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Croatia

Zagreb p64 #_ Inland p98 Kvarner p169 p125

Northern p206

Split & Central Dalmatia p237

Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia p289

Peter Dragicevich, Anthony Ham, Jessica Lee PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Croatia. . . . 4 ...... 64 ...... 153 Croatia Map...... 6 Sights...... 65 Roč...... 156 Hum...... 156 Croatia’s Top 17. . . . . 8 Tours...... 79 ...... 157 Need to Know...... 16 Festivals & Events . . . . . 81 Sleeping...... 83 Svetvinčenat...... 159 What’s New...... 18 Eating...... 85 & Rabac ...... 160 If You Like ...... 19 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 87 Month by Month. . . . . 22 Entertainment ...... 92 KVARNER...... 169 Itineraries ...... 26 Shopping...... 93 ...... 171 Outdoor Activities. . . . 36 Around Rijeka...... 176 Croatia’s Islands. . . . . 44 INLAND CROATIA. . . 98 National Park. . . 176 ...... 177 Travel with Children. . . . 52 Around Zagreb ...... 99 ...... 99 ...... 178 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 55 Mt ...... 102 Učka ...... 180 Lošinj & Islands. . .. 181 Regions at a Glance. . . . 60 Zagorje...... 103 Klanjec...... 104 Beli...... 182 Krapinske Toplice...... 104 Cres Town ...... 183 IASCIC/SHUTTERSTOCK © ...... 105 Valun...... 185 Varaždin...... 107 Lubenice ...... 186 Međimurje...... 111 Osor...... 186 ...... 112 Nerezine...... 187 Ðakovo...... 113 Mali Lošinj...... 187 ...... 114 Veli Lošinj...... 190 Baranja...... 119 Island ...... 192 ...... 121 Malinska...... 192 ...... 123 Krk Town ...... 193 ...... 195 KOPAČKI RIT NATURE PARK P119 ISTRIA...... 125 ...... 195 Baška...... 196 Istria’s West Coast. . . . 127 East Kvarner Coast . . . 198 ...... 127 JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © ...... 198 Islands...... 134 ...... 199 Vodnjan ...... 135 Island...... 200 Bale...... 136 Rab Town...... 200 ...... 137 Lopar ...... 205 Poreč ...... 143 ...... 148 Central & NORTHERN Eastern Istria ...... 150 DALMATIA...... 206 Momjan...... 150 ...... 208

VELIKI TABOR CASTLE P106 Grožnjan ...... 151 Plitvice Lakes & ...... 152 Around...... 208 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Trogir ...... 259 Croatia Today ...... 332 JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © Šolta Island...... 264 History...... 334 Stobreč & . . . . 265 The Croatian Omiš...... 265 Mindset ...... 348 Riviera. . . . . 266 Architecture ...... 352 ...... 266 Makarska...... 267 The Natural Environment...... 354 Nature Park. . . . 269 Brač Island ...... 269 The Arts...... 357 ...... 271 Bol...... 273 SEAFOOD LUNCH, VALUN P185 Island ...... 275 Hvar Town...... 276 Gospić ...... 210 Pakleni Islands...... 282 Stari Grad ...... 283 National Park ...... 211 Jelsa...... 284 SURVIVAL Island...... 213 Island...... 285 GUIDE Pag Town...... 216 Vis Town...... 286 Zrće Beach ...... 217 Komiža...... 288 Directory A–Z...... 362 Novalja...... 218 Transport...... 367 Nin ...... 219 & Language...... 371 ...... 220 SOUTHERN ...... 227 DALMATIA...... 289 Index...... 379 Veli Rat & Punta Bjanca...... 227 Dubrovnik ...... 291 Map Legend...... 383 Božava...... 228 Around Dubrovnik . . . . 314 Sali...... 228 Cavtat...... 314 Telašćica Bay ...... 229 ...... 317 Elafiti Islands ...... 317 Šibenik-Knin Region ...... 229 Island...... 318 Tisno & Island. . . . 229 Mljet National Park . . . . . 320 National Park. . . . . 230 Okuklje...... 320 SPECIAL Šibenik...... 232 Saplunara ...... 321 FEATURES Primošten...... 236 Pelješac Peninsula. . . . 321 Croatia’s Islands . . . . . 44 Rogoznica ...... 236 Ston & . . . . . 321 Lazy Days in Zagreb . . . 76 Orebić...... 323 Croatia’s Coast. . . . . 163 SPLIT & CENTRAL Korčula Island...... 324 Lazy Days in Split . . . . 252 DALMATIA...... 237 Korčula Town...... 325 ...... 329 Lazy Days in Split ...... 240 Dubrovnik...... 312 Around Split...... 258 ...... 330 Kaštela...... 258 Island. . . . . 330 Dubrovnik’s Old Town...... 306 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 ANDREYOMELYANCHUK/500PX ©

