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Home , Waist (clothing)

• What does SIZE mean? Measuring the body, and measuring . • Why is correct sizing important? Preparation for Fittings Organization and efficiency • How do we obtain sizes ? Actors provide or we measure in department • Who do we need sizes for ? Cast, Stunts, and costumed Background • Character Name and Number______• Actors name ______• Height ______• Weight ______• size/ Size______• / __mens: neck and preferred ______• Pants- waist inseam/ Size • • • Gloves • Notes: allergic to wool, extra long legs, etc. • There are different styles of size tags and measurement sheets. • Every show has its particular needs and personality. The template used should be approved by the supervisor. • The intention is that anyone who needs the information can find it quickly- designer, stitcher, costumers. Measurement Sheet

Name ______Height ______Character ______Weight ______Date ______Shoe ______

Shirt ______Head ______where hat will sit Pants ______Throat ______largest part of neck Suit ______Neck Base ______this section answered by actor Chest ______Dress ______Waist ______Bra ______Hips ______Allergies ______X SF ______across shoulder Front Piercings ______X Armscye F ______armpit to armpit Front Tatoos ______Nape to W F ______Center F base of neck to waist Sh to WF ______Shoulder to waist -start at side of neck, diagonal to center F waist X SB ______across shoulder Back X Armscye B ______armpit to armpit Back Nape to W B ______Center B base of neck to waist length ______Center B base of neck to below buttocks ( men) Nape to Fl B ______Center B base of neck to floor

1/2 Girth ______CF Waist to CB Waist, going through the legs Full Girth ______all the way arounfd the torso, thru the legs and over the shoulder

Sh Seam ______from base of neck at sidw to shoulder point CB to wrist ______men's shirt sleeve measurement:CB nape to shoulder, around bent elbow to wrist Sh to elbow ______shoulder point to elbow point Elbow to Wrist ______elbow point to wrist Wrist ______circumference

Armpit to Wrist ______inner arm straight Armpit to Waist ______length of side torso

Inseam to ankle______Inseam to Arch______Outseam to ankle______side waist to ankle Outseam to Fl______side waist to floor Not every actor who comes in for a fitting will be measured .

We might want a full set of measurements for • Principal or recurring characters who will be wearing many changes of clothes • Any character who will have costume pieces built for them or wear specialty items • Body types that present as hard to fit • Background being fitted with period costumes, stock or

How basic or complete the measurements taken for a specific actor are vary dependent on the needs of their costumes. Measurement sheets vary. All actors should be given respect and privacy. Any person may wish to be measured in a fitting room away from other observers. Even when measuring in a more generally open workspace, no one wants their sizes broadcasted and overheard. Practice discretion.

Most actors have been measured before, and they know what to expect. Nonetheless I try to give a preview of what body part I will measure and indicate where I will touch them next.

Asking actors to review the sizes they have already given to the supervisor, and writing it down on the current measurement sheet, gives you a moment to build rapport with the person before you start touching them.

There will certainly be new guidelines regarding this in the future re: Covid-19 Guidelines for taking measurements • Ask for the sizes that they know, plus info about allergies, tattoos, and piercings (or review if supervisor/key has already received this info) • Ask actor to empty pockets • Ask what type of a woman is wearing today. Sports , or extra padding will impact the measurement. I like to know how close to natural I am looking at, and then I can make a note if I think it will impact the sizing. • Say : I’m going to start with…” I often measure circumferences to bottom to begin : Head, neck, chest, waist, hips. You can do these quickly and then most of the other measurements do not involve you reaching around the actor. • I find the most “intimate” measurement to be the inseam. I usually save this for last, hoping that we are comfortable with one another by this time. I ask the actor to hold the top of the tape measure in the center of their thigh, very close up to the crotch. ( or another way to ask , ask that they hold the tape at the point where the top of the leg meets the torso) • Sometimes I wait until the end to ask if there are any fiber or detergent allergies. It’s kind of a good way to things up, allowing the actor to share any preferences or concerns they might have with you before you say thank you and goodbye. Tips and Tricks • Waist measurement can be tricky because people don’t always wear their waistbands at their natural waist • Waist Women : at smallest point of waist • Waist Men : Just below navel also note the measurement at the point he wears his pants if it is very different • Men and sometimes women do not always have a specific waistline that is noticeably smaller than anywhere else on the abdomen. You can ask a person to bend sideways, moving their shoulder toward the floor, and the point where the bend happens indicates the true waist. Several other body measurements refer back to the waist measurement, so if it’s going to be difficult to keep track of where exactly you decided the waistline is, you can tie any tape or ribbon or string around the body at that point and leave it as you continue to measure. • I usually ask if a person is R or L handed and measure their dominant arm. • Some designers want full body pictures of the actors, and it makes sense to take these pictures at the time of measurements. I take front, back and profile. • No one’s body is perfectly symmetrical. In most cases the variance is small enough not to affect fit. Often you do not see it at first that a person has one shoulder lower than the other, or some other shape that will affect the clothes. This is one way photos help . If you do notice that a person is uneven, or if they mention it, do measure both sides. COSTUME STOCK AND MEASURING CLOTHES

• All clothes that have been worn previously must be measured and tagged.

• We regularly need to find clothes at the last minute, and in order to be efficient all the stock must be properly sized and labeled.

• All tags that we pin to garments need be done mindfully so there is no harm to the garment PANTS: WAIST AND INSEAM

Zipper/ the pants, pull waistband taut and measure across, then double . Measure inseam from center cross crotch seam to hem. MEN’S : NECK SIZE AND SLEEVE LENGTH

Measure from neckband button to center of buttonhole. Measure from center back of the collar band, across the tip of the shoulder, and down to the edge of the cuff. AND

Button or zip the blouse and measure across 2” below the armscye, then double Dresses: measure bust as for blouses, measure waist and hips : WAIST, HIP, AND LENGTH

Close the waist of the and measure waistband. Measure the hip for slender styles about 7-9” below waistband Measure side waist down to hem for length.

Measure chest armpit to armpit, doubled. A good rule of thumb for contemporary menswear is subtract about 2” to get the chest size of suit jackets

Measure chest as for jacket ~ Stretchy pieces have ease built in. Stretch the piece across the chest to determine largest size. ALL MEASURING IS KIND OF FLUID… DIFFERENT BODIES WILL NEED DIFFERENT AMOUNTS OF EASE TO FIT CERTAIN CLOTHES DIFFERENT STYLES OF CLOTHES HAVE VARIED AMOUNTS OF EASE BODIES WITH THE SAME NUMERICAL MEASUREMENTS MAY NOT FIT THE SAME ITEMS Ease varies greatly in contemporary clothes because almost everything manufactured today , even men’s tailored , have synthetic stretch built into the textile Modern textiles make a huge difference in fit. Menswear for example , is very structured, and a jacket needs a certain amount of ease for it to lie well on the body An early 20th century jacket was made of a tightly woven wool, heavier weight than what we are seeing today It quite a bit more ease than a modern . Even if the modern jacket is all wool fibers , the modern textile is lighter more flexible, and has inherent ease