SEP/OCT 2017 Get into the fast lane − run! Sidewalks, parks, banks of the …it doesn’t matter where – just run! Join the growing community of runners that dash through daily. It’s not only morning joggers; long−distance racers now whizz through the city streets too as the season begins. All ages will take part in the #Mliječnastaza fundraising race slated for the second weekend of September. Save Sunday, Oct 8 for the Zagreb marathon that starts at the main square.

Photo: Slavko MIdžor/Pixsell INSTAGRAM*

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr

ZAGREB KNOWS ITS TREES Did you know that Zagreb has one tree per every five citizens? More than FIRST 165,000 trees grow in the city’s parks and lawns, covering over 14 million square meters of space. Zagreb also boasts 18,000 park benches, perfect MINUTE spots for a respite among the greenery. Out of 266 species, Zagreb has DIVE INTO THE OLDEST the most birch, maple and plane trees but you can find a few exotic kinds, too. Look out for Zagreb’s redwood, Mongolian lime, willow, Japanese ‘BOOK’ IN CROATIAN maple, laurel… Venture through Zagreb’s map of greenery to find your uses the favorite tree, or take a stroll through the city’s parks TOP 5 TREES Latin alphabet, so even if or neighborhoods online. @gis.zrinjevac.hr you don’t understand what the words mean you can still TALKABOUT try to read them. But our 20577 WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP GOLD won silver birch earliest writing features the by Sandra Perković inspired renova- (betula pendula) Glagolitic script. Peak inside tions of the city’s athletics hall at the the Croatian Academy of Sci- . Sandra says the space ences and Arts to admire the 6947 th is great but it’s still too small for her Sycamore maple original 11 −century Baščans- discus. #zgsport (acer pseudoplatanus) ka Table, the oldest inscrip- TKALČIĆEVA, Zagreb’s buzziest tion in Croatian, carved on a promenade, has the highest number 8888 monumental stone slab. of international restaurants. Cuisines London plane range from Turkish to Sri Lankan in (platanus x acerifolia) 13 eateries tucked between cafés and boutiques. #streetfoodzagreb WORD 100 KUNAS to spend a night in Za- 6673 greb? Yup, even in some of the city’s Black pine kišobran best rooms, just a stone’s throw away (pinus (kee−sho−bran) nigra) from the main square. Book a night umbrella, ombrello, at one of the city center’s top hostels paraguas, parapluie, online @zagreb.info guarda-chuva 5 KM/H is the new speed limit in town, starting September! Don’t worry — for now, the pilot project applies 傘, 우산, 伞 to Novakova, Medveščak’s dead−end street at Šalata neighborhood. 9916 1 @zagreb.hr Norway maple Redwood (sequoia sempervirens) (Acer platanoides) the oldest tree in town, planted at Tuškanac Park over 100 years ago ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN COME BACK TO READING There’s no better way to rekindle your love of books than to attend a live reading. Catch the 5th edition of the World Literature Festi- Katarina Džale & Rašeljka Maras The creative duo behind Croatia’s Unique Travel val (Sept 3−9) at Kino Set (www.uniquetravelset.com) that has taken the Europa, featuring events Warrior, statesman and poet world by storm with world−renowned Warrior, statesman and a poet too? authors. All genres are That’s right. Before his triumphs included, even graphic during Turkish invasions and the Best of all in fall? novels, comic books and revolutionary years of 1848 and movies based on novels. 1849 when he became Ban and Soaking up sunshine at @fsk.hr ended serfdom, Josip Jelačić Zagreb's cafe terraces wrote poetry. His A Moment of GO GREEN ON Memory collection was published Your fall favorites in Zagreb…. Taking JELAČIĆ SQUARE in 1835. This famous war gen- in the delights of Indian summer and gor- Join the 10th edition of eral sculpted on a horse (a gift geous fall colors that Zagreb bursts with. ZeGeVege Festival of from the Turkish army) spoke six A stroll around the Upper Town is great Sustainable Living. Hit languages: Hungarian, German, in autumn, as is a run around lake. Jelačić square (Sept 8−9 Italian, French, Latin and Croatian, And best of all, you can still catch some throughout the day) and the last of which he declared offi- sun on one of the many café terraces. meet local and interna- cial. In 1866, his statue was placed Your city hideaways… Vintage Industrial tional buffs of healthy on the main square facing