ROADSOUTHERN AFRICAN ROUTES WORTH TAKINGTRIP TRIP THE SIGHTS FANTASTIC Botswana without a 4x4? MELANIE VAN ZYL proves it’s possible in a sedan. Swim in the Okavango Delta, meet meerkats, sleep under the stars on the Makgadikgadi Pans and greet some of Botswana’s 150 000 elephants on this week-long adventure
Both men and women from the Boro community, just outside Maun, pole traditional boats called mokoros so visitors can experience the crystal-clear channels of
the Okavango Delta. Zyl van Melanie
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rust the dust,’ said Planet I was beyond pleased that I could ‘ Baobab guide, SK (otherwise explore some of the pans without a 4x4, known as Karabo Koontse). and to gain a greater understanding of the ‘Donkeys are Africa’s water networks, fauna, flora and plentiful Ferraris,’ he continued as minerals, I enlisted the help of guide Pako weT bumped past a pair of them along the Mphinyane from Nata Lodge. He drove sandy track that led from Gweta to the me out to rougher areas of the sanctuary Makgadikgadi Pans. The dust, finer than (which I couldn’t reach in the Suzuki), ground cinnamon and as white as ash, identifying birds and animals as we drove. billowed up in our wake as we neared our ‘The plains zebra is the national animal destination for the night – Ntwetwe Pan. of Botswana. Why? It’s black and white There’s an old debate about whether reflecting our history of independence, how inherited traits or one’s life experiences Sir Seretse Khama, a black man, married play the greater role in shaping personality – Ruth Williams, a white woman, signifying nature versus nurture. I lived in Botswana’s that all people are welcome in Botswana.’ capital for two years as a toddler and I’m At sunset, I walked along the water’s convinced that during that time some edge, gazed out across Botswana’s infinite Gaborone dust crept into my bloodstream. ‘sea’ and felt tugged to further explore With eight hours to kill on the first leg of my the vastness of this wide place. Nata is ‘Dragonflies road trip from Joburg to Nata, I had plenty perched on the very tip of the huge of time to think about those formative network of salt plains that makes up the swished past years in Gabs. greater Makgadikgadi Pans and I wanted was all the proof was sit back and enjoy the ride. We glided Twenty-five years later, I was back in more. Sadly, my Suzuki wasn’t built for lime-green reeds’ a human needed past honey-centred water lilies, while Botswana to explore my neighbouring an off-road trip to the centre of these flat to confirm that almost-transparent, yet bright-blue, country with nothing but a sedan separating plains, but Planet Baobab field guide, SK, the world is, in fact, a sphere. dragonflies swished past lime-green reeds me from the road – solo in a Suzuki. Of and a different kind of ‘African Ferrari’ From this enormous thirstland, I drove with delicate painted reed frogs clinging course, a sedan couldn’t tackle the 4x4 track – the quad bike – made it possible. to another equally enormous but much to their stalks. I prickled with mild panic into Botswana’s dry white centre, but it I covered my eyes with sunglasses, wetter stretch of land – the Okavango Delta. when I heard the harrumphing of hippos was an easy drive to Nata Bird Sanctuary, mouth and nose with a scarf, opened the Both geographical features are so big they announcing their presence nearby. my first stop. throttle and literally drove into the sunset can be identified from the moon. A great thing about boating without a A leading birding destination, this to spend a night in the middle of nowhere. The tarred A3 road to Maun disintegrated noisy engine is you can hear the rhythmic community sanctuary hosts a flamboyance Huddling beside a fire after supper cooked just after the entrance gate to Nxai Pan lap of water against the mokoro hull. Even of lesser flamingos after good rains. In fact, over the coals out on the Ntwetwe Pan, National Park and I had to drive slowly better, was listening to the crunch of an the rains were so good this year that they I looked up at a rounded dome of around the potholes with my low-profile elephant at close quarters as it ripped up Nata Bird Sanctuary is accessible in a sedan and sits on the edge of Sua Pan. flooded Nata and sections of the road all diamonds. Botswana’s riches lie not in tyres. ‘It’s a complimentary Botswana rich grass on one of the delta’s islands. After Makgadikgadi is the name referring to the way to Maun, which is why the track the ground but above, I thought. With massage’, said Gerald Swynnerton of an hour of this bliss, we reached our island three pans: Sua, Ntwetwe and Nxai. was so horrendously potholed. the whole night sky visible, this starscape Delta Rain African Safaris, when I griped camp for the night. about the road on arrival at Sitatunga Camp, Mompati Partner was the lead boatman just outside Maun. After a couple of local of the group and had been poling for over St Louis beers and a comfortable night there, 30 years. ‘We learn how to boat when we it