ORTADOGU'DA OSMANLI DÖNEMİ KÜLTÜR İZLERİ ULUSLAR ARASI BİLGİ ŞÖLENi BiLDİRİLERi

PAPERS SUBMITTED TO INTERNATIONAL SYMPOSIUM ON OTTOMAN HERJTAGE IN THE MIDDLE EAST

25-27 Ekim 1 October 1 2000, Hatay 28 Ekim 1 October 1 2000, İskend~run

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CİLT I 1 VOLTIME I

Yayın Koordinatörü 1 Puplication Coardinator İmranBABA

Yayma Hazırlama ve Redaksiyon 1 Prepearing Publication and Reduction by Şebnem ERCEBECİ- Aysu ŞİMŞEK-CANPOLAT

~türk Kültür Merkezi Başkanlığı Yayınlan Publication of Atatürk Culture Center Ortadoğu'da Osmanlı Dönemi Kültür izleri Uluslar Arası Bilgi Şöleni= ~temational Symposium on Ottoman Heritage in the Middle East (2000: Hatay, ıskenderun)

Ortadoğu'~a Osmanlı dönemi kültür izleri uluslar arası bilgi şöleni, Hatay, 25-27 Ekim 2000; ıskenderun, 28 Ekim 2000: biluirile(:- yay.haz.: Şebnem Ercebeci, Aysu Şimşek- Canpolat; çev.: Berin U. Yurdadağ, Adem Akın, Nurçin Yıldız.­ Ankara: AYK Atatürk Kültür Merkezi Başkanlığı, 2001 .

2c. :res.; 27cm. (Atatürk Yüksek Kurumu Atatürk Kültür Merkezi yayını sayı: 284 - 285; Kongre ve sempozyumlar dizisi: 22)

ISBN: 975-16-1560-7 Tk.

1. MİMARİ, OSMANLI-ORTADOGU-KONGRELER, V.B.

l.E.a. Il. Ercebeci, Şebnem, yay.hl!Z. III.Şimşek-Canpolat, Aysu, yay.haz. IV. Yurdadağ, Berin U., çev. V. Akın, Adem, çev. IV. Yıldız Nurçin, çev. VII. Seri

720-596

Bu eserin basımı Türk Tanıtma Fonu'nun katkılarıyla gerçekleştirilmiştir. THE IDJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB Ai BAJJ AL SBAMI "THE LAST OF THE SUBLIME REGIONAL MUSLIM ENDEAVORS"

Dr. R ami Farouk DAHER*

I. R ationales for R esearching the Recent Past architecture. heritage extends to the ordinary (Ottoman Legacy and Heritage in the Middle dwellings of peasan ts and urban dwellers, to the East) cultural landscapes of rural Jordan, and to the 1.1. Wby Study Ottoman H eritage? Ottoman infrastructure of the pilgrimage forts and later the stations of the significant Hijaz Railroad (The Contested Past and the Meaning of Line. The Ottoman history of Jordan has been Legacy) subject to several superficial endeavors attempting New paradigm shifts in the study of cultural to disregard its significance for the formatian of the change view culture asa phenomenon constantly in Modem S ta te ofJordan main Iy because ofideological deveiopment. Culture is a dynamic concept and differeuces between such a contested past and the when forced in to a s ta tic existence, it w ili cease to dogma of contemporary Ara b Nationalism. This is be the source ofinspiration. Looking at the political, most unfortunate, since the contribution of the social, and economic dimensions of cultural change, Ottoman era, present in its public works and and lıow it affects the quality of spatial form is of infrastructure; architectural heritage, administrative crucial importance for a better understanding of and institutional legacy, is of ultimate im portance lıeritage conservation movements in any geographic for Jordanian andMuslimsat large. It represents a and political context. Jordan has gone through missing link, a pivot point that links o.ur distant past several phases ofevolution encompassing prehistoric, with our contemporary reality. The Ottoman Iegacy in Jordan, as well as in the rest of the Muslim World ancient, classical, early Islamic, Medieval, Mamluk, ' Ottoman, and contemporary periods. This wide is wortlı a second reading, a re-evaluation, and a spectrum of histarical periods has generated a wide value-free assessment set away from any range of cultural heritage of diverse types, time preconceived Euro-centric representations ofhistory frames and natures. or a bana! dogrna of nationalism.

The cultural heritage ofJordan is not limited to The Ottoman architectural heritage in the Middle Classical or Early lslamic resources such as Petra, East is characterized by a harmonious unity while Jerash, Qusair Amra, or even the Crusader Castles. accommodating a regional diversity and variety. An Contrary to comman believes, the cultural heritage Ottoman mosque built in is certainly ofJ ordan also includes resources from recent periods different than aoother one bui lt in Jedda or in Tuois ofJordan 's history and is not restricted tomonumental for example. Such differences are because of

• Jordao University ofScieoce and Technology (JUST), lrbid/JORDANIÜRDÜN. 1 190 RAM! FAROUK DAHER