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

Trogir •# •#

Split É BOSNIA & Brač HERCEGOVINA É

•# Bol É

•# Hvar Town Hvar

É

•# Korčula Town Korčula

É

Dubrovnik •# A D R I AT I C S E A

1 WEEK Essential Croatia

night or continue on to Croatia’s exuber- This itinerary focuses on the essential ant second city Split. ’s Palace Croatian experience – a sunny island- is a living part of this seafront city, a hopping trip along the Dalmatian coast throbbing ancient quarter that’s home to stopping at three World Heritage Sites 220 historic buildings and about 3000 along the way. Conveniently, it has an people. Base yourself here for a day or international airport at each end. We’ve two of sightseeing and nightlife. envisaged it as a journey that can be Hop on a fast catamaran to Bol on the made predominantly by ferry. island of Brač (or alternatively a car ferry to Supetar and then a bus). This pretty Start with a stroll through the marbled little port is most famous for Zlatni Rat streets of the postcard-perfect walled beach – a glorious spur of pebbles that town of Trogir. Either relax here for a extends 500m into the Adriatic. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Peristil (p240), Diocletian’s Palace, Split

Next, catch the catamaran to historic catamarans from here to Dubrovnik, oth- Hvar Town, the vibrant of the erwise you’ll need to catch the car ferry island of the same name. This picturesque to Orebić on the Pelješac Peninsula and place offers an intriguing mix of European continue by bus. glamour and a raucous bar scene. Your first sight of the magnificent old From Hvar Town there are year-round town of Dubrovnik, ringed by mighty connections to Korčula Town – a highly defensive walls and the sparkling blue photogenic walled town jutting out into Adriatic, is bound to blow you away. the Adriatic on its own little peninsula. Spend the next two days taking in its From May to mid-October, there are sights. 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR It i nerar i es

HUNGARY #_ ZAGREB

SERBIA É

Plitvice Lakes •# National Park

É Pag Island •#

BOSNIA & É

É HERCEGOVINA Zadar •# É Krka National •# Park Šibenik •#

•# •# Split

Trogir É A D R I A T I C É S E A •#Hvar Town

ITALY •# É Dubrovnik Mljet •# 29 NOVAK.ELCIC/SHUTTERSTOCK © 2 WEEKS Capital to Coast

Take in the heavyweights of Croatia in this two-week journey, including the capital city, three national parks and the gems of the TRIP YOUR PLAN Dalmatian coast.

Start in the capital, Zagreb, and set aside two days to delve into its booming cafe culture, cutting-edge art scene, simmering nightlife and interesting museums. En route south, spend the

day at the World Heritage–listed Plitvice Lakes It National Park, exploring its verdant maze of i nerar turquoise lakes and cascading waterfalls. Cut down through the to the coast and cross onto Pag Island to try some i es of its famously pungent cheese and indulge in its summertime beach-club scene. Continue on to Zadar, one of Croatia’s most underrated cit- ies. It’s simultaneously ancient and modern and packed with attractions. The next day, stop en route at and do the hour-long loop along the board- walks connecting the little islands in the emerald- green river. End the outing with a swim at the lake below Skradinski Buk, the park’s largest waterfall. Continue on to Šibenik, another gem of an old town with a truly magnificent cathedral. Next day, stop at Trogir to admire the World Heritage–listed walled town sitting on its own little island, then travel south to the buzzing Dal- JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © matian city of Split for a two-day fling focused on Diocletian’s Palace. If you hired a car, return it here and hop over to chic Hvar Town by ferry for a taste of its happening nightlife and for some clothing- optional sunbathing on the Pakleni Islands, immediately offshore. Catch another ferry to Pomena on the gorgeous island of Mljet, gateway to Mljet National Park – you’ll get a great view of Korčula Town from the boat. Walk through the forest and around the salt lakes before hiring a car to drive to the eastern end of the island to spend the night. The follow- ing morning, return the car to Pomena and catch the ferry on to Dubrovnik. Spend the next two days exploring the old town’s gleaming marble lanes, vibrant street life and fine architecture. Note that the Hvar–Pomena–Dubrovnik fer- ries only operate from May to mid-October. At Top: Mljet Island (p318), other times it’s easiest to omit Mljet, ferry back Bottom: Restaurants in Zagreb’s Old Town (p85) to Split and catch the bus to Dubrovnik. 30 SIARHEI KELNIK/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES © 1 WEEK Highlights of Istria

Explore the Istrian peninsula for its coastal resorts, pretty beaches, hilltop medieval towns, top-rated food, award-winning wines and lovely rural hotels.

Start your trip in Pula, the peninsula’s coastal capital, home to a remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheatre that overlooks the city’s harbour. The Arena, as it’s known locally, once hosted gladiatorial contests with up to 20,000 spectators; today you can tour its remains and take in the small museum in the chambers downstairs. Base yourself in Pula for two days to see the smattering of other Roman ruins and take at least an afternoon to explore nearby Cape Kamenjak by bike or on foot. This en- tirely uninhabited cape, Istria’s southernmost point, features rolling hills, wildflowers (includ- ing 30 species of orchid), medicinal herbs and around 30km of virgin beaches and coves. Stop to check out the captivating town of Bale, an offbeat place and one of Istria’s best- kept secrets. Push on to Rovinj and set aside at least two days for the coast’s showpiece resort town. Its steep cobbled streets and piazzas lead up to St Euphemia’s Church, an imposing con- struction with a 60m-high tower that punctuates the peninsula. Take time to explore the verdant

