Happy When It Rains
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PIXSELL * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY No. 07 OCTOBER/ INSTAGRAM* NOVEMBER 2015. Fall means not the Z on Facebook end of fun in Zagreb MIDDAY agreb fall - from end of summer to Christmastime - is TAKE-OFF all fun and games. Just look at this issue of Zagreb for Find yourself Z in Zagreb You: from busy Zagreb marathons or 13 days of Halloween unprepared at (page 2), buzz on the Medvednica mountain or at the noon sharp and Zagreb Film Festival (page 3) to the bustling Martićeva, you’ll get a fright Tomićeva and Tkalčićeva streets. The action never stops. of your life or at least a serious And it’s nowhere near Advent yet... shake-up and startle. Every day, midday is marked Talkabout by a 130dB loud cannon fire going off from the Croatia Lotrščak Tower. ZAGREB’S SPORT Though a tradi- SCENE is shaking tion since 1877, the Grič cannon with the major league still startles frenzy. Dinamo Zagreb both locals and ANJA MUTIĆ triumphed over Arsenal, visitors who think Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New and Zagreb Kiel, there’s a jet plane York Magazine and The Washington Post. taking off near Follow her at @everthenomad Cedevita and Medveščak them. Lotrščak (handball, basketball Tower was part and hockey teams of Zagreb’s me- respectively) have never dieval defense, Happy ringing the bells been stronger. If you’re each night before not at a sport court or the town gates when it stadium to share the closed. Over thrill of Zagreb’s sport time, it played multiple roles – it renaissance, check out was a chapel, rains the recently opened army arsenal, Brewdogs, a sports town winery and bar that houses 30 big fire observatory. t will soon start to rain. I’ll Climb up to Ipull out my rain boots, the flat screens and serves the top for a pile of umbrellas to color-match custom-made steak. stunning vista of my clothes, rummage through OKO (EYE) at the Mu- the city. drawers for light sweaters... I’ll seum of Contemporary Year of start to sip my morning macchiato Arts (MSU) is a construction: indoors. The air will smell of plane cutting-edge street art 13th century Height: 30m trees. Chestnut vendors will performance taking Wall thickness: roast their brown treats on street shape in real time. For 195cm corners, and each one I pass, I’ll the past month, the Grič cannon remember how my late father artist OKO has been loudness: loved them. painting a 90m-long 130dB mural covering the he skies will turn moody. western wall of the MSU TWinds will pick up. Leaves entrance. Catch her will flutter about, and get crunchy work in progress before under my feet. it’s finished on Oct 13. Find out more about oetry will sneak into my Zagreb’s best-known writing. street artist at 3oko. P blogspot.hr & about her nd as it all happens, it’ll still project at @msu.hr. Abe raining. Drop by drop. ZAGREB MAJORETTES love Zagreb when it rains. And won Europe’s In competition with I love it when sun appears gold third year Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, I Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, through a crack in the clouds one running. After OPENING Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels fall afternoon, and then it hits the victory in HOURS: *2014 Zagreb was the sixth 9am-9pm best destination in Europe puddles of water collected in the France, they did their baton magic TICKETS: creases of broken asphalt, and adults 20KN suddenly it’s all shining, the city at the Eurobasket open- children 10KN Easiest way is so pretty and it feels as if never ing. 600 of them, the to remember ever rained. oldest being 25 and the Zagreb youngest only 3, per- all is face time with Zagreb. It’s form 250 days a year. If you already picked Fwhen the city shows its true No city parade happens WORD up the usual suspects temperamental self. If you happen without them. New among Zagreb souve- to be around, give it time to take in graduates are currently nirs, like a licitar heart, the highs and the lows, the down- being auditioned for the Kiša a Šestine umbrella or a pours and the sun. It’s the pairing next line-up. More on (ki-sha) tie, look for the latest that will stick even after you leave, @mazoretkinje.hr. Rain, Regen, favorite: Meet Zagreb Zagreb’s yin and yang. ZAGREB’S MOST Pluie, Lluvia, - Memory Zagreb. This TALKED ANIMAL is Pioggia, Chuva pocket-size memory MY FALL FAVORITES Ante the anteater, a new board game features