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1 Best of Kauai

On any list of the world’s most spectacular , Kauai ranks right up there with Bora Bora, Huahine, and Rarotonga. All the elements are here: moody rain- forests, majestic cliffs, jagged peaks, emerald valleys, palm trees swaying in the breeze, daily rainbows, and some of the most spectacular golden you’ll find anywhere. Soft tropical air, sunrise bird song, essences of ginger and plume- , golden sunsets, sparkling waterfalls—you don’t just go to Kauai, you absorb it with every sense. It may get more than its fair share of tropical downpours, but that’s what makes it so lush and green—and creates an abundance of rainbows. Kauai is essentially a single large shield volcano that rises 3 miles above the sea floor. The lies 90 miles across the open ocean from Oahu, but it seems at least a half century removed in time. It’s often called “the separate kingdom” because it stood alone and resisted King Kamehameha’s efforts to unite Hawaii. In the end, a royal kidnapping was required to take the Garden Isle: After King Kamehameha died, his son, Liholiho, ascended the throne. He gained control of Kauai by luring Kauai’s king, Kaumualii, aboard the royal yacht and sailing to Oahu; once there, Kaumualii was forced to marry Kaahumanu, Kamehameha’s widow, thereby uniting the islands. A Kauai rule is that no building may exceed the height of a coconut tree— between three and four stories. As a result, the island itself, not its palatial hotels, is the attention-grabber. There’s no real nightlife here, no opulent shop- ping malls. But there is the beauty of the verdant jungle, the endless succession of spectacular beaches, the grandeur of Waimea Canyon, and the drama of the Na Pali . Even Princeville, an opulent marble-and-glass luxury hotel, does little more than frame the natural glory of Hanalei’s spectacular 4,000-foot-high Namolokama mountain range. This is the place for active visitors: There’s watersports galore; miles of trails through rainforests and along ocean cliffs for hikers, bikers, and horseback rid- ers; and golf options that range from championship links to funky local courses where chickens roam the greens and balls wind up embedded in coconut trees. But Kauai is also great for those who need to relax and heal jangled nerves. Here you’ll find miles of sandy beaches, perfect for just sitting and meditating. There are also quiet spots in the forest where you can listen to the rain dance on the leaves, as well as an endless supply of laid-back, lazy days that end with the sun sinking into the Pacific amid a blaze of glorious tropical color.

1 The Best Beaches • Kalapaki Beach: Kalapaki is the Lihue turns its back on Kalapaki; best beach not only in Lihue but there’s not even a sign pointing the also on the entire east coast. Any way through the labyrinth of traffic town would pay a fortune to have a to this graceful half moon of beach like Kalapaki, one of Kauai’s golden at the foot of the best, in its backyard. But little Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 2

2 CHAPTER 1 . BEST OF KAUAI

Club. Fifty yards wide and a quar- of the island’s most beautiful: It ter mile long, Kalapaki is pro- sits on a blue at the foot of tected by a jetty, making it very emerald cliffs, looking more like safe for swimmers. The waves are Tahiti than almost any other good for surfing when there’s a strand in the islands. This 3-mile- winter swell, and the view from long, gold-sand beach is shielded the sand—of the steepled, 2,200- from the open ocean by the foot peaks of the majestic Haupu longest, widest fringing in Ridge that shield Nawiliwili Hawaii. With shallow water 4 to 5 —is awesome. See p. 130. feet deep, it’s also the very best • Poipu Beach Park: Big, wide snorkeling spot on Kauai, even for Poipu is actually two beaches in beginners. On the northwest side, one; it’s divided by a sandbar, a in the reef runs out to called a . On the left, a the deep blue water with a 60-foot lava-rock jetty protects a sandy- drop that attracts divers. Beach- bottomed pool that’s perfect for combers love it, too: Seashells, children; on the right, the open cowries, and sometimes even rare bay attracts swimmers, snorkelers, Niihau shells can be found here. and surfers. You’ll find excellent See p. 136. swimming, small tide pools to • Hanalei Beach: Gentle waves roll explore, great reefs for snorkeling across the face of half-moon and diving, good fishing, nice Hanalei Bay, running up to the waves for surfers, and a steady wide, golden sand. Sheer volcanic wind for windsurfers. See p. 131. ridges laced by waterfalls rise to • Polihale State Park: This mini- 4,000 feet on the other side, 3 Sahara on the western end of the miles inland. Is there any beach island is Hawaii’s biggest beach: with a better location? Celebrated 17 miles long and as wide as three in song and hula and featured on football fields. This is a wonderful travel posters, this beach owes its place to get away from it all, but natural beauty to its age—it’s an don’t forget your flip-flops—the ancient sunken valley with post- midday sand is hotter than a lava erosional cliffs. Hanalei Bay flow. The golden wrap indents the coast a full mile inland around Kauai’s northwestern and runs 2 miles point to point, from the Kekaha plantation with coral reefs on either side and town, just beyond Waimea, to a patch of coral in the middle— where the ridgebacks of the Na plus a sunken ship that belonged Pali Coast begin. The state park to a king, so divers love it. Swim- includes ancient Hawaiian heiau ming is excellent year-round, espe- (temple) and burial sites, a view of cially in summer, when Hanalei the “forbidden” island of Niihau, Bay becomes a big, placid lake. and the famed Barking Sands The aquamarine water is also great Beach, where footfalls like for bodyboarding, surfing, fishing, a barking dog. (Scientists say that windsurfing, canoe paddling, the grains of sand are perforated kayaking, and boating. (There’s a with tiny echo chambers, which boat ramp on the west bank of the emit a “barking” sound when they Hanalei River.) See p. 136. rub together.) See p. 133. • Haena Beach: Backed by verdant • Anini Beach County Park: cliffs, this curvaceous North Shore Kauai’s safest beach for swimming beach has starred as paradise in and windsurfing, Anini is also one many a movie. It’s easy to see why 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 3