beaches and some of the 14 green islands that ZVONIMIR ATLETIC/SHUTTERSTOCK© make up the Rovinj archipelago just offshore. Zip up the coast to Poreč to gape at its World Heritage–listed Euphrasian , one of Eu- rope’s finest intact examples of Byzantine archi- tecture, with magnificent 6th-century frescos. Spend the rest of your trip exploring the pen- insula’s wooded interior. Drop into music-filled Grožnjan before continuing on through to Motovun, a similarly artsy hilltop settlement known for its summer film festival. The hilltop town of Buzet, known as Istria’s truffle epicen- tre, makes for a good base for exploring the villages of Croatia’s foodie heartland. Stop to wander around the ‘world’s smallest town’, the adorable Hum. Head southwest towards Pazin to walk through the famous chasm which once inspired Jules Verne. On your way back to Pula, make a final stop to stroll through scenic Svetvinčenat, with its Renais- sance-era square and castle. Top: Roman Amphitheatre (p129), Pula Bottom: Detail from the alterpiece in the Euphrasian Basilica (p144) , Poreč 31

SLOVENIA

Buzet Grožnjan •# •# CROATIA

É •# •# Hum

É Motovun É

Poreč •# •#

Pazin

É É

Rovinj •# •# Svetvinčenat •# Bale

ADRIATIC É

SEA É

•# Pula É É

•# Cape Kamenjak 32 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

SLOVENIA

Volosko Opatija •# •# •# Rijeka CROATIA

É

Cres •# É Plitvice Lakes •# BOSNIA & National Park HERCEGOVINA

É É •#

Rab É •#Lošinj É A D R I A T I C Paklenica S E A National Park •#

Zadar É É •# 33 XBRCHX/SHUTTERSTOCK © 10 Kvarner & Northern DAYS Dalmatia

Take in the delights of Croatia’s northern TRIP YOUR PLAN coastal stretches and their wild hinterland, starting with the and moving south to northern Dalmatia with its wide spectrum of appealing sights.

Start in the capital of the Kvarner, Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city and a thriving port It

with a laid-back vibe and a lively cafe scene. i nerar Take a day to explore this undervisited city and another to visit the elegant seaside resort town of Opatija. Its beautiful belle époque villas date from the dying days of the Austro-Hungarian i es Empire, when the town was the stomping ground of the Viennese elite. While you’re at it, take time to stroll Lungomare, a picturesque path that winds along the coast through exotic bushes and thickets of bamboo to Volosko, a pretty fishing village that’s become one of Croatia’s gastronomic destinations; make sure you have lunch or dinner in one of its acclaimed restaurants. Next, hop over to one of the Kvarner islands for two days – the interconnected Cres and Lošinj are the most offbeat. Wilder, greener Cres has remote campgrounds, pristine beaches, a handful of medieval villages and an off-the- radar feel. More populated and touristy Lošinj PETRNOVACEK/SHUTTERSTOCK © sports a pair of pretty port towns, a string of beautiful bays, and lush and varied vegetation throughout, with 1100 plant species and 230 medicinal herbs, many brought from faraway lands by sea captains. Spend another two days chilling on Rab, lounging on the sandy beaches of Lopar Peninsula and exploring the postcard- pretty Rab Town with its ancient stone alleys and the four bell towers that rise from them. Back on the mainland, if you’re feeling ad- venturous, don’t miss a hike through the alpine trails and canyons of Paklenica National Park. Next head down to Zadar for an amble through this vibrant coastal city with its medley of Roman ruins, Habsburg architecture and a lovely seafront; stick around for two days to take it all in. Head back inland to spend a day exploring the dazzling natural wonderland of Plitvice Lakes National Park, with its gor- geous turquoise lakes linked by a series of wa- terfalls and cascades. Top: Rijeka (p171) Bottom: Paklenica National Park (p211) 34 Off the Beaten Track

' c c HUM PLEŠIVICA WINE ROAD Istria has many gorgeous walled Tour past wee red-roofed villages, PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN hilltop towns, but what’s particularly stopping at family-run wineries along V charming about Hum is its tiny size the way. This route is located in the Krapina•# (basically one street) and countryside west of Zagreb, 20km •# tucked-away location. (p156) LsouthJUBL ofJA theNA town#_ of Samobor. Krapinske (p102) Toplice Medvednica Nature Park SLOVENIA Samobor •# #_ ZAGREB OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Golfo di •# Trieste upa •#K Umag •# Opatija Rijeka Hum •# •# •# Poreč•# •#Pazin KVARNER ISTRIA Krk •# Rovinj •# Labin Krk Town •# •#Senj Cres •# Brijuni Plitvice Lakes Islands •# Pula Cres Otočac •# National Park Rab •# Cape Kamenjak Rab Town Lun•# Lošinj Pag •#Novalja Mali Lošinj •# Pag Town STARA BAŠKA •# Paklenica National It’s nice to know that even the busy Park island of Krk has quieter coves, such as this pebble-and-sand stretch •# Zadar accessed from a minor road heading DALMATIA Iž south from Punat. (p195) Dugi Otok Pašman Vransko •# Lake Sali Šibenik •# GARDENS OF LUNAncona •# National Zirje With a name worthy of a fantasy Park •# Primošten novel, this area near the northern tip of the island of Pag has marked walking trails through the groves and signs pointing out significantly venerable . (p219)

