AUGUST 2016 Cool fun in the hot city With fewer locals around, August in is known as slumber time. But when there is less traffic and less stress, the party levels go up too. Currently on offer: Stross promenade and Upper Town evening festivals (page 2), Grič Tunnel (page 3) to cool down during the day, beaches on and Bundek lakes (map on the last page), swimming pools (page 3), parks, clubs, new stuff in town... The whole city is yours, so get down to it!

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TALKABOUT gets ready for visitors FIRST MICHELIN launched a A medieval castle and museum perched above the city, Zagreb weekend guide, Medvedgrad is an ideal venue for movie and food festivals, the first city guide in parties and concerts a great family outing.This 13th-century MINUTE Croatia. Reaching out to fortification and the site of the Homeland Altar recently got a new Land in Zagreb French tourists, whose lease of life. You can now visit daily, except Mondays. At 593 meters of altitude, it provides a perfect respite from heat. For an and touch the sun numbers rose to 50,000 even deeper shade, stroll inside Veternica, the nearby 7km-long last year, the guide rec- cave. @pp-.hr There aren’t many places ommends an ideal three- where you can actually day break: day 1 for NUMBERS 1 chapel, 2 towers 107 owners 13,000 touch the sun. When you , day 2 for 170 meters of walls visitors in land in Zagreb, look for the museums and day 3 for 2015 famous Grounded Sun, a the Medvednica moun- sculpture by Ivan Kožarić tain. @michelin.com in Bogovićeva street. Next, TREE LINE by the Ma- search out other planets of sarykova street patis- the Zagreb Solar System. serie lost a tree during This unique installation con- the terrace extensions. nects models of all planets, Homeland Becomes The city authorities Overtaken proportional in size and instructed that a new Altar part of distance to the real thing. by king erected Medvednica 5-meter-high honey Nature Park locust tree be planted in Start of Destroyed by The chapel earthquake discovered its stead. @zagreb.hr construction CROATIA’S FIRST WORD HOSTEL WITH A POOL 1249 1590 1671 1981 1994 2010 is the new nickname of Vruće Zagreb’s best-known LEADER OF THE PACK is hostel Swanky Mint. on its own: the 17-year-old (Vroo- che) Apart from this novelty, Silver is the last remaining Hot, Heiß, Chaud, there are two new terrac- wolf in the , after Caliente, Caldo, Quente es ready to continue with having lost its brother. The the hostel’s renowned Zoo plans to introduce a new 熱い, parties. pack but not while the lone @swanky-hostel.com wolf still stands. @zoo.hr 뜨거운, 热 WHAT MONOVIEW WHERE Want to eat like a real Croatian? Eat ćušpajz WHEN ZAGREB PERFECT ZAGREB SUPERHEROES TOP FOOD ADVICE FOR VISITORS TO ZAGREB: PICNIC IN Tošo Dabac, poetic 1. Learn the differ- Want to eat alfresco and photographer who loved people ence between štrukli and lose the city crowds? Hit No one has captured Zagreb’s je ne sais štrudla – try them both 2. the gorgeous Maksimir quoi as poetically as the iconic 20th-century Buy fresh milk cheese and park every Saturday (Jun photographer Tošo Dabac. He spent 50 try it first with top-quality 18–Sept 9; 10am-5pm) years chronicling Zagreb’s streets, corners and cafes, and especially people in them. olive oil from Istria, and and look for people with Željka His work was widely shown, from Vienna to Klemenčić, then with some pumpkin picnic baskets at the New York. Dabac died as a true Zagreb local author of the seed oil from Zagorje. 3. meadow by the Second – on a bus to the Upper Town. His work just released Eat Want to eat like a real Cro- Lake. Join in a game of includes more than 200,000 photos which Zagreb guide atian? Eat ćušpajz or gulaš. Monopoly, read a book are now in the Tošo Dabac Archives ( (available at Anything seasonal and 17), housed in the apartment where he lived from the traveling library Croatian Design hearthy, eaten with a spoon. 