Abu-Lughod, Janet 25–6, 300 Abyssinia 20 Africa 1, 17, 23, 27

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Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-00022-3 - Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World Giorgio Riello Index More information

INDEX

Abu-Lughod, Janet 25–6, 300 Bantam 95 Abyssinia 20 Barcelona 173, 234 Africa 1, 17, 23, 27, 291 Barclay, David 145, 146 Agra 105 Barnes, Ruth 17–18 agriculture Basle 172 in Britain 246 Basra 23, 27 and the economy 7 Bayonne 123 in Europe 248 beads 23 extensive 197 Bean, Susan 282 Agri-Horticultural Society (Madras) 261 Beaulieu, Antoine Georges Nicolas de 167–8 Ahmedabad 20, 27, 92, 167, 170 Bell, Thomas 181 Aleppo 23, 70 Belon, Pierre 82 Alexander, James 146 Bengal 20, 30, 43, 46, 61, 107, 261 Allen, Robert C. 9, 354 Bentinck, Lord 273 Alsace 173, 216 Berg, Maxine 9, 123, 225, 298 American Civil War 259, 267, 361 Bergerac 123 Amsterdam 113, 115, 125, 170, 173, 174 Berlin 172 Anatolia 22, 43, 70 Beveridge, Sir William 324 Angola 34, 190 Biafra 138, 329 anthropology 29 Biberach 74 Antilles 149 Bibliotheque` Nationale de France 167 archaeology 17, 50 Bolton 228 Arkwright, Richard 54, 185, 211, 212, 213, Bombay 92, 262, 270 221, 226 Borneo 20, 281 artefacts 19; see also material culture Boston, Massachusetts 144 Ashmolean Museum 17 Botti, Matteo 115 Ashton, T. S. 186 Boulle, Pierre H. 159 Aubin, Christophe 260, 280 Bowen, Huw 322 Augsburg 74 Boyle, Robert 182 Australia 242 Brazil 90, 135, 144, 279 Britain 9, 267 Baghdad 23 British Board of Trade 270 Bairoch, Paul 68 British Cotton Supply Association 261 Bali 34 British House of Commons 274 bandanas 288, 289 British Rule in India 274 Banks, Joseph 164 Broach 20, 106

396 / Index

Brunias, Augustin 200, 202 workshops for 125 Bryant, Joseph M. 297 Cambay 20, 25, 137 Burhanpur 21 Cambodia 34 Burma 29, 44 camphor 25 Bursa 43 Canals, Esteve 234 Canton 280 Cadiz 115, 142, 255 Cape of Good Hope 137 Cairo 27, 277 Cape Route 89 Cairo-Geniza (documents) 299 capital 290 calico; see cotton textiles varieties human 6 calico craze 112, 150 social 275 calico painters 166 capitalism 264 calico painting 80 caravan trade 75 calico printers 81, 124, 150, 165, carkhı¯ 50 227 Carreira da India´ 89, 112 Armenian 169–70 Carter, Nathaniel 231 calico printing 6, 80–2, 86, 124, 131, 151, Cary, John 129 154, 163 casta paintings 144 in Amsterdam 337 caste system 32, 217 in Anatolia 82 Chettis 32 and bleaching 106 Castille 115 in China 82 Chandra, Bholanath 293 in colour blue 176–8 Charkha 51, 52 in colour red 178–9 Chassagne, Serge 156 in England 172, 231–2 Chaudhuri, K. N. 113, 115, 324 in Europe 172–5 Chennai 217 fastness of 182 Chevalier de Querelles, Jean Jacques Louis in France 155–7 168 in Germany 162 China 1, 8, 11, 30, 34, 35, 39, 44 in Holland 173, 337 chintzes; see cotton textiles varieties in India 338 Clark, Gregory 368 in Japan 82 Clarke, Purdon 278 knowledge of 163–9 Clingingsmith, David 365 and painting 160 clothing; see dress patterning through 334 coal 9, 242 and pencilling 80, 177 Coeurdoux, Pere` 168 printworks for 337 Coghlan, John 153 role of colourists in 178 Coimbatore 22, 42 role of engravers in 234 Colmar 172 scientiﬁc knowledge of 181–3 colonialism 186, 274 size of the industry 173–4 colonies 268 in Southeast Asia 82 Colquhoun, Patrick 203 in Spain 173 Columbian exchange 190 and spying 183 commercial involution 220 use of copperplates in 179, 180 commodiﬁcation 29 use of mordants in 163, 175 commodities 267 use of printing rollers in 181 exchanged for slaves 190 use of wax in 100, 177 global 13, 134, 149, 298 use of wooden blocks in 181 imported into Europe 113 value-added of 227 Compagnie de Guinee´ 138

