MARCH/APRIL 2017 The city that never stops Winter sleep is over and the European Best Advent destination is about to enter its loveliest time of year. shows off its new airport, the soon-to-open cable car to Sljeme, heaps of new cafes, clubs and cultural spaces featuring fun that never stops. Zagreb For You unearths the freshest stories. All you need to do is hit the streets and check them out. The city is yours! INSTAGRAM* Goran Mehkek / CROPIX

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HOW ZAGREB’S CATHEDRAL TALKABOUT BELLS TOLL FIRST Most locals know the general facts about the Zagreb SPRING HAS ARRIVED and cathedral. That it stands where an 11th-century Roman- everything is as usual: cafe ter- MINUTE esque church once stood. That it was renovated in the races are sprawling out and new SOAK UP THE BUZZ AT early 20th century by the famous architect Herman Bollé, coffee shops are popping up. But THE FLOWER SQUARE who also gave it the two 100-meter belfries. Lesser known the price of coffee is new. With Nothing reflects the flair of is that the northern belfry is 4cm higher than the southern VAT going up, coffee now costs Zagreb as much as the city’s one. And the really obscure fact is that both belfries were 1–2KN more. Still, at some places vibrant cafe culture. The supposed to be 15 centimeters lower. Bollé reworked the original design by crowning the cathedral with ornaments. the price has stayed the same. charming Flower Square Each belfry has 8 bells which toll in a particular sequence All hail to those cafes. (Cvjetni Trg) fizzes with 11 times a day, and each in its own unique tone. During #LoveZagreb laid-back cafe terraces that important feasts like Easter, all bells toll together for 15 CYCLISTS! From will quickly get you right minutes non-stop. March you can take into the city’s mood. Pick your bikes on buses. a chair, order a macchiato BELFRIES 8 BELLS The city council has and blend in with the locals. Northern Southern 5 in northern belfry, decided to allow bikes in desig- Zagreb is a place where 108.20 m 108.16 m 3 in southern belfry nated areas, which are marked savoring the journey trumps Biggest bell - Holy Trinity on each bus. The service is only arriving at the destination. from 1843, weighing 6.5 t available to those over 14. @zet.hr 8 CLOCKS SCHOOLCHILDREN will wear 3.2 m wide, weighing 600 kg uniforms after Easter break. But WORD not all of them. 108 schools in Zagreb voted “yes” while the Uskrs XII I rest have until fall to decide. Za- XI II greb’s best designers are already (oo-suh-kuh-ur-suh) offering their sketches. X Easter, Ostern, Pâques,

III @zagreb.hr Pascua, Pasqua, Páscoa

ŠUPA is Zagreb’s first speakeasy.

