Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- ZAGREB written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times October - November 2009 It’s our birthday! Gifts and specials to celebrate! It’s Autumn Perfect to sip on wine, nibble on cheese, fresh air... N°50 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com Culture Almanac Take a breakfast and cultural tour around the city with us! CONTENTS 3 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents Arriving in Zagreb 6 Your first view of the capital city The Basics 7 More than just climate stats (not much) History 8 Kings, queens, rooks and pawns Culture & Events 9 Interesting and boring stuff included Autumn in Zagreb 24 Golden leaves, ruby wine, feelin‘ fine! Where to stay 28 The sounds of trumpets will add to the spice of life at the Vip Jazzg A place to rest your weary head Festival! See page 20. Dining & Nightlife 35 Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Sightseeing What to see 46 Cafés 40 All those things you mustn’t miss Easily the best scene in the world! Mail & Phones Nightlife 42 Smoke signals and carrier pigeons 50 When you just gotta boogie Getting around 51 Save on shoe leather Transport map 53 Directory Shopping 54 Helping you get rid of that extra cash Lifestyle Directory 56 The most essential support Business Directory 59 Become a millionaire in no time Maps & Index Street index 61 City centre map 62 City map 64 Autumn is here and there is not better time to savour a drop of fresh Country map 65 young wine as it gets blessed in and around the different counties of Zagreb on Martinje - a traditional day dedicated to St. Martin who is Index 66 the patron saint to winemakers. See page 24. zagreb.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 4 FOREWORD Hooray! It’s new year! Seriously, here in Zagreb, the end of the summer holidays is Europe In Your Pocket a far more meaningful event in our lives than January 1. It’s now that we start the boring bits of our lives (work, school) with renewed vigour after all that healthy Dalmatian food and vitamin-giving sunshine. Sure, there are elements of pain too in that back-to-school feeling... but when we started rummaging around for new stuff to tell you about, we saw how much there is to look forward to this autumn. On the Culture & Events page overleaf, you’ll find a whole list of festivals and exhibitions which will be in town during October and November. And we’ve a story for you about something really special if you’re a follower of Dionysus. Close to Zagreb are ranges of startlingly pretty hills dotted with little villages, where for generations people have been tending vineyards and making wine. There are two wine routes that lead you through these, and it’s the perfect time to do it. Not only because the landscape is so beautiful right now, but also because this is the time when the locals celebrate the first of the year’s wine with righteous revelry. It’s a unique experience. And you’ll be delighted to know that in association with our sponsors and associates, we have prepared numerous discounts for you which you can take from our 50th edition. Find them whilst enjoying our latest publication. We take this opportunity to thank you for being with us, for taking the time to read and write to us at [email protected] Cheers! Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special Cover Story In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with With this edition, Zagreb In Your the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy Pocket celebrates its 50th time Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement edition, a milestone we’re cer- in our next Russian guides and online at russia. tainly proud of. When we were inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now considering the cover for this get your hands Sarajevo In Your Pocket when edition, we had multitudes of in- visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team teresting photos to choose from. - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and This one is by Staša Čimbur, an artist who works in Holland and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, she dedicated it to our birthday and to Venice. celebration. In October she will We welcome enquiries from anyone who would hold an exhibition in Zagreb. The like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either photo is called ‘Breakfast for Alisa’ and the photo and by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send post-production was made by Silvio Ramić. us an email at [email protected]. Editorial Copyright notice Editor Višnja Arambašić Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield form, except brief extracts for the Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač purpose of review, without written Zagreb In Your Pocket Researcher Anita Piplović permission from the publisher and Draškovićeva 66 Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan copyright owner. The brand name In Your Croatia Karabogdan Pocket is used under license from UAB tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). [email protected] Cover: Silvio Ramić www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket ISSN 1333-2732 guides is independent from paid-for ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Account Manager Mirna Cindrić advertising. Sponsored listings are General Manager Višnja Arambašić clearly marked as such. We welcome all Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Sales & Circulation Manager readers‘ comments and suggestions. Kristijan Vukičević We have made every effort to ensure Published 6 times per year the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 6 ARRIVING IN ZAGREB BASICS 7 By train save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more Tourist information Customs people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as user- equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed Tourist Information Centre have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at tel. 481 40 51/ 481 40 53, info@ secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb- are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, touristinfo.hr. Free info phone num- will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it ber 0800 53 53. QOpen 08:30 papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. keep them with you. the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for Visas By bus ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your call 610 23 25/610 24 61. your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central surroundings - this is the centre.