397 / Index

Compagnie de la Chine 92; see also East in Jamaica 191 Indian companies, French and land use 43 Compagnie du Sen´ egal´ 138 localisation of 43 competition 6 in Louisiana 207 competitiveness 33 in the Mediterranean 39 connections 8, 151 in Mississippi 205 Constantinople 23 in Mongolia 40 consumer goods 295 and role of labour 193 consumer markets 93 size of 207 Javanese 98 in Songjiang 42 Malay 98 in South Carolina 191, 193, 195, 204 consumer preferences 109 spread of 39–41, 153 consumers 6, 19, 110, 118 in sub-Saharan Africa 40 African 139 and taxation 41 British 100 in Tennessee 205 European 99, 108, 151, 176 in the United States 206, 207, 257–9, 345 French 170 in Virginia 191 West African 90 in the West Indies 194, 253, 255, 256, consumption 12, 292 343, 345 convergence 293, 369 cotton famine 267 Cooper, Frederick 141 cotton ﬁbres 1, 7, 15, 33, 34, 35, 363 copperware 23 agronomical knowledge of 83 copyright 353 in ancient Rome 39 Coromandel coast 20, 27, 28, 43, 46, 63, bowing of 50, 51, 52 102, 104, 108, 139, 149, 164, 217, in China 44 273 cleaning of 77 cotton bolls 37, 76 cost of transport of 258, 261 cotton cultivation 10, 11, 37, 57, 189 demand for in Africa 256 in Britain 194–5 agrarian system of 41–2 in China 260 agronomical knowledge of 37–8, 50, ecological potential of 239 192–4 elasticity of supply of 253 in Anatolia 43 in Europe 37 in Ancient India 39 in Japan 37 in the Bahamas 191 packing of 199, 258, 261 in Barbados 191 for padding 35 in Bermuda 193 price of 188, 253–4, 360, 368 in Brazil 256–7, 360 quality of 264 in central Asia 40 supplies of 188, 240, 264 in China 39, 40, 42–3, 44–6 from the Americas 243 climatic conditions for 58, 303 competition in 254, 255–6 expansion of 44, 205 to Spain 255 extensive 42 trade of 44, 45, 46, 48, 267 in Egypt 361 from Barbados 200 and harvest failure 343 from Brazil 191 and household production 42, to Britain 257 310 to France 255, 256 in India 42, 43, 259–62 from Jamaica 200 intensive 42 from St Domingue 200, 202 in the Islamic World 39 from the United States 208, 259