VRANSKO LAKE SILBA ISLAND NATURE PARK An obscure choice among the Although it’s Croatia’s largest natural multitude of Adriatic islands, Silba lake, Vransko Jezero doesn’t register nonetheless has ferry services, on many travellers’ radars – unless beaches and a legendary tower. they happen to be birdwatchers, then (p223) it’s a must-visit attraction. (p228) LAZIO 35 # 0 100 km e# 0 50 miles

Čakovec •#

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN Varaždin •# Varaždinske •# D Toplice r a •#Marija v a ca Bistrica •# rk •# Virovitica #_ Kopački Rit B Nature Park #÷ Osijek OFF THE BEATEN TRACK •# •#Našice •# Kutina •# Vukovar •# Nature Park •#Ðakovo •# Ilok Nova Slavonski •# •# Sa Gradiška Brod va •# a n U

Banja Luka S •# LONJSKO POLJE NATURE PARK An expanse of little heritage villages BOSNIA & set around a wildlife-rich swamp, right on the edge of Slavonia. (p111)

D ri na BLACA HERMITAGE A •# Knin This fascinating former monastery, Krka National hidden#_ S inA Ra AremoteJEVO valley on the Park island of Brač, can only be •# •# approached by a narrow, rocky track. Kaštela (p272) •# •# n Trogir •# •# Omiš Split •# Makarska KONAVLE Šolta Brač •# •#Bol Biokovo Hvar Town Nature Park A verdant border region of green •# •# fields hemmed by mountains and Hvar Metković Vis Town •# •# Korčula punctuated by cypresses, hiding a Town Vis •# Pelješac gorgeous beach, a remote castle and Korčula Peninsula excellent rural restaurants. (p317) Ston •# Lastovo Mljet MONTENEGRO •# Cavtat VRBOSKA Dubrovnik •# PODGORICA KONAVLE A little-visited gem on the popular #_ A island of Hvar, this wee town has a smattering of interesting attractions, Lake including an unusual fortress church, Skadar a canal and a winery. (p284) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 377

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Anthony Ham Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edi- Many thanks to Luca, Miriam, Lidija, Marija and all the tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice staff at tourist offices across the country. At Lonely and interesting anecdotes: Planet, I am grateful to my editor, Anna Tyler, for sending me to such wonderful places, and to my fellow Alberto Juan Ibanez Diaz, Bob Letteney, Catherine writers Peter and Jess for their wisdom. To my family – Fletcher, Chak Man So, Diana Rodriguez Luna, Els Marina, Jan, Carlota and Valentina: con todo mi amor. Peeters, Helen Forster, Jay Altieri, Joshua Tindall, Lee Fearnehough, Ruth Goldwyn, Stephan Brox, Tereza Jessica Lee Niznanska A big thanks to the people of Croatia for being such great company. In particular, a huge thank-you to the enthusiastic staff at the tourist information offices WRITER THANKS of Varaždin, Osijek and Zagreb County for being Peter Dragicevich founts of knowledge and helpful information, and First and foremost, I’d like to say a huge hvala to a big thank you to Anton, Irena, Mila, Tea, Tom and Vojko, Marija, Ivan, Mario and Ivana Dragičević in Zvonimir for tips and chats. Split, for the kindness and patience you’ve shown your distant cousin over the years. Many thanks to my Destination Editor, Anna Tyler, and all of the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS in-house Lonely Planet crew who have contributed Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson to this book. Special thanks to my fellow writers, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Anthony Ham and Jess Lee. Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Mljet Island, OPIS Zagreb/Shut- terstock © 378 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced Book Designer Gwen Cotter by the following: Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Anna Tyler Imogen Bannister, Kate Daly, Planet’s Croatia guide was Senior Product Editors Kate Gabrielle Innes, Jenna Myers, curated by Peter Dragicevich, Chapman, Elizabeth Jones, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin and researched and written Anne Mason Cover Researcher Wibowo by Peter, Anthony Ham and Product Editor Heather Rusli Jessica Lee. The previous Champion Thanks to Vesna Čelebić, edition was written by Peter Sandie Kestell, Susan Pater- Dragicevich, Marc Di Duca and Regional Senior Cartogra- Anthony Phelan son, Jessica Ryan Anja Mutić. pher ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 379

