SEPT/OCT 2016 A must-visit street in town With the makeover of one of ’s prettiest streets finally completed, the main route from the Lower to the Upper Town is back in full swing. Radićeva street is a symbol of both Zagreb’s romantic past and its new buzzy vibe. Now together with Mesnička street, which runs parallel, it marks off the spectacular walking district of central Zagreb, including the Grič tunnel that connects both streets underground.

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Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT FIRST GOLD FROM RIO has come home. Unbeat- able discus thrower MINUTE 2 Sandra Perković, the m2 2100 m 3,2 m Get your teeth Sinković rower broth- total area wide into street food ers and sports shooter Josip Glasnović came Reap the fruits of summer back to Zagreb for a 200C on every corner of the city. summer 5,5 m victory dance. Croatia’s temperature max width September is the time for olympic delegation was corn on the cob – choose headed up by Janica 350 m long it grilled or boiled. Or stick Kostelić, winner of four Mesnička Radićeva around till October and olympic golds. then feast on scrumptious @olimpijci.hr Zagreb’s secret tunnel unveiled warm chestnuts that you’ll by see being roasted all over NEW FOUNTAINS Did you know Zagreb has an underground tunnel? the National University Originally built during WW2 and only used again the city center. Don’t wor- Library begin sprinkling as an air shelter in the Homeland War, it remained a ry if your hands get dirty, in September. Zagreb’s mystery until this summer. Once open to the public, this is part of the ritual: mayor promises more to the tunnel became a top tourist attraction, the city’s peel, walk and chew. come, the first one cur- best shortcut and the thickest shade from summer heat. 350 meters long, it connects Mesnička and rently being constructed Radićeva with an additional exit to Tomićeva, near the on the British Square. hip Art Park, and a future one in the Upper Town. Next @zagreb.hr year the tunnel turns into the Museum of the Senses. WORD FIRST DOUBLE-DECKER bus Jesen hits the streets in Sep- ZAGREB PICKPOCKETS tember. A blue roofless are out - literally. Though the (Yes-sen) tourist bus stops by 17 pickpocket gang was rumored Autumn, Herbst, attractions on the 16km- to pester Zagreb this year, the Automne, Otoño, long route, starting from fact is there have never been Outono, Autunno the corner of Vlaška and fewer theft incidents: only 41 Palmotićeva streets. recorded cases, 30 less than @infozagreb.hr last year. @mup.hr 秋, 가을, 秋 Fierce in spirit and Lilliputian in size, Zagorka received a fine compliment from Fran Supilo: “Little Zagorka, WHAT you’re a real man.” MONOVIEW WHERE September is the most WHEN Zagrebish month of all CELEBRATE YOUR TOP THREE SECRETS ABOUT ZA- ALL THINGS RETRO ZAGREB GREB... Mount , The best way to enjoy SUPERHEROES with gorgeous fall foliage, Zagreb’s Indian summer Zagorka – the seemingly dull Novi is to go retro. Hit the small woman larger than life Zagreb with socialist-style Vintage Zagreb Festival Captured in mid-stride in front of the buildings full of curious (Sept 3–10) just off the Sun Clock on Tkalčićeva street is Marija spots, and if I crave the Jelačić Square, where Jurić Zagorka, the first woman journal- Iva Silla, ist in this part of Europe who fought storyteller and taste of real bread - Tra- you can dance to the for women rights and against the founder of Secret jković bakery () 40s, 50s and 60s beats 19th-century Austro-Hungarian oppres- Zagreb, just which still uses real fire for and snag cool fashion sion. Though her male colleagues often pronounced one baking. items or accessories sneered at her history and romance of the 10 best YOUR BESTSELLING TOUR FOR FALL? such as a retro make-up novels as pulp fiction, Zagorka was and alternative city Zagreb Ghosts and Dragons tours in Europe by kit. Go all out by grow- remains the most widely read woman author of all times. The Guardian is a hit with individual visi- ing your hair and then tors who like to explore the having it cut retro style ZAGREB IS A dark side. Zagrebarium and on the spot. Witch Hunt are popular #VintageZagreb CITY OF TALES with groups. AND MEMORIES, SEPTEMBER IN ZAGREB... is the WITH A most “Zagrebish” month of all. It brings up a certain ANJA MUTIĆ TANGIBLE SOUL melancholy with cloudy Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for skies and life getting back New York Magazine and The Washington to normal after a long Post. Follow her at @everthenomad summer. The colors of Medvednica and the smell of roasted chestnuts are two things that hav- September en’t changed during my life in Zagreb. FOOD AND FILM MIXING WHERE DO YOU GO TO HIDE AWAY? I feel drawn to AND MATCHING shift Sljeme, the whispers of nature and times Gorgeous Zrinjevac park long past. I even organize a walking tour delivers another unique gaze at the Adriatic as I called Into the Woods, that goes from the end-of-summer event: I type this. It’s been nearly city center all the way to the forest trails. Food Film festival (Sept a month since I left Zagreb. I love these enchanted woods. But don’t 11–20). Foodies and In that time, I got my yearly underestimate Medvednica – although not cinephiles, bring your fix of endless blue, sea salt, high, it’s a large mountain, where you can passions together and crickets, sunburnt skin, island hide but also get lost. discover some of Za- time, backstroke at noon... In WHAT IS IT ABOUT ZAGREB THAT INSPIRES YOUR TOURS AND greb’s best restaurateurs, summertime, I tend to look QUESTS? Zagreb is a city of tales and memories, patisseries and winemak- out. Then September comes, I with a tangible soul. No matter how charm- ers. Join the gourmet return to Zagreb and slowly, a ing its center, it’s only when you step into an workshops and make sure subtle shift happens – my gaze empty alley or a forest trail that the city truly to stick around for open- turns from the outside in. resonates. As Zagreb changes fast, I wish to air film screenings (every love that shift. The slightly in- preserve this intangible heritage and share it night from 9pm) that Itrospective mode that Zagreb with curious travelers. promise to make your awakens in me come September. mouth water. @foodfilm- Though you can still feel whiffs HIDDEN ZAGREB festivalzagreb.hr of summer, the city picks up an UPPER TOWN FOR entirely different pace. GOURMETS To most people, it’s the “back Silent & secret Locals have fallen in love to school” time, the rush hour agreb guards its secrets well but we’ve with the Little Market traffic, jam-packed sidewalk ca- Zgot intel on what’s hot this month. One from the Attic, a weekly fes... If you ask, they’ll complain of the most interesting events will be kick- gathering of organic about their summer break being ing off on Sep 10, the first in the series of food producers set up over before they even blinked. Silent parties lined up for Sept. Beck’s Silent in a small loft. This sum- To most people, it marks the end experience and Secret Garden exhibition mer you can catch their of something. will take place in the verdant garden of the gourmet delights on o me, September in Zagreb Museum of Arts & Crafts. This gorgeous Wednesdays (Sept 7 & Tis an epilogue to summer. atrium will showcase a blend of audiovisual 14; 5–9pm) at the Vrany- It marks the right time to shift arts paired with tasty bites. The inaugural czany Plateau. Bring a the gaze, to begin reflection. The edition starts with DJ sets by Indy (hip blanket and sip a fruit or perfect prologue to winter. It hop and RnB), Rea (house and garage) and veggie cocktail paired will still take a couple of weeks Sin (fun, disco and 80s/90s). Three visual with a wow vista of the before the sun crosses the artists will be featuring their work at every city. #malipiknik celestial equator from north to party. The first trio will include renowned

