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Fiber Arts of the Hmong Traditionally, the fabrics used were hand­ The textile folk art, especially the needle­ loomed cotton or dyed hemp cloth, with work, of the Hmong tribes is a colorful the deep blue-black of indigo dye a and exciting addition for American ad­ favorite color. Today, fabric is usually mirers of fine stitching. As with all folk purchased. art, the impetus for this art form is linked to a culture-in this case the Hmong. This characteristic for adaptability has Costume as a part of the culture starts at enabled them to remain the Hmong or birth with the making of a baby-carrier, Hmong-"Free People" "free people. " used to hold the infant closely strapped For more than 4,000 years the Hmong to the mother's back. A rectangle approx­ have been on the move steadily south­ Another characteristic that has helped imately 16" by 23" supports baby's back ward from Northern China. them move successfully is the high value while a smaller one supports the head. they put on education. Their traditional The carrier often features a batik pattern Traditionally farmers, they converted language is totally oral, so they had no with appliques of geometric designs. woodlands to croplands and stayed until experience in either reading or writing, Several colors may be used for the the depleted soil or neighbors' attempts but they are learning written and spoken borders, as well as the sashes. Intricate to control the Hmong forced them onto English. hand stitching is often added. Bright yarn new areas of virgin forest. pom-poms may also be attached. Fiber Arts Reflect Culture Through their moves, the Hmong devel­ The nomadic lifestyle of the Hmong As in many Eastern world cultures, both oped distinctive customs as well as strong encouraged the development of crafts boys and girls wear hats until they are family and clan ties. Their belief that the that are easily produced and transported, 6 to 10 years old. These black fabric caps tribe would cease to exist if members lost such as fiber art, silver-working, and are decorated with hand stitching, beads, contact with each other encouraged the wood-carving. coins, or applique plus yarn pom-poms, growth of strong family networks where tassels, or fringes. family members tried to live as close to Like other nomadic societies, the Hmong each other as possible. have traditionally shown their wealth and social position through their clothing and Many small groups continue to live in accessories, rather than through furniture China, Thailand, Laos, and North Viet­ and household goods as do Americans nam. Many are still in refugee camps and other more settled societies. awaiting resettlement. Between 40 and One explanation for this hat-wearing 50 thousand have immigrated to the With their move to the United States, custom is the belief that hats will disguise United States since 1970. About 1,300 many of the Hmong have adapted the tbe children and fool the spirits that live in Iowa, mostly in and around western style of dress and reserve their would otherwise take the children from Des Moines, Davenport, and Ottumwa. traditional costumes for special occasions. the earth. For the Hmong, the hat disguise takes the form of a flower. In Although the Hmong are only one of Much of the responsibility for upholding America, these hats may not be worn many tribes forced to move by the these costume traditions has been given daily but are generally seen at annual Southeast Asian wars, they are both to the women charged with teaching their New Year's celebrations. culturally and politically unique. daughters the decorative stitches and designs. So important were these skills, With the exception of special occasions, "Their role as highly respected military that the wise young man sought a Hmong clothing is traditionally plain. allies has guaranteed them a special place talented seamstress for a wife since her Children's clothing mirrors their parents' among the (American) military men with work with needle and thread would be a that, although simple in design, is ele­ whom they worked. Their adaptability visible reflection on him and their family gantly styled and beautifully decorated. and personal integrity also ensures them at all important tribal functions. Black skirts or pants and shirts are a special place among their new Ameri­ common with the only decoration on can friends." (Virginia White, writing in Cooperative Extension Service shirt fronts. PA NDAU: The Needlework of the 1::& Iowa State University smTt llBRARY .OF IOWA Hmong). Ames, Iowa 50011 Historical Building DES MO INES, IOWA 50319 Differences are evident between groups, But in years of moving and adapting, Since cloth is so easily purchased now, •. however. The White Hmong favor a plain specific definitions have been lost. Many few Hmong still weave or dye their own. white finely pleated skirt for festive days, variations are evident. However, indigo-colored batiks in intricate while the Blue Hmong wear a finely patterns continue to be done. Often these pleated indigo-dyed batiked skirt with It is