Index

A basketball 351 Brijuni Islands 134-5 Cathedral of St Domnius accessible travel 362 bathrooms 366 budget 17 241 accommodation 362-3, see beaches 19, 46, 167, 252-3, bus travel 367-8, 369, 374-5 Cathedral of the also individual locations 312-13 business hours 17, 364-5 Assumption (Dubrovnik) 301 agritourism 104, 161 Brač Island 271, 273 Buzet 153-6 Cathedral of the Cape Kamenjak 15, 131 camping 49, 186, 197-8 Assumption (Varaždin) children, travel with 54 Colentum Beach 229-30 C 109 hostels 49 Cres Island 182, 184, cafes 18, 76, 76-7 Church of St Anthony the nudist resorts 146, 197 185, 186 canyons 180, 230 Hermit 190 Dubrovnik 312 activities 21, 36-43, see Cape Kamenjak 15, 131, 15 Church of the Assumption Dugi Otok 228 also individual activities car travel 369-70 (Osor) 186 Hvar Island 279 air travel 367, 368 castles & fortresses 259 Church of the Assumption Krk Island 193, 195, 197 (Rab Town) 201 animals 355 City Walls & Forts (Dub- Church of Virgin Mary of aquariums 130-1 Lubenice Beach 186 rovnik) 292-3, , 292-3 Jerusalem 106 Arch of the Sergii 130, 5 266, 267 306 Collegiate Church of the archaeological sites 20-1 Mljet National Park 321 Fort Lawrence 293 Assumption 216 nudist 205, 267 Fort St Jerome 18 Arch of the Sergii 130, 5 Ðakovo Cathedral of St Pakleni Islands 282 Burnum 231-2 Fortica 276 Peter 113 Paradise Beach 205 Kotli 156 Kaštel 193-4 Euphrasian Basilica Pasjača 317 Mljet National Park 320 Kaštilac 258 144-5, 30 Roman Amphitheatre 129 Pelješac Peninsula 322, 102 Holy Cross Church 202 323 Roman floor 130 Morosini-Grimani Castle Jesuit Church of St Rab Island 205 Roman Forum 221-2 18, 159 Catherine 69, 88 Silba Island 221 262 Nehaj Castle 199 Our Lady of Church Split 252 Temple of Augustus 129 158 173 Trigor 261 Vučedol Culture Museum Sokol Grad 317 Our-Lady-of-Health 121-2 Vis Island 286 St Mark’s Cathedral 327-8 Church 245 architecture 338, 352-3 Zlatni Rat 14, 273 St Michael’s Fortress 234-5 St Anastasia’s area codes 17 Zrće Beach 217-18 Ston 322 Cathedral 222 art installations 220-1, 318 Beli 182-3 Town Museum 108 St Blaise’s Church (Dubrovnik) 301 arts 75, 78, 357-60 beer 16, 76, 76 Trakošćan Castle 14, St Blaise’s Church Artuković, Lovro 360 bicycling, see cycling 106, 14 (Vodnjan) 135-6 ATMs 364 birdwatching 15, 43, 111, 171 St Donatus’ Church 222 Augustinčić, Antun 104, 360 119-20, 183, 356, 15 106, 2 Blaca Hermitage 272 St Euphemia’s Church Zagorje region 14, 106, 14 137, 139 Blue Cave 287 cathedrals, see churches & St Francis’ Monastery & B boat tours 131, 139, 203, backpacking 49 cathedrals Church 130 223, 302 Bale 136-7 caves 102, 143, 158, 211, 213, St James’ Cathedral 234, boat travel 18, 45, 368-9, 273, 287, 354 Baranja 119-21 see also sailing 214-15 Cavtat 314-17 St Lawrence’s Cathedral Bašanija 150 Bol 14, 273-6, 47 cell phones 16, 365 260 Bašić, Nikola 220 books 332 65, 108, 271 St Lucy’s Church 196-7 Baška 196-8 border crossings 315 Central Dalmatia 62, 237-88, St Mark’s Cathedral 327 Baška Tablet 196-7 border disputes 333 238-9 St Mark’s Church 69 Bosnia & Hercegovina 346-7 children, travel with 46, St Stephen’s Božava 228 52-4, 82, 151 Cathedral 276 Map Pages 000 Brač Island 14, 269-75, 168 churches & cathedrals 352 Čigoć 111 Photo Pages 000 Brela 266-7 All Saints’ Church 328 cinema 332, 358 380 climate 16, 22, 23, 25, see Krk Island 194 food 155 Sabor 69 also individual regions Orca Diving Center 131 Labin Art Republika 160-1 Sponza Palace 301 convents & monasteries Poreč 145 Pag Carnival 217 Tvrđa 115 Benedictine Convent Rab Island 203 puppetry 82 Varaždin 107 277-8 Rovinj 139 Rijeka Carnival 22, 173-4 history 334-47, see also Dominican Monastery 273 Vis Island 286 theatre 82 individual locations Dominican Monastery & INDEX INDEX wrecks 39 films 332, 358 holidays 365 Museum 299 dolphins 181, 190, 191, 49 food 19-20, 46, 55-9, 3, 57, Hum 156-7 Dominican Monastery Hvar Island 275-85 of St Peter the Martyr Donji Humac 270 58, 215, see also indi-

