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Witches in the ONE SHOE FOR TWO Upper Town Skyscraper Count on horse HORSES EQUALS THE CITY Ban (count) Josip Jelačić, 's national hero, has been on the main square since 1866, with a break of 43 years under communism

Zagreb Between two of 's most University famous horse riders -- Ban (Count) Jelačić and King Tomislav -- there is Zrinjevac Park Be what you want, do the 'green horseshoe'. It's also known Croatian as Lenuci's horseshoe, after the what you like. Sounds National architect credited for the urban great, right? Under this Theater concept that shaped Zagreb's center slogan, witches from the as we know it today. This sequence of Upper Town lead you on green areas features seven squares and Croatian a unique night tour of the the Botanical Garden, together Academy of city. With all-black co- forming a U shape. The green Science and Academy stumes and pointed hats, of Dramatic horseshoe peaks in springtime as the Arts Arts place for strolling and resting. it's all very occult and #walk #park #architecture mystical. You may try the tour alone but for those WORKING HOURS Art who don't dare, there Croatian Mon-Tue 9am - 2.30pm Pavillion State Wed-Sun 9am - 7pm are group tours. BYOB Archive Free admission (Bring Your Own Broom). Botanical Garden #UpperTown #witches

King on horse Get out of town, but The sculpture of the first Croatian king in town On May 8, join went up near the train station in 1947, the the extraordinary Jane's same year Jelačić went down Walk, which starts at 6pm from multiple locations, such as Trešnjevka, Mak- simir and Podsused. These Sir i vrhnje, Croatian cheese old neighborhoods were once on the outskirts of sensation you simply must try Zagreb. Volunteer guides Sanjin Kaštelan will walk you through urban secrets of these lesser-known quarters. Walkers hit the streets of different cities around the world at the same time. Free and educational. #janeswalk TIPS& TRICKS ZAGREB TAXI HELP agreb is It wasn’t a ban, Zknown for its it was just +385 1 1777 112 cheese and sour misinterpreted, EXCHANGE RATES, cream combo, (BUY RATE, MAY 1, 2015) sir i vrhnje. But says Marija € 1 7,60; $ 1 6,80; JPY 100 5,72 this traditional Ivanković, third dish pairing isn’t generation of ZG TRAMS – MATE JANKOVIĆ just a food; it’s NOT A FREE RIDE an important kumica It's easy to be tempted to ride Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony the trams for free but don't – or Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You political issue sinterpreted," says be ready to pay the fine. Ran- can find Mate at Gradska Kavana which can decide Marija Ivanković, dom checks are done frequently who wins the third generation of by officials who roam the trams They found us! elections. In fact, kumica (the name in regular clothes. A single trip it was a heated for village ladies costs 10KN; a daily ticket is ’m not from Zagreb originally. topic of debate who sell their edi- 30KN. IActually, I never thought I when Croats were ble wares at Zagreb JOG TILL YOU DROP would end up here. Having grown voting whether markets) who up in the coastal city of Rijeka, Go to the Sava River em- to join the EU. will be succeeded bankment. Run between living close to the Adriatic Sea is The burning issue by her daughter the bridge for trains and the not something you give up easily. was: Would the Leonita. "Who in bridge for trams, between the Being a chef at coastal hotspots EU still allow this their right mind bridge for pedestrians and for is everything but a conventional local delicacy to would ban the sir i cars... From bridge to bridge. 9-to-5 with weekends off and BBQ be sold at the Za- vrhnje?” she asked. TIPS FOR parties with cold beer on Sundays. greb markets? "It ottage cheese STREET MUSICIANS So I guess moving to the continent wasn’t a ban, it mixed with is a logical move for a guy who C If the music moves you, was just sour cream and a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the wants to actually know what it mi- seasonings is a one with the brown bear, feels like to have a Sunday off and standout dish, but will do the trick. for at least one day have a glimpse it’s also the base WANT A GOOD ŠTRUKLE? of something that looks like nor- for another Zagreb mal life of those office people you You can eat štrukle at many classic - #štrukle. places around Zagreb. We watch every day dipping their ties recommend Le Štruk in Skalinska in your consommé. (entrance from Tkalčićeva or from h man, did I make a great de- The story goes: Once upon a ) and if you want cision. No seasonal madness, time, cheese and cream were ac- the best of the best, head to Le O + Bistro at Esplanade Zagreb Hotel. year-round consistency of hungry cidentally mixed on the way from one of people and my first ever Sunday Zagorje hills to Zagreb. From another hill GET TIED UP BBQ with my new friends. Of came the flour, and then the free-range Croatia is the homeland of the course I’m the guy who is flipping eggs. All together these ingredients arri- tie (cravat). Buy this burgers. Some things never change. ved to Harmica (#market #Dolac), where original Croatian product But at least, people love you more, in Croata salons, located they were discovered by the person who at Kaptol 13 and I think. Zagreb has become quite a started the culinary adventure that has hotspot in the last couple of years. 5 (inside the Oktogon lasted till today in the shape of štrukle. passageway). Business is booming, and Sundays are wide open. Damn, we lost our FOR RAINY DAYS... best-kept secret. They found us, The Šestine umbrella is one of those tourists. 4 am Zagreb's most recognizable Oh sorry editors, they will read souvenirs. Grab CLUBBING IN AN yours at one of the this? Will you censor this part? souvenir shops on elcome to Zagreb, people! If INDUSTRIAL LANDMARK Bakačeva street, be- Wyou can’t find me at the res- low the Cathedral. taurant, catch me for a cold beer on Sunday. I’ll show you how to flip a Zagreb’s cult club Sirup is the city’s burger and slowly disappear into synonym for underground clubbing. Located in Paromlin, a protected Tour de Zagreb the crowd while you take over my for less CO2 job. Enjoy, hang out with us while landmark, it’s inside a monument of industrial architecture from the Need a challenge? Hop I enjoy my last Sunday for some th time. early 20 century. Two great reasons on a bike and join the (I’m lying, I take my Sundays of. to check it out this month: Kick It & Zagreb team in the Eu- There are plenty of new kids out to Outlook 2015 party on May 22 and ropean Cycling Challen- prove themselves) Deep’n’Delicious on May 23. It’s a pla- ge. The race against Welcome to Zagreb. Bon appetit. ce to drink a lot and it’s cash only so 40 European cities come prepared. #clubbing #house lasts throughout May. The prize? Less carbon APPS MORE INFO dioxide emissions in Zagreb the city. Follow your be There ride on the Cycling365