THE BEST BEACHES 3 Kauai

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4 CHAPTER 1 . BEST OF KAUAI

Hollywood loves Haena Beach, winter brings mighty waves for with its grainy golden sand and surfers. There are plenty of facili- translucent turquoise waters. Sum- ties on hand, including picnic mer months bring calm waters for tables, restrooms, and showers. swimming and snorkeling, while See p. 138.

2 The Best Kauai Experiences • Hitting the Beach: A beach is a Kauai Museum, the archaeologi- beach is a beach, right? Not on cal sites at Wailua River State Kauai. With 50 miles of beaches, Park, and the Ka Ulu O Laka Kauai offers ocean experiences in heiau. For more recent history, all shapes and forms. You can go to since the arrival of Captain Cook, a different beach every day during check out Grove Farm Home- your vacations and still not get stead Museum, Kilohana, and tired of seeing them. See chapter 6. Waioli Mission House Museum. • Taking the Plunge: Rent a mask, See chapter 7. fins, and snorkel, and enter a mag- • Going Deep-Sea, Big-Game ical underwater world. Facedown, Fishing: Don’t pass up the oppor- you’ll float like a leaf on a pond, tunity to try your luck in the watching brilliant fish dart here sportfishing capital of the world, and there in water clear as day; where 1,000-pound marlin are a slow-moving turtle may even taken from the seas just about stop by to check you out. Faceup, every month of the year. Not look- you’ll contemplate green-velvet ing to set a world record? Kauai’s cathedral-like cliffs under a blue charter-boat captains specialize in sky, with long-tailed tropical birds conservation and will be glad to riding the trade winds. See tag and release any fish you angle, chapter 6. letting it go so someone else can • Meeting Local Folks: If you go have the fun of fighting a big-game to Kauai and see only people like fish tomorrow. See chapter 6. the ones back home, you might • Exploring the Grand Canyon of as well not have come. Extend the Pacific: The great gaping gulch yourself—leave your hotel, go out known as Waimea Canyon is quite and meet the locals, and learn a sight. This valley, known for its about Hawaii and its people. Just reddish lava beds, reminds every- smile and say “Howzit?”—which one who sees it of the Grand means “How is it?” (“It’s good,” is Canyon. Kauai’s version is bursting the usual response—and you may with ever-changing color, just like make a new friend.) Hawaii is its namesake, but it’s smaller—only remarkably cosmopolitan; every a mile wide, 3,567 feet deep, and ethnic group in the world seems 12 miles long. A massive earth- to be represented here. There’s a quake sent streams into the single huge diversity of food, culture, river that ultimately carved this language, and customs. picturesque canyon. Today, the • Feeling History Come Alive: Waimea River—a silver thread of It is possible to walk back in history water in the gorge that’s sometimes on Kauai. You can see ancient, a trickle, often a torrent, but always ancient history, from the times there—keeps cutting the canyon when the menehune were around, deeper and wider, and nobody can at the Menehune Ditch and say what the result will be 100 mil- Menehune Fishpond. Or experi- lion years from now. See chapter 7. ence Hawaiian history at the 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 5

