Yumi Olgeto Absolute Beginner Choin Stitch Lnslruclions

Yumi Olgeto Absolute Beginner Choin Stitch lnslruclions

Firsi Steps t. Decide if you wish io use one or lwo ihreods of embroidery cotton.

2. Threod your needle ond iie o knot of the end of the 30 cm threod.

o. How to lie o Knot n+v ffi

Make a loop with the e nd of Tuck the end of the thread your thread. down and through the loop. Pull tieht to make the knot.

b. How to lhreod o Needle

Cut the thread on an Gently nudge longest With your nails gently angle. part into top of hole. pulltip through.

3. Toke your needle ond threod under your fobric ond bring it up where you wish to stort your embroidery. How io do Simple Choin Stitch

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Secure the thread on the Take the needie from A to B, Pull the thread through until back of the fabric and bring it using the same hole in the the loop lies snugly against to the front at A. fabric at A. Loop the thread the emerging thread. under the tip of the needle.

Take the needle through the Pull the thread through as same hole in the fabric at B before. and emerge at C. Loop the thread under the tip of the needle.

Continue r./orking stitches in To finish, take the neecjie r.r Pull the threao tnrougn and the same \4";'iY. the back iust over the last secure on the back. loop. Yumi Olgeta Chain Stitch Workshop

Introduction to Chain Stitch

Chain Stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique based on looped stitches that form a chain-like pattern.

First Steps

1. Decide if you wish to use one or two threads of embroidery cotton. 2. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end of the 30 cm thread. 3. Take your needle and thread under your fabric and bring it up where you wish to start your embroidery.

Type of Chain Stitch

There are around 100 different type of chain stitch variations developed and used around the world. Here are nine to get you started. I hope that you enjoy it so much you will explore the rest!

1. Simple

At your starting point, bring up your needle from the back. Create a loop with your thread and return your needle back in through the starting point then without taking it all the way through, bring your needle up through the fabric a stitch length away. Pull your needle through the loop. Repeat for additional stitches in your row. To end your row, make a tiny anchoring stitch over your last loop, securing it in place. To turn at a corner, make an anchoring stitch in the same way then come back up again on the inside of your last loop. Start stitching in the new direction 2. Zig-Zag At your starting point bring your needle up from the back. Proceed as with Simple Chain Stitch but putting your stitches on the diagonal. It can be helpful to use an iron off pen (ie. Flexion pen for $4 at most office supply shops) to draw the diagonal lines to follow.

3. Whipped

A row of Chain Stitches can be whipped in a contrasting colour. The whipping thread does not go through the material except at the beginning and end of the row. The whipping can be on one or both sides of the chain stitch or the whole Chain can be whipped. Two close rows of Chain Stitches whipped make a beautiful border though make sure the stitches of both rows sit side by side. Lovely with Fly Stitch on either side to make a decorative border. This stitch type tends to work best with two threads of embroidery cotton or thicker thread. Try using gold or silver thread, Cotton Perle with DMC cotton and play around with colour combinations. The higher the contrast the more striking the effect!

4. Detached

The Detached Chain is a series of individual Chain Stitches, each one anchored separately with a small stitch just below the bottom of the loop. Otherwise known as the Lazy Daisy Stitch. Great for filling shapes and it looks great combined with Running Stitch. 5. Open

Work from the top down. Instead of making the chain vertically as in Simple Chain, Take the stitch diagonally. Bring the needle and thread out at A. Holding the thread down with the left thumb, insert the needle at B, to the right of A. Bring the needle and thread out diagonally at C (a little below A) at whatever width the stitch is to be. Loop the thread under the needle, and pull through, leaving it a little loose. Insert at D inside the loop, below B. Snug up thread gently around the needle. Come out diagonally at E, below C, and loop the thread under the needle. Pull through, leaving it a little loose. Insert at F, and snug up the thread. Come out at G and continue on. To end, make a small anchoring stitch at the last two corners, or one stitch in the centre.

Great for borders and fillings and well suited to lines and shapes of graduated widths. It is recommended that you draw parallel lines to work between while you are learning this stitch. It can be filled with small detached Chain Stitch, Running Stitches or French Knots. It can also be used to couch threads, ribbons or cords.

6. Double

Working from the top down bring the needle and thread up at A, on the left side of two drawn or imaginary parallel lines. Insert at B on the right line, coming out at C, the thread looped under the needle. Pull through. Holding the thread over the left, go down again at A, and come up at D, in line with A, looping the thread from right to left under the needle. Pull through. Go down at C inside the loop and come up left to right. Continue, looping alternatively from right to left and from left to right, inserting the needle inside each chain. To end, anchor with a small stitch. Texture and interest can be added by working a small Detached Chain stitch or French Knot in the middle of each chain in a blending or contrasting colour.

7. Twisted

8. Spine

A useful stitch for lines and borders with a textural look. Work from the top down as in Simple Chain Stitch but instead of reinserting the needle in the same hole, insert it slightly to the left of the previous stitch, crossing over the thread. Bring the needle and thread out at A on the line to be covered. Holding the thread down with the thumb, insert at B, to the left of A. Stant downward and come out at C, below A. Loop the thread over the needle, and then under the point of the needle from left to right. Pull through. Insert at D, to the left of the loop, coming out at E and so on. Close parallel rows can create interesting textures. They can be twisted in alternate directions or a spine added.

8. Spine

A Work from top down. Bring the needle and thread out at A. Holding the thread down, insert again at A and come out at B, looping the thread under the needle to make a plain chain. Pull through. Insert at C, coming out at B inside the chain. Make the next chain from B to D. Go in at E and out at D. Make the next chain from D to F. Try the spine on the other side from G to F and so on. This stitch can be used for textural lines. A different effect can be achieved by placing the spine close and parallel to one side of the chain.

9. Interlaced

Start with a row of wide Chain Stitches, worked somewhat loosely. When this row is completed start again at the beginning with a thread of a different shade of thickness, working from top down or left to right. Lace this thread loosely from outside in, from B to C, under the right side of the second chain, without going through the material, and with the lacing lying just outside the first chain. Then go back under the first chain from inside out, from D to E, under both the chain and the previous lacing.

Go over and behind the third chain, from F to G, from outside in, the go back to the second chain from inside out, going under both the chain and the lacing. Go over the fourth chain and continue. Start again at A and repeat on the left side. The interlacing thread should not be pulled tight put should lie against the centre chain. Make sure that the two centre stitches of the lacing lay side by side, not one on top of the other. At the end, bring the lacing thread to the back, behind the last chain. You may wish to anchor down the lacing thread at this stage. For a complete border a row or two of fine Chain Stitches can be worked on either side.