Ottoman tolerance ofregional differences within the Zobia, Hartha, Mkeis, Ma'an, and Kerak, just to vast . Such diverse architectural mention a few. heritage nega tes a European representation of the What escalates the situation is that Jordan is Ottoman legacy labeling it as imperial, this creating rapidly loosing a great part of its heritage dating to a link with Roman imperialism. The Ottoman that era due to development, demalition in the name architectural heritage in Jordan is very diverse, it of progress, vandalism, and mis use. According to includes not only vernacular villages, houses, and Khammash (1 986) Jordanian villages and towns are palaces; but it eıı:tends to water infrastructure, forts, laosing most oftheir historic fabrics to development hospitals, schools, strain stations, bridges, and many plans and zoning ordinances. Many public buildings severalpublic works that testifies to the Ottoman as traditional structures (e.g., traditional mosques public responsibility towards an evolving region, and town or viiiage squares) are hard to find in that is Jordan. The Jordanian Ottoman architectural Jordanian villages. Unfortunately, the cultural heritage shapes and formulated tlıe urban and rural landscape of Jordan is changing into a faceless and face of Jordan during a period so crucial to the characterless entity. This forgotten era, if well­ formatian of Jordanian identity. researched and conserved for future generations, can The last 500 years of Jordan's history are not play an important role in linking Jordan's distant well-represented in research endeavors and projects. past with its modern and contemporary history. Eve n thought the 171h, 181h, and 19th centuries are No clear definition exists of histarical and of ultimate im~ortance to Jordan; this period of cultural resources in Jordan today. In fact, post- history has started, only recently, to attract the 1700 AD histarical and cultural resources are not attention of researchers, previous emphasis was even protected by law (remnant of British Antiquities mainly on ancient, Classical, and early lslaınic Law that was implemented in the country in the first periods. Abu Jaber ( 1989, 24-27) ad d ed that half of the 20th century), and have been plagued by "information available to us about the course of widespread destruction, vandalism, and neglect. events and the way of life during the first three The management of cultural resources has alsa, only centuries of Ottoınan rule in Transjordan is rather recently, been integrated into the scope ofmunicipal scarce." In addition, research ofthis era is limited planning practice. Many historic city cores and only to analysis ofbuilding types within a specific viiiage centers in Jordan were victims of insensitive area, most commonly in rural context. Such studies planning schemes and zoning ordinances during the rarely investigate public buildings and urban centers, last couple of years. Road networks were la id out as their concern is anthropological, relating to the without proper consideration of existing histari c inhabitants and their way of life (Kan'an 1993). fabrics, demalition ofhisto.ric cores was carried out Abu Jaber (1989) added that there is a need for in the name of progress and modemity, the historic exhaustive research about that forgotten era of cores of , Ajlun and Ma'an coıne to mind. Jordan's history, that should depend not only on the architecture and physical remains of the past, but Developing a critica! understanding of the also on ·intensive archival research in Damascus, Ottoman heritage in Jordan should form the first Jerusalem, Nablus, Beirut, Tripoli, Istanbul, and step in its conservation and continuity for future . Very famous Ottoman archives from that geuerations and for the well being of the Muslim period include the Daftari Mufassal Jadid (New Jordanian community. The purpose of this paper is Detailed Register) of the sixteentlı century and the to investigate the arclıitecture, iropact, and Salname (Official Yearbook) of the l91h century. signifıcance of the Hijaz Railroad Line in Jordan, This kind of research is supposed to shed light on envisioned, designed, and built during the reigrı of the lives of Jordanians in forgotten urban and viUage Sultan Abd u! Hami d II, one of the last Ottoman centers such as Ajlun, , Tibneh, Samad, Sultans of the Ottoroan Empire at the turn of the THE HIJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HJ\JJ ALSHAMI 191

20tlı century. The paper will only attempt to raise complenıenl it and transform it to a di ITcrent !eve!. potential investigative issues rather than presenting Thereforc, the researchcr relcrrcd to the works of a detailed descriptive nan·ative of the Line and i ts Ottoman historians who, theınsclves, have alrcady history. Each of the ra ised issues can become the referred to extensive Ottoman archival resources subject of a new critical investigation. ( e.g., Salnamat (annual Ottoman books of various affairs), Muhimme Defteri (register of iınportant 1.2. Methodological Approachcs affairs, travel accounts, diaries. other). The rese1rcher It has been stated earlier that researchers are depended mainly on the works of Suraiya Faroqhi starting, just recently, to re-d iseover the Ottoınan ( 1994) who has cxtensively researched the pilgrinıage legacy in the Middle East. Such new approaches and the Hajj enterprise during the Ottoman period are attempting to reinterpret the Ottoman legacy before the inception of the Hijaz Railroad Line. In away from Euro-centric perspectives or even bana! addi tion, the work of William Ochsenwald on the Arab nationalisı views. Many new researclıjoumals Hijaz Railroad was instruınental for this research. and associations have emerged within the last two Other works by various Ottoınan historians and decades that are dedicated to the research and study theoreticians included: Karl Barbir (1996), Andrew of Ottoman histQry a!ld heritage. This includes "the Peterson (1986), Mohammad Adnan Bakheit (1982), new journal, Arab Histarical Review for Ottoman Eugene Rogan (1999), and many others. Studies (AHROS) which is edited and published by - Travel Accounts of Pilgrims From V:ırious Abdeljelil Temimi of the University ofTunis; the Eras: Such pilgrims and travelers included: 1bn Ottoman Studies Association of Beirut, founded in Battuta, Ibn Djubayr the Andalusian who travelcd 1986, with meınbers drawn from several religious­ to the Hijaz in 1184, Ewliya Celebi: the Ottoman eUınic coınmunities; the Center for Turkish Studies who lived between ı 896 and 1938, Abd-al Qader at the University of Mosul, , founded in 1988; al- Djazari who traveled to the Hijaz in the 16111 the Moroccan Association of Ottoınan Studies, century, and also European travelers who went on founded in 1989; and the Egyptian Center of Ottomau the Hajj on disguise such as John Lewis Burckhardt Studies, founded in 1990" (Barbir, 1996, 108-9). in I 807, and Charles Doughty in ı 876. In Jordan, the researching the Ottoman heritage has attracted many scholars such as the famous -Extcnsive Ficldwork Along the H ijaz Moha!nınad Adnan al Bakhiet, who has established Railroad Line: The fieldwork included: first, a field a significaut nucleus of researchers on Ottoman reconnaissance level survey of several Railroad resources, history, and politics at Al al Bayt University Stationsin Turkey (e.g., Sirkeci, Hayderpasa, Adana), in , Jordan. (e.g., Aleppo, Qatma, Damascus, Qadam), and in Jordan (e.g., Mafraq, Zarka, Aınman, Qatrana, This research adopts a multi-disciplinary Jizza, Jurf al Darawish, and Ma'an). This survey approach to knowledge and information seeking. It was conducted in the suınmer of 1990 and it included uses triangulation to link different research metlıods a critical assessment of the different Hajj Forts built and various resources together generating, eventually, along the Caravan routes as well. Second, the mediate inferences from all the different data. The fıeldwork in 1990 included a full architectural research depended on the followiog methods and documentation of one of the station (The Hijaz data resources: Railroad Station at Amman) for purposes of - Content Analysis of Major Ottoman rehabilitation, adaptation, and heritage conservation. Historiography: The essence of a multidisciplinary Third: in 1994, the researcher hea?ed a traveling approach is not to repeat the work ofotherresearchers workshop (Sacrcd PaUı Expedition) which comprised but rather to benefıt from it and carry it over to ofvarious scholars and rescarchers on an exploratory different disciplines. The rescareher attempts not journey that targeted various heritage resources to repeat the work of historians, but rather to dating to the Ottoman period in Joı·dan. Fioally, the 192 RAMI FAROUK DAHER researcher has conducted informal interviews with acknowledge the complexity of the Ott.oman certain Hijaz Railroad personnel in Jordan berween administrative regional apparatus initiated for the 1990 and 1994. This was coupled with an Hajj to the Holly Cities of Islam, which took place ethnographic research in the Station of Arnman in without any European interference or aid. "It should 1990. be the aiın of any historical work concerning the Middle East to counteract the unfortunate tendeney - Archival Ottoman Resources: Eventhough of regarding European-American history as the only the researcher depended on the work of historians 'real' history, to which everything else is merely an to analyze the archival ınaterial; nevertheless, the adjunct. Admittedly many historians do not see it researcher has consulted with several archival that way, and when as effort is made to present Ottoman records such as the Salnamat (year books Middle Eastem history in its own terrns, the attempt ofState affairs), the Dafter Muffasal Jadid, Muhimme is not always successful" (Faroqhi, I 994, 175). Deftereri (register of important affairs), and several Jordanian newspapers that included articles on the The European States have "stubbomly refuse~ Hijaz Railroad Line. The Salnarnar were important to call the Ottoman Empire by its name, instead archival sources. In addition to the main State labeling this multi-religious, multilingual, multiethnic Salname, other thematic Salnamas were issued such polity as "Turkey" and its rulers "Turks." That those as the foreign affairs Salname and the military ruling from the banks of the Bosphorus themselves Salmane. In addition, each of the different Ottoman used the word "Turk" tomean "rustic" or "bumpkin" Vi İ ayat issued Salnamat of its own. The different just did not penetrate Westem perceptions (Brown, Vilayat that issued Salnamat in the Middle East 1996, 5), (lnalcik, 1996, I 9). European iınperial included the Vilayat of Basra, Beirut, Jabal Libnan, powers were promoting nationalistic sentiments Hijaz, Aleppo, Syria, Tripoli West, Egypt, Mosul, within the Ottoman Empire in an attempt to break and Yemen. The Ottoman administration has left it from within (e.g., Arrnenians seeking independence, us a valuable archival record to the extent where one Arabs and the.Arab Nationalists). It is only ironic researcher could construct an ethnographic research that the Classical Statement of the Nationalİst based on this rich archival legacy. view appeared in English in 1938. "This was the Arab Awakening, writte~ . by George Antonius, a One of the difficulties faced in this research is Palestinian Christian Arab." The different Christian the scarcity of records and written resources on the missionaries and the schools they have created (e.g., development of the Hijaz Railroad Line. Many of The Syrian Protestant College, later the American Railroad documents have either been destroyed or University of Beirut) helped also to promote this lost in the course of conflicts between the Ottoınans sense of Arab nationalism (Barbir, 1996, 105). The and the Arab States (Ochsenwald, 1980, ix). Ara bs have misinterpreted the Ottoman period based Therefore, the researcher depended cin a number of on a limited perspective of Arab nationalism that secondary sources that were not written specifically views the Ottomau period as four centuries of alien about the Hijaz Railroad Line. doruination and neglect. Current lslamic movements 1.3. Representations of the O ttoman Lcgacy within the Arab World today challenge the dogma and R ejection of a Euro-centric. Socio-Political of nationalism (e.g., either Arab, Turk, or Persian) Perspective {Western Mode of Liberalism and advocating a Parn-Islam ideology echoing the the Emergence of National States) Harnidian critica! approach of the previous century. Many historians and researchers asstime that Regardless of their content and applicability, such events within the Ottoman Empire receive their Pam-lslamic ideologies are being silenced and significance only from the impact they have upon discouraged by either Arab ruling states and by the developments in Europe. This Euro-Centric and imperial powers of the United States and Europe at politically charged perspective neglected to the same time. THE HIJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HAJJ AL S HAMI 193