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ANJA MUTIĆ ANJA - Follow her at her at Follow - Ban Jelačić Square 9 - Ban Jelačić Square AGRAM* hen I left Zagreb in the hear I couldn’t early 1990s, - Martićeva 5 - Martićeva - Kožarska 19 - Kožarska York Magazine and The Washington Post. Post. Washington Magazine and The York few years ago, on a solo trip years ago, few I met through Patagonia, - Palmotićeva 22 - Palmotićeva t only ceased its siren song and came when I stopped, ’ve since traveled the world world the since traveled ’ve ears to the ground. with my INST city, the with Dance old 921 years only it’s Perfect Perfect pitch It's not polite to ask someone their age but in this caseIt's not Zagreb cele of May, day recommend it – on the last we to put on how knows The city birthday. brates its 921st surprises thisa good so brace yourself for a bag of party concerts of festivals, month. Coming up is an explosion Hit of Summer on Štros. the start including and events, on. and you're bound to find something going the streets A back. Then I could read the score. perfect sense. made The notes sings to then, it still And, even An echo an echo. like me but now that sang places of all the other and to, to me, places I listened heard. I hear you, Zagreb. Finally, pitch. the perfect it’s Now, music hotspots: Live Melin VIP Club Mojo Sax Kulture Tvornica its music. I was in another place, in another its music. I was tone-deaf. But perhaps a little song, the city a mermaid’s like for me has called me back. It sang from across oceans and rooftops, and canyons from across stark towns. corners of far-flung street its song a whisper, quietly, It sang unflin luring me back, stubborn, insistent the most ching... It was as if composed just of melodies, for me. him why, he said: “Places have “Places have he said: him why, a silent melody to them. You I fell it or you don’t. either love music, and with Ushuaia’s in love here I am.” aSome places sounded like me gave others cacophony, Some cities had a dance blues. spring to my tune that gave a symphony. were others step, and places jazz cities, There were who I was. where drums rattled encounter in Ushuaia, Since my for that silent music I listened I went. wherever a German man who had made a home in Ushuaia, the world’s When I asked city. southernmost W Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New New for writes Planet Croatia, of Lonely Author I I In competition with In competition Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, Valletta, Don't waste paper. Use it or paper. Don't waste Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, Lisbon, Athens, Bordeaux, best destination in Europe destination best *2014 Zagreb was the sixth was Zagreb *2014 (Ka-ko see) (Ka-ko Wie you, are How Comment es dir, geht Cómo allez-vous, vai, Como usted, está stai Come PHRASE si? Kako -

