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Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information Index Textiles and garments frequently found in Atlantic dress regimes are noted only when first mentioned and/or defined. Abenaki dress adornment among, 49 alamode, 96, 118 alapeen. See alpine <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">acculturation </li><li style="flex:1">Algonquin </li></ul>attempts at, 89 pressures for, 85 dress adornment among, 110, 266 alpine, 69 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">adornment, 46 </li><li style="flex:1">Amerindians </li></ul><ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">absence of, 87, 131 </li><li style="flex:1">and peddlers, 77 </li></ul>among Amerindians, 48, 95, 97, 98, 104, 109, 114, 120, 121, 263, 266 change in dress of, 52, 99, 100–1, 108, 114, 122, 123, 124 clothing gifted to, 118 among Europeans, 31 among Khoikhoi, 226 comparison with European dress, 114–16, 118, 121 among Tainos, 255 among Tupinambá, 41 comparison with slave dress, 162 comparisons with European dress, 118 corporeal adornment of, 110, 114, 120, 121 dress and gender among, 94 dress diversity among, 48–49, 121, 122, 123 Atlantic African, 36, 37, 39, 40, 236 corporeal, 7, 41, 49, 84, 89 European attitudes about corporeal, 26 non-corporeal, 24, 27, 43, 114 of Carib dress, 226 of free settler dress, 180, 203, 205, 222 of free women of color, 188, 189, 190, 203 dress gifted to, 92–94, 106, 118 dress regimes among Christian converts, 101–2, 106, 108, 121 of indentured servants, 150 of slave dress, 152, 153, 156, 158 advertisements dress regimes at contact, 46–50 dress syncretism among, 101, 102, 105, 113, 121, 123 and textile retailing, 71, 73, 74, 174 as sources for dress, 12, 137, 140, 149 for fashionable clothing and textiles, 174 for runaway servants and slaves, 125, 223 affranchis, 187, 282, 283, See also free people of color fashion among, 115, 118, 124 gender and dress among, 115, 116 gifting to, 53, 79 non-corporeal adornment of, 111, 114 persistence of dress among, 105, 114 textile trade with, 4, 52, 53, 253 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 333 / Index Angola, 58, See also west Central Africa dress in, 236 dress of mixed-race people in, 233 peddling in, 77 retailing in, 75 textile preferences in, 62, 64, 65, 68, 236 textile stocks in, 61, 66, 67, 292 trade with, 58 annabasse, 62, 68 Antilles. See West Indies apparel. See clothing appropriation, 17, See also consumption cross-cultural, 228, 230 aprons, 44 baize, 2, 69 banyan, 175, 177, 228 as Atlantic fashion, 230 in Cape Colony, 198 in Jamaica, 281, See also dressing gown in lower Louisiana, 212 in New France, 216, 217 in Pennsylvania, 216 in Río de la Plata, 206 in Saint-Domingue, 171 in Salvador da Bahia, 172 in South Carolina, 211 barbarism. See savagery bark cloth, 35 barragán, 207 Argentina. See Río de la Plata Ashanti, See also Gold Coast kente cloth manufacture by, 239 assortiment, 159 barratine, 216 Basire, Isaac, 82 Amerindian dress in engraving by, 83 batiste, 64 Atlantic world and empire, 17 bayeta de la tierra, 207 Benin and globalization, 16–17 characteristics of markets within, 238 textiles of, 62 bertanha, 1 blanket critiques of, 16 definition of, 7, 16 worn as garment, 92, 97, 102 bodice, 31 development of, 7 effects of unequal distribution of benefits within, 243 Bolzius, Johann Martin description of slave dress by, 152, 272, 274 effects on textile manufacturing, 238–43 on cost of indentured servant dress, 149 merchant networks within, 17 textile trade within, 7–8 textile trends within, 68, 69, 238 Atwood, Thomas description of dress of free women of color by, 188 bombazine, 200 Bonsall, James clothing trade with Amerindians, 95 textile trade with Amerindians, 95 textiles sold to free settlers, 221 boots auctions, 78–79, See also retailing and clothing, 78 among Amerindians, 108, 265 borstrok, 198 and textiles, 78 institutionalized, 78, 260 probate, 78 changing