easy way to use up scraps!

Pattern used in this tutorial: Lili panties

Cutting Cut the front piece aligning the upper edge of the pattern piece with the lower part of the scallops. Cut as usual, just leave the scallops on the waist. For this version I also cut the front from knit fabric to line the lace piece. You can also use just lace for a more transparent look.

Sewing Pin the lining on top of the lace. The lace front is with right side looking down.

17 Sew the lingerie elastic to the waist opening just under the scallops. You are sewing on the border of the lining, this way the elastic hides the raw edge of the lining. Put the elastic with the plush side looking up and sew one row of zig-zag stitching while as always slightly pulling the elastic to create tension. You are sewing the elastic in only one pass as you won’t be folding the seam allowance under this time.

This is how the lingerie elastic looks like once it’s sewn in place.

Sew the lingerie elastic separately to the waistline of the back piece. This time you are sewing as usual with two passes of zig-zag.

And then you can finish off the panties with sewing the crotch seams and the side seams and then sewing the elastic to the leg openings.

TIP: you can secure the side seams in place with some rows of stitching on the upper and lower parts, this way the seams will stay flat.

18 08 OVERLAPPING LACE

This version is about mixing a knit front with lace back and adding a cute overlap detail. With an easy pattern adjustment you can create a cute variation!

Pattern used in this tutorial: Vera panties

Pattern modification

First you need to align together the front Now continue the lace back piece leg and the back pieces of the pattern. I have opening line on top of the front piece, just used the knit version front and the lace use your ruler to draw a straight line. version back for this variation. Also smoothen out the waist curve if you see that the it’s not a smooth curve. While maintaining the side seams parallel, overlap the pieces by 1.2 cm (1/2 in) overlaping the 0.6 cm (1/4 in) seam allwance. Mark the overlap center with a notch (you’ll need to know where the pieces overlap later on).

19 Cut out your new back piece, remembering to mark the center of the overlap with a notch. Now cut out the two back lace pieces as usual while mirroring the lace. For the front piece you actually don’t need the seam allwance on the side seams, you can take away these 0.6 cm (1/4 in). Cut the piece on fold from knit fabric.

Sewing

Start by sewing joining the front and crotch Sew the crotch seam with a zig-zag or the pieces. Put the pattern pieces in this order: overlocker. 1. crotch lining with the right side up 2. front piece with right side up 3. crotch piece with right side down

Flip the pieces in their position and you’ll have a clean finishing on that seam.

20 Sew the lingerie elastic to the leg openings as usual.

Sew together the back piece by joining the lace pieces on the center back seam. Put the back piece with right side down on your table and put the front piece on top of it with right side up. Now overlap the lace ends on top of the front piece. This is where you need to know where the side seam nothes are so you can align the pieces well.

Once you know where the lace overlap is, pin the lace piece in place on top of the front piece. Sew a zig-zag stitch on the scalloped lace edge to join the two layers. Then sew a second line of zig-zag about 1 cm (3/8 in) away from the first seam to make it stronger.

This is how the two stitch lines look on the reverse side of the panties.

21 Now cut the extra fabric off leaving about 0.6 cm (1/4 in) of seam allowance. I left this edge unfinished as knit fabrics don’t fray but if you want you can overlock the raw edge or pass another zig-zag. TIP: you can secure the lower edge where the elastic is in place with some rows of extra stitching

Repeat with the other side and then you can just sew the crotch seam and waist elastic to finish the panties.

This is how the back looks. The combination of lace and knits is very cute!

22 09 LACE PANELS

Adding lace panels to knit panties is a great way to change up the pattern. Also, you can use mesh or other knit fabrics to make panels, whatever you like the best!

Pattern used in this tutorial: Stella panties

Pattern modification

First put the front and back pattern pieces in Draw the new style lines where you’d like to a way that the side seams overlap for 1.2 have the panels. You can do it as you want cm (1/2 in)(because this pattern has 6 mm to, closer to the center or more far away, seam allowance). We’re doing it in order more or less on diagonal. Be aware of the to take away the seam allowance from one width of your lace so you’ll know how long side and the same amount from the other the line can be. side.

23 Lace panel

Cut out the panel piece. Make the upper As the scalloped lace edge is straight you part smoother if there’s a peak. now have to modify the lower part of the panel: connect the two notches you made As we’re using the scalloped lace edge and you’ll have a straight line. for the lower part we won’t need the seam allowance there. Mark notches on the sides After that add a 0.6 cm (1/4 in) seam of the panel on the lower part measuring allowance to both sides of the panel the width of your elastic (in my case I’m because you’ll need it there to sew the using a 0.6 cm (1/4 in) width elastic so this panel with the main pieces. The panel is what I’m taking away). pattern piece is now done.

Knit pieces Cutting

You have your front (A) and back (B) pieces Cut two pieces of the panel pattern piece with the new shape, now just add a 0.6 cm from lace mirroring them to get a symmetric (1/4 in) seam allowance for the new side result. Align the straight edge of the panel seams. with the lower part of the scallops. Cut the front and back on fold as always. If you put the pieces in the correct order you can see that the lace is smaller on the sides and this is correct as you haven’t sewn on the elastic to the main pieces yet.