For example, throughout the eastem Arab world 2. The Hajj Under the Ottomans taday, the received ıvisdom is that the Ottoman era (Continuity & Change within a Multi-Folded amoımted to fo ur centuries ofalien dominatio11. Many and Integrative Enterprise) preseni-day ilis are explained by the doıtble imperialisnı offirst the Ottomans and the n Europe. }et, careful 2.1. Patronage, Legitimacy, and Power histarical scholarship reveals that even as Iate in the fas/ decade or so ofthe Ollaman period the overıvlıelming O ur view. of the past and of i ts legacy is very majority ofArabs living in geographic Syria (the "beating much based on what we select from the past as heart" ofArabism) did not regard Ottoman m/e as alien significant evenıs, persons, heritage, buildings, or and ıvere politically quietist orsupportive ofthe govemment even ideologies (Inalcik, 1996, ı 7). It is a well­ /ed by tlıe Sultan/Ca/ip/ı. Those ıvlıo joined witlı Slıerif known fact that the pası is increasingly becoming a Husayn and his British al/ies in t/ıe so-cal/ed Arab revalt contested phenomenon that is based on who does were vieıved askance by most ofthe people tlıey presımıed the interpretation, why, and for whom. The Ottoman to represent. legacy is defıantly one of the most contested of all

(Broıvn, 1996, ll). legacies within the recent past. It has repeatedly been reinterpreted and represented from a purely A bana! critique of the Ottoman periods accuses ethnocentric and hegemonic Westem perspective, the Ottomans of inflicting minimal change on the whicb has also influenced other reinterpretations of socio-economic, technological, educational, and that legacy, by Arab nationalists, Armenians, and political aspects of life in the M.iddle East Historians, the likes. There is a need for extensive re-reading heritage conservationists, and architects should start of the Ottoınan legacy where it should be reintroduced to seriously construct a thorough examination of the within contemporary discourses ofislam in an attempt development of the Hali enterprise, the evolution of to link the distant pası with the realities oftoday. the caravan routes, the intensive public works, and the various building activities that flourished in the lt is very ·diffıcult to study the Hijaz Railroad various cities in Bilad al Sham and the Hijaz alongside Line without first understand ing the signifıcance of the Darb al Hali al Shami. Only then, one can really the Hajj and its various routes, complexities, and sense a milieu that supports constructive change and attributes before the inception of the Line. The a genuine public responsibility undertaken by the pilgrimage to Mecca is central to the believe systems State during Ottoman periods. Public works and of all Muslims. It is one of the major pillars of building activities in Bilad al Sham and the Hijaz Islam. The Ka'ba is by no means a relic, but it included mosques, medrassas, water networks, passesses a religious significance unprecedented in schools, pious foundations, ports, commercial centers, the Christian or Jewish faitbs. The Hajj to Mecca forts, political headquarters, railroad tracks, bridges, presented an ordeal for the traveler of the pre­ water mi lls, and train stations to mention a few. In industrial world. The pilgrim had to travel tlıousands fact the urban fabric that we see in Bilad al Sham of mil es from various places in the Muslim world today, is to a certain extent, credited to the Ottoman in severe and rough conditions (e.g., crossing deserts period of buil(ling activities and urban services and w ith very few water resources, financial constrains developments. lt is this constructive, slow, but expenses along the way). Therefore, the pilgrims significant change that the different bistoriaos should of the ı 61h century, for example, d id not "separate be tackling (Barbir, 1996, 102). the economic and social aspects of tlıeir activities from the religious side, whicb to them doubtlessly Such metlıodological problems conji'Ont tlıe hisforian constituted the essential reason for undergoing the seeking to interpret any period, and tlıe best working trouble and sacrifices entailed by the joumey (Faroqhi, ansıver can be stated as a maxim: Never total change, ı994, 3). never total continuity. For eaclı specific Jıistorical case, one must carefully weiglıt how muclı change and how The Hijaz became uuder Ottoman control in muclı continuity. (Broıvn, 1996, 8) 194 RAM! FAROUK DAHER