THE BEST ADVENTURES 5

• Watching the Hula: The Coconut illuminating the island of Niihau Marketplace, on Kuhio Highway in the distance. Queen’s Pond has (Hwy. 56) between mile markers 6 facilities for camping as well as and 7, hosts free shows every day at restrooms, showers, picnic tables, 5pm. Arrive early to get a good seat and pavilions. See chapter 6. for the hour-long performances of • Soaring Over the Na Pali Coast: both kahiko (ancient) and auwana This is the only way to see the spec- (modern) hula. The real show- tacular, surreal beauty of Kauai. stoppers are the keiki (children) Your helicopter will dip low over who perform. Don’t forget your razor-thin cliffs, flutter past camera! sparkling waterfalls, and swoop • Bidding the Sun Aloha: Polihale down into the canyons and valleys State Park hugs Kauai’s western of the fabled Na Pali Coast. The shore for some 17 miles. It’s a great only problem is that there’s too place to bring a picnic dinner, much beauty to absorb, and it all stretch out on the sand, and toast goes by in a rush. See chapter 7. the sun as it sinks into the Pacific,

3 The Best Adventures • Take a Helicopter Tour of the Wildlife Refuge (located along the Island: Don’t leave Kauai without eastern portion of Huleia Stream seeing it from a helicopter. It’s where it flows into Nawiliwili expensive but worth the splurge. Bay). It’s the last stand for Kauai’s You can take home memories of endangered birds, and the only the thrilling ride up and over the way to see it is by kayak. The Kalalau Valley on Kauai’s wild adventurous can head to the Na North Shore and into the 5,200- Pali Coast, which features majestic foot vertical temple of Mount cliffs, empty beaches, open-ocean Waialeale, the most sacred place on conditions, and monster waves. the island and the wettest spot on Or you can just paddle around earth. (In some cases, you can even Hanalei Bay. See p. 141. take home a video of your ride.) • Duck Underwater: You haven’t See p. 172. really seen Hawaii until you have • Explore the Na Pali Coast by seen the magical world underwa- Water: Unless you’re willing to ter. Beneath those blue waves is an make an arduous 22-mile hike entire universe in itself. You’ll see (p. 156), there are only two ways schools of rainbow-colored fish, to see Na Pali: by helicopter dazzling corals, graceful manta (p. 173) or by boat. Picture your- rays, lumbering turtles, and quick- self cruising the rugged Na Pali moving silvery game fish. If you coastline in a 42-foot ketch-rigged are really lucky, you may see play- yacht under full sail, watching ful dolphins or the frequent win- ter visitors to Hawaii, humpback the sunset as you enjoy a tropical whales. See chapter 6. cocktail, or speeding through the • Hike Until You Drop: Kauai is aquamarine water in a 40-foot tri- made for hiking, from the numer- maran as porpoises play off the ous trails in Waimea Canyon to bow. See p. 139. the high forests of Kokee to the • Kayak Kauai: You can take the interior trails that give the island Huleia River into Huleia National its special beauty. See chapter 6. 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . BEST OF KAUAI

4 The Best of Natural Hawaii • Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls Other great gardens are Allerton thundering downward into Garden in Poipu and Limahuli sparkling freshwater pools are outside of Hanalei. some of Hawaii’s most beautiful • National Wildlife Refuges: Kauai natural wonders. Kauai is loaded has three wildlife refuges: Kilauea with waterfalls, especially along Point, which protects seabirds; the North Shore and in the Huleia, which shelters Hawaiian Wailua area, where you’ll find 40- endemic birds and wetlands; and foot Opaekaa Falls, probably the Hanalei, which maintains a shel- best-looking drive-up waterfall on tered area for Hawaiian birds and Kauai. With scenic mountain the watershed. See p. 141 and 163. peaks in the background and a • The Grand Canyon of the restored Hawaiian village on the Pacific—Waimea Canyon: This nearby riverbank, the Opaekaa valley, known for its reddish lava Falls are what the tourist bureau beds, reminds everyone who sees folks call an eye-popping photo it of Arizona’s Grand Canyon. op. See p. 177. Kauai’s version is bursting with • Gardens: The islands are redolent ever-changing color, just like its with the sweet scent of flowers. namesake, but it’s smaller—only a For a glimpse of the full breadth mile wide, 3,567 feet deep, and 12 and beauty of Hawaii’s spectacular miles long. All this grandeur was range of tropical flora, we suggest caused by a massive earthquake spending an afternoon at a lush that sent existing streams flowing garden. Na Aina Kai Botanical into a single river, which then Gardens, on some 240 acres sprin- carved this picturesque canyon. kled with about 70 life-size (some You can stop by the road to view larger than life-size) whimsical the canyon, hike down into it, or bronze statues, lies hidden off the swoop through it by helicopter. beaten path of the North Shore. See p. 170.