Sanjin Kaštelan south and fall kicks off officially. graphic designers and illustrators: Vedran But for me, I already see the Klemens, Nebojša Cvetković and Ivo Matić. contours of a new beginning in The exhibit (free) opens at 10pm, the the city streets. party (40KN admission) starts at 11pm.

ZAGREB’S BEST AND MOST AFFORDABLE EATS With the abundance of fresh fruit & veg, no wonder fall is the best season for feasting. Don’t miss the traditional Restaurants Week’s (October 7–16) serious wining and dining offer: a three-course meal + glass of wine for 100KN! Pick a restaurant of your choice @tjedanrestorana.com. RECORD BREAKING SEASON Zagreb joins the ranks of the best n this so far record tourist sea- last five years nor its award as the for everyone in Zagreb’s 53 hotels, Ison for Croatia, Zagreb joins the European best destination. It’s the 50+ hostels and more than 1000 ranks of the best - Dubrovnik and aliveness and a freshly brewed buzz private apartments. There are new Istria. The city breaks the record in the streets, squares and parks attractions, too: several museums, in the number of visitors and that attracts people from all corners countless festivals, dance parties sticks to the two-digit growth. But of the world. In the past few years, and events that hardly anyone what is it that’s made Zagreb into a Korean tourists have lead in num- can keep up with, except for us at tourist capital? It’s not the number bers, followed by Germans, Italians Zagreb For You. So go out, have fun, of visitors that have shot up in the and Americans. And there’s room Zagreb is yours.