popularity of, 201, 202 bouracan, 216 Brandes, Jan reactions to, 79 Axtell, James and first consumer revolution, 123 depiction of Khoikhoi dress by, 226 branding. See slaves, branding of Brazil dress of free women of color in, 193 indigenous dress regimes in, 41–43, 85–88 baaij. See baize baatje, 146 peddling in, 77 bafts, 62, 65, 68 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 334 / Index Brazil (cont.) cadis, 215, 218 plantation laborers’ dress in, 147 slave dress in, 132, 140, 222 sumptuary laws in, 156, 193 breechclout, 47, See also loincloth European attitudes to, 106 calamande, 97, 184, See also calimanco and calico, 242 calcões. See breeches Caldwell, Sir John syncretic dress of, 228 persistence of among Amerindians, 120 calico, 58, 66, 69 breeches, 32 calimanco, See also calamande Amerindian ambivalence to, 106, 120, 121, 265 and calico, 242 cambric, 2, 78 leather, 146, 199, 287 patterns, 117 camellón, 208 camisa. See shirt <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">rhingrave, 258 </li><li style="flex:1">camisole, See shirt </li></ul>velvet, 152, 177, 181, 183, 184, 192, 196, 203, 208, 215, 223, 224, 283 wide, 177, 178 camisool changing popularity of, 202, 231 camlet, 2 women’s, 199 Breen, Timothy Canada, See New France Canadians and anglicization, 230 on dress in portraits, 13 bretaña, 64 definitions of, 120, 268 dress of, 289 canda, 235, 236 brilhante, 176 See also furs and skins, as clothing candale, 276 canelões, See taffeta canvas, 59 brin, See also linens, hempen in planters’ dress, 182 in slave dress, 143, 160 britannia, 172 broadcloth, 63, 64, 66, 69 brocades, 63 canvis. See canvas cap brocato, 207 tapabord, 265 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">broeken, 146 </li><li style="flex:1">capa, 172 </li></ul><ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">Brunias, Agostino </li><li style="flex:1">Cape Coast Castle, See also Gold Coast </li></ul>textile preferences in, 62, 64, 68, 69 textile stocks in, 61, 66, 67, 292 Cape Colony access to textiles in, 70 comparison of urban and rural free settler dress, 199, 201 dress of free people of color in, 203 dress of rural free settler women in, 197 as source for retailing, 75 as source for West Indies dress, 13 depiction of Carib dress by, 226 dress of free people of color depicted by, 188–90 slave dress depicted by, 151, 157, 156 Buenos Aires, See also Río de la Plata shops in, 73 smuggled goods in, 78, 204 smuggling to, 58 textile preferences in, 63, 64 textile stocks in, 61, 205 Burnard, Trevor and clothing theft by slaves, 136 and colonial emulation of metropolitan norms, 195 early development and dress differences in, 200 early free settler dress regimes in, 198 economic development and dress differences in, 199–202 fashion change in, 201 sumptuary laws in, 156, 270, 277 textile preferences in, 69, 241 textile stocks in, 67, 69, 200 wardrobe size in, 201 Buys, Cornelis depictions of eighteenth-century Dutch dress, 232 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 335 / Index Cape of Good Hope, See also Cape Colony check, 9, 68, 69, 175 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">indigenous dress regimes in, 43–46 </li><li style="flex:1">differential use of in clothing, 211 </li></ul><ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">Cape Town, See also Cape Colony </li><li style="flex:1">chemise, 32, 92 </li></ul>as consumption center of Cape Colony, Cherokee 200, 201, 285 changes in dress of, 98 early free settler dress regimes in, 198 retail shops in, 74 slave dress in, 132, 133 textile preferences in, 63, 64, 69 textile stocks in, 61 clothing and textile trade with, 98 corporeal adornment among, 111 dress gifted to, 93, 263, 264 dress of, 107 embassy to England of, 82, 83, 268 non-corporeal adornment among, 112 redressing of, 82 trade with, 53 Chester County, Pennsylvania peddling in, 260 Cape Verde Islands cotton and indigo plantations in, 239 cotton textiles of, 15, 58, 239 capot among