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Western Districts

Western Districts

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 102

Western Districts

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Admiring the exquisite 2 Walking on or along 4 Sipping tea and enjoy- mosaics and frescos adorn- the historic land walls ing the view ing the interior of one of (p109) that once protected at the Pierre Loti Café ’s great Byzantine from foreign (p112) in Eyüp. invaders. treasures, the Kariye Mu- 5 seum (p104; ). Spotting landmarks on 3 Visiting the Greek Or- the shore when arriving at thodox Patriarchal Church İskelesi on the of St George (p107), one of Golden Horn ferry. ’s major pilgrimage destinations.

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1 1 1R 1 1 1 1 ami ww DRAMAN k Y a d 1 1 1 1 C 1 1 1 S ıl a i d 1 1 1 1d 1 1 1 k s ır S e ım 1 1 1 1 â# F iz 1# m C ş 1 1 1 1 ww e a HIZIR a v e d Edirnekapı z V Ne 1 1 1 1 d i ş Ç ÇAVUŞ te P r S Şehitligi k D n 1 1 1 1Ca a ı ı r a 1 1 1 1 p ş a Ü# a a EDIRNEKAPI man m 3# C C 1 1 1k 1 ad a e r 1 1 1n 1 a D ir d 1 1d 1 1 E Fethiye 1 1 i 1 1 KARAGÜMRÜK p 1 1a 1 1 Cad k 0 400 m p Karagümrük e# o 0 0.2 miles T Stadium For more detail of this area, see Map p244 A 103 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Western Districts Top Tip It’s a great shame that so few visitors head to this fas- If you plan to visit , try cinating part of town. Try to dedicate at least one day to do so on Wednesdays, of your stay to exploring the area; two would be better. when the Çarşamba Pazarı Spend the first of these taking the Golden Horn (Wednesday Market) is held (Haliç) ferry trip from Eminönü, alighting at Ayvansaray in the streets around the and then following our Walk Along the Walls tour. Make Fatih . sure that you allow enough time to admire the Byzan- tine mosaics and frescos at the Kariye Museum (Chora Church). 5 Best Places to If you are able to spend a second day here, we high- Eat & Drink ly recommend that you start your day following our ¨¨Asitane (p110) Mosque & Monastery walking tour in the Bazaar Dis- Kömür Turk Mutfağı trict (p93) and then continue uphill towards the Fatih ¨¨ (p110) Mosque. Sites such as the Fethiye Museum and the Sul- tan Selim Mosque are only a short walk away. ¨¨Pierre Loti Café (p112) W Note that these districts are deathly quiet at night and For reviews, see p110 A estern on Sundays, so you’re best off exploring during the day on weekdays or Saturday.

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1 istricts Churches Local Life ¨¨Patriarchal Church of ¨¨Produce shopping Locals shop along Fevzi Paşa St George (p107)

¨¨Church of St Stephen of  ,Caddesi in Fatih, on Murat Molla Caddesi in Çarşamba along Vodina Caddesi in Balat and at the Çarşamba the Bulgars (p109) Pazarı (Wednesday Market) in Fatih. ¨¨Church of St Mary of ¨¨Gathering spots Popular local gathering spots the Mongols (p107) include the terrace of the Sultan Selim Mosque (p109) For reviews, see p107 A and the forecourts of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque (p110) and Fatih Mosque (p107). ¨¨Ferry hopping Regular commuters enjoy catching 1 Best Byzantine up with friends and neighbours over a glass of tea on Sites the Golden Horn ferry. ¨¨Kariye Museum (p104) ¨¨Fethiye Museum (p107) ¨¨Historic Land Walls Getting There & Away (p109) ¨¨Ferry The most enjoyable way to access these For reviews, see p104 A suburbs is aboard the Golden Horn ferry from Eminönü, which stops at Ayvansaray near Edirnekapı. ¨¨Bus Regular services travel from Eminönü along Mürsel Paşa Caddesi (at various points also called Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi and Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi), which follows the shore of the Golden Horn through Balat, Fener and Avansaray and on to Eyüp. From Eminönü there are also regular services to Fatih and Edirenkapı along Fevzi Paşa Caddesi (the continuation of Macar Kardeşler and Şehzadebaşı Caddesis). We have provided information about relevant bus routes in our reviews.

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