Zagreb tourism 2012–2016 Stays +34% Visitors 253,192

+12% +9% +19% * +12% +13% 128,503 128,243 +11% +15%

79,097 *First issue of Zagreb for You, July 2012 July 2013 July 2014 July 2015 July 2016 april 2015

QuiZG Day at the Alpaca Inka, born on January 1. How loud is the Lotrščak 2, was this year’s canon that fires every day at first baby. Her noon? name was chosen ANDREA PISAC a) 130 dB; b) 140 dB; c) 150 dB Zagreb Zoo is in the in the contest run throws of a real baby Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with by a children’s a twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com 2. There are more than 165,000 boom and each new magazine and the trees in Zagreb. Which is the arrival creates a public Zoo. Inka lives with oldest one? cheer and a name-giv- her mother Annika, Honestly, walk a) Plane tree in Zrinjevac park ing contest. Lion cubs father Jasper and b) Oak tree in park are the latest addition. sister Lotta. into fall through c) Redwood in Ksaver Watch them on a live neighborhood stream at livecamcro- a secret portal atia.com or visit the 3. Dinamo football team has Zoo every day till 8pm. veryone talks about the famous played at the Maksimir stadium @zoo.hr EZagreb summer lull: streets since 1948. When was the emptied out of people and, alas, cars. stadium built? They either love or hate this city a) 1912; b) 1919; c) 1906 The newest stars of the Zoo are three-month- state of mind. But to me, the passage BONUS QUESTION old lion cubs, offspring of from lull into whirl is way more How many ceramic tiles are Leo and Nyota. Catch them interesting. there on the 1903 Kallina sharpening their claws on It’s happening now as the crowds House facade, on the corner of a lion rock or exploring the Look out for a baby capuchin flock back from the coast: adults Masarykova and Gundulićeva outdoor space for most of easing back into work, kids warming streets? the day. monkey who rarely a) 100; b) 200; c) 300 leaves its mother’s up for the new school year. People side. Underneath are out and about running errands ANSWERS the capuchin-filled or catching up with friends. It makes 1. a, the canon noise is 140 dB loud, branches, you can me smile to see the city attracting us spot six little baby which comes close to being painful, like a flower does a swarm of bees. and on a clear day can be heard all coatis. the way to Novi Zagreb; 2. c, the But I’m a quiet person so I always redwood planted in 1862 is the oldest look for a passage to take me into the Spring will deliver a tree in Zagreb and only nine years new fizz gradually. younger than the oldest one in new baby wave. Expected are I walk through the city avoiding Europe; 3. a, Maksimir stadium A two-year old female opened in May 1912, and until Dinamo capybaras, the its busy squares and arteries. It’s gibbon is still a baby moved in, it was home to the HAŠK world’s biggest easy because Zagreb is full of quiet and waiting to be named. football team; BONUS b, Kallina rodents, and Daughter of Kent and Kulič- secret passages. On my way from the house, an Art Deco masterpiece Patagonian maras, Croatian National Theater to Dolac designed by Vjekoslav Bastl, was ka, she is the first newborn plus more capuchin refurbished in 2011 with 200 new and gibbon in a long time. and coati babies. market, I meander through three a number of restored ceramic tiles. amazing shortcuts: the Baković Sis- ters’ passage, Oktogon and Harmica. There’s history, great architecture and lovely shops inside, but never too many people - a perfect transi- 16.300 3,6 187700 tion into new season. is how many visitors million of exhibits are Zagreb is the name of the Zagreb Arena can take kept across all Zagreb asteroid that was discovered Tip: Stop by Oktogon and learn about museums by the Cikota brothers in 2008 the Croatian tie at Croata shop. COOL TURE ALEX CREVAR WORLD THEATER FESTIVAL features Travel writer from the United States. His work has appeared in The New York plays by directors Times, National Geographic Traveler and Thomas Ostermeier Outside magazine @AlexCrevar (Austria), Toshiki Okada (Japan) and Anne-Cecile Shed the Vandalem (Belgium). Catch them at the Croatia National weight Theater September love autumn … just the idea of it. 9–24. @hnk.hr IAnd, when I woke this morning, the air was noticeably lighter. The fall was already sweeping out the stifling haze of summer, which clung to everything—streets, café tables, city squares—for months. I even felt lighter. f course these air quality percep- Otions are my own deep-seated GANG OF FOUR play issues. I don’t have proof of a change at Tvornica Kulture in atmospheric weight, or even if on September 10. that’s a term. I’m not a meteorologist, Ever since they first or whomever it is who makes baro- played in Zagreb in metric statements. 1981, the legendary egardless, I do always feel slug- Brits always throw up Rgish at summer’s end—like I’ve a great show. been pulling against an imaginary @tvornicakulture. chain. It’s a combination of partying com too hard, desperately trying to make ORGAN OF SIGHT, the most of vacation season, and an international squeezing in a few more days on some photography festival beach to achieve both of the above. featuring young The problem: I’ve never liked the contemporary beach or lying in the sun. Truth be authors, is on at told, I don’t really like summer. the French Pavilion Autumn, however, I love. And, few September 13–24. places do autumn better than Zagreb. Find out more about n every direction, harvest season this year’s theme – Ihas started. Wine, olives, and truf- Revelations – and fles make their way into the capital. check the program on As do the people, who have been har- @organvida.com vested back from the coast. And like PIF – the ripe fruit, they come, browned by the International Puppet sun and salted by the sea. They make Theater Festival - their way back to re-cultivate their kicks off with street city relationships, have house parties, and theater shows and drink wine in sweaters on patios. on Sept 9. More than 100 performances Pro tip: Shake off the summer com- are lined up till Sept pletely. Register for the Zagreb Mara- 19. More about the thon, which takes place on October 9. festival’s 49th edition on @pif.hr. NEW IN TOWN ZGBLOG A craft beer hangout to INSIDER SHOPPING GUIDE check out Zagreb has always had Unless you had an errand to run, you’d a vibrant community of never venture out to Žitnjak in the artisans and craftsmen. drab industrial east of Zagreb. But now If you’re looking for in- there’s a very good reason – the Garden novative design and lo- Brewery. This craft beer venture by the cally handcrafted prod- team behind the Garden Festival and The ucts, pick up a copy of Garden Lounge in Zadar churns out top the neatly produced beers – like the light and laid-back Ses- Insight Design Guide, sion Ale with floral overtones and Styrian distributed at tourist Stout, a creamy beer seasoned with info points and major coffee, dark chocolate and bourbon back hotels and hostels. The notes. But it’s not just about beer here. guide also features Open 7 days a week, the former factory interviews with the ar- clad in red brick became an all-day hang- tisans, sightseeing tips out. Chow down on artisanal burgers by and city’s trends. Read Submarine BBQ, do a tour of the brewing it online facilities and get down to DJ-spun music. @insightdesignguide. If you’ve got little ones, come for the com. family-friendly Sunday sessions. YELLOW PAGE