Amerindians, 94, 97, 114, 123 as characteristic New France garment, 218 textile sales in, 222 Chicksaws definition of, See coat; outerwear urban–rural differences in wearing of, 218 fashion among, 99 chintz, 68, 118 Cholet capote, 172 cappa, 234 handkerchief manufacture in, 240 Caribbean. See West Indies carquant, 276 casaca, 231 casaque, 269, See also outerwear casaquin, 153, 217, 233 Catawba chupa, 208, 231 civility, See also civilization markers of, 11, 32, 233 civilization, See also civility and dress, 88 cleanliness, 115 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">dress gifted to, 264 </li><li style="flex:1">among slaves, 159 </li></ul>Cavazzi da Montecuccolo, Giovanni Antonio European concern with, 32 on Gold Coast, 37 as source for west Central African dress, 253 cloak, 92 cloth on African elite taste for European textiles, 235 English exports of, 4, 242, 243 clothing ceroulas. See breeches chaleco, 208 Champlain, Samuel de description of Amerindian adornment, 111, 266 Amerindian adoption of imported, 99 as wages, 70, 80, 95, 147, 150 colors of, 139, 148, 149, 281 corporeal coverage by, 7, 36, 39, 47 description of Amerindian dress, 256 chapmen. See peddlers Charles Town (Charleston), See also South Carolina definition of, 5 draped, 36, 47, 92, 114, 116, 122 English exports of, 4 expenditures for, 4, 211, 216, 221 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">gifted, 79 </li><li style="flex:1">textile stocks in, 61 </li></ul>chartered companies, See also Compagnie des Indes; Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; Royal African Company and textile retailing, 70 homemade, 30, 132 imported, 71 materials of, 7, 27 meanings of, 4–5 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 336 / Index clothing (cont.) migration of European artisans involved with, 230 consumer revolution, 17–18 among indigenous people and slaves, 227 non-markets transfers of, 79 patterns for, 230 ready-to-wear, 78, 92, 131, 150 retailing of, 71, 72 critiques of, 18 definition of, 17–18 consumerism definition of, 18 second-hand, 33, 60, 78, 79, 131 sexual services and, 136 shaped, 30, 84 consumption, 17–19 definition of, 17 involuntary, 127 slave manufacture of, 277 special-occasion, 89 tailored, 30, 71, 98, 116, 118, 131, 258 meanings of, 18–19 contraband, See smuggling conversation piece, 189 cordellate, 141 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">theft of, 136 </li><li style="flex:1">Córdoba </li></ul>urban–rural distinctions in, 199 coat, 32 woolens manufacture at, See woolens, Andean <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">Code Noir </li><li style="flex:1">cornetmuts, 199 </li></ul>and free people of color, 187 and slave dress, 131, 134, 272 and slave property, 269 and slave retailing, 259 coiffe See cap corps de jupe, 233 corset, 152 costume definition of, See clothing; dress coton, 97 colonial livery, 204 See also dress regimes, appropriate for “torrid zone” actual content of, 183, 184, 196 contemporaries’ definitions of, 194 colors cotonade, 66 cotonía, 208 cottons, 180 advantages of, 194 African, 35, 257 Amerindian preferences among, 91, 95, 109, 116, 117, 263, 266, 268 and gender, 289 and gender, 94, 182, 186, 192, 198, 202, 208, 211, 213, 221, 231, 282, 287 of Amerindian clothing, 95, 97, 101, 118, 120 and race, 193, 206, 284 and slave dress, 207 Andean, 205 changes in use of in clothing, 161, 175, 176, 178, 179, 206, 211, 212, 217, 220, 230, 231 differential use of in clothing, 114, 118, 140, 171, 172, 178, 181, 183, 184, 206, 213, 215, 218, 219, 221, 230, 280 differential use of in dress, 181, 182 English exports of, 243 English re-exports of, 243 European, 62, 63, 65, 240 fiber composition of, 62, 257 in clothing, 97 of Amerindian dress, 98 of Atlantic European clothing, 31, 232 of clothing, 118, 120, 138, 143, 272 of clothing of free people of color, 189, 191 of free settler clothing, 118, 168, 178, 181, 281, 289 of indentured servant clothing, 148, 149, 150 of slave