north. Bar on Savska has a magical garden and a living. More than 100 Since the 1990s, after the fall of great repertoire of live music gigs, from stalls showcase a wide communism, he has again become jazz to rock. We also love A Most Unusual range of eco products, the centerpiece of Zagreb, his Garden, just steps away from Vintage. It’s including vegan treats. sword now pointing south. a great spot for gin & tonic; in fact, people @zegevege.com in Zagreb call it the “gin garden.” The cof- fee at Quahwa, a tiny coffee shop tucked SPARK UP YOUR away in a courtyard off Teslina street, is WANDERLUST really strong and roasted on site. For the 5th year in a If you’re seeking local designer shops… row, Zagreb Tourfilm Home studios are the best but if you can’t Festival (Sept 13−15) find those we recommend Etno Mara showcases the best ANJA MUTIĆ ( 49), as they design cool clothing that films that promote tour- incorporates typical Croatian heritage, so ism and travel. Looking Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington you’ll find pieces with lace from Pag island for inspiration on where Post. Follow her at @everthenomad or historical and cultural motifs such as to go and what to do on Sinjska Alka. We also love Doll22 (Ilica your next holiday? Head 25), a small concept store with items rang- to the ing from clothes to shoes and jewelry. and catch the crème de Fall for For best souvenirs to la crème of the genre. take home, go to...Take @mimara.hr Zagreb’s fall STROLL Me Home, a cute little AROUND THE store in Tomićeva street t is still steamy hot as I write (near the funicular) Ithis at a tiny café steps from UPPER TOWN with a great range of Zagreb’s . Summer is at handcrafted products its tail’s end and slowly I set my AND RUN by Croatian designers. gaze to fall. With September right AROUND If leaving Zagreb by around the corner, memories of plane, stock up on gifts sea salt, cricket song and pebbles JARUN at the Croatian Design will soon start to fade away. Superstore on the first And that is what I love in Zagreb, floor of the seasons in−between, those – it’s perfect for bye− shoulders that hold the other bye shopping. TREAT YOUR EYES seasons tight. One thing hasn’t TO FAB PHOTOS quite ended, and another has not This year, the Organ yet begun. It’s exactly during those HIDDEN ZAGREB of Sight international transitions in life that the most photography festival exciting things happen. teams up with the Mu- Zagreb does fall so well. The city’s Unique and bizarre in seum of Contemporary calendar gets filled with events Zagreb’s museums Art to present leading and the sidewalk cafes remain photographers, critics buzzy and packed. And those mong 3,6 million exhibits on display and curators. Head to scents creep in, of chestnut wood Ain Zagreb’s museums, three stand out. MSU (Sept 6−20) for and plane trees, with a hint of just Head to the Archeological Museum to the main New Citizens fallen rain. meet Rosie, the famous 2,500−old Zagreb program which includes t’s during fall that seedlings of mummy. In the , look exhibits and workshops Iideas start to grow, and flourish for the list of 146 women accused of witch- or catch supporting hidden during winter sleep. An- craft. And at the Museum of Contemporary events at 11 other loca- other end, another beginning. And Art, track down the precious 1922 Pafama tions around town. that change of pace that befalls the painting by Josip Seissel, the first known @msu.hr city in the most beautiful of ways. abstract composition in . NEW Plan D and Zagreb’s design boom agreb’s design scene is hot and happening, and hospital on Vlaška. This year, Plan D has stepped out Zthis fall brings another proof: the first edition of of the festival format for the first time and become an Plan D festival, slated to take place Sep 27−Oct 1 at international educational design platform, with a pro- the abandoned store behind the Nikola Tesla Techni- gram that’s active throughout the year. A brainchild cal Museum. of the Croatian Designers Association (HDD), the new What exactly is Plan D? It’s an updated version of platform has multiple goals – from training young de- D−Day, an international design festival that was held signers to promoting contemporary design practices. in Zagreb from 2010 to 2016 at various offbeat loca- The festival’s theme this year is Techno−optimism/ tions around the city, including the former military Techno−pessimism, which explores the complex

