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6001728 FLYNN, JUDITH ZACCAGNINI DRESS OF OLDER ITALIAN-AMER1 CAN WOMEN: DOCUMENTATION OF DRESS AND THE INFLUENCE OF SOCIO—CULTURAL FACTORS. THE OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY, PH.D., 1979 COPR. 19 7 9 FLYNN, JUDITH ZACCAGNINI University M icrofilms International m o n . z e e b r o a d , a n n a r b o r , m i 4s io6 © Copyright by Judith Zaccagnini Flynn 1979 PLEASE NOTE: In all cases this material has been filmed in the best possible way from the available copy. Problems encountered with this document have been Identified here with a check mark 1. Glossy photographs ^ 2. Colored Illustrations ^ 3. Photographs with dark background ______ 4. Illustrations are poor copy ______ 5. Print shows through as there 1s text on both sides of page ________ 6. Indistinct, broken or small print on several p a g e s_________ throughout 7. Tightly bound copy with print lost 1n spine ______ 8. Computer printout pages with indistinct print _ _ 9. Page(s) lacking when material received, and not available from school or author ______ 10. Page(s) ______ seem to be missing in numbering only as text follows ______ 11. Poor carbon copy _ _ _ _ _ _ 12. Not original copy, several pages with blurred type _______ 13. Appendix pages are poor copy_ _____ 14. Original copy with light type ______ 15. Curling and wrinkled pages______ 16. O t h e r_______________________________________ ________ University Mradfiim s international 300 N. ZEEB RD.. ANN ARBOR. Ml 48106 <313) 761-4700 DRESS OF OLDER ITALIAN-AMERICAN WOMEN: DOCUMENTATION OF DRESS AND THE INFLUENCE OF SOCIO-CULTURAL FACTORS DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Judith Zaccagnini Flynn, B.S., M.S. * * * * * The Ohio State University 1979 Reading Committee: Approved By Dr. Lois E. Dickey Dr. Gisela J. Hinkle Dr. Esther Meacham Adviser Department of Textiles and Clothing Dedicated to the memory of my Grandmother, Julia il ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I had the support of many qualified people during the research and writing of this dissertation. Dr. Lois Dickey provided professional and personal guidance throughout the study. Her help was always provided with a smile and en couragement that made me try harder at each stage of my degree. Dr. Gislea Hinkle aided in my gaining an expanded awareness of sociology and its connection to clothing and textiles. Her suggestions and theoretical knowledge were most helpful. Dr. Esther Meacham provided her expertise in media and comments on the overall research direction. Her advise and encouragement were al ways welcome. Special thanks and appreciation is given to: Professionals familiar with Italian-American research, the North End or clothing and textiles who were giving of their time and knowledge including: Judith Dunning, Paula Todisco, Frank Lucibella, Father Ubaldis, and Lydio Tomasi. Retailers in Boston who aided in the development and follow through of the project. The women of the North End who were photographed and spoke of their lives and their clothing. My family who answered thousands of questions concerning their iii Italian heritage and their life experiences. Janice Miley and Mary Lou O'Connor who proof read the manuscripts and Suzanne Huck who typed the dissertation. Joan Broadcorens and Framingham State College faculty who listened when they were needed. Students in my classes and graduate students at The Ohio State University who reacted to the data as collected. Mrs. Marjory Newman for her hospitality while at school. A special thank you to David Flynn, who understood the importance of this research: his support, encouragement and understanding of the time committment of this project was always present. VITA 1947 ................... Born - Newton, Massachusetts 1969 ................... B.S. Ed., Framingham State College, Framingham, Massachusetts 1970 ................... Graduate Research Assistant, Clothing for the Handicapped Project, Kansas State Uni versity, Manhattan, Kansas 1970 - 72 ............. Instructor, Kansas State University, Man hattan, Kansas 1972 - 73 ............. Instructor, Framingham State College, Framingham, Massachusetts 1973 - 1979............ Doctoral Studies, The Ohio State University 1973 - 1974 ........... Graduate Administrative Associate, The Ohio State University 1974 - 1976 ........... Consumer and Homemaking Grant: Development of Individualized Instruction Materials; Framingham State College, Framingham, Massachusetts 1976 -.................. Assistant Professor, Framingham State College, Framingham, Massachusetts PUBLICATIONS "Meeting the Clothing Needs of Handicapped Children" Journal of Home Economics 65(May, 1973):25-27. Reprinted 1978 in Focus on Services to Young Children "Annual Conference for American Association for Textile Technology" in ACPTC Eastern Region Newsletter May, 1977. v / FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Textiles and Clothing Minor Field: Sociology Studies in Textiles and Clothing: Professors Lois E. Dickey, Esther Meacham and Mary Millican Studies in Sociology: Professors Gisela J. Hinkle, Roscoe C. Hinkle, Enrico L. Quarantelli and Kent P. Schwirian Studies in Supporting Areas: Professors Charles M. Galloway (The Ohio State University), I. Keith Tyler (The Ohio State University), Gary Hunt (The Ohio State University, currently University of California, Los Angeles), Patricia Golden (Northeastern University, Boston), Ronald Nuttal (Boston College), and Fred Pula (Boston College). vi I TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................... iii VITA .......................................................... v LIST OF TABLES .................................................. xi LIST OF PLATES ................................................. xii PROLOGUE ....................................................... 1 Chapter I. INTRODUCTION ........................................... 2 PURPOSE ........................................... 4 OBJECTIVES AND JUSTIFICATION ..................... 5 II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE................................... 8 DRESS AS A SOCIO-CULTURAL S T U D Y ................. 8 COMMUNITY AND SOCIETY AS A CHANGING SOCIAL SETTING .................................. 11 History and Definition ............ 12 Folk-Urban as Ideal Types ................... 12 Features of Gemeinschaft and Gesellschaft. 16 Physical boundaries ..................... 16 Temperament and character .............. 18 Group w i l l ................................ 18 HISTORY OF NORTH END, BOSTON ..................... 20 vii CHANGES IN NORTH END, BOSTON ................... 24 PHOTOGRAPHY FOR RESEARCH .......................... 29 III. RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODOLOGY ..................... 36 QUALITATIVE RESEARCH .............................. 36 Field Research .............................. 37 Ethnomethodology .............................. 38 Foundations by Alfred Schutz ............. 39 Events of everyday l i f e ................. 40 Ethnomethodological considerations .... 41 Photography .................................. 44 METHODOLOGY ......................... 45 Establishment of a Social Situation to Observe Dress ............................ 45 Documentation of Dress ....................... 46 Photographing subjects ................... 46 Supporting d a t a .......................... 49 Establishment of a Socio-Cultural Context . 52 Library resources ....................... 53 Photographs .............................. 53 Interviews with North End w o m e n ........ 53 Methodological Considerations in Qualita tive S t u d y .................................. 54 ANALYSIS OF D A T A .................................. 55 Documentation of Dress ....................... 56 Photographs .............................. 56 Supporting d a t a .......................... 57 viii Relationship of Dress to Socio-Cultural Contexts in the C o m m u n i t y .................. 58 IV. DRESS OF THE OLDER ITALIAN-AMERICAN WOMEN IN NORTH END, B O S T O N .................................. 60 DOCUMENTATION OF DR E S S ............................. 60 Descriptions of Dress and Women Subjects in Photographs.............................. 61 Body height and weight ................... 62 Garment silhouette ....................... 62 Design details of garments ............... 63 Accessories ..... ................... 64 Description of Dress of Women Subjects Based on Supporting D a t a ................... 70 SOCIO-CULTURAL FACTORS INFLUENCING DRESS: BASED ON A COMPARISON OF GEMEINSCHAFT AND GESELLSCHAFT.... ................................. 80 The Movement from Family Life and Kinship to Individuality .............................. 81 Photographic data reflecting family life to i n d i v i d u a l i t y ................. 81 Supporting data reflecting family life to individuality ................. 82 The Movement from Neighborhood to City .... 88 The Movement from Religion to Rational Ties. 98 V. SUMMARY, IMPLICATIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS .......... 105 SUMMARY .............................................. 105 ix IMPLICATIONS ...................................... 108 RECOMMENDATIONS .................................... Ill REFERENCES ..................................................... 114 APPENDIXES A Map of North End, B o s t o n .......................... 123 B Reaction to Slides: Summary of Comments by Evaluative Panels ................................ 125 C Retail Stores Interviewed .......................... 130 D Interview Schedules ................................ 132 Interview Schedule