,C-K  C-K 283 drinks vidual locations Hvar Town 10, 276-82, 277 Franciscan Monastery 223 beer 18, 76, 76 cooking classes 56, 131 278, 10, 44 Franciscan Monastery & coffee 10, 18 festivals 155 Museum 298-9 wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329 Istria 10 I Košljun Franciscan Dubrovnik 9, 62, 291-314, olive oil 135, 154, 219, 224 Ilok 123-4 Monastery 195 296-7, 300, 8-9, 292, oysters 322 Island 189 Krka Monastery 230-1 294-5, 306-7, 312-13 paški sir 213, 216 infectious diseases 363 Lokrum Island Benedic- accommodation 304-5 truffles 153, 154, 155, 157 inland Croatia 60, 98-124, tine Monastery 294-5 activities 302, 304 vegetarian 58, 87 100-1 Monastery of St discount cards 299 football 351 insurance 363, 370 Euphemia 204 drinking & nightlife fortresses, see castles & internet access 363-4 Mother of Mercy Fran- 309-10 fortresses internet resources 17 ciscan Monastery 231 entertainment 310 islands 44-51, 166, 50-1 credit cards 364 festivals & events 304 G Istralandia 151 Cres Island 14, 181-92, 14 food 308-9, 307 galleries, see museums & Istria 10, 61, 125-62, 126 Cres Town 183-5 history 291 galleries itineraries 26-35, 45, 26, Crikvenica 198-9 shopping 310-11 Game of Thrones 293, 28, 34-5 Crveni Otok 140 sights 291-9, 301-2, 312 302, 304 culture 332-3, 348-51 tourist information 311 gardens 74-5, 79, 283, 316 J currency 16, 364 tours 302, 304 gay travellers 90, 350, 364 Island 189 cycling 38-9, 47, 49, 368, 39 travel to/from 311, 314 Gospić 210-11 Jelsa 284-5 Dalmatia 38 travel within 314 Grabovača Cave Park 213 Gračišće 162 Danube Route 117 walking tours 293, 303, K Hvar Island 279 303 griffon vultures 182, 183, 184 178 Kvarner region 38, 181 Đuđa i Mate 319 Grohote 264 261, Lastovo Island 330 Dugi Otok 227-9 Grožnjan 151-2 164-5 Lošinj Island 188 Kaštela 258-9 Pannonian Peace Route E H kayaking 40, 47, 139, 302, 117 Elafiti Islands 317-18 health 363 304, 41 Parenzana Bike Trail 147 electricity 363 hiking 37-38, 47, 49, 38 Klančić 195 Pula 131 emergencies 17, 374 Biokovo Nature Park 269 Klanjec 104 Zagreb 81 environment 354-6 Cres Island 181, 190 Koločep 317 environmental issues 182, Hvar Island 279 Komiža 288 D 356, 363, 368 Krk Island 197 Konavle 317 dance 325, 360 etiquette 349 Lastovo Island 330 Kopački Rit Nature Park 15, dangers 365 events, see festivals & Lošinj Island 181, 188, 43, 119-21, 2, 15 Ðakovo 113-14 events 190 Korčula Island 324-30, 11 Diocletian’s Palace 12, 240- exchange rates 17 Medvednica Nature Korčula Town 11, 46, 325-9, 1, 243-4, 12, 27 Euphrasian Basilica Park 103 326 disabilities, travellers 144-5, 30 Paklenica National Kornati Islands 355 with 362 Park 211 Kornati National Park discount cards 94, 363 F Rab Island 201 230, 214 177 distilleries 124 ferry travel 369, 166 Košljun 195 Žumberak Samoborsko diving & snorkelling 39, festivals & events 22-5, , Kozjak 208 24 Gorje Nature Park 99 167, 41 see also music festivals, Krapinske Toplice 104-5 Brač Island 274 individual locations historic sites & buildings, Krapje 111 see also archaeological Brijuni Islands 135 Cest is d’Best 23 sites Krk Island 192-3, 167 Cres Island 184 Dubrovnik Summer Arsenal 277 Krk Town 193-4 Festival 304 Diocletian’s Palace 12, Krka National Park 12, film 24, 81, 82, 83, 240-1, 243-4 230-2, 12 Map Pages 000 131, 153 Krapje 111 Kumrovec 105 Photo Pages 000 Following the Cross 284 Rector’s Palace 297-8 Kvarner 61, 169-205, 170 381 L Archaeological Museum Museum of the Krapina nature parks Labin 160-2 (Split) 244 Neanderthal 106-7 Biokovo Nature Park 269 lacemaking 213, 216-17 Archaeological Museum Narona Archaeological Kopački Rit Nature Park (Zadar) 221 Museum 319 lakes 78, 208-9, 229, 15, 43, 119-21, 2, 15 236, 320 Archaeological Memorial Lonjsko Polje Nature Museum (Zagreb) 74 Centre 210-11 language 16, 357, 371-5 Park 111 Branislav Dešković Art Osor Archaeological Medvednica Nature Large Onofrio Fountain 298 INDEX Gallery 273 Collection 186-7 Park 103 Lastovo Island 330 Bukovac House 315 Pag Lace Gallery 216-17 Učka Nature Park 180-2 legal matters 364 Castle Eltz 122 Rovinj City