possible, however, to separate are used as background for applique applique and embroidery on the hem. Hmong needlework into categories by work or for baby carriers. These wrap skirts open at the front technique. These include cross-stitch, ap­ middle and are covered by an apron-type plique, reverse applique, batik, and A less frequently used form of surface panel that may be quite plain or intri­ decorative stitches. stitching is the counted satin stitch panel. cately decorated. Done in intricate repeat patterns, this Some of the most striking designs are the time-consuming craft is not practiced by All clothes were originally designed to cross-stitch items. Dark fabric sets off the all Hmong. It is most often seen on the allow easy movement over the rough bright thread combinations of reds, blues, funeral costume and may also appear on terrain of the Hmongs' mountainous purples, yellows, greens, and white. A collars, belts, and skirt edgings. homeland. Today, traditional garments 100 percent cotton even weave is pre­ are still big and roomy. This allows air to ferred for the background, but the thread Another use of decorative stitching is in circulate during hot sunny days and may be cotton, silk, or imported syn­ the pictorial representations done on · provides extra fabric to wrap close for thetic. Stitch size tends to be very small fabric panels. These contain arrange­ warmth on windy days and cool nights. and time consuming. Designs are usually ments of people, buildings, plants, and solidly worked patterns with little back­ animals. Although not truly Hmong in Sashes are an important part of the ground showing, although spot motifs are origin, the pieces are being seen more Hmong costume. They vary in width being adapted. often and are another indication of the from 10 to 30 inches and are used not adaptability and talent of Hmong only as belts, but also as decorative Applique pieces are another favorite. artisans. scarves and as totes to carry heavy loads Typically, these have a stylized, geometric from the shoulder or on the head. motif. Applique may be done by cutting Such adaptations are typical of folk art the desired shape, then folding under the and reflect changes in the lifestyle of the Intricately needleworked shoulder bags edges and stitching to a background people. It is inevitable that the textile arts and belt purses add further decoration, fabric. Or, it may be reverse applique, practiced by the Hmong in America will although they may not be functional. where the fabric is folded into fourths show more changes than those of cul­ and lines cut into the fabric to form a tures still in Asia and Southeast Asia. Special funeral garments are the final design. This is basted to a contrasting Although some may lament this breaking costume. Usually these are basic clothing color of background fabric. The cut edges of tradition, others view it as an oppor­ pieces that have been elaborately deco­ are then turned under and stitched, tunity to watch a culture expand and rated with embroidery and applique by revealing the bottom layer. adapt to social change. the family wives and mothers. Surface stitching may be added as a These traditional clothing styles and further accent to applique pieces. Com­ ISUP-83 customs may become less evident, how­ monly used stitches include the tiny ever, as the Hmong adapt to new running stitch, split stitch, chain stitch, Prepared by janeAnn Stout, extension spe­ lifestyles. This is especially true where the satin stitch, buttonhole stitch, and her­ cialist in art and design; Rae Reilly, extension textile and clothing specialist; and Hmong are encouraged to sew to meet ringbone stitch. One of the more Diane Nelson, extension communications buyers' tastes for pillows, quilts, and interesting is the very fine chain stitch. specialist, with assistance from Mary Littrell, other items oriented to the western assistant professor in textiles and clothing. market. As the Hmong spend more time Traditionally, the background fabric was a producing marketable goods, they have subdued color, such as a naturally dyed ® and justice for all less time to devote to making clothing for dark indigo, red, green, or orange. The The Iowa Cooperative Extension Service's programs and policies are consistent with themselves and other family members. influence of imported Indian and lowland pertinent federal and state laws and regulations Thai fabrics has led to a preference for on non-discrimination regarding race, color, national origin, religion , sex, age, and handicap. Interpreting Needlework bright backgrounds, such as pink and Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State Designs green. Cotton or polyester-cotton blends University of Science and Technology and the Originally, each of the Hmong designs are most often used. Printed fabrics, United States Department of Agriculture probably had some particular meaning. cooperating. Robert L. Crom, director, Ames, especially in red, yellow, green, or blue Iowa. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of are also being used more often. Congress of May 8 and June 30. 1914.