398 / Index

cotton ﬁbres (cont.) division of labour in 77, 312 varieties of in Europe 73–5, 216–17 Gossypium arboreum 39, 41, 303 ﬁxed capital in 68 Gossypium barbadense 258 in France 124, 235–6 Gossypium herbaceum 41, 303, 304 and gender 68, 228, 229 Gossypium hirsutum 205, 258, 303 in Germany 73, 225 long staple 205 as a global industry 5, 266 New World 303 in India 21–2, 61, 65, 76–7, 160–2, 211, Old World 303 275 Sea Island 258 commercialisation of 63 Upland 258, 261 comparative advantages of 59, 75, 80–2 in West Africa 190 competitiveness of 275 winding of 61 recovery of 278 cotton ginning 50, 76, 77, 197 in Italy 73, 74, 235 use of Whitney’s machine 204, 205, 247, labour in 68, 215, 220, 223, 275 261 in Latin America 285 cotton plant 192, 196 in the Ottoman Empire 70–2, 75 cotton plantations 206, 208 in Portugal 235 in Africa 190 productivity in 75, 76, 215, 224, 276, 314 in the Americas 254 in China 76 in the Bahamas 203 in India 76, 315 in the Caribbean 201 quality of 156, 225–6 in Suriname 200 relocation of 88 in the United States 200–2, 203–9 role of intermediaries introduction of 203 in 63, 66 productivity of 258 role of merchants in 63, 66, 67, 79 quantities produced 203 role of the state in 235–6 in the West Indies 195, 202–3 in Russia 283 cotton revolution 7, 15 in Spain 73, 74, 234–5, 255 cotton seeds 193 specialisation of 66 Cotton Supply Reporter (journal) 261 and standardisation of cotton system 33, 43, 137 production 229 new 289–92 in Switzerland 73, 74, 123, 225 old 289–92 in the United States 283 cotton textile manufacturing 7, 15, 20, 21 cotton textile mills 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, in Brazil 286 233, 266, 285 in Britain 74, 124, 149, 150, 212–14, cotton textiles 228, 240, 251–2, 275 British 123, 133, 212, 268, 270, 278, 280, centralisation of production 216 282 in China 45, 68–70, 75–7, 219–21, 286 in China 280 commercialisation of 68 in India 280 household system of in Japan 280, 282 production 69 in China 35 role of taxation 68 and cleanliness 146 commercialisation of 67 and colour 17, 113 comparison of 71, 78 consumption of 29, 30 concentration of 66 in Africa 135 condition of workers in 228 in India 30–3 cost of 223 in North America 146–7 in the countryside 216, 219, 221 as currency 34

399 / Index

customisation of 99–100 gingham 138, 139 design of 17, 18, 133 Guinea cloth 30, 90, 92, 138, 139, 149, in Europe 238 154, 155, 222 failure of 98–9 Indiennes 34, 116, 154, 155, 156 and frauds 87 Manchester cottons 152, 153 for furnishing 147 muslin 211, 225, 280 as a global product 265 nankeens 152 and health 146 patola 27, 279 imitations of 26 pintadoes 31, 98 Indian; see Indian cotton textiles salampuris 76, 150 in Indonesia 27 siamoise 158 learning about 86 striped cloth 23, 129 lengths of 87 toiles 116, 154, 155, 179 meanings of 27, 29 washing of 114 merchandising of 99 cotton tree 37 opposition to 248, 251 cotton yarn 77, 144, 225 prices of 114, 124, 133, 214 British 270 printed 20 count of 282 quality of 34, 87, 124 French 225 in Southeast Asia 34 price of 227, 270 substitution of 147 Turkish 277 trade of 1, 15, 17–19, 23–5, 267, 268 counterfactual history 240 to Africa 27, 137–9, 153–4 cotton cultivation in Britain 246–8 British 152–4, 269 cotton cultivation in Europe 247–8 to China 26 linen for cotton 244–6 to eastern Europe 72 wool for cotton 240–4 in the Indian Ocean 23 Coxe, Tench 260 knowledge of 88 craftsmanship 160 to Latin America 142–4, 268 craftsmen 179 to North America 144–6 Indian 165, 217, 223, 232 to Southeast Asia 29, 279 Crete 189 to Syria 270 Crosby, Alfred 190 to Turkey 271 Cuddalore 275 to West Africa 149 Curtin, Philip 190 to the West Indies 142 Cyprus 49, 72, 189 to western Europe 72 varieties 20, 29, 30, 33, 56, 69, 72, 97, Dale, Stephen 26 101, 115, 127, 138, 142, 145, 150, Darby, Thomas 194 170, 222, 225, 303, 312, 319 Deccan 46 annabasses 152, 154 Defoe, Daniel 118, 121, 127, 249, baftas 20, 98, 223 250 batik 98 deforestation 207 bombazines 74 Degas, Edgar 264 calico 22, 26, 32, 34, 98, 99, 107, 112, deindustrialisation 271 116, 127, 153 and Asia 290 checks 152, 154, 156 and declinism 273 chintzes 22, 26, 34, 72, 80, 97, 98, 113, in India 273–5 132, 133, 138, 153, 270 in the Ottoman Empire 273, 277 fustians 35, 110, 115, 152, 155, 225, demography 242 226, 324 Deng, Kent 314

