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“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

October - November 2009

It’s our birthday! Gifts and specials to celebrate!

It’s Autumn Perfect to sip on wine, nibble on cheese, fresh air...

N°50 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com Culture Almanac Take a breakfast and cultural tour around the city with us! Contents 3

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents Arriving in Zagreb 6 Your first view of the capital city

The Basics 7 More than just climate stats (not much)

History 8 Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events 9 Interesting and boring stuff included

Autumn in Zagreb 24 Golden leaves, ruby wine, feelin‘ fine!

Where to stay 28 The sounds of trumpets will add to the spice of life at the Vip Jazzg A place to rest your weary head Festival! See page 20. Dining & Nightlife 35 Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Sightseeing What to see 46 Cafés 40 All those things you mustn’t miss Easily the best scene in the world! Mail & Phones Nightlife 42 Smoke signals and carrier pigeons 50 When you just gotta boogie Getting around 51 Save on shoe leather Transport map 53 Directory Shopping 54 Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Lifestyle Directory 56 The most essential support

Business Directory 59 Become a millionaire in no time Maps & Index Street index 61 City centre map 62 City map 64 Autumn is here and there is not better time to savour a drop of fresh Country map 65 young wine as it gets blessed in and around the different counties of Zagreb on Martinje - a traditional day dedicated to St. Martin who is Index 66 the patron saint to winemakers. See page 24. zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 4 ForeWorD

Hooray! It’s new year! Seriously, here in Zagreb, the end of the summer holidays is Europe In Your Pocket a far more meaningful event in our lives than January 1. It’s now that we start the boring bits of our lives (work, school) with renewed vigour after all that healthy Dalmatian food and vitamin-giving sunshine. Sure, there are elements of pain too in that back-to-school feeling... but when we started rummaging around for new stuff to tell you about, we saw how much there is to look forward to this autumn. On the Culture & Events page overleaf, you’ll find a whole list of festivals and exhibitions which will be in town during October and November. And we’ve a story for you about something really special if you’re a follower of Dionysus. Close to Zagreb are ranges of startlingly pretty hills dotted with little villages, where for generations people have been tending vineyards and making wine. There are two wine routes that lead you through these, and it’s the perfect time to do it. Not only because the landscape is so beautiful right now, but also because this is the time when the locals celebrate the first of the year’s wine with righteous revelry. It’s a unique experience. And you’ll be delighted to know that in association with our sponsors and associates, we have prepared numerous discounts for you which you can take from our 50th edition. Find them whilst enjoying our latest publication. We take this opportunity to thank you for being with us, for taking the time to read and write to us at [email protected] Cheers!

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special Cover Story In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with With this edition, Zagreb In Your the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy Pocket celebrates its 50th time Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement edition, a milestone we’re cer- in our next Russian guides and online at russia. tainly proud of. When we were inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now considering the cover for this get your hands Sarajevo In Your Pocket when edition, we had multitudes of in- visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team teresting photos to choose from. - who have successfully pocketed and This one is by Staša Čimbur, an artist who works in Holland and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to , she dedicated it to our birthday and to Venice. celebration. In October she will We welcome enquiries from anyone who would hold an exhibition in Zagreb. The like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either photo is called ‘Breakfast for Alisa’ and the photo and by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send post-production was made by Silvio Ramić. us an email at [email protected].

Editorial Copyright notice Editor Višnja Arambašić Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield form, except brief extracts for the Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač purpose of review, without written Zagreb In Your Pocket Researcher Anita Piplović permission from the publisher and Draškovićeva 66 Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan copyright owner. The brand name In Your Karabogdan Pocket is used under license from UAB tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). [email protected] Cover: Silvio Ramić www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket ISSN 1333-2732 guides is independent from paid-for ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Account Manager Mirna Cindrić advertising. Sponsored listings are General Manager Višnja Arambašić clearly marked as such. We welcome all Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Sales & Circulation Manager readers‘ comments and suggestions. Kristijan Vukičević We have made every effort to ensure Published 6 times per year the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 6 Arriving in ZAgreB BAsiCs 7

By train save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more Tourist information Customs people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as user- equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed Tourist Information Centre have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at tel. 481 40 51/ 481 40 53, info@ secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb- are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, touristinfo.hr. Free info phone num- will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it  ber 0800 53 53. QOpen 08:30 papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. keep them with you. the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for Visas By bus ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your call 610 23 25/610 24 61. your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be Electricity republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front The electricity sup ply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 08:00 more visa information contact the Consular Department of of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the United States will need to use a trans form er to run electrical - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn. ap pli anc es. the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required Internet cafe that’s open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for Religion hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located These days Croatia is fairly monotone in reli gious terms. Having al- a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building ways ex ist ed on the frontiers of three religions; Cath o lic, Orthodox station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport! along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange and Mus lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left However, since the most recent conflicts the popu la tion has be- come over whelm ing ly Cath o lic with the 2001 Cen sus re cord ing Smoking luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) A total ban on smoking in public spaces (including all cafes, located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall 87.83% as loyal to . restaurants, bars and clubs) came into force on May 6. for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small Roads culture in which people tend to socialize outdoors until well staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure into the autumn, the ban has had next to no effect on people’s to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this lifestyles thus far. What it does mean is that outdoor tables when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under at eating and drinking establishments are even more packed left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, than usual. But it has never been easier to find a spare seat tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, at even the most popular restaurants if you’re prepared to tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others move inside. bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the 60 - 80kn to get to the centre. Street smarts mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably Climate ulica street

By plane stube staircase Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located put way Basic data 30 100 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into prolaz passage trg square Population: the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. 20 75 The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both most bridge Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 domestic and international arrival and departure areas are avenija avenue Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 10 located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what cesta road Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% , 4.54% 50 could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside Serbs, 5.83% other. 0 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office -10 25 complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and It shares borders with Hun ga ry, Slovenia, Serbia & Mon- ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information National holidays tenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 0 Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The The high est peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office January 1 New Year’s Day which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia- January 6 Epiphany have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top Herzegovina. April 4 (2010) Easter floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction Market values April 5 (2010) Easter Monday Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the for good reason - the crystal clear wa ters are some of the May 1 International Workers' Day most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Compare the list of daily necessities: bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every June 3 (2010) Corpus Christi half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian 1kg of beef 65kn €8.85 June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day coast, 47 of them inhabited. 10 eggs 12kn €1.63 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can June 25 Statehood Day catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the Rivers: The longest river is the at 562km. It ambles McDonald‘s Big Mac 17kn €2.32 August 5 Victory and Homeland just south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis tance Loaf of white bread 7kn €0.95 city should cost no more than 200kn (start 25kn, 1km/7kn, Thanksgiving Day luggage 5kn). If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn €0.68 August 15 Feast of the Assumption country. 20 Marlboros 22kn €2.99 then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car October 8 Independence Day agencies to choose from. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Euro pe an Time Public transport ticket 8kn €1.09 November 1 All Saints’ Day Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, December 25 Christmas 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and Exchange rates (as of 18. 09. 2009): December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day www.inyourpocket.com 21:00 in Sydney. US$1 = 4,96kn €1 =7,31kn £1 = 8,12kn

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 8 historY

In the beginning... Around 625 A.D. a Slavic tribe known as Puniša Racić, a Serbian ex tremist. Four of Radić’s col leagues the Croats makes its way south from present-day Po land. The are also shot and killed; he dies from his wounds a cou ple of ex o dus takes over a cen tury in its progression. months later. A young Croat known by the nick name Tito be- 9th Century In 800 the Church of the Holy Cross of Nin is comes lead er of the Com mu nist Party of Yu go sla via in 1937. inscribed with the Latin Here the weak man is brought to Communism And Beyond - World War II be gins in 1939 light because of Prince Višeslav’s Chris tian con version. By and by 1941 Yugoslavia is part of the fight ing. Military and the end of the century (879) Croatia is recognised as an in- ideological al le giance is split three ways: Tito’s Partizani depen dent state under Branimir's rule. army resists the Nazi regime on Ger man and Italian oc cu- 10th Century Croatia reaches its greatest pow er under the pied fronts; the Ante Pavelić led Ustaša faction supports rule of Tomislav (910 - 929) who brings Croats together to Hitler; the Serbian Četnici seek to re tain the Yu go sla vi an form a unified state. Granted pa pal permission, he rules a mon ar chy, (although also were known to collaborate with the great army and repels Hungarian forces (924). Pope Clem ent fas cists). Ger man forc es con trol a large ter ri tory in cen tral IV crowns him king in 925. and eastern Croatia, re ferred to as the In de pen dent State 11th Century Croatia is both offi cial ly and irre vers ibly Catho- of Croatia (NDH). lic with the reign of King Petar Krešimir (1058 - 1074). The 1943 The Anti-Fascist National Liberation Coun cil of Yu go- name Zagreb is first employed as a name for the land south sla via meets and sets up their first parlia ment. AVNOJ is led of Moun tain in 1094. by Tito, re-af firm ing fascist resistance and expressing intent 12th Century Croatia en ters a person al union with Hun ga ry to con trol Yugoslavia. (1102). The two countries share kings for the next 400 years 1945 Yugoslavia is lib er at ed from Nazi forc es. Some of but remain sep a rate states both cul tural ly and legally. the Pavelić-led Ustaša at tempt to flee to Aus tria and are 13th Century Four cru sades are led against the peo ple of cap tured by Partizan forces near the town of Bleiburg. They the Dal ma tian coast. In 1204, crusad ers oc cu py ing Zadar are sur ren der and are im medi ately ex e cut ed. It’s hard to believe giv en a fleet of war ships by Pope Innocent III, help ing them that the orders for this act were not known of or des ig nat ed control the re gion. by Tito, but it remains a matter of great de bate. Tito is soon 14th Century Pope Clem ent V at tacks Zadar (1312) and in con trol of Yu go sla via. Pavelić evades cap ture and es capes Venice takes control of a large part of the coast, in clud ing to Ar gen ti na. both Split and Nin. 1948 Stalin fails in his at tempt to per suade Tito to ally himself 15th Century King Ladislav (Na ples) sells enor mous tracts with the staunch com mu nism prac ticed in the So vi et Union. off the Dal ma tian coast to Venice (1409). The Ottoman Turks The move creates great tension between the two pow ers invade (1493) and nearly all of the Croatian ar is toc ra cy are and is not whol ly sup port ed by the peo ple. This is one of the killed in the Krbavska battle. They’re able to take over much few as pects of the Tito legacy that is pop u larly sup port ed of the country. Though they closely approach Zagreb on nu- by the Croats. merous occassions, they’re never able to cap ture it. 1961 Tito for mu lates a no tion of Nesvrstani (Non-Al lied 16th Century Pope Leo X calls Croatia Antemurale Coun tries) as a reac tion to the re cent creation of NATO and Christianitatis (a perimeter bul wark) as it strug gles to sur- the Warsaw Pact. vive the wrath of the Otto mans (1519). In 1526 Ludovik 1967 - 1971 A Serbo-Croat dic tio nary is pub lished, seem ing II, the last king of Croatia, is killed in the battle of Mohac. to make Serbian the stan dard lan guage and Croatian a sub- Austrian Duke Ferdinand is given the crown to get pro tec tion or di nate to it. The Decla ra tion Con cern ing the Name and from the Turks. Position of the Croatian Lan guage is published im me di ately 17th Century Counts Zrinski and Frankopan, two leaders of thereaf ter, demand ing the recognised equal i ty of all four Yu- pow er ful Croatian families, at tempt to start a revolt against go sla vi an state lan guag es. A ripple of Croatian na tion al ism the Aus tri an rulers but fail. They are hunted down and be- begins to be felt, ideologically referred to as Croatian Spring headed in 1671. By the end of the 17th Century, cen tral (Hrvatsko proljeće). Tito briefly aligns him self with the Croatian Croatia is sovereign of the Turk ish armies. Spring though soon chang es his opin ion, feeling this action 18th Century The last year of the Ottoman pres ence is 1718. goes against his Yu go sla vi an ral ly ing cry of broth er hood and Mar ia Theresa be comes the empress (1740) and the first uni ty (Bratstvo i jedinstvo). female ruler of the Austro-Hun gari an empire. Her son Joseph 1980 - 1988 Tito dies on May 4, 1980, thus sig nalling the II in herits the throne. After his death, Hungary at tempts to be gin ning of the end of Yu gosla via as it had so long been Hungarianise the Croats, which man i fests in an at tempt ed known. The de cade is a turbulent one for the Croatian co ercion of cultural, lin guistic and social con ven tions. people, many wish ing to retain the pol i tics and ideologies of 19th Century The Na po le on ic French wrestle away Tito, and a great many others wish ing to express their in de- from Rus sian and Montenegrin forc es who are fighting for the pen dence and a more dem o crat ic vi sion. The economies of city (1808). Though their occupation proves to be very short both Yu go sla via and Croatia begin a steady decay, greatly (ending in 1813), French forces reach a spot mere kilometres height en ing ten sions. from Zagreb before being turned away. Ljudevit Gaj (1834), re- 1990 An uprising of the people demands the first democratic spurns the pa tri ot ic Illyrian movement which serves to mend vote, and a nationalist ex-Par ti zan gen er al named Franjo the many lan guag es and dia lects of the coun try into one. It Tuđman (HDZ) is named the first presi dent ever of the Croatian also creates a renewed sense of na tion al ism and by 1847 state. Though he wins the pop u lar vote, he fac es a ter ri bly Croatian replaces Lat in as the of ficial lan guage in Par lia ment. segregated state. Serbian military pres ence (JNA - Yugoslav In 1848 Croatian Duke Jelačić helps Aus tria to sup press a Peo ple’s Army) and po lice in fluence com mands a supremely Hungar i an re bel lion and abol ish es serfdom. pow er ful fac tion within the new ly in depen dent Croatia, cre- Early 20th Century Aus tri an Duke Ferdinand is as sas si nat ed at ing an electrifying cur rent of tension. A ref er en dum results by Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip (1914) and World War I begins. in an over whelm ing vote for an in de pen dent Croatia. The Aus tria at tacks Serbia, di vid ing Croatian sen ti ment. The first Croatian con sti tu tion is writ ten, pro fess ing Croatia an Austro-Hungarian mon archy is ultimately de stroyed (1918), independant and dem o crat ic state. and a new al li ance is brought about called the King dom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. It’s a tense union, with the balance of pow er clearly held by Serbia. In a ses sion of par-  Zagreb lia ment in 1928, the lead er of the HSS, (Croatian Peas ants' Par ty) Stjepan Radić is shot for his in de pen dent pos tur ing by telephone code is +385-1

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 10 Culture & events Culture & events 11