5 The Best of Underwater Hawaii • Caverns: Located off the Poipu you go a bit further east to Keiki Beach resort area, this site consists (Baby) Beach, a small pocket of of a series of lava tubes intercon- sand off Hoona Road, where swim- nected by a chain of archways. A ming is generally safe. See p. 133. constant parade of fish streams by • Hanalei Beach: Divers love this (even shy lionfish are spotted lurk- area because it has an ancient ing in crevices), brightly hued sunken valley with post-erosional Hawaiian lobsters hide in the cliffs. Hanalei Bay indents the lava’s tiny holes, and turtles swim coast a full mile inland and runs 2 past. See p. 142. miles point to point, with coral • Prince Kuhio Park: This tiny reefs on either side and a patch of park, across the street from Ho’ai coral in the middle—plus a Bay, marks the birthplace of Prince sunken ship that belonged to a Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole. This king, which means excellent div- park is across the street from the ing. See p. 136. ocean, where the rocky drop-off • Oceanarium: Northwest of into the water is not very conven- Hanalei Bay you’ll find this kalei- ient for access (although snorkeling doscopic marine world in a offshore is great). We suggest that horseshoe-shaped . From the 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 7

THE BEST GOLF COURSES 7

rare (long-handed spiny lobsters) snorkeling amid clouds of tropical to the more common (taape, con- fish. See p. 138. ger eels, and nudibranches), the • Kee Beach: Where the road ends resident population is one of the on the North Shore, you’ll find a more diverse on the island. The dandy little reddish-gold-sand topography, which features pinna- beach almost too beautiful to be cles, ridges, and archways, is cov- real. It borders a reef-protected ered with cup corals, black-coral cove at the foot of fluted volcanic trees, and nooks and crannies cliffs. Swimming and snorkeling enough for a dozen dives. are safe inside the reef, where See p. 142. long-nosed butterfly fish flit about • Haena Beach Park: In summer and schools of taape (blue stripe when the water calms down, snapper) swarm over the coral. this golden sand beach becomes See p. 138. a giant aquarium, great for

6 The Best Golf Courses • Kauai Golf Courses nine-hole golf courses in the U.S. (& 800/634-6400): Choose The final eight holes were finished between two excellent Jack last year and now give golfers Nicklaus–designed courses: the something to think about. See Mokihana Course (formerly p. 158. known as the Lagoons Course), for • Poipu Bay Golf Course (& 808/ the recreational golfer, or the 742-8711): This 6,959-yard, par- Kauai Kiele Championship 72 course with a links-style layout Course, for the low handicapper. is the home of the PGA Grand The 6,942-yard, par-72 Mokihana Slam of Golf. Designed by Robert is a links-style course with a bunker Trent Jones Jr., this challenging that’s a little less severe than Kiele’s; course features undulating greens emphasis is on the short game. The and water hazards on eight of the Kiele is a mixture of tournament- holes. The par-4 16th hole has the quality challenge and high- coastline weaving along the entire traffic playability. It winds up with left side. You can take the safe one of Hawaii’s most difficult route to the right and maybe holes, a 431-yard, par-4 played make par (but more likely bogey), straightaway to an island green. or you can try to take it tight See p. 158. against the ocean and possibly • Puakea Golf Course (& 866/ make it in two. See p. 161. 773-5554): This former Grove • Kiahuna Golf Club (& 808/ Farm sugar plantation just opened 742-9595): This par-70, 6,353- up 18 holes in 2003 to rave yard Robert Trent Jones Jr.– reviews. The course was in the designed course plays around four middle of construction when large archaeological sites, ranging Hurricane Iniki slammed into from an ancient Hawaiian temple it in 1992, rearranging the greens to the remains of a Portuguese from golf-course designer Robin home and crypt built in the early Nelson’s original plan. The first 1800s. This Scottish-style course nine (actually the first 10) holes has rolling terrain, undulating finally opened in 1997 to many greens, 70 sand bunkers, and kudos; Sports Illustrated named near-constant winds. At any given Puakea one of the 10 best time, about half the players on the 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . BEST OF KAUAI