IX IIII The address is secret, entry is by

invite only and fun is provided by イースター

V VIII top DJs. We can only reveal this: VI VII 부활절 this cool new spot is in the very center of the city. #speakeasy 复活节 WHAT MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN FOLLOW THE LIGHT INTO SPRING Festival of Lights Za- greb (March 16–19) – the first of its kind in Zagreb – will transport you ZAGREB straight into spring with SUPERHEROES many attractive audiovi- Matija Hrkać, 3-time Croatian barista champion & sual installations and light co-owner of Cogito Coffee performances. Several The first one to beat Disney Upper Town locations, in- The first ever Oscar for the best an- The lowdown on cluding the stunning Grič imated short to go to a non-US au- Tunnel, will flicker with thor landed in the hands of Dušan Croatia's coffee craze the help of state-of-the- Vukotić Vud. This pioneer of Za- art lighting technologies. greb’s animated scene won it COFFEE IS ABOUT What makes coffee so When the sun goes down, in 1962 for his filmSurrogate . Vud central to Croatian catch these artsy rays of never thought he could beat Disney THAT SOCIAL culture? Croatians love light. Free entry. so he didn’t show up at the awards MOMENT, WHEN coffee, that’s for sure. @infozagreb.hr ceremony. Surrogate went on to re- It’s about that social CAT PERSONS PARADISE ceive many other awards. And after WE MEET moment, when we meet International Cat Show Vud declined an offer from Disney, FRIENDS, STRIKE friends, strike business (March 4–5, noon–6pm) he pressed on in his Vlaška street BUSINESS DEALS deals or just relax while is a must for cat lovers. studio. The following year his film sipping our espressos or Head over to Zagreb’s The Game also received an Oscar OR JUST RELAX lattes. It’s a custom that Westgate shopping nomination. Until the 1990s Vud WHILE SIPPING we have loved and en- center and let your heart worked on several feature , joyed for decades now, melt at the sight of hun- taught students, wrote scripts and OUR ESPRESSOS from old coffee houses dreds of gorgeous pure continued relentlessly with anima- of the early 20th century breds and cute kittens. If tion. All of his 105 films are kept in to home coffee rituals you’re thinking of buying the archives. and today’s specialty a furry feline, this is your coffee shops. chance to meet interna- Your favorite spots in Zagreb to sip cof- tional cat breeders. fee outside... Cafe u Dvorištu (a beautiful MEET THE WORLD IN hidden terrace in an old Zagreb courtyard) ZAGREB and Express (on Petrinjska, one of the International tourism liveliest streets the last couple of years). I fair Place2go features also love the terrace of Mali Kafe on Bri- 19 countries in Arena ANJA MUTIĆ tanski Trg (the ), especially Zagreb March 17–19. on Sunday. Entrance is free and you Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington How do visitors who frequent Cogito get to enjoy count- Post. Follow her at @everthenomad react to Zagreb? People get really less travel lectures and surprised by Zagreb, in a positive way. world food showcased They’ve heard about Croatia’s seaside at the gastro street and but they don’t expect to find Zagreb so market. If you still don’t Spring in interesting and lively. Part of that is our know where to travel coffee culture, and sidewalk cafes always next, this is the place to my step filled with people. fire up your imagination. Where in Zagreb do you like to hide away @place2go.org pring is here. In my step, on in springtime? I should probably go much SZagreb’s streets, in its skies. more to nature, especially when weather I love this annual awakening. gets brighter and sunnier after the long In winter months, the city gets winter. park and the Zoo are cloaked in fog and grey skies and great spots to relax and enjoy a sunny day. then one day, as if by magic, it all Pair your coffee with... Ice cream! It’s a turns colorful again. hit in the summer. Our affogato has be- herry blossoms, lilacs and come really popular on hot summer days. Cmagnolias in bloom, their floral cocktail diffusing a delight- ful smell. The skies a speckless HIDDEN ZAGREB THE VERY BEST OF ART blue, save an occasional after- NOUVEAU noon shower to wash away what Cafe Corso – the new Lovers of this classy art is left of winter. movement will enjoy idewalk cafes will soon be full old coffee house the fab exhibition at Sagain and street performers very Zagreb local remembers Cafe Klovićevi Dvory gal- out on the streets. Market stalls ECorso on the corner of and lery (Feb 9–May 7): The will overflow with wild edibles, Gundulićeva streets. This cult coffeehouse Challenge of Modernity: omelets whipped up with freshly was a culture hub for decades and when it Zagreb - Vienna in About picked asparagus. Trees will closed it sent everyone into mourning. Now 1900. The show juxta- don a green coat on. There will there is a newcomer with the same name – poses work by world-cel- be fresh energy in the air, new Cafe Corso in the neighborhood of Sigečica ebrated artists such as oomph. (Rapska 35). Shaped like a glass cube, this Gustav Klimt with their sit under willow trees of my modern coffee haunt promises to rekindle Croatian counterpart like Ifavorite neighborhood café the old spark. It mixes industrial-style Bukovac and Meštrović, sipping a macchiato. There is interiors with chic vintage details. Coffee and prominent women still a nip in the air but soon even is great and so is the choice of craft beers. painters Raškaj, Rojc and that will vanish. And spring will Even waiting for a seat is classy – by the Krasnik. @gkd.hr take over. grand piano at the entrance. NEW Zagreb's 21st century airport