Tuškanac Šalata

Upper Town

Pedestrian zone Kaptol The future pedestrian zone

Ilica Ban Jelačić square

Nikola Tesla street Tune into walking and Saturday špica as Zagreb’s way of life Zagreb is known as one of best clothes and meet Europe’s most walkable cities. friends for coffee; once Its streets, squares and parks you’re sitting down, watch are pleasantly made at human others do the same. Špica scale, so the very center can stretches your legs and easily be explored on foot. connects you with Zagreb Cars are few and far between and its people. in the meandering Upper Town alleyways or around the lovely Flower Square. To tune into TIPS&TRICKS Zagreb’s pedestrian spirit, hit Tkalčićeva or Bogovićeva on a ZAGREB TAXI HELP Saturday between 10am and 2pm and experience the ritual +385 1 1717 112 of špica: prance around in your EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, SEPTEMBER 1 2016) € 1 7,49; $ 1 6,72; JPY 100 6,49 Soak in the WI-FI SOLAR BENCHES healing waters of Look out for smart N solar-powered benches Zagorje where you can charge your phone and get free wi-fi The magical access. Currently set up on two Medvednica locations: in front of the Rector mountain that 45 min building at Marshal Tito Square towers over Zagreb from Zagreb and in front of the Faculty of is known for Kinesiology in Horvaćanski Zavoj. healing thermal waters. Only 35 km from the BOTANICAL city, the fairytale-pretty Zagorje GARDEN FOR FREE region showcases one of the is free oldest spa resorts - Stubičke and open every day from mor- Toplice. You can enjoy mineral- ning to dusk – a policy in opera- rich healing waters both out- tion since its opening in 1891. The and indoors, and spa treatments Garden was the city’s gift to the provided it aplenty. When you’re not kept free entrance. soaking, go walking around the dense Medvednica forests. THE MOST USEFUL CARD With Zagreb Card tourists get Visit St. Catherine chapel free transport and ticket disco- Tip: unts for more than 150 locations. on Kapelščak hill, which Daily card is 60KN, a three-day commemorates the 1573 card is 90KN. A ride on peasant uprising, and enjoy the the funicular panoramic vista of Zagorje’s is included. rolling hills.