I 5 17 when Sultan Sel im I conquered Ca i ro. The always been not easy waters to cross. Map ı sheds Hijaz under the Ottomans was very ınuch dependant light on the various pilgrimage Caravan routes that on its food supply (e.g., mainly grains) on Egypt existed in the Islaınic World. and Bilad al Sham, such supplies were ordered and During the 16 1h century and la ter, several Hajj orchestrated by the Ottoman administration due to R'Jutes were known to Pilgrims (Petersen, ı989 , the ultimate religious importance of the Hijaz as the 97): Holy !and that housed Mecca and Medina. The ability of the Ottomans to organize, protect, and - Baglıdad-Kufa-Mecca: This was known as securethe safety of the Hajj Caravan to Medina and Darb Zubayda and was systematically provided with Mecca conrributed positively to the legitimacy of "unfortified watering places along its 1 ı 70 the Ottoman Sultans as protectors of the Holly cities kilometers." ofMecca and Medina. Cairo was now no ınore than - Basralı-Mecca: It crosses northeastem Arabia a provincial center, Damascus gained iınportance as and joins the previous route at Umm Khurman. being the Capital of the Province ofSyria (Vilayat - Cairo-Mecca: This routes either traveled SWTiya). U nder Otıoman adıninistrative system, the Yilaya was divided into several Sanjaqs or Alwiyas, across the Red Sea went iniand to Aqaba and then the Sanjaq was divided retrospectively into different alongside the Red Sea Shore to Jeddah and then to Aqdiya, the Qada was divided into several Nawahi, Mecca. This routc is bctter known ns the Darb al the Naheia was divided into small villages (Bakheit, Hajj al Masri. 1982). . - Sa11'a-Mecca Coastal Route: lt follows the The Ottoman Hajj institutions continuously coastline of the Red Sea through the Tihama. entered into negotiations with the Bedouin tribes - San'a-lvfecca flıland Route: lt had many water along the Darb al Hajj al Shami convincing them to resources and passed through the northern Yemen stop the raids on the Hajj caravans in return for Plateau. subsidies paid the Ottomans to the Bedouins and for - Oman-Mecca: It passed alongside the Arabian Otıoman-granıe'd honorary titles. Therefore the Hajj Sea to Yemen and then joined one of the Sa'na affairs constituted a great importance to the Ottoınan Routes. administration in Istanbul. Occasional Bedouin Attacks on the Hajj Caravaıı constituted a erises in - Damascus-Mecca Route: This route has its Legitimacy for the Sultan in Istanbul. "Sultanic origins in pre-Islamic trade routes (main spice route legitimacy was also upheld by the construction and between the lndian Ocean and the Mediterı·anean repair ofpious and religious foundations" that existed Sea passing through Arabia. This route is belter during Maroluk periods and beycnd.(Faroqhi 1994, known as the Darb al Hajj al Shami. 7-9). 2.3. Public Works (Forts, Water Infrastructure, 2.2. Caravan Routes & Urban Services)

