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Josip Jelačić, Croatia's National Hero, Has Been on the Main Square Since 1866, with a Break of 43 Years Under Communism

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Josip Jelačić, Croatia's National Hero, Has Been on the Main Square Since 1866, with a Break of 43 Years Under Communism N Witches in the ONE SHOE FOR TWO Upper Town Skyscraper Count on horse HORSES EQUALS THE CITY Ban (count) Josip Jelačić, Croatia's national hero, has been on the main square since 1866, with a break of 43 years under communism Zagreb Between two of Zagreb's most University famous horse riders -- Ban (Count) Jelačić and King Tomislav -- there is Zrinjevac Park Be what you want, do the 'green horseshoe'. It's also known Croatian as Lenuci's horseshoe, after the what you like. Sounds National architect credited for the urban great, right? Under this Theater concept that shaped Zagreb's center slogan, witches from the as we know it today. This sequence of Upper Town lead you on green areas features seven squares and Croatian a unique night tour of the the Botanical Garden, together Academy of city. With all-black co- forming a U shape. The green Science and Academy stumes and pointed hats, of Dramatic horseshoe peaks in springtime as the Arts Arts place for strolling and resting. it's all very occult and #walk #park #architecture mystical. You may try the tour alone but for those WORKING HOURS Art who don't dare, there Croatian Mon-Tue 9am - 2.30pm Pavillion State Wed-Sun 9am - 7pm are group tours. BYOB Archive Free admission (Bring Your Own Broom). Botanical Garden #UpperTown #witches King on horse Get out of town, but The sculpture of the first Croatian king in town On May 8, join went up near the train station in 1947, the the extraordinary Jane's same year Jelačić went down Walk, which starts at 6pm from multiple locations, such as Trešnjevka, Mak- simir and Podsused. These Sir i vrhnje, Croatian cheese old neighborhoods were once on the outskirts of sensation you simply must try Zagreb. Volunteer guides Sanjin Kaštelan will walk you through urban secrets of these lesser-known quarters. Walkers hit the streets of different cities around the world at the same time. Free and educational. #janeswalk TIPS& TRICKS ZAGREB TAXI HELP agreb is It wasn’t a ban, Zknown for its it was just +385 1 1777 112 cheese and sour misinterpreted, EXCHANGE RATES, cream combo, (BUY RATE, MAY 1, 2015) sir i vrhnje. But says Marija € 1 7,60; $ 1 6,80; JPY 100 5,72 this traditional Ivanković, third dish pairing isn’t generation of ZG TRAMS – MATE JANKOVIĆ just a food; it’s NOT A FREE RIDE an important kumica It's easy to be tempted to ride Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony the trams for free but don't – or Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You political issue sinterpreted," says be ready to pay the fine. Ran- can find Mate at Gradska Kavana which can decide Marija Ivanković, dom checks are done frequently who wins the third generation of by officials who roam the trams They found us! elections. In fact, kumica (the name in regular clothes. A single trip it was a heated for village ladies costs 10KN; a daily ticket is ’m not from Zagreb originally. topic of debate who sell their edi- 30KN. IActually, I never thought I when Croats were ble wares at Zagreb JOG TILL YOU DROP would end up here. Having grown voting whether markets) who up in the coastal city of Rijeka, Go to the Sava River em- to join the EU. will be succeeded bankment. Run between living close to the Adriatic Sea is The burning issue by her daughter the bridge for trains and the not something you give up easily. was: Would the Leonita. "Who in bridge for trams, between the Being a chef at coastal hotspots EU still allow this their right mind bridge for pedestrians and for is everything but a conventional local delicacy to would ban the sir i cars... From bridge to bridge. 