C O L L E C T IO N 0 01 COMMUNIQUÉ 001 COLLECTION 001

Now is the time to rise above the whims of corporate fashion and actualise the individual. Industrial relations Faye & Erica Toogood have built a new collection — inspired by the workers, to inspire the workers. Nine new coats, practical and sculptural, crafted from hardwearing materials and engineered to withstand the changing seasons. Each garment derives from the workwear of a specific trade — an authentic vocation, not the shallow desk jobs of the digital age — marked with the signs of toil in screen-printed rubber and foil. Each piece knows no boundaries of age or gender, available in six sizes to enhance or disguise the individual frame. The materials are redolent of the values of staunch tradespeople: the waxed cotton of the oilrigger; the vulcanised rubber of the industrial labourer; the hardwearing canvas of the mariner and the artist. Unique documentation sewn inside celebrates its provenance, encouraging the wearer to forge a new link in its chain of production: the names of the buyer, the seller, the manufacturer, right back to the designer and the pattern-cutter, are all displayed with justifiable pride.

TOOGOOD

p.02 p.3 THE BEEKEEPER

Within a protective cocoon of cloth, the apiarist can coax sweetness from the wildest of swarms. A hooded garment in black waxed cotton, black or cream felt, or 7oz primed white canvas

p.4 p.05 p.7 p.8 p.09 p.11 THE ROADSWEEPER

With vigour and determination, the doughty labourer combats the incessant accumulation of filth. A longline duster in black waxed cotton, primed 7oz white canvas, black or cream lambswool, black cashmere or rubberised black canvas

p.12 p.13 p.14 p.15 p.17 p.18 p.19 THE OILRIGGER

Amid the surging waters of the North Sea, the offshoreman taps into the planet’s prehistoric essence. An enveloping shroud coat in 9oz black canvas screen-printed in black foil, rot-resistant black canvas, white canvas screen-printed with baked latex, black or cream felt, black or cream cashmere, primed 7oz white canvas or finished with rubberised “oil” splashes

p.20 p.21 p.22 p.23 p.24 p.25 p.26 p.27 p.28 p.29 THE COURIER

The lifeblood of the city – the harsh elements cannot keep the swift messengers from their despatches. A protective coat in protective leather or 7oz primed white canvas

p.30 p.31 p.32 p.33 p.34 p.35 p.36 p.37 THE CHEMIST

In the service of pure research, the chemist’s lab coat offers intellectual dignity and protection from chemical spillage. A three- quarter-length coat in 9oz black canvas screen-printed in black foil, black or cream cashmere, or white canvas screen-printed with baked latex

p.38 p.39 p.40 p.41 p.42 p.43

THE MECHANIC

With expert hands, the industrial surgeon tends to the health of our beloved machinery. A durable jacket in rubberised black canvas and heavy black leather

p.46 p.47 p.49 p.50 p.51 THE MILKMAN

In blazing heat or grim tempest, the daily deliverer is there to provide vital nourishment to our very doorsteps. A tailored coat in black waxed cotton, 9oz black canvas screen-printed in black foil, 7oz primed white canvas, rubberised black canvas, black or cream lambswool, or black cashmere

p.52 p.53 p.54 p.55 MANIFESTO

WHEREAS for too long we have witnessed the honest clothing of working people being stolen and arrogated in the name of so-called utility wear and industrial chic;

WHEREAS in an age of digital reproduction the individual is beset on all sides by the bastions of mercantilism and commerce, those false profiteers who prescribe with one hand and proscribe with the other, while forcing allcomers into constrictive sartorial templates;

WHEREAS the entrenched power bases of couture houses and multinationals mete and dole grotesque sumptuary laws to a compliant populace in the form of biannual ‘seasons’, weaving obsolescence into the very fabric of their garments;

WE HEREBY reject and reprehend the cruel diktats of the discredited fashionista treadmill: the voracious cycle in which spring/summer is devoured by autumn/winter, and autumn/winter is in turn devoured by spring/summer. Let them be rendered obsolete by the very inconstancy they thrive upon — we want it to happen! We will create only when we choose to create. Never again shall free thinkers be in thrall to the caprices of chainstore buyers or of marketing consultants!

OUR AIMS are simple, our methods straightforward. We shall sweep aside the crumbling detritus of plutocrat designers and clear the way for a new aesthetic rooted in individuality and honesty, a liberating mode that is available to all, male and female, old and young. We celebrate the craft and the toil of the workers — not faceless serfs running up disposable fads in farflung sweatshops, but named artisans with pride in their labour.

WE SHALL harness the techniques and forms of this mechanised age and return them to the people. The inherent worth of any object lies not in the pronouncements of the self-appointed arbiters of collective taste, but in provenance and the craftsmanship of manufacture.

TOOGOOD

p.56 p.57 p.58 p.59 THE BEEKEEPER

[A] white 7oz primed canvas [B] black waxed cotton [C] black felt [D] cream felt

[A] [A]

[B] [B]

p.60 p.61 THE ROADSWEEPER

[A] rubberised black canvas [B] black waxed cotton [C] white 7oz primed canvas [D] black lambswool [E] cream lambswool [F] black cashmere

[A] [A]

[B] [B]

p.62 p.63 THE OILRIGGER

[A] white 7oz primed canvas [B] white baked latex [C] black foil [D] rot-resistent canvas [E] hand-painted rubberised oil [F] black felt [G] cream felt [H] black cashmere [I] cream cashmere

[A] [B]

[C] [D] [E]

p.64 p.65 THE COURIER

[A] white 7oz primed canvas [B] black cracked cowhide

[A]

[B]

p.66 p.67 THE CHEMIST

[A] white baked latex [B] black foil [C] black cashmere [D] cream cashmere

[A] [A]

[B] [B]

p.68 p.69 THE MECHANIC

[A] black cracked cowhide [B] rubberised black canvas

[A] [A]

[A]

p.70 p.71 THE MILKMAN

[A] black foil [B] white 7oz primed canvas [C] black waxed cotton [D] rubberised black canvas [E] black lambswool [F] cream lambswool [G] black cashmere

[A] [B] [C]

[D]

p.72 p.73 WITH THANKS

The Designers A PRACTICE FOR EVERYDAY LIFE

The Writer STEPHEN PATIENCE

The Photographer MARIUS W HANSEN

The Hair & Make-up Artist ROZELLE PARRY

The Models CHRIS AND AMY AT ANTI-AGENCY

The Workers JAAP, EWA, HALLA, SOPHIE

Craftsmen and Craftswomen — All of you... THE CUTTERS THE SEAMSTRESSES THE HAND FINISHERS THE PAINTERS THE SCREEN PRINTERS THE RUBBER SPRAYER THE WAXERS THE LEATHER MERCHANT THE LEATHER WORKER

CONTACT

I N F O @ T-O-O-G-O-O-D.C O M +44 ( 0 ) 20 7226 1061

p.75 T-O-O-G-O-O-D.C O M