1940–1970. Check out his work at Superstore), or just relax to the DJ- tosodabac.com. reveals her Zagreb YOUR FAVORITE PLACE IN ZAGREB TO hosted soundtrack. Don’t faves BEAT THE HEAT IN AUGUST? Climb worry if you forget to Sljeme. Or walk anywhere pack your own grub. else in the woods of Medv- Picnic baskets with LEARN THE ednica. Croatian goodies are DIFFERENCE YOUR FAVORITE FOOD ITEMS TO PICK available on the spot. BETWEEN UP AT DOLAC THIS TIME OF YEAR... www.facebook.com/Za- Summer is really abundant grebPiknik ANJA MUTIĆ ŠTRUKLI AND with great produce: try FEAST ON CONTEMPO- Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington ŠTRUDLA, AND young peas and beans, rasp- RARY ART AT MSU Post. Follow her at @everthenomad TRY THEM BOTH berries, zucchini flowers, Museum of Contempo- first tomatoes, fresh goat rary Art (MSU) hosts two or cow milk cheese... In great shows this month. When the fish market don’t miss Wild West (Jun 16–Aug red mullets and Adriatic 15) showcases Polish sardines. Meat lovers can post-WW2 avant-garde empty is still find some good baby lamb. artists from Wrocław THE BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING FOR SUMMERTIME IN whose globally important CROATIA... Raw shellfish or prawns from Kvar- work has been influenced beautiful ner, directly from the sea, with some nice by both sides of the Iron rowing up, I read a children’s local white wine. Curtain. Until August 20, Gbook called Pale Alone in the NO 1. TERRACE IN ZAGREB FOR THE BEST SHADE & VIBE? For catch As Good as it Gets, World, about a boy who woke up fine dining and a great terrace, Dubravkin an exhibit of Julião Sar- one morning and found everyone Put is tops. For a hipper vibe, Rougemarin mento, one of Portugal’s had disappeared. Literally every- has a fun menu and a nice terrace. Beer best artists; it’s a proper one was gone. This stuck with me. lovers can try some good local brew in the multimedia feast of film, Save a few people here and there shade of Medvedgrad terrace. And I love the sound, image, sculpture who stick around the city – for morning vibe of Café u Dvorištu, where they and installation. @msu.hr either they have no choice or they have great specialty coffee and artisanal ice GIGGLE AWAY AT simply like it that way, Zagreb in cream (Medenko) in the same yard; don’t ZAGREB’S HOTTEST August feels like Pale’s world. miss the Slavonian hazelnut flavor! OPEN-AIR THEATER here is beauty in this emp- If you don’t speak Cro- Ttiness. Years ago, I found HIDDEN ZAGREB atian, you may not get Zagreb’s empty streets at noon the jokes. But the hot unsettling, the harsh sun beating thespian atmosphere is down. I craved people, action, traf- Cooking feast reason to check out the fic even... Now I love the stillness at Kuhaona 31st Zagreb Histrion- of summer. Catching shade from ic Summer (Jul 7–Sept sidewalk to sidewalk, guided by the f the path to your heart is via your belly, 3) and their amazing way the sun hits the streetscape Idon’t skip a cooking class at Kuhaona. open-air theatre stage at between buildings. Sometimes it This cool little gastro-educational center Opatovina park. Look out feels like playing hopscotch, with a stone’s throw from Dolac offers a range for the late-night cabaret sunrays acting as the small stone of culinary workshops (by appointment performances (starting tossed on the ground. only). Their shortest two-hour cooking class at 11.30pm) with lots of hen there are those pockets will show you how to make eingemachtes singing, where language Tof hubbub in air-conditioned (chicken minestrone), Zagreb steak (veal barriers almost disappear. spaces, the sudden buzz and bustle escalope filled with ham and cheese) and You’ll soon understand when the glaring sun finally softens jabuke u šlafroku (apple fritters), all typical why this event is a quint- around 6pm and people start to Zagreb dishes. For a market stall-to-table essential Zagreb symbol. sneak outside to sit on shaded ter- experience, arrange a pre-class trip to Dolac @histrion.hr races under tree trunks that offer to pick the freshest ingredients and then slight relief, paired so well with learn to whip up a storm with them in Kuha-