October 09/10/2009 Ramona Falls B-4, &TD Theatre, 01 - 04/10/2009 Ladyfest Zagreb - Vox Feminae Savska 25. The side project of Brent Knopf who is a member 3 A-3, AKC Medika, Pierottijeva 11. A jam packed festival of the indie trio Menomena. Knopf named Ramona Falls after with the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday program dedicated a hiking trail on Oregon’s Mount Hood. The first album from to film, also on Friday and Saturday there will be numerous his project is called Intuit and features guest appearances gatherings and concerts by Suicidal Birds (HOLL), Starke (BiH), from 35 different musicians, including members of the Helio and Anshie (CRO) whilst Sunday will have a special market Sequence, Mirah’s band, Loch Lomond, and 31 Knots. Q called Special Queer Sunday. Exhibitions included! Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets 45 - 60kn. Box office open 11:00 - 13:00 Closed Sun. 01, 05, 14, 24/10/2009 Gioachino Rossini: Cinderella B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala 10, 13, 15, 17, 19 & 21/10/2009 Pyotr Ilyich Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18. When it gets to the nitty- Tchaikovsky: Sleeping Beauty B-3, Croatian National gritty, just think that the original version of this tale was made Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 in the early 19th century and Rossini composed the music 18. The aesthetic beauty of ballet shines through what in just 24 days. This was one of his most complex operas as is considered one of the most beautiful works of classical aside from having a recognizable sense of comedy; it was ballet literature. Created as an ideal cooperation between musically more demanding than any other. This masterpiece the composer Tchaikovsky and choreographer and librettist which is full of humanity is sure to warm your hearts. Q Marius Petip, this exceptional work still poses a challenge for Tickets 80 - 150kn. Box office open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat every choreographer and each ballet ensemble. Q Tickets 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 80 - 150kn. Box office open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00- 13:00, 17:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 01 - 06/10/2009 Urban Festival One event that keeps the scene alive and this year’s title is (In)stead of 10 - 17/10/2009 zagreb kom 4 - The 4th Zagreb Borders. This is more of a multimedia manifestation that is International Festival of Chamber Music B-2, held across various city locations; with the goal of bringing art Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6. Audiences will closer to the urban public and encourages greater interaction. have a fantastic opportunity to hear the classical gems of Visit www.urbanfestival.hr for exact details. chamber music over seven nights. There will be 7 concerts with 25 performers deriving from 15 different nations. 03, 07, 09, 10/10/2009 Marko Juraga: Other’s Susanna Yoko Henkel, Stefan Milenković, Itamar Golan, Monika songs, my dreams C-1, Comedy Theatre, Kaptol 9. Leskovar, Giovanni Sollima, and Edin Karamazov are amongst Remember some of the great musicals from the past; The the stars. Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr and for the entire American in Paris, Mary Poppins, The Producers, A man from programme visit www.zagreb-festival.com. Mancha and others... Well you can expect to hear certain songs from these classics as author and director Marko 15/10/2009 John Vanderslice A-4, &TD Theatre, Juraga has cunningly linked them into this charming love story. Savska 25. In 1997 Vanderslice founded an all-analogue Starring Dražen Bratulić, Danijela Pintarić and conducted by recording studio as he often uses analogue instruments and Krešimir Batinić. Q Tickets 60 - 120kn. Available at the box recording equipment to produce a richer more raw sound. office in Oktogon, 5 (C-2) open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 He plays indie rock and he has gained critical acclaim for the -13:00 and before the show. melodic quality, poetry and sophisticated lyrical content within his songs. He tours in support of his new album Romanian 04/10/2009 Cesaria Evora J-3, Tvornica, Pavla Names. Q Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets 45 - 60kn. Box Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73. Dubbed the ‘barefoot office open 11:00 - 13:00 Closed Sun. diva’ since she performs barefoot in concerts as a symbol of compassion towards unprivileged women, this African 17/10/2009 Saint Petersburg Philharmonics J-4, born singer has also been labelled as the Queen of Morna; Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, a musical genre that is connected to Portuguese Creoles; tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. See Russia’s oldest Symphonic nostalgic ballads that allude to suffering and lost love. With Orchestra at its best! Legendary conductor Temirkanov over four-million albums sold worldwide she brings her emotive continues to hold the reigns even after 20 years of loyalty. As voice and sounds to Zagreb. Q Concert starts at 21:00. a bonus, the audience will be able to hear a solo performance Tickets 250 - 330kn. Available at www.eventim.hr. by the new great pianist of our time, Nikolai Luganski who has filled world stages in New York, Paris and Tokyo. Q Concert 06/10/2009 Tarja Turunen J-3, Tvornica, Pavla starts at 19:30. Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73. Soprano singers are a common element in numerous heavy rock genres and the 17 - 23/10/2009 Gavella’s Evenings B-2, Gavella angelic voice of Turunen is of no exception. This lyricist, who is Theatre, Frankopanska 8. This is said to be one of the most known as the former lead vocalist of the Finnish power most important home theatre festivals that gathers the metal band Nightwish, turned solo in 2005 and has since cream of the crop and all in the one place. The shows are an pursued a very active career. Her latest album is called ‘My excellent blend of both local and international versions from Winter Storm’. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 180kn. Dostoyevsky’s Crime and Punishment to Menažerija, which Available at www.ticketpro.hr. effectively highlights the talents of young local directors. The fact that there are more than 10 shows to see with modes 06/10/2009 The Royal Concertgebouw and plots that vary so much, it is safe to say that there is Orchestra H-3, , Trg Krešimira Ćosića definitely a balance of conventional theatre as well as a band 11. Rated as the best world orchestra for the year 2008 of propulsive shows which bring to light some new trends according to the British magazine Gramophone, they’ve into the Croatian world of theatre. Evenings at Gavella are found international success through their interpretations of sure to enrich your nights! Q Full schedule available at compositions by (Béla Bartók, Sergej Rahmanjinov, Sergej www.gavella.hr. Prokofjev). To be conducted by Daniel Harding who is also receiving excellent reviews for his master performances. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 100 - 200kn at the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall J-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, 10:00 - 18:00, Lost the beat? Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sunday. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 12 Culture & Events Culture & Events 13

Zagreb kom 4 18/10/2009 Orchestra and Choir of the Russian melodramatic liveliness of some of the great Hitchcock films’, Chapel J-4, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana says art director James Levine. The story of three people: Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. This is yet another a famous opera singer, a free lance painter and a sadistic Russian phenomenon that gained world fame in the 1970’s police chief are all entwined in a web of love and politics. It’s by winning the Guido d’Arezzo in Italy. Under the guidance directed by Luc Bondy, famous for his imaginative drama and of Valerij Poljanski, critics have been praising the ensemble opera productions. Q Event starts at 19:00. ever since. Today, they are a symbol of the highest level of 27, 31/10 & 02, 04, 06/11/2009 Georges Bizet - artistic expression and musical professionalism.Q Concert Carmen B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita starts at 19:30. 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18. When it originally premiered 18 - 24/10/2009 The 7th Festival at the Parisian Opera Comique in 1875 it shocked the then Europa Cinema B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 conservative French audience. The power of passion changed 88, Students Centre B-4, Savska 25, Tuškanac Cinema to brutality and was difficult to accept. The newest production B-1, Tuškanac 1, Movieplex Cinema C-1, conducted by Johannes Wildner divides audiences because 11. Fans of film look out as 90 films will be shown across of the shortened partitures and the reduced Spanish folklore. nine different programmes. New programmes include Q Tickets 80 - 150kn. Box office open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat Film as propaganda (films made in totalitarian countries 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. portraying totalitarian regimes in a positive way) and reruns 28/10/2009 Doro I-4, Boogaloo Club, Vukovarska of Vip Bibijada will head the children’s programme. The 68. Classical heavy rock fans will be in awe as the glamour main competition includes 10 to 12 feature films, 15 short queen of metal is set to rattle the stage at Boogaloo. Her films and 12 documentaries. It isn’t Hollywood and that will career has seen her work with many great artists of the genre suit many.Q Full programe is available at www.zagrebfilm as her rock like voice is unique and well suited. The leather festival.com. and tights return as do her famous singles from the 80’s and 20/10/2009 Mudhoney H-5, Pauk Rock club, beyond. Q Tickets 160kn from www.eventim.hr. Jarunska 2, tel. (+385-1) 301 14 48. Who could ever forget 28/10/2009 Noche de la música en español D-3, the wave of grunge in the early 90’s that had come out of Sax Club, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36. A Seattle, the melting pot of the rock genre? Amongst the many night of Spanish music and culture comes your way! Meet bands Mudhoney was one of the influential groups that helped people with a passion for Hispanic customs whilst organisers inspire the dirty, high-distortion sound of grunge. Despite little are inviting people to enter the song contest. Simply choose commercial success they’ve always had a cult following! Q your favourite Spanish song and send in your details to info@ Tickets 100kn at the Student’s Centre Box office B-4, Savska urbanevile.hr, once you receive a confirmation we suggest 25. Open 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. you begin rehearsing in the shower, on the street... This could 24/10/2009 Metropolitan in Lisinski, Giuseppe be your very step to fame as you sing along to a live band in Verdi: Aida J-4, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg front of a live audience. Be quick as applications close Oct Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. See one of 4. Q Tickets 20kn. the classics with this heartbreaking love story and drama which is filled with epic scenes. The cast have powerful voices and is led by Violeta Urmana who stars as the captured Ethiopian princess and Dolora Zajick is her rival. Johan Botha plays Radames, the head of the Egyptian army and it’s conducted by Daniele Gatti. Q Event starts at 19:00. 24 & 25/10/2009 Days of Oris I-5, (11d Pavilion), Avenija Dubrovnik 15. Architecture is back on the agenda and this is the 9th year running that this symposium presents the very best in world architecture whilst also acknowledging the works of local and regional architects. Guests include: Aaron Betsky (USA), Smiljan Radic (Chile), Fernando Menis (Spain), Eduardo François (France), Junya Ishigami (Japan) and others. 25/10/2009 Metropolitan in Lisinski, Giacomo Puccini: Tosca J-4, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. ‘This opera combines Puccini’s magnificent musical inspiration with the Saint Petersburg Philharmonics

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 14 Culture & events Culture & events 15

own musical sound which is a blend of bass string rock with 10 & 11/11/2009 The 1st Croatian Blues French chanson. Add to that her colourful clothes and Parisian Challenge 2009 D-2, Sax Club, Palmotićeva 22, tel. wittiness, Fournier is seen as the sentimental act in this (+385-1) 487 28 36. Call it the baptism of fire as this is a French trio. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn. new event on the autumn calendar. Fans of blues music take Available at www.eventim.hr. note as this is a qualifying contest for the 26th International 30 & 31/10 Beat Busters Birthday party A-3, Blues Challenge 2010 which will be held in January of next AKC Medika, Pierottijeva 11. In celebration of their 1st year in Memphis, Tennessee, USA. Q Concert starts at birthday, Beat Busters are holding a bash and will entertain 18:00. Tickets 20kn. you with excellent music and performances; an exhibition, 18/11/2009 Tommy Emmanuel and Martin workshops, screenings and tasty pancakes! See Capisconne O’Connor Trio H-3, Dom Sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića and Less Than A Minute play live with support by DJ Phillipe 11. Whizz on guitar from down under! Emmanuel has literally on the opening night whilst Tonogan, Dzeneration 81 and DJ made Zagreb a second home as he performs so readily Chatko ft MC Chakka the following night. Q Tickets 30kn/ here. He’s best known for his complex finger-picking style, per night. energetic performances and his use of percussive effects on guitar. In 2008, according to the readers’ poll of Guitar Player November Magazine, Tommy Emmanuel was named as Best Acoustic Mando Diao Guitarist. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 150 - 200kn. 02/11/2009 Oumou Sangare J-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Available at www.eventim.hr. 30/10/2009 The French Kiss Tour: Oshen, Zaza Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 Fournier and Claire Denamur J-3, Tvornica, Pavla 11 66. A taste of the African state of Mali comes to Zagreb 19/11/2009 Johnny Winter I-4, Boogaloo Club, Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73. Oshen - Playing both the with this talented diva performing for the first time. She’s Vukovarska 68. American blues guitarist, singer and piano and trumpet Oshen blends a mixture of sophisticated huge in her native continent and is beginning to get deserved producer best known for his southern blues and rock and lyrics with an electro pop sound. She promotes her latest attention throughout Europe. Her career began in 1989 with roll style, as well as his physical appearance as he was born album and is often compared to Riat Mitsuoko with a dash her successful debut album and her latest entitled Seya has with albinism. In 2003, Winter was ranked 74th in Rolling of James Brown and Bjork - known to build a bond with the been receiving great reviews.Q Tickets 140 - 180kn. Box Stone Magazine’s list of the 100 Greatest Guitarists of All audience. Claire Denamur - A seductive voice so ladies keep office open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Time. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 180kn at www. your husband’s at bay! Denamur sings about the sensuality eventim.hr. 06/11/2009 Massive Attack H-3, Dom Sportova,Trg of love and relationships, she plays the acoustic guitar and 20/11/2009 Kultur Shock J-3, Tvornica, Šubićeva 2. her sound has elements of folk and jazz. Zaza Fournier - Krešimira Ćosića 11. This British duo will tour in promotion of their new album which is due out in September. Considered This just might bring an added freshness to the live gigs scene Having sung songs by Edith Piaf and Elvis Presley at Piazza with this Seattle-based gypsy punk band which specializes in Beaubourg in her early days, she has since developed her to be the progenitors of the genre known as ‘trip hop’, these lads from Bristol are also renowned for the amazing visual mixing modern music like rock, metal and punk with traditional experience they produce live on stage. Q Concert starts Balkan music. This weird combination of genres has given at 20:00. Tickets 220kn at all Ticketpro outlets or at www. the band great success and they’ve played with the likes of TEDxZagreb ticketpro.hr. Gogol Bordello, Iggy Pop and The Wailers. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 100 - 130kn at www.eventim.hr. 14/11/2009 TEDxZagreb I-4, Faculty of 07/11/2009 Eros Ramazzotti H-5, , Lanište. Italian pop-rock icon who has gained popularity 26/11/2009 Mando Diao I-3, Boogaloo Club, Modern Gallery Electrical Engineering and Computing. Looking for Vukovarska 68. To think that the name of this Swedish something new and stimulating? An event that motivates that goes beyond the shores of his native homeland as he’s worked with the likes of Ricky Martin, Tina Turner and garage rock band doesn’t have any specific meaning might 15/10 - 06/12 Intimism in Croatian Fine Art the mind and embraces a deeper level of thinking - then sound bizarre to some, but not to worry as their music is well from the 1930s unitl the 1950s C-3, Modern TEDxZagreb might be your source of inspiration. Anastasia in the past. He tours in promotion of his latest album Ali e Radici. Q Tickets 250 - 660kn. Available at worth the listen. Proclaimed as one of the best new bands in Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. 604 10 55, www. TED stands for Technology, Entertainment, and Design www.eventim.hr. Sweden, they’re touring to promote their latest album Give moderna-galerija.hr This could be history in the making - three broad subject areas that are collectively shaping Me Fire. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 190 - 250kn. with an exhibition that for the first time discusses the our future. TED is an international company that hosts Available at www.eventim.hr. most personal art inspirations of thirty renowned Croatian conferences and media initiatives with the goal of painters. Over 120 works from leading museum and 26 - 30/11/2009 The Festival of New Circus gallery collections including numerous private collections bringing people together and allowing for the sharing and Zagreb Youth Theatre C-2,Teslina 7, Zagreb Puppet discussion of ideas. It is dubbed ‘the ultimate brain spa’ open up the spectrum of their entire pus or certain Theatre C-3,Trg kralja Tomislava 19, Jedinstvo Hall I-4, cycles which were inspired by their own intimacy. Besides and has over the years attracted speakers such as Bill Trnjanski nasip bb. The focus of this festival is on female Clinton, Bill Gates, and Bono amongst others. TEDxZagreb displaying some of the famous master pieces by Emanuel contemporary circus art with guests from France, USA, Vidović, Jerolim Miše, Oton Postružnik, Ivo Dulčić, Antun is an independent event operated under the license from Germany, Great Britain, Sweden, Columbia and Croatia. The TED. It will be a one-day conference which will incorporate Motika, Slavko Šohaj, the exhibition also reveals the star will be Jeanne Mordoj who appears as a bearded lady, less famous paintings by Ljubo Babić, Bruno Bulić, Ivan TEDTalk videos with numerous live speakers from various whilst Melissa Von Vepy is the flying artist on the mirror. The fields of expertise. Dulčić, Miron Makanac, Antun Mezdjić, Omer Mujadžić, diversity and range is huge with heaps of acts. Visit www. Nikola Reiser and other famous and popular painters of The common theme is ‘Mind Wide Open’ and as the name cirkus.hr for programme details. the previous century. suggests; outstanding individuals from Croatia, Europe 27/11/2009 Backstreet Boys - This Is Us Tour and the USA will give rousing talks, share their ideas, H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište. This gig ought to cover testimonies and discoveries. From writers and scientists numerous generations as the Backstreet Boys have been to economists, entrepreneurs and artists, some will share together since 1993 and this so called ‘boy band’ have had 13 personal experiences while others will explore certain Top 40 hits having sold over 100 million albums. After a pause topics, address global issues and ways of thinking for the from the music scene they return with their pop-driven sound. future. Presentations are succinct and the programme Q Tickets 200 - 500kn. Available at www.ticketpro.hr. includes brief presentations of new technologies and short art performances. Discussion panels aren’t on 28/11/2009 Kočani Orkestar J-3, Tvornica, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73. Excellent Balkan the agenda but breaks are offered between sessions to Oumou Sangare informally discuss, gather and network with others. Gypsy brass band from Macedonia that is fantabulous when it comes to dancing and singing the night away. New band TEDxZagreb will be a melting pot for thinkers and doers. leader Bilent Saliev skilfully coordinates his musicians to A setting that will enable the spreading of ideas and the Lost the beat? produce a rhythmic high tempo sound that creates a great deliberation of what the future holds. Q Registration fee atmosphere and it’ll be difficult to find anyone standing still. 250kn. Available at www.tedxzagreb.info. zagreb.inyourpocket.com Q Tickets 60 - 80kuna. Available at www.eventim.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 16 Culture & events Culture & events 17