Are you a techno−optimist or a techno− pessimist? Find out at this year's Plan D fest

QuiZG A day of shopping

1. How many lakes are there in Park? makes for a great start ANDREA PISAC a) 4 of the day. Stock up on the freshest of Global anthropologist and Zagreb writer with a b) 5 fruit and veg from its colorful stalls or twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com c) 6 dive to the ground level for artisan produce. Pick up some flowers on 2. Zagreb has 45 twin towns. nearby Splavnica. Honestly, huddle Which was the first one? up for a story a) Saint Petersburg Antique bookshops will delight b) Lisbon you with their old−world charm and a c) Mainz great range of rare books and maps. ’ve always been intrigued by metaphors Track down Brala (Dežmanova 3) and Iand archetypes. Like the Sun and the 3. Balthazar is the best−known Jesenski i Turk (Vukotinovićeva 4). Moon one representing the balance cartoon out of the Zagreb between our male and female sides. In School of Animated Films. How Britanac Square antiques market is many countries has he been the city’s weekend highlight. Browse the summer, everything is about showing seen in? its eclectic mix of finds, from furniture things off. Walk around Zagreb and you’ll a) 20 and vinyls to old postcards and see its amazing sculptures – most of them b) 25 jewelry. Linger on for coffee to soak of important men. Marulić, the father of c) 30 up the vibe. Croatian literature, Ujević, the Croatian bard, Ban Jelačić, Nikola Tesla... BONUS QUESTION NaMa shopping center is a Next year, the Sljeme cable car cultural experience above all. Roam Then, with the fall approaching, we turn to will start running again. When through the floors of this elegant Art stories and legends, things that are kept in. was the original one built? Deco building (Ilica 6) and admire its And in Zagreb, this is where women lead. a) 1957 interior design featuring wrought−iron Start with Manda, the girl who scooped b) 1963 balconies. water from Manduševac fountain and gave c) 1967 the city its name. There is the Black Queen, ANSWERS: famous for her beauty but infamous for 1 b, Maksimir has five lakes, named torturing her subjects. Poor Zagreb witches First to Fifth. There used to be a have inspired countless harrowing tales. sixth, but it dried out. But there are also kumice, women farmers 2 c, Zagreb declared sisterhood with who stock Dolac market. And the Virgin Mainz in 1967 and Saint Petersburg in 1968. This year, Lisbon and Zagreb Mary who continues granting wishes at the celebrate 40 years as twin towns. Zagreb’s artisans are known for Stone Gate. As the sun dwindles, connect 3 c, Balthazar was shown in 30 fab handcrafted accessories. Track with those stories as you would with your countries, gaining most popularity in down time−tested hats at Cahun (Pod feminine side. Scandinavia. Zidom 8), leather bags from Koza BONUS (Basaričekova 18) or tailor−made b, Sljeme’s first cable car started leather shoes by Zvonimir (Dalmat- Tip: On the last weekend of September, head operating in 1963 and stopped in inska 12). to to meet the personified Black 2007. Queen during the Medieval Days festival. NEW Plan D and Zagreb’s design boom COOL relationship between humans TURE and technology. The organizers have put a call out to students TUNNEL GRIČ turns and young authors (under 30) to into a time machine of exhibit at the International Ex- Croatian history this hibition of Young Authors. Check fall. The interactive out the winning entries, which will Croatia Is Hrvatska be on display at the festival. exhibition opens @pland.hr Sep 16 and runs till November. @infozagreb.hr