400 / Index

design 17, 18, 80, 115, 231, 234, 290 cochineal 340 Chinese 126 indigo 27, 61, 100, 153, 176, 177, 192, Japanese 126 204, 261 textile 139, 160, 181 for ‘English blue’ 177, 178 Dhaka 61 use in Britain 176 dhotis 22 use in France 176 divergence 3, 4–5, 8–9, 10, 13, 85, 275, 289, knowledge of 80 292, 293, 297 madder 178 Diyarbekir´ 72, 170 Dominica 200, 202 Eckhout, Albert 135, 136 Downton, Nicholas 31 ecologic imperialism 190, 197 dress 27, 29, 32, 73, 115, 121, 126–7, 139, economic growth 2, 4, 6, 222, 285 144, 212, 367 Smithian 67, 219, 246 aprons 146 economic history 5, 12–13 baju (jacket) 27, 28 economy banyans (men’s gowns) 126, 145 inorganic 222 capes 133, 134 organic 221 children’s 111, 118 Egypt 17, 71 cloaks 312 East India companies 6, 89, 91–2, 98, 112, European style of 281 117, 137, 148, 273 foulards 200 commercial correspondence of 93, 100 Frisian 133 Danish 91, 92 gowns 117, 119, 123, 126, 130 Dutch (VOC) 29, 91, 93, 97, 98, 106, jackets 102, 144 108, 125, 167, 175 jeans 1, 288 English 91, 96, 98, 99, 100, 106, 107, patka (sash) 22 108, 113, 119, 138, 181 petticoats 146 French 91, 92, 96, 102, 104, 106, 107, Provenc¸al 133 119, 121, 167 robes de chambre 126, 128; see also dress, Swedish 91 banyans trade by 93, 95 second-hand 114 in textiles 92, 93–7 shawls 271 use of textile samples by 100 shifts 98 Eltis, David 141, 329, 341, 357 shirts 98, 129, 142 Elvin, Mark 221, 292 stockings 273 embroidery 162, 335 stomachers 129 Engerman, Stanley L. 195 T-shirts 1 England 2, 3, 4; see also Britain turbans 21, 26, 33, 280 English Royal African Company 138, waistcoats 22 190 waist sashes 22 Ethiopia 23 Du Fay, Charles-Franc¸ois de Cisternay 167, Eurasia 15 182 Eurocentrism 11 Dublin 179 Europe 1, 4, 10, 35, 77, 86 DuPlessis, Robert 146, 147, 331 northwestern 10 Dutch West Indies Company 138 Europe’s Asian Centuries Project 297 duties and tariffs 123, 274 dyeing 61; see also calico printing Farnie, Douglas 267 dyers 233 Faroqhi, Suraiya 72, 75 dyes 80, 277, 278 fashion 10, 29, 130, 132, 134 and Turkey red 175, 178 and cotton textiles 132–3