Museum 137 Vransko Lake Nature LGBT travellers 90, 350, Cres Museum 183-4 Sacred Art Museum 261 Park 228  L-P 364 Croatian Association of St Mark’s Abbey Žumberak Samoborsko lighthouses 150, 227-8 Artists 73-4 Treasury 328 Gorje Nature Park 99 Lika 208-12, 213 Croatian Museum of Strossmayer Gallery of Nerezine 187 Limski Kanal 141 Naïve Art 65-8 Old Masters 75 nightlife 21, 46-7, see also Lipizzaner horses 114 Croatian Museum of Technical Museum individual locations literature 332, 357-8 Tourism 179 Nikola Tesla 79 Nin 219-20 Lokrum Island 294-5, 294-5 Croatian Natural History Tortureum 69 Northern Dalmatia 61, Lonjsko Polje Nature Museum 72 Tower Museum 190 206-36, 207 Park 111 Dražen Petrović Memorial Victory Museum 18, 235 Northern Velebit National Lopar 205 Museum 79 Vučedol Culture Museum Park 355 317 Ethnographic Museum 78 121-2 Novalja 218-19 Lošinj Island 181-92 Fritzy Palace 188 War Photo Limited 291-6 Novigrad 149 Lotrščak Tower & funicular Galerija Klovićevi Dvori 68 World of Insects 109 railway 68, 54 Gloria Maris 115 Zagreb 80’s Museum 69 O Lubenice 186 Grožnjan 151 music 255, 358-9 Obonjan Island 234 Lumbarda 329 Istria Historical & music festivals 23, 24, 139 Okuklje 320-1 Maritime Museum 129 Hideout 217-18 Omiš 265-6, 20 M Kumrovec Staro Selo INmusic Festival 23, 81 Museum 105 Opatija 178-80 Makarska Riviera 266-9 Music Zagreb 81 78 opening hours 17, 364-5 Mala Učka 180 Osor Musical Evenings 187 Orebić 323-4 Mali Lošinj 187-90 Lošinj Marine Education Centre 190 Outlook Festival 131 Osijek 114-19, 116 Mali Ston 321-3 Love Stories Museum Rab Musical Evenings 203 Osor 186 Malinska 192-3 18, 302 Seasplash Festival 131 maps 364 Maritime & History Sonus 218 markets 68, 93, 88 P Museum 171 St Donatus Musical Pag Island 213-19, 163 Maslinica 264 Evenings 224 Meštrović Atelier 72 Pakleni Islands 282-3 measures 365 Tisno 231 Meštrović Crikvene-­ Paklenica National Park medical services 363 Kaštilac 245 Ultra Beach 279 211-16, 33 Međimurje 111-12 Meštrović Gallery 244-5 Ultra 247 paragliding 42, 99, 198 memorials 130 Motovun: A History in Varaždin parks 74-5, 79, 283, 316 Motion 18 Evenings 109 270 passports 367 Museum Mimara 74 Mužilovčica 111 Mirogoj 65, 88-9 Pazin 157-9 Museum of Ancient Mljet Island 13, 318-21, Pelješac Peninsula 321-4 , Glass 221 13 28-9 N photography 365 Mljet National Park 13, 320 Museum of Art & Nadin 224 Crafts 78 picigin 244 mobile phones 16, 365 national parks 21, 354-5 Museum of Broken planning Momjan 150-1 Brijuni Islands 134-5 Relationships 65, 89 budgeting 17 monasteries, see convents Kornati National Park calendar of events 22-5 & monasteries Museum of 230, 214 Contemporary Art 78-9 children, travel with 46, money 16, 17, 364 Krka National Park 12, Museum of Illusion 74 52-4, 82, 151 Montenegro 315 230-2, 12 Museum of Illusions 223 Croatia basics 16-17 monuments 120, 139 Mljet National Park Museum of Modern & 13, 320 Croatia’s islands 44-51, 315 Contemporary Art 173 166, 50-1 Motovun 13, 24, 152-3, Northern Velebit Museum of Modern National Park 355 Croatia’s regions 60-2 154, 13 Art 302 Paklenica National Park internet resources 17 Mt Medvednica 102-3 Museum of Religious 211-16, 33 itineraries 26-35, 26, mummies 136 Art 223 Plitvice Lakes National 28, 34-5 Murter Island 229-30 Museum of Salt 219 Park 9, 208-9, 210, 9, outdoor activities 36-43 museums & galleries Museum of Slavonia 38, 214-15 repeat visitors 18 Antun Augustinčić Archaeology Risnjak National Park travel seasons 16-17, 22, Gallery 104 Department 115 176-7 23, 25, 45 382 plants 356 Škrip 270 Trakošćan Castle 106, 14 wildlife-watching 43, 49, Plešivica Wine Road 102 Slavonia 112-24 train travel 368, 370, 374-5 177, 181, 209 Plitvice Lakes National Park snorkelling, see diving & Tramuntana sheep 182 windsurfing 42, 47, 188, 273-4, 14 9, 208-9, 210, 9, 38, snorkelling travel to/from Croatia 17, 214-15 Šolta Island 264-5 367-8 wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329 Podstrana 265 Southern Dalmatia 62, travel within Croatia 17, wineries politics 332-3 289-330, 368-70 Brač Island 273