Before the Ottomans, some pilgrims (mainly The Crcation of a Regionaı Administrativc from North Africa), used European slıips. lbn Apparatus Djubayr, an Andalusian pilgrim from the 1211' century, The Muslim pilgrims to the holly !and came for example, embarked on a Genoese ship, which from all over the Islamic World extending west to took him to Alexandria in Egypt. Then he joumeyed Westem Africa in Morocco and the Niger and east to the Egyptian port of Aydhab and crossed the Red to China, Malaysia, and Indonesia. This demanded Sea to Jeddah and then Joumeyed to Mecca (Faroqhi, the provision of a multi-folded and extremely 1994, ı 7). The trip was vcry troublesome specially iutegrative Hajj enterprise by the Ottomans that not the sea joumey across the Red Sea, which have only secured the safety of the different Caravans, THE HIJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HAJJ AL SIIAMI 195 through negotiations and power delegation s with the pilgrims, and solid waste ınanagement in the N1eccan Bedouins and the Sherifs ofMecca and Medina; but Streets. also supervised the provision and organization of The Ottomaııs have constructed also various public works in the Hijaz and alongside the Caravan forts alongside the pilgrimage Caravan route to routes, the Caravan organization and safety, the Mecca. Forts in Jordan included Zerka, Jiza, Deb'a, potential trade networks and regional trading at fair , Hasa, Unaiza, Ma'an, Fassu'a, and locations such as Muzayribor Jeddah, and the daily Mudawwara. Forts in the Hij az included Tabuk. demands and requirements of the pilgriıns visiting Ukhaydir, Al Muazzam, Dar al Hamra, Madain the Holly Cities of Islam. For this complicated, Saleh, Al Ula, and Hadiyya. The pilgrinıage Fons integrative, and multi-folded task, a regional should also be considered as significant water administrative apparatus was created, which, "from installations that provided the different Ottonıan the central govemment's po int of view, was mo re garrisons and the Caravan w ith water. Most of th<: difficult to control than its counterpans in the Ottoman Forts were built during the first 3 centuries oı' core regions ofAnatolia and RLUnelia (Faroqhi, 1994, Ottoman rule. The building of the Forts initiated 146). tbe shift to a new Caravan Route to the East of the At all times, tlıe pi/grimage was located at the Old K.ing's Highway that passed through other towns intersection ofseveral far-.flımg nefııtarks, prinıari~v social and earlier Forts such as Ajlun, Kcrak, and Showbak and religious. buf politicalund economic us well. Yel (Petersen, ı 996, ı 3-I 5), (Peterseıı , 1989, 97). neither tlıe Ollaman state, nar i ts predecessors daminating t/ıe Hejaz in the Middle Ages.fully control/ed all these The Ollaman forts were built specifical/y for the networks. Tlıerefore the political cliles. botlı Ouomcm Safe~ı· ofpilgrims and lay mı a ne ll' route. Up ımf il tlıe and Mamluk. were faced witlı a number ofdifficult tasks. sixteemlı cent lll)' the Pilgrimage lıad usuallyfollowed the As we lıave seen in the previous clıapters. tlıe safety of nıoımtainous rallle immediately east of tlıe Wodi Araba tlıe pilgrims could only be assured if Ouoman lmown as tlıe King's Higlıway. Howeveı: intlıe reign of adnıinistrators succeeded in satisfyillg, and were ı.ecessaıy Suteyman tlıe Magniftcent; a dauglıter oflı is predecessor intimidating, armed Bedouins on tlıe verge offa mine, complained ofhaving to go up and doıvn nıoımtainous umııly janissaries anda /oca/ popıdalion accustomed to coımtry so that a new route to tlıe east was aclopted. Tlıis imperial largesse. As force could be used only in route was cal/eelthe 'Tariq al B int' and is that folloıved emergencies, the scopefor various kinds ofpolitica/ action by the Hijaz Rai/way and tlı e modem Desert Higlııvay. was co11.çiderable. (Faroqhi, 1994. 1 46). Because tlıis ro u te folloıved the edge of the desert. the need for water and protection ofwa1er sources became Construction activities and public works in eı•enmnre importallf and to this en d q series ofForts were Mecca and Medina are considered also important built. (Petersen, 1986. 13). means of legitimizing Sultanic power in the Hijaz. At the turn of the century, the Hijaz Railroad Tlıerefore, the Ottomans played an iınportant role Line followed this new Caravan Route at the Edge in sbaping the urban morphology oftlıe holly cities of the Badiah siııce it was much easier to lay down in the Hijaz and in initiating elaborate public works the track on a flat surface. Then, Ottoman along the Darb al Hajj alShami (e.g., the various iofrastructures of different times (the Forts, water Hajj Forts in Jordan and the Hijaz and tlıeir associated installations, and the Train Stations) worked together water installations). Public works and urban services in providing the pilgrim and the traveler a secured in Mecca and Medina included installations of water and safe joumey into the Hijaz and throughout Bilad pipes (e.g., pipes carryiog water from Arafat Plateau al Sham. to Mecca), renovation of the great Mosque ofMecca, renovation of several ofthe great Mosque Minarets, 2.4. In st i tuti onaliıing the Caravan lighting; perfuming; and decorating the Great Organizing the Caravan, with its different Mosque, water management and supply, housing for personnel, troops, pilgrims, water supplies, gifts, 196 RAMI FAROUK DAHER mo ney (Surra) to the Emirs and Sherifs of Mecca geographic boarders of Syria and the Hijaz. The and Medina, food supplies, and many other Fa iratMa'an contributed to the growth and prosperity contingencies, was a complicated task that needed of the town in the middle of the 19~' century as stated utmost skills in organization and management. The by the European traveler George Watlin in 1845 and most important person on the Caravan was the Hajj inl848 (Peters, 1994, 291-2). Commander who was appointed by the Ottoman One can easily witness gradual pragmatic change State ( e.g., the Vali of Damascus or other im portant regarding the O ıtoman administration of the Hajj political or religious fıgures). Other persons included enterprise. Yet, one also notices the continuity of the commanders substitute (the Ketkhuda), an Amir traditions between Maroluk and Ottoman practices in charge of stopping points, and the master of the (e.g., rehabilitation and continuity of pious and stables (the mirakhor) who was in charge of the religious foundations, 1 rehabilitation and continuity horses and camels. The Damascus Caravan also of public works programs such as water instaUations, included an emin, in charge of fınances, a judge structure and formatian of the Caravan and supply (kadi), and a supervisor (Nazer). The camping of policies to Bedouins). Whatever change occurred the Caravan was done in a very ordered manner with from Mamluk to O ıtoman times happerred gradually, locations of the different p i lgriıns coming from and the Oıtoman administration approach was strictly different regions in the Ottoman Empire (Peters, pragmatic (Faroqhi 1994, 35). This conscious 1994, 147, 148), (Faroqhi, 1994, 35-37). continuity of tradition negates the banal and The ceremonies of the departure and the returo politiciz~d European representation of an imperial of the Ca ra vans were very signifıcant all over the and rigid Ottoman system. Ottoınan empire. Departure processian for the gifts, Bul in the Hejaz tlıe reasons for continuing Mam luk gold, and subsidies (Surra) to the Hijaz and to the supply policies ıve1l? more compel/ing than anywlıere else; Amirs ofMecca and Medina, carried on the Mahınal, after all, tlıe Ottoman Sultans sought legitimation not was celebrated each year in Istanbul. Later on after through descent, bul through contemporary immediale the inception of the Hijaz Railroad Line during the political success. A policy ofgenerosity toıvards pilgrinıs reign of Sultan.Abdul Hamid, the departure of the and inlıabitants ofthe Holy Cities, ıvlıiclı equa/ed and if Surra Processian was initiated from the Yildiz possible surpassed tlıe pe1jormance ojthe most brilliant Hamidiye Mosque in Istanbul. In addition, and after Mamluk Sultaııs, constitu.ted an effective source of leaving Darnascus, the Caravan stopped at the nearby legitimacy. Comparisonwillı Mamluk was facilitated if Muzayrib, where the pilgrims d id their shopping in overall arrangements in favor ofpilgrims and residen ts oftlıeHejazıvereretnined. (Faroqlıi, 1994, 75). peeparation for the joumey at the Muzayrib Fair which ,lasted a couple of days (Faroqhi, 1994, 40- General pilgrimage expenditures, taking into 41). The Muzayrib Fair had anather signifıcance, consideration both the Cairo Caravan and the it granted Iate comers a cl1ance to catch up with the Damascus Caravan, amounted to about between Caravan at Muzayrib. This slicing up of departure 300,000 and 385,000 gold pieces during the Iate 16tlı had a valuable signifıcance for different pilgrims. century and tlıe early 17th century. When these In addi tion, .the Fair provided, with other fairs that numbers are compared with Ottoman war were held in various Muslim urban locations, the expenditures between February 1606 and May 1607, chance for cross regional interaction and trade. whiclı amounted to about 618,416 gold pieces; the Anather important Hajj Fair was held in Ma'an, Hajj could be considered of ultimate signifıcance which was considered a frontier town between the for the Ottomans since for the Ottoman Ernpire as