Exhibitions 01 - 15/10/2009 If you do not know what the south is, it is simply because you are from the north C-2, Nova Gallery, Teslina 7, tel. (+385-1) 487 25 82. In connection with the 11th Istanbul Biennial this exhibition ponders on numerous social and economic issues, in addition it questions the social position of art and its achievements in modern capitalism. From an orchestra playing in an empty swimming pool to wooden letters used to write a message - international artists speak their mind of the global world through video, exhibits and collage. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. 01 - 15/10/2009 Marko Tadić: I Speak true things E-2, Miroslav Kraljević Gallery, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 459 26 96. Tadić presents his new works: a series of drawings, a video installation and a book. The basis of his work is around ‘The Island’ - a place of the unknown. Drawings on old geography maps and postcards evoke works Ferdo Quiquerez, Porta terraferma 1875, Zagreb - Munich: Croatian from his earlier series’ which he has adapted and changed. Fine Art and the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich 1870 - 1920 Tadić’s search for the truth has a touch of mysticism about it, which is a part of his style. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 01 - 07/10/2009 Ivana Franke: Lability C-3, Art 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 01 - 25/10/2009 Vladimir Meglić: STOlica 70. Ivana Franke will bring light to your day as this exhibition is stoLICA (Chairs, One-hundred Faces) B-3, Arts and in-fact a light installation. Her continuous interest in illusionary Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 phenomenon see’s her question our understanding of space 21 11. Pull up a chair, or two, or three... Meglić has done just and the insecurity it may bring as our perceptions of space that as he showcases an almost unknown segment of his alter with movement, surroundings and time. opus - a cycle of chairs as independent three-dimensional 01 - 08/10/2009 Ivica Šiško: Open Space C-2, objects painted or made in mosaic. He turns witty with great Forum Gallery, Teslina 16, tel. (+385-1) tel. 481 07 10. use of colour and detail. Well known artist Ivica Šiško presents 15 of his new artworks 01 - 30/10/2009 Black, White, Fluorescent! as he uses acrylic on canvas. Made between the year 2005 B-2, Marisall Gallery, Mesnička 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 and 2009, in this cycle thematic components are not seen 78. Colour is the order of the day here and at this exhibit just as heritage value or memorized spiritual stations, but black and white colours contrast the fluorescent so that the Hat in the Picture also as an enticing move towards a new creative step powerful disparity fills the interior space with tension. The forward. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed artists attempt to evoke the visual strength colour. Some 27/10 - 06/11/2009 Sun. No admission. include Roberta Vilić, Vanja Popek, Marin Majić and others. Staša Čimbur: Hat in 01 - 11/10/2009 : Graphic design: QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. the Picture C-2, Europski Retrospective B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg Admission free. dom, Jurišićeva 1/1, tel. maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11. Over 230 (+385-1) 481 34 14. This works by this fine artist of graphic design will stage his is an artist of a different ideas, posters, flyers and book covers made since the Baker Fun for the whole family sort who has captured Matejčić caricatures from 1942 and Partisan bukvar from audience’s globally with her 1944. Through Pal’s work one can see the cultural, social and zagreb.inyourpocket.com eccentric art innovations political changes over the years. and accessories. Having c o m p l e t e d n u m e r o u s 01 - 11/10/2009 Interzone: Gender Galženica studies in arts and crafts Gallery, Stjepana Radića 5, Velika Gorica, tel. (+385-1) Renata Svetić within Croatia and abroad, 622 11 22. This is a continuation of this year’s series of Čimbur has gained an exhibitions dedicated to the globalization phenomena and international reputation it is quite specific as it offers an insight into the question 01 - 31/10/2009 Marija Braut: My Zagreb in within the scene itself. She of gender and gender relations/roles within context. Artists colour C-1, , Opatička 20, tel. frequently appears in TV and print media throughout from both local and neighbouring countries will present their (+385-1) 485 13 61. This is 10 years of work put into the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, and Israel, amongst works. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. one exhibit; Marija Braut presents her personal vision of the other countries. Art and fashion publications such as Closed Mon. city of Zagreb and its people. The coloured photographs Cosmopolitan, Elle and Avenue have featured her in their 01 - 13/10/2009 Jules’ Blue Period - Comic encompass scenes from the Lower and Upper Town, respective magazines and she has presented her works books by Julije Radilović in the ‘Plavi vjesnik’ important monuments, urban scenes etc. The exhibition will at over 90 exhibitions across museums and galleries. C-1, ULUPUH Gallery, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 be accompanied by the two-language catalogue including So what are these fine creations that she produces to 37 46. Comic lovers can see how this renowned Croatian an interview. ascertain such recognition? Staša Čimbur creates hats author published 13 comics in the newspaper ‘Plavi vjesnik’ 01/10 - 31/12/2009 The Power of Colour D-3, and headgear, bags and receptacles, parasols, scarves, between 1956 and 1969. Amongst them were two big hits: Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) printed fabrics, wearable objects; as well as objects the series on Captain Leši (1960-1964) and the series on 482 62 20. How colours have conquered the world? The and fabric paintings for interiors through the use of a Sherlock Holmes (1966-1969). ‘Through passed centuries’ purpose of this exhibition is to show the history, the symbolic wide variety of materials and techniques. To see is to (1956-1959) was a historical saga dealing with the arrival meaning, science and psychology of colours. To show how believe - so come and see this new age artist who truly of Croatians to the Adriatic coast until the invasion of the something that doesn’t really exist, in-fact does through the is an artist of the accessory. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat Tatarians in the 13th century. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 The 8th Triennial of Croatian Sculpture, Viktor Popović, Bez naziva, products of light, vision and the complex biological elements 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. detalj, 2003. of the human eye and brain.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 18 Culture & events Culture & events 19

www.inyourpocket.com 20/10 - 20/12/2009 The 10th Triennial of Croatian Sculpture I-2, The of the Croatian Academy of Science and Arts, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50. Held every three years and first began in 1982. This exhibit will pay tribute to all the awarded winners of the past whilst showcasing the progress of Croatian art sculpture within the last three years - with an emphasis on the artists who form the contemporary Croatian art scene. 21/10 - 06/12/2009 Zagreb - Munich: Croatian Fine Art and the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich 1870 - 1920 C-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70. This exhibit is a double whammy! , Heritage of Jelačić family In honour of the 200th anniversary of the Academy of fine Arts in Munich, a joint venture with local institutions brings Heritage of Jelačić family a selection of Croatian fine art from the end of the 19th to the beginning of the 20th century. The exhibit also honours From October 29th – Heritage of Jelačić family the works of Croatian students who have studied at this elite B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, tel. academy as well as the works of their art professors. The list 485 19 00. One of the most important family legacies is endless so it’s well worth a peek! in Croatian history is to be presented with over 700 27/10 - 12/12/2009 Big Portraits by Nadar C-1, different museum artefacts which testify to the role of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) Jelačić family in a wider social and historical context. The 485 19 26. Black and white photographs by Gaspard commanding figure of Duke Josip Jelačić is analysed as Felix Tournachon (1820-1910), also known as Nadar. The well as how he was criticised and later turned into a cult main theme of the exhibition is portraits of famous people figure and a symbol of Croatian independence. (around 1854), Liszt, Baudelaire, Berlioz, Sarah Bernhardt, Manet, Rossini… Staša Čimbur, Male Tea Pot, Hat in the Picture 26/11 - 24/01/2010 Jozo Kljaković (1889 - 1969) C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 02 - 16/10/2009 The Thread that Connects (+385-1) 485 19 26. It is only right to pay homage to the us B-3, Izidor Kršnjavi Gallery, School of Applied Arts, great works of the past and in this case, one of the most Trg maršala Tita 11. The very idea of image and how it is beautiful sacral opuses made in the last century was definitely created even with the technical procedures and approaches Kljaković’s cycle of frescoes - in St Mark’s Church, Zagreb’s of today, not to mention the possibilities of textile and print Upper Town, Gradec. Even as this master of grandiose had technology is deliberated here. The dissection of all aspects produced some amazing art works, he has remained almost of an image - its surface, content, and finally even the very unknown to the public over time. To give recognition where frame will be re-examined within textile media. it is most deservedly due, this retrospective will mark 120 03 - 17/10/2009 Kristijan Kožul: Ne-pomirljivi years since his birth and the 40th anniversary of his passing. (Un-Forgiven) C-1, Kranjčar Gallery , Kaptol 26, tel. The exhibition will for the first time reveal all the richness of (+385-1) 481 84 00. Few would doubt that Kristijan Kožul his talent, of an artist who has been neglected for decades. is currently the most radical Croatian artist. His works have Although he was educated in the centres of upcoming avant- prompted viewers and critics to question their stance on a garde art, and in the ateliers of some famous European whole range of categories within art. His works have a touch of painters such as Klimt, Hodler and Lenoir; this painter is to morbidity about them which is disturbing for some, refreshing become an example of traditional trends as his fishermen, The 44th Zagreb Salon for others. He uses mirrors, nails, ceramics, flowers, razors, peasants and nudes of the Mediterranean beauty will remain recycled objects and much more to create his powerfulworks. on his canvases and will take us into the past which echoes 01 - 25/10/2009 Architecture 06 - 09 I-5, The QOpen 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. through the Mediterranean as it used to be. 19th Pavilion of the Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 04/10 - 30/11/2009 Spacial drawings by 15, tel. (+385-1) 550 97 05. This ought to knock your Andrijana Mlinarević-Cvetković B-2, Marisall socks off as it’s the biggest such event in the region and Gallery, Mesnička 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78. Art has no has in recent years gained an international reputation. boundaries and the award winning artist Andrijana Mlinariević- Renowned world architectural theoretician - Hans Ibelings Cvetković is testimony to this. By using wires, wire nets, metal, from Holland is featured; he is the main editor of the plaster and other already made objects, the artist finds her prestigious magazine A10 - new European Architecture. inspiration through children’s art and builds linear and playful The work of Hrvoje Njirić and architects will be presented compositions on the wall. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 at the exhibition pavilion on the corner of Bakačeva and - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Cesarčeva Street till December and architect Helena Paver Njirić showcases her achievements on Zrinjevac 13/10 - 08/11/2009 A Group International with the exhibition “The Traces” (03 - 10/10). Both were Exhibition Hram E-3, Galerija Prsten, Trg žrtava winners of the last Zagreb Salon. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. fašizma. The hierarchy of the Croatian Society of Fine Art Admission free. have put together this international exhibit which deals with the relations between contemporary artists towards spirituality. There is an everlasting line-up of local and international guests which includes art historians. Schedules Looking for more? Just click! can be seen at www.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Goran Nemarnik, Okolika kompozicija, The Thread that Connects us zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 20 Culture & events Culture & events 21

Jazz

05 - 07/11/2009 Vip Jazzg5! B-4, Student’s centre, Savska 25. The 5th Zagreb Jazz Festival gets into full swing with three giants of the genre performing! This year program includes the 05/11 Sonny Rollins American jazz tenor and saxophonist who is widely recognized as one of the most important and influential jazz musicians of the post-bebop era. It’s hard to believe that his prolific career began at the tender Terence Blanchard Group, Genera 5, credit Shannon Brinkman, Vip Vip Jazzg5!, Branford Marsalis Jazzg5! age of 11, having played with piano legend Thelonious Monk amongst others. Concert 01 - 14/10/2009 Croatian Jazz C-2, B.P. Club, will be held at Vatroslav Lisinki Concert Hall J-4, Trg Stjepana Teslina 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 44 44. From the high and Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. Next evening 06/11 mighty to the young up and coming mavericks of Croatian Branford Marsalis American saxophonist, composer and jazz, every night will be one to remember. One performance to bandleader primarily known for his work in jazz as the leader look out for will be by Matija Dedić, an excellent piano player. of the Branford Marsalis Quartet. He also performs frequently As part of the cycle of jazz at B.P., you are invited to attend a as a soloist with classical ensembles and has led the group concert by Elvis Stanić Group, Balwan City Kids, Bruna Souza Buckshot LeFonque. The festival ends with 07/11 Terence & Blue Bossa, David Gazarov, Mirokado Quartet and others. Blanchard A multi-talented jazz trumpeter, bandleader and Tickets are available at B.P. Club. composer. He emerged on the scene in 1980 with the Lionel Hampton Orchestra and has remained prominent ever since. 04/10/2009 HGM jazz orchestra Zagreb He has recorded several award-winning albums and has featuring Joseph Bowie B-4, &TD Theatre, Savska performed alongside jazzes elite. Known as an artist in the 25. For the 7th season running HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb hard bop tradition, he has recently utilized an African-fusion opens a concert ‘Sunday nights’ with a guest performance by style of playing that makes him unique from other trumpeters American trombone player Joseph Bowie. Bowie rose to fame on the circuit. Q Concerts start at 20:00. in the 1970s and 1980s but he reached his pinnacle with the experimental jazz, punk, funk band Defunkt. In the following 08/11/2009 HGM jazz orchestra Zagreb 25 years Defunkt would record 15 albums and Joseph Bowie featuring Cubismo B-4, &TD Theatre, Savska 25. would become an irreplaceable part of the world funk scene. Croatia’s golden jazz band featuring eleven members playing Free entry, call for reservation seats (+385-1) 611 16 00. salsa and latin jazz. The name Cubismo represents one of the first mixes of jazz and afro-Cuban music. Their sound is 20 - 23/10/2009 The 19th International Days in particular typified by the multiplicity of instruments that of Jazz J-4, Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall, Trg produce an authentic dance rhythm. Prepare yourselves for Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 66. What a an evening of bop and hop as Cubismo perform remakes jazzalicious line-up we have this year! To warm things up, of standard jazz pieces, popular Cuban songs and some the opening night kicks off with the James Crater Quintet of their own originals! Free entry, call for reservation seats (USA). Crater is a leading jazz saxophone player of a younger 611 16 00. generation and is coming to Zagreb again, this time with his quintet. (James Carter on saxophone, Corey Wilkes on 10 - 16/11/2009 The 10th No Jazz Festival B-4, trumept, Gerard Gibbs on piano, Ralphe Armstrong on bass &TD Theatre, Savska 25. Take contemporary jazz and and Leonard Kins on drums). The following evening reverts fuse it with some other musical influences, what do you to home grown talent with Croatian musicians performing. get? The tenth N.O. Jazz Festival is getting closer and we’re We have Davor Kajfeš 75 and the Zagreb Jazz Quartet 50. here to give you a sneak preview of what else is in stall for The evening celebrates in particular there accomplishments, this year’s bonanza. Performances include the Lydia Lunch’s three quarters of a century for Davor Kajfeš and the 50th Big Sexy Noise (USA/England), Matt Darriau’s Paradox Trio anniversary of the Zagreb Jazz Quartet. (Ladislav Fidri on (USA/Bulgaria), Matt Darriau’s Paradox Trio (USA/Bulgaria), trumpet, Boško Petrović on vibrafon, Davor Kajfeš on piano, Kazutoki Umezu ‘kiki’ band (Japan), Gala Drop (Portugal) and Mario Mavrin on base, Silvije Glojnarić on drums). Things just many others. Q Concerts start at 20:00. Ticket price for the get better on the third night as the programme is entirely entire event is 200kn or per concert 45 - 80kn. dedicated to the Monty Alexander Trio (JAM). The legendary 13/11/2009 Diana Krall A-4, KC Dražen Petrović, Jamaican pianist who played with the likes of Frank Sinatra, Savska 30. Considered by many as the first lady of world Ray Brown and Bob Marley promises to give an unforgettable jazz and this Grammy nominee performs in Zagreb as part concert with his trio. (Monty Alexander on piano, Hassan of the humanitarian cause ‘For the safe step’. She’s topped Shakur on double bass, Georges Fludas on drums). The grand the charts since 1993 and her concerts are said to be a finale of the festival will see a performance by Juvavum Brass real treat. Krall’s latest studio album has a touch of Brazilian featuring Australian James Morrison (AUS). The genius from bossa-nova which is based on traditional melodic samba. Q down under James Morrison who last year fascinated the Tickets 290 - 390kn from www.eventim.hr. Zagreb audience will do it again, this time with the help of his excellent band of brass players. www.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 22 Culture & events Culture & events 23

Galleries

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnicki- paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 20kn, free on Mondays. HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 18, [email protected], www.hdlu. hr. Gallery of Croatian contemporary culture. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Cinemas Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori) Movie buffs who devour block-busters or the latest 3D will C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ find Cinestar and Movieplex the cinemas to attend. Those galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the who prefer the alternative and independent productions most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find ought to visit cinemas Europa, Tuškanac and the art it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very cinema KIC. And believe it or not we are pleased to have impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world our own documentary cinema called Dokukino! All films are over making a short stop here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed shown in their original languages with Croatian subtitles. Mon. Admission 10 - 40kn. Ticket range between 10 to 30kuna and you can book in advance at most cinemas. For all schedules check their Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije web sites. Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of 468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. For reservations call Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these 060 32 32 33. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers Mall. in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Dokukino Croatia C-3, Katančićeva 3, www.dokukino. Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people net. Cinema specialized for documentaries only, showing and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to the best regional and world doc’s. Tickets can be booked learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio via phone (+385-1) 481 37 11, 10:00 - 22:00 or at www. guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! QOpen dokukino.net. Q Tickets 20kn. 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10 - 30kn. 14, www.kic.hr. Q Tickets 15kn. The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg 45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, [email protected], www. N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 11, sgallery@ kinoeuropa.hr. Q Tickets 20-25kn. hazu.hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. mastering these things he was donating works and much of (+385-1) 486 07 77/(+385-1) 486 07 76, info@ it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment movieplex.hr, www.movieplex.hr. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Q Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, Open 10:00 - 13:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Q Tickets 10kn. Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Sport Events

October 15 - 16/11/2009 Croatia Open Dubrava Sports 04/10/2009 The 18th Zagreb Marathon , www.z- Hall, Đure Prejca 2. Open international Taekwondo Croatian as.hr. International athletic marathon that takes place on Championships Zagreb’s city streets. Starts at ban Jelačić Square. 20 - 22/11/2009 The 17th A.T.Stipančić 07 - 11/10/2009 Junior Grand Prix of Figure Memorial Tournament H-3, Dom Spor tova, Skating Dom Sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. International table tennis tournament. 24/10/2009 The 7th Zagreb Karate Fest H-3, Dom Sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www. karate-zg.hr. 21 - 22/11/2009 Mladost Meeting H-4/5, Mladost Sports Park, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 363 72 11. November International swimming competition. 26 - 28/11/2009 Golden Bear H-3, Dom Sportova, 12 - 15/11/2009 Golden Pirouette H-3, Dom Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www.croskate.hr. International Sportova,Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www.croskate.hr. figure ice-skating competition. Figure Ice-skating tournament.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 24 AutuMn in ZAgreB AutuMn in ZAgreB 25