Cup of coffee at Blok Bar Zoo inhabitant and a 雨 Zagreb sights & attrac- Stroll through Maksimir as gift from the UK. Ante tions. Grab it at any sou- leaves change color needs a proper name so venir shop, bookstore or if you want to pitch your 비 city gallery. Price: 38KN. Readings at Booksa idea, enter the contest 雨 @mcroatia.com A hike up Medvednica by Oct 18. @zoo.hr Don't waste paper. Use it or . Keep in Project . touch! Download your free copy and share: 30° zagreb-touristinfo.hr zagreb4you.com what*where*when* ZAGREB CITY Get spooked during MARATHON 13 Days of Halloween Zagreb city marathon is slated to kick off on October 24, with the kids’ race running the day before. The start and finish lines are on Ban Jelačić Square. If you’re up for it, the deadline for entering is October 7. @zagreb-marathon.com ZAGREB RESTAURANT WEEK The tastiest week in Zagreb is currently on, through Oct 11. Select restaurants around the city traditionally show- case their fall culinary delights s autumn evenings set in and without charging you a bomb. Afog creeps up the Upper Town You can enjoy a three-course streets, ancient tales of mystery meal, with a glass of wine, for bubble up. Sharing stories that as little as 100KN. Pick your featured witches, dragons and favorite place at tjedanresto- ghosts was once common enter- rana.com and let the chefs do tainment for the city dwellers. The their magic. darkest of them all was the legend of the Black Queen. This ruthless sorcerer would send her giant STREET ART 2.0 raven to peck peasants to near Street art of today has gone death or throw her lovers to the beyond using a can of spray: mercy of hungry wild boars. She Traces of old Celtic people were found think digital pens, cameras, is still among us, in the form of in the Upper Town, so Halloween projectors and QR codes. Find a snake, watchfully guarding her customs go back a long time out about its history - from cursed treasure. graffiti to light art - at Street You can hear this one and many night October 19-31, and avail- Art 2.0: Innovation more legends told by the Black able in English. Tickets: 50KN; at the Heart of Queen herself when you join the free for children under 13 (must Movement. The 13 Days of Halloween walking be accompanied). exhibition is tours. The program is on every @secret-zagreb.com on at Klovićevi "After dusk, make sure you wear your socks inside out: Dvori through- out October. @ dark forces fear silly people. We’ll keep demons away with rendez-vous.hr the light from our pumpkin," - Iva Silla, tourist guide NEW 102.5 FM - frequency for real people and real art Lauba Head over to Lauba for the Superheroes 2.0 exhibition, unveiling bizarre and personal sides to Batman, Superman, Hulk and the rest of the comic books crew. @lauba.hr Sanjin Kaštelan auba – the self-dubbed ‘house Lfor people and art’ – is a former Austro-Hungarian riding stable turned contemporary art showroom. Tucked away in an industrial stretch of western Za- "People listen to us greb, this one-of-a-kind building tends to art in a way-out way. because we’re down Here, the showroom is called to earth. We’re playroom and visitors usually be- honest. There’s no come devoted members. Lauba’s botoxed reality at monumental open space gets you Yammat FM," up close and personal with art: Alen Balen, you can touch exhibits, and fol- Yammat FM music collection symbolically reaches the Yammat FM low dance performers. A hybrid number of their frequency: 102,500 tracks, and growing. director between a gallery and a museum, this vibrant hub gathers art-mak- Radio 101 from the 1990s. Even granny’s slow-cooked food.’ 102.5 ers and art-lovers, who mingle if you miss round-the-clock FM will serve you with much over coffee and wine. jokes in Croatian, their music more than the best 100s from the auba’s second-floor gallery is selection will keep you in good charts, including up-and-coming Lhome to Yammat FM, a new spirits. ‘In the world of fast- Croatian bands. Radio is art too, Zagreb radio whose hosts are food radio stations,’ says the ra- so no wonder Lauba and Yammat the legendary crew from the cult dio host Švec, ‘Yammat is your make such a good match. Food, fun & design on Martićeva street artićeva is booming. A 10-minute stroll eastbound overwhelmed by choice, chill out in their Mof the main square, this street has two brand-new newly opened and the city’s reddest café openings. An oldtimer, Divas cafe has a living room with a (literally: it’s all painted red).