ı "Some of the foundations disbursing aıms ıo poor pilgrims went back to Manılıtk times. Tiıus in ı 580-1 a charity esıabıished by the tası major Mamlıık Sultan, Kansu/ı al G/wri (reigned 1501- ı 7) was stili operating. lt regularly provided twelve loads of sbip's biscuiıs to the poor (Faroqhi, 1994, 43). THE HIJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HAJJ AL S HAMI . 197 for early modern European States, war by far was ofDamascus), and then the building of an Ottoman­ the most important item of expenditure (Faroqhi, controlled Hejaz Railway to connect Syria with the 1994, 89). Hejaz. Of course, the Westem imperial powers saw in this ambitious project a threat to their operations 3. The Hamidian Critical Approach and interests in Egypt, the Gulf, and India and worked 3.1. Sultan Abdul Hamid II and Pan Islam bard first to dominate the project by o ffering financial Activities. aid and technical assistance, which the Sultan (A Cballenge to the Nationalist Paradigm) rejected, and ·second to destroy the Line through the provoking of nationalists feelings amongst the Arabs The Hijaz Railroad can be considered a milestone and the Bedouins of the Hijaz. and an integral materialization of the Hamidian Critica! Approach in resisting European daminance Abdullıamid ll's thirty-rıvo-year reign was based 011 five principle po in/s ofchange fivm the preceding Tanzimat white achieving technological progress and reform. era: (J) personal rule, (2) Pan-Islam, (3) reform of the It is also considered a massive underraking for an army lo modemize itwillıout/iberalizing the officer co1ps, Empire notorious for its collapsing status in the 19ıh (4) maill/enance offinancial independencefrom Europe century and for an Empire inexperienced in operating by refusing lo seek loans, and (5) an unwritten alliance its own public- infrastructure and utility. ıvillı aıleasi one European powe1: Allfive lıad a close During the Tanzimat period (183 9-7 6), preceding connection ıvitlı the Hijaz Railroad Project. (Oc/ısemvald, 1980. 5). the reign of Sultan Abdul Ham id Il, the proclaimed reforms back fired on the Empire and resulted into Sultan Abdul Hamid ll policy defıantly was the incorporation of the Eınpire in to the European anti-nationalist.2 He view Western forces that were capital market. "Econoınic subservience to Westem trying to provoke nationalİst sentiınents in the Middle Europe was added to the European Military East as of great danger to the unity of the Muslim superiority that had existed si nce the early nineteenth nation, considering the dogma of nationalism to be century" (Ochsenwald, 1980, 3). Sultan Ab dul antithetical and paradoxical with the essence ofislam Ham id (reigoed I 876-1909) sa w the necessity of and the concept ofone Muslim nation. Unfortunately, formutating a coherent response to Western his convictions and fears were true, one of the main imperialisın, but also feared the political reasons for the disintegration of Islami c unity and consequences of rapid modemization on the Empire. power was the banal but popular nationalistic Abdul Hamid was then, critical in forging a Pan uprisings against the Ottomans and against the Islamic ideology thus rejecting Westem iınperialism, concept of one Muslim na tion. It is evident from economic and political domination, nationalism, and extensive histarical research that such nationalistic a politically imposed and charged liberalism. On movements (Arab, Kurdish, Turk, and Persian, other) the other hand, he incorporated European technology were not so much a reaction to injustice and :freedom, to pursue his Pan Islamic Objectives. "The epitome as proclaimed by many of the key players behind of the Hamidian method to achieve traditional goals such revolts. But rather, they were a fabricated and oppose Westem values was the Hijaz Railroad" reality slıared only by a smail percentage of the (Ochsenwald, 1980, 4), (Ochsenwald, 1996, 270). Muslim community under Ottoman rule, and manufactured and promoted by European colonial Sultan Abd al Hamid's vision was to construct powers ofFrance and Britain and aided and triggered the Baghdad Railroad to Aleppo (which was already by the Christian citizens of the Ottoman Empire connected with rail in Anatolia and in Syria north (Barbir, 1996, 104-6).

2 "Sultan Abdul Hamid was not anti-Arab. lndeed, his reign brought several Arabs to high Office. Abdulhamid's Pan-lslam can be see n, in part, as a plausible strategy of relying mo re on the (largely Ara b and Turkish) Muslimness of the empire, after having lo st most of the large Iy Christian ıerritories in O ıtoman Empire" (Bar bir, 1996, I 06). 198 RAMI FAROUK DAHER

3.2. Maintaining F i nancia ll ııdcpcııdcnce and Ketiner ( 1997) states that globalization "could the Rejcction of Foreign Aid serve as a cover to neutralize the horrors of colonialisın and could be part ofa discourse ofneo­ In Jordan. it is true that foreign aid had assisted imperialism that serves to obscure the continuing and playcd a major and important role in tınaneing exploitation of much of the world by a few the tourism development sector; yer, this does not superpowers and giant transnational corporations, automatically mean that foreign aid isa power-free thus cloaking some of the more barbaric and enterprise. lt is true that foreign aid suppoıts Jordan's desıructive aspects of contemporary development." allempts for development. \ike many other countries Conteınporary theoreticians view foreign aid, in the region as well, but there is a price that Jordan structured within the forces of Iate capitalisın and and Jordanians have to pay in retum. Sultan Abdul fonnal economies, asa ınean for economic and social 1 Haınid's critica! position in the rejection of European demination replacing the traditional 19 h century ' (mainly French and British) aid and assistance in modes of demination ( colonization and imperialism). the constructing of the Hijaz Railroad Lineisa true A contemporary-critical assessment of foreign ai d example to follow in the Jslaınic World today. lt is should target: 1) The structure and politicized nature also a testimony of how development throughout of the aid ınoney: aid is politically motivated and is the different Islamic countries can be achieved conditioned and linked to privatization. In addition, depending on Muslim financial resources. labor aid money fınds its way back to donor agencies, aid force, and technological capabilities. "An Ottoman mo ney is increasingly facing problems of improper state railroad presented an opportunity to avoid tendering and expenditure ınechanisms. Also, foreign dependence as well asa mcans of achicving development agendas promoted by tlıe donor agencies the long-range goals of increased military, continue on shifting and changing, tllUS negating the technological, and fınancial strengtlı" (Oclısenwald, possibilities of sustainability. 2) The increased bii nd 1980, 25). dependency on foreign aid funded projects: at the Current funding conditions together with World level of muriicipalities, very few and rare community Trade Organization (WTO) restrictions open the development projeers are initiated witlı local financing ıuarkets of a certain country to the world without ınechanisıns. There is a gradual dependency on restraint or limitation. They encourage privatization, detenninistic modes of development, that kilis local opening the fınancial markers or stock exchange to initiatives. and a lack of sustainability once aid the world, and impose Western late-capitalist money is gone. 3) Foreign aid rhetoric and dogma ideologies white diminishing the authority of the of bana! liberalism: foreign aid rhetoric sugarcoats state, wlıich becomes another institution among and disguises forces of global and economic many. In ınany of the 3rd world countries, aid is doınination. Aid is seen asa replacement offormer conditioned with the adeption of Western late­ 19ıtı century mo des of demination (e.g., imperialism, capitalist mechanisms and ideologies (e.g., coloniıation). secularism, accepting deınocracy at face value, family Muslim countries are in desperare need for a planning, pi-ivatization of vital sectors, pluralism, fıım critica! position that rejects foreign aid which supporting fnigmentation policies of the State and is coupled with political, socio-economic, and cultural ofsociety, women rights). Many fear and view this domination. .The Muslim World is in need of politicized and conditioned funding as a mean for deınonstration regional projects (siınilar to the Hijaz cultural, economic, and political demination or a Railroad Line) in order to reinsert self-confıdence camouflage for dilution of values and national/ in Muslim potenti:ıls, capabilities, ~nd fınancial regional sovereignty. resources. THE HIJAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HAJJ AL SHAM I 199

4.Th~ Hijaz Railroad Line as a Realization accessian to the throne. "lt would be fınanced, built, of the Hamidian Critica! Approach and operated by the Ottoman Empire alone" (Ochsenwald, 1980, 23). The attached tables, graphs, (The Last of the Sublime Regional Muslim and maps provide a detailed description of the stages Endeavo~s) of construction, financing sources and amounts, and 4.1. Rationales and Objectives principle stations of the Hejaz Railroad Line.

