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University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Extension Lincoln Extension

1969 EC69-460 As you Sew with Suitable Gerda Petersen

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Petersen, Gerda, "EC69-460 As you Sew with Suitable Thread" (1969). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 3933. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/3933

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. 'tii.Ju LIURE. COLLE.G ' Wuh,\'{ SUITABLE THR EAD By Gerda Petersen Extension Clothing Specialist

Thread is a small but an important item since it converts Si licone is a chemical finish that makes the thread a flat piece of fabric into a wearable garment. smooth and easier to work with.

Selection of Thread Types of Thread

Selection of thread depends on ( 1) fiber content, (2) *Mercerized is a general purpose thread suitable color and (3) weight of fabric. · for light and medium weight fabrics. 1. Threads made of a plant fiber, such as cotton, are * Heavy duty mercerized cotton is a strong smooth best suited for cotton and fabrics. thread suitable for heavy weight fabrics. thread is recommended for use in both silk * Cord is a strong cotton thread available in both and fine . Both are animal fibers and react similarly to mercerized and unmercerized form. Size 8 is the coarsest cleaning, weather conditions and dyes. Silk thread is also and is suitable for very heavy fabrics. Size 100 is for fine elastic and strong. It is fine for basting any garment that will light weight fabrics. Six-cord thread (top cord ) is made up of be pressed with an iron because it is soft and free of I int and six strands of thread twisted together. Cord thread is sold in will not leave hard to remove marks and fuzz on the fabric. black and white. Synthetic thread is best suited to fabrics made of *Cotton covered is a fine strong thread, synthetic fibers since they have comparable characteristics. particularly suited to sewing with stretch, kn its, bonded, 2. A thread that is slightly darker in color than the synthetic and permanent press. No specia l iron setting is fabric usually blends best when stitched. needed because polyester, which provides strength and 3. Heavier fabrics require heavier thread while light elasticity, is covered by a cotton sheath. Examples are Dual weight fabrics require finer thread. Thread size ranges from Duty and Polyspun. 1 to 150 and is determined by the diameter of the thread, *Elastic, in covered and cotton covered threads, is which is dependent on the size of strands. The smaller the used for , ruffling, and smocking. This is used only size number, the coarser the thread. The larger the number, on the and is generally wound on the finer the thread. Thread strength depends on the size, the bobbin by hand. twist and fin ish of the . * Metallic threads are used for decoration. *Nylon is a strong thread made for sewing synthetics, Finishes Applied to Thread blends and stretch or bonded threads. *Silk thread is suited for silk and wool fabrics. Mercerization, one of the earliest finishes applied to *Silk hole twist can be used for sewing on thread is a chemical process applied to cotton. It makes the , making by hand and decorative cotton stronger, smoother, more lu strous, more absorbent stitching on wool. and less likely to shrink. Glazing is a finish applied to cotton to obtain a hard, Needles and Stitches Per Inch smooth, polished surface which allows thread to work smoothly through several thicknesses when . The right size needle and the appropriate number of Waxing is a process which increases strength and stitches per inch are just as important as selecting the right smoothness and lessens the tendency to snag or fray. thread. Following is a chart correlating fabric, thread, needle, and stitches.

COOPERATIVE EXTEN SION SER V ICE , UN IVER SITY OF NEBRASKA CO LLEGE OF A GRICULTUR E AND HOME ECO N OMICS , AND U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRI CULTURE COOPERATING. E. F. FRO LIK, DEAN; J . L A DAMS, DI RECTOR HAND SEWING MACHINE STITCHES WEIGHT FABRICS THREADS NEEDLE NEEDLE PER INCH Chiffon, net, Mercerized, 9-10 very 16·20 voile, organdy, Nylon, Silk, fine batiste, sheer Cotton-covered crepe Polyester, Cord {Size 70) Medium Sheer wool, Mercerized, 8·9 fine 12·14 Light crepe, surah, Nylon, Cord gingham, {Size 60), Silk, taffeta, satin, Cotton-covered challis Polyester Medium Broadcloth, Mercerized, 7-8 medium 12 linen, flannel, Nylon, Silk, jersey, corduroy, Cord {Size 50), faille, chintz, Cotton-covered velveteen Polyester Medium Coatings, Heavy-duty 6 medium 10·12 Heavy suitings, terry Mercerized, coarse cloth, drapery Nylon, Silk, Cord fabric, felt (Size 50), Cotton- covered Polyester Heavy Denim, ticking, Heavy-duty 4-5 coarse 8-10 , Mercerized, sailcloth Nylon, Silk, Cord {Size 40) Very Canvas, duck Cord 1, 2, 3 very 6·8 Heavy (Size 8) coarse

AVAILABLE THREADS

THREAD THREAD COMPANY THREADS COMPANY THREADS NOTIONS AMERICAN Star Mercerized E·Z "Magic Thread" THREAD Star Cord (light and dark Beeswax Hercules (Heavy-duty I transparent nylon) Mercerized) Star Nylon LILY MILLS Mercerized Aunt Lydia's Carpet "Super Service" and Button Mercerized Star Quilting Nylon Quilting BELDING "Nymo" Nylon Six-Cord CORTI CELLI Bel-Waxed Mercerized Cotton PENN Mercerized Thread Locks Bel-Waxed Mercerized PRODUCTS Nylon (transparent Heavy-duty Cotton smoke) Deluxe Silk Lycra Elastic Sewing Silk Button Hole TALON Mercerized Twist Heavy-duty Mercerized Quilting Button and Carpet Button and Carpet Top Cord COATS Mercerized Quilting & Heavy-duty Mercerized Silk Twist CLARK Mercerized Best Cord Pure Silk {in 10 sizes) Polyspun (cotton· "Dual-Duty" (cotton· covered Fortrel covered Dacron) polyester) Silk Twist TRAUM Lastex Cotton-covered Beeswax Button and Carpet Threader Quilting Lastex Nylon·covered ORITZ Metallic Thread Thread Locks Sewing (gold, silver) Beeswax Lastex Metallic Yarn Metallic Thread

Reprinted by permission from Forecast,@1969 by Scholastic Magazines, Inc.