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FREE COPY ZagrebEye ZagrebEye 1959. and 1956 between built was It on Facebook zagreb-touristinfo.hr # Zagreb from from Zagreb above. at the top, the top, at way a great in take to Today, there there Today, is a viewpoint what was was what then the peak of civilization. dance floor dance atop located up dancing Elvis ever to on the greens entire gen entire grew eration symbol of the symbol An era. new Beatles were were Beatles Backformed. a then, it was around the around time The skyscraper on skyscraper Ban Jelačić began Square struction ofstruction same the very in Zagreb, but in Zagreb, as in Croatia, con The well. first skysraper skysraper first bulit not just buliding in mind – the Neboder, Zagrebian Zagrebian has the same When you say say you When skyscrap every er, and only Neboder! The one m

view 360˚ Sanjin Kaštelan 70 what*where*when* ZAGREB GETS A Zagreb then and now, NEW GAY GUIDE black&white in color Zagreb is a gay-friendly city that opens its doors and hearts to all people, regardless of the way they sway. The brand-new Zagreb Gay Guide, published by the Domino association in cooperation with the Tourist Board, is hot off the presses. You can get it in every Tourist Information Center and in all the LGBT locations around town.

BATS ARE AWAKE, The bear Although the hill above Zagreb was named after bears, they were so exotic to the city's residents that seeing one, even in chains, was a great attraction THE CAVE IS OPEN Ban Jelačić Square The rooftop ads would Built in 1254, the medieval town of soon disappear, the mo- has been watching nument has had an 180° over Zagreb for eight centuries turn, the city market has straight. Because of its perfect been moved... Otherwise, strategic position overlooking everything is the same the city, it’s been the epicenter of wars and political turmoil. These days it’s open to visitors every day (except Mondays), from 11am to 7pm. Nearby is the Veternica cave, where bats have now woken up Ognjen Ivanović photographs from hibernation and visitors are Zagreb like nobody else. He welcome in. combines old photos, found on the internet, with shots taken today on the very same site. ART OF FLOWERS And so he takes us traveling If you’re in Zagreb between May through time, sometimes a The elephant There are many legends associated with the photo; 25 and May 31, visit the Bundek hundred years into the past. today this green space is prohibited park on the other side of the Sava Inspired by the work of a even to dogs River and catch Florart, the largest photographer who incorporat- horticultural event in this part of ed film locations into real-life the city. He is currently working Europe. This month, the interna- sights, Ivanović started his Za- on a Then & Now video, which tional garden exhibit celebrates greb - Then & Now project as a will feature more than 2500 its 50th anniversary with a richer break between producing vide- photos. repertoire and more than 170 ex- os for his YouTube channel. His From the time the original pic- hibitors. Besides fantastic-looking photos are a hit on Facebook ture was taken until his contem- flowers and other flora, and Ognjen gave interviews for porary intervention, everything you can enjoy con- all major media outlets. He also has changed, of course. The certs, programs for presented his Zagreb to the world isn't black and white any kids, a village yard international public on Bored more, some areas have lost with farm animals… Panda, hoping the photos their former purpose, trees #flowers# fun would inspire people to visit have grown ... Vintage cars, docs and coffee at on Fridays intage vehicles from Ferdinand Budicki, vehicle in Croatia, the majestic Jaguar E-Type and VZagreb’s first automobile museum, are now par- the legendary Ford T from 1922, which championed ked right in the city center. Every Friday night on Ford's moving assembly line. You can take in this the British Square, you can check out cool old cars, open-air museum while sitting on the terrace of catch screenings of documentaries and see photos Kava Tava café with a drink, a toast sandwich or depicting automobile history. In its collection, the American pancakes. Don’t miss the sweet bites from museum has the Praga truck from 1916, the oldest nearby Cukeraj, one of our favorite pastry shops. Sanjin Kaštelan

We have roughly 50 cars and 50 motorcycles. My favorite car is Citroen 2cv. Every car or object tells Pretty girls look even prettier in cool its own story. cars. Zagreb's museum is not an exception We've become

one of the city's Cool old cars appear on cultural symbols, photos and in documentaries said museum as part of the show. Ferdinand Budicki was the guy who manager Valentin brought the first car Valjak to Zagreb NEW Dusk-till-dawn storefront of urban culture agreb's bar scene may be flamboyant interior features hub. On top of a great list of Zchock-a-block but the trick a gallery, a concert venue and local wines, grappas and beers, is finding just the right bar lots of space to just chill. For Vinyl also has Zagreb's largest to fit your mood. The team those who prefer the outdoors, whiskey selection. Throw in behind Vinyl made the choice there's a large terrace just next the daily program of concerts, easy - they created a stylish, to the Sun sculpture on Bogovi- jam sessions, book promotions easy-going and sexy living ro- ćeva street. The name isn't just and even swing lessons, and om-type hangout in the midst for show either – on weekends you'll see why Vinyl has quic- of Zagreb’s špica (shpitza). The an impressive collection of kly become a favorite spot for Sanjin Kaštelan over 2500 records local artists and creatives and turns (pun intended) for anyone who is into the art the place into a party of enjoying life.