The Hijaz Railroad Line stands out in the cultural Tlıe construction of/he rai/road was one oftlıe mos/ landscapes of South Syria and Jordan symbolizing complex adminislrative and engineering 1asks ımdertaken a sineere Ottoman atternpts to resist European by government in tlıe 191" centwy. For even tlıe most economic and socio-political control and dominance. ej]icient oforganizations, tlıis prese111ed a considerable This extremely significant project can truly be challenge. For o non-European govemmelll tlıere ıvas considered the last of the regional Muslim grand also tlıe problem of adopting foreign teclınology and metlıods. (Oclısemvald. 1980, 25). undertakings. It was financed throughout Muslim fınancial mechanisms, and constructed and operated The Ottomans have created central commissions by Muslim engineers and adrninistrators. The Hejaz in Istanbul and in Damascus for the administration· Railroad can b e considered a milestone and an of the consıructioo and la ter operations of the Line. integral rnaterialization of the Hamidian Critica! German teclınical assistance in the form of railroad Approach in resisting European deminance while engineers (e.g., Engineer Heinrich Meissner) was achieving technological progress and reform. significant to the success of the construction. Ottoman soldiers were used for comman labor ( e.g., Prior to the inception of the Hijaz Railroad, moving eanh for the em bankments upon which the Anatolia and Bilad al Sham (primarily north of rail was placed). Ottoman engineers and Damascus) was equipped with European-dominated administrators also extensively worked on the project Railway systems. An example is the Damas, Ha ma, such as Mehmed Ali Pasa, Hasan Pasa, and Kaziın et Prolongements Railroad (D. H. P.) which Pasa (Ochsenwald, 1980, 26, 29, 30, 34). A telegraph dominated by the french where the Ottomans had line was also constructed alongside the Line to lıelp to pay to ll every time they used the Railroads. The with communications between Istanbul, Damascus, DHP Railroad connected Aleppo w ith Hama, Homs, and other towns on the Line. The most signifıcant Riyaq, and Damascus, and went as south as construction material for the Line was the rolling Muzayrib. It a1so connected Homs witlı Tripeli and stock and the rails. The rail and rolling stock was Riyaq with B eirut. The Hejaz Railroad Line, supplied by Ottoman and foreign contractors. "In extended south from Damascus to Medina passing 1900 the Istanbul Central Commission ordered that through several towos such as Amınan, Ma'an, Tabuk, rail and other equipment be made at the imperial and Al Ula. An extension line that connected Dera shipyards and Naval Arsenal in Istanbul" with Haifa passing through Muzayrib was also (Oclısenwald, ı 980, 41 ). The total co st of constructed and has proven to be extremely construction up until 1912 was about 4,283,000 T. significant and effıcient (Ochsenwald, 1980). L. (2,800 T. L. per kilometer and about 15% ofthe 4.2. Construction, Financing, and Operations O ıtoman Empire's budgeted expenditures in ı 909). On the second of May 1900, Sultan Abd al The cost proved to be muclı less than the French Hamid ordered the construction of the railroad operated D. H. P. line between Hama and Riyaq at between Damascus and.Mecca (the Hejaz Railroad 7,000 T. L. per kilometer (Ochsenwald, 1980, 53- 9). Once the Line was in operation, runuing coasts Line). He appealed to the Muslims oftlıe world for their emotioıial and fınancial support. Construction were also high s ince many repairs were made because of the-Hamidiye Hijaz Railroad was to begin on the of Bedouin attacks on the Line conflicted damage fırst of September I 900, the 25th anniversary of his to cars, rails, and station. Table 5 she~s ligbt on 200 RAMI FARCUK DAHER civil, pilgrim, and rnilitary passengers in addition to buildings that was sponsored by the Ottoman State. freight operations. The Stations on the Hijaz Railway could be categorized in to two main types (Daher, 1991 ): Pinaneing the Hejaz Railroad Line, shown in Table 6, originated from different sources such as -The Terminus Type: Cities !ike Damascus or gifts, donations, taxes, and other sources that Medina constituted main huge urban centers (a demoostrated not only the level of support and terminus where one ends or starts his or her joumey). enthusiasrn for the Hijaz railroad line, but alsa was Usually, the design ofthe Station and its relationship a concrete expressian of the Pan-Islamic movement. with the railroad tracks respected this signifıcant "The largest number of calleetion committees was relationship, the tracks run into the Station proper in lndia. Indian su?jects replied quickly when, as to indicate a major stop on the Railroad Line. in June 1908, the railroad said it needed money -The Rural Type: In towns !ike Amman,3 urgently." (Ochsenwald, 1980, 69). The Hijaz Qatrana, or Ma'an, the railroad tracks ran paraUel Railroad Line was alsa advocated strongly in several to the Station indicaling a usual stop but not a local newspapers and in public meetings and signifıcant termin us. This type is labeled by Daher gatberings as well. Despite all difficulties, the main (1991) as the Rural Type since it represented the objectives of Sultan Abdul Hamid were almost m et nature of the towns in which these stations were in the operations of the Line in later years. bui lt. 4.3 Urban, Political, and Socio-Economic One Hali tradition that continued into the ıoth Impact on Bilad al Sham century was the various Hali Fairs that were heldon The Ottomans played an important role in different locations (e.g., Muzayrib, Ma'an) south of sbapiog the urban morphology of the holly cities in Damascus on the way to the Holly Cities. Such the Hijaz and in initiating elaborate public works Fairs had a great positive impact on the development along the Darb al Hajj alShami (e.g., the various of such urban centers and on promoting regional Hali Forts in Jordan and the Hijaz and tbeir associated lslamic interaction and trade. The Caravan Fair at water installati~ns). Public works and urban services Muzayrib provided a chance.for pilgrims to purclıase in Bilad al Sham included the building ofvillages their needs before the Hejaz Railroad Line. In the and towns, town commercial centers, schools and 19th century, Muzayrib was to evolve into a major religious medrasas, mosques, administrative commercial center in Syria and was linked to headquarters, and many other installations and Danıascus through one of Syria's earlier train lines. buildings. Many towns and villages on the Rai !road 4.4 The Ambiguous Future Line or near it grew in size and population (e.g., Aromao, Muzayreeb, Ma'an, Dera, Mafraq, During the second half of the ıotb centuries, Qatraneh). Trade in agriculture increased rapidly there have been several attempts to revive the Hejaz {e.g., wheat from ) specially witlı the easy Railroad Line by Syria, Jordan, Turkey, and Saudi transport from the Huaran region to Ibe Mediterranean Arabia. Unfortunately, all ofthe efforts were doomed on the Railroad. in failure. One of the technical problems is the fact that the Line north ofDamascus is broad gauge track, The Hijaz Railroad Stations caused many wlıile a narrow gauge track exists south ofDamascus. changes to the towns they were introduced to. Such Other political problems prevail such as the lack of changes aided the different urban centers to prosper enthusiasm of the Government of S audi Arabia to and develop due to the flux of pilgrims and .travelers, rev i ve the Line, in fact, most of the tracks south of trade relations, and the array of public works and