9-to-5 with weekends off and BBQ be sold at the Za- vrhnje?” she asked. TIPS FOR parties with cold beer on Sundays. greb markets? "It ottage cheese STREET MUSICIANS So I guess moving to the continent wasn’t a ban, it mixed with is a logical move for a guy who C If the music moves you, was just sour cream and a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the wants to actually know what it mi- seasonings is a one with the brown bear, feels like to have a Sunday off and standout dish, but will do the trick. for at least one day have a glimpse it’s also the base WANT A GOOD ŠTRUKLE? of something that looks like nor- for another Zagreb mal life of those office people you You can eat štrukle at many classic - #štrukle. places around Zagreb. We watch every day dipping their ties recommend Le Štruk in Skalinska in your consommé. (entrance from Tkalčićeva or from h man, did I make a great de- The story goes: Once upon a Dolac market) and if you want cision. No seasonal madness, time, cheese and cream were ac- the best of the best, head to Le O + Bistro at Esplanade Zagreb Hotel. year-round consistency of hungry cidentally mixed on the way from one of people and my first ever Sunday Zagorje hills to Zagreb. From another hill GET TIED UP BBQ with my new friends. Of came the flour, and then the free-range Croatia is the homeland of the course I’m the guy who is flipping eggs. All together these ingredients arri- tie (cravat). Buy this burgers. Some things never change. ved to Harmica (#market #Dolac), where original Croatian product But at least, people love you more, in Croata salons, located they were discovered by the person who at Kaptol 13 and Ilica I think. Zagreb has become quite a started the culinary adventure that has hotspot in the last couple of years. 5 (inside the Oktogon lasted till today in the shape of štrukle. passageway). Business is booming, and Sundays are wide open. Damn, we lost our FOR RAINY DAYS... best-kept secret. They found us, The Šestine umbrella is one of those tourists. 4 am Zagreb's most recognizable Oh sorry editors, they will read souvenirs. Grab CLUBBING IN AN yours at one of the this? Will you censor this part? souvenir shops on elcome to Zagreb, people! If INDUSTRIAL LANDMARK Bakačeva street, be- Wyou can’t find me at the res- low the Cathedral. taurant, catch me for a cold beer on Sunday. I’ll show you how to flip a Zagreb’s cult club Sirup is the city’s burger and slowly disappear into synonym for underground clubbing. Located in Paromlin, a protected Tour de Zagreb the crowd while you take over my for less CO2 job. Enjoy, hang out with us while landmark, it’s inside a monument of industrial architecture from the Need a challenge? Hop I enjoy my last Sunday for some th time. early 20 century. Two great reasons on a bike and join the (I’m lying, I take my Sundays of. to check it out this month: Kick It & Zagreb team in the Eu- There are plenty of new kids out to Outlook 2015 party on May 22 and ropean Cycling Challen- prove themselves) Deep’n’Delicious on May 23. It’s a pla- ge. The race against Welcome to Zagreb. Bon appetit. ce to drink a lot and it’s cash only so 40 European cities come prepared. #clubbing #house lasts throughout May. The prize? Less carbon APPS MORE INFO dioxide emissions in Zagreb the city. Follow your be There ride on the Cycling365 Meet in app and win for Zagreb a greener Za- greb. #cycle Zagreb Places #eco Sanjin Kaštelan * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb LIMITED EDITION INSTAGRAM* FREE COPY Dance with the city, No. 02 MAY it’s only 921 years old 2015. It's not polite to ask someone their age but in this case we recommend it – on the last day of May, Zagreb cele- Z brates its 921st birthday. The city knows how to put on on Facebook a good party so brace yourself for a bag of surprises this The one month. Coming up is an explosion of festivals, concerts and only and events, including the start of Summer on Štros. Hit Neboder! the streets and you're bound to find something going on. When you say skyscrap- er, every Zagrebian Talkabout has the same buliding Croatia in mind – Neboder, the DOLAC IS MOVING It’s first skysraper for real! The Dolac mar- bulit not just ket will be reconstru- in Zagreb, but cted. This buzzing place in Croatia, as well. The con- ANJA MUTIĆ where kumice converge struction of Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New every day to hawk their York Magazine and The Washington Post. the very same Follow her at @everthenomad wares and Zagrebians skyscraper on flock to stock up on Ban Jelačić edibles is moving to Square began around the the spot where it once time The Perfect was: Ban Jelačić Square. Beatles were The reconstruction will formed. Back start on the upper level then, it was a and end with a new fo- symbol of the pitch new era. An ur-floor garage building. entire gen- few years ago, on a solo trip #market eration grew Athrough Patagonia, I met THE TUNNEL Under up dancing a German man who had made the Grič hill from Radi- to Elvis ever- a home in Ushuaia, the world’s ćeva to Mesnička streets, greens on the dance floor southernmost city.
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