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Cape Hatteras National Seashore 05 542745 ch05.qxd 3/23/04 9:01 AM Page 105 CHAPTER 5 Cape Hatteras National Seashore Driving along Hatteras and Ocracoke islands national seashore and other nature preserves are on a narrow strip of sand with the ocean close wild and beautiful. Being here, it’s easy to on both sides, you may think that the Outer imagine what it was like when the first English Banks are a geographic miracle. Why should colonists landed more than 400 years ago, or this razor-thin rim of sand persist far out in the when the Wright brothers flew the first airplane sea? How wild it seems, a land of windy beach over a century ago. Both events are well inter- with no end, always in motion, always vulner- preted at their sites. The area is fascinating eco- able to the next, slightly larger wave. There’s so logically, too. Here, north and south meet, the much here to see and learn, and so much soli- mix of ocean currents, climate, fresh and salt tude to enjoy. You’re like a passenger on an water, and geography creating a fabulous diver- enormous ship, and unpredictable nature is the sity of bird and plant life at places like the Pea captain. Island National Wildlife Refuge (p. 124) and Oddly, many people don’t see Cape Hatteras Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve (p. 124). this way. When they think of the Outer Banks, In this sense, the area is much like Point Reyes, they think of Nags Head or Kill Devil Hills, its counterpart on the West Coast, covered in towns where tourist development has pushed chapter 21, “Point Reyes National Seashore.” right up to the edge of the sea and, in many And for children, the national seashore is a places, gotten really ugly. Most visitors to the huge sandbox. We saw more children having a national seashore come only for the weekend, great time here than anywhere else we went. and just from the nearest states, to escape the damp heat of the Southern summer. On the BEST THINGS TO DO Outer Banks, the wind almost always blows, so • Pick a place to be alone on a hot, sunny it feels cooler than inland. But people should beach, where you can find crabs and shells come from all over the United States, because and swim in warm surf. the parts of the Outer Banks protected by the • Visit Wright Brothers National Memorial, where the first flight occurred in 1903, and 105 05 542745 ch05.qxd 3/23/04 9:01 AM Page 106 OUTER BANKS ADDRESS BOOK Outer Banks National Park Service Group Headquarters. Mailing address for all area national park units: 1401 National Park Dr., Manteo, NC 27954. Cape Hatteras National Seashore. & 252/473-2111. www.nps.gov/caha. Wright Brothers National Memorial. & 252/441-7430. www.nps.gov/wrbr. Fort Raleigh National Historic site. & 252/473-5772. www.nps.gov/fora. Eastern National (for books and maps). 470 Maryland Dr., Suite 2, Ft. Washington, PA 19034. & 877/NAT-PARK. Fax 215/591-0903. www.eparks.com. North Carolina Ferry System. 113 Arendell St., Morehead City, NC 28557. & 800/BY-FERRY (eastern U.S. only) or 252/726-6446. Ocracoke & 800/345-1665 or 252/928-3841; Hatteras & 800/ 368-8949 or 252/986-2353; Cedar Island & 800/856-0343 or 252/225-3551; Swan Quarter & 800/ 773-1094 or 252/926-1111. www.ncferry.org. Outer Banks Visitors Bureau. 1 Visitors Center Circle, Manteo, NC 27954. & 877/298-4373 or 252/473-2138. www.outerbanks.org. Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce. P.O. Box 1757, Kill Devil Hills, NC 27948. & 252/441- 8144. www.outerbankschamber.com. Ocracoke Civic and Business Association. P.O. Box 456, Ocracoke, NC 27960. & 252/928- 6711. www.ocracokevillage.com. Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, where • Hike a wetlands trail and look for interest- the first English colony in the New World ing birds. was built and disappeared in the 1580s. • Go fishing, sailing, or sea kayaking, or wade • Climb one of the nation’s highest light- into shallow sound waters to catch crabs. houses, visit the aquarium, and climb aboard a 16th-century ship replica. See “Activities” (p. 127). HISTORY: ISLANDS IN TIME As you drive south along the Outer Banks beachfront along the highway remains pretty from Nags Head, heading down Hatteras much wild. Island and crossing to Ocracoke on a ferry, you History set these patterns. Over hundreds might feel as if you’re driving backward in his- of years, people decided which places to fill or tory toward a more isolated, more natural leave open based on the jobs they had, the time. The drive starts where the seasonal shop- roads and bridges they built, and what they ping centers and rows of beachfront houses in wanted to save for the future. the Nags Head area crowd the ocean. Farther After Sir Walter Raleigh’s Lost Colony dis- south, the highway enters the national appeared in the 1580s (see chapter 2, “Moving seashore, with its miles of wild, windy dunes Water, Moving Land”), several generations and empty sand where breakers roll in, mostly passed without Europeans on the Outer Banks. unnoticed, day and night. On Ocracoke Island The islands were too remote and sandy for the quiet town of