was time to get to my next overnight are children,’ he said. I asked him how long adventure: a mokoro trip into the delta. it would take to teach me. ‘Two days if The Boro boat station reminded me of a you’re good. It’s just about balance, like border post – organised chaos. Here, Gerald riding a bicycle,’ he added. To beat the heat, and I met mokoro poler Ricco Gaositwe. Mompati found us a safe swimming spot ABOVE The mobile Ricco works within the Okavango Kopano in one of the shallower channels and, camps move often Mokoro Community Trust, a tourism project once refreshed, we regrouped for a late- between islands that uses local guides and polers to take afternoon bush walk across the island. in the Okavango tourists on a wild-camping experience in It’s thought that the Okavango Delta, Delta to maintain the Okavango Delta. Gerald’s company declared the world’s 1 000th Unesco a low human impact on the facilitates these trips and provides camping Heritage Site in 2014, has more than
Melanie van Zyl van Melanie environment. kit and excellent meals, so all I had to do 150 000 islands. Some are a few metres
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‘The sky made me feel wide, with larger islands reaching a spectacle. I’m not exaggerating when I say gooey inside’ 10 kilometres long. On our bushwalk, there were about a thousand plains zebras we discovered the island was abundant milling around the riverbank. Named the with life. Mompati told us about the longest land-mammal migration by National towering lala palms that loomed above us, Geographic in 2014, it centres around the and pointed out palm-nuts in elephant mysterious Boteti River, which was dry for dung (which need to be digested by these almost 20 years until it flowed again in 2008. mammals in order to seed). We also found The cry of a fish eagle echoed along the termite mounds bigger than 4x4s and banks of the river and I was reminded of bumped into an elephant too. ‘Let’s keep the first night of my trip when I stood with walking’, Mompati said, as I stopped briefly Pako from Nata Lodge watching the sunset. to try to snap a photo of it. We also saw a ‘Now we are left with God’s colours,’ he herd of zebras, two giraffes, some leaping had murmured. lechwes and lion scat. That night, I fell I wouldn’t describe myself as particularly soundly asleep to the song of painted reed spiritual, but experiencing such a tender
ABOVE It’s thought that these frogs and the whoops of a spotted hyena. pink in the sky made me feel gooey inside flamingos at Nata Bird Sanctuary Trying to eke out as much Botswana and surprisingly emotional. There was migrate from Walvis Bay in Namibia. goodness as I could, I opted for a trip into something about its infinite softness that OPPOSITE TOP, FROM LEFT A cosy bedroll the Makgadikgadi National Park on my I could barely tell where the world ended is your room on an overnight pan trip last afternoon. I was staying at Boteti River and the sky began. It was enough to make with Planet Baobab; baobab trees are Camp, almost directly opposite the distant anyone believe in anything – yourself, love, actually enormous succulents with brittle point on the Makgadigadi Pans where I’d life after death, you name it. flesh, so they are not used for timber. OPPOSITE Thousands of plains zebras started my Botswana adventure. We crossed If I’d learnt one thing after cruising this congregate in the Makgadikgadi National the river into the park on a game drive beautiful country, it’s that when nurtured,
Melanie van Zyl van Melanie Park, which borders Boteti River Camp. and were immediately rewarded with nature unequivocally wins.
56 NOVEMBER 2018 getaway.co.za 57 ROAD TRIP BOTSWANA Okavango Delta 8 Potholes Nxai Pan Maun 6 National Park Gweta Day by day Directory Elephants 7 A3 A3 Nata 5 3 ZIMBABWE A3 Makgadikgadi Meerkats Day 1: Joburg to Nata Day 3, 4 & 5: Gweta to Maun 1 Seringa Cafe. Set under 9 National Park 4
DISTANCE 880km ALLOW 11 hours DISTANCE 220km ALLOW 4 hours shady trees in the Vaalwater To Ghanzi Leave early. There’s a long drive ahead but it’s possible to get to When you return to Planet Baobab, shower at the campsite bushveld, you’ll feel your Zebras Starry A3 Nata in a day. Head up the N1 north towards Polokwane and after ablutions and then buckle up for the 220km stretch to Maun. The holiday has started after B300 skies Francistown two hours take the off-ramp to Modimolle. Keep straight on the R33 road is severely potholed between the Nxai Pan National Park gate breakfast here (scrambled to Vaalwater. Stop for breakfast at Seringa Cafe (1), then carry on and the vet fence. Old Bridge Backpackers (6) serves an affordable eggs and toast from R35). Orapa to Lephalale. From here, take the R572 and enter Botswana via lunch, then head south on the A3 for the last half-hour drive to Check out the crafts next A1 Martin’s Drift border post (2). Take a right onto the B151 past Sitatunga Camp (7). The next morning you’ll be transferred to the door at Black Mamba. A14 Lerala and then turn left towards Tamasane to join the A1 road to Boro boat station (8) for the overnight mokoro trip with Delta Rain 014-161-0643 Botswana Francistown. From here, take the A3 north and drive the remaining African Safaris. 