©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 112

Western Districts

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Kariye Museum (p114) 3 Patriarchal Church of ‘fatty apron’ kebap, once Admiring the mosaics and St George (p117) Visiting enjoyed by Süleyman the frescoes adorning the in- this church, one of ’s Magnificent and other terior of one of ’s major pilgrimage destina- sultans. Byzantine treasures. tions, and wandering up 5 Yavuz Sultan Selim 2 Eyüp (p119) Taking a nearby Vodina Caddesi for a (p118) Exploring ferry up the glimpse of and Balat’s the streets around this his- to visit the Eyüp Sultan neighbourhood life. toric mosque in the fascinat- Mosque and enjoy the hill- 4 Asitane (p122) Sam- ing Çarşamba district. top view from the terrace of pling dishes such as stuffed Pierre Loti Café. quince, goose kebap and

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 F 1 a 1 1 B K 1 1 1 h a a 1 1 r 1 1 h 1 1 1 1 i r K a 0 500 m 1 1 1 r a 1 1 1 o a e# C r iy 0 0.25 miles E1yüp1 a 1 u #1 ğ 1 1 1 1 d t2 e ü a SÜTLÜCE 1 1 1 Stadı rk C ç

EYÜP a C 1 1 1 d a HALICIOĞLU d 1 1 1 l u 1 1 1 B Ku n Haliç Bridge mb HASKÖY ta a l F (Haliç r u ah S e a s Köprüsü) n p h e ü a C y n a E e d C a d

A H yv AYVANSARAY an a s s ar TOPÇULAR ay k C ö a y d 1 C Old a 1 1 d 1 1 Galata lu o1 1 1 Bridge Y e 1 1 vr AVCI 1 1 N1İŞA1NC1İ 1 1 e1 1 1 1 Ç 1 1 1 1 1 1 l 1 1 1 BEY G Sakızağaçi u 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 o b l Hava Şehitligi n BALAT d 1 1 1 1 1 ta1 1 1 1 d A e s a y n 1 1 1E 1 1 İ 1 1 1 1 1 KASIM v dir C a H 1 1 1 ne1 1 1 1 1 1 r GÜNANİ n o ka a s r 1 1 1 1 1 p 1 1 1 1 1 l a n ı R k r ( am a a H 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 v y i C C a 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 a 1 1 a 1 li d S DRAMAN a ç Edirnekapı d ) 1 1 1 Ş1ehit1ligi 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1#â# HIZIR d FENER 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 a ÇAVUŞ C 4# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1ı #Ü# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 p EDİRNEKAPI 3 a F 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 k 1 et e F KARAGÜMRÜK hiy n e eC 1 1 1 1 1 1 r 1 v i a 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 z Karagümrük d i d E P k d ı a Stadium s S a p ş nu C 1 1 1 a a 5#ß# u ç k C BEYCEĞİZ ÇARŞAMBA y i 1 1 To1pka1pı 1 1 k l p a a a o d b 1 1 M1 eza1rlığı1 1 T Ta H 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 For more detail of this area see Map p252 A  Western Districts 113 - ) ) ) A A A . . 117 117 117 114 122 121 ) ) ) is held ) 122 121 118 )

120 117 For reviews, see p ) For reviews, see p Best Churches Byzantine Best Mosaics Best Cafes For reviews, see p

Kariye Museum (p MuseumFethiye (p Department Coffee Pierre Loti Café (p Aziz Cafe (p Patriarchal Church of St St of Church Patriarchal Church of St Mary of the Church of St Stephen of 122 ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ around the Mosque. (p George (p Mongols (p the Bulgars (p ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ 1 5 1 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Much of this area’s appeal neighbourhood its in lies charms. Especially around Vodina Caddesi, you can enjoy the contrasts between late-Ottoman tumbledown houses and graffiti murals, İstanbullu hipsters and conservative Islamic folk, chic cafes and locals selling fresh veg from vans on back rushing than Rather lanes. through, factor in time to walk the streets – preferably on a Wednesday, when the (Wednes Pazarı Çarşamba day Market; p - - - - 15; ₺ 20. ₺ ). 118 Locals along shop Fevzi Paşa Popular local gathering spots Vodina Caddesi has several antique ) in Fatih, Murat on Molla Caddesi in 118 The most enjoyable way to access the From Taksim to costs Fener around Regular services and 99A 99Y) (99, travel from ) and Fatih Mosque (p ) and the forecourts the of Eyüp Sultan Mosque Spend the first of these taking the Golden Horn ferry 118 118 Taxi Bus Ferry Cultural hub Gathering spots Gathering Produce shopping Produce Caddesi and at the Çarşamba Pazarı, aka Wednesday Market (p Çarşamba and along Vodina Caddesi in Balat. (p include the terrace the of Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque (p neighbourhood, the Haliç ferry Horn) (Golden from Eminönü stops at Ayvansaray near Edirnekapı and at Eyüp, with a new stop in Balat set to be added. ¨ ¨ Getting There & Away ¨ ¨ ¨ Local Life Local ¨ ploring during the day weekdays on Saturdays. or encetheeclectic, bohemian andmulticultural and Fener Balatneighbourhoods andtoseePatriarchalthe Church of St George’s ornate interior. If you are able to spend a second day here, we recommend starting in the Bazaar District and then continuing uphill towardsand Yavuz Sultan the Selim . Fatih A good day for this is Wednesday, when the weekly market takes place in the streets around Fatih Mosque. Note that these aredistricts quiet at night and on Sundays, so you’re best off ex ing to Eyüp. Either on the same day or the next, incorporatetry to a wander along Vodina Caddesi to experi It’s It’s a great shame that so few visitors head to cinatingthis partfas of town. Try to dedicate at yourof stay toleast exploring the area; one two would be better.day trip from Eminönü, first alighting at Ayvansaray to visit the Kariye Museum () and then continu Explore Districts Western Eminönü the up Golden Horn the on main road. shore Bus 55T links and Fener Balat with Taksim. En route back to Eminönü, 99Y detours to Karaköy via the Atatürk Bridge, before recrossing the Golden Horn on the Galata Bridge. Sultanahmet to Edirnekapı about shops and regular antique auctions, along with little stores selling vintage clothing, handmade shoes, ceramics and more. With artists moving into the area, galleries and studios are likely to spring in up the coming years.