"Vinyl is a storefront of urban culture on the city’s busiest promenade," Nora Krstulović, member of SKROZ collective who curates Vinyl’s program

Working hours Bogovićeva 3; Sun–Tue 8am–midnight, Wed–Thu 8am-2am, Fri & Sat 8am–4am A day in MONOVIEW ZAGREB AS

EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF Feel the spirit of this English landscape-style park spreading over 316 CULTURE? ONE FINE DAY... hectares (780 acres) in east ALEX CREVAR Zagreb, with pavilions, Travel writer from the United States. His work EUROPEAN CITY OF CULTURE viewpoints, a summer has appeared in The New York Times, cottage ... The ideal place for National Geographic Traveler and 2015 Right now I'm in Outside magazine @AlexCrevar #walks, #jogging, #cycling Mons, Belgium, where and #kids. Check out outdoor we are setting up our concerts at Vidikovac, every show. It's great to Sunday from 10.30am to Here you are be here and see how 12.30pm. #time machine the whole town is #nature #music never alone changing with various DRAŽEN projects intended ’ve lived in Zagreb four times. for both citizens The first celebration of For people prone to travel, like GRUBIŠIĆ International Workers’ I and visitors from all Day was held in the park me, that is a powerful statement. MUSEUM OF over Europe. Various back in 1890, just four A relationship with a city—like BROKEN cultural institutions, years after the riots in one with a former lover—is schools, hotels and Chicago. To this day, workers complicated. It starts hot. You RELATIONSHIPS shops are all taking assemble on May 1 every year move in. You learn your way to celebrate with traditional IS HERE BECAUSE part in this cultural bean stew samplings, around. You use each other up. YOU CAN'T project. It would be majorettes, red carnations You move on. nice to experience and revolutionary songs. orward movement is the key. HEAL A HEART something like that in Viva la Revolution! #1may FOnce I’ve lived in a city and WITH PILLS Zagreb. moved on, why would I go back LOVE VS. FRIENDSHIP I think to a place where I was a lesser that friendship should version of me than I am now? I last a lifetime. With have avoided staring into that love, it's a little harder. insecure mirror over and over BROKEN HEART OR BROKEN BONE I've never again. I’ve avoided it everywhere broken a bone so it's difficult to com- but Zagreb. pare, but I think the bone heals faster, Maksimir’s Zoo is open every day, including Why? and you can pop some pills to alleviate holidays. It’s home to 2225 Because Zagreb is the healthiest the pain. With the heart, it's not like animals, including 275 relationship I’ve ever had. I that. That's why we have the Museum species, hailing from all respected it from the beginning, of Broken Relationships. continents. If you have kids enjoy its core personality, and MEMORIES ARE ... Deceptive in tow, don’t miss the public watch it change without fear of TO THOSE IN LOVE I ALWAYS SAY feeding of T-Rex and other It will either animals. #zoo being left behind. pass, or maybe it will become real love Sure, Zagreb is still about roc- that lasts a long, long time. And if not, king out in Tuškanac at Jabuka. we are always here for you. A stone’s throw from But, it is also listening to jazz at Maksimir is Zagreb’s football stadium the new Melin on Tkalčićeva. I (capacity: 35,000), home of will eat sarma at Kod Šime on Seven sweet spots the Dinamo Zagreb club, Kvatrić until I die. But, now I Croatia’s national team. can drink craft brew and eat at a #sport along the coolest zeljeznice.net dozen nouveau, gourmet-burger joints. Zagreb is kava at a Dolac little stretch of town kafić. It is cappuccino at Eli’s ho’d think known as I-GLE on Ilica. Wsuch a small (Dežmanova 4). erhaps Zagreb is comfor- stretch could fit in Peek into -Love, Ptable because it changes as so much coolness? Ana (Dežmanova I do—by feeling around in the But fit it does. At 4), the all-white darkness until it finds the next last count, Dežma- studio-store of door to open. Step inside, look nov Prolaz, a tiny product designer THE BEST THINGS for the light switch, turn up tree-lined strip off Ana Tevšić, and IN LIFE ARE FREE * Azra, and hand me an organic Ilica, a ten-minute carry home one burger. The old tram Experience the stroll from Ban