How to do it Eco-ethno Croatia Pumpkin Festivities Head to the Zagreb County Tourist Board office at Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65. Open 08:00 - October 14 – 18 Croatia has a long and proud history in October 13 - November 2, 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. There, you can pick up a brochure farming and agriculture and in order to remain competitive Ivanić Grad An international with a map and contact details of wine producers. this exhibition brings rejuvenation to the field. It’s the fair that exhibits, sells and biggest such event of the year with all Croatian counties promotes eco products with The Martinje Festival and some European states partaking. It primarily focuses an emphasis on pumpkin The best time to enjoy Portugizac is autumn. The wine is best on products and services; in addition there are scientific goods plus your fair share drunk chilled, with food of the season such as roast chestnuts, events, workshops from the business sector (produce, of food tasting. Located at pumpkin, and roast duck or goose. And an excellent time to merchandising and tourism) as well as the promotion the Ivanić Grad city market, sample the wines of this region is on the Martinje festival, of activities connected to Croatian and European rural other attractions feature which falls on 11 November, the feast of St Martin of Tours, areas. Zagreb Arena, Lanište bb, tel. (+385-1)642 educational lectures on the patron saint of vintners and wine-growers. It’s the day 04 61 ecological production, when the wine must (unfermented grape juice) is blessed w o r k s h o p s fo r b o t h before it’s made into wine. children and adults, an The festival is celebrated differently in every wine-growing Buried treasure: wines of Zagreb County entertainment program, a town in north-west Croatia, sometimes featuring a christening Wine is one of hidden jewels of inland Croatia. Not so many visit to eco properties which pantomime with a “bishop” who asks a “godfather” to people know that Zagreb County is a prolific wine producer. includes cycling through to make portentous promises on behalf of the young wine, But that’s about to change, because wines from here have farmsteads in the town surroundings. Ivanić Grad Tourist e.g. pledging to induce merriment and good cheer. Food been winning more than the lion’s share of awards at local Board, tel. (+385-1) 283 13 61. is served aplenty, wine is quaffed and songs are sung in and international exhibitions. honour of fermented fluids. Celebrations are usually held in The hills around Zagreb are home to two types of wine you the evening on 10 or 11 November – call tourist information won’t find anywhere else: Portugizac, a light red usually Wine routes of Zagreb County near the time to check. drunk young (a little like Beaujolais Nouveau); and a delicate, Although there is a long tradition of making wine in the refreshing white: Kraljevina. The home of Portugizac is the Zagreb region, conditions until recently didn’t allow the Plešivica mountain near Samobor, while the Kraljevina comes industry to develop as much as it could. But the good news The 3rd Festival of Olive Oil for winemakers and aficionados alike is that there are moves from the hills northwest of Zagreb, near the town of Sveti Ivan November 16 – 20 Zelina. There is an abundance of more familiar wine varieties to promote and support the industry. The most interesting of these is the opening of Wine Routes. Dibble and dabble with too: Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Rizling (Riesling), Rizvanac and free olive oil tasting from Zeleni Silvanac (respectively known as Müller Thurgau and What are these? Well, for now, there are two Wine Routes: one 17:00 - 20:00. Guests Grüner Silvaner in German-speaking wine producing areas). on Plešivica and one around Sveti Ivan Zelina. As you drive, in clu d e th e bi g gest taking in the view, signposts direct you to local winemakers, expert in world olive who will guide you through their cellars, sometimes offering oil production Marco Zelina Chestnut Festivities local specialities to complement your wine-tasting experience. Oreggia and in addition, As yet, the wine cellars are not equipped to give you a bed an exhibition of photos October 11 Enter for the night, although if you’re on Plešivica, there is a hotel and illustrations relating a world of serenity in nearby Jastrebarsko. to olives by Danilo Đurak. where the past is The finale includes a cooking dual with a jury in search reinvigorated up by You’ll be amazed how different the pace of life is just a half- for the best meals cooked in olive oil. Centre Kaptol, a mountain lodge on hour’s drive the centre of Zagreb. The steep slopes of the C-1, Nova Ves 17 Mount Kladešćica. foothills covered with vineyards are a captivating sight, and S u r r o u n d e d b y in some of the picturesque villages it’s as if time has stood chestnut woods, still for centuries. step back in time and be taught the traditional methods of chestnut picking and roasting. Homemade specialties, interesting workshops and activities such as archery are up for show. Guided tours can be organized through the Sveti Ivan Zelina Tourist Board, tel. (+385-1) 206 15 44. Wine International Festival November 27 & 28, Zagreb Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition that promotes the very best in national and international vino as locals would call it. The festival is being held for the four year Turopolje Gastronomy running and attracting greater audiences. Admission 100kn. The November 7 & 8 If you’re feeling peckish and wish to Regent Esplanade Zagreb, C-4, distance yourself from the same old consummated Mihanovićeva 1. food, then this traditional food festival which promotes the hospitality service of the town of Velika Gorica, will answer all of your taste bud delights. A variety of authentic specialties from the Turopolje region will be Hungry for more? Just click! specially prepared by numerous restaurants in the area with delicious meals to be savored. Velika Gorica Tourist zagreb.inyourpocket.com Board, tel. (+385-1) 622 16 66.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

28 Where to stAY Where to stAY 29

As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. (+385-1) 460 91 11, fax Symbol key (+385-1) 460 93 03, [email protected], www.hotel-as.hr. The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their four- stars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less O Casino H Conference facilities noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (19 singles €120, 19 T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBK hhhh R Internet L Guarded parking Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, K Restaurant 6 Animal friendly [email protected], www.bestwestern.com. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location D Sauna C Swimming pool between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV Cream of the crop channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. include breakfast. Pets join for a flat fee of 30€. Q100 (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 35 30, sheraton. rooms (36 singles €119, 2 suites €262 - 300, 28 King [email protected], www.sheraton.com/zagreb. €135 - 154, 18 Twin €135 - 154, 12 Executive €162 - 185, 4 Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: Superior Executive €202 - 231). PTHAR6ULGK standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, hhhh and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hotel- in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, Pets up to 5kg free of charge. Q306 rooms (277 doubles this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from €235, 10 suites €385, 18 Junior Suite €335, 1 Presidential the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Suite €1500). PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the hhhhh buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No The Westin Zagreb A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) pets. Q266 rooms (166 singles €134 - 151, 92 doubles 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 21 00, westinres. €164 - 178, 7 suites €205, 1 Presidental Suite €220). [email protected], www.westin.com/zagreb. Enjoy POTJHA6UFLGBK hhhh panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb receive the best of every service from this first-class hotel. become the preferred spot for business and conferences Recently refurbished majestic and elegant rooms will have H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 365 83 33, Mid-range fax (+385-1) 309 26 57, [email protected], in town. Q207 rooms (196 singles 900kn, 196 doubles you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience 900kn, 7 Family Rooms 1300kn, 2 Business Suites 1300kn, Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by 1 Superior Suite 1800kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3000kn). fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, [email protected], www. which offer renowned Mediterranean and international POTHAR6ULGK hhhh hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a cuisines. With all amenities available, there are 378 rooms the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana ranging from Q378 rooms (297 doubles €235 - 270, Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its 23 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Offices €320, 1 the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very Old-School charm well thought of. Breakfast is 8 €. Contact the hotel to enquire name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms Presidential Suite €1500, 38 Deluxe room twin €270). C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) about special offers. Q280 rooms (229 doubles €165 - 175, Palace are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. No P O T J H A R 6 U I F L G B K D C W 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, [email protected], 17 Junior Suite €210, 22 Deluxe Suite €265, 12 Family Suite pets. Q76 rooms (38 singles 520 - 650kn, 33 doubles hhhhh www.palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the €210). POTHARULBK hhhh 780 - 900kn, 5 triples 1065kn, 4 Junior Suites 1400kn). city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique POTJHA hhh Upmarket Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era tel. (+385-1) 204 11 11, fax (+385-1) 204 17 62, Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. (+385-1) 631 19 00, fax upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. (+385-1) 631 19 09, [email protected], www.zug.hr. Opened Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 [email protected], www.hotelantunovic. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, [email protected], www. com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple minutes walk away. staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortable and luxurious Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (29 singles €130, only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, and there are different types available, from smaller rooms simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg 88 doubles €170, 3 suites €315, 3 Junior suites €230). bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center discounts at weekends. Q26 rooms (8 singles 457kn, 2 C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. to restaurant is included on-site. To top it all off, the bar The Regent Esplanade Zagreb doubles 700kn, 13 triples 930kn, 3 apartments 1000kn). tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info. THABK hhh Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view [email protected], www.theregentzagreb. 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask Galerija G-6, Pogačićeva 9, tel./fax (+385-1) 654 75 com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and €335). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms 70, [email protected], www.hotel-galerija.hr. the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of hhhh (149 singles €123 - 167, 149 doubles €143 - 187, 4 suites Convenient for drivers, close by one of the main entrance famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, €375 - 507, 4 Junior Suite €250, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). points into Zageb, Galerija is very new, well-equipped, and nice PHAUIFLEGBKDC hhhh Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, if you like contemporary styling. If you don’t like pastel colours, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, [email protected], www. and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, you might be a bit frightened. Kind and helpful staff. Prices 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express include breakfast. Q18 rooms (16 singles 357 - 400kn, 16 the location near the airport and major routes exposes the tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/ target market. So, should the company be picking up the [email protected], www.hotel-international. doubles 480 - 510kn, 3 triples 630 - 660kn, 2 apartments day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms 610 - 810kn). PA6LBK hhh tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist- hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference (147 Superior Rooms €159 - 179, 48 Delux Rooms €184 - free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. and banquet area and rooms to meet the needs of any 204, 13 Delux Suite €314 - 334, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). Q149 rooms (4 singles €133, 138 doubles €144 - 166, 3 traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with POTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW triples €200, 1 Deluxe Suite €480, 3 Business Suite €254). an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. hhhhh www.inyourpocket.com PHA6UFLGBKDS hhhh If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 30 Where to stAY Where to stAY 31

Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./fax (+385-1) 244 51 38, tel. (+385-1) 244 52 04, vila-tina@ Reserve a room at zg.htnet.hr, www.vilatina.com.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Park. zagreb.inyourpocket.com Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°2 or 3 north up Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel./fax (+385-1) 611 Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets. Q25 10 62, [email protected], www.hotel-fala-zg.hr. rooms (8 singles 640kn, 14 doubles 720 - 800kn, 3 triples Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting 800 - 980kn). PALGK hhh your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, jadran@ is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €48, 9 doubles €68, 2 Family of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished room €100). PA hh this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. (+385-1) 377 75 22/(+385-1) bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the 377 76 22, fax (+385-1) 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica. double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your location. No pets. Q49 rooms (26 singles €70, 18 doubles luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location €98, 5 triples €121). PTJALGK hhh just west of centre is one of the best in town. Pets can Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 stay by arrangement. Q25 rooms (9 singles €63, 13 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, [email protected], www. doubles €84 - 95, 2 triples €95, 1 apartment €126). hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, PTJ6ULNGK hhh the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas (+385-1) 483 35 73, [email protected], feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €76 - 83, the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game 83 doubles €99 - 110, 15 triples €126 - 140, 6 suites €133 - dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No 147). PTJHA6UIFGBKD hhh pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles 497kn, 8 doubles 705kn, 2 Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) apartments 912kn). PJAILGBK hh 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel- Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. (+385-1) stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, 606 52 00, fax (+385-1) 606 52 02, desk@meridijan16. including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask com, www.meridijan16.com. Is nice! Is near centre! Nor is about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and events. Shuttle service to the airport, just a few minutes away, look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with is available by request. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, 41 the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs bed €20). PAULG hhh 10€/night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. No The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel. (+385-1) pets. Q25 rooms (13 singles €62, 10 doubles €82, 1 triple 600 36 00, fax (+385-1) 600 36 01, info@themoviehotel. €102, 1 apartment €82). PARILG hhh com, www.themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie Omladinski hotel Remetinec H-5, Remetinečki gaj theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie 28, tel. (+385-1) 614 00 42/(+385-1) 654 25 39, fax Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (+385-1) 614 00 39, [email protected], www. (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj). There’s nazor.hr. Run by a Croatian youth organisation, spacious and a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of clean accommodation on the side of the river. movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about A bus gets you to the main train station in 20min. All rooms everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious have toilet and shower and accommodate up to three people. apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make Prices are per person. There’s a cafeteria with internet, a this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park restaurant, and a meeting room for up to 20 people. 10% is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. discount with ISIC card. Q 291 dorm beds, 20 - 28€ per Breakfast included. Q39 rooms (16 singles €50 - 65, 18 person. HALK doubles €70 - 84, 3 triples €110, 2 apartments €139 - 167). K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 PAGK hhh Sliško 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus Budget station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. (+385-1) 232 02 67/(+385-) 095 860 64 35, fax A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute (+385-1) 242 07 31, [email protected], into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 www.buzzbackpackers.com. It’s just a 15 minute ride with rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, tram to the train station and the city center. You want more? 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILEGBK hh How’s this for service; free air conditioning, unlimited high- Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljenovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) speed internet access, laundry room, car parking infront of 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hostel and full equipped guest kitchen and lots more. Q 33 hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to dorm beds, 120 - 400kn per person. PAGW get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly www.inyourpocket.com face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 32 Where to stAY Where to stAY 33

Mountain high fridge. Management is super attentive and offer discounts for Homestays Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme longer stays and special deals for companies. Prices range Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 bb, Medvednica, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+385-1) from €69-79p.day. See website for great details. 46, 483 95 54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 460 45 60, [email protected], www.snjezna- InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652 483 95 43, [email protected], www.evistas.hr. Let the kraljica.com. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel 32 01, [email protected], www.inzagreb.com. Why stay friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in old lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance super comfort! InZagreb has 9 well-equipped & cheerfully possibilities with an affordable price. Q10 rooms (1 single in, all are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel bright apartments with lots of space. Eight are centrally €29 - 39, 3 doubles €40 - 53, 6 apartments €50 - 75). also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finish located and one is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities PAFGKC saunas, solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms care of in the services of a modern home including (and more), Out of town (16 4-bedded apartment €80, 1 8-bedded apartment €150). kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, PTHA6UIFGBKDC hhhh air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food Gaj G-4, Jezerska 24a, tel. (+385-1) 381 72 22, fax basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up (+385-1) 381 72 25, [email protected], www. Tomislavov dom Sljeme bb, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 hotelgaj.hr. The staff is top-notch and the Scandinavian feel 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavovdom@sljeme. service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable.With room for up to 3 or 4 of the place makes for a very comfortable stay. Pets welcome hr, www.hotel-tomislavovdom.com; www.sljeme.hr. at 5€/day. Q34 rooms (2 singles €62, 26 doubles €84, 1 Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers people, at €65 - €85, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q PTAFBC triple €99, 5 suites €81 - 97). PHA6UFLGKD top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great hhh wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles Never stop, Nemoj stati D-3, Boškovićeva 7a, tel. I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, €82, 16 triples €84). PTHA6UFEGBKDC (+385-1) 487 32 25/(+385-) 091 637 81 11, nest@ fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, [email protected], www. hhh nest.hr, www.nest.hr. Staying in Zagreb for longer than a hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently few days? Never Stop (NEST) is a short-term apartment rental undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the Short term rental agency with a delightfully friendly, service-oriented staff and rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do a range of elegant, city centre apartments with all mod cons their utmost to please, and the location means you can Intacta apartments B-2, Gundulićeva 37, tel. (+385-1) (including internet access). The minimum stay is three days, 485 42 66/(+385-) 099 242 43 22, 099 242 43 31, avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby and prices drop depending on the length of stay. Cleaning and sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities fax (+385-1) 485 42 65, office@intacta-apartmani. laundry are included in the price. NEST offer package deals hr, www.intacta-apartmani.hr. For premium care when complete the picture. No pets. Q215 rooms (76 singles with Hertz for reduced apartment and car rental, and regular away from home, step foot into these first-rate apartments €78, 100 doubles €108, 35 triples €132, 4 suites €144). clients can join the NEST club to receive other special offers. PTHA6ULEGBK hhh where customer satisfaction is assured. 3 apartments in QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. total, 2 highly suited to the professional business types as they include a home office with all the necessary mod-cons  Zagreb to work long into the night. Enjoy the comfort and style of a fully equipped, contemporary apartment and a well-stocked www.inyourpocket.com telephone code is +385-1

