SEPT/OCT 2016 SEPT/OCT A must-visit street in town With the makeover of one of Zagreb’s prettiest streets finally completed, the main route from the Lower to the Upper Town is back in full swing. Radićeva street is a symbol of both Zagreb’s romantic past and its new buzzy vibe. Now together with Mesnička street, which runs parallel, it marks off the spectacular walking district of central Zagreb, including the Grič tunnel that connects both streets underground. INSTAGRAM* Julien Duval Photo: AUTUMN LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT FIRST GOLD FROM RIO has come home. Unbeat- able discus thrower MINUTE 2 Sandra Perković, the m2 2100 m 3,2 m Get your teeth Sinković rower broth- total area wide into street food ers and sports shooter Josip Glasnović came Reap the fruits of summer back to Zagreb for a 200C on every corner of the city. summer 5,5 m victory dance. Croatia’s temperature max width September is the time for olympic delegation was corn on the cob – choose headed up by Janica 350 m long it grilled or boiled. Or stick Kostelić, winner of four Mesnička Radićeva around till October and olympic golds. then feast on scrumptious @olimpijci.hr Zagreb’s secret tunnel unveiled warm chestnuts that you’ll by see being roasted all over NEW FOUNTAINS Did you know Zagreb has an underground tunnel? the National University Originally built during WW2 and only used again the city center. Don’t wor- Library begin sprinkling as an air shelter in the Homeland War, it remained a ry if your hands get dirty, in September. Zagreb’s mystery until this summer. Once open to the public, this is part of the ritual: mayor promises more to the tunnel became a top tourist attraction, the city’s peel, walk and chew. come, the first one cur- best shortcut and the thickest shade from summer heat. 350 meters long, it connects Mesnička and rently being constructed Radićeva with an additional exit to Tomićeva, near the on the British Square. hip Art Park, and a future one in the Upper Town. Next @zagreb.hr year the tunnel turns into the Museum of the Senses. WORD FIRST DOUBLE-DECKER bus Jesen hits the streets in Sep- ZAGREB PICKPOCKETS tember. A blue roofless are out - literally. Though the (Yes-sen) tourist bus stops by 17 pickpocket gang was rumored Autumn, Herbst, attractions on the 16km- to pester Zagreb this year, the Automne, Otoño, long route, starting from fact is there have never been Outono, Autunno the corner of Vlaška and fewer theft incidents: only 41 Palmotićeva streets. recorded cases, 30 less than @infozagreb.hr last year. @mup.hr 秋, 가을, 秋 Fierce in spirit and Lilliputian in size, Zagorka received a fine compliment from Fran Supilo: “Little Zagorka, WHAT you’re a real man.” MONOVIEW WHERE September is the most WHEN Zagrebish month of all CELEBRATE YOUR TOP THREE SECRETS ABOUT ZA- ALL THINGS RETRO ZAGREB GREB... Mount Medvednica, The best way to enjoy SUPERHEROES with gorgeous fall foliage, Zagreb’s Indian summer Zagorka – the seemingly dull Novi is to go retro. Hit the small woman larger than life Zagreb with socialist-style Vintage Zagreb Festival Captured in mid-stride in front of the buildings full of curious (Sept 3–10) just off the Sun Clock on Tkalčićeva street is Marija spots, and if I crave the Jelačić Square, where Jurić Zagorka, the first woman journal- Iva Silla, ist in this part of Europe who fought storyteller and taste of real bread - Tra- you can dance to the for women rights and against the founder of Secret jković bakery (Nova Ves) 40s, 50s and 60s beats 19th-century Austro-Hungarian oppres- Zagreb, just which still uses real fire for and snag cool fashion sion. Though her male colleagues often pronounced one baking. items or accessories sneered at her history and romance of the 10 best YOUR BESTSELLING TOUR FOR FALL? such as a retro make-up novels as pulp fiction, Zagorka was and alternative city Zagreb Ghosts and Dragons tours in Europe by kit. Go all out by grow- remains the most widely read woman author of all times. The Guardian is a hit with individual visi- ing your hair and then tors who like to explore the having it cut retro style ZAGREB IS A dark side. Zagrebarium and on the spot. Witch Hunt are popular #VintageZagreb CITY OF TALES with groups. AND MEMORIES, SEPTEMBER IN ZAGREB... is the WITH A most “Zagrebish” month of all. It brings up a certain ANJA MUTIĆ TANGIBLE SOUL melancholy with cloudy Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for skies and