3 When that Station in was bui lı in 1904, Arnman w as stili a smail town and did not compare to huge urban centers such as Damascus or Beirut as it does today. THE HUAZ RAILROAD LINE ON THE DARB AL HAJJ AL SHAM! 201

Mudawarra is no tonger in place. The future of the forts, and water installations represents a significant Hejaz Railroad Line is ambiguous and is in need of portion ofthat heritage that is·worth ofmo re extensive a powerful patronage (such as the one of Sultan study and research in an attempt to revive and Abdul Hani id Il) to revive it and reinsert it again as resurrect such an integral Muslim Project not only a vital and functioning part of the Islamic World. in Jordan but in the rest of Bilad al Sham and the Meanwhile, there has been several, extremely Hijaz as well. humble, attempts to resurrect the Line at least in 1 The Ottoman history ofJordan has been subject critiques, novels, research papers, and architectural to several superficial endeavors attempting to & heritage conservation endeavors (e.g., Rami disregard i ts significance for the fom1ation of the Daher's Master Thesis to rehabilitate and adapt the Modem State ofJordan mainly because ofideological Hijaz Railroad Line Station in Arnman of 1991, differences between such a contested past and the William Ochsenwald's extensive research on the dogma of contemporary Arab Nationalism. This is . history and pQlitics of the Hijaz Railroad Line, and most unfortunate, since the contribution of the Andrew Petersen's research on the Hajj Forts in Ottoman era, present in its public works and Jordan). infrastructure; archltectural heritage, administrative S. Conclusions and institutional legacy, is of ultima te importance for Joedanian and Muslims at large. lt represents a Regardless of current realities of the Hejaz missing link, a pivot point that links our distant past Railroad Line and the fragmentation of the different with our contemporary reality. The Ottoman legacy states it used to pass by, the project can be considered in Jordan, as well as in the rest of the Muslim World, a true testimony to the Empire's ability to construct, is worth a second reading, a re-evaluation, and a finance, and operate a modem and technological value-free assessroent set away from any enterprise. preconceived Euro-centric represeotations ofhistory 11ıe intenıal history ofthe Hijaz Raifroad can be used or abanal dogroa of nationalism. asa WQ)I ofmeasuring three major issues: the Ottonıan Abanal critique ofthe Ottoman periods accuses Empire's ability lo construct and finance a modern the Ottomans of inflicting minimal change on the enterprise; the efficiency with whiclı the empire could opera te such a railroad once built; and the independence socio-economic, technological, educational, and of the Empire from Europe in person ne/, finance, and political aspects of life in the Middle East. Historians, material. The achievement of success in these areas heritage conservationists, and architects should start (capacity, efficiency. and independence) was seen by Sultan to seriously construct a thorough examination of the Abdul Hamid and his successors not as an end in itself development of the Hajj enterprise, the evolution of but ratherasa means ofachieving political, military, and the caravan routes, the intensive public works, and economic goals in the area ofSouth Syria and the Hijaz. the various building activities that flourished in the (Ochsenwald, 1980, 117). various cities in Bilad al Sham and the Hijaz alongside The Ottoman architectural heritage in Jordan is the Darb al Hajj al Sbami. Only then, one can really very diverse, it includes not only vemacular villages, sense a milieu that supports constructive change and houses, and palaces; but it extends to water a genuine publie responsibility undertaken by the infrastructure, forts, hospitals, schools, strain stations, State during Ottoman periods. bridges, and many several public works that testifies The cultural heritage ofa particular region should to the Ottoman public responsibility towards an be seen as a source "of inspiration for future evolving region, that is Jordan. The Joedanian generations and as a mean for resisting globalization Ottoman architectural heritage shapes and formulated and commodification of the built and social the urban and. rural face of Jordan during a period environments. Proper heritage conservation has so crucial to the forrnation of Joedanian identity. been seen, by many sociologists, antlıropologists, The Hejaz Railroad Line with its Stations, pilgrimage 202 RAM! FAROUK DAHER 1 and geographers; as a counter-force to cycles of ARKOUN, M. ,"The· Meaning of Cultural capital accumulation expressed in nnany new Conservation in Muslim Societies. In Architectural developments. Frampton, an architectural histarian and Urban Conservation in the lslamic World, and theoretician, offers an argurnent for heritage Imamurldin A & K. Longeteig. ed., Dhaka, conservation and continuity ofregional architectural Bangladesh, The Aga Khan Trust for Culture, 1989, forms and characters. He believes that soc.iety should pp. 25-34. depend on particular characters in any region to ARKOUN, M., "Islam, Urbanism, and Human, resist popular commodification of the built Existence Today." In Architecture and Community environment and social life. The region becomes Building in the lslamic World Today, I 983, Holod, the place of resistance against Iate capitalism and R. Ed, pp.38-39. flexible accumulation. Regional form becomes the instrument for that resistance when not only the BAKHIT, M. A. ,The Ottoman Province ofDanıasczıs Sixteentlı Beirut, Library ofLebanon, architectural form, setting, and structures are in the Century, conserved, but also the technologies and the know­ 1982. how as well. Developing a critica! understanding BARBIR, Kari.,"The Background: An Introduction." of the Ottoman heritage in Jordan should form the Imperial Legacy: The Ottonıan lmprint on the first step in its conservation and continuity for future Balkans and the Middle East,Brown, L. ed. New generations and for the well being of the Muslim York, Columbia University Press, pp. 1-16, 1996. Joedanian community. BROWN, L., "Memory, Heritage, and History: The On the regional scale, the East Mediterranean Ottomans and the Arabs." 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