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NOTES ON THE 1821 PAlTERN MUSICIAN'S COATEE

Figure 1-Front View of the Cooiee Figure 2Cide View of the Coatee

The 1821 pattern U. S. Infantry musician's coatee The coatee is of scarlet of a coarse in the collections of the Ohio Historical Society was texture and is in an excellent state of preservation. It discussed by Member Stephen Osman in a recent issue has evidently seen usage: the armholes are stained from of MC&H (XXXII, No. 2, 78-81). Although the cov- erage in that article was thorough, a more detailed perspiration and a portion of the back seam near the examination of the cut and construction of this impor- neck has been patched where worn through by a small tant piece of American military material culture is in square of the same scarlet broadcloth. The collar and order. breast are lined with the same material as the body For the most part, the coatee conforms closely to of the coatee; sleeves and are lined with white the printed regulations of 1821.1 The use of narrow , now almost dirty yellow in shade. Small half- width tape in edging the collar was one exception; moon-shaped reinforcements of scarlet cloth are lo- another was in the width of the collar, which is only 3% inches in the specimen, as opposed to the 4 inches cated beneath the armholes. The remainder of the expressed in the regulations. coatee is unlined. Figure 4-Detail of the cafl. Note the regulation white metal button with the letter '1" within the shield of the eagle. The cuff is left open or "slit" for 145 inches along the back seam. Figure 3-Rear View of the Coatee

All edges and seams visible on the exterior of the body are turned, with the exception of the shoulder straps and wings, which are left unfittIshed or "raw." The seams inside the coatee are also raw. The lining is turned and whipstitched to the broadcloth. All other visible stitching appears to be of the "in and out stab" style. The pocket flaps are not functional and are sewn down. The true pockets are located in the lining of the skirts. They are of the horizontal "welted" style and measure 6% inches across. The side pleats of the skirts are sewn down at both the and bottom. They were almost certainly ornamental, as the lining covers and obscures them. In addition, the shanks of the top and bottom pleat buttons pierce through and join the front and rear edges of the pleats together permanently. AU but three of the original buttons are still sewn Figure 5-The Lining of the Coatee Skirts. The shanks to the coatee; two of the missing buttons were once of the top and bottom pleat buttons me visible. Figure 6-Interior of the Coatee Body. Note the reinforcements at the armholes, the repair patch near the collar, and the Schuykill Arsenal marks on the sleeve lining.

Figure 7-Pattern Sketch of the Coatee by H. Charles McBarron. located on the top buttonholes of the wllar and the sleeve" and to be "not more than three inches long" third at the termination of the right skirt pleat. at the bottom holes.2 The wings (including the shoulder straps) are The author wishes to express his appreciation to Company Fellow H. C. McBarron for his pattern sketch constructed from two layers of scarlet broadcloth. The of the coatee. actual wing is built up with some sort of padding James L. Kochan between the two layers of cloth. Along its edge a cres- cent-shaped strip of white worsted is whipstitched 1.-General Regulations for the Army; or. Military Institutes. down. Philadelphia, 1821, pp. 154162. The coatee is trimmed with !4 inch worsted tape. Figure I-Front View of the Cootee. All of the tape is white and of a ribbed pattern. The Figure 2--Side View of the Coatee. tape is doubled at the "blind" or false buttonholes Figure 3-Rear View of the Coatee. Figure 4-Detail of the cuff.Note the regulatton white metal located on collar, breast, pocket flaps and cuffs; ends infantry button with the letter "I' within the shleld of the of the holes are "squared." The buttonholes on the eagle. The cuff is left open or ''slit" for V% inches along collar are 5 inches long. Those on the breast are slightly the back seam. herring-bone in form, ranging from 5% inches at the Figure 51nterior of the Coatee Body. Note the erinjotco- and top holes to 3% inches in length at the bottom holes. ments at the armholes, the repair patch near the collar, the Schuykill Arsenal markings on the sleeve lining. This is in minor variation from those prescribed for Figure 6-The Lining of the Coatee Skirts. The shanks of the officers in the printed regulations, which stated that the top and bottom pleat buttons are visible. holes at the top were to extend "to the seam of the Figure 7-Pattern Sketch of the Coatee by H. Charles McBarron

NOTES ON OHIO VOLUNTEER , 1861

At the outbreak of the Civil War, Ohio intended It was decided instead to clothe the Ohio infantry to clothe her volunteer troops in uniforms patterned regiments in simpler uniforms consisting of blue "so near that of the regular army, that no change would and sky blue . Blue fatigue be required on going into the U. S. service." How- with either amj covers (Havelocks) or ever, it was designed that some distinction be preserv- glazed covers and black were the standard ed and it was recommended that the state of arms . were to be of red or grey flannel. Ar- be stamped on the buttons and plates of the uni- tillery and cavalry were issued dark blue cloth shell forms being made. The waste in equipping the rapidly- with the usual branch of service distinctions growing number of recruits did not fit this plan and and dark blue reenforced trousers. Hats were to be the instead all uniforms were to be made with "U. S. headgear of the mounted troops and their Regulation" buttons, according to branch of service.1 were of sky blue kersey.8 Until 1862 when the Federal government took Although Ohio was able to furnish her first regi- over the job of supplying uniforms for Ohio's troops, ments of cavalry and light artillery with the pdbed the state arranged to clothe her forces by contracts uniforms for mountd troops, a temporary shortage in with private firms, both within and outside the state. supply of blue flannel and sky blue kersey led the state All uniforms were to be "thoroughly well made and to adopt stopgap measures in order to supply her in- trimmed and in all respects to conform to Regula- fantry regiments in the field. Overcoats were made of tions." Ohio had gone so far as to contract for and black and grey cloth in addition to sky Hue . purchase 8000 regulation infantry frock , complete Trousers were of sky blue, grey striped, and grey cloth. with brass shoulder scales, before a lack of sufficient quantities of blue cloth and a rising demand for supply Finally over 5000 infantry shell jackets of cadet grey prevented any such further extravagant plans of cloth were made and issued to regiments in need of supply.2 uniform CI*~.~