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 34 Where to stAY restAurAnts 35

www.inyourpocket.com Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Paradise Štrokinec 26, tel. (+385-1) 346 49 59, fax E S (+385-1) 379 45 61, [email protected], www.hotel- Live music Take away paradise.hr. Located just west of the CBD, this relatively new T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled hotel has all the ticks in the right sections. Comfortable rooms G L suitable for both the individual and families, fair prices and Non-smoking areas Guarded parking a delightful restaurant with a buffet breakfast that is sure to O Casino 6 Animal friendly please. Q12 rooms (1 single €52, 9 doubles €69, 2 suites R N €121 - 131). PA6LBK hhh Internet No Credit cards Phoenix outskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel./fax (+385-1) 200 63 33, [email protected]. hr, www.hotelphoenix.com.hr. Your thrill level rises as you Service in Zagreb is typically European, meaning very walk through this place and are amazed by all that it has to relaxed and non-intrusive. If you are in a hurry, you are offer. From the classy dining room to the exquisite solarium/ best to discretely attract the attention of your server and sauna/gym, you will quickly see this place has taken it to the state, “Račun, molim” when you are prepared to leave. next level. Styling is of the new antique variety and beautiful In those seemingly hopeless cases (they will present oil paintings are featured prominently. A great place if you themselves) simply walk to the front desk and pay your bill. have a car and are looking for a quiet and superb getaway. Pets by prior arrangement. Q49 rooms (3 singles 540kn, 35 doubles 712kn, 8 triples 900kn, 3 apartments 825 - 975kn). Asian PTHAFBKD hhh Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre), tel. (+385-1) 461 56 79, [email protected], www.opium. Porin K-6, Sarajevska 41, tel. (+385-1) 668 93 00, fax hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East (+385-1) 660 78 91, [email protected], www.zug.hr. Tasteful Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of décor and proximity to the airport and business districts in the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s south Zagreb make up for the lack of glamour - Jakuševac ain’t boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful Las Vegas (but it is quiet). Meeting and banqueting facilities ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an make it a good choice for business bods on a budget. Price Q Q advanced sign of civilisation). Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, includes breakfast (except apartment). No pets. 195 Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PA rooms (192 singles 250kn, 192 doubles 400kn, 3 apartments 800 - 1200kn). HAFLGBKDC hhh Bosnian Piterija Tomislav H-3, Selska cesta 161, tel. (+385-1) Hostels 364 05 00, www.piterija.hr. Pita is a staple of Croatian and Bosnian home cooking, made from filo pastry filled with Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, meat, vegetables, cheese or fruit. Piterija Tomislav also tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, does soups, polenta and pizzas, roast meats and salads. [email protected], www.ravnice- Comfort food heaven! Free delivery on orders over 30kn. youth-hostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to The Vukovarska location is open 07:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened closed. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 24:00, Sun in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is 07:00 - 23:00. PNB woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. (+385-1) takes the experience to the next level. An internet café is 613 10 26. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and there’s still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian ride). Q R 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic (+385-1) 484 12 61, fax (+385-1) 484 12 69, Turkish coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. [email protected], www.hfhs.hr. Recently renovated (15 - 220kn). PAL hostel located smack, bang in the heart of town, short stroll from the Bus and Train Stations. It has a couple of en-suite double bedrooms while other rooms have Breakfast separate male & female communal showers per floor. Daily Fresh Gourmet Food & Coffee C-2, Frane The green room on the ground floor looks like a living Petrića 1(corner of Ilica), tel. (+385-1) 639 71 11, room with TV, free internet in the lobby, unfortunately no www.dailyfreshgroup.com. This isn’t the place to pass restaurant. The hostel is super clean. Plus billboard for the morning with a slow espresso. Instead, you can choose ad’s and unused bus tickets, a shelf with city guides and from a wide selection of prepared desserts, sandwiches, books to read, friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm lunch items, breakfast pastries and drinks. And you can beds, 120 - 375kn per person. TJARUGX even get a kava to go. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (8 - 50kn). PTJUGS

 Zagreb Hungry for more? Just click! telephone code is +385-1 zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 36 restAurAnts restAurAnts 37

Pauza C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 Master the meat Price range 98, [email protected], www.restaurant- pauza.com. The appropriately named Pauza will give the As essential as water or blood, ćevapčići is a minced Zagreb is pleasantly moderate in its food pricing. meat that is to be both honoured and worshipped - your 30-something business crowd a pause from their working wedding vows pale in comparison in other words. You can Price You should expect day in a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There eat it as a sandwich or by itself, the usual accompaniment Cheap 8 - 35kn Pizza, sandwich, fast food, soup, are daily specials and tasty desserts (we recommend the some bread and raw onion. Beware the breath that etc. In a thin or traditional cheesecake), all the right size for lunch. And if the return trip results from an experience with this luscious critter: it has to the office isn’t particularly pressing, there’s a fairly solid been known to clear movie theatres. Let the festivities atmosphere. Q Middle 35 - 80kn Salad, mixed grill, noodles and a main wine list to choose from, as well. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat commence. 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 90kn). PAG in a charming enough setting. NK Sava H-4, Gredice 157, tel. (+385-1) 363 37 77. High 120 - 650kn Superior service, classic styling, Pod mirnim krovom J-2, Andrije Fijana 7, tel. (+385-1) The meat here is traditionally prepared, which means it has exquisite preparation, wine, etc. 232 31 55/(+385-1) 231 62 69, www.pod-mirnim- been specially spun for you on a spit to the point of perfection. krovom.com. Under peaceful roofs you will find what many The ćevapčići, sausage-shaped spiced meat popular in people consider the most fantastic grilled or boiled lamb in the region and most traditional of all Croatian meat items, is Chinese the region, not to mention the lengthy wine list which will keep excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 60kn). AGB you occupied for hours. A favourite among Zagreb natives Asia D-3, Šenoina 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, asia86@ looking for a midmorning snack. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. zg.t-com.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese (45 - 120kn). PAGB Desserts in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, Choco Bar C-2, Ilica 15, tel. (+385-1) 487 63 62, overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none [email protected], www.kraschocobar.com. It seems of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, that lately many little chocolate specialty stores have popped this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. up around town, but this delicious chocolateria is the best Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British by far! Why? Centrally located, it offers a range of delectable professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen goodies to savour all in the surrounds of a modern styled art 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). PAG and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook nouveau cafe. A beauty cafe to enjoy your coffee in that is if beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron you can keep your eyes off the tantalizing chocolate fountain. Croatian bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PA Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the Orient J-2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. There are people we know who practically orgasm when com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAB they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is cuisine as we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in Stari fijaker 900 B-2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other the traditional ispod peke style. The prosciutto, homemade 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, [email protected], www. places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh deserts starifijaker.hr. A beer hall and a restaurant, this double same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. QOpen and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PG at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads toward 22:00. (25 - 100kn). PALG Upper Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key Fast food Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s Machine-like in your efficiency, you haven’t the time nor of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array the inclination to mess around with a sit-down meal, let cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, both alone the exorbitant price that comes with it. Let’s cut to healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened domestic and international, is available in what is apparently the chase here (and stop wasting precious seconds): the a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, following are both quick and inexpensive options. Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. Also at Barčev trg Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). PA Horseburger H-4, Savska 179. Do you love your burgers 16 ( J-5, Utrina ), tel. 669 88 88. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun Tip-Top B-2, Gundulićeva 18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49. A 13:00 - 21:30. (50 - 180kn). PTAEGB but are willing to try something new? Now this place is not in clear example of content over style, Blato offers a very tasty the very city centre, it’s located on the way to the Lake Kerempuh C-2, Kaptol 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 90 00, spread for a minimum of kuna.This place is a local favourite,a or Arena, near the old pedestrian Sava Bridge. Drive in, or [email protected], www.kerempuh.hr. A favourite spot for spirited conversation or an evening paper. QOpen should we say gallop on in to this location where you can have food hangout of Zagreb’s young professionals and those in the 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). PAG a different burger or ćevapi with classical and fresh additions. know, this place serves traditional Croatian fare. A fantastic Vallis aurea B-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 13 05. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 04:00. view of Dolac in all its pre-3pm hustling and bustling glory. You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble enclosure, La Salata C-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 795 18 QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 16:00. (15 - 120kn). named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavonia. Not PAGB 86, www.lasalata.com. The name says it all! There is a surprisingly then, many people come for the great wines fast food salad bar in the alley at the beginning of Jurišićeva Klub Gastronomada C-2, Jurišićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily changing Street. If you fancy the greener foods in life then you can try 482 02 00, [email protected], www. menu keeps you on your toes. A wide variety of beef, fish the various tasty salads made from fresh vegetables and gastronomadi.hr. The name says it all and don’t be surprised and vegetarian dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. fruit. Sandwiches, different pies and quiche Lorraine is also if the next time you return you see a startling change in the (30 - 65kn). PAGB served. It’s a quick healthy lunch, and good for price. QOpen menu. You see, the finest ingredients which are in season 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 55kn). are used to arrange the menu. So expect nothing but fresh! The interior is cozy; it’s an unpretentious place with a wide Istrian McDonald’s D-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 range of wines from different regions of Croatia. Melt away 100% Istra (Kod Pavela) Gračanska cesta 46, tel. 08, [email protected], www.mcdonalds.hr. The with the desserts which are made according to old Croatian (+385-1) 467 50 36, [email protected]. Walk to tram was crowded and a generous scent of unfiltered human recipes as well as an excellent marmalade made out of baked the foot of the Sljeme hills and there you will find a Mecca of body odour pervaded into every crevice. Just then some jerk black olives and cooked by Loreena Meda. QOpen 12:00 Istrian specialities conveniently close to Zagreb. A selection with a golden-arched to-go bag entered the car. The smell of - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 180kn). of the region’s finest wines, the fritula dessert and funny- pure fry immediately overwhelmed the stench and quickly PABW shaped pasta - each custom designed for its accompanying had everyone in the car salivating to the floor-boards. That, sauce -and those much coveted truffles, will all have you dear friends, is the freakish and almost terrifying power of the dreaming of lazy Istrian days by the sea. QOpen 12:00 - McDonald’s french fry. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - www.inyourpocket.com 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (60 - 140kn). PALGB 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (15 - 30kn). PAGBW

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 38 restAurAnts restAurAnts 39

Pinguin Sandwich Bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. Canzona E-3, Ivana Šveara 9, tel. (+385-1) 461 77 77, (+385-1) 481 14 46. Recently expanded by a few cubic www.canzona.hr. Boasting one of the most fun interiors millimetres, Pinguin has glammed up its menu to include in town, the menu is almost startling in its breadth. A great hard-to-find deli items and designer bread. Still the best and option if you`re staying at the Sheraton. QOpen 12:00 - healthiest fast food option in the heart of Zagreb. The outdoor 23:00. (30 - 80kn). PAG stools are a nice perch from which to watch street people Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. (+385-1) 617 75 45, fellini@ and theatre goers pass by. Q Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon fellini.hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. (15 - 30kn). bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location makes Indian it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun Maharadža C-1, Opatovina 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 43 05, 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn). PAB www.krishna.hr/maharadja_home.html. Maharadža is a Piccolo Mondo C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), place that brings us tears of joy every time we re-discover it, tel. (+385-1) 481 86 13, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik. for it’s so dam good it feels like the first time every time! With hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Lodged in the front of the Hotel an impressive array of Indian options including a number of Dubrovnik, this high-quality house of Italian cuisine offers one superb curries, the cooks know how to satisfy your tummy of the best views of Trg Jelačića it is possible to grab whilst bored with same old crap. It’s well spiced and will have you stuffing your face. Innumerable pasta dishes are rivalled by Vegetarian sweating in no time. The interior gets you into relax mode a small selection of meat and fish and an even smaller wine www.inyourpocket.com 100% Liquid Health C-1, Tkalčićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) immediately. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - list. Then again, quality is often the victor when quantity is 091 577 65 07/(+385-1) 482 88 86, senka. 80kn). PAG put to the sword - and here you are paying for quality despite [email protected]. The taste of fresh fruit and vegetable that relaxed and informal setting. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. ( Mt. Medvednica juices is right here. Look no further as it prides itself on a International 40 - 135kn). PA Šestinski lagvić Šestinska cesta bb, tel. (+385-1) 467 light menu: tasty vegetable spring rolls, freshly made soups 44 17/(+385-1) 467 45 28, [email protected]. and sushi. The wide selection of healthy food makes this bar This group of trouble makers knows what you like - options hr, www.sestinski-lagvic.hr. This folksy restaurant provides Q and lots of ‘em. Expect to see dishes from all over the Japanese a must see, must try. Open 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - world here. you with one of the best Zagreb overhead panoramas to be 18:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 45kn). PNG Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), seen. It makes for a superb spot to sit down at before tooling B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. (+385-1) 481 00 59, www. Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. (+385-1) 467 71 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. Nova through the trails that exist just short of the restaurant. biovega.hr. Just refurbished, Nova now offers an exquisitely [email protected], www.marcellino.hr. A Mediterranean hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (55 - 115kn). PALEGB relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra- offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! Out of town - definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick Grgosova spilja Otruševec 17/4, Bregana, tel. Sun. (70 - 120kn). PAG Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, (+385-1) 337 58 88. How about a walk in the hills around Closed Sun. (40 - 160kn). PAL sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free Samobor, a visit to the Grgos caves (on the road to Otruševac), Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you and a superbly priced meal in this famous restaurant? Classic [email protected], www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the choose. CC only Visa. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - meat dishes come in portions that have table legs and diners Home delivery word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does 17:00. (80 - 180kn). P groaning. You’ll leave with a doggy bag, and your mother will the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you! Well, you be proud of your new “healthy” look. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ALB Hallo Kinez A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous Lunch on the cheap 364 60 81/(+385-) 099 364 60 81, www.hallokinez. chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his com. Now your favorite Chinese specialties can be exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed Mimice D-2, Jurišićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 45 24. As the oldest fast fish joint in Zagreb, Mimice is practically Pizza delivered straight to your table or wherever you eat? with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. (+385-1) 366 70 QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely an institution in this city. Drop in for a quick plate of fried sardines and anchovies, a la , which is usually 44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual Pizzeria 2 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 be said about the meals. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. Sun. (85 - 140kn). A eaten standing up at the ‘bar’ that hugs the restaurant’s 11. The ‘mixte’ pie at this place may inspire you to do walls. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take something with your existence that, to this point, has Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 ( Hotel The Regent Sun. (14 - 33kn). PN bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 11:30 been completely self-absorbed and not too terribly Esplanade), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels. - 24:00. (42 - 60kn). PNGB Zalogajnica “Kod Duje” J-3, Martićeva 62, tel. fruitful (let’s face it). QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (15 - 100kn). com. Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine PAGS grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), (+385-1 ) 461 06 43, [email protected]. If you’re specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and Seafood Rubelj grill B-2, Frankopanska 2d, tel. (+385-1) with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Gašpar I-2, Nova Ves 4, tel. (+385-1) 466 69 99, 484 92 57, www.rubelj-grill.hr. If you were looking to produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. Kvaternikov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little [email protected], www.restoran-baltazar. sample the Croatian offering of grilled meats, this is where QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma com. From the same stable as Baltazar, and with the same you start. Superb and inexpensive; sausage is integral. PAB (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, high standards and an interior styled like a luxury liner in Delivery service available. Also at C-2, Dolac 2, tel. 291 14 cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection polished wood. Gašpar specialises in seafood, and the 11. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (20 - 60kn). PAG Italian of meaty and bean stews. Call for delivery. QOpen 06:00 - knowledgeable staff will direct you to the best of the day’s Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79 (in the courtyard), tel. 23:00. (18 - 55kn). AB catch, cooked with inspiration. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed (+385-1) 464 94 00/(+385-) 091 349 07 07, Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, Sun. (60 - 400kn). PAGB [email protected], www.vegehop.hr. Whether you’re [email protected], www.restaurant-agava.hr. Mexican abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers Steak Houses reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. (+385-1) 619 average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number salads and a great wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 21 56, [email protected], www.mex-cantina.hr. The Mu steak & chop house I-4, Avenija grada Vukovara of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is 130kn). AGB most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the 72, tel. (+385-1) 631 00 90. Imagine a huge, open room likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and filled with relaxing music, a woodsy décor, and an attentive to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. wait staff done up in slick, black and white duds bustling delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). Fun for the whole family about. Add on a solid steakhouse menu offering steaks of all QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PAEGB kinds and the sides you like to go with them and you’ve got (15 - 55kn). AGS zagreb.inyourpocket.com Steakhouse MU! QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (30 - 180kn). PALGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 40 CAFéS CAFéS 41

Coffee. The fifth food group. That brown line that traces Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, the dietary border of the food pyramid. Where would be tel. (+385-1) 481 45 55, [email protected], www. without it? Well, probably without this month’s Zagreb flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve In Your Pocket for a start. We would also be without the already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. enlightenment, the pyramids, and the occasional heart The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t palpitation. If you can’t live without coffee, you’ve come to help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents the right place. Zagreb’s love affair with the coffee bean is of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a outdone only by the entertainment derived from the art beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, of drinking it. Visitors to the national’s capital are forever Sun 09:00 - 15:00. stunned by the sheer number of cafes spilling onto the K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring pavement, resplendent in their multitude of shapes and artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices sizes (sometimes no bigger than a walk-in-closet), and their flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving proximity to one another. If you’ve experienced the joy of you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main the Zagreb coffee break, just short of dogma in this city, square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PB then you’re familiar with its gregarious customs – people ricocheting from café to café, all hours of the day and in all Kolding C-2/3, Berislavićeva 8, tel. (+385-1) 487 24 corners of the city. To drink coffee here is to be a disciple 88/(+385-1) 485 20 48, [email protected], www. of civilization, sipping cheek by jowl with the rest of polite kolding.hr. One of the best cups of coffee in Zagreb. The society. muraled walls will trick you into believing you are in Tokyo if you’re not careful. This recently renovated outdoors-indoors Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 glass box of a café is the perfect place to hole up on a winter’s 24, [email protected], www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the day, waiting for the café terraces to reopen in spring. QOpen meeting place of a literary association started up by three 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PB young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far- What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has reaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which has been This comfy,little café has a fantastic selection of artisan decorated exquisitely without being to over the top. Don’t rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can Closed Sun. also enjoy a glass of wine (Shiraz, Plavac Bibendum, Porto, Cup ‘98 C-2, Petrinjska 4. Paying homage to the Croatian Sauvignon Blanc Babich, and Chardonnay Mondavi) come achievement of 3rd place finish in the World Cup of the same Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and year, Cup ‘98 is only a penalty kick’s distance away from the olives whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock wither in the goal named Trg bana Jelačića. Give your morning a dirty slide background. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. tackle, and then dribble your way into the heart of Zagreb (just MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. dont get any on your tie). QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 75. This in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music Its location just off Flower square is superb, and the lower of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any and upper level seating makes it a popular lunch hangout. better. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, 17:00 - 23:00. GB Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJB Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 527 99 90, nik@ Pušlek - Cvjetni trg C-2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates 481 08 76. Opposite Bulldog, there is a different kind of from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials café which offers an entirely different experience. A socialist such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great interior attracts plenty of visitors, especially intellectuals and for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen students. In case you’re lucky to get a window seat, you can 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PG enjoy the slapdash of Zagreb street life. And please, make Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 72, sure you have some change in case you need to visit the toilet [email protected]. Modern and minimalist Flores is, to make baka happy! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the Vimpi C-2, Miškecov prolaz 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 92 30. queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a Not wimpy at all. You’ll be thrilled with the music selection of nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus classic rock and roll and blues and then the dark wooden wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 interior that most nearly suggests western saloon (a stretch, - 23:00. P we admit). This is a great place to hangout after work and take Gavella B-2, Frankopanska 8, tel. (+385-1) 484 85 in a pleasant conversation with friends. Just behind Cinema 53. Inside of the Gavella Theatre, artistic sensibility was Europa so it’s great just before or after a movie. QOpen passed down to this cafe. We think you’ll find it an extremely 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PB satisfying expanse. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - Zrin C-2/3, Berislavićeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 38. Zrin 01:00. PG is a classy and quiet underground locale to share a drink and Harmica C-2, Radićeva 3. Spot on in town and open every conversation in. The art is antique in nature, and the colour night of the week till after midnight. Serves tasty sandwiches scheme is a soft brown and cream combination, making for with great Segafredo coffee and is a casual bar by night. DJ’s a very relaxed feeling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B play commercial music Fridays and Saturdays! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 42 nightliFe nightliFe 43

