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Home , Bands (neckwear), Belt (clothing), Boot, Chaps, Clothing, Cowboy

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· WEAR . @ cooperativeExtension • College of Agriculture • Washington State University • Pullman, Washington -

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- • Native American . , Evolution of western fabrics. Dorothy A. Ettl, Extension Specialist • Proper attire for different western activities. • Diane S. Triplett, Home Economics Assistant WHAT YOU'LL DO IN THIS PROJECT WESTERN WEAR DESIGNS Special interest projects can be a new adventure in 4-H . You can use the basic construc­ Western wear is a special look worn by tion skills you already know to make western people of all ages and all lifestyles. In the past it clothing. In t his project you will learn about: was worn by cowboys, stars, and country­ western singers. People who didn't ride also • Fabrics used in w estern wear items. wore western clothing: auctioneers, livestock buyers, , announcers, veterinarians, spec­ Design details and construction techniques for tators. Today western wear has universal appeal; w estern wear. it is practical, comfortable, and attractive. Blue • Fitting considerations for western wear. , the standard western wear item, are in • How to select and care for western ac­ everyone's . cessories. Western wear pays special attention to fit, fabric, Keep a record of your plans and use the Clothing and construction. It presents a neat, , func­ Construction record, C 0675. Show others what tional appearance which can be plain or dressy as you have learned by giving a demonstration, ex­ the occasion demands. hibiting at the fair, and modeling in the fashion revue. Use this booklet to guide you as you select As you build a western wear wardrobe, follow a and make western clothing and items. plan . List the activities where you wear western clothing. Are you a participant or a spectator? • PROJECT REQUIREMENTS This will help you decide what type of western wear you will use-durable, dressy, etc. Ac­ To complete this project, you should: tivities might include:

• Be able to check off ten of the construction trail rides fairs skills and one of the fitting skills listed for work square dances Western Wear in the 4-H Clothing Construc­ parades tion Skills Checklist, C 0677 . shows other • Use these skills to make at least two items or Now list individual items of clothing and ac­ articl es of clothing that will be worn as western cessories you already have: attire or used in western activities .

• W ork wit h at least one new fabric. pants * A CTI ON IDEA. As you make your western wear, you can learn more about western vests clothing or activities by enrolling in an Explorer project. Areas you might study are: The foundation of a western wardrobe is and pant combinations with coordinating vests, • History of blue jeans (who, when, why). , or jackets. Decide what garments or • History of the (how and why items you need. You may want to try one of made). these design ideas: • Add piping to seams of jackets, shirts, or single knit pants-especially yokes. double knit and • Embroider Western or Indian motifs. fake suede-like flannel velvet • Dye or cover a to coordinate with your out­ fur velveteen fit. • • Plan and make an authentic or * ACTION IDEA. Identify characteristics of outfit. fibers and fabrics that make them suitable for Design a shape. different western wear activities.