Borna Filić/PIXSELL cold drinks. And before I blink, ona’s fancy kitchen. Throw in a wine pairing everyone will be back in Zagreb too, and you’re in for a special treat. Prices anyway. Till then, I revel in this range from 200 to 600KN per person. For beauty of emptiness. schedules, check out @kuhaona.com.

SPEND SUMMER ON STROSS Strossmayer promenade, a beautiful tree-lined spot in the Upper Town, is the best place to spend your summer evenings. The popular Summer on Stross festival throws up almost 100 days of festivities: music and theater performances, art exhibitions and workshops, all accompanied with a cooling drink. @ljetonastrosu.com lead to ‘the small Stross’ which currently hosts Street Art Park NEW Zagreb opens up and another further up takes you to a courtyard off Ilica.Take time to notice quirky WW2 wall in- its underground heart scriptions, such as ‘no spitting on agreb has shared one of its place inside, have only built up the ground’ or ‘tell people off for Zbest-kept secrets: The myste- the intrigue. anti-social behaviour’ that have rious Grič Tunnel that connects Enter the Grič Tunnel from now been restored. Mesnička and Radićeva streets Mesnička street (the entrance is Plans are underway for the Grič is finally open to visitors (daily unmarked but you can’t miss it, Tunnel to turn into Museum of 9am-9pm; free entry). Built in on your right as you walk uphill) the Senses, slated to showcase 1943 as an air raid shelter, it and stroll around this 350m-long permanent exhibits, concerts, has remained closed ever since. and 3m-wide catacomb that holograms and animations, to- Rare one-off events, such as the branches off with several cor- gether promising a spine-tingling storied 1993 rave party that took ridors. Two exits to the right experience. Photo: Žarko Bašić/PIXSELL

TIP: New toilets are installed by both exits. They’re very sleek so pay them a visit even if you don’t have to go.

