CHAIN STITCH FORMATION: STITCH CLASS - 100 Dr. Bhupinder Kaur1, Dr. Chanchal2 1,2Department of Fabric and Apparel Science, Institute of Home Economics, Delhi University (India)

ABSTRACT Stitch class 100 are formed with one or more needle threads, and are characterized by intra-looping. Intra-loping the passing of a loop of thread through another loop by the same thread. It is very economical, flexible but unravels too easily. It is mainly used for basting, button sewing and hemming operations. keywords- Stitch class, Stitch class 100

I. INTRODUCTION – STITCH CLASS 100 A stitch may be formed without material, inside the material, through material and on material. Stitch class 100 are formed with one or more needle threads, and are characterized by intra-looping. Intra-loping the passing of a loop of thread through another loop by the same thread (Fig 1). It is very economical, flexible but unravels too easily. It is used for basting button sewing, bag closing, hemming, padding operations, snap fasteners, cuff tacks etc. This stitch class may be further classified as class 101, 102, 103, 104, 105,107 and 108.

Fig 1 Intralooping Source: http://www.textileschool.com/articles/97/different-kind-of-stitches

II. FORMATION OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES OF THIS CLASS Stitch class 101 is formed using one needle thread (1), a loop of which is passed through the material from the needle side and intra-looped in the other side.

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Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Looper / Spreader Bed type Feed type stitch Threads Thread thread Blind Lopper Single thread 1 1 1 0 1 0 Cylindrical Bed Compound chain stitch feed

Stitch class 102 is formed using two-needle thread (1and 2), loops of which are passed through the material from the needle side. Thread 2 is intra-looped with thread 1 on the other side of the material.

Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Looper / Spreader Bed Feed type stitch Threads Thread thread Blind Lopper type

Single Top and Bottom thread 2 2 2 0 1 0 Flat feed chain Bed stitch

Stitch class 103 is formed using one needle thread (1), loop of which is passed into the material from the needle side, through portions of the material, emerging on the needle side where it is intra-looped at the next point of needle penetration.

Name Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Spreader Bed type Feed of stitch Threads Thread thread Looper / type Blind Lopper Single Top thread 1 1 1 0 1 0 Compound and Blind Bed Bottom stitch Feed

Stitch class 104 is formed using one needle thread (1), loop of which is passed into the material from the needle side, passed back through the material to the needle side at a distance and intra-looped on the needle side of the material at the next point of needle penetration.

Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Looper / Spreader Bed Feed type Stitch Threads Thread thread Blind type Lopper Top and Saddle 1 1 1 0 1 0 Flat Bottom Stitch Bed feed

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Stitch class 105 is formed with one needle thread (1), loop of which is passed into the material from the needle side, through portions of the material, emerging on the needle side where it is intra-looped at the next point of the needle penetration on the axis of the stitch formation.

Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Looper / Spreader Bed type Feed stitch Threads Thread thread Blind Lopper type

Chain Stitch 1 1 1 0 1 0 Cylindrical Compou Bed nd feed

Stitch class 107 is formed with one needle thread (1), loop of which is passed into the material from the needle side, and intra-looped on the other side. This stitch type is the same as 101 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.

Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Spreader Bed Feed type stitch Threads Thread thread Looper / type Blind Lopper Top and Chain 1 1 1 0 1 0 Flat Bottom Stitch Bed feed

Stitch class 108 is formed using one needle thread (1), loop of which is passed through the material from the needle side to the other side and passed back through the material to the needle side at a distance. The thread is intra-looped where the next loop is passed through the material.

Name of Needle Total Needle Bobbin Eye Spreader Bed Feed type stitch Threads Thread thread Looper / type Blind Lopper Top and Chain 1 1 1 0 1 0 Flat Bottom Stitch Bed feed

III. APPLICATIONS OF STITCH CLASS 100 - Basting stitch for tailored clothing, bag closing, and button sew, buttonhole or bar tack. - Blind stitch hemming, felling, making belt loops.

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- Stitch class 104 is used primarily for ornamental stitching often found on western wear or to stitch down a series of release pleats that may be used on pleated skirts.

REFERENCES - Carr. Harold & Latham Barbara., The Technology of clothing manufacture, Second Edition. - Rao J.V., Stitches, Northern India Textile Research Association. - www.amefird.com - http://www.textileschool.com/articles/97/different-kind-of-stitches

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