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© in This Web Service Cambridge University Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information Index Textiles and garments frequently found in Atlantic dress regimes are noted only when first mentioned and/or defined. Abenaki alamode, 96, 118 dress adornment among, 49 alapeen. See alpine acculturation Algonquin attempts at, 89 dress adornment among, 110, 266 pressures for, 85 alpine, 69 adornment, 46 Amerindians absence of, 87, 131 and peddlers, 77 among Amerindians, 48, 95, 97, change in dress of, 52, 99, 100–1, 108, 98, 104, 109, 114, 120, 121, 114, 122, 123, 124 263, 266 clothing gifted to, 118 among Europeans, 31 comparison with European dress, among Khoikhoi, 226 114–16, 118, 121 among Tainos, 255 comparison with slave dress, 162 among Tupinambá, 41 comparisons with European dress, 118 Atlantic African, 36, 37, 39, 40, 236 corporeal adornment of, 110, 114, corporeal, 7, 41, 49, 84, 89 120, 121 European attitudes about corporeal, 26 dress and gender among, 94 non-corporeal, 24, 27, 43, 114 dress diversity among, 48–49, 121, of Carib dress, 226 122, 123 of free settler dress, 180, 203, 205, 222 dress gifted to, 92–94, 106, 118 of free women of color, 188, 189, dress regimes among Christian converts, 190, 203 101–2, 106, 108, 121 of indentured servants, 150 dress regimes at contact, 46–50 of slave dress, 152, 153, 156, 158 dress syncretism among, 101, 102, 105, advertisements 113, 121, 123 and textile retailing, 71, 73, 74, 174 fashion among, 115, 118, 124 as sources for dress, 12, 137, 140, 149 gender and dress among, 115, 116 for fashionable clothing and textiles, 174 gifting to, 53, 79 for runaway servants and slaves, 125, 223 non-corporeal adornment of, 111, 114 affranchis, 187, 282, 283, See also free persistence of dress among, 105, 114 people of color textile trade with, 4, 52, 53, 253 © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 333 / Index Angola, 58, See also west Central Africa baize, 2, 69 dress in, 236 banyan, 175, 177, 228 dress of mixed-race people in, 233 as Atlantic fashion, 230 peddling in, 77 in Cape Colony, 198 retailing in, 75 in Jamaica, 281, See also dressing gown textile preferences in, 62, 64, 65, in lower Louisiana, 212 68, 236 in New France, 216, 217 textile stocks in, 61, 66, 67, 292 in Pennsylvania, 216 trade with, 58 in Río de la Plata, 206 annabasse, 62, 68 in Saint-Domingue, 171 Antilles. See West Indies in Salvador da Bahia, 172 apparel. See clothing in South Carolina, 211 appropriation, 17, See also consumption barbarism. See savagery cross-cultural, 228, 230 bark cloth, 35 aprons, 44 barragán, 207 Argentina. See Río de la Plata barratine, 216 Ashanti, See also Gold Coast Basire, Isaac, 82 kente cloth manufacture by, 239 Amerindian dress in engraving by, 83 assortiment, 159 batiste, 64 Atlantic world bayeta de la tierra, 207 and empire, 17 Benin and globalization, 16–17 textiles of, 62 characteristics of markets bertanha, 1 within, 238 blanket critiques of, 16 worn as garment, 92, 97, 102 definition of, 7, 16 bodice, 31 development of, 7 Bolzius, Johann Martin effects of unequal distribution of description of slave dress by, 152, benefits within, 243 272, 274 effects on textile manufacturing, on cost of indentured servant 238–43 dress, 149 merchant networks within, 17 bombazine, 200 textile trade within, 7–8 Bonsall, James textile trends within, 68, 69, 238 clothing trade with Amerindians, 95 Atwood, Thomas textile trade with Amerindians, 95 description of dress of free women of textiles sold to free settlers, 221 color by, 188 boots auctions, 78–79, See also retailing among Amerindians, 108, 265 and clothing, 78 borstrok, 198 and textiles, 78 changing popularity of, 201, 202 institutionalized, 78, 260 bouracan, 216 probate, 78 Brandes, Jan reactions to, 79 depiction of Khoikhoi dress by, 226 Axtell, James branding. See slaves, branding of and first consumer revolution, 123 Brazil dress of free women of color in, 193 baaij. See baize indigenous dress regimes in, 41–43, baatje, 146 85–88 bafts, 62, 65, 68 peddling in, 77 © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 334 / Index Brazil (cont.) cadis, 215, 218 plantation laborers’ dress in, 147 calamande, 97, 184, See also calimanco slave dress in, 132, 140, 222 and calico, 242 sumptuary laws in, 156, 193 calcões. See breeches breechclout, 47, See also loincloth Caldwell, Sir John European attitudes to, 106 syncretic dress of, 228 persistence of