WINTER 2017 Zagreb wins, take three! They say third time’s a charm, but for Europe’s third-time best Advent in a row, no need for luck. Visitors’ votes, had they only counted foreigners’, were plenty for Zagreb to win. Up to 131 countries gave their votes to 24 cities. Americans, Russians, Irish and Australians love Zagreb’s Advent most, and Germans gave us more votes than for all three of their cities combined. @adventzagreb.com INSTAGRAM* Photo: Željko Lukunić/Pixsell Željko Photo: LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr ZAGREB’S AGE-OLD water source for a while, as it served least as a spring. It’s not the type of fountain where you toss FIRST FOUNTAIN CELEBRATES coins either. When that was banned, people cut the TH custom. Traditionally, each spring break seniors ITS 30 BIRTHDAY jump into Manduševac to mark the end of high MINUTE Manduševac is turning 30, though it’s been around school days, as if it were a pool. All year round, it’s RAISE YOUR GLASS TO forever. Back in the day it was a spring, then a well, a favorite meeting place, an unavoidable spot in THE FESTIVE SEASON and after that, a drinking fountain. To this day it town. This Christmas Eve, don’t miss the fourth Nothing captures the spirit glimmers on Zagreb’s main square. It hasn’t been a Advent Candle being lit by Manduševac. of Zagreb Advent so much as SHORT HISTORY OF MANDUŠEVAC a glass of steaming mulled wine. At all other times of 1300s 1852 1898 1986 1987 2017 first well blocked during the revealed after Manduševac stronger year, the locals’ drink of mentioned connected to main square’s the square’s as it is today water jet and choice is coffee. But come as a spring* the water reconstruction reconstruction lighting festive December, everyone system follows the whiff of warm *according to a medieval peppery spices spreading legend, a Croatian war around town. Order one leader was thirsty and gave yourself, toast to the holidays an order to a local girl: and feel the inner glow melt “Manda, dear, scoop me the winter chill. some water,” which is how Manduševac and Zagreb both got their names WORD TALKABOUT their way. Action begins their makers. #Ilica this February when over SARMA sandwich? TRAM rides in the city 20,000 ordered containers At the best Advent Fritule center are free on week- will find a home. everything’s best, so (Free-too-le) ends. ZET offers free @zagreb.hr are buns with New Little doughnuts, petits rides in the first zone ILICA made 41st place on Year’s traditional sau- beignets, piccole ciambelle, through the end of Ad- the world’s 50 streets with erkraut and meat dish. pequeños donuts vent. @zet.hr highest rent, topped by Sausages, fritule – all ZAGREB PEOPLE are NYC’s Fifth Avenue. Ilica is just as good as last starting to recycling is probably the only street year, but even non- garbage; bins in different that sells hand-crafted fans are ordering this. colors and shapes are on shoes and coats right from #adventzagreb ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE WHEN BRACE FOR THE FUTURISTIC SPECTACLE Ideas of two greatest minds from Croatia – inventor Nikola Tesla and sculptor Ivan Meštrović Ivana Nikolić Popović, founder of Readymade Ilica – meet in the state-of- Sljeme’s Snow Queen and King the-art exhibition Nikola After New Year’s, everyone head to Tesla – Mind from the Fu- Sljeme! Snow Queen Trophy takes The new bloom of Ilica, ture. Catch this science- place on January 3 and 4, but for when street spaces and cum-art show featuring the first time this year without the video art, animation and Kostelić siblings. Janica Kostelić, af- courtyards come to life technical innovation in ter whom Snow Queen was named, the unique octagonal Art is a World Championship and Today Ilica, besides being the city’s main Pavilion by Meštrović. Olympic gold medalist and three- artery, is a medium that actively took part in @teslamindfromthe time World Cup winner. Today, she’s all of Zagreb’s phases – from its construction future.com the Croatian Secretary of State for at the end of the 18th century, and up to Sports. Her older brother, Ivica, an the 21st. In essence, Ilica is a mirror of the COMMON PEOPLE – Olympic and World Championship town’s architectural development. If you FAB ART gold medalist too, is a guitar player, head to Črnomerec via Ilica from Jelačić Art lovers, don’t miss the historian, father and adrenaline square, you’ll notice the buildings from all large retrospective exhi- junkie. Recently he stopped racing those