QuiZG Day by the has outdoor 1 Cannon in the Lotrščak at a pool and indoor Tower has fired daily at noon Olympic-size since: pools, a gym, ANDREA PISAC Zagreb has its own a) 1646 sauna and a ‘sea,’ the lakes Jarun Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with b) 1857 bunch of trendy and Bundek (check a twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com c) 1877 cafes in the the beach map at the namesake sport back) but its pools 2 There are 15 daytime tram center. Ticket Honestly, get are just as full and lines in Zagreb. How many 25KN, family well-equipped for operate at night? ticket 70KN savvy with your a) 4 those looking to cool b) 5 down with a splash. Zagreb windows c) 6 Each pool in Zagreb has its own highlights, n the last two years since I’ve been Šalata has a 3 Veternica Cave on with little difference in an Airbnb host, I met hundreds unique Olympic- I Medvednica mountain is ticket prices. size pool of people from every corner of the around 7 km long. How big is overlooking the world. Apart from giving them the the stretch open for visitors? city. The sport a) 250 meters comfort of a home away from home, Svetice in Maksimir with center is open till b) 310 meters I do everything to send my guests three pools opened earlier 6pm on weekdays c) 380 meters to Zagreb’s sweetest spots. In these this summer so it still gets and 7pm on quite busy. Opens daily till weekends. Highly short encounters, I learned many BONUS QUESTION 10pm. Ticket: 20KN recommended for things about other cultures. How many house numbers are a middle-of-the- And what amazes me most is how there in Novodvorska, day dip. Zagreb’s shortest street? this global village of our world takes a) 2 vastly different approaches to win- b) 3 dows. We have countless opening in Novi c) 4 Utrina Zagreb has two and closing systems – I now always Olympic-size include ‘the Croatian window’ in my ANSWERS pools: one for welcome tour – and various under- 1 c, 1877 was when the Lotrščak cannon fired at noon for the first divers and one standings of when is the best time to time; the bell was installed in 1646 for beginner keep them open or closed. and the cannon floor in 1857 swimmers. Here’s the proven window schedule Additional 2 a, four tram lines operate at night: to beat the Zagreb heat naturally. 31, 32, 33 and 34; 3 c, only the first facilities include 380 meters of the Veternica Cave a spa, gym and Keep all the windows and blinds are open to visitors. Bats have a sport courts. closed during the day. Literally, bar- separate entrance; BONUS b, Open till 8pm. ricade yourself in. After the sun has Novodvorska street in Trešnjevka Ticket: 20KN has three house numbers and is gone down, or even later, open every shorter than 30 meters. single one of them. Create a big enough drought to see the curtains dance. Enjoy the cool breeze even as you sleep. 208 5653 4 Tip: Read all about the Croatian meters is the height of meters is the length of kuna is the price of a drought phenomenon in Cody Zagreb’s heating plant Ilica, for a long time single ride with the Brown’s Chasing the Croatian Girl Zagreb’s longest street funicular bestseller. COOL TURE ALEX CREVAR NOEL GALLAGHER and High Flying Birds Travel writer from the United States. His work has appeared in The New York play at Šalata stadium Times, National Geographic Traveler and on August 16. The Outside magazine @AlexCrevar Oasis frontman is touring with the new band and this is his Evolution first concert in Croatia and beyond. Start n terms of tourism success, cities time: after 8pm. Ireside in three categories. One: @noelgallgher.com A necessary layover on the way to SUMMER CINEMA somewhere else. Two: As a home base Gradec in the Upper from which to explore a region. Three: Town has daily A dynamic magnet luring travelers screenings starting at with a wealth of interesting sites and 9pm. Choose among activities. A decade ago most of us excellent European art in the travel profession would have movies or the Croatian defined Zagreb as category one. classics such as The ithin a few years, Zagreb Brave Adventures of Wevolved to category two. Cool a Little Shoemaker, lounges started serving hip drinks. scheduled for the last Chichi bistros opened their doors. days of August. Suddenly visitors could eat items @ljetnokinogradec. besides grilled meats served on com table-sized platters. Vegetarians ST. MARK’S ORGAN actually had options beyond shredded Zagreb’s festival cabbage. of classical and travel a lot for work. Assignments chamber music Itake me to destinations desperate has performances to find a place on this scale. Even throughout the residing in the number-one slot summer in the would be a success. The reason: no namesake church in industry is as beneficial to a place the Upper Town. Don’t as well-planned tourism. As a city miss Oratio Divina moves along the depth chart from on Aug 14. Organ one to three it improves its economic concerts are on in situation AND sends a message to the Cathedral, too. the world: “This is a place you should #orguljesvetogmarka visit, spend your holiday budget, and ZAGREB TIME share with your friends.” MACHINE A unique very time I come back to Zagreb— journey through Eabout five times a year—it’s Zagreb’s history and more obvious that it now resides in culture pops up at categories two and three. Travelers every corner and park. likely never even notice the change. Make a special trip to They just know Croatia’s chief city is the Upper Town on the new darling of Central European weekends (5-8pm) tourism, alongside Prague, Vienna, to brush shoulders and Budapest. with historic figures like Zagorka and Pro-tip: Stay in Zagreb and the sur- Ljudevit Gaj or literary rounding highlands during the summer. characters Dora and Save the Adriatic for September 1. Pavle. @infozagreb.hr NEW IN TOWN ZGBLOG Enter the Zagreb MAKE IT YOUR LITTLE ZAGREB magic through If you follow a spritey Portal Escape team of seven known as My Little Zagreb, With their mind-bending challenges you’ll soon feel the city and fantastic period ambience, Room underneath your skin. Escape adventures might even trump Journalists, writers, visiting the most interactive museum. yoga teachers, coaches Zagreb’s newest addition is the Portal but most of all Zagreb Escape (Amruševa 8) with its three aficionados, these girls rooms built in the rich Hollywood-style deliver delicious stories make belief, and with various degrees about little pleasures of difficulty. Inspired by a mythical awaiting in Zagreb. heroine of Zagreb’s lore, The Black Topics cover every- Queen Castle is even suitable for fam- thing from food and ilies with children (10+). You can also culture to design and challenge yourself to the mafia-style shopping, all spruced Don Francesco’s Secret or the mind up with interviews with games inside Cubes. real local folk. Ticket: 350KN for a room (2-8 players) mylittlezagreb.com Duration: 60 min @portalescape.com YELLOW PAGE