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Register at www.nextbike.hr for only HRK79, sit and ride! N FOUR HORSEMEN OF ZAGREB LAST It takes only a short walk to notice an army St. George and the killed dragon of stunning sculptures that mark Zagreb’s MINUTE is a rare depiction cityscape. Four of this electic company are of the famous motif horsemen: national heroes who made Croatian with the already Take back history. The grand works of art representing King dead dragon and Ban Jelačić Tomislav and Duke Josip Jelačić dominate two St. George quietly Square a cupful of prominent city spots. They’ve become a praying for his wisdom recognizable city skyline that welcomes visitors into enemy. Look for it the heart of Zagreb. at the Stone Gate entrance. If Zagreb is your last stop before the new academic St. George killing the dragon looms large next to Duke Josip Jelačić year begins, spend a qui- the Croatian National Theater. Dating back to 1853, honors this 19th-century statesman who et moment by the statue the statue symbolizes the old Christian legend of the fought for the Croatian independence of Marko Marulić, the fa- good fighting the evil in the shape of a dragon. from the Habsburgs. First erected in 1866, the statue was taken down by the ther of Croatian literature Street V. Klaića Yugoslav communists and unveiled and psychology. Steeped once again in 1990. in contemplation, this gi- ant humanist guards the Street A. Hebranga Zrinjevac gorgeous State Archives building decorated with Zagreb Hippodrome four owl gargoyles. Take Zagreb horsemanship lives on at the Hippodrome, the grand a breath and let ageless equestrian center on the south wisdom rub off of you. bank of the Sava. It was modeled on the Longchamp in Paris and can accommodate all types of King Tomislav salutes everyone arriving to Zagreb by train. horse sports. Erected in 1938, the statue of the first Croatian king (reigned 910–928) is the work of Rober Frangeš-Mihanović. 4am

The airport’s roof spans over 35,000 m2 and is used for collecting OLD-SCHOOL rainwater needed for the day-to-day running of the terminal. CLUBBING IN KATRAN FACTORY As the beaches empty out, clubs are filling up. The party season kicks off on the first Saturday in September in Depo club with the line-up of good old Zagreb DJs: Cet, Kiki, Mr. Dario... Hit the old factory with brand-new clubs in Radnička street. Depo is in warehouse 3. Fun is Zagreb’s 21st-century airport guaranteed. #katran he new monumental terminal of Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman airport is finished. TJust a few tests and check-ups and it’ll be ready to welcome new planes and passengers in March. New features – 8 air bridges, 30 check-in desks, 3 km of conveyer belts, 1100 parking spots – will double its capacity to 5 million travelers. Buckle up, we’re taking off.

TASTE OF ZAGREB to fill them with cottage Unlike in cheese and get an interest- Dubrovnik and Split, powered by ing cold starter. Or simply bikini-clad tourists can Taste of Croatia add them to gourmet stroll through Zagreb sandwiches and burgers. without being fined. The When roasted Roasted red peppers are city has no official ban also the key ingredient in on minimalist outfits but peppers fill the making of one of the it also has fewer swim- the air most sacred traditional mers than its coastal n late summer, markets condiments of Southeast peers. This of course Iare full of horn-shaped Europe - ajvar. So if you might change with the red bell peppers. To make thought a pepper is just a MORE INFO growing number of use of these juicy beauties, pepper, the smell of roast- The coolest, healthiest and most affordable transport in Zagreb! fountains in Zagreb. our wise ancestors thought ed peppers filling the late Beware though, full of roasting and preserving summer air will prove you monty nudism is them in oil, garlic and spic- wrong. Many restaurants, forbidden and es. Add a bit of vinegar and like the old local favorite punishable. you get a cold salad that Okrugljak, will include works wonders as side dish roasted peppers in their for grilled meat. A more seasonal menu (35KN). 500 to adventurous approach is Kcal: 130 per serving 1000 KN is the fine for APPS indecent exposure Don't waste paper. Use it or . . or nudity on the . Croatian Meet in Zagreb Zagreb coast Zagreb be There Places