INDEX INDEX 290 population 333 Split 12, 62, 240-58, 242- trekking, see hiking Central Dalmatia 258-60 Poreč 143-8, 144 3, 248-9, 252-3 Trogir 259-60, 260 Ilok 124 postal services 365 accommodation 247-9 Arboretum 316 inland Croatia 102 P-Z Potomje 322 drinking & nightlife 251-4 Tučepi 268 Istria 143, 150

Premantura Peninsula 131 entertainment 255 tunnels 130 Kozlović 150  Primošten 236 festivals & events 247 turtles 188 Kvarner region 195, 196 public holidays 365 food 249-51 Međimurje 111-12 Pučišća 270 history 240 U Pelješac Wine Trail 322 Pula 127-134, 128, 30-1, shopping 255 Učka Nature Park 180-2 Plešivica Wine Road 102 Pulitika, Ðuro 360 sights 240-1, 243-5, 252 Ultra Europe 247 Slavonia 113 Punat 195 tourist information 256 Umag 148-50 Zagorje 104 tours 245 Unije Island 189 work 366 R travel to/from 256-7 Rab Island 200-5 travel within 257, 258 V Z Rab Town 200-5, 202 walking tours 246, 246 vacations 365 Zadar 13, 220-7, 222, 13, 20 Rabac 160-2 sports 351 Valun 185-6 accommodation 224-5 rafting 43, 265 St Mary’s Campanile 201 Varaždin 107-12, 108 activities 223 raptors 232 Stara Baška 195, 48 Varaždinske Toplice 109 drinking & nightlife 226 religion 333, 350 Stari Grad 283-4 vegetarian travellers 58, 87 entertainment 226 Rijeka 171-6, 172, 32-3 Stiniva 286, 36 Vela Draga 180 festivals & events 224 Risnjak National Park 176-7 Stobreč 265 Vela Luka 330 food 225 Roč 156 Stomorska 264 Veli Brijun 49 history 220 rock climbing 42, 99, 197, Ston 321-3, 165 Veli Lošinj 190-2 shopping 226 211-12, 43 Sumartin 270 Veli Rat 227-8 sights 220-3 Ročka Konoba 156 Supetar 271-2 Veliki Revelin Tower 327, 48 tourist information 226 Rogač 264 Island 189 Veliki Slap 208 tours 223-4 Rogoznica 236 Sveta Katarina 140 Veliki Tabor Castle 106, 2 travel to/from 226-7 Roman ruins 335, 352, 20, Sveta Marija 320 Verne, Jules 158 travel within 227 30-1, see also Sveti Ilija 201 Vid 319 Zagorje 14, 103-10, 14 archaeological sites Zagreb 10, 60, 64-97, , Svetvinčenat 159-62 Vidova Gora 272 66-7 70-1, 10 Rovinj 137-43, 138 swimming 37, 131, 36 Vis Island 11, 285-8, 11 accommodation 64, 83-4 299 Vis Town 286-8 children, travel with 82 S visas 16, 366 safety 365 climate 64 T Vodnjan 135-6 sailing 40, 47, 188, 40 drinking & nightlife 10, tap water 363 Volosko 177-8 76, 87-92 Sali 228-9 tax 362 volunteering 366 entertainment 92-3 Salona 262 Telašćica Bay 229 Vransko Lake Nature Park festivals & events 81-3 Samobor 99 telephone services 16, 365 228 food 64, 85-7, 28 Saplunara 321 tennis 351 Vrbnik 18, 195-6 highlights 66-7, 66-7 Sea Organ 220, 52 Tesla, Nikola 79, 210-11, 350 Vrboska 284 history 65 Senj 199 thermal springs 104-5, 109, Vukovar 121-3 LQBTIQ+ travellers 90 shopping 93-7, see also 112, 154 shopping 93, 93-7 individual locations time 16, 366 W sights 65, 68-9, 72-5, 78-9 Šibenik 232-5, 233, 164 tipping 364 walking tours, see street art 75 Šibenik-Knin region 229-36 Tisno 229-30, 231 individual locations tourist information 95 Silba Island 221 Tito, Josip Broz 105, 135, walled towns 19, 164, 178, Šipan 318 343, 344 199-200, 292-3 tours 79, 81 skiing 38, 103 toilets 366 water parks 151 travel seasons 64 Skira, Dean 130 Toreta 223 waterfalls 208, 209, 231, 354 travel to/from 95 Skradinski Buk 231, 12 tourism 332-3 weather 16, 22, 23, 25 travel within 94, 96-7 tourist information 366 weights 365 walking tours 79, 80, 80 zip lining 18, 158, 159, 197, tours 370, see also boat wildlife 355-6 213, 266, Map Pages 000 tours, individual 20 wildlife sanctuaries 182-3, zoos 79, 115 Photo Pages 000 locations 188, 213, 232 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary /Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Peter Dragicevic Istria, Central Dalmatia, Southern Dalmatia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere. Peter also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Anthony Ham Kvarner, Northern Dalmatia When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs , Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Ten years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second home. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories.

Jessica Lee Zagreb, Inland Croatia In 2011 Jessica swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing. Since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia, and she has contributed to guidebooks on , Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia and Vietnam. Her travel writing has also appeared in Wanderlust magazine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet. com. Jess has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – April 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 805 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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