clothing, 139, 146, 151, 153, 156, 158, 160 of textiles, 239 Compagnie des Indes and textile retailing, See chartered companies dress supply problems of, 134 Indian, 62, 63, 65, 75, 231, 241 manufacture at Jesuit missions, 88, 205 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 337 / Index manufacture on Brazilian plantations, 132, 258 manufacturing innovations in Europe, 241 dress of, 108 non-corporeal adornment among, 112 doublet, 32 dowlas, 59 merchant stocks of, 62, 65, 66, 68 relative prices of, 60, 267, 287, 289 restrictions on, 231, 240, 241 Spanish encouragement of consumption of, 207, See also Spain, textile policies in drap, 97, See also broadcloth drawers declining popularity of, 138 growing popularity of, 212, 230, 233 in Dutch peasant dress, 232 in indentured servant clothing allot- <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">ments, 131 </li><li style="flex:1">stamped, 78 </li></ul>trade of, 35, 70, 97, 117 coutil, 280, 281 couverte, 214 in slave dress, 141, 152 use of by “torrid zone” free settlers, 171, 172, 173, 177 côvado, 2 dress <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">crape, 216 </li><li style="flex:1">definition of, 5 </li></ul>crea, 205 credit consumer, 56, 73 European beliefs about, 24 meanings of, 5, 93, 270 sources, 8–14 merchant, 55 Cree sources about, 5, 27, 44 dress regimes fashion among, 100, 110 female tattooing among, 110 Creeks (Muscogulges) corporeal adornment among, 111 non-corporeal adornment among, 49, 112 among the Khoikhoi, 43–46 among the Tupinambá and Guaraní, 41–43 and class, 31, 232 and gender, 30, 31, 36, 39, 41, 44–46, 48, 49, 115, 116, 137, 155, 186, 193, 195, 202, 232 crées, 238 creolization sartorial, 20, 224 crês, 2 Cresswell, Nicholas description of Amerindian dress, 110, 112, 116 Croghan, George dress gifting by, 92 crudo, 205 and occupation, 28, 31, 39, 189, 192, 199, 202, 205, 209, 213, 214, 232 and race, 193, 195, 204, 233 and status, 28, 36–39, 40, 151, 155, 167, 204, 234 and wealth, 28, 31, 44, 183–86, 192, 202, 209, 212, 232, 237 appropriate for “torrid zone,” 167 Atlantic African, 233, 236, 237 Atlantic European, 27, 28–33 changes in, 138, 208, 211, 213, 215, 221, 222, 227, 231 culottes, 232 d’Asti, Bernardino Ignazio images of dress in Sogno, 233 damask, 9, 287 Christian converts and, 87, 88, 101, 233, 234, 237 Christianity and, 39 das, 199 colonial economic development and changes in, 200, 209, 220, 224, 226, 227 de Batz, Alexander images of Amerindian dress, 162, 266 Delaware, 102 comparisons among, 183, 184, 186, 193, 195, 209, 210, 212, 214, 215, 223, 227, 229, 232, 237, 288 clothing adornment of, 109, 113 corporeal adornment of, 110, 111 definition of, 264 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 338 / Index dress regimes (cont.) corporeal coverage in, 24, 27, 30, 40, 154, 168, 195 Du Tertre, Jean-Baptiste description of Saint-Domingue dress by, 164 definition of. See clothing; dress effects on textile manufacture, 20 European and free settler compared, 230, 231–33, 237 free settler female outfit, 168 free settler male outfit, 168 general attributes of, 27–28 in Eastern Woodlands of North America, 46–50, 237 description of Saint-Domingue women’s luxurious dress by, 165, 172 duffel, 64 and Amerindians, 94, 116 Dutch East Indies Company. See Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) Eckhout, Albert paintings of indigenous Brazilians by, 87 in New France, 197 in tropical Americas, 194–96 informal conventions of, 41, 159 innovation in, 32, 40, 49, 50, 51 interactions among, 27, 226, 229 later eighteenth-century transatlantic, 230 empire and textile stocks, See mercantilism England clothing in, 28 escarlatilla, 207 escarlatine, See stroud estameña, 207 metropolitanization of, 198, 208, 209, 229 non-woven, 40 estamine, 64 of agriculturists, 209, 213, 216, 223, 232 estemijn, See estamine estopa, 2 of Cape Colony free settlers, 198–204 of common people, 169, 213, 232 of free people of color, 186–94, 195 of indigenous