401 / Index

Fazackerly, William 152 Guinea Company 138 Ferguson, Niall 293 Gujarat 17, 18, 20, 23, 28, 30, 43, 61, 62, Findlay, Jeffrey G. 328 80, 99, 101, 137, 260 fiscal-military state 268 gum 141 Flachat, Jean-Claude 178 gumashtas 64 Flanders 49, 142 Guy, John 18 flax 245, 356 in Ireland 246 Habib, Irfan 50, 55 input of labour in 245 Hainan 41 manufacturing of 245 Hall, Kenneth 34, 35, 300 Floris, Peter 98 handkerchiefs 22, 26, 129, 146, 154, 155, flying shuttle 211 225 Fogel, Robert W. 195, 258 Hargreaves, James 211 foodstuff 30, 272 Harley, Knick 227 Forestier, François 172 Haussmann, Jean-Michel 172 Fort St George 138 Heber, Reginald 270 Foundling Hospital, London 110, 116, Hellot, Jean 182 132 hemp 35; see also flax France 49, 121 Hibbert, Thomas 152 free trade 365 Hill, Peter 363 Fujian 41, 45 historiography 12, 273 Fujita, Kayoko 366 Hogendorn, Jan S. 198 furnishings 31; see also soft furnishings Holker, John 133, 152, 154, 179, 183, fustians; see cotton textiles varieties 235 Holland 121, 142, 172 Gemery, Henry A. 198 Homestead Settlement Act 243 Geneva 116, 172 Hooke, Robert 182 Genoa 48, 100, 105, 170 Hoskins, Thomas 106 ghost acreages; see land, ghost household production 198 acreages Hove, Pantaleon 260 ginning; see cotton ginning Huang, Philip 220 Global Economic History Hudson, Pat 252 Network 12 Hugli 91 global history 3, 11, 12–13, 214 Hungary 72 global markets 278 global system 5, 7, 15, 25, 137, 291 Ibn Battuta 312 centrifugal 5, 6, 7 ikat 27, 80 centripetal 7, 186, 265, 271, 284, imperialism 186, 274 287 import substitution 33–5, 123–4, 150 globalisation 1, 8, 10, 13, 137, 141, 151, Inalcık,˙ Halil 277 274, 282, 283, 296, 297, 328 India 1, 4, 5, 8, 10, 11, 15, 22, 25, 75, gold 138 77 Gold Coast of Africa 34, 138 economic decline 12 Graham, Maria 270 Indian cotton textiles great divergence; see divergence colour of 99 Gross Domestic Product (GDP) 8, 9 competitiveness of 116 of China 8 counterfeits of 121 of Europe 8 cultural value of 116 Guangdong 42, 45 customisation of 98–102 Guangxu 69 design of 98

402 / Index

Indian cotton textiles (cont.) inventories 115, 144 durability of 116 inventors 211 exoticism of 112, 133 Iran 170 familiarisation to 112 Islam 41, 52, 58 hybridity of 133 Istanbul 169 imitations of 112, 131, 163 Italy 49, 73 measurements of 100, 105, 106 ivory 34, 138 opposition to 117–19 in England 119 jajman¯ ı¯ system 62–4 in France 119 Jamaica 146, 152 in Spain 119 Jambi 29 popularity of 112, 113 Japan 11, 30, 35, 50 price of 107, 108, 113, 116 Java 20, 22, 34, 281 prohibition of 121–3 Jennings, Lawrence C. 329 in England 121, 125–6 jewellery 33 in France 121–3, 126 Jiangnan 42, 44, 69 quality of 95, 98, 105–6, 107 Johnson, Marion 141 substitutes for 123 Jones, Eric 9 trade by Europeans of 148–50 Jones, Owen 278 uses of 35 Jouy-en-Josas 160, 175 for decoration 126 Julfa 170 as furnishings 121, 129; see also soft furnishings Kabir (weaver-saint) 59, 60 Indian Ocean 6, 10, 17, 19, 20, 25 Kay, John 211 indigo; see dyes, indigo Kipling, Rudyard 59 indigo plantations 176 Knight, Fred 193 industrial development 162 Knoop, Ludwig 284 industrial enlightenment 223 knowledge 7 industrial revolution 2, 3, 151, 185, 211, of consumer markets 93 214–16, 236 of textile production 109 and energy 242 useful and reliable 162, 167, 224 explanation of 5 Korea 294 in Britain 237 Kriger, Colleen 52, 141 nature of 4 Kuhn, Dietmar 52, 221, 307 and organisation of production 216 industrial societies 2 labour 11 industrialisation 3, 293 cost of 33 in China 294 indentured 198 in Europe 266, 292 specialisation of 197 in India 294 lacquerware 89, 164 in Japan 294 Lahore 59, 61 labour-intensive 285 Lancashire 3, 75, 112, 147, 152, 153, 154, industrious revolution 219, 220, 246 228, 240 inequality 2, 283 land 242 Inikori, Joseph 34, 141, 329, 331 ghost acreages of 9, 244, 356 innovation 7, 113 Landes, David S. 9 product 114 Legout de Flaix, Alexandre 149, 164, 200 technological 7, 295 Leiden 74, 125 insurance services 272 Lemire, Beverly 18, 114, 115 inventions 223, 354 Levant 35