of her portable spirit of past times by riding I will follow. Jelačić Square, copper-topped an original 1924 tram around had no less than wood-based Tra- town. The vintage tram de- Insider tip seven sweet spots. veller lamps. Two parts every Sunday at 9.30am A great old-school/new-school Friday The brand-new chic café-bars ca- from the tram stop on Dražen night is easy. Go to Melin Cafe, just Petrović Square, next to the off Tkalčićeva. Snag an outdoor table Dežman Bar (De- lled Velvet by Za- Technical Museum. and sip cocktails while a jazz trio žmanova 3) serves greb’s florist and @tehnicki-muzej.hr/hr/ loosens the mood. Then, catch a cab globally inspired interior decorator aktivnosti/tramvaj/ uptown to Jabuka (www.facebook. designer sandwi- Saša Šekoranja sit com/GKJabuka; Jabukovac 28) and ches like focaccia door to door, one Flying Pen Man rock like it was the 1980s. banh mi and light gray, the ot- Brazilian bauru. her dark. Institut At the two-floored Parfumeur Flo- Coolture Bon Ton store and res (Dežmanova gallery (Dežmano- 9), Zagreb’s first OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN you've checked out va 5) run by two niche perfume CLUBBING, the bookstores, theaters and DJs, look out for store, has win- cinemas but you still want more in-store events or dows gorgeously Zagrepčanec that sticks out of every pocket culture? buy second-hand done up by local in the world Slavoljub records and and world-renow- Penkala was the Croat who Currently on at the CROATIAN streetsy clothing. ned artists such as invented the automatic, also HISTORY MUSEUM is “Ready Check out the Douglas Little, as known as mechanical pencil, Steady Fire,” an exhibit of military sculptural couture well as a small tea at the time described as rifles used by Croatian troops on that “strange pencil which European battlefields over the past six at the flagship bo- room that serves should not be sharpened”. centuries. As part of the exhibit you utique of the fas- Mariage Frères This epochal invention was can see rifles dating as far back as the hion designer duo teas. patented in 1906. Besides late 14th and early 15th centuries, the automatic pencil, Penkala Sanjin Kaštelan some of the earliest rifles in the world. also invented the fountain "80S – SWEET DECADENCE OF pen with a special holder THE POSTMODERN" is the name of for attaching the pen to the the exhibit that’s on until May 10 in the pocket. Thanks to this small Meštrović Pavilion. It sheds light on the addition, for more than a period from the death of Josip Broz hundred years the world Tito to the beginning of the 1990s, has worn pens and fountain when Croatia got its independence. pens attached to the pocket. AN INTERACTIVE PLAYROOM #souvenir #pencil FOR KIDS is open at Klovićevi Dvori until May 18. Toys made of natural materials like wood and stone may QuiZG even unleash your creativity and inspire you to make your own toy. 1. If Sljeme peaks at 1033 Boo to plastic! meters, what is the THE WORLD CUP IN ARM height of the TV tower? WRESTLING will be held on May 9 a) 1199m at Cvjetni Trg. Around 200 teams b) 1133m from 15 countries in Europe, Asia and c) 1099m Africa will participate in the 2. Where in Zagreb did Orson show-down. Welles shoot his 1962 movie The Trial based on Kafka's novel, Rendez-vous The sun is back, all the starring Anthony Perkins and with The Thinker Jeanne Moreau? The Thinker is back in Zagreb! roads lead to the South a) Kaptol The famous statue and other b) Novi Zagreb Direction – South. Finish N masterpieces by Rodin are on c) Trnje display in the Art Pavillion from line – sea. Arrival time – May through September, as part of 3. How many European trophies 90 minutes. The favorite Rendez-Vous, a year-long festival did the late basketball legend of French culture. Rodin's first ren- weekend entertainment Dražen Petrović win in the for people from Zagreb 90 min dez-vous with Za- from Zagreb four years with Cibona Zagreb greb took place in the late spring and in before he left for Real Madrid in 1968, when he summer is going to the and the NBA? came to visit his coast. An hour and a half a) 1 friend, the famous to the coast, and then to islands Krk, b) 2 Croatian sculptor c) 3 Meštrović. Ticket

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