course are Kauai residents, the views in every direction. One of other half visitors. See p. 160. the top three courses in Hawaii, • Princeville Golf Club (& 808/ the 18-hole Prince provides a 826-2727): Here you’ll find 45 of round of golf few ever forget; it the best tropical holes of golf in winds along 390 acres of scenic the world, all the work of Robert tableland bisected by tropical jun- Trent Jones Jr. They range along gles, waterfalls, streams, and green bluffs below sharp moun- ravines. See chapter 6. tain peaks and offer stunning

7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort & location on one of Kauai’s best Spa (& 800/55-HYATT): This beaches. It features buildings on Art Deco beach hotel recalls both the ocean side and the Hawaii in the 1920s—before the mountain side of the road. The Crash—when gentlemen in blue horseshoe-shaped, Polynesian- blazers and ladies in summer style lobby has shell chandeliers frocks came to the islands to learn dangling from the ceiling. You to surf and play the ukulele. The have a choice of three buildings: Hyatt’s architecture and location one nestled in tropical gardens on the sunny side of Kauai make with koi-filled ponds; one facing this the island’s best hotel. The the palm-fringed, white-sand beach is a bit too rough for swim- beach (our favorite); and one ming, but the saltwater swimming looking across green grass to the pool is the biggest on the island. ocean, with great sunset views. An old-fashioned reading room by The rooms overlook either the the sea houses club chairs, bil- tropical gardens or the rolling surf. liards, and a bar well stocked with See p. 74. cognac and port. Golf, horseback • Princeville Resort Kauai riding, and the shops of Koloa, a (& 800/826-4400): This palace boutiqued plantation town, are of green marble and sparkling nearby diversions. See p. 72. chandeliers recalls Hawaii’s • Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach monarchy period of the 19th cen- Club (& 800/220-2925): This tury. It’s set in one of the most truly looks like a Hawaiian hotel remarkable locations in the world, because water is found everywhere on a between the crystal-blue throughout the resort: lagoons, waters of Hanalei Bay and waterfalls, fountains, a 5-acre cir- steepled mountains. You arrive on cular swimming pool (some the ninth floor and go down to 26,000 sq. ft., the largest on the the beach. Opulent rooms with island), and a terrific stretch of magnificent views and all the beach. The lagoons are home to activities of Princeville and six islands that serve as an exotic Hanalei make this one of Hawaii’s mini-zoo, which still lends an air finest resorts. See p. 92. of fantasy to the place and, along • Hanalei Bay Resort & Suites with the enormous pool and chil- (& 800/827-4427): This 22-acre dren’s program, makes the resort resort is just up the street from ritzy popular with families. See p. 68. Princeville Resort (see above), over- • Sheraton Kauai Resort (& 800/ looking the fabled Bali Ha’i cliffs 782-9488): This modern Shera- and Hanalei Bay. It has the same ton (since 1997) has the feeling majestic view, but for as little as of old Hawaii and a dynamite half the price. The place recaptures 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 9

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 9

the spirit of old Hawaii, especially furnishings and lanais overlooking in the three-story stucco units that the bay, the lush grounds, and the angle down the hill to the gold- distant mountains. Shuttle service sand, palm-fringed beach it shares is available for those who may have with its neighbor. Rooms are deco- problems walking on the steep hill- rated in island style, with rattan side. See p. 93.