Alternative Runa C-1, Opatička 5, tel. (+385-) 095 871 34 33/ AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva, info@pierottijeva11. (+385-) 095 838 61 32, www.runa.hr. Don’t let the chains org, http://pierottijeva11.org/. Located in a former suspended from the ceiling make you nervous. Runa’s a place pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, where even a square can feel welcome, especially with the Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted help of its fine selection of domestic and international beers. official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to If the conversation lags, just lean back, close your eyes and Zagreb’s alternative community. There’s not much to it: two tap your toes along with the grind core, death metal, black chambers of bare concrete walls, a scattering of chairs and metal, thrash metal, heavy metal, nu metal, ambient, goth, sofas, and a makeshift bar. A regular menu of punk, ska and dark-electro, and industrial goth music blasting from the juke jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy box, or play a little fussball on the table in the corner. QOpen cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. PJ need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. QOpen Soba H-3, Magazinska 7, tel. (+385-) 095 910 89 10, 20:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. [email protected], www.udruga-soba.hr. In a city full of Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 eccentric music bars, Soba (‘The Room”) fits in rather nicely. 97, [email protected]. This is the last bastion of It’s in a eccentric location for a start, occupying a gloomy- unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people looking split-level apartment grafted onto the roof of a garage. dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock Inside, the odd mixture of timber beams, bamboo matting and and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even mix-and-match furniture is a prime example of what happens some electro-pop. QOpen Fri, Sat 21:00 - 02:00. P when the interior designer looses interest somewhere between the second and third bottle of Pelinkovac. Attracting Krivi put B-4, Runjaninova 3. A staple for college students, the same kind of mildly frightening but fundamentally amiable this bar wedged behind the Zagreb Botanical Gardens is a people who regularly pack out Krivi Put (see above), Soba smoke filled, cheap swill serving, gem of a watering hole. With is particularly busy on Fridays and Saturdays when local indoor bench seating and a terrace to boot, this is a haven of bands play live. It’s also one of the few bars in Zagreb which the alternative scene. Good tunes on the sound system too! is right next door to a railway line, so if you’re not particularly QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. interested in the booze or the music you can at least use the Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@ large window at the back to do a bit of trainspotting. QOpen kset.org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. cool, KSET is gaining a reputation for some especially cool Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. (+385-1) live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry.The 615 15 28, [email protected]. Don’t be put off by the mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. E hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 68, [email protected], www.mochvara.hr. This former 24:00. PEB factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s Casino premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an Bars Casino City B/C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (The Regent black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 400 20 Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 450 10 00, with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary [email protected]. Centrally located in the restaurant that works from 10:00-02:00. Private functions events and art happenings included. Closed after a dispute 70/(+385-1) 400 20 72, [email protected], www. bulldog-zagreb.com. A very busy place with an excellent beautifully refurbished Hotel The Regent Esplanade, a can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting with the city authorities in May 2008, its recent re-opening comfortable club casino with five roulette tables, five card future array of events planned, including Miss Princess marks a major boost for the city’s alternative scene. Artist location in the centre of the city, it offers a great choice of coffee and beer at expensive prices. Expect theme nights tables, slot machines and a VIP area for those more discreet Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is gambling moments. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PA to keep track of. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P reason enough to call in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00/02:00, Fri and concerts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B 12:00 - 02:00/04:00, Sat 12.00 - 02:00/04:00. Crazy Horse E-3, Šubićeva 55/I, tel. (+385-1) 457 23 Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 28 Golden Sun Casino F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a 88, [email protected]. Sometimes the best bars are 60/(+385-1) 482 51 97, [email protected], (Centar Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 387 05 30, www. Purgeraj D-1, Park Ribnjak 1, tel. (+385-1) 482 92 53, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this major.hr. Try your luck on the slot machines, electronic [email protected], www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to in out of the way spots that require a little searching. Crazy Horse fits into that category. Housed on a street that looks fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to roulette and all the other classic table games. The cocktail be strolling through Park Ribnjak at night, you’re sure to come keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with bar is luxurious with live entertainment being provided on across several groups of people chilling out on benches or more likely to have industrial workshops than bars, a trip through the gate and up the stairs reveals an excellent space live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines certain weeknights. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular full of gleaming wood and comfy, sofa-style seating at the night-spot for students and young people who come to pack tables. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PGB Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. (+385-1) 666 13 13/ Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52, tel. (+385-) 098 67 23 38, 26 12. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. QOpen 09:00 - (+385-) 091 566 67 78, [email protected], www.flybar.hr. www.funkclub.hr. Funk Bar features diversion on two Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PEB With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model levels: head downstairs Tuesday through Saturday for audio a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar hanging overhead, ‘stewardesses’ and epaulet-bedecked entertainment provided by DJ’s spinning a wide range of Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. (+385-1) 611 87 37. can now accommodate the massive crowds of the attractive wait staff, the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few electronic music. Or, relax upstairs with the café crowd and This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National mid 20-30’s crowd, that pack in on the weekends to get their drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower be visually entertained by the never-ending hustle and bustle University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. of Tkalčićeva. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place you can catch live blues every Sunday. The best Croatian an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. soothes your soul. And if that’s not enough, muscle your way A-2, Kačićeva 7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89. jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sedmica to the far side to see the city’s newest gallery space. QOpen This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout Sun 16:00 - 01:00. EB Sun 14:00 - 00:00. PA 11:00 - 02:00. B for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number Limb C-4, Plitvička 16. Tucked away out of the centre (near seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a the Kset club) is one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets, gathering literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun Lost the beat? an assortment of “creative” types who jump up and down to 17:00 - 24:00. PB rock and indie tunes whilst consuming combustible quantities zagreb.inyourpocket.com of cheap booze. Scuzzy and great fun - one of the best atmospheres in town. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. www.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 44 Nightlife Nightlife 45

No. 1 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 89. Small rock music blasts in competition with the throngs of youthful and very colourful, it boasts a crowd of regulars that are alternative types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - of average size and very colourful. Music pumps and grins 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. N widen as the evening wears on. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. (+385-1) 236 04 Closed Mon, Sun. 93, [email protected], www.dublinpub.hr. ‘The Piranha H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. (+385-) 091 462 Irish Pub’. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem. 92 34/(+385-) 091 462 92 98, [email protected], www. Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on piranha.hr. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun. shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice brown leather sofas comfort your weary bones, and service tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the is prompt and courteous. The menu is a little more Croatian dance floor! QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PB than one might expect - not a bad thing at all. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENG Ritz Cabaret C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. (+385-) 099 660 71 82/(+385-) 091 612 12 03, [email protected], www.ritz. Godot A-4, Savska 23, tel. (+385-1) 484 34 77. When hr. The legendary Ritz Club on Petrinjska Street 4 has been you start begging the waiter for some bangers and mash revamped into a stylish, classy and exclusive club that will (like mommy used to make) you’ll know this pub attempt has meet your highest expectations. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - succeeded. It’s near to the student centre, thus the crowd 05:00. PA tends to be on the young and hip side. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), B.P. Club C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 44 44, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Saloon B-1, Tuškanac 1a, tel. (+385-) 091 586 29 64/ www.bpclub.hr. Welcome to one of Zagreb’s greatest jazz tel. (+385-1) 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 457 24 86, (+385-1) 483 49 03, [email protected], www.saloon. clubs! This place offers jazz music every night of the week, you -the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be www.hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit hr. The famous old night club in the city centre provides right in the centar of Zagreb. BP also has lots of concerts with the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb and miss period style of this intended cool bar won’t concern great entertainment on two separate floors. Fridays you wonderful performers from all over the world. If your thing is seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. can ‘Flashback’ to the retro sounds of the 80’s and classic jazz music then this is the place to be. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, Q hits of the 90’s, whilst Saturdays present the very best in Sun 17:00 - 01:00. B a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. Open 10:00 - 02:00. abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging PALG Croatian music. Logic floor gives you electronic beats and if you still have the energy to dance at 04:00 come Sat or Sun Jazz Club B-2, Gundulićeva 11, [email protected]. For from 18 - 90kuna. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there morning and they will trance you with the latest in progressive a cool and cosy night out, take yourself down to this basement are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an Clubs House, Electro, New Rave and House sounds. QOpen Fri, level jazz bar, it’s big on sound and has a constant program impressive range of music and in case you get the munchies, Aquarius & Aquarius A2 H-5, Matija Ljubeka bb, tel. Sat 22:00 - 04:00. of live bands. Exposed brick and candlelight make for an Hop devil works alongside the eatery next door Mezzo & intimate encounter, so bring your friends or lovers. Closed Mezzo, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at (+385-1) 364 02 31, [email protected], www.aquarius. Sirup K-3, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-) 091 945 00 37, on Sundays it can, however, be rented out for private parties fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, hr. One of the elite nightclubs positioned along Lake Jarun. It [email protected], www.sirupclub.com. A club in Donje has two separate floors with each priding a different sound. and it’s also open to public photographic exhibitions. QOpen Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Svetice with a futuristic feel that offers guest performances by 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. EG Fridays are most popular as DJ’s pump the sounds of rap, many DJ’s. The music fits all so you can expect to hear funk, Movie Pub I-4, Savska 141, tel. (+385-1) 605 50 45, jazz, R&B, electronic and fusion music. Saturday’s feverish new wave, electro pop, hip hop, soul as well as hits from the Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, [email protected], www.the-movie-pub.com. Do tempo continues with house music to get you hoppin. Other 60’s and 70’s. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. [email protected], www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take you like beer? Tuborg, Pan, Carlsberg, Guinness, Kilkeney, nights are filled with live gigs and concerts. QOpen Fri, Sat in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an Bellevue, Kriek, Beck’s, Heineken, Leffe, Harp, Hoegarden, The Gallery G-5, Matije Ljubeka bb, Lake Jarun, 22:00 - 06:00. PEGB especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, Ožujsko and Stella. That’s the list of beers that this place tel. (+385-) 099 444 24 44, [email protected], www. pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to has waiting for you, plus two additions that make a night out Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. (+385-) gallery.hr. One of the nicest bars/clubs in Zagreb. Would be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. at Movie Pub particularly inviting: the ‘Karaoke King Show’ 098 31 73 69, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting you like a cocktail, or a bottle of champagne to drink while an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from Admission varies depending on the show -this place is a can’t on Thursday nights and, just in case a night of drinking and dancing to world famous djs. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. miss. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. rock bands to dance DJs, Boogaloo is a recently-renovated PAGB singing makes the trip home an impossibility, The Movie space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two Hotel, complete with 20 rooms right above the pub. QOpen Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the Lounge bars 07:00 - 02:00, Thu 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has [email protected], www.tvornica-kulture.hr. Great 18:00 - 02:00. PAE multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg maršala Tita 1, tel. tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, C-1, Tkalčićeva 60, tel. (+385-1) 481 rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings (+385-) 098 38 42 84/(+385-) 098 980 50 00, info@ Oliver Twist Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B 22 06, [email protected]. If you’re not wearing your hottest and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its gear don’t even think about setting foot on Tkalčićeva of Gjuro II J-2, Medveščak 2, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 26, out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event original residence on Tuškanac is now reserved for private an evening for you will feel like a peasant. And here resides www.gjuro2.hr. This club close to the centre has something nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX parties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the for you almost every day of the week. Start your weekend early lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian a stonkingly popular and rather large ‘pub’ - all dark wood with Tuesday night ‘Art&Heart’, nice and quiet evening for a National Theatre. Great views without, and airy period and shiny brass. DJs Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen drink and not worry about loud music. Wednesday is for ‘R’n’B Cocktail bars interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, 09:00 - 04:00. PGB Confusion’ and Thursday gives you ‘Business Class’ with 24 Hemingway B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 56/ Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PAGB and up crowd, loving the music of their generation. Friday is a (+385-) 098 980 50 00, [email protected], www. Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) ‘Mash revolution’ with funk,soul and urban beats. Close your hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, 466 71 40, [email protected], www.khala.hr. Part lively weekend on Saturday and ‘Georgeous Gjuro’ with the best darlings. In fact, your plimsoles won’t even make it past the cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, in pop, r&b, and commercial house. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. door. This is Zagreb’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told part wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes Closed Mon, Sun. P to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Q some great Croatian wines, and most are served by the glass, NEW Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. Open Fri, Sat so you partake in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are served in PAG Lemon C-2, Gajeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 482 08 00, www. 23:00 - 06:00. this part too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. lemon.hr. Located in the centre of the city across two floors. PAGB The lower level is made for those who were born to bop Jazz and blues and dance as house music fills the air on Wednesdays and Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 Pubs weekends. The upper level is more spacious with after work 32 28 04/(+385-) 098 929 92 98, www.bacchusjazzbar. Dobar zvuk C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 18, tel. (+385-) 098 parties and easy, jazz lounge music to soothe to the groove! net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted Minimalistic interior with very few details and the extensive 982 84 28/(+385-1) 481 17 31, dobarzvuk.kontakt@ grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the gmail.com, www.dobar-zvuk.com. Gets close to that real range of foreign drinks, cocktails, champagne and expensive courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or Croatian wine makes this place a tad pricey. No under 21, free pub feel without even trying. The walls are adorned with under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from retro memorabilia, the beer flows, and in the evenings, the entrance. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. the shelves under the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. GB

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 46 WhAt to see WhAt to see 47 Curiosities Essential Zagreb At the Black Eagle Pharmacy (Gradska ljekarna K crnom orlu) C-1, Kamenita bb. The oldest pharmacy Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat- of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus in Zagreb, it’s a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple N°106 from Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re 8kn. You can also take tram N°14 from Trg bana Josipa like a bar or café today. cultured. Jelačića east (Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop Zagreb Astronomical Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa (Gupčeva zvijezda). C-1, Opatička 22, tel. 485 13 55, [email protected], Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro- Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića www.zvjezdarnica.hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The is where you should head to make use of all those wishes There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding combination of the outdoors gazebo, expertly manicured you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the and people watching everywhere. It was named after the lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is building continues to be a key post for scientific observation his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers visitors - both young and old - looking for peek at stardust. number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres For organized touristic tours admission is 10kn per person. chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found free of charge in this baby. Q Open Tue, Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time svetog Marka 5, tel. 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours Zagreb Mummy C-2, Trg leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Dolac () C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Perhaps the most famous country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. relic in Croatia is kept at this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of the Archeological museum. producers from surrounding villages gather in this central reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original The mummified body from food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, 14th century building. Thebes was bought by Mihael Bariin Egypt in 1848- which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to 49: which you may think This archway was one of the four original entries into the seems perfectly reasonable, straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible A hoard of silver barbarian-Celtic coinage, 1st cent. BC Okic near strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the yet the mummy is Etruscan fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a and had no business being Samobor, Archeological Museum in Zagreb shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with across the Mediterranean. Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and The Etruscans controlled fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. 485 19 00, hismus@ by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room large parts of west Italy, hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing including modern day (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room as a testament to a people and their faith. includes over 140,000 artefacts from the cultural and national (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. homage to all things edible, Dolac. The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Archeological Museum in Zagreb B.C. and only basics of their As this is not its permanent adress, while it reopens, only Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) language, which is pre-indo- temporary exhibitions are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt ( C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many & the City Zoo) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though what her personal talents. After her owner face death it was the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. 485 17 it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those are strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to be and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has engines have been removed from this place and as such and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque permanent display but her bonds are locked away and only of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily revealed to experts. of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts. zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave Museums bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the There’s no shortage of museums in this town, and the 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A great part is the small price tag that comes along with it street.Q The zoo is open 09:00 - 19:00, ticket office 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo- (0 - 40kn). www.inyourpocket.com 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20 - 30kn. Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior J-1, Mirogoj bb. Situated on the renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki slopes of Medvednica, Mirogoj is one of the most beautiful time. It continues to this day. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, cemeteries in Europe. However, it is not only the burial place Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. tel. 487 30 00/ 480 00 00, [email protected], www.amz. but also a beautiful park and an open art gallery. Not far Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you musings often accompany explanations of the materials, leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality had to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this bought the complete estate and constructed the central vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer earth. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman number of people wandering around here late into the 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn. Bolle designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, starting to understand is very unique too! obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. 488 21 11, muo@ intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu Looking for more? Just click! 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. zagreb.inyourpocket.com Damir Hržina, Comet 17P/Holmes, Zagreb Astronomical Observatory