403 / Index

Levant Company 270 Masulipatam 20, 29, 44, 108 Levi’s 288 material culture 11, 13, 17, 110 linen 115, 116, 138, 157, 217 Matheson, John 280 imported into Britain 249–50 Maxwell, Robyn 301 prices of 114, 250 McKinnen, Daniel 203 linen manufacturing 246 McNeill, William 11 in Britain 249 mechanisation 2 in the countryside 251 Melaka 20, 23, 25 and the employment of the poor 251 Melvin, Thomas 153 in Europe 250 Mendels, Franklin 64–5 in France 249 Mercantilism 117, 124 in Ireland 246, 250 merchandising 278 in Scotland 246, 250 merchant communities 21, 23 Liverpool 152, 153 Armenian 23, 170 living standards 223 Gujarati 25, 27 London 119, 172 Hindu 25 looms 66, 163 Jewish 23 backstrap 55–6 muslin 25 horizontal 229 merchant networks 145 Jacquard 225 merchant-capitalists 65 loin 55 merchants power 284, 368 British 148 treadle 56 European 23, 67, 87, 89, 135; see also vertical 55, 56 East India companies Lorient 113 French 139 luxuries 117 Genoese 35, 73 Venetian 35, 73 Macquer, Pierre-Joseph 182 Metropolitan Museum, New MacWilliam, John 236 York 332 Maddison, Angus 8 Mexico 142 Madhya Pradesh 21 Mexico City 144 Madras 43, 67, 98 mezzari 105 Malabar coast 20, 80 Milan 73 Malanima, Paolo 242 Milne, James 236 Malay peninsula 34 Milne, John 236 Maldives 20 miniatures 30 Manchester 156, 228, 274, 332, 334 Miranda Fraga, Manoel de 144 Manchester Act 125 Mississippi 205, 258 Mandeville, John 37, 38 modernity 292 Manila 91 Mokyr, Joel 9, 162, 183, 223 Manisa 70, 72 Mombasa 90 Mann, Julia de Lacy 3 monopolies 117 markets Montaran, Jacques Marie-Jerome´ Michau Asian 270 de 217 Atlantic 269 Montgomery, Florence 156 global 7 Moore, Francis 187 Marseille 123, 124, 170, 172, 178 mordants 176 Marshall, William 251 Moreau, Jacob Nicolas 133 Martinique 217 Morellet, Andre´ 133 Marx, Karl 195, 229, 273, 283 Moyano de Aguilar, Juan 144