8 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Hideaway Cove Villas (& 886/ property so incredible is not only 849-2426): Just a block from the the fabulous location (overlooking beach and next door to an excel- the stream and ocean) but also the lent restaurant are these gorgeous great eye of the interior designer. condominiums in a plantation It helps that owner Joe Sylvester setting. Amenities are top-drawer, and his wife own a furniture and and no expense was spared in the fine arts store from which to decor. Living areas are spacious, choose the “perfect” items for kitchens come with the best appli- their four units. Our favorite of ances and granite-top counters, the units, located on a quiet street and the outdoor lanais are big. away from the crowds, is the You get all of this in a lush, land- 1,100-square-foot oceanfront scaped tropical jungle at an afford- suite with a full kitchen and pri- able price. See p. 77. vate Jacuzzi, original art on the • Poipu Kapili Resort (& 800/ walls, and a zillion little touches 443-7714): This quiet, upscale that make this place seem more oceanfront cluster of condos is like a home than a vacation rental. outstanding in every area. We like See p. 77. the home-away-from-home com- • Kauai Cove (& 800/624-9945): forts and special touches: a video These immaculate cottages, and book library, a spacious pool, located just 300 feet from Koloa several barbecues, tennis courts lit Landing and next to Waikomo for night play, and an herb garden. Stream, are the perfect private get- (You’re welcome to take samples if away. Each studio has a full you’re cooking.) A golf course is kitchen, a private lanai (with bar- located nearby. See p. 75. becue grill), and a big bamboo • Garden Isle Cottages Ocean- four-poster bed. The cozy rooms front (& 800/742-6711): The feature beautiful hardwood floors, site is spectacular: a 13-foot cliff tropical decor, and cathedral ceil- overlooking historic Koloa Land- ing and an ocean (where you ings. The cottages are close can see turtles swimming). Nes- enough for walks to sandy tled in a tropical garden setting, beaches, great restaurants, and these one-bedroom apartments shopping, yet far enough off the have an island feel, with rattan beaten path that privacy and quiet furniture, batiks, and original art are assured. See p. 77. on the walls—and great views. • Waimea Plantation Cottages This is a quiet, peaceful place to (& 800/92-ASTON): This beach- stay in the heart of the Poipu area, front vacation retreat is like no within walking distance of other in the islands: Among groves beaches, golfing, tennis, shopping, of towering coco palms sit clusters and restaurants. See p. 76. of restored sugar-plantation cot- • Turtle Cove Suites (& 866/ tages, dating from the 1880s to the 294-2733): What makes this 1930s and bearing the names of 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 10

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their original plantation-worker modern, just-built, multimillion- dwellers. The lovely cottages have dollar home is located right on the been transformed into cozy, com- beach. Its unbelievable rates are fortable guest units with period $225 for the studio and $275 for rattan and wicker furniture and the one-bedroom unit (or $500 fabrics from the 1930s, sugar’s for the entire house). Everything heyday on Kauai. Each has a fur- in this two-unit home is first-class, nished lanai and a fully equipped from the marble floors to the modern kitchen and bathroom; granite kitchen countertop to the some units are oceanfront. Facili- top-of-the-line kitchen appliances ties include an oceanfront pool, to the furniture. But the real rea- tennis courts, and laundry. The son to stay here is the eye-popping seclusion of the village makes it a ocean view, just steps outside your nice place for kids to wander and door. On the 1,600-square-foot explore, away from traffic. See flat roof are a sun deck, Jacuzzi, p. 83. and wet bar. You may never want • Wailua Bayview (& 800/882- to leave. See p. 94. 9007): Located right on the • Aloha Sunrise Inn/Aloha Sunset ocean, these spacious one-bedroom Inn (& 888/828-1008): Hidden apartments offer excellent value. on the North Shore, these two The bedrooms are roomy, and the unique cottages nestle on a quiet sofa bed in the living room allows 7-acre farm. They come fully fur- you to sleep up to four. On-site nished with all the great videos facilities include a pool and barbe- you’ve been meaning to watch, cue area. Restaurants, bars, shop- and an excellent CD library. The ping, golfing, and tennis are cottages are close to activities, nearby. See p. 90. restaurants, and shopping, yet iso- • Moloa’a Beach House (& 800/ lated enough to offer the peace 262-9912): Off the beaten track, and quiet of old Hawaii. Rates are hidden in the not-so-well-known $125 to $130. See p. 94. beach community of Moloa’a, this

9 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts • Victoria Place (& 808/332- scones, or muffins. Most of her 9300): This is our favorite bed- guests are returnees. As a couple and-breakfast on Kauai. The rea- from told us, “Once you son to stay here? One name: Edee stay with Edee, every place else is Seymour. It’s easy to see why she cold and indifferent.” See p. 79. won the Kauai Chamber of Com- • Gloria’s Spouting Horn Bed & merce’s Aloha Spirit Award. Her Breakfast (& 808/742-6995): As motto is “We pamper!” She lav- one guest put it, “Staying here ishes her guests with attention and makes you want to get married aloha. Her spacious, sky-lit, again!” The price is a little high, U-shaped house wraps around the but a stay here can be the highlight garden and pool, which are sur- of your trip. All three spacious rounded by flowering walls of guest rooms are oceanfront, with bougainvillea, hibiscus, gardenia, huge private lanais overlooking the and ginger. Edee’s breakfasts are secluded beach. All of the private truly a big deal: five kinds of fruit, bathrooms feature Japanese- followed by something from the style deep soaking tubs and sepa- oven such as homemade bread, rate showers. There is an oceanside 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 11