people, 20, 229 of merchants, 168, 173, 195, 209, 213, 232 Et8et dress of, 99, 100 étoffe du pays, 219 fabrics. See textiles fashion of planters, 169, 170, 171, 178, 183, 195, 213 of slaves, 20, 229, 237 Amerindian, 99, 102, 115, 120, 121, 124 and gender, 198 semitropical North American free settler, 210–15 stability of, 50, 139, 211, 226, 233, 236 syncretic, 20, 101, 102, 124, 196, 210, 212, 228, 234, 237 temperate zone free settler, 197, 224 temperate zone North American free settler, 215–24 “torrid zone” compared, 178–79, 195 urban–rural differences in, 199, 209, 213, 217, 219, 220, 223, 231, 232, 288 and retailing, 71, 72 Atlantic, 20–21, 209, 211, 223, 230, 236, 240, 288 circulation of, 80, 99, 120, 179, 198, 199, 227, 229, 234, 235, 240 definition of, 18, 28, 268 democratization of, 84 effects on factory industrialization, 243 English, 164, 175 European–Amerindian comparison, 101, 114–16 free settler, 20, 229 woven, 28–40 dressing gown, 2 droguete, 1, 176 drugget, 219 French, 115 in advertisements, 174 in Cape Colony, 204 merchant, 181 <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>Cambridge University Press 978-1-107-10591-1 - The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800 Robert S. DuPlessis Index More information 339 / Index metropolitan, 71, 74, 172, 174, 181, 196, 204, 208, 224, 230 personal, 203 definition of, 285 population of, 202, 285 free people of color slave, 159 “torrid zone” 294, 173, 174, 176, 179, 183, 196 alleged female luxury of, 165 definitions of, 187, 282 discrimination against, 187, 194, 204, 286 feathers <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">as adornment, 43 </li><li style="flex:1">dress compared to free white settler </li></ul>dress, 192, 193, 194, 203 dress compared to slave dress, 188, 190, 191 in clothing, 43, 47, 49, 234 purported meaning in Cherokee culture, 261 ferrandine, 216 dress in images of, 277 fil d’épreuve. See linens, hempen flap. See breechclout female dress regimes of, 189, 191 in Brazil, 193 footgear absence of, 141 footwear in Cape Colony, 202–4 in Saint-Domingue, 187, 282 in Salvador da Bahia, 282 laws regarding, 187 male dress regimes of, 189, 191 occupations of, 187, 203 probate inventories of, 190, 203, 283 absence of among free people, 191 absence of among slaves, 131, 139, 146, 151, 154, 272 absence of in Atlantic Africa, 40 among Khoikhoi, 147 and gender, 31, 46, 203, 263 as status marker, 28, 36, 147, 148, 154, 189 representations of, 187, 188 sumptuary laws regarding dress of, 193, 194, 203, 204 European and Amerindian compared, 115 in slave fine dress, 154, 156 Fort Pitt textile trade with Amerindians at, 95, 97, 116–18 free settlers basic female outfit of, 168, 216 basic male outfit of, 167, 216 limits to dress change among, 228–29 frieze, 216 frockcoat, 133, 169 textiles for white settlers at, 117, 118 Fox frocks, See frockcoat; gown furs and skins dress of slave, 162 France change in dress regimes in, 232 Francq van Berkhij, Jan le descriptions of eighteenth-century Dutch dress, 232 as clothing, 35, 37, 44, 46, 100, 122, 123, 225, 236, 262, 263, 264 in clothing, 27, 30, 40, 44, 47, 84, 94, 101, 104, 106, 107, 230 in trade, 52, 64, 66, 95, 100, 216 persistence in Amerindian clothing, 105 persistence in Khoikhoi clothing, 226 fustians, 62, 138 Franks, David clothing trade with Amerindians, 95 textile trade with Amerindians, 95 Franquet, Louis, 220 description of Amerindian dress, 106, 112 gala, 176 garlix, 97 garments, See clothing gender and Amerindian dress, 48, 94, 120 and Cape Colony free settler dress, 202 and dress of free people of color, 192, 208 description of free settler dress in New France, 217 Free blacks, See also free people of color, in Cape Colony <ul style="display: flex;"><li style="flex:1">© in this web service Cambridge University Press </li><li style="flex:1"><a href="/goto?url=http://www.cambridge.org" target="_blank">www.cambridge.org </a></li></ul>

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