Ocracoke sits among the most people. Just getting there was difficult. trees in the wider part of the island, while the On the stormy outer shore, surf constantly beat 106 Cape Hatteras National Seashore 05 542745 ch05.qxd 3/23/04 9:01 AM Page 107 IRGINIA 168 Ferry VIRGINIA 17 1 Kitty Hawk Lake Gaston EElizabethlizabeth MMurfreesborourfreesboro CCityity Kill Devil 258 158 Hills 13 R 85 95 oa no Sound ke arle Nags Head 1 R bem iv Al e Rocky r 64 MManteoanteo Mount DurhamDurham Plymouth 12 64 301 Williamston HATTERAS ChapelChapel 45 ISLAND High HillHill 264 Point Raleigh WashingtonWashington Swan CAPE HATTERAS Quarter NATIONAL Greenville Pamlico 117 Sound SEASHORE 40 FERRY Salisbury Hatteras Village 17 70 OOcracokecracoke Dunn CEDARCEDAR OCRACOKE ISLAND Kannapolis ISLANDISLAND NNewew BBernern Southern Raleigh Pines 95 C Bay a 40 pe BeaufortBeaufort F ea CAPE LOOKOUT Fayetteville r MMoreheadorehead Rockingham R CCityity NATIONAL SEASHORE iv Cape e r Lookout 17 ATLANTIC OCEAN 74 74 76 Wrightsville Beach Wilmington Mullins 17 SSOUTHOUTH Carolina Beach CAROLINACAROLINA 0 25 mi 17 Myrtle Beach 0 25 km Manning the beaches, making this a dangerous place to plain piracy—and if you got caught, the pun- sail and an impossible place to land a ship. On ishment was death. In 1718, in a battle near the calm, sound-side shore, the water was too Ocracoke, the British navy killed the most shallow for all but small boats, and only ex- notorious pirate, Blackbeard, and the age of perienced sea pilots could find the way through piracy ended (see “Read Aloud: Blackbeard’s channels that constantly shifted in the sand. Ghost,” p. 116). His treasure was never found. These conditions were perfect, however, for The village of Ocracoke became a home for one group of residents: people who didn’t want pilots who knew the shipping channels well anyone to find them. The Outer Banks became enough to safely guide vessels through Ocra- a hideout for pirates and other fugitives. coke Inlet and across Pamlico Sound to larger During wars, European kings and queens towns on the North Carolina mainland. Just as would allow private ship captains to attack any pilots still do in many parts of the world, an vessel from an enemy nation and keep what- Ocracoke pilot would take a small boat out to ever they could take. This was called priva- meet a ship, steer the ship through the chan- teering. But when the War of the Spanish nels, and then travel home in the small boat. Succession ended in 1713, many of the priva- As the town was settled and built by pilots and teers kept right on attacking and robbing other their families, others settled there, too. People ships. With no war for an excuse, this was just lived by piloting, fishing, carrying cargo in History: Islands in Time 107 05 542745 ch05.qxd 3/23/04 9:01 AM Page 108 ToTo ElizabethElizabeth CityCity Southern Shores 0 5 mi & NorfolkNorfolk Kitty Hawk 0 5 km Point Harbor 168 Kill Devil Hills A Campground l b e 1 m a r l S Swim Beach e 2 S o u n DDareare d R Nags Head CCountyounty o 3 EastEast a RRegionalegional n Creek LakeLake o tor AirportAirport 4 k ga e lli A R ManteoManteo Whalebone Junction o AlligatorAlligator a n 5 Information Station o 64 k 6 e 264 ToTo Manns Harbor S o RaleighRaleigh C 345 u B r o 64 I n o s d Coquina Beach r l d i a a e e t n Bathhouse d I v a s l i n a n R d S S WancheseWanchese Bodie Island o Visitor Center ALLIGATORALLIGATOR RIVERRIVER u n 7 Oregon Inlet NATIONALNATIONAL WILDLIFEWILDLIFE d r MarinaMarina o REFUGEREFUGE t a Oregon Inlet g P i e l 264 12 a l I s A l a n Refuge Visitor Center d N Nature trail a t i o n a StumpyStumpy PointPoint l W i l d l i E f e R R e f u O g e H Fishing Pier S 8 A s Pamlico l Rodanthe a E o Sound 9 h Waves S Lake S le Mattamuskeet b Salvo im W Richmond Bodie Island LighthouseEngelhard 7 Area of Detail d n VA a Cape Hatteras Campground 9 l N L To s CapeSwan QuarterHatteras Lighthouse 10 I A Raleigh s A a Cape Woods Campground 11 N r e E Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station 8 O t NC t I a C Elizabethan Gardens 4 H T ATLANTIC Fort Raleigh National Historic Site 4 A O SC OCEAN 12 Frisco Woods Campground 12 N Avon Jockey’s Ridge State Park 3 Fishing Pier Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve 2 The North Carolina Aquarium— S Roanoke Island 6 A R Ocracoke Lighthouse 14 E Buxton T Hatteras Island Ocracoke Pony Corral 13 Billy Mitchell Visitor Center T Airstrip 11 A 12 Roanoke Island Festival Park 5 H Frisco S 10 Teeter’s Campground 14 Hatteras Frisco Cape Point Cape Hatteras Wright Brothers National Memorial 1 D ia d Bathhouse Fishing m lan H on E Is att S Pier d P ke era S To Swan Quarter o s I ho A rac nlet a Ocracoke Island C Oc ls Visitor Center 12 C 13 Ocracoke I To Cedar OcracokeOcracoke OcracokeOcracoke T Island S N CAPECAPE 14 A USS Monitor LOOKOUTLOOKOUT Ocracoke Airstrip L A T National Marine NATIONALNATIONAL O Sanctuary cra SEASHORESEASHORE coke Inlet 108 Cape Hatteras National Seashore 05 542745 ch05.qxd 3/23/04 9:01 AM Page 109 boats, grazing cattle and sheep on the beach and passengers from shipwrecks.
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