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 11

pool, and elaborate breakfasts are living/game/writing/dining room served every morning. See p. 74. and oversize picture windows to • Marjorie’s Kauai Inn (& 800/ take in the views. Bedrooms 717-8838): This quiet property, come with private bathrooms. perched on the side of a hill, is just The house is elegant yet casual, 10 minutes from Poipu Beach and with old-style rattan furniture— 5 minutes from Old Koloa Town. practicality and comfort outweigh From its large lanai, it offers stun- design aesthetics. See p. 89. ning views over rolling pastures • Rosewood Bed & Breakfast and the Lawai Valley. The best rea- (& 808/822-5216): This lovingly son to stay here is Marjorie restored century-old plantation Ketcher herself. “Do more than home, set amid tropical flowers, one fun thing a day!” is Marjorie’s lily ponds, and waterfalls, has motto, and she makes sure that accommodations to suit everyone. her guests are out enjoying one of There’s a Laura Ashley–style room the hundreds of things she can in the main house, and two private recommend. See p. 78. cottages on the grounds. There’s • Hale Kua (& 800/440-4353): also a bunkhouse with three sepa- This is for people who love the rate small rooms with a shared beach––at a distance, and want to shower and toilet. See p. 90. sleep in the quiet and cool climate • Hale Ho’o Maha (& 800/ of the hills of Lawai Valley, away 851-0291): Kirby Guyer and her from the maddening crowds. If husband, Toby, have a spacious you want to stay in a forest, wake four-bedroom, three-bathroom up to bird song, and see incredible home on 5 acres. It’s filled with sunsets each night, this is your Hawaiian and South Pacific arti- place. The beach is just a 10- facts and features a fireplace, a minute drive down the hill. See library, and a 150-gallon saltwater p. 81. aquarium more entertaining than • Lani-keha (& 800/821-4898): TV. The rooms are uniquely deco- Step back in time to the 1940s, rated and are priced with budget when Hawaiian families lived in travelers in mind. The home is open, airy, rambling homes on close to two remarkable white- large plots of land lush with fruit sand beaches, golf courses, riding trees and sweet-smelling flowers. stables, restaurants, and markets. This gracious age is still alive and See p. 96. well in Lani-keha, a kamaaina (old-timer) home with an open

10 The Best Restaurants • Casa Blanca at Kiahuna on Kauai, including a gourmet (& 808/742-2929): Elizabeth breakfast, a creative lunch, a tapas “Liz” Foley, the same culinary menu of small items (each one so genius behind the Dali Deli and delicious you can make a meal of Café Cara, has just opened this them), and probably the best din- stylish, open-air restaurant over- ner you will eat on Kauai. See looking the manicured grounds of p. 106. the Kiahuna Swim and Tennis • The Beach House (& 808/742- Club. This casual, elegant restau- 1424): All reports are good from rant not only is physically beautiful this beachfront magnet in Lawai, but serves some of the best cuisine formerly owned by Jean-Marie 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . BEST OF KAUAI