404 / Index

Mozambique 20, 90 Pileur d’Apligny, Placide-Auguste le 182 Mukherjee, Rudrangshu 273 Pinckney, Elizabeth Lucas 204 Mukhlis, Anand Ram 165 Pires, Tome´ 25 mulberry tree 124 plantation system 42, 141, 187, 188, 209; Mulhouse 172 see also cotton plantations Musee´ de l’Impression sur Etoffes´ 353 Pollard, Sydney 67 Mysore 43 polycentrism 282 Pomeranz, Kenneth 4, 8, 9, 283, 350, nakedness 139 357 Nantes 152, 154 Pondicherry 167 Napoleon Bonaparte 256 porcelain 23, 25, 89 Napoleonic wars 268 Portugal 189, 236 National Museum, Copenhagen 135 Potosı´ 190 Navy 268 Pradesh 20 Needham, Joseph 52 Prakash, Om 63, 273, 316 Neuchatelˆ 172, 173 printers; see calico printers New Orleans 209, 264, 265 printing 179, 339 Newberry,P.E.17 privileges 117 Nigeria 138 productivity 292 Nımesˆ 217 projectors 217 North Carolina 258 property rights 234, 284, 290 North, Douglas 195, 258 protectionism 124 Norwich 114 proto-industrialisation 7, 64, 69, 219, 246, novelties 114 349 Pulicat 20, 99, 200 Oberkampf, Christophe-Philippe 125, 160, Punjab 20 161, 172, 173, 181 Purry, Peter 193 obrajes 142 putting-out system 69; see also Old Fustat 17, 18 proto-industrialisation Olmsted, Frederick Law 258 opium 271 Quebec 146 Orange (City) 173 O’Rourke, Kevin H. 328 Ramaswami, Vijaya 307 Ottoman Empire 11, 72, 75, 169, 271, 277 ramie 35, 41 Ovington, John 160 raw cotton; see cotton ﬁbres Red Sea 17, 20, 27 Paciﬁc Ocean 142, 266 re-export substitution 147, 150 palampores 17, 100, 104, 126, 127 Reid, Anthony 35 Pamuk, S¸evket 277 Rennes 121, 154 Parthasarathi, Prasannan 7, 9, 42, 156–7, rice 204 225, 309 Richards, John 190 Paul, Lewis 152, 211 Richelieu, Marechal´ de 131, 158, 171 peasant households 70 Rome 172 peddlers 114 Roques, Georges 167 pepper 25 Rosbotham, Dorning 226 Pepys, Samuel 126, 327 Rosenthal, Jean-Laurent 347 Perez,´ Liliane Hilaire 349 Rouen 131, 147, 154, 156, 158, 172, 179, Perlin, Frank 66 223 Persia 20, 22 Roxburgh, William 260 Philippines 20, 30, 34 Roy, Tirthankar 184, 275

405 / Index

Royal Society (London) 164, 182 quilts 35, 99 Russell, Edmund 351 tablecloths 22 Russia 244 tapestries 126 Ryhiner, Jean 168, 179, 336 Solar, Peter 357 Solow, Barbara 195 salt 68 Songjiang 42, 75 Samarqand 34, 40 Sonnerat, Pierre 229 sandalwood 25 South Asia 5, 15; see also India Sandbrook, Jeremy 106 Southeast Asia 1, 25, 35, 137 Sandbrook, Samuel 107 Spain 115, 189 Sangar, Satya Prakash 319 spices 25, 30 Sao˜ Jorge da Mina 90 spindle whorls 50 sappanwood 175 spinners 66, 157, 219 saris 22 in India 66 Satgaon 91 spinning 7, 49, 53, 56, 69, 71, 73, 76, 77, Schiebinger, Londa 193 143, 203, 216, 218, 229, 272 Scott, Helenus 164 hand 52, 308 Seville 115, 142 in South India 52–4 Shaffer, Linda 39 and the spinning jenny 211, 212, 235 sheep 240–1 and spinning machines 211, 221, in Australia 243 227 in Britain 240–1, 252 Arkwright’s water frame 54, 226, 256, in North America 242–3 360 Sherwin, William 172 the ‘mule’ 236, 256 shipping 272 three-spindle wheel 220 Sierra Leone 140 and the spinning wheel 52, 53, 54, 55 silk 25, 41, 68, 114, 118, 123, 124, 142, St Domingue 217, 255 261, 266, 318 St Thomas 191 silk manufacturing 125 steel 271 Silk Roads 26, 40, 41, 58 Streiff, Johann Heinrich 172 Silliman, Benjamin 228 Styles, John 114, 115, 126, 322, 333 silver 89, 91, 117, 190, 290 Subrahmanyam, Sanjay 273 Sindh 137 Subramanian, Lakshmi 67, 273, 309 Sironj 21, 170 sugar 188, 192 slave trade 157, 190 cultivation of 190, 194 slavery 135, 147, 207–8, 345 Sulawasi Islands 18, 19, 34, 41 in the Americas 195–8 Sumatra 20, 27, 28, 275 in Maryland 207 Surat 92, 106, 160, 318 in Mississippi 207 Swadeshi movement 278 payback period of 198 Sykes, Henry 236 in Virginia 207 Syria 70, 73 smuggling 112 social hierarchies 117 Tagara (Ter) 20 Society of Arts and Manufactures (London) Taiwan 30 349 Tamil Nadu 20, 22 soft furnishings Tapi Collection 299 bed covers 22 taste 6, 86, 133, 278, 293 coverlets 90, 91 Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste 22, 87 curtains 154 taxation 2, 41, 68, 117 pillow cases 22 Taylor, John 270

