AUGUST 2016 AUGUST Cool fun in the hot city With fewer locals around, August in Zagreb is known as slumber time. But when there is less traffic and less stress, the party levels go up too. Currently on offer: Stross promenade and Upper Town evening festivals (page 2), Grič Tunnel (page 3) to cool down during the day, beaches on Jarun and Bundek lakes (map on the last page), swimming pools (page 3), parks, clubs, new stuff in town... The whole city is yours, so get down to it! INSTAGRAM* Sanjin Kaštelan Photo: SUMMER LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT Medvedgrad gets ready for visitors FIRST MICHELIN launched a A medieval castle and museum perched above the city, Zagreb weekend guide, Medvedgrad is an ideal venue for movie and food festivals, the first city guide in parties and concerts a great family outing.This 13th-century MINUTE Croatia. Reaching out to fortification and the site of the Homeland Altar recently got a new Land in Zagreb French tourists, whose lease of life. You can now visit daily, except Mondays. At 593 meters of altitude, it provides a perfect respite from heat. For an and touch the sun numbers rose to 50,000 even deeper shade, stroll inside Veternica, the nearby 7km-long last year, the guide rec- cave. @pp-medvednica.hr There aren’t many places ommends an ideal three- where you can actually day break: day 1 for NUMBERS 1 chapel, 2 towers 107 owners 13,000 touch the sun. When you Dolac market, day 2 for 170 meters of walls visitors in land in Zagreb, look for the museums and day 3 for 2015 famous Grounded Sun, a the Medvednica moun- sculpture by Ivan Kožarić tain. @michelin.com in Bogovićeva street. Next, TREE LINE by the Ma- search out other planets of sarykova street patis- the Zagreb Solar System. serie lost a tree during This unique installation con- the terrace extensions. nects models of all planets, Homeland Becomes The city authorities Overtaken proportional in size and instructed that a new Altar part of distance to the real thing. by king erected Medvednica 5-meter-high honey Nature Park locust tree be planted in Start of Destroyed by The chapel earthquake discovered its stead. @zagreb.hr construction CROATIA’S FIRST WORD HOSTEL WITH A POOL 1249 1590 1671 1981 1994 2010 is the new nickname of Vruće Zagreb’s best-known LEADER OF THE PACK is hostel Swanky Mint. on its own: the 17-year-old (Vroo- che) Apart from this novelty, Silver is the last remaining Hot, Heiß, Chaud, there are two new terrac- wolf in the Zagreb Zoo, after Caliente, Caldo, Quente es ready to continue with having lost its brother. The the hostel’s renowned Zoo plans to introduce a new 熱い, parties. pack but not while the lone @swanky-hostel.com wolf still stands. @zoo.hr 뜨거운, 热 WHAT MONOVIEW WHERE Want to eat like a real Croatian? Eat ćušpajz WHEN ZAGREB PERFECT ZAGREB SUPERHEROES TOP FOOD ADVICE FOR VISITORS TO ZAGREB: PICNIC IN MAKSIMIR Tošo Dabac, poetic 1. Learn the differ- Want to eat alfresco and photographer who loved people ence between štrukli and lose the city crowds? Hit No one has captured Zagreb’s je ne sais štrudla – try them both 2. the gorgeous Maksimir quoi as poetically as the iconic 20th-century Buy fresh milk cheese and park every Saturday (Jun photographer Tošo Dabac. He spent 50 try it first with top-quality 18–Sept 9; 10am-5pm) years chronicling Zagreb’s streets, corners and cafes, and especially people in them. olive oil from Istria, and and look for people with Željka His work was widely shown, from Vienna to Klemenčić, then with some pumpkin picnic baskets at the New York. Dabac died as a true Zagreb local author of the seed oil from Zagorje. 3. meadow by the Second – on a bus to the Upper Town. His work just released Eat Want to eat like a real Cro- Lake. Join in a game of includes more than 200,000 photos which Zagreb guide atian? Eat ćušpajz or gulaš. Monopoly, read a book are now in the Tošo Dabac Archives (Ilica (available at Anything seasonal and 17), housed in the apartment where he lived from the traveling library Croatian Design hearthy, eaten with a spoon. 