different eras standing equally side bition of Vasko Lipovac, but you can count on both of them by side, offering a colorful pattern to this one of Croatia’s most im- being up there when Snow Queen romantic street. portant artists of the sec- begins. Zagreb’s best athletes, even Ilica should consciously and systematically ond half of the 20th cen- by the number of city titles, were approach the activation of its resources, tury. Head to Klovićevi never the champions of their own namely its people, empty street spaces and Dvori (until Jan 7) and slope, Sljeme. the enormous potential of its courtyards. enjoy never-before-seen As a whole, a city doesn’t only consist of its paintings, drawings and buildings, it’s the people who live in them sculptures of remarkable that matter. With the Readymade Ilica plasticity that speak of project, we aim for a revitalization model the bittersweet human that includes collaborating with the street’s condition. @gkd.hr residents. The best proposals we received for Ready- ANJA MUTIĆ made Ilica were hard to single out because the project is based on the concept of raising Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New York Magazine and The Washington awareness in the community, which needs Post. Follow her at @everthenomad to systematically approach activating Ilica’s resources. The residents are those who need to be satisfied first. My favorite places in Ilica are neglected 20TH-CENTURY Zagreb's courtyards that seem like MODERN ART SPECIAL empty canvases that need As you enjoy Advent winter buzz MORE to be painted with content. cheer filled with outdoor CULTURAL That’s always really thrill- fun, don’t miss a sneak he secret is out. Wintertime ing. For example, Ilica 54, peak inside the Art TZagreb is in. The crowds HAPPENINGS 60 or 34. Take a stroll and Pavilion. The Passion of milling the streets attest to that. if you notice any signs of Creation exhibit (on until The boom is so big and the buzz so IN PARKS, new life, let me know. Jan 15) showcases stun- sticky that Zagreb keeps receiving MARKET When I’m not in Ilica, I’m ning work by the world’s busloads of people from all over probably taking a walk in leading modern artists, the world, coming to unearth TOURS FOR the parks or forests that such as Braque, Chagall, its delights. And it’s stacking up TOURISTS literally intertwine with Calder and Miró, all under awards, one after another. the city’s core. That is the the same roof. Perfect As a witness standing on the side- beauty of Zagreb – it has opportunity to get your lines, I love seeing it happen. For so much well-manicured dose of expressionism, a local trying to get a table in the greenery, like the magnif- cubism and abstract art. city center on a Saturday morning icent walkway Dubravka’s @umjetnicki-paviljon.hr during the weeks of Advent, it can trail, or dreamy Roko’s garden-park. If Za- be tricky. That’s why I love to stick greb’s parks and woods could be filled with TIME TRAVELS around my part of town. I’ve been cultural happenings, the city would bloom. THROUGH THE ART OF finding particular joy in haunting During Advent, a must for me is visiting the DECORATION my neighborhood spots, away from Pop Up Garden that introduced a new con- Hit Zagreb’s Ethnograph- the holiday hubbub. cept of Christmas. It would be great if there ic Museum (until Jan ee the top sights, sample the were more initiatives like that. I’m excited to 28) to catch a unique Sstaples, take in the buzz, feel the see Advent by the Croatian National Theat- exhibition featuring holiday spirit, cross them all from er; I’m sure it will be spectacular. Maybe traditions of festive the bucket list. Then step away British Square will have its own Advent one decorations of the 19th from well-traipsed routes and take day, too. century. Feathers, Apples a tram ride or a stroll east. Check The best time to visit Zagreb is in spring, and a Grain of Salt boasts out the cafes along Martićeva, have from April to the beginning of July, when stories and designs of the a roam around Kvatrić market, the the town is buzzing with cultural events, holiday season. On are down-home alternative to Dolac, everything is abloom, markets are filled with also workshops, lectures and put on layers and roam around locally grown fruits and vegetables. It would and entertainment for the snow-covered Maksimir. Discover be great to organize market tours for tour- little ones. @emz.hr a different Zagreb. ists, since that’s really a special experience.