PSIHOMODO POP, Zagreb’s punk pioneers, take over Vintage Industrial Bar on Savska on Sep 15. Gobac and his crew make an acoustic comeback with Unpljugd, a rerun of their legendary 90’s gig. #psihomodopop

JOHN MALKOVICH opens the season at Lisinski Concert Hall. On October 7, the Hollywood actor with Croatian roots performs as a narrator alongside pianist Anastasija Terenkova and hornist Radovan Vlatković. @lisinski.hr

ZGBLOG Ways to crack Zagreb

It’s always a breath of fresh air when someone from outside Croa- MIMARA MUSEUM tia spots those cool and unique celebrates its 30th things about Zagreb. Theresa anniversary with a Khalil, an Egyptian filmmaker unique exhibit open based in the city the last couple of until Sept 17. Don’t years, does exactly that at Unique miss 75 selected Zagreb. On Theresa’s blog you’ll pieces, the very best of find out about anything from Mimara’s collection. word−of−mouth yard sales and @mimara.hr international cooking meetups to the best – and only – spot in ORGAN OF THE town for a traditional Chinese tea ceremony. presents organist @uniquezagreb.com Pavao Mašić and conductor Jurica Petrač on Sept 21. Discover the acoustics of Croatia’s biggest church but be quick to grab a seat by 8pm. #katedrala

MORE INFO

The perfect pitstop for those who want to connect with expats and English speakers in Zagreb YELLOW PAGE

33 Dolje

31 Dubec Črnomerec

32 Borongaj

34 Ljubljanica

32 31 Savski most Prečko 33 Savišće

Tram at 4am? NIGHT TRAMS* 31 Črnomerec – Savski most Which one? 32 Prečko – Borongaj 33 Dolje – Savišće Which night tram to catch at Ljubljanica – Dubec 4am? When Zagreb wakes, two 34 conducters wait, to head for Remiza… These opening lines of *running from 11:50pm to 4am 041, a hit song by Azra, Croatia’s legendary rock band, live on. Night trams drive to and from each side of town until 4am, after which day trams begin TIPS&TRICKS to run. Lines 31, 32, 33 and 34 connect the entire city (see map ZAGREB TAXI HELP above). Three out of four lines stop at the main square and the +385 1 1717 112 central train station, and every EXCHANGE RATES, night tram passes the Trauma- (BUY RATE, SEP 1 2017) tology Clinic in Draškovićeva, € 1 7,43; $ 1 6,22; JPY 100 5.66 open 24/7. @zet.hr FOR RAINY DAYS... The Šestine umbrella is one of Zagreb’s most Get bubbly in the recognizable souve- nirs. Grab yours at one of rolling hills of the souvenir shops on Bakačeva N Plešivica street, below the Cathedral. Only 45 km south WI-FI SOLAR BENCHES Look out for smart of Zagreb, the mel- solar-powered benches low Plešivica hills 45 min from Zagreb where you can charge are a magnet for your phone and get free wi-fi wine lovers. Count- access. Currently set up on two less wine routes locations: in front of the Rector branching off from the town building at Marshal Tito Square and in front of the Faculty of of are known as Kinesiology in Horvaćanski Zavoj. Croatia’s Champagne; sparkling wine has become the trademark TIPS FOR of Plešivica’s wine growers. Use STREET MUSICIANS these balmy Indian summer days If the music moves you, for hiking and filling up on hearty a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), food paired with the local riesling the one with the brown and pinot noir. bear, will do the trick. THE MOST USEFUL CARD Tip: Don’t miss With Zagreb Card tourists get the Jaska Wine free transport and six attracti- Days Sept 7−10, a ons, plus ticket traditional food discounts for more than 80 locations. & wine feast ac- Daily card is 98 KN, companied a three−day card with live is 135 KN. A ride music. on the funicular is included. @zagrebcard.com

