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MARCH/APRIL 2017 MARCH/APRIL The city that never stops Winter sleep is over and the European Best Advent destination is about to enter its loveliest time of year. Zagreb shows off its new airport, the soon-to-open cable car to Sljeme, heaps of new cafes, clubs and cultural spaces featuring fun that never stops. Zagreb For You unearths the freshest stories. All you need to do is hit the streets and check them out. The city is yours! INSTAGRAM* Goran Mehkek / CROPIX Mehkek Goran SPRING LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr HOW ZAGREB’S CATHEDRAL TALKABOUT BELLS TOLL FIRST Most locals know the general facts about the Zagreb SPRING HAS ARRIVED and cathedral. That it stands where an 11th-century Roman- everything is as usual: cafe ter- MINUTE esque church once stood. That it was renovated in the races are sprawling out and new SOAK UP THE BUZZ AT early 20th century by the famous architect Herman Bollé, coffee shops are popping up. But THE FLOWER SQUARE who also gave it the two 100-meter belfries. Lesser known the price of coffee is new. With Nothing reflects the flair of is that the northern belfry is 4cm higher than the southern VAT going up, coffee now costs Zagreb as much as the city’s one. And the really obscure fact is that both belfries were 1–2KN more. Still, at some places vibrant cafe culture. The supposed to be 15 centimeters lower. Bollé reworked the original design by crowning the cathedral with ornaments. the price has stayed the same. charming Flower Square Each belfry has 8 bells which toll in a particular sequence All hail to those cafes. (Cvjetni Trg) fizzes with 11 times a day, and each in its own unique tone. During #LoveZagreb laid-back cafe terraces that important feasts like Easter, all bells toll together for 15 CYCLISTS! From will quickly get you right minutes non-stop. March you can take into the city’s mood. Pick your bikes on buses. a chair, order a macchiato BELFRIES 8 BELLS The city council has and blend in with the locals. Northern Southern 5 in northern belfry, decided to allow bikes in desig- Zagreb is a place where 108.20 m 108.16 m 3 in southern belfry nated areas, which are marked savoring the journey trumps Biggest bell - Holy Trinity on each bus. The service is only arriving at the destination. from 1843, weighing 6.5 t available to those over 14. @zet.hr 8 CLOCKS SCHOOLCHILDREN will wear 3.2 m wide, weighing 600 kg uniforms after Easter break. But WORD not all of them. 108 schools in Zagreb voted “yes” while the Uskrs XII I rest have until fall to decide. Za- XI II greb’s best designers are already (oo-suh-kuh-ur-suh) offering their sketches. X Easter, Ostern, Pâques, III @zagreb.hr Pascua, Pasqua, Páscoa ŠUPA is Zagreb’s first speakeasy. IX IIII The address is secret, entry is by invite only and fun is provided by イースター V VIII top DJs. We can only reveal this: VI VII 부활절 this cool new spot is in the very center of the city. #speakeasy 复活节 WHAT MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN FOLLOW THE LIGHT INTO SPRING Festival of Lights Za- greb (March 16–19) – the first of its kind in Zagreb – will transport you ZAGREB straight into spring with SUPERHEROES many attractive audiovi- Matija Hrkać, 3-time Croatian barista champion & sual installations and light co-owner of Cogito Coffee performances. Several The first one to beat Disney Upper Town locations, in- The first ever Oscar for the best an- The lowdown on cluding the stunning Grič imated short to go to a non-US au- Tunnel, will flicker with thor landed in the hands of Dušan Croatia's coffee craze the help of state-of-the- Vukotić Vud. This pioneer of Za- art lighting technologies. greb’s animated film scene won it COFFEE IS ABOUT What makes coffee so When the sun goes down, in 1962 for his filmSurrogate . Vud central to Croatian catch these artsy rays of never thought he could beat Disney THAT SOCIAL culture? Croatians love light. Free entry. so he didn’t show up at the awards MOMENT, WHEN coffee, that’s for sure. @infozagreb.hr ceremony. Surrogate went on to re- It’s about that social CAT PERSONS PARADISE ceive many other awards. And after WE MEET moment, when we meet International Cat Show Vud declined an offer from Disney, FRIENDS, STRIKE friends, strike business (March 4–5, noon–6pm) he pressed on in his Vlaška street BUSINESS DEALS deals or just relax while is a must for cat lovers. studio. The following year his film sipping our