©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 106

Western Districts

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Admiring the exquisite 3 Visiting the Greek Or- 5 Exploring the streets mosaics and frescoes adorn- thodox Patriarchal Church around the Yavuz Sultan ing the interior of one of of St George (p112), one Selim (p111) in ’s Byzantine treas- of ’s major pilgrim- the fascinating Çarşamba ures, the Kariye Museum age destinations. district. (; p108). 4 Sampling dishes en- 2 Taking a ferry up the joyed by Süleyman the to visit Eyüp Magnificent and other (p113), home to İstanbul’s sultans at Asitane (p115) most important Islamic restaurant. shrine.

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Local Life 1 Best Churches ¨Produce shopping Locals shop along Fevzi Paşa ¨¨Patriarchal Church of St Caddesi in Fatih, on Murat Molla Caddesi in Çarşamba, George (p112) along Vodina Caddesi in Balat and at the Çarşamba Pazarı (Wednesday Market) in Fatih. ¨¨Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars (p114) ¨Gathering spots Popular local gathering spots ¨¨

Church of St Mary of the

 include the terrace of the Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque (p111) and the forecourts of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque Mongols (p112) (p114)and Fatih Mosque (p111). For reviews, see p111.A ¨Ferry hopping Regular commuters enjoy catching up with friends and neighbours over a glass of tea on the Haliç (Golden Horn) ferry. 1 Best Byzantine Sites ¨¨Kariye Museum (p108) Getting There & Away ¨¨Fethiye Museum (p111) ¨Ferry The most enjoyable way to access these suburbs For reviews, see p108.A is to take the Haliç (Golden Horn) ferry from Eminönü, which stops at Ayvansaray near Edirnekapı and at Eyüp. ¨Bus Regular services travel from Eminönü along Mürsel Paşa Caddesi (at various points also called Abdülezel Paşa Caddesi and Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi), which follows the shore of the Golden Horn through Balat, Fener and Ayvansaray and on to Eyüp. From Eminönü there are also regular services to Fatih and Edirnekapı along Fevzi Paşa Caddesi (the continuation of Macar Kardeşler and Şehzadebaşı Caddesis). We have provided information about relevant bus routes in our reviews.