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 48 WhAt to see WhAt to see 49

The

The Croatian State Archives (Državni arhiv) B-4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. 480 19 99/ 482 92 44, 480 19 21, [email protected], www.arhiv.hr. On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb. This building now houses the Crotian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Art Pavilion Strossmayer’s Promenade Maksimir Park & the City Zoo The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej) Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) C-1, I-2, B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. 485 57 16, hrskolski. of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) Opatička 20, tel. 485 13 61, muzej-grada-zagreba@ Make friends? Just click! Medvedgradska 2, tel. 468 60 50, [email protected] [email protected], www.hrskolski-muzej.hr. mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. With theme music and sprawling com.hr, www.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre Trace the development of the school system in this part of zagreb.inyourpocket.com city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th D-3, Trg themes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes Mažuranića 14, tel. 482 62 20, emz@etnografski-muzej. Closed Mon. Admission 5 -10kn. it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. hr, www.etnografski-muzej.hr. High fashion collides with The (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. 482 81 00, [email protected] blind. A truly awesome place! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu Day of the Dead this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn. 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much admission on Thu. more. It spans an amazing three millennia, much of it Christian Meštrović Atelier (Muzej Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1, in theme. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun Mletačka 8, tel. 485 11 23, [email protected], www. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous The Museum of Post and Telecommunications sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the (Hrvatski muzej pošte i telekomunikacija) D-2, beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed Jurišićeva 13 (entrance on Palmotićeva), tel. 491 15 89, many of his first works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun [email protected], www.mdc.hr/ht/hr/. A small display, 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. you will be overjoyed to learn about the workspace of phone Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska operators in the middle 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, cesta 18, tel. 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@tehnicki- Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Free admission. muzej.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/tehnicki. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a Franch Pavilion planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Though it has fallen into a state of disrepair today, it Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn. was originally a one-of-a-kind in all world (reconstruction The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski plans are in the works). The reason for its unique quality? muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda The roof is an inverted cone shape (point down, like an In the fourth century A.D, the Catholic heavens found 3, tel. 485 19 11, [email protected], www.hmnu.org. ice cream cone), a bizarre and very curious phenomena themselves stuffed to the gills with saints and martyrs Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art indeed. Architectually curious from all over the world come courtesy of the Roman Emporer Diocletian’s persecution is highly colourful and often political style of painting. This to Zagreb to see this. It was built by Bernard Lafaille in the and massacre of Christians. As nice as it is that the museum is home to about 80 paintings or so and the imagery mid 1930s as part of a competition, who said that his machinery of history did not cast these courageous is undeniably fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun project is representative of the avant-garde construction folks aside, it does means that nowadays there are 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn. of the period. Legend says that Lafaille became enraged more Catholic saints than you can shake a pope mobile when people claimed it wasn’t a sound design, and to dis- at. How on earth is a good Catholic meant to get around prove their doubting he took a bicycle to the roof and rode to venerating all those that they should? The answer around up there for hours. The building was sponsored comes on November 1 or All Saints’ Day: basically an by the French government and was initially used by the all-in-one bonanza that is dedicated to the worship of French automoblie manufacturers as a showroom. As of the whole morass of them in one go; a sort of spiritual late, it was used as a theatre, and in 1995 the famous version of those multigyms you’ve seen orange-painted writer Pascal Bruckner came to check it out to premier people smiling around on the TV. The following day is All Souls’ Day. Once the saints are happy with their tribute his movie Bitter Moon and was absolutely thrilled by its it is the turn of the lesser immortals, the ones whose design. The French Pavilion is located in the back yard souls were not perfectly cleansed on departing the body of the Student Centre (Studentski Centar), next to the and therefore are having a bit of hassle setting past &TD theatre (B-4). Heaven’s doorman, St Peter. It is believed that the living can lend a little persuasion through prayers, alms and the sacrifice of the mass. www.inyourpocket.com Ivan Generalić, Woodcutters, The Croatian Museum of Naive Art

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 50 MAil & phones getting ArounD 51

Post Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. 638 05 05, korisnik@ If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat Public transport Train schedule buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. they’re right value for what you are sending and where. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. 498 47 Trams tel. 0800 20 00 60/ 060 10 00 01, javnost@ From To Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run Zagreb Zagreb are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around - 15:00. Closed Sun. from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) are totally No. Dep. Arr. City No. Dep. Arr. town. C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. 413 06:03 12:25 BELGRADE 210 05:50 12:56 Vip unreliable and unadvised, yet they run from 23:50 - 04:30. 211 17:10 23:21 BELGRADE 414 10:35 17:52 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. You can purchase 1,5 hour tram tickets at kiosks for 8kn, 315 23:55 06:21 BELGRADE 314 21:50 04:53 Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. 0800 or if you buy on board the tram it’ll cost you 10kn. Daily 241 04:56 10:59 200 06:05 11:59 30 33 04, [email protected], www.posta.hr. QOpen tickets are 25kn. Juts to let you know, if you so happen 205 09:58 16:09 BUDAPEST 204 14:05 20:00 00:00 - 24:00. Making the call to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot 201 15:45 21:59 BUDAPEST 240 16:35 23:07 Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. 611 buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your 212 07:00 09:19 499 06:15 08:34 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your 210 13:00 15:18 LJUBLJANA 211 14:35 16:57 Q You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break- 498 21:10 23:27 LJUBLJANA 315 21:15 23:34 Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. down, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. 481 10 90, www. 212 07:00 15:35 MUNICH 211 08:27 16:57 decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs 210 13:00 21:35 MUNICH 213 12:21 20:55 posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. an additional 210kn and is not a pleasant experience. 498 21:10 06:15 MUNICH 499 23:40 08:34 QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon. SMS Tram 983 07:20 12:50 OSIJEK 550 05:25 08:46 or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG 981 13:00 18:29 OSIJEK 782 16:22 20:56 to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming 551 18:20 21:40 OSIJEK 980 00:05 05:05 Postal rates code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. 500 06:50 10:05 RIJEKA 703 05:45 09:37 by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 700 12:35 16:28 RIJEKA 4001 13:40 18:29 Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,50kn 00 (the international access code), the appropriate Buses tel. 0800 20 00 60/ 060 10 00 01, www.zet. 702 16:50 20:34 RIJEKA 701 17:10 21:04 hr. Bus tickets cost the same as tram tickets and can be Abroad 8,00kn country code, a city or area code if applicable and the 521 06:50 12:20 SPLIT 520 07:38 13:10 subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: purchased in the same places. A list of departure times 525 15:22 20:55 SPLIT 524 15:10 20:41 Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,80 kn Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with 825 22:55 06:55 SPLIT 824 22:10 06:31 994 07:05 09:11 VARAŽDIN 3007 06:47 09:28 Abroad 3,50 kn country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne 3004 09:33 12:10 VARAŽDIN 3011 10:38 13:16 the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile 3014 18:03 20:39 VARAŽDIN 995 17:51 20:04 numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, Mall passage. 240 23:35 07:16 VENICE 241 21:20 04:18 City Express Mail 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number Funicular Railway B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. 483 39 158 07:25 14:05 VIENNA 159 15:56 22:34 and wait for a human voice. For an international call 12, [email protected], www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. 482 89 72/ to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. 482 89 73, [email protected], www.bike-express.hr. code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the shortest furnicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, For a full schedule check www.hznet.hr QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. remaining digits. in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for CityEx C-2, Trg N.Š.Zrinskog 1, tel. 461 88 70/ 0800 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the 303 333, [email protected], www.cityexpress. entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be Road help (HAK) tel. 987 hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Internet Cafes bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that Zum Express I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. 655 03 run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst Croatian Auto Club J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 44, tel. 73, [email protected], www.zum.com.hr. QOpen ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. 455 84 71, us! QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. 661 19 99, [email protected], www.hak.hr. Call tel. 464 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. [email protected], www.artnetclub.hr. In 08 00 if you’re broken down on the road. Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing Express Mail the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an Taxi Buses DHL J-5, Turinina 3, tel. 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen Taxis should only charge a 19kn flat fee plus 7kn/ Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. 669 50 00, rhea@ km except on holidays, Sundays and at night when M. Držića bb, tel. 060 31 33 33, [email protected], www. 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can fedex.hr, www.fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court an extra 20% is tacked on to bill. You can find lines Sat, Sun. of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When yard), tel. 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe.com. (Juice facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk Global Express outskirts, Susedsko polje bb, tel. 348 & Smoothie Internet cafe) stations and numerous other central locations. 46 60, [email protected], www.global-express.hr. up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, N°3, the Information centre (Open 24hrs), usually is staffed by QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to tel. 060 80 08 00/ 970, info@radio-taksi-zagreb. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. 625 44 44, info@ someone with at least a minor command of English. Should nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning Sat, Sun. alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr. UPS I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. 655 13 01. QOpen Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. 481 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Trains With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your 17 58, [email protected], http://internetcentar. daily connection from Zagreb to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and iskon.hr/. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel Mobile phones which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. kralja Tomislava 12, tel. 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. 481 99 full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, 93, [email protected], www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show- walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa where you can search for all local and international services of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach silent-mode designation in this central European location. by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. 483 00 89, cafe@ top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, from about 8 hours to less than five hours. advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive selling points throughout the city if the below addresses plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station aren’t convenient for you. for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. www.inyourpocket.com near exit.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 52 getting ArounD getting ArounD 53

Bus schedule Guarded parking

From Zagreb To Zagreb Aside from street parking, the only other alternative Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is 08:10 13:40 BELGRADE 07:30 13:00 guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. 16:45 22:15 BELGRADE 15:50 21:15 Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ 07:00 18:00 DUBROVNIK 07:00 17:10 hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. 22:30 08:15 DUBROVNIK 22:00 07:00 16:00 07:15 FRANKFURT 12:30 04:10 Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 07:30 11:45 OSIJEK 08:00 12:20 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), 12:40 16:50 OSIJEK 12:00 16:20 Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne 19:00 22:50 OSIJEK 17:30 22:00 06:15 11:15 PULA 10:00 14:00 Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Importanne 15:30 19:35 PULA 16:00 20:00 Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 19:00 23:30 PULA 19:00 23:30 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), 06:30 14:50 SARAJEVO 09:30 16:00 Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir 16:45 23.55 SARAJEVO 12:30 20:55 Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3). 22:00 06:00 SARAJEVO 22:00 06:00 18:00 05:45 SKOPJE 17:00 06:00 05:30 09:45 2,3,4,5,6 TRIESTE2,3,4,5,6 17:00 21:00 06:00 11:00 VIENNA 17:00 23:10 Airport 1,2,3,4,5,6 23:00 05:50 VIENNA 18:00 23:00 Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. 456 22 16:00 06:00 ZURICH 19:00 08:00 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km Days of the week (1 = Monday). Schedule subject to change. For a full schedule check http://akz.hr/ from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of Car rental money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. 062 22 22 26/ 467 61 11, relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. [email protected], www.avis.com.hr. QOpen Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi, the 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A trip from town is approx 200-250kuna or the cheaper option is Budget J-4, Pile I 1, tel. 455 49 43/ 455 49 36, zgd@ with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kuna and 08:00 - 12:00. A can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. 626 53 33/ 483 64 you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or 66, [email protected], www.subrosa.hr. Also at C-2, phone 633 19 99. Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@ Airline offices hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at , Pleso bb, tel. Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. 489 A 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. 08 00, [email protected], www.airfrance.hr. Rent A Smart A-2, Ivana Kukuljevića 32, tel. 487 61 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A 72, www.rentasmart.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. 616 A Sun. 02 15, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. 301 53 03, www. call tel. 667 65 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 09:00 - 18:00. A - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. 487 33 01, zag@ czechairlines.com, www.csa.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Lufthansa Pleso Airport, tel. 062 22 02 20, www. Street parking/SMS Parking lufthansa.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Turkish Airlines Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. 492 18 55, There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by [email protected], www.thy.com. QOpen signs on the side of the street: zone 1 (red) is 14kn/h 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A with a maximum waiting time of 1 hour, zone 2 (yellow) is 7kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours and zone 3 (green) is 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours. Petrol stations (0 - 24) Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on Ina Dubrava M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. 291 26 01, your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message Ina Heinzelova K-3, Heinzelova bb, tel. 244 14 your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown 34, Ina Jagićeva A-3, Jagićeva bb, tel. 377 44 (including the international code if you’re using a foreign 23, Ina Langov trg D-2, Langov trg 13, tel.482 mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a 85 91, Ina Špansko F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, return text message from the appropriate authorities. As tel. 389 85 99, Ina Miramarska C-4, Miramarska a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding bb, tel. 611 01 25, Europa Mil H-3, Zagorska 10, you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or tel. 364 35 46, Ina Stupnik East H-5, Jadranska to move your car. In case you don’t pay for car parking avenija bb, tel. 655 73 30 and are caught by the ticket inspectors; then expect a shellacking 250kn fine on the spot. For those of you who are running late and your hourly ticket expires, a 150kn fine is what you’ll pay in return. www.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 54 Shopping

The heart of Zagreb has a smorgasbord of famous world Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. and Croatian designer clothes. Simply doddle off to (+385-1) 481 68 35, [email protected], www. Gundulićeva and Frankopanska Streets (B-2/3) and you’ll galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and find labels such as Max Mara, Calvin Klein, Cacharel, Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Diesel and Escada. When you’re in the vicinity of the main Closed Sun. A square, head down to Petrićeva Street (C-2) for Armani Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. and Dolce & Gabanna. Those who prefer shopping centres there is Centar Kaptol (C-1) and Importanne Galleria (D-2). (+385-1) 481 69 54, [email protected], A day out in town cannot go without a sneak preview www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. or taste of some local delicacies and a visit to a gift QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A or antique store which can be found on our listings. In Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 71, www. addition, if you pop outside of the city centre, Avenue likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth Mall (I-5) is a great shopping destination with all sorts of of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of goodies and entertainment, simply catch tram number bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 6 (Sopot) or 14 (Zapruđe) .Other shopping centres are in - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Jankomir and . Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 4, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, [email protected], www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Shopping centres & Malls Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) recommended to all the fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 659 10 50, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 Bookshops 41, www.centarkaptol.hr. Buy anything from cosmetics to Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 488 15 55, a computer then relax at by taking in a show at their multiplex. www.algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora The most modern shopping centre in town. QOpen 09:00 of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, - 21:00. Closed Sun. books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-1) 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 461 95 03, [email protected], www.importanne. Ljevak C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 17, tel. (+385-1) hr. Fashion shops, music, food court and home to one of 481 29 92, [email protected], www.naklada- the most modern cinemas in town. Very modern. QOpen ljevak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Closed Sun. A King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 Planetopija A-2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, 92 28, [email protected], www.kingcross.hr. QOpen [email protected], www.planetopija.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) Antiques 487 73 25, [email protected], www.profil.hr. Three Agram C-2, Miškecov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 27 78, floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games [email protected], www.agram-antikviteti. and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles hr. Agram will arouse the antique lover in you. QOpen 09:00 include excellent travel books. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Closed Sun. A Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, Stripovi na kvadrat C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. (+385-1) 483 77 77, [email protected], www.stripovi. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A hr. Comics. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 Closed Sun. 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, [email protected] Tisak media D-2, Franje Račkoga 2A, tel. (+385-1) 457 com.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the 60 56/(+385) 0800 666 770, www.tisak.hr. QOpen street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other Užitak i tekst C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys tel. (+385-1) 466 61 87, [email protected]. and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to hr, www.meandar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, Sun. A 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 25 37, knjizara- Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. [email protected], www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with [email protected], www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, tel. 467 08 04. and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Flower shops Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Gallery Saša Šekoranja A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Art galleries Closed Sun. Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33 Papillon D-2, Račkoga 11, tel. (+385-1) 457 26 17/ 70, [email protected], www.galerija-grubic.hr. (+385-) 091 223 85 85, [email protected], www. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and papillon.hr. A floral experience is to be had at this classy other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, shop. Also at I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Kaptol Centre), tel. 466 93 33. Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 56 shopping liFestYle DireCtorY 57