life getting back New York Magazine and The Washington to normal after a long Post. Follow her at @everthenomad summer. The colors of Medvednica and the smell of roasted chestnuts are two things that hav- September en’t changed during my life in Zagreb. FOOD AND FILM MIXING WHERE DO YOU GO TO HIDE AWAY? I feel drawn to AND MATCHING shift Sljeme, the whispers of nature and times Gorgeous Zrinjevac park long past. I even organize a walking tour delivers another unique gaze at the Adriatic as I called Into the Woods, that goes from the end-of-summer event: I type this. It’s been nearly city center all the way to the forest trails. Food Film festival (Sept a month since I left Zagreb. I love these enchanted woods. But don’t 11–20). Foodies and In that time, I got my yearly underestimate Medvednica – although not cinephiles, bring your fix of endless blue, sea salt, high, it’s a large mountain, where you can passions together and crickets, sunburnt skin, island hide but also get lost. discover some of Za- time, backstroke at noon... In WHAT IS IT ABOUT ZAGREB THAT INSPIRES YOUR TOURS AND greb’s best restaurateurs, summertime, I tend to look QUESTS? Zagreb is a city of tales and memories, patisseries and winemak- out. Then September comes, I with a tangible soul. No matter how charm- ers. Join the gourmet return to Zagreb and slowly, a ing its center, it’s only when you step into an workshops and make sure subtle shift happens – my gaze empty alley or a forest trail that the city truly to stick around for open- turns from the outside in. resonates. As Zagreb changes fast, I wish to air film screenings (every love that shift. The slightly in- preserve this intangible heritage and share it night from 9pm) that Itrospective mode that Zagreb with curious travelers. promise to make your awakens in me come September. mouth water. @foodfilm- Though you can still feel whiffs HIDDEN ZAGREB festivalzagreb.hr of summer, the city picks up an UPPER TOWN FOR entirely different pace. GOURMETS To most people, it’s the “back Silent & secret Locals have fallen in love to school” time, the rush hour agreb guards its secrets well but we’ve with the Little Market traffic, jam-packed sidewalk ca- Zgot intel on what’s hot this month. One from the Attic, a weekly fes... If you ask, they’ll complain of the most interesting events will be kick- gathering of organic about their summer break being ing off on Sep 10, the first in the series of food producers set up over before they even blinked. Silent parties lined up for Sept. Beck’s Silent in a small loft. This sum- To most people, it marks the end experience and Secret Garden exhibition mer you can catch their of something. will take place in the verdant garden of the gourmet delights on o me, September in Zagreb Museum of Arts & Crafts. This gorgeous Wednesdays (Sept 7 & Tis an epilogue to summer. atrium will showcase a blend of audiovisual 14; 5–9pm) at the Vrany- It marks the right time to shift arts paired with tasty bites. The inaugural czany Plateau. Bring a the gaze, to begin reflection. The edition starts with DJ sets by Indy (hip blanket and sip a fruit or perfect prologue to winter. It hop and RnB), Rea (house and garage) and veggie cocktail paired will still take a couple of weeks Sin (fun, disco and 80s/90s). Three visual with a wow vista of the before the sun crosses the artists will be featuring their work at every city. #malipiknik celestial equator from north to party. The first trio will include renowned Sanjin Kaštelan south and fall kicks off officially. graphic designers and illustrators: Vedran But for me, I already see the Klemens, Nebojša Cvetković and Ivo Matić. contours of a new beginning in The exhibit (free) opens at 10pm, the the city streets. party (40KN admission) starts at 11pm. ZAGREB’S BEST AND MOST AFFORDABLE EATS With the abundance of fresh fruit & veg, no wonder fall is the best season for feasting. Don’t miss the traditional Restaurants Week’s (October 7–16) serious wining and dining offer: a three-course meal + glass of wine for 100KN! Pick a restaurant of your choice @tjedanrestorana.com. RECORD BREAKING SEASON Zagreb joins the ranks of the best n this so far record tourist sea- last five years nor its award as the for everyone in Zagreb’s 53 hotels, Ison for Croatia, Zagreb joins the European best destination. It’s the 50+ hostels and more than 1000 ranks of the best - Dubrovnik and aliveness and a freshly brewed buzz private apartments.