2016 was a record year for the ter the first Croatian president Franjo Tuđman, a traffic – it welcomed 2.8 million travelers. The new hub for more than 8 million people a year. terminal is just about to open, ready to receive But size is not the only thing that matters. The airport 5 million people. Future plans include an impresses with its stunning architecture, signed by airport hotel, reachable from the city by tram. Branko Kincl and his team. What looks like a dainty This will make the Zagreb airport, named af- structure with playful weight-bearing grid can actually Photo: MZLZ AIRPORT IN NUMBERS 3 km of conveyer belts 65.000 m2 of surface (11 football fields) 1100 parking spaces 5.000.000 travelers 30 check-in desks

8 airport bridges

ALL ZAGREB AIRPORTS 1909 1928 1945 Črnomerec Airport from where Borongaj Airport for Lučko Airport with a grass Penkala’s biplane took off in domestic and international airstrip that still caters to 1910 - Croatia’s first airplane flights until World War II sports airplanes

QuiZG Spring in ZG parks

1 Zagreb is a European champion in which of these Zrinjevac – the epitome of Zagreb’s ANDREA PISAC sports? old charm – is ideal for a leisurely Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with a a) basketball stroll. As you walk by the elegant twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com b) volleyball plane trees, breathe in fragrant flower c) handball blossoms. Rest on a bench and watch the world go by. Honestly, wake up 2 What is the altitude of but not too quickly Zagreb’s city center? Maksimir – Zagreb’s biggest park a) 101 meters – makes for a perfect day trip. This b) 111 meters semi-wild forest is criss-crossed with ake up but not too quicklyOne c) 122 meters idyllic trails where the city’s noise Wof the nicest things in Zagreb is quickly disappears. Don’t forget to the change of seasons. The city and its 3 Zagreb has 18 hospitals. visit the nearby Zoo. people are always in flux with countless Which one is the oldest? occasions to show off their different a) Sveti Duh Rokov Perivoj is a secluded nature b) Sestre Milosrdnice oasis perched above the busy Britanac moods as well as dresses. If you watched c) Merkur square. The uphill may be steep but a time-lapse movie of Zagreb in a year, the delicious peacefulness at the top it would be as packed with action as a BONUS QUESTION makes it worthwhile. Cool down by good thriller. And if you imagined it as a A film about a Zagreb boy the Elegy statue and fountain. calledKoko is made in how mythical storyline, the shift from winter into spring would be its arch – the mo- many sequels? Opatovina Park is just around the a) 3 corner from the popular Tkalča Street. ment when the hero meets the dragon. b) 4 When you’ve had you share of people here as other seasons flow in and c) 5 watching and coffee drinking, step Wout gradually, spring arrives with inside to steal a quiet moment and fanfare. It can take a single sunny day, ANSWERS admire the amazing Gulliver mural. 1 a, b, c, in all of them. Cibona and bam – you know winter is over. It’s basketball team, as well as the time to wake up and hit the streets. Zagreb handball team, were twice You’ll see the locals still walking slowly, European champions twice. The taking frequent coffee breaks to soak women volleyball team up the sun. But they know the slumber won the championship once. time is over and so off they swarm out. 2 c, 122 meters is the altitude of Zrinjevac park. Grič in the Upper Nothing is as sweet as that young Zagreb Town is 158 m above sea level. spring. Even when you go overboard Botanical Garden is an island of 3 a, Sveti Duh hospital is the oldest tranquillity in the city center. Stroll with the sunshine and require an after- in Croatia, operating continually noon nap to recharge. Take baby steps since 1804. among more than 10,000 plant species or rest on a bench among because the story is about to heat up. BONUS b, there are four sequels made since 2011: Koko and the an English-style arboretum with lil- Ghosts, Mysterious Boy, Koko 3 and lies-covered ponds. Opens 1st of April Tip: Get some young green vegetables at The Grill Hill Alert the and fill up on vitamins. st COOL NEW Zagreb's 21 century airport TURE defy a 9 magnitude earthquake. It is also a smart building with ZGF OR THE ZAGREB numerous solar panels and the GUITAR FESTIVAL collection of rainwater to supply will gather some of it with water for as long as 280 world’s best guitarists days a year. during the last six days of March. Expect to see the Grammy-winning Pepe Romero, jazz 3 km of conveyer belts player John Scofield and flamenco guitarist Vicente Amigo. Among the musicians from 30 different countries, there is also our own diva Ana Vidović. Check out the day program at the Student Center and the evening one in concert halls across the city. @ zagrebguitarfest.com