24 Sewing

Sew the front and the back together with the crotch pieces as always following the instructions. Sew on the leg opening elastics.

Now join the side seams pinning the panel and the main pieces right sides together. If you use an overlocker leave the thread tails longer and hide them inside the seam allowance.

TIP: you can also make small bartacks on the lower part of the seam where the scallops are in order to reinforce the seams

Sew the waist opening elastic as always and the panties are ready! I really like this variation as it gives you so many possibilities to experiment with style lines and materials. TIP: you can also hack the pattern in the same way for only knit fabrics to use different fabrics to create contrasting or combining effects. In this case you don’t have to make the lower side of the panel piece straight as you will sew elastic there too. Just smoothen out the seam line and don’t take away the seam allowance. Sew the pieces together as always and then sew on the elastics.

25 10 PERIOD PANTIES

Period panties are a special kind of panties that have an absorbent layer + waterproof layer in the crotch area to prevent any leaking. This type of underwear is meant to be used as an extra protection when using tampons or cups during your period and you can even use them on their own on the first/last days of your period. It’s very easy to hack your favourite panties pattern to create period panties!

Pattern used in this tutorial: Vera panties

Supplies

• fabric you usually use for panties and • waterproof layer fold over elastic for the leg and waist the fabric that won’t let the liquid come openings through the panties: the best option is to • absorbent layer fabric use PUL fabrics (PUL stands for the fabric that will absorb all the liquid: Polyurethane Laminate and it’s a water- there are many options available, for proof but at the same time breathable example cotton, bamboo or hemp fleece fabric) knits

We offer special period panties kits at Studio Costura Shop so you can get all the supplies in one place!

26 Pattern aletartions

As you will be making the crotch lenght the pieces by 1.2 cm you have eliminated longer you need to put your pattern pieces the seam allowance (you can fold your together in a way like they would be crotch pattern piece to have everything already sewn together: this pattern has 0.6 lined up). Draw this into a separate paper. cm seam allowances so when you overlap

Now make the front and the back of the TIP: so this is my personal preference, I crotch piece longer so the absrbent area tested it out and I liked it so this is what will be bigger than your regular crotch I will probably use for all of my period pattern piece. I added 3 cm (1 1/4 in) panties. But you can of course alter your both for the front and the back piece patter in a diffrent way, adding more or (counting from where my original crotch less, maybe more on the back, less on the piece ends, without the seam allowance). front…I’d try out a pair and make adjustments if needed.

Then mark your new seam allowance for the crotch piece on both of the sides. 27 This is the new crotch piece, you can cut it out.

The back and front pieces need their new I’d recommend to cut this peiece on folded seam allowance as well, add to both paper to have the full crotch piece, it’s pieces. Note that my new crotch piece is easier to cut fabric that way. only the half of the crotch actually.

Cutting You need to cut out the front, back and the crotch piece from your main fabric. You then need to cut out the crotch piece again one time from the absorbent layer, one time from the waterproof PUL layer and one time from you inner crotch lining fabric (I use the same bamboo knit if you are using the kit from my shop).

28 Sewing First put the absorbent crotch piece on top of the waterproof fabric (with the shiny side up).

Sew about 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge to join the two layers. You can use a straight stitch as these fabrics are not stretchy.

Cut away the seam allowance on the absorbent layer, this way when you’ll sew the crotch pieces together you won’t be sewing on top of the bulky absorbent layer.

To make it easier to sew together various layers of fabric first sew together the exterior fabrics and then sew the crotch pieces together with everything on a second pass, this way the pieces won’t shift so much. Sew the front piece together right sides facing with the exterior crotch piece and do the same with the back piece.

29 Roll both the front and the back piece on top of the crotch piece until you see the seams you have just sewn together.

Put the crotch lining piece with the right side facing down on top of that.

Put the absorbent layer together with the waterproof layer on top of that (the absorbent layer is facing down and the waterproof layer is facing up).

Sew a zig-zag stitch or overlock the seams.

30 Turn your pieces right sides out and this is the enclosed crotch right there.

You are now ready to sew on the elastics and finish up the panties. I prefer sewing the fold over elastic first on the leg openings before sewing the side seams. Follow the steps described in the “Sewing with FOE” tutorial in this book.

Sewing with FOE You can also use this picot edge FOE (available at Studio Costura Shop), it’s very easy to sew. Just wrap the FOE around the raw edge of the leg opening and sew on top of that with a zig-zag stitch (2.5 lenght, 2.5 width) pulling slightly when sewing to get an even tension.

Once you are done with the leg openings you’ll go and sew one of the side seams. This way you can sew the elastic on the waist opening in the same way while it’s flat.

31 When using an overlock hide the threads inside the seam with a yarn needle.

To reduce bulk and to make the seam allowance stay flat sew a small bartack on top of the right side of the panties, pushing the seam allowance towards the back of the panties.

Now go on and attatch the waist elastic, then join the remaining side seam and you are done!

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