Salon cvijeća N B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 64 92. Flowers,pollen and buds are twisted and arranged to impress. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Gifts & Souvenirs Aromateka C-2, Gajeva 2a, tel. (+385-1) 481 29 31, [email protected], www.aromateka.hr. Natural and organic! Croatian products made from pure substances. A great outlet for those who really seek that something extra in regards to body care and health. Why not surprise a friend with a wide range of refreshing facial and body products this festive season? QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Culture Centres Mon. A Austrian Cultural Forum B-2, Ivana Gundulića 3, tel. French Cultural Institute C-2, Bogovićeva 1, tel. Cerovečki B-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74 17, www. (+385-1) 488 12 50, [email protected], (+385-1) 485 52 22, [email protected], www. kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Hanmade umbrellas. QOpen www.kulturforum-zagreb.org. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri ifz.hr. Lots of cool artsy stuff. It’s worth a look-see and 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. easily located in the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Croata C-2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 26, oktogon@ British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, Sat, Sun. croata.hr, www.croata.hr. Ties and varied clothing of rich [email protected], www.britishcouncil.org/ Goethe Institut I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, tel. and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. croatia. Books, DVDs, free internet access, newspapers, (+385-1) 619 50 00, [email protected], www. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on videos and a reading room. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed goethe.de/kroatien. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - the invention of the tie. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - Sat, Sun. Library: Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 15:00. Closed Sun. A Closed Sun. Dancing Bear B-2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, [email protected], www. Sport dancingbear.hr. CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 Cycle Zagreb Zdrave vibracije - Power Plate Institute H-4, Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what Zadarska 80, tel. (+385-1) 383 74 41, info@ 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of all kinds of different Q candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your is slowly becoming somewhat of a common trend, more zdravevibracije.hr, www.zdravevibracije.hr. Open A sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! QOpen 07:00 - and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A choose the ecological route to town. The hustle and bustle of cars in the heart of the city as well as having to battle Natura Croatica C-3, Petra Preradovića 8, tel. Ice Skating for a car park, isn’t the way to travel. Local government Zagrebački velesajam (Zagreb fair) I-5, Avenija (+385-1) 485 50 76, [email protected], www. have been proactive in asphalting many of the roads and in naturacroatica.com. A lovely little shop selling a specialist doing so, cyclists have been given some extra TLC (tender Dubrovnik, Pavilion 40, tel. (+385-1) 655 43 57, www. selection of rakije and other Croatian delicacies. Also at loving care). Nowadays, roads are marked for cyclists with zv.hr. Q Open Fri, Sat 20:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, either red paint or are separated from the main road by 20:00 - 21:30. Admission 15kn. Skates 15kn. Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A yellow and white lines. The markings are very visible and Slavonica C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. (+385-1) 483 23 29, clear to both bike riders and car drivers alike. Some of the Squash [email protected], www.ecoslavonia.com. It’s local traffic lights have even been reserved for cyclists. For Concordia H-3, Klanječka 37, tel. (+385-1) 366 65 a meat and salami lover’s paradise! A specialized shop those seeking a recreational ride then Maksimir, Bundek 43/(+385-1) 363 77 31. QOpen 08:45 - 22:15, Sat, loaded with Slavonian delicacies such as kulen, kulenova and Jarun are the ideal locations. Keen punters can rent-a- Sun 08:45 - 20:00. 50kn/45min from 08:45 - 15:30 and bike or roller blades at Jarun, just look for the small booth seka, homemade Slavonian sausages and čvarci. QOpen weekends, 65kn/45min 15:30 - 22:15. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A located at the Petrine entrance (small lake). Prices are 20kn per hour and it’s open from 10:30 till 20:00 on weekends Squash tower K-3/4, Zavrtnica 17, tel. (+385-1) and public holidays, weekdays from 15:00 until 20:00. 619 66 66, [email protected], www. Sunday markets True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should squashtower.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 30kn/30min know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative from 07:00 - 16:00, 65kn/30min 16:00 - 23:00 and Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree as weekends. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique well as different types of surface. For all other information market is bursting with flare and excitement. Here you will and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www. Swimming pools pedala.hr, www.bicikl.hr. find various decorative things, old books and collectables Mladost H-4, Jarunska ulica 5, tel. (+385-1) 365 of both local and international origin. Located in the very 85 41. One olympic-sized 50m pool and another, smaller heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all Fitness centres swimming pool reside inside the Mladost Sports Park.Q fans of antiquity. Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50, Open for public 07:00 - 08:00, 11:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna [email protected], www.fitness-forma.com. Wed 11:00 - 15:00, Sat 13:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Tickets 10 - 30kn, 200 - 300kn/month, 2400kn/year. of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Utrina J-5, Balotin prilaz bb, tel. (+385-1) 665 96 Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. 66, [email protected]. QOpen it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 06:00 - 08:00, 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 19:00, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name - 20:00. Fri 09:00 - 20:00, 22:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 17:00, Sun it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 15:00-20:00. 15 - 25kn, 200 - 300kn/month. the time to relish some of the authentic local food and 30/(+385-1) 659 31 35, [email protected], www. meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave vitafitness.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 by noon. - 22:00. AW www.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 58 liFestYle DireCtorY Business DireCtorY 59 Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, [email protected]. Tax, legal and investment consulting. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of start- ing a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability com- pany or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told Italian Cultural Institute C-2, Preobraženska 4, Language Schools you can get a company registered in as little as seven tel. (+385-1) 483 02 08, [email protected], www. days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Q Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, fax Freephone info: 0800 00 80. Banks iiczagabria.esteri.it. Open: 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - (+385-1) 481 19 58, [email protected], www.berlitz.hr. 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mediatheque: Open 13:00 - 17:00, Numerous languages are taught with a communicative, well Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića 2, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, balanced modern approach. A universally recongised method Q Kic C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 14, that engages students at all levels. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Start a business [email protected], www.erstebank.hr. Open [email protected], www.kic.hr. With an internet caffe, music, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. video, gallery and all kinds of little events this is a great place Six simple steps: Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. Q Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60/S, tel. (+385-1) to hang out. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 461 80 05, [email protected], www.languagespot. 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Dry cleaners & Laundries 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461 bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) 07 77, fax (+385-1) 480 08 91, www.splitskabanka. 29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will pre- hr. Free info 0800 0210. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. pare the necessary papers for company registration. - 13:00. Closed Sun. Closed Sun. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 stamp (pečat) made. 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, [email protected], www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni Closed Sun. and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to Closed Sun. receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, number (matični broj). tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, [email protected], www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Emergency health care 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Author- Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. ity tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). Brokerage houses (+385-1) 460 01 11, [email protected], www.kdb.hr. QOpen 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 24hrs. Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. (+385-1) 480 76 00, Pharmacy 0-24 6 If the company will have employees, register as a Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) [email protected], www.auctor.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. payee of health insurance and pension contributions 480 32 00. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays Closed Sat, Sun. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3 (C-2) tel. 481 61 98, Ilica (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 24hrs. 301 (A-2) tel. 375 03 21, Ozaljska 1 (H-3) tel. 309 75 4, tel. 459 55 00). Hita vrijednosnice D-3, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) General Health H-2, Ulica Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 86, Avenija V. Holjevca 22, Siget (I-5) tel. 652 54 25 480 77 50, [email protected], www.hita.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 371 21 11. QOpen 24hrs. Grižanska 4, Dubrava (L-2) tel. 299 23 50 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterCapital vrijednosni papiri B-2, Massarykova  1, tel. (+385-1) 482 58 90/(+385-1) 482 58 92, 482 Zagreb 58 94, [email protected], www.intercapital.hr. www.inyourpocket.com telephone code is +385-1 QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 60 Business DireCtorY street register 61

Lawyers 29. X. 1918. C-1 Grič B-2 C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Kumičićeva C-4 Preradovićeva C-3 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Croatian Chamber of Economy Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Amruševa C-2 Gundulićeva B-3 Kurelčeva D-2 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 Andrije Hebranga B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Kuševićeva B-1 Primorska A-2 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Cham- A. Heinza E-1 Harmica C-2 Laginjina E-2 Radićeva C-1 Trpimirova D-4 52 00, fax (+385-1) 617 06 86, [email protected], Andrije Žaje A-3 Hochmanova A-3 Lepušićeva E-3 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Tuškanac B-1 ber, D-3, Draškovi- www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in the Antuna Bauera E-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Radnički dol A-1 Tvrtkova E-3 ćeva 45, tel. 4606 Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them Arnoldova A-2 Ilica A-2 Lopašićeva E-2 Ribnjak C-1 Unska B-4 7 7 7 , f a x 4 6 0 6 Augusta Šenoe D-3 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Rokov perivoj B-2 Varšavska B-2 a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise A. Marina Držića E-4 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Margaretska C-2 Rokova A-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 803, hgkzg@hgk. in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 Bakačeva C-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Marićev prolaz C-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Visoka B-1 hr, www.zg.hgk.hr. Barčićeva E-2 Jagićeva A-3 Markovićev trg B-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Vitezovićeva C-1 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baruna Trenka C-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Martićeva D-2 Runjaninova B-4 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Services: Promotion Basaričekova C-1 Jezuitski trg C-1 Marulićev trg B-3 Šalata D-1 Vlaška D-2 of business of the City Notaries Bednjanska B-4 Jukićeva A-3 Masarykova B-2 Savska cesta A-4 Voćarska cesta E-1 of Zagreb and Zagreb Berislavićeva C-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Matičina C-3 Schlosserove stube D-2 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga Biankinijeva E-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Matoševa B-1 Širolina E-3 Vodnikova B-4 County; Economic re- Bogovićeva C-2 Jurkovićeva E-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Skalinska C-1 Vojnovićeva E-2 lations with foreign 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, Božidara Adžije A-3 Kačićeva A-3 Medulićeva B-3 Smičiklasova D-2 Vončininova D-1 countries; Business [email protected], www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as Branjugova D-2 Kamaufova E-2 Mesnička B-2 Splavnica C-2 Vramčeva D-1 lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that Brešćenskoga E-2 Kamenita C-1 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Stančićeva E-3 Vranicanijeva B-1 events and meetings; Britanski trg A-2 Kaptol C-1 Miklouševa C-1 Starčevićev trg C-4 Vukotinovićeva B-3 International integrati- you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - Brozova A-4 Kapucinske stube B-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Streljačka B-1 Weberova C-1 on; Economic development; Information. 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Buconjićeva A-2 Katančićeva C-3 Miramarska C-4 Strojarska E-4 Zamenhoffova A-1 Bulatova A-2 Katarinin trg C-1 Mletačka B-1 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Zvonarnićka C-1 Bulićeva E-2 Klaićeva A-3 Mlinarske stube C-1 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Real estate Čačkovićeva E-1 Kneza Borne D-3 Mrazovićeva D-3 Svačićev trg C-3 Prva generacija I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 20, tel. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ Cesarčeva C-2 Kneza Branimira D-4 Nikole Tesle C-2 Švearova E-3 (+385-1) 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija. Čirilometodska C-1 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog Novakova D-1 Brezovačkoga B-1 (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) Crnatkova A-4 E-3 Opatička C-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 hr, www.prva-generacija.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 461 26 20, [email protected], www.jet-set.hr. Property Dalmatinska B-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Opatovina C-1 Tomašićeva E-2 Closed Sat, Sun. Degenova C-1 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Palmotićeva D-3 Tomićeva B-2 management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: Demetrova B-1 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Pantovčak A-2 Tratinska A-4 [email protected] QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 Dežmanova B-2 Koranska B-4 Park Ribnjak D-1 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Business connections Domagojeva D-4 Kordunska A-2 Paromlinska C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Đorđićeva D-2 Koturaška A-4 Patačićkina D-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), Dubravkin put B-1 Kovačića Ante C-3 Pavla Hatza D-3 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja 47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, fax (+385-1) 482 61 94, Dvoranski prečac C-1 Kozarčeva A-1 Pavla Šubića E-3 C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Kotarska C-1 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 (+385-1) 483 67 76, [email protected], www.amcham. [email protected], www.kingsturge.hr. A staff Felbingerove stube C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Perkovčeva B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Petrinjska C-2 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV and friendship between Croatia and the United States, you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Frane Petrića C-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Petrova E-1 E-3 Franje Račkog D-2 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Pierottijeva A-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 Frankopanska B-3 Križanićeva D-3 Pod zidom C-2 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. 03/(+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, Froudeova B-1 Kršnjavoga A-3 Posilovićeva E-1 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. [email protected], www.ozana.hr. True professionals Golubovac B-1 Krutićeva E-3 Praška C-2 C-3 Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. [email protected], www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:0800- QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 1852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, [email protected], www. 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, [email protected], www.fina. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, [email protected], www.mingorp. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Tax Interpreters & translators Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 23% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, Asta Kovačić E-4, Držićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 611 78 books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers 70/(+385-) 099 590 93 32. Open 24 hours. are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all Ciklopea H-3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-1) 375 17 taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their 36, fax (+385-1) 375 11 33, [email protected], incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is www.prevodimo.com. Office also at P. i T.Erdodya 15 (E-3), determined at the following rates: 15% for a net income up tel.639 52 95. to 3.600kn, 25% for the difference between net 3.600kn Davor Juričić Oriovčaninova 3, tel. (+385-1) 777 96 36, and 9.000kn, 35% for net income between 9.000kn and www.davor-juricic.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 25.200kn, 45% for a net income higer than 25.200kn. Prevoditeljski centar C-2, Amruševa 19, tel. (+385-1) Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the 492 27 30/(+385-1) 481 03 97, fax (+385-1) 481 law determines them on the basis of the deductions al- 76 58, [email protected], www. lowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is drustvoprevoditelja.t-com.hr. Their staff are fluent applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social (collectively, of course) in 21 European languages, Chinese, contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross Japanese and Arabic. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, income and the employer pays an additional 17,20%. The Sun. minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel./fax (+385-1) 309 59 the counter value in kunas of 20.000kn. A foreign founder 15, [email protected], www.spes.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. deposits the capital into a temporary account with an Closed Sat, Sun. authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such www.inyourpocket.com funds into regular company accounts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

66 inDeX

100% Istra (Kod Pavela) 37 Ethnographic Museum 48 Maksimir Park & the City Zoo Šestinski lagvić 39 100% Liquid Health 39 Evistas 33 46 Sheraton Zagreb Hotel 28 Agava 38 Fellini 38 Maraschino 43 Sirup 44 AKC Medika 42 Flores 40 Marcellino 38 Sliško 31 Apartment house Snježna Fly!bar 42 McDonald’s 38 Soba 42 kraljica 32 Four Points by Sheraton Meridijan 16 31 Sofra 35 Aquarius & Aquarius A2 44 Panorama Hotel Zagreb 28 Meštrović Atelier 48 Spunk 42 Archeological Museum in Funk 43 Mex Cantina 38 St Mark’s Church 46 Zagreb 47 Gaj 33 Mimice 38 Stari fijaker 900 36 Arcotel Allegra 28 Galerija 29 Mirogoj Cemetery 46 Stella 30 Aristos 28 Gašpar 39 MK (Krolo) 40 Stone Gate 46 Arts and Crafts Museum 47 Gavella 40 Močvara 42 Takenoko Sushi Bar 38 As 28 Gjuro II 44 Movie Pub 45 Technical Museum 48 Asia 36 Godot 45 Mu steak & chop house 39 The Cathedral of Assumpt ion of At the Black Eagle Pharmacy Golden Sun Casino 43 Never stop, Nemoj stati 32 the Blessed Virgin Mary 46 47 Grgosova spilja 39 Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square 46 The Croatian Museum of Naive B.P. Club 45 Hallo Kinez 39 NK Sava 37 Art 48 Bacchus 44 Hemingway lounge bar 45 No. 1 44 The Gallery 44 Ban Josip Jelačić Square 46 Hop Devil 45 Nova 39 The Glyptotheque of the Best Western Premier Hotel Horseburger 37 Oliver Twist 45 Croatian Academy of Sciences Astoria 28 Hotel Antunović 28 Omladinski hotel Remetinec 31 and Arts 49 Boogaloo 44 Hotel International Zagreb 28 Opium 35 The Mimara Museum 49 Booksa 40 Hotel Vila Tina 30 Orient 37 The Movie Hotel 30 Bulldog XL 42 I 33 Palace 29 The Museum of Post and Buzz Backpackers Club 30 Ilica 31 Paradise 34 Telecommunications 49 Canzona 38 Institut Parfumeur Flores 40 Pauza 36 The Observatory 47 Casino City 43 Intacta apartments 32 Phoenix 34 The Regent Esplanade Zagreb Casino Fortuna 43 InZagreb 32 Piccolo Mondo 38 29 Central 29 Ivica i Marica 36 Pif 40 The Westin Zagreb 28 Choco Bar 37 Jabuka 42 Pinguin Sandwich Bar 38 Tip-Top 36 Cica 40 Jadran 30 Piranha 44 Tkalčićeva 46 Crazy Horse 42 Jaegerhorn 31 Piterija Tomislav 35 Tomislavov dom 32 Croatian History Museum 47 Jazz Club 45 Pizzeria 2 39 Tvornica 44 Croatian Natural History K&K 40 Pod mirnim krovom 36 Vallis aurea 36 Museum 47 Karijola 39 Porin 34 Vegehop 39 Croatian School Museum 48 Kerempuh 36 Prasac 38 Vertigo 44 Cup ‘98 40 Khala 45 Pri Zvoncu 36 Vimpi 40 Čvenk 40 Klub Gastronomada 36 Purgeraj 42 Zagreb 31 Daily Fresh Gourmet Food & Kolding 40 Pušlek - Cvjetni trg 40 Zagreb City Museum 49 Coffee 35 Kota 40 Ravnice Youth Hostel 34 Zagreb Mummy 47 Didov san 36 Krivi put 42 Ritz Cabaret 44 Zagreb Youth Hostel 34 Dobar zvuk 45 Kset 42 Route 66 42 Zalogajnica “Kod Duje” 38 Dolac 46 La Salata 37 Rubelj grill 30 Zinfandels 38 Dora 29 Laguna 30 Runa 42 Zrin 40 Dublin Pub 45 Lemon 44 Saloon 44 Dubrovnik 28 Limb 43 Sax! 45 Eli’s 40 Maharadža 38 Sedmica 43

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Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com