406 / Index

Tchel´ ebi,´ Evliya 169 trade 6, 19, 294 tea 68, 89, 271 to Africa 137, 138, 141–2, 152 technological innovation 212, 214, 223 to the Americas 148 and open technique 178 Atlantic 89, 157 technologies 10, 15, 221, 282, 292 between Asia and Europe 89 telegraphy 283 British 138 textile and clothing sector 294 colonial 268 textile fibres; see cotton fibre; wool; silk; ‘diamond-shape’ 148 hemp European 6 global trade of 266 global 85 synthetic 295 in the Indian Ocean 17–19 textile finishing 59, 80; see also calico intra-Asian 137 printing land and sea 23–5 textile machinery 266 nodes of 6, 25 export of 284 triangular 141, 159 textile manufacturing; see cotton textile to the West Indies 148 manufacturing traders; see merchants in India and Europe 64–8, 217 Tramquebar 92 textile production transport 283 global 266 tree of life 100 quality of 340 Trinidad 201 textile spheres 162 turbans; see dress, turbans textiles; see also cotton textiles Turkey 70, 71, 270; see also Ottoman as currency 29, 34 Empire imported to Europe 94 Indian 17, 139 Ulm 73 political economy of 248 Urquhart, David 271 price of 302 Uttar Pradesh 43 shift to lighter 114 technologies 49 Valle-Arizpe, Artemio de 144 uses of 29 Van Linschoten, John Huyghen 20 varieties; see also cotton textiles varieties Varadarajan, Lotika 29 blankets 97 Venice 48, 49, 72, 189, 314 cambricks 116 Victoria and Albert Museum, London 18 canvas 115 Vries, Jan de 215, 219, 246, 348 dimities 153 kerseys 115 Wadsworth, Alfred P. 3 lawns 116 Wallerstein, Immanuel 8, 10 new draperies 114 Washbrook, David 222 perpetuana 139 Watson, John Forbes 278, 366 russets 115 Watson, Thomas 173 sailcloth 72, 73 Wayne, John 295 in West Africa 34 weavers 33, 46, 57, 64, 66, 230, 272, 365 Thailand 30 in India 62, 66, 106, 119, 310 Thessaly 71, 72, 76, 77 weaving 7, 49, 53, 61, 69, 71, 79, 162 Thomson, James 255 handloom 278 tie-dyeing 165, 279 technologies 55, 235 tobacco 153, 204 villages in India 62–4, 66–7, 102, 104, Touchet, Samuel 152, 157 107 Tournefort, Pitton de 82 Weber, Max 9

407 / Index

Wedgwood, Josiah 181 woollen manufacturing 65, 73, 125, 238, Wendt, Ian 75 242 West, the in Britain 248–9, 252–3 and ‘the Rest’ 8, 265, 293 decline of 252 rise of 8, 275 in France 249 West Africa 34, 187 woollen textiles 23, 35, 114, 116, 118, 123, West Indies 146, 148, 191 139, 146 Wetter (calico printers) 174, 178 in Europe 23, 162 Whitney, Eli 204 trade of 248 Wight, Robert 261 world economy 8 Williams, Eric 147 world-system 10 Williams, Richard 183 Wright, Gavin 195 Williamson, Jeffrey 277, 365 Wyatt, John 152, 211 Wong, Roy Bin 220, 347 wool 216, 251, 252, 266 Young, George Frederick 259 energy intensity of 242 Yunnan 41, 44 supplies of 241 from Australia 243, 253 Zanzibar 20 from Spain 253 Zeller, Johann 179