Don't waste paper. Use it or. . . . . ZAGREB'S STREAMS – LAST THE CITY’S HIDDEN MINUTE WRITE BACK HOME IN WATERWORLD STYLE After you’ve shared enough photos of The city beaches on Jarun and Bundek lakes already fly the Blue Flag. But Zagreb on social media, aside from its landmark river Sava, Zagreb hides many brooks and streams. go back to the old ways. Most bubble up high in the mountain and trickle down. If they hadn’t been paved over due to flooding, Zagreb would have been the Amsterdam of Central Europe. Send a postcard to family Even Tkalča, Zagreb’s buzziest artery, lies on top of one – the Medveščak stream. or friends by snail mail. There’s a good reason Miroševac is why – two brand−new known for a stamps featuring fab number of aerial photos of St Mark’s preserved mills on the eastern Church and Dolac mar- Kraljevec that runs under slopes of ket are a treat for every the was once Medvednica. Its philatelist. Get them at used to power the brick mill Bliznec flows by clean water is any post office or order in Klaićeva. Today only a home to water few factory walls remain. Medveščak the namesake online at @epostshop.hr marks the historic restaurant and lilies, frogs, and boundary between old sawmill at even trouts. Gradec and Kaptol, the entrance to Vrapčak dominates the western side two towns that Medvednica of Medvednica. There, it creates the united into Zagreb Nature Park. Its 4am biggest and most beautiful water only in 1850. It flows water powers cascade on the mountain – Sopot underneath Bloody the lakes in HEAD TO THE waterfall. Bridge street! . MUSEUM…TO Photo: licegrada.hr DANCE Have you ever been to an exhibit that’s actually a par- ty? Museum Katran is the of- ficial new name of Zagreb’s hippest night club. At the city’s prime party address you can choose between four dance floors. Find this 4−in−1 club inside the former factory off Radnička street, just a 15−min stroll or a 5−min taxi ride from the city center. Look out for The best of art from Zagreb's museums events on Facebook page painted on its city walls @museum katran.

After summer – never more! As fall arrives, the crow inva- sion comes to an end. The birds stop nesting, which makes them a little violent. Results of the 2012 crow census show that over 10,000 of these clever birds exist in Zagreb; rumor has it the number has doubled. Don’t Fine art on Zagreb's facades panic, just make olac market’s mega−mural dedicated to painter Vlado Bukovac is yester- sure your garbage Dday’s news, though that’s not the only spot where Julien de Casabianca falls into the left his trace. The French artist paints Croatia’s finest art on many walls, from trash can! Zrinjevac and Kaptol to Tkalčićeva and Paromlinska streets. #outings−project @juliendecasabianca.com Most crows can be found at Jarun, TASTE OF ZAGREB be perfect for cream are a , Trnje, strudel but must. An- Dubrava, Malešnica, powered by Zagreb’s other Remetinec and Taste of Croatia favorite autumn – the Botanical plum− treasure is Garden. Plums on a based plum stru- dessert are del – not as Published by: sweet mission dumplings. popular as an apple 30 stupnjeva For this simple but or cherry one, but still Editors: arly fall in central filling Austro−Hun- a special treat. Good Anja Mutić, ECroatia features the garian sweet, first mix home−made šljivovica Andrea Pisac sweet aroma of damson potatoes and flour is not easy to find, but Contact: plums. By tradition, for the dough. Stuff if you do, it’ll keep [email protected] many will end up in a with whole plums. As you warm in the cold In partnership with pot, for šljivovica plum toppings, melted butter months to come. Zagreb Tourist Board brandy or home−made and bread crumbs with Plum strudel, patisserie Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. jam. Damascenes may a scoop of fresh sour Jakšić, 10KN, kcal 240 www.zagreb4you.com