2 Martin’s Drift border two hours to Nata Lodge (3). Aim to arrive by 4pm so you can join post. You need R210 (P152) A15 the game drive into Nata Bird Sanctuary (4) for sunset. to pay for a road permit B151 (there is a card machine) and patience. I waited 10 2 almost two hours in the SOUTH AFRICA queue to pay this fee. Fill up the car at Kwa Nokeng, Lephalale just over the border. Fuel in supper and full breakfast at The uncatered one-night trip R572 Botswana was about R5 per Planet Baobab. R2 390 pp. is R3 462 pp (bring your own SITATUNGA CAMP litre less than South Africa. (If you skip the quad biking bedding, food and cooking 1 Vaalwater 3 Nata Lodge. An oasis and opt for the sleepout only, paraphernalia), or pay R4 515 pp To Joburg for many road trippers, with it’s R2 066 pp). 011-326-4407 for full board, which includes a restaurant, pool and bar 6 Old Bridge Backpackers. camping equipment and two Day 6 & 7: Maun to Khumaga to Joburg area. Lesser bushbabies After all those tiring potholes, guided bushwalks. Bring cash DISTANCE 152km and 991km ALLOW 2½ hours and 11 hours hang out in the trees just stop for lunch here on the river to tip your mokoro guide. Cross the Boteti River and From Maun, take the A3 road back towards Nata. There’s a short after dusk. There are stylish under a fig tree. A butternut +267-680-0380 enjoy a 4x4 game drive in potholed stretch to contend with before turning right onto the B300 Meru-style tents and more and cashew salad costs R82. 9 Boteti River Camp. this wild park (R370 pp). through Motopi and on to Khumaga to stay at Boteti River Camp (9). luxurious, spacious chalets +267-686-2406 Overlooking the Makgadikgadi +267-686-3763 NATA It’s a long haul back to Gauteng from here, but you can break the on stilts with sunset-facing 7 Sitatunga Camp. Just National Park, the six chalets are 10 Kwa Nokeng Lodge. journey with a stay near Martin’s Drift border post. Kwa Nokeng verandas. From R677 pp. outside Maun and with access beautifully kept and all feature For an overnight stay, Lodge (10) comes highly recommended. +267-620-0070 to the Thamalakane River, a charming outdoor shower. At this offers simple lodgings 4 Nata Bird Sanctuary. Sitatunga has new tented suites times, you can hear the sounds on the Limpopo River in BOTETI RIVER CAMP Day 2: Nata to Gweta Hop on a guided game drive (equipped with power points) of life from nearby Khumaga fully furnished tents with DISTANCE 115 km ALLOW 2 hours with Nata Lodge for a full under shady trees. The pool and village. From R720 pp; dinner electricity. From R400 pp. This is a short day so you can wake up late and enjoy a morning at tour of the pans (R363 pp) restaurant area are close by, (booked in advance) is R250 pp. +267-491-5908 Nata Lodge. There’s an Engen nearby at Nata village to refuel, then or explore it yourself – in and there’s a variety of food on turn left on the A3 towards Maun. Get to Planet Baobab (5), about a small car, this is restricted the menu – don’t leave without 7km from Gweta, in time for lunch. The overnight quad-bike trip to to the one road that leads tasting the bacon and beef THE CAR: SUZUKI BALENO 1.4 GLX MT the salt pan leaves at 2pm and ends the next day at 9am. It includes to the main lookout. Pack burger (R100). Tents are • Manual drive with easy-to-use cruise control a meerkat walk, either that afternoon or early the next morning. binocs to study pink-backed R445 pp, or upgrade to a neat for comfort on long stretches. pelicans, lesser flamingos, air-conditioned chalet with • Great fuel consumption on the open road at roughly bat-eared foxes and more. a private pool for R480 pp. 5,1L per 100km, with an excellent tank range of about Entry R185 pp. If you have extra time, consider 720km (I filled up with cheaper fuel in Bots and easily 5 Planet Baobab. Quad a day trip to Moremi Game made it back to Gauteng). TOTAL COST: R 9 772 pp bike across the Ntwetwe Reserve for good wildlife • Bluetooth connectivity ensured that I could listen to Pan and sleep under the sightings (from R2 250 pp, ADVENTURE & ACCOMMODATION my favourite podcasts on the journey. Nata R1 040 pp (including a game drive) stars on an overnight trip including lunch). +267-680-0380 Planet Baobab R2 390 pp DB&B with Unchartered Africa 8 Boro boat station. The best Sitatunga R890 pp (for two nights) Safaris based at Planet time to venture out in a mokoro Mokoro overnight trip R3 462 pp (self-catered) Baobab. The trip includes is from July to October, when Boteti River Camp R1 090 pp (including a game drive) a guided drive, walking water levels are high. Delta Rain Fuel R900 pp with a habituated meerkat African Safaris offers one- and Based on two people sharing. Excludes additional food costs colony, a hearty braai two-night mokoro adventures. not included in accommodation rates.
PLANET BAOBAB Zyl van Melanie
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