List of public toilets

Grič Tunnel Vladimir Nazor Park

Europe Square

Masarykova, by the Faculty of Law

Train Station Botanical Garden

Where to go when you need to go In Zagreb, we can hardly wait Museum of Arts and Crafts for that alfresco season to kick or inside the Grič Tunnel. off so we can spend the whole If you take a breather from day outside. So we’ve rounded sightseeing in a cafe or a up a few great options for find- restaurant, have change ing a toilet on the go. ready. Some places charge Your first pee opp are public you a 1, 2 or 5KN coin to toilets. The oldest one, a fine ex- use the loo. ample of Art Deco architecture, is on the British Square, while the newest loo has been set up on the Europe Square. Housed TIPS&TRICKS in historic green huts are public toilets in the Botanical Garden ZAGREB TAXI HELP and in Nazor Park. The train and bus stations have them, too. +385 1 1777 112 Museum hopping is a great way EXCHANGE RATES, to find a good restroom. And if (BUY RATE, AUGUST 1 2016) you want to appreciate a unique € 1 7,47; $ 1 6,79; JPY 100 6,45 toilet design, visit those in the WI-FI SOLAR BENCHES Look out for smart solar-powered benches (R)E-charge in where you can charge your phone and get free wi-fi Tesla’s home access. Currently set up on two N village locations: in front of the Rector building at Marshal Tito Square If you’re curious and in front of the Faculty of about Nikola Tesla’s Kinesiology in Horvaćanski Zavoj. source of inspi- 120 min ration, venture to from Zagreb BOTANICAL the quiet village of GARDEN FOR FREE Smiljan in the midst is free of Lika’s wilderness. The memori- and open every day from mor- al center, which includes his birth ning to dusk – a policy in opera- house, marks its 10th anniversary; tion since its opening in 1891. The it now offers even more Tesla-relat- Garden was the city’s gift to the provided it ed experiences, such as the multi- kept free entrance. media room that makes you feel as if you’ve stepped into his lab. You THE MOST USEFUL CARD can even charge your e-car at the With Zagreb Card tourists get entrance. free transport and ticket disco- unts for more than 150 locations. Daily card is 60KN, a three-day Tip: Make sure you see the demon- card is 90KN. A ride on stration of the Tesla coil during the funicular which you hold a wireless neon is included. light that sparkles in your hands.