1940–1970. Check out his work at Superstore), or just relax to the DJ- tosodabac.com. reveals her Zagreb YOUR FAVORITE PLACE IN ZAGREB TO hosted soundtrack. Don’t faves BEAT THE HEAT IN AUGUST? Climb worry if you forget to Sljeme. Or walk anywhere pack your own grub. else in the woods of Medv- Picnic baskets with LEARN THE ednica. Croatian goodies are DIFFERENCE YOUR FAVORITE FOOD ITEMS TO PICK available on the spot. BETWEEN UP AT DOLAC THIS TIME OF YEAR... www.facebook.com/Za- Summer is really abundant grebPiknik ANJA MUTIĆ ŠTRUKLI AND with great produce: try FEAST ON CONTEMPO- Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington ŠTRUDLA, AND young peas and beans, rasp- RARY ART AT MSU Post. Follow her at @everthenomad TRY THEM BOTH berries, zucchini flowers, Museum of Contempo- first tomatoes, fresh goat rary Art (MSU) hosts two or cow milk cheese... In great shows this month. When the fish market don’t miss Wild West (Jun 16–Aug red mullets and Adriatic 15) showcases Polish sardines. Meat lovers can post-WW2 avant-garde empty is still find some good baby lamb. artists from Wrocław THE BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING FOR SUMMERTIME IN whose globally important CROATIA... Raw shellfish or prawns from Kvar- work has been influenced beautiful ner, directly from the sea, with some nice by both sides of the Iron rowing up, I read a children’s local white wine. Curtain. Until August 20, Gbook called Pale Alone in the NO 1. TERRACE IN ZAGREB FOR THE BEST SHADE & VIBE? For catch As Good as it Gets, World, about a boy who woke up fine dining and a great terrace, Dubravkin an exhibit of Julião Sar- one morning and found everyone Put is tops. For a hipper vibe, Rougemarin mento, one of Portugal’s had disappeared. Literally every- has a fun menu and a nice terrace. Beer best artists; it’s a proper one was gone. This stuck with me. lovers can try some good local brew in the multimedia feast of film, Save a few people here and there shade of Medvedgrad terrace. And I love the sound, image, sculpture who stick around the city – for morning vibe of Café u Dvorištu, where they and installation. @msu.hr either they have no choice or they have great specialty coffee and artisanal ice GIGGLE AWAY AT simply like it that way, Zagreb in cream (Medenko) in the same yard; don’t ZAGREB’S HOTTEST August feels like Pale’s world. miss the Slavonian hazelnut flavor! OPEN-AIR THEATER here is beauty in this emp- If you don’t speak Cro- Ttiness. Years ago, I found HIDDEN ZAGREB atian, you may not get Zagreb’s empty streets at noon the jokes. But the hot unsettling, the harsh sun beating thespian atmosphere is down. I craved people, action, traf- Cooking feast reason to check out the fic even... Now I love the stillness at Kuhaona 31st Zagreb Histrion- of summer. Catching shade from ic Summer (Jul 7–Sept sidewalk to sidewalk, guided by the f the path to your heart is via your belly, 3) and their amazing way the sun hits the streetscape Idon’t skip a cooking class at Kuhaona. open-air theatre stage at between buildings. Sometimes it This cool little gastro-educational center Opatovina park. Look out feels like playing hopscotch, with a stone’s throw from Dolac offers a range for the late-night cabaret sunrays acting as the small stone of culinary workshops (by appointment performances (starting tossed on the ground. only). Their shortest two-hour cooking class at 11.30pm) with lots of hen there are those pockets will show you how to make eingemachtes singing, where language Tof hubbub in air-conditioned (chicken minestrone), Zagreb steak (veal barriers almost disappear. spaces, the sudden buzz and bustle escalope filled with ham and cheese) and You’ll soon understand when the glaring sun finally softens jabuke u šlafroku (apple fritters), all typical why this event is a quint- around 6pm and people start to Zagreb dishes. For a market stall-to-table essential Zagreb symbol. sneak outside to sit on shaded ter- experience, arrange a pre-class trip to Dolac @histrion.hr races under tree trunks that offer to pick the freshest ingredients and then slight relief, paired so well with learn to whip up a storm with them in Kuha- Borna Filić/PIXSELL cold drinks. And before I blink, ona’s fancy kitchen. Throw in a wine pairing everyone will be back in Zagreb too, and you’re in for a special treat. Prices anyway. Till then, I revel in this range from 200 to 600KN per person. For beauty of emptiness. schedules, check out @kuhaona.com. SPEND SUMMER ON STROSS Strossmayer promenade, a beautiful tree-lined spot in the Upper Town, is the best place to spend your summer evenings. The popular Summer on Stross festival throws up almost 100 days of festivities: music and theater performances, art exhibitions and workshops, all accompanied with a cooling drink.