FABRIC FACTS FITTING FACTS

Select fabrics for western wear according to use. The correct size is the first step in good Fabrics used in work clothing need to be durable, fit. Women should take both their bust and high comfortable to wear, and easy to care for. Those bust measurements. If the difference between used for riding should give protection and com­ the two is more than 2 inches, use the high bust fort in fit. Western wear for occasions measurement for the pattern size to get a smooth often uses elegant fabrics requiring more delicate fit in the , shoulder, and armholes. Then care. make pattern adjustments to enlarge the bust area. Men should select a pattern accord­ Examples of fabrics that meet particular use re­ ing to their chest measurement. Jacket designs quirements: allow room for a shirt, , or vest to be worn underneath, so don't buy a larger pattern . • Denim for pants and jackets because it is strong and durable. Knit fabric for pants because it has built-in Select a pants pattern to correspond with your stretch and can fit snugly without being un­ hip measurement. Then make whatever ad­ comfortable. justments are necessary for a good fit in crotch • depth, , and length. • Single-knit fabric for because it looks smooth even after sudden arm and body movements. The fit for western wear should follow the general fitting standards in Sewing for Fun 3 and • and cotton-polyester blend broadcloth Challenging Patterns. Try the garment on during for shirts and blouses because it is absorbent, construction and consider these points: comfortable to wear, and easy to care for. for pants or for protection and . Lengthwise grain should be perpen­ durability. dicular to the floor. Crosswise grain should be parallel to the floor. Grainline should be the same Determine what activity you will wear the gar­ for both sides of the garment. ment for and where; then select a suitable fabric. Refer to the Fabric Fact leaflets available from Line. Silhouette lines on the garment should Extension for selection information and con­ follow silhouette lines on the body. Shoulder struction techniques for specific fabrics. Fabrics seams should be on of the shoulders. Vertical used in western outfits include: seams should be perpendicular to the floor. Neckline, , and armhole seamlines broadcloth should follow the body circumference. Darts brocade leather and should point toward and stop short of the fullest canvas leather-like part of the area they shape. should be parallel to the floor. - . The garment should be neither too loose A good length for riding jackets can be found by nor too tight. It should be smooth and ­ cupping your with your arm straight down. able. Too little ease will produce wrinkles that The jacket should come to the bend in your draw and pull the fabric. Wrinkles that lie in folds hand. Jacket vents should extend to the waist­ • indicate too much ease. line. The jacket should be long enough to cover your wrist when your elbow is bent to hold Balance. The garment should appear to be the . that are lined are more apt to balanced from right to left, from top to bottom, stay in position. and from front to back. Remember that sleeve trims draw attention to Overall smoothness. The garment should be the wrists and make arms look shorter. smooth on the body and free from wrinkles. trims draw attention to the pocket area, whether at chest, waist, or hips. trims frame and accent the face. If the western clothing is to be used for riding a horse, freedom of movement and comfort are Position of the front affects the fit and especially important. To test the fit, try vigorous size of the and collar area. If the top exercises and movements like those you'll do is moved up, the lapel becomes smaller and more when riding your horse. Swing your arms narrow. This also makes the collar fit higher on around; throw them forward; touch your toes; the neck, flattering someone with a thin neck. As crouch down; straddle a chair and sit on it to the top button is lowered, the lapel and collar make sure the pants won't split when you sit on a opening becomes wider. This is more attractive horse. Also consider the following specifics: on a person with heavy facial features. Place a button at the bust or chest level and one at the Pants. The fit should be close to show you and waistline on snug-fitting garments. your riding position to the best advantage. Pants should be comfortable and allow for body move­ ment. The fit should be snug and smooth. Ex­ - SEWING BASICS cess fabric can fold and wrinkle between your seat or leg and the , causing rubbing and Review the sewing basics in Sewing for Fun 1, 2, discomfort. A snug leg fit also shows the correct and 3. For new skills, select techniques that will position of your legs while riding. Pant legs have give results that are: a slight flare from the to hem to allow for boot tops. This flare should not appear loose and • Inconspicuous-flat and smooth, free from uncontrolled. When you are riding, pants look bulk, stitching a distance from the shorter. To get the correct length for riding, the edge or fold. pants should cover t he heel and almost touch the floor as you stand . The hem is slightly shorter in • Fu nctional. front, just touching the boot. Attach an elastic Durable. to the hem to keep the pants from working up when you ride . Refer to the Extension publication PNW 197, Quality Standards in Clothing Construction, for Jacket. A jacket that covers the rider's seat in more help. back can some of the bouncing caused by a rough gait. A snug, smooth-fitting jacket shows Specific directions for western details, such as the straightness of your back while riding. Jacket flat-felled seams, , sleeve plackets, and designs with vents and in the seams allow carriers are given in western wear patterns for more shoulder, arm, and waist movement. and in most sewing books. As you become more Long, loosely fitting vests and jackets flatter the skilled, you can modify basic directions to get the • figure with large hips or stomach. designs and details you want. SELECTION AND CARE OF ACCESSORIES

Boots; , belts, gloves, jewelry, and such as and ties are used to compliment your clothing and carry out the •r, western theme.

Hats. The authentic western hat has a shape all Round Medium Square or Needlepoint its own. Hat shape, height of crown, and width Toe Round Toe Blunt Toe Toe of brim vary. Many hat styles have names.

Western Hat Shapes Straight Shallow Regular Deep Scallop Scallop Hats can be made of straw or wool-blend fibers. They can be set off with fabric, leather, or Clean and condition reg ularly with a boot to compliment the hat. Select a cream to keep the leather soft and pliable. If hat size and brim crease style to accent, not hide, boots get wet, allow them to dry slowly, away your face. from heat or direct sunlight.

Clean and brush the hat after each use. Brush Other accessories. Gloves protect hands and around the crown and brim in the direction of the allow a more secure grip on the reins. They nap. Store the hat with the crown down to keep should fit smoothly. Light-colored gloves draw - the brim from curling up in front and back. Use a attention to your hands and what you are doing dustproof covering. with them.

Boots. Select a boot that fits well. Boot toes, When riding, long flapping scarves are distract­ heels, and top designs vary. Low flat heels make ing. accessories help hold long hair in place the look wider. The underslung riding heel is to prevent a -blown look. slightly higher and gives a narrower and smaller appearance. Pants with belt loops require the use of a belt. The width of the belt and size of the should be in proportion to your body. Flat Heel If you are handling livestock at a western activity, jewelry should be small and kept to a minimum.

Walking Heel FOR MORE HELP

Your leader or County Extension Agent has infor­ Underslung mation on pattern sources and small sewing proj­ Riding ects. Dress codes and specific rules for events, Heel shows, and contests should be obtained from the boards and associations that sponsor them. • -

Issued by Washington State University Cooperative Extension, J. 0 . Young, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Cooperative Extension programs and are available to all without discrimination. Reprinted February 1982. -

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More boys and girls belong to 4-H than any other youth group.