CATS, the original musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber, arrives from Broadway to . Catch it three nights in a row (March 22–24) and join more than 50 million people who have already seen it. Tickets 1959 @eventim.hr Zagreb Airport moves to its present location in Pleso near

ZGBLOG There’s a new portal in town MACY GRAY, winner of multiple Grammy The latest portal to hit town is Total awards, plays at Zagreb, the go-to for all things cap- Tvornica on March ital city, from best places to party, 9. This soul diva is eat, drink and rest your head to promoting her ninth events like live music gigs and off- album, Stripped, beat workshops. We love the Meet recorded live in a New the People of Zagreb section, which York City church. Starts has so far featured a Harry Potter at 9pm. More quizmaster, an opera singer and @tvornicakulture.hr a smart toy developer. Also check out Zagreb in History, with stories EXHIBITION about the city’s public transport MALKOVICH, and the history of its coffeehouses. Malkovich, Malkovich: @total-croatia-news.com/destina- Homage to tion-zagreb Photographic Masters opens on April 9 at Bačva gallery. Zagreb is the 13th city to host this traveling show by photographer Sandro Miller and actor John Malkovich. @hdlu.hr

TENOR PIOTR BECZALA, one of today’s leading opera singers, performs on March 30 in the Lisinski Concert Hall. With the excellent The Polish star is celebrated for his events calendar on interpretation of Verdi Total Zagreb, no day in and Dvorak and a real treat for opera lovers. town is the same @lisinski.hr YELLOW PAGE 8 14 4 6 12 11 7 11 13 2 Zagreb trams 1 have been around 1 17 for 125 years: 9 from the horse- drawn, connecting 12 Savska street 9 with Ilica, to 3 the electric ones creating 13 a 120 km-long public transport network. Zagreb’s 5 14 blue tram is the 17 7 6 8 2 3 city’s emblem.

Exploring Zagreb TICKETS & PRICES 30 min 4KN on a 4KN-tram 90 min 10KN ride Night ticket 15KN Day ticket 30KN Pick anywhere on the edge of Zagreb and you’ll be able to 3 Day Ticket 70KN reach the center in half an hour. 7 Day Ticket 150KN Either by hopping on a tram at Monthly Ticket 400KN the end of the line or by bus where trams don’t run. And to Funicular single 4KN get from one end of Zagreb to Sljeme cable car single another it’s never more than an hour. Now the good news is 11 KN, return 20KN that a half-an-hour tram ride costs only 4KN. Compared to a regular 10KN ticket, valid for TIPS&TRICKS 90 minutes, these blitz ones are a real hit. At the Jelačić square ZAGREB TAXI HELP kiosk, they sold 7000 in just one day. To keep up with the capital, +385 1 1777 112 Velika Gorica introduced them, EXCHANGE RATES, too. A half-an-hour ride from (BUY RATE, MARCH 3 2017) there to the Zagreb train station € 1 7,44; $ 1 7,07; JPY 100 6,19 will cost you only 4KN. GET TIED UP Croatia is the homeland of the tie (cravat). Buy this original Relive times past Croatian product in Croata salons, located at Kaptol 13 and at Trakošćan Ilica 5 (inside the Oktogon Castle N passageway). To escape the FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is Zagreb hubbub, one of Zagreb’s most head west to the 90 min recognizable souvenirs. arcadian Zagorje from Zagreb Grab yours at one of region. In this land the souvenir shops on of historic man- Bakačeva street, below the sions, Trakošćan Castle is the Cathedral. pearl which soars above forests CAN I DRINK WATER and two gorgeous lakes. As you FROM THE PUMPS? explore its preserved parlours, The old iron pumps, popularly you’ll relive the everyday life of called 'Iron Franceki' remain an Croatian nobility. The surround- image of childhood for many ing nature is a gem in itself so elderly citizens of Zagreb. Today make sure you set out on a walk the Pimp My Pump art group paint them over with symbols around the large lake. of popular culture. And, yes, the water is good for drinking. Tip: Replenish the lost calories with the THE MOST USEFUL CARD excellent štrukli at With Zagreb Card tourists get free transport and ticket disco- the visitors’ center unts for more than 150 locations. restaurant. Daily card is 98KN, a three-day card is 135KN. A ride on the funicular is included.

Don't waste paper. Use it or. . . . . N UP AND ACROSS THE ZAGREB LAST MOUNTAIN ON THE NEW CABLE MINUTE One more round before It has been 55 years since the first Zagreb cable you leaveIt’s not a round connected the city with its hilltop Sljeme – and ten years since the cable closed down. Now the of drinks but a ride around construction of the brand-new one with gondolas Zagreb’s city center. Hop has begun and it will take passengers from on tram #6 and take the Mihaljevac to the Sljeme TV tower. The cable is last round from the main slated to open next winter, with plans to also ŽIČARA - SLJEME train station to the British connect Sljeme with the other side of the mountain, Zagorje. Square. You’ll catch a glimpse of your favorite New cable sights as you choo-choo Trail Dolje-Brestovac-Sljeme by Zrinjevac park, through Length the Jelačić square and 4850 m TV tower along Ilica street. It’s city spotting at its best. Gondolas Bistra for 10 passengers

Capacity 1500 passengers per hour Rasuha Sljeme (1033m) 4am Speed Brestovac 6 m/s HEAD TO THE Ride RIVER FOR LAST c 14 min Mihaljevac (Dolje) ORDERS

twitter.com / IvanKlindic At the Sava bridge, the end of the tram line is also the end of a night out in Zagreb. At 4am, when everywhere else shuts doors, #Sidro saves the day. This yellow concrete raft is a leftover from the 1980s, when a night out on the Sava was a big hit. With a view to the Railway bridge, Sidro stays open as long as there are people inside. The music is always loud, and the booze is cheap. You can’t miss it at the Sava riverbank.

Free wi-fi is spread- ing through Zagreb. The network of wi-fi hotspots already includes stations and major squares. Now it has branched out to cover the British and Kvaternik squares as well as Črnomerec, Dubrava, Borongaj and Ljubljan- ica tram depots, and Utrina, , Savica and Trešnjevka mar- kets. The internet Sky over Zagreb. No filter speed depends on uite unexpectedly, Zagreb sky has become a big attraction. Amazing pho- the location but it Qtos of a purple sunset over Zagreb went viral on Instagram, catching the averages at 1.5 attention of international media even. The burning sky phenomenon needed no filter. The sun and the clouds were enough and, unfortunately, a few parti- cles of aerosol, too. There are 25 locations in TASTE OF ZAGREB halves, and get the juices flowing. the Zagreb wi-fi restaurants Croats don’t care for network. Next powered by compete for smaller cuts or elab- year the plan is Taste of Croatia the most ten- orate recipes. Well- to have 50 der of lamb. known pilgrimage Young lamb – The best lamb spots for lamb lovers comes from the who like their lamb the MORE INFO the herald of islands or the Lika region, classic way are restaurants spring while the nearest local Vinodol, Pod Mirnim source is Žumberak hills. Krovom and Trnjanka. ure, Zagreb is not The prevailing style is the For a modern take on this SCroatia’s lamb country old-school lamb on a spit, “old-fashioned” meat, but the smell of roast baby or slowly roasted under don’t forget to check out lamb spreading through the iron baking bell (peka). the spring menu at the hip the city’s kitchens is a sure Rub in the salt, add some Pod Zidom bistro. sign of spring. Butchers baby potatoes, rosemary Calories per 1/2kg = 1000 proudly display their fresh and optional veggies, and kcal. Price per 1kg = 250KN