espressos or Head over to Zagreb’s The Game also received an Oscar OR JUST RELAX lattes. It’s a custom that Westgate shopping nomination. Until the 1990s Vud WHILE SIPPING we have loved and en- center and let your heart worked on several feature films, joyed for decades now, melt at the sight of hun- taught students, wrote scripts and OUR ESPRESSOS from old coffee houses dreds of gorgeous pure continued relentlessly with anima- of the early 20th century breds and cute kittens. If tion. All of his 105 films are kept in to home coffee rituals you’re thinking of buying the Zagreb Film archives. and today’s specialty a furry feline, this is your coffee shops. chance to meet interna- Your favorite spots in Zagreb to sip cof- tional cat breeders. fee outside... Cafe u Dvorištu (a beautiful MEET THE WORLD IN hidden terrace in an old Zagreb courtyard) ZAGREB and Express (on Petrinjska, one of the International tourism liveliest streets the last couple of years). I fair Place2go features also love the terrace of Mali Kafe on Bri- 19 countries in Arena ANJA MUTIĆ tanski Trg (the British Square), especially Zagreb March 17–19. on Sunday. Entrance is free and you Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington How do visitors who frequent Cogito get to enjoy count- Post. Follow her at @everthenomad react to Zagreb? People get really less travel lectures and surprised by Zagreb, in a positive way. world food showcased They’ve heard about Croatia’s seaside at the gastro street and but they don’t expect to find Zagreb so market. If you still don’t Spring in interesting and lively. Part of that is our know where to travel coffee culture, and sidewalk cafes always next, this is the place to my step filled with people. fire up your imagination. Where in Zagreb do you like to hide away @place2go.org pring is here. In my step, on in springtime? I should probably go much SZagreb’s streets, in its skies. more to nature, especially when weather I love this annual awakening. gets brighter and sunnier after the long In winter months, the city gets winter. Maksimir park and the Zoo are cloaked in fog and grey skies and great spots to relax and enjoy a sunny day. then one day, as if by magic, it all Pair your coffee with... Ice cream! It’s a turns colorful again. hit in the summer. Our affogato has be- herry blossoms, lilacs and come really popular on hot summer days. Cmagnolias in bloom, their floral cocktail diffusing a delight- ful smell. The skies a speckless HIDDEN ZAGREB THE VERY BEST OF ART blue, save an occasional after- NOUVEAU noon shower to wash away what Cafe Corso – the new Lovers of this classy art is left of winter. movement will enjoy idewalk cafes will soon be full old coffee house the fab exhibition at Sagain and street performers very Zagreb local remembers Cafe Klovićevi Dvory gal- out on the streets. Market stalls ECorso on the corner of Ilica and lery (Feb 9–May 7): The will overflow with wild edibles, Gundulićeva streets. This cult coffeehouse Challenge of Modernity: omelets whipped up with freshly was a culture hub for decades and when it Zagreb - Vienna in About picked asparagus. Trees will closed it sent everyone into mourning. Now 1900. The show juxta- don a green coat on. There will there is a newcomer with the same name – poses work by world-cel- be fresh energy in the air, new Cafe Corso in the neighborhood of Sigečica ebrated artists such as oomph. (Rapska 35). Shaped like a glass cube, this Gustav Klimt with their sit under willow trees of my modern coffee haunt promises to rekindle Croatian counterpart like Ifavorite neighborhood café the old spark. It mixes industrial-style Bukovac and Meštrović, sipping a macchiato. There is interiors with chic vintage details. Coffee and prominent women still a nip in the air but soon even is great and so is the choice of craft beers. painters Raškaj, Rojc and that will vanish. And spring will Even waiting for a seat is classy – by the Krasnik. @gkd.hr take over. grand piano at the entrance. NEW Zagreb's 21st century airport 2016 was a record year for the Zagreb airport ter the first Croatian president Franjo Tuđman, a traffic – it welcomed 2.8 million travelers. The new hub for more than 8 million people a year. terminal is just about to open, ready to receive But size is not the only thing that matters. The airport 5 million people. Future plans include an impresses with its stunning architecture, signed by airport hotel, reachable from the city by tram.