among Amerindians, 120 calico, 58, 66, 69 breeches, 32 calimanco, See also calamande Amerindian ambivalence to, 106, 120, and calico, 242 121, 265 cambric, 2, 78 leather, 146, 199, 287 camellón, 208 patterns, 117 camisa. See shirt rhingrave, 258 camisole, See shirt velvet, 152, 177, 181, 183, 184, 192, camisool 196, 203, 208, 215, 223, 224, 283 changing popularity of, 202, 231 wide, 177, 178 camlet, 2 women’s, 199 Canada, See New France Breen, Timothy Canadians and anglicization, 230 definitions of, 120, 268 on dress in portraits, 13 dress of, 289 bretaña, 64 canda, 235, 236 brilhante, 176 See also furs and skins, as brin, See also linens, hempen clothing in planters’ dress, 182 candale, 276 in slave dress, 143, 160 canelões, See taffeta britannia, 172 canvas, 59 broadcloth, 63, 64, 66, 69 canvis. See canvas brocades, 63 cap brocato, 207 tapabord, 265 broeken, 146 capa, 172 Brunias, Agostino Cape Coast Castle, See also Gold Coast as source for retailing, 75 textile preferences in, 62, 64, 68, 69 as source for West Indies dress, 13 textile stocks in, 61, 66, 67, 292 depiction of Carib dress by, 226 Cape Colony dress of free people of color depicted by, access to textiles in, 70 188–90 comparison of urban and rural free slave dress depicted by, 151, 157, 156 settler dress, 199, 201 Buenos Aires, See also Río de la Plata dress of free people of color in, 203 shops in, 73 dress of rural free settler women smuggled goods in, 78, 204 in, 197 smuggling to, 58 early development and dress differences textile preferences in, 63, 64 in, 200 textile stocks in, 61, 205 early free settler dress regimes in, 198 Burnard, Trevor economic development and dress and clothing theft by slaves, 136 differences in, 199–202 and colonial emulation of metropolitan fashion change in, 201 norms, 195 sumptuary laws in, 156, 270, 277 Buys, Cornelis textile preferences in, 69, 241 depictions of eighteenth-century Dutch textile stocks in, 67, 69, 200 dress, 232 wardrobe size in, 201 © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 335 / Index Cape of Good Hope, See also Cape Colony check, 9, 68, 69, 175 indigenous dress regimes in, 43–46 differential use of in clothing, 211 Cape Town, See also Cape Colony chemise, 32, 92 as consumption center of Cape Colony, Cherokee 200, 201, 285 changes in dress of, 98 early free settler dress regimes in, 198 clothing and textile trade with, 98 retail shops in, 74 corporeal adornment among, 111 slave dress in, 132, 133 dress gifted to, 93, 263, 264 textile preferences in, 63, 64, 69 dress of, 107 textile stocks in, 61 embassy to England of, 82, 83, 268 Cape Verde Islands non-corporeal adornment among, 112 cotton and indigo plantations in, 239 redressing of, 82 cotton textiles of, 15, 58, 239 trade with, 53 capot Chester County, Pennsylvania among Amerindians, 94, 97, 114, 123 peddling in, 260 as characteristic New France garment, textile sales in, 222 218 Chicksaws definition of, See coat; outerwear fashion among, 99 urban–rural differences in wearing chintz, 68, 118 of, 218 Cholet capote, 172 handkerchief manufacture cappa, 234 in, 240 Caribbean. See West Indies chupa, 208, 231 carquant, 276 civility, See also civilization casaca, 231 markers of, 11, 32, 233 casaque, 269, See also outerwear civilization, See also civility casaquin, 153, 217, 233 and dress, 88 Catawba cleanliness, 115 dress gifted to, 264 among slaves, 159 Cavazzi da Montecuccolo, Giovanni European concern with, 32 Antonio on Gold Coast, 37 as source for west Central African cloak, 92 dress, 253 cloth on African elite taste for European English exports of, 4, 242, 243 textiles, 235 clothing ceroulas. See breeches Amerindian adoption of imported, 99 chaleco, 208 as wages, 70, 80, 95, 147, 150 Champlain, Samuel de colors of, 139, 148, 149, 281 description of Amerindian adornment, corporeal coverage by, 7, 36, 111, 266 39, 47 description of Amerindian dress, 256 definition of, 5 chapmen. See peddlers draped, 36, 47, 92, 114, 116, 122 Charles Town (Charleston), See also South English exports of, 4 Carolina expenditures for, 4, 211, 216, 221 textile stocks in, 61 gifted, 79 chartered companies, See also Compagnie homemade, 30, 132 des Indes; Verenigde Oost-Indische imported, 71 Compagnie; Royal African Company materials of, 7, 27 and textile retailing, 70 meanings of, 4–5 © in this web service Cambridge University Press www.cambridge.org Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic
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