Josselin, who sold it to smart Maui road at the edge of a cane field in restaurateurs who know a good Wailua, its backyard shaded by thing when they see it. Subscribing fruit trees, with a view of Sleeping to the if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it Giant Mountain. Gourmet fare is philosophy, the new owners left cooked to order—and at cafe the staff and operation intact. prices. The food is excellent, with Though there has been a major vegetarian and other healthful cosmetic overhaul, the food is as delights such as spanakopita, good as ever. Beach House homemade chai, Greek salad, fish remains the south shore’s premier wraps, macadamia nut–black spot for sunset drinks, appetizers, sesame ahi with wasabi cream, and and dinner—a treat for all the an excellent tofu-and-roast-veggie senses. See p. 103. wrap. See p. 116. • Dondero’s (& 808/742-1234): If • A Pacific Cafe Kauai (& 808/ you are looking for a romantic 822-0013): The first restaurant dinner either under the stars over- Jean-Marie Josselin opened in his looking the ocean or tucked away burgeoning culinary empire is still at an intimate table surrounded by the reigning fave. The signature inlaid marble floors, ornate items (tiger-eye sushi, garlic- imported floor tiles, and Francis- crisped mahimahi) are staples. can murals, this is your best bet. Foodies agree: It’s the way he uses All this atmosphere comes with Kauai produce and seafood that the best Italian cuisine on the gives this dining room the edge. island, served with efficiency. It’s See p. 114. hard to have a bad experience • Lighthouse Bistro Kilauea here. Dinners are pricey and (& 808/828-0481): Even if you’re worth every penny. See p. 104. not on your way to the legendary • Hanapepe Café (& 808/335- Kilauea Lighthouse, this bistro is 5011): Now under new manage- so good it’s worth a special trip. ment, Hanapepe maintains the The charming green-and-white same wholesome cuisine in a wooden building next to Kong casual, winning ambience that has Lung Store has open sides, old- drawn foodies for a decade. This is fashioned plantation architecture, “the place” to get going in the open-air seating, trellises, and morning with such draws as high ceilings. The food is excel- espresso, multi-grain pancakes, lent, an eclectic selection that and homemade sourdough French highlights local ingredients in toast. During lunchtime the place everything from fresh fish tacos is packed with businesspeople who and fresh fish burgers to mac nut– drive 30 minutes to eat here. On crusted ahi and four preparations the Friday-night dinner menu, the of fresh catch—much more ele- Italian specialties shine: lasagna gant than usual lunchtime fare. See p. 123. quattro formaggio with spinach, & mushrooms, and four cheeses; • La Cascata ( 808/826-9644): crepes; and other goodies. There’s The North Shore’s special-occasion no liquor license, so if you want restaurant is sumptuous—a Sicil- wine, bring your own. See p. 112. ian spree in Eden. Try to get here • Caffè Coco (& 808/822-7990): before dark, so you can enjoy the This gets our vote for the most views of Bali Hai, the persimmon- charming ambience on Kauai. colored sunset, and the waterfalls Caffè Coco is just off the main of Waialeale, all an integral part of 01 555200 Ch01.qxd 1/23/04 10:03 AM Page 13

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the feast. Click your heels on the through the concertina windows, terra-cotta floors, take in the and pretend you’re being served trompe l’oeil vines, train your eyes on a terrazzo in Sicily. See p. 121.

11 The Best Shops & Galleries • Tropical Flowers by Charles and a silk dress from the women’s (& 800/699-7984): Charles a section, and the party’s on flower genius who grows a range at “Gump’s of the Pacific.” See of tropical flowers, including p. 192. some very rare and unusual vari- • Robert Hamada’s Studio: Wood- eties. Prices are extremely reason- turner Robert Hamada makes able. See p. 188. works of art for wood purists: • Banana Patch Studio (& 808/ museum-quality bowls and large 335-5944): This place has the sculptural shapes in kou, milo, best prices on the island for any- kauila, camphor, mango, and thing artsy and cute like tropical native woods he logs himself. He plates and cups, hand-painted works in his studio at the foot of tiles, artwork, handmade soaps, the Sleeping Giant, quietly pro- pillows with tropical designs, and ducing luminous pieces with jewelry. Plus, they will pack and unique textures and grains. His ship for you anywhere. See p. 189. skill, his lathe, and his more than • Bambulei (& 808/823-8641): 60 years of experience put him in Celebrate the charm and style of a class of his own. See p. 190. 1930s to 1940s collectibles in this • Yellowfish Trading Company treasure trove at the edge of a cane (& 808/826-1227): Surprise field. Fabulous one-of-a-kind vin- yourself at Yellowfish Trading tage finds—Mandarin dresses Company, where vintage bark with hand-sewn sequins, 1940s cloth and that one-of-a-kind 1940s pake muumuus in mint condition, rattan sofa are among owner Gritt Peking lacquerware, and Bakelite Benton’s short-lived pleasures. jewelry—fill this jewel of a bou- The collectibles—1930s lamp- tique, owned by two women with shades, ’40s vases, ’50s lunch- a passion for the past. See p. 189. boxes, antique silk piano shawls— • Kong Lung (& 808/828-1822): move quickly. See p. 193. You’ll be surprised by what you • Ola’s (& 808/826-6937): Fine find inside this 1922 stone build- crafts from across the country find ing. It’s a showcase of design, style, their way to this temple of good and quality, with items from din- taste: lamps, vases, blown glass, nerware, books, jewelry, and cloth- drumsticks, jewelry, hard-to-find ing to the finest sake and tea sets on books, and the peerless paintings the island. Throw in a lacquer bowl of award-winning artist Doug or two, a pair of beaded sandals, Britt. See p. 193.