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City Relaunch Explore Template V0.1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 106 Western Districts Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Admiring the exquisite 3 Visiting the Greek Or- 5 Exploring the streets mosaics and frescoes adorn- thodox Patriarchal Church around the Yavuz Sultan ing the interior of one of of St George (p112), one Selim Mosque (p111) in İstanbul’s Byzantine treas- of Turkey’s major pilgrim- the fascinating Çarşamba ures, the Kariye Museum age destinations. district. (Chora Church; p108). 4 Sampling dishes en- 2 Taking a ferry up the joyed by Süleyman the Golden Horn to visit Eyüp Magnificent and other (p113), home to İstanbul’s sultans at Asitane (p115) most important Islamic restaurant. shrine. 111 111 F 11 K 111 a B hr a a 111 h 111 i r 11 a a 111 0400 m K r or a e# C iy Jahudi 00.2 miles Eyüp111ad utür# ğ 11 2 e SÜTLÜCE a 11Mezarlığ1ı Stadı C ç k a C 11 d ad HALICIOĞLU l u B Golden Horn Ku n m a Bridge ba HASKÖY lt EYÜP r u F ah S e (Haliç a s n p h Köprüsü) e ü a C y n a E e d C a d Ay AYVANSARAY H van a sar s TOPÇULAR ay k C ö ad y 1 Old C 1 a d 11 Galata lu o 11 Bridge Y 11 re 111NİŞANC11111İ v111 AVCI 11111 111Çe 11 BEY Sakızağaçi l G 11111111u 111 o l d 11Hava Şe1111111hitlig1 i 111nb 11 BALAT d e ta A n s a y 11111E 111 111İ 111 1 KASIM v dir C a H 1111111ne1 11111 r GÜNANİ n o k a s r 111 111ap 111 1 l a n ı R k r ( 11111111 111am 11a a H i C v y a 111 111a 111 a 1 C li Edirnekapı d S DRAMAN a ç) 11111111 11111 d 111Şehi111tligi 1 1#â# HIZIR FENER 1111111 d ÇAVUŞ a # 111 1111C 4 Ü# ı 3# 1111111p EDİRNEKAPI a F 111 111k 1 et e F KARAGÜMRÜK hiy 1111111n e e C ir v z Karagümrük a d i d E P k d ı SULUKULE a Stadium s S p ş u Ca 11 a a 5#ß# n k BEYCEĞİZ ÇARŞAMBA yu ç 11Topkap1 11ı 1 C k li p a a o d b 11Mezarl11ığı 1 T Ta Ha For more detail of this area see Map p252 A 107 Lonely Planet’s Explore: Western Districts Top Tip It’s a great shame that so few visitors head to this fas- If you plan to visit Fatih, try cinating part of town. Try to dedicate at least one day to do so on Wednesdays, of your stay to exploring the area; two would be better. when the Çarşamba Pazarı Spend the first of these taking the Golden Horn ferry (Wednesday Market) is held trip from Eminönü, first alighting at Ayvansaray to visit in the streets around the the Kariye Museum (Chora Church) and then continuing Fatih Mosque. to Eyüp (p113). If you are able to spend a second day here, we highly Best Places recommend that you start your day in the Bazaar Dis- 5 trict and then continue uphill towards the Fatih and Ya- to Eat & Drink vuz Sultan Selim Mosques. ¨ Asitane (p115) Note that these districts are deathly quiet at night and ¨ Pierre Loti Café (p115) on Sundays, so you’re best off exploring during the day on weekdays or Saturday. For reviews, see p115.A WESTERN DISTRICTS WESTERN Local Life 1 Best Churches ¨Produce shopping Locals shop along Fevzi Paşa ¨ Patriarchal Church of St Caddesi in Fatih, on Murat Molla Caddesi in Çarşamba, George (p112) along Vodina Caddesi in Balat and at the Çarşamba Pazarı (Wednesday Market) in Fatih. ¨ Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars (p114) ¨Gathering spots Popular local gathering spots ¨ Church of St Mary of the include the terrace of the Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque (p111) and the forecourts of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque Mongols (p112) (p114)and Fatih Mosque (p111). For reviews, see p111.A ¨Ferry hopping Regular commuters enjoy catching up with friends and neighbours over a glass of tea on the Haliç (Golden Horn) ferry. 1 Best Byzantine Sites ¨ Kariye Museum (p108) Getting There & Away ¨ Fethiye Museum (p111) ¨Ferry The most enjoyable way to access these suburbs For reviews, see p108.A is to take the Haliç (Golden Horn) ferry from Eminönü, which stops at Ayvansaray near Edirnekapı and at Eyüp. ¨Bus Regular services travel from Eminönü along Mürsel Paşa Caddesi (at various points also called Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi and Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi), which follows the shore of the Golden Horn through Balat, Fener and Ayvansaray and on to Eyüp. From Eminönü there are also regular services to Fatih and Edirnekapı along Fevzi Paşa Caddesi (the continuation of Macar Kardeşler and Şehzadebaşı Caddesis). We have provided information about relevant bus routes in our reviews..
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