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Register at www.nextbike.hr for only HRK79, sit and ride! N ZAGREB’S RIVIERA WITH FOUR BLUE FLAGS LAST The Zagreb sea is what the locals fondly call the lakes of Jarun and the newly MINUTE restored Bundek. The vibe is similar to the Croatian coast; you only need to imagine swans as seagulls. Here you’ll find four blue-flag beaches: Trešnjevka island, Big Lake South, Small Wound up Lake and the Rowers’ island. All of them have lifeguards, cafes, restaurants and ice cream to Zagreb's Ilica st. stands. The newest addition is the special beach Ban Jelačić Square curious clock for the lesser-abled. And let’s not forget the nudist one, if you fancy a spot of skinny dipping. Bundek The Big If you’re wondering how JARUN BEACHES Lake is for swimmers to stop time so you can while the Small has the largest area enjoy Zagreb longer, Big Island Lake is a flora and designated for barbecues, a skate park fauna nature reserve. walk up to the Cathe- and a volleyball sand court Bundek Lake has a dral and look for the old Savska st. rollerskating path, clock where it’s always Trešnjevka is the biggest island at Jarun lake, three playgrounds, connected by bridge with the University two volleyball and 7.03am. This intriguing Games island handball sand courts, Av. V. Holjevca V. Av. clock commemorates the plus a floating stage Big Earthquake that hit for up to 2500 Horvaćanska st. River Sava visitors. the city on November 9, 1880 at that exact time. You, too, can stand still Small Island has the largest number of terraces and a for a while and pretend wakeboarding lift. you don’t have to leave.

Rowers’ island is set opposite the Island of Love and is the favorite place for people to The nudist beach swim from one side of the lake to the other has recently been fenced up against peeping 4am Photo: Julien Duval Most Zagreb clubs have closed for the sea- COOLEST son and moved to the Croatian coast, only VINYL two hours drive from Zagreb. Aquarius, Noa, HANGOUT Papaya and Kalypso all set up camp on Zrće, Pločnik is Zagreb’s the hit Pag beach. Don’t newest multimedia and miss Love Week festival concept venue that kills (July 23–30), on in all not two but three birds clubs and with parties with one stone: it’s a every day, all day and all cafe, a club and a vinyl night – and all summer. store. Also head there There’s a reason Zrće (Međimurska street) for is called the Croatian 60+ types of craft beer Ibiza. @zrce.com and a rare opportunity to enjoy vinyl DJ-ing. Closing time is 2am but if you want to stay up later (think party till Let’s sway in the Art Park 7am), visit nearby Mas- ot long ago few people knew about the park nestled between Ilica and ters. #plocnik #masters NTomićeva streets and Stross promenade. Once burdened with the nickname ‘the druggies’ park,’ it has turned into a vibrant green oasis thanks to street art- ists Lonac, Lunar, Artez and Modul, all headed up by the Pimp My Pump team. Head there for daily festivals and flea markets. This month’s special: restoring and painting of the park’s benches and swings. @pmp.hr

TASTE OF ZAGREB Many locals adore the fam- Have you seen ily-owned Orijent (Mak- tourists strolling the powered by simirska 34). Though the Upper Town with selfie Taste of Croatia procedure hasn’t changed sticks? They’ve probably much in decades the cre- talked the street lamp Scoop it up ative team always comes up lighter into letting them with new flavors, such as turn on one of the gas in Zagreb black sesame. Gelati d’Oro, lamps that adorn the agreb has always been found in shops around historic buildings. Follow- Zcrazy about ice cream. town (Ilica 38, Britanski ing the lamp lighter has Colorful display of flavors trg 2), specialize in vegan, become a prime tourist from shops and street gluten- and lactose-free MORE INFO attraction; he’s been vendors follows wherever ice cream. Medenko, the doing it for 150 years you go. While the old “ice cream factory” from (not the same man). traditional patisseries had Samobor, has just opened a If you want to catch their own recipes, it’s hard tiny shop (Jurja Žerjavića him, show up at to find places that make 7/2); try their blackcurrant dawn or dusk. the creamy mixture from and mint or poppy seed and scratch nowadays. This is lemon. where artisan ice cream Kcal per 1 large scoop: 180, There are comes to save the day. price per scoop: 7-10KN 214 gas lamps APPS in the Upper Town. 60 new Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . ones are to arrive soon. Meet in Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb be There Places