Heat Wave for the Lady Vendors), Council on ‘The Together with Their Fruits Matter of the T’S 10Pm and 28°C
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Sanjin Kaštelan * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb LIMITED EDITION INSTAGRAM* FREE COPY Cool Zagreb in August No. 05 AUGUST his is why this issue takes you to cool museums (page 2), 2015. Topen-air cinemas, concerts and dance gigs, shaded ter- races of the Tkalča street and the tree-lined Stross prome- nade (page 4), hiking to the Medvednica mountain (page 4) Z and to the fresh Leafy Zagreb walking tour (page 2). We also on Facebook bring you refreshments: water from more than a hundred A century street pumps designed by the Pimp My Pump street art of light in crew, or a selection of craft beers currently trending in Zagreb The city’s electric Zagreb bars (page 4). Zagreb is definitely cool in August. power station, better known as Munjara, began Talkabout working in 1907. It was located in Zagorska street, Croatia which is still IT’S FINALLY ON: The home to electric long awaited recon- and heating plants. A few struction of the Dolac years before its market is taking place. opening, the ANJA MUTIĆ The open-air section will Mayor invited Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New the Croatia-born York Magazine and The Washington Post. close in early August, scientist Nikola Follow her at @everthenomad when most of the locals Tesla to Zagreb. are gone. Kumice (a Tesla took term of endearment the chance to instruct the city Heat wave for the lady vendors), council on ‘the together with their fruits matter of the t’s 10pm and 28°C. I am having a & veg, will move to the city electrifi- enclosed ground floor. cation.’ At 200 Iglass of cold malvazija at my local meters high (to- café-bar, under willow trees. It’s the For all of you visiting gether with the second half of July and the second Zagreb for the first time: Sljeme TV tower, apologies for missing out that is), the pow- time in my entire life I find myself in er station’s stack Zagreb this time of year. on the city’s attraction. is Zagreb and I used to think summers in Zagreb Hang in there; we prom- Croatia’s tallest are a punishment. Unless you had to, ise it’s worth the wait! construction and a fine example who would ever consider spending #Dolac of industrial a steamy August on the melting ARTY ZAGREB is the architecture. asphalt of the city? That’s when fresh route included in everything is closed and everyone is the Zagreb Be There app, meters 200 gone. Or so it felt. Like the rest of the recently acknowledged world simply slipped away. as Europe’s best. Film Then at the start of last summer, I director Dalibor Matanić, had a baby and didn’t budge for a few painter Zlatan Vehabo- months. Granted, it was unusually vić and street artist OKO TV tower tower TV rainy and cold, which back then suit- are the authors of the ed me just fine. But it was staying put newest cultural map of during the summer that helped me the city. There is also the see the city in a new light. There was New Zagreb route that 169 m 169 beauty to people being gone from charts the path from my neighborhood. I remember one Bundek (park and lake) night, I took a walk to the city center and MSU (Museum of with a friend and when we strolled Contemporary Art) to up Tkalčićeva, it was suddenly so Mamutica building and busy I could hardly navigate my Hrelić flea market. stroller through the crowd. Every- @betherezagreb.com one spoke English, the sidewalks were packed and I felt like I was in another city altogether. ne year passed. Then last night I Owent to the opening of Dvorišta (an event that opens Zagreb’s Upper Town courtyards for ten days each In competition with summer) and on my way home, Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, I spotted a just-unveiled tapas Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels restaurant, noticed a street I knew SOUTH KOREA, USA, *2014 Zagreb was the sixth well had a new buzz to it, passed by GERMANY, UK AND best destination in Europe a terrace-bar I had seen a gazillion CHINA – that’s the order times but only then noticed how of countries with the Zagreb's flora, beautiful it was... I saw such a diver- greatest number of visi- sity of people, and only few spoke tors to Zagreb this sum- a visitors' fave Croatian. I loved that it felt like I was mer. The love between WORD Based on visitors’ re- in another, foreign city. I sensed that South Korea and Zagreb views on TripAdvisor, butterfly feeling. has been going on for the Botanical Garden o who minds a heat wave when it years, mainly because Cuga was voted the most Smakes you fall in love? Bring on Zagreb was featured in (tsu-ga) interesting Zagreb the 40s (°C). I’m ready. a popular reality show. sight in 2015. Opened This year South Korea Booze, Schnaps, in 1890, this protected How to beat the heat in Zagreb Boisson is filming a sequel, their alcoolisée, monument of garden Grab a Medenko Popsi ice cream love spreading to the architecture counts Bebida and ice coffe Chemex Rwanda Nkora rest of Croatia. @za- among its highlights: a alcohólica, at Cogito Coffee (Varšavska 11). greb-touristinfo.hr Liquore, Bebida large English-style arbo- alcoólica, retum, an Art Nouveau administrative building, a French Parterre-style knot garden and a lovely stroll around a pair of lakes. Admission is free. Keep in Project touch! Download your free copy and share: 30° zagreb-touristinfo.hr zagreb4you.com what*where*when* 90 YEARS OF Quirkiest museums THE ZAGREB ZOO of Croatia's capital Sanjin Kaštelan Founded in 1925, the Zagreb Zoo Museum of Broken Relation- turns 90 this year. Located on ships When a love relationship is three small islands in the central over, we tend to dispose of every- lake of Maksimir Park, it was thing that reminds us of its failure. once a small zoo with only three When artist Dražen Grubišić and owls and three foxes. Over the film producer Olinka Vištica broke years it has grown into a home up back in 2006, they did just for more than 2225 animals, in- the opposite. They invited their cluding several rare species. This friends to donate memorabilia of year’s birthday additions include their own flunked relationships. a zebra and a red panda. A small The collection of these bizarre ob- herd of Maksimir zebras – male jects started out as a roving exhib- Gustav and females Sabine and it and even though it still travels between food and art, where Ams – will be joined by a new (it has hosted 40 exhibitions in the signature dish is homemade member. Ema the red panda ar- more than 20 countries world- bread, baked on site, paired with rived from the Dort- wide), today it also has a perma- a variety of spreads. mund Zoo and, nent home (Ćirilometodska 2). Museum of Illusions (Ilica rumor has it, she Lauba – People and Art 72) allows you to enter a world was passionate- House (Baruna Filipovića 23) ex- where nothing is as it seems. ly welcomed hibits work by Croatia’s contem- Try walking around the ‘slanted by Popi, the porary artists inside the former room’ and soon you won’t know resident three- Austro-Hungarian riding stables. if it’s the walls or your own body year-old male. One of the highlights is their that are leaning. If you peep into bistro, designed as a crossover the ‘mirror of truth,’ you’ll see yourself the way others perceive Ex-axe you, quite different from how a HOLI OPEN-AIR After he left her for someone else, a woman traditional mirror reflects. ‘This from Berlin used this is a proper mental workout for FESTIVAL axe to chop up her people of all ages,’ explains the On August 22, expect a colorful former lover's marketing director Roko Živković. party, literally, in front of the West furniture Museum of Torture (Radićeva Gate Shopping City. Thousands 14), Zagreb’s latest opening, pres- of people dressed in white will ents a unique collection of torture dance to club music. Inspired by devices dating as far back as the the traditional Indian Holi festival, ancient Greek and Roman times. better known as ‘the festival of You get a chance to ‘try out’ the color and love,’ Holi events have guillotine – a successful spread across the globe. Zagreb 1792 French replica, ex- is taking part, too. Catch a free Pink polyester perience the Pendu- ride from Zagreb plus sachets of cast of Bruce Lee, lum or the swinging powdered color. Tickets are 99KN a replica of the axe as well as witness original in Mostar, (VIP ticket is 199KN) and can be is a symbol of the ‘classic’ rack – the bought at @eventim.hr oldest torture device. NEW Get off the beaten track and into the woods eafy Zagreb walk has the Saša Pjanić best of coolness. If you’re Ltired of mainstream sightseeing – this cool alternative walk will lead you off the track and out- side the box. If you need to cool down, follow its secret forested trails to find your favorite shade in the city. Zagreb is one of Europe’s nicest walkable cities